How To Install Fixed Portlights

[@jkutyna]

I cannot say how thankful I am to find videos like this. Showing how to PROPERLY install or repair stuff on my new-to-me boat. Find out the architectural windows on the port side are coming away and I need to rebed them, and all I can find are videos from people using screws or window frames of some sort to put their large deadlights back in. Sorry but that's not on my boat. This right here helps because when I saw that there are no screws or anything short of the adhesive holding those windows on, I was flumoxed at the boat yard.

[@okcpicker]

Andy, the VHB tape suggestion is excellent. My windows will go on a flat surface without the recess which will make it a little easier, but I'll probably have to use Dow Corning 795 silicone instead. I will still have to drill oversize holes in the lexan for the screws. I have a 40 year background in TV and video, and your how- to videos are great. You are a very good host! I'll check in to your premium per month options - it's worth it for your great advice!

[@gustavocoimbradosreis4089]

Hi Mark. I'm resealing my windows soon. Mine don't have the recess either. How did you do it? Only the tape? If you did apply the silicone, where/how did you put it? Regards!!

[@thewestmountgroup4257]

Great presentation! 3 M actually makes a primer for acrylic to be used prior to the installation of certain acrylics. Check with the maker of your port lights to see if it is recommended. This applies to both new and old materials. Thanks for the information, now I am ready to replace the port lites on my Columbia 9.6

[@calmoncommandk9781]

Which 3M VHB tape did you use? I’m looking for it and seeing several different kinds.

[@yachticus]

Andy - great effort - and I think your product choices are excellent - one thing we do is on the face that the tape is applied - we blacken (read paint) the lip it has the effect of hiding the lip when looking through the portlight - love your stuff

[@boatworkstoday]

+Ian KELLY Great tip! Have to remember that ;-) Thanks!

[@kfraserfwb]

I just wanted to say that I appreciate your videos. I bought a project boat a little over a year ago, and your website and videos have saved me from making many mistakes (of course I still make many others!). I'm replacing some windows now and this video is stopped me from using silicon sealant as I didn't know about the VHB tape. Thanks!

[@kristenbayr4442]

Great video, thank you. I notice that those VHB tapes come in different thicknesses. What thickness would you recommend for the boat side polycarbonate windows? Cheers

[@GotItMade]

I'm pretty sure that I will never install a port light but somehow you drew me in. :-) In the process I picked up a an idea where that super duty tape might come in handy. You have really upped your game on the video production, Andy. Very nice and polished.

[@boatworkstoday]

***** thanks Freddy ;-). Much appreciated and means a lot!

[@timlamacchia7070]

Great video. I have large curved windows that need to be put in place under some pressure to bend slightly to guilt for in the openings. The 3m vhb tape is great but I could definitely use thicker material. It's there a product that is thicker?

[@BoatWindowFrames]

Very detailed video with good information on frameless portlight installation. Nice job! It's all in the prep.

[@jakofozz]

Hi Andy, wondering if you would apply the VHB tape to a window that does not sit inside a recessed area. If so how would you get a seal? Many thanks!

[@cathyshields9500]

Very good (down to earth) presentation of a building process which can be difficult for a skilled technician. Your shared expertise is appreciated.

[@j121212100]

Great call on that 3M VHB tape. And oh boy does it hold. No second chances with it. Good call on the dow corning 795. Super long working time. Full cure time is 7 to 14 days.

[@christianchardoul2597]

To remove the liner or backing from VHB tape use the tip of a new utility knife. The sharp tip held at a steep angle will pierce the liner and allow you to lift the corner without damaging the tape. We convert adhesive tapes on an industrial scale and this is a trick we learn early on for lifting liners.

[@WindyDazeSunnyDaze]

I am doing a similar project changing the large fixed port and starboard windows on my 1984 Hunter 31. The difference is my window will not be recessed like these portlights on this newer version sailboat. I will be using the VHB tape 1" wide black tape # 5952 and the Dow corning # 795 Silicone Sealant per your video. Thanks for showing how to do it.

