Nicely Done Sir!!! My Dad and Grandad built their own race boats back in the 50’s. 12’ outboard hydroplanes. Dad was pretty successful at racing here on the Oregon Coast. My Dad built or first family boat in the garage in Portland Oregon when he worked at the local dairy. Alpenrose Dairy. I was like 3-4 years old so 1973-1974. My Dad is 87 now. His childhood wasn’t the best and he doesn’t talk about building boats with his Dad. So I watch your videos and learn through you what it was like. The process. Thank You!!!!

I rolled and tipped my Awlgrip and it turned out flawless!! I love this paint. It dries hard and shiny and lasts a very long time. My waterline has always been Awlgrip and after 40 years I had it sanded off and repainted it just vecause!

I have a 40 year old(May 8, 1982 is her build date) Ericson sailboat and Andy I'm so astounded that I don't have all these cracks and crazes in my gelcoat. I have severe oxidation even though I wax frequently. But I am thankful that this production boat was laid up correctly. I take care of her and I'm going to paint her this year. I was going to re gelcoat her but you have convinced me that paint is the way to go. I did a 7 layer barrier coating to her bottom last Spring, AWLGRIP on the water line and top stripes, all the bright work has been restored and the hull and topsides are the last to do. After 40 years, she has certainly deserved a makeover. Thank you for all the years of education. I love doing all my own work. I love doing glass work. I have torn out the cabin sole and will be replacing that also this year. Im confident I can do the topsides non skid thanks to your videos. By tge way, Awlgrip is so beautiful to work with. I was told it would be a real challenge and lots of men told me to not even try to use it. But I found it fun to work with. It flows so nicely ❤❤

knytex (biaxial+CSM combo) IS Epoxy rated/ non-styrene, powder binding for its CSM, I cant say for sure any other CSM in the States that is epoxy rated

I love all your videos and often share links with others asking questions. One point regarding mixing West System. I used to believe by volume was the only acceptable way but their data sheet shows a weight ratio of 5:1 is in the middle of their acceptable range. Been doing that successfully for a while. Thanks again for all the great info and technique.

I added an armstrong single bracket to my 1975 Mako doing a refit 10 years ago. I caulked the living out of it to ensure no water. I got water, that is why there is a drain on the bottom of the bracket. Yes, it does bring the transom down some, but never to the point of sinking. Many sleepless nights thinking of a solution I ended up putting about 200 ping pong balls in the compartment and 2 small beach balls to fill the void. After 6 to 8 months in the water, I pull the boat out for hurricane season and only get maybe a soda bottle of water drained out. The advantage of the beach balls is I can deflate them and clean the void if I like.

What kind of epoxy did you use here?

As one of your viewers, I never really thought about how you get the shots. I'm sure you have a good collection of tripods. Nice setup. Makes more sense.

What are you going to use to seal the bolts and the holes?

Andy that’s why you are the best boat guy. Right way/ the only way. Good job!

Could you have drilled 2 outer holes or even 3 with a centre then run a line and mark it with a pencil then measure where the holes need to be then pull out the protractor

So what. You have to remove the whole transom pod. ?????

I'd be training my kids in the art of videography.

Thats a nice rig!

The bottom paint probably uses a copper compound for the antifouling. If the bracket is aluminum and if as you say the joint will eventually leak, the copper in the anitfouling will corrode the aluminum bracket where it's against the paint.

I completely feel your pain on this one. After all the medical stuff and the itch to get back to work, you probably thought this would be an "easy job" to start on. And of course, it's not but a can of worms. It's written all over your face, lol There's doing it right and doing it right enough. Right enough isn't your cup of tea. I look forward to seeing you do this without interrupting your healing.

Invest in an angle drill, then go part way through with a bit cut down to 2" then finish the hole with the 4 1/2" bit

To not worry, you could leave an inspection hatch on the platform and have an automatic bilge pump in there. However, I think the platform is ugly and removing it would make the boat better, like it was originally designed. Putting heavy outboards way aft is a bad idea. Having an inboard and a stern drive takes space inside, but this is a style icon, not a house boat.

What ever you do, go easy on the shoulders, you’re still on the mend. Stay safe, good luck.

this is why i trust you. brutally honest analysis of the transom situation. i would say just fill it with foam but the fact that you havent thrown that out there means its either a stupid idea or it wouldnt work.... probably both.