[@mlangfordoutdoor]

Thats a nice looking boat, yes sir that is good info as I am about to put in a window like that on the top of a tear drop camper I just built and was considering using the butly tape. But now I know how to do it, you saved me from a hoard of trolls on my channel telling me I'm doing it wrong. Thank you liked and subed

[@DebbieTimberlake]

I have 2008 Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi catamaran, will this process work on a deadlight on the hull of the boat. New to boating and boat repairs so I want to make sure this process would work. Thanks in advance!

[@luiscaraballo3802]

Andy, an Okinawan guy showed me that if you dip your "working finger" in mild dishwashing water bowl, the process of running your finger around the silicone (9:15) is flawless, well, almost...

[@mogliilgom5055]

Agreed. even plain water helps but dishwashing detergent is better.

[@NobodyLikesTheTunaHere]

Andy: Still relevant. Up in Canada and sourcing Dowsil. I am doing a similar install on my sailboat with 3/8 polycarb MR10. I am going to do the same thing as shown here, except we have external frames that will be caulked in place afterward. Would you so this at the same time as the caulking bead used for the glass, or let the glass bead set then do a separate bead for the frames? Cheers to you and the family

[@P61guy61]

Getting ready to replace the pots on my Catalina 27. Just the video I needed. Thank you.

[@cheapcigs9772]

Will these withstand boarding waves without being bolted in?

[@gustavocoimbradosreis4089]

Hellp Andy. Thanks for the video :) very detailed and helpful as always. I have a question. In case you don't have a grove as a bed, and you are applying the plexiglass against a plain cabin top, would you still use the silicone? I ask this beacause I don't have any gap to fill. Thank you for your attention. Best regards

[@yanndesdevises1546]

This might be late in the day but you need to offset the tape from the edge of the plexiglass so you can create a groove in which to shoot the silicon.

[@stephanrancourt8015]

I have to fix my front windshield on my hunter 430. The windshield may have 10 feet by 3. Should I use the same technique and use the VHB Tape and the 795 silicone or you suggest another technique

[@aquaholic3]

Andy, another great and helpful video. What would use to clean the surface before applying the VHB tape? Acetone?

[@wolfb2455]

What is the thickness of the VHB tape you are using? Your videos are extremely helpful. Thank you very much

[@filipkryspin8726]

Andy, Would you use the same technic for windows fited on rounded surfrace?

[@OkieBobby]

Your boat repair videos are the best!

[@aquaholic3]

Andy what thiness do you use for the polycarbonate plexiglass window? I got to replace my two cabin top ones, which get walked on. So needs to be strong. They are about 12" x 20"

[@trulyamazingsailing7056]

I was wondering if you have ever worked on the large windows on a Leopard catamaran? I have a window (2016 leopard 40 footer) very large in the front of my saloon. it has separated at the bottom of the frame. Wondering if you have worked on these before?

[@sailingsilverwind]

amazing work, i need to do this to my Dufour 31! This helped gaining knowledge

[@jjovic4457]

What is the thickness of the VHB tape you are using/3M Product Number? Your video is extremely helpful!

[@MaverickSailing]

Great video, that is process that I've read about, the biggest difference on my boat is I am taking out the aluminum framed port lights and will install the Lexan on top with the beveled edge out.

[@Drivewaysailor]

Andy, in the shop where I work, (aircraft) we use a sealant generically referred to as 'Pro-seal'. It has different varieties tank plate sealing, through fuselage sealing and one for edge sealing windows. Can get it in 1/2 and 2 hour working times. It cleans up with alcohol and is self leveling. If you'd like the specs on it let me know.

[@boatworkstoday]

***** Sounds interesting!

[@pwnerpinistic]

Thank you for this informative video! Gonna go install my windows now with MUCH more knowledge!

[@passmeby9398]

Missed your efforts. Love the work. You are quite a craftsman. Keep 'em coming!

[@formosa41]

Another great video! I do have one complaint though...You don't make videos often enough! I've been waiting forever. It's not like you have anything better to do, than entertain and educate me personally. Lol Hopefully I will be doing this same job, this year.

[@MrMedicAdnan]

Would you suggest doubling the tape up to raise the port light up an additional 1-2mm????

[@adamhakim9446]

Hi, Great video's. On a 37' 1971 egg harbor wood boat, I need to redo the large front windows. Would you recomend the tape on this application as well? I am planing on using the same window, just remove clean and reseal. It looks like someone used a penitrating eppoxie to fix part of the wood window seam from inside the boat because of the leak. Thanks.

[@agvgv9263]

I am in the process of replacing my windows. Is this 3M VHB tape resistant to UV rays?? I just would not want to have an unfortunate experience with my windows in the middle of the Atlantic.

[@markallan2626]

I want to remove my leaky windows on my C&C 30-1 and reseal them (leaking!!) there are screw holes in the windows. Should I also put the screws back or is that another source for leaking??

[@barendbrink5103]

Excellent video. I needed to see how the outside caulking is done, especially I was wondering if you cut a piece of the paper covering away before caulking. I see you don't, so that answered my question. Again, great video.. Thank you!

[@erikbardy1739]

qustion for you. What width VHB tape did you use? Can I use 1/2" or 1/4" and still get the job done?

[@rumreach3950]

Enjoy all your videos! Thank you. Don't you think VHB tape has low tensile strength to be use in offshore boat? Per spec it's about 80-100 lbs..

[@agusus]

That's the strength *per square inch* though. The 3M spec sheet I have says 620 kPA tensile strength for VHB #5962 (what I used). That corresponds to about 91 psi (pounds per sqr inch). I used 3/4" width tape, in a length of about 120" around the window, so by my calculations that gives about 8,000 lbs of overall tensile strength. Of course, point loading should be considered. But a wave impact from the outside is actually pushing the window onto the VHB, not away. And there are really no conceivable impacts from the inside of the window near 8k lbs. The main concern is improper application (unclean surface or bad VHB tape - some non-approved 3M resellers are doing tape rerolling). Assuming proper application, the next risk to windows is hull flexing forces gradually weakening / cracking them over time. Since VHB is a foam core it should provide natural give and take to the window, certainly better than thru-bolting which puts point stresses on the acrylic.

[@ylemoine1]

Hi Andy, my portlights are 4’ and 6’ in length and 12” tall butted end to end with a 3/4” gap between them. They are originally surface bed with a 3/8” bead of caulking/bedding compound, this screws around the perimeter about every 18”. They are 1/2” polycarbonate smoked windows. The caulking between the pains has split and cracked from expansion and contraction (the boat is wintered in Toronto, Canada where winters get down to 0F and summers up to 95F. The boat is only 5 years old and the windows have leaked from year 2, now the the point of needing to be rebedded. My question, would you recommend using the VBH tape and Dow silicone caulking around the edges or rebed as originally using only a 3/8” thickness of Dow caulking between deck and polycarbonate window with spacers and the original screws to hold the windows in place while the caulking cures? I read on Sikaflex’s website that they recommend using their 295UV sealant with a generous 3/8” think bedding with spacers to permanently seal a window in place. Your thoughts and observations please. Great videos...very very well done and informative.

[@agvgv9263]

Very late. But if it happened to you again you may want to consider cutting your portlights in half. Also to be in the middle of the possible thermal contraction/expansion you would want to do this job at around 45-50F. You may also consider some canvas cover to spare 80% of the UV rays. Aluminium frames are great as their thermal expansion is higher than GRP but lower than acrylic. They also protect from UV yet are not always used nowadays for economic reasons

[@kz4506]

A small tip I have found doing this is mask up as you did , in the corners I mask across the corners in stead of trying to fold the tape , the I find a disk of something the size of the circumference I want , lay it over the two tapes and cut the circular shape in the tape , the pull off the excess , looks neater when filled , also never use the finger to trim the cow c , I make a small trowel and dip it In turpentine and smoothen the seal then pull the tape straight away , good vids thanks

[@drminas695]

Thanks great video, but how do you remove damaged fixed portlight?