I made a template out of Masonite. I only marked 2 holes; far starboard and far portside. Then dry mounted the bracket with 2 bolts. Then Marked the remaining 18 holes using the bracket as a template. Then removed the bracket, drilled the holes, and then installed the bracket with 4000 not 5200. Installing with two bolts at first, made it easy to check for levelness and centered, etc.. And drilling the holes without the bracket in the way ensured that the bolts would fit perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the transom. I also heard stories of a guy trying to remove a twin bracket that had been mounted with 5200. They lifted the 18,000 pound boat off the ground before it finally broke the seal and the bracket broke free. So I was told 4000 would be plenty. Anyway, there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Glad you are getting this project going. 🤙

How about a right angle drill

I was never happy with Armstrong brackets ended up designing my own and got it made for my boat. Did this all and saved time since there lead time is so long

Windex is the best cleaner to prep for painting / sealing/ stainless steel and it's great on varnish wood work 😊

It wouldn’t be a boat if simple things didn’t take 5 times longer than initially planned. I agree that the bracket coming off is the right thing to do. Make a template off the bracket and drill your holes. I’m sure there will be a few more hiccups along the way. Drilling transoms is never easy given angles and such. Keep up the good work!!

Right angle drill to predrill your holes? Then when you take it off finish your holes off?

Where are you located? I would love to bring my boat by. I comepletely rebuilt my transom - with coosa and 1708, and it is as strong as a tank. I am about to rehang the old (single engine) bracket - From Stainless - I set this aside due to my own repair issues (not unlike you) and also I wanted to recalculate the height for the 300 Yam. This is on an 89 Concept Marine (not to be confused with Concept) a sturdy center consolve fishing boat. I've been figuring each step out on my own, and this has been a lot of trial and errort - it took me 6 tries to spray the paint (due to outdoor temp fluctuations). Would be great to get your advice.

Just spray paint over the holes in the swim step with a contrasting color. Let it dry, and take off of swim step. Then you can drill them properly. Also note that almost all of the load is on the upper bolts, so the lower bolts are mostly to keep it sealed. In that case, the bolts being at about 30 degrees isn't very much of a problem, so just fabricate some slanted washers for inside and outside. Tightening the lower bolts angled will slightly increase the vertical load on the upper bolts, however it should be well within the stress limits of the all of the hardware.

Hmmmm . . . In this day of digital angle finders, there's a lot of flailing here. Use the DAF on the projecting leg of a square on the target fac2 and zero the DAF. On the other face to drill from, use zeroed DAF on projecting leg of square and read angle. Use this angle to drill guide block to be used to guide drill in boat. Also a heat gun can be used in at least some cases to soften 5200 & other adhesives to allow one pry apart/cut through the adhesive.

Be sure to check that the transom is in the right place before you take it off and drill holes. given all the other things done wrong with this boat it might be in the wrong place to begin with. For example, is it level to the boat. is it equal side to side. was it installed where the manf. said it should be with the engines your using? Just a thought.

Thats different, How do tictoc get on KZbin. I thought KZbin was for videos

Man, that sucks! I feel for you!

Q

Here's the solution. Mark all the holes from the inside of the bracket. Mark an outline of the bracket from the exterior. Remove the bracket. Drill your holes perpendicular as needed. Remove the ablative bottom paint within the area that the bracket needs to occupy. Reinstall with 5200 or similar adhesive sealant. Bob's your uncle!

Just mark all the holes before you remove the bracket and then drill the holes

Damnit Andy that sucks. But at least your holes will be true. Yes debond will work- but i hate waiting. Try putting a scraper attachment in your oscillating tool and see if that'll get between the transom and bracket. Whatever you do- don't jack up your shoulders!

does it come with template or 2 nd hand bracket ? make 1 an pull the mfer it wont stay in water for bottom paint to delam sooner

Mark the holes, remove the bracket, fix the paint, drill the holes. Then seal it properly and bolt it in place. :)

Think it has something to do with the name. I'm all ways taking one step forward and two or three back. I'll give you a hint on the name, It starts with a M and ends with a r. (last name)

Very instructive, thankyou

Pop a couple of Crusaders in there and go fishing!

If you remove the transom to remove the bottom paint, could you make a template of the bolt hole positions and pre drill the holes before putting the transom back on .

When did any job on a boat go the way you'd hoped? Compound curves and angles and tight spaces will get you every time! Maybe I missed something at the beginning but could you not have used a square as a drill guide from inside the boat to get a perpendicular hole?

Too bad, its coming off, but using a laser level and tape measure might have been able to translate the lower outer edges to the inside. (Think surveying with a transit)

To aline a hole you can not easily access, get yourself a piece of pipe (1/2" black iron works well) or even a 2x4 and build two brackets on it long enough to reach your desired point. Then, predrill