[@noelbrockman1891]

Great video, I really appreciate the detail as I am about to start the complete rebuild of my rudder that split like a banana last week on my C&C 27 V. A replacement rudder would cost me about $6K Canadian, so I plan to rebuild using your exact technique with confidence. My only question is the compatibility with VC17 over the Pettite barrier coat? Again, excellent video!

[@diokaef]

Can you instal same way if it’s installed flat on cabin? Like if not counter sunk?

[@NarrowPathFarm707]

Good, detailed video. Nicely done.

[@lucianosantucci108]

Nice work - re ensuring reveal stays even - you can use temporary spacers to ensure reveal is even when placing window.

[@wilsnich02]

Hi, I have heard of this 3M tape so it was great to see..... on my boat I have larger windows that require part of the back of the window or cabin side to be painted black. Is there a paint I should use ??

[@boatworkstoday]

+wilsnich02 I think I would be inclined to use a dark tint film rather than a paint :-) I suspect it would be pretty difficult for the paint to get a good bond on the glass.. Hope this helps!

[@bjad179]

Curious, how hard would take a deadlight and recess it? Boat is an 80s Ericson. I love the Hinckley deadlight look.

[@neilspooner8790]

Top tip for removing the second side of the double sided tape, VERY lightly cut a diagonal line through the non sticky in the middle of the tape run, then use a sharp blade to lift the cover tape. Working from the end often ends up with you lifting the double sided tape, working in the middle the double sided tape won't lift.

[@ozkanayazoglu2432]

That is Greaaattt.. I wanted do it for a long time but i hadn't have any idea how to do it. Thx again mateee....

[@JamesAlberding]

thank you for this video! this has made up my mind about a few things I wasn't sure about. Question, would you take the same approach if you were mounting to the exterior of the deck with no recesses? I'm thinking one long piece of acrylic to cover 4 portlights, with a 2" overlap. then with tape centered, fill in the gap on the exterior, as well as the interior to the edge of the hole for the portlight. I'd like to avoid using screws or bolts in the Plexiglass.

[@boatworkstoday]

+James Alberding Hi James! Yes, this method will work with / without a recess :-) This tape can be bought in various widths (up to 2") so that might be the way to go. It's pretty thin so I wouldn't count on being able to squeeze caulking behind the glass to fill any kind of gap left by the tape. I'd run the tape all the way around the perimeter of the poly and then run a bead of 795 around the perimeter of the portlight and strike it off with your finger making a cove profile. Pull the tape and call it done ;-) Looks very sharp!! No bolts or screws needed..

[@JamesAlberding]

+BoatworksToday great idea! now I cannot wait to order the glass!

[@JamesAlberding]

+BoatworksToday Hello Andy! There will be alot of surface area between the portlight holes, and past the forward hole where I will taper it off to follow the contour of the deck as it goes forward. I’d like your opinion on two things. 1. What do you think the minimum width of VHB tape that would be effective around the perimeter of the openings for the portlights 2. Do you agree that I should cover the entire surface of the glass where it will contact the fiberglass once installed to ensure long lasting bond? might look better too? or should I just do the perimeter of the sheet if acrylic, and around the porthole cut outs?

[@boatworkstoday]

+James Alberding Are you able to send me a couple pics? [e-mail] Thank you!

[@ivogago6140]

I have old windows with rubber, any ideas for install proper poplycarbonate without the rubber ? I removed the rubber and overlaped the new poly and fixed with bolts and nuts, but the end result was not good. Maybe an idea for a video ? Thank you.

[@user-if8hk9qo7g]

Try using an RTV silicone it has a little more open time. Wetting your finger with water makes it easier to shape without tearing the silicon, you can also use denatured alcohol to clean it while it's still wet. This type of silicon also has adhesive characteristics, and handle temperatures I believe up to 450 degrees. There are a variety of translucent colors available.

[@LeighMerchant-sv8zt]

Why did you not abrade and/or prime both surfaces to be bonded?

[@ericloar305]

My boat loves you.

[@angelbqb5358]

GRACIAS fácil y bien explicado

[@Mr_Navil_Campo]

This video saved me a LOT of figuring out!! Thanks

[@rich3203]

Take a piece of tape and wrap it around your finger and back onto itself, then just press it onto the liner and lift. It also works well removing the backing off of window tint

[@IandiBoats]

Beautiful work! I've always wanted to see that done. Question: would you do the same method for fixed port lites in the hull? I've noticed newer sailboats have port lites in the hull made of polycarbonate, some, positioned not too far off of the waterline.

[@noneofyourconcern4566]

iandi Boats Yeah even 3 years later, I wanna second that info request :)

[@justtheotherdave]

Why overalls instead of coveralls? Serious question. Down here (south of Sheol) I wear coveralls and nothing else. :-O Maybe I should try overalls and work on my farmer's tan.

[@fernandakamei3140]

what vhb number did you use?

[@jlipcovich]

Quick question.....which 3m VHB tape are you using? Is there a particular part # you're using? I'm getting ready to replace my fixed port lights soon and want to get my parts list together. Thanks! Joe

[@boatworkstoday]

+Joe Lipcovich The writeup on my website should help ;-) boatworkstoday.com/archives/1735

[@davidb4010]

Didnt read all the comments, but if not mentioned, water and dishwashing soap mix on your finger you can better smooth the silicone out and it will not stick to your fingers 🙂

[@kevinhyde3895]

Have done many, many thousands of metres of silicone seal in my job as a kitchen and bathroom fitter in the last thirty years so trust me when I say never use a dry finger. Always soak your digit for at least a minute so it does not drag and gives you more working time. Also use your thumb to give yourself a larger shallower radius. Kevin.

[@j121212100]

will scotch extremely strong mounting tape work? all i could find at home depot. Not taking a chance on that. I rather wait for mail order.

[@cawfeedawg]

no VHB primer?

[@timlong8987]

G'day mate. i have a trick i use with wiping your finger over silicone. i get a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the silicone when its down just before i do the finger wipe. this gives a better finish and wipes off the finger much cleaner

[@robertbosman5398]

What is the way to do this when you want fixed portlight in the hull, from the insite out or the way you did it now. You see it on the more expensive boats and ther deeper then the hull.

[@martyhandley4456]

Man I love this channel.....so informative

[@drdistorzion]

If you were to install a window on the hull side instead, how would you mount it? (I guess it would require a stronger mount if closer to the water line?)

[@boatworkstoday]

+Olle Sköld Anything that would be near the waterline I'd like to see it mounted with screws or even bolts through a metal frame :-) I'm paranoid that way!

[@SailingCeledon]

Thanks for the video Andy, Wurth makes an alcoxy silicone which is called A9 base silicone which also gives you more time to work with. It's normally used for aluminium frame windows and seems to be doing a good job on boats. As for the VHB tape if you can't source it (my case) you can scratch the 1cm of glass that needs to bond with the deck and scratch the deck as well. I do that with a very sharp knife, doing like a grid pattern. It takes more work because you need to tape the inside of the glass to get a clean result.

[@cindyrookus7195]

I am curious as to how you will be able to remove the portlights installed with VHB? In my experience polycarbonate and acrylic only last about 10 years (sometimes less in then tropics). Eventually they will need to be replaced.

[@mlangfordoutdoor]

I have never kept a boat past 10 years and buy them new, besides if you really need those windows off get an old guitar string or some piano wire and pull it between the window and surface mounted to

[@yanndesdevises1546]

How do you stop getting an upward « lip » on the edge of the silicon when you remove the tape? It keeps happening whenever I tape around and lift it at the end...

[@markthomasson5077]

Perhaps as the 795 takes a while to set, and he removes the masking before it does?

[@kensenzig5116]

Andy, what's the latest on the Rhodes?

[@mazdarx7887]

Have built aquariums, some very large , >1000 gal.. 2a alcohol (Ethyl Alcohol) is the solvent used in the making of silicone and is the best for cleaning . With the exception of extremely large aquariums, the only thing holding the glass together is the silicone

[@Stubones999]

Use an ice cube to smooth silicone caulk. It melts a little and leaves a smooth and slippery surface.

[@Fabian_AS]

Good idea is to wet your finger with soapy water. Works equally well.

[@AnthonyPaun]

great video, i did mine last week a little different on a 1977 catalina 30

[@Rlindagem]

Very good quality video. Well done.

[@coffeefish]

Those ports look great.

[@lyfandeth]

VHB tape is the structural mount and seal on glass skyscrapers. Like the Sears Tower. Much stronger than boaties need to worry about. 3M say that dental floss can cut under it and lift it, if you presoak with a citrus solvent and pray hard. But conventional generic silicones never form a permanent bond to plexi or polycarbonate, last time I checked the spec sheets. That's a special one you use?

[@brucegarrison4999]

Thank you

[@TaylanYalniz]

just what i was looking for! thank you..

[@jimpetriko1435]

Great job... Keep the video's coming. Cheers.

[@SebastianBjurbom]

How is it to remove the glass for refitting when it's put in with WHB?

[@Ingeanous]

Wow, that is a pretty boat!

[@danielbarnes8694]

Just a tip for you mate, I don't know how no one has told you yet but wet your finger when smoothing down the silicone, it won't stick to your finger and will be really smooth also, or just get a spray and use an old cut off hose and use that to smooth it out when it's been wet down with spray and it will end your night mare lol, when done like this it's a dream to work with silicone is water proof, that's why when you wet it and use a finger or tool to smooth it it don't end up all over the place try it you will be shocked 😌😌😌

[@mangore623]

Silicone is poisonous, don't you know.

[@Stubones999]

Use an ice cube and it will smooth the line down easily without sticking.

[@bobthealmightybread]

awesome video thanks !

[@mangore623]

Christ, that Ranger is gorgeous.

[@regressmenot]

Give Geocel a try as a substitute for silicone.

[@buynsell365]

VERY NICE JOB !!!

[@rickpickford]

Sweet! nice job

[@WeAreQuestionDutch]

Okey, this was handy. Didn't wanted rubber again and aluminium frames are quite expensive. But i can make this work i think.

[@filipkryspin8726]

Andy, I'm about to reinstall my portlights and I was looking for hints, so good timing :) Your method is very clean and quite easy to do, I gues. I also talked with my local boatbuilders asking for advice and they told me to use sikaflex. Its marine grage poliuretene based gue/sealant. As far as I know for this type of application most people use sikaflex and a tube is about 10$. www.sika.com/en/marine-redirect/marine-market/marine/leisure-boats-yachts/01a006sa02300.html

[@boatworkstoday]

Filip Kryspin I guess everyone has their preference, personally sikaflex is not mine :-/. If you look around online you can find Dow Corning for about the same price and it's a better product IMO..

[@filipkryspin8726]

BoatworksToday Andy, many products you use are unavailable in my location (Poland). Dow Corning I've seen on youtube but not in our stors :). Sika is so popular because its polish product :D. As for VHB I think its great way to do it. There is just one drawback one roll of vhb tape is 33m long and its not cheap. Now I'm looking for a shop where vhb is in use, maybe they will sell me a few meters. :)

[@SaltyDougSailing]

I do the same trick with tape when painting rooms. :-)

[@gatecrasher1970]

no good doing black round edges

[@jasond869]

I wouldn't use paper towel on those windows if they are polycarbonate or perspex even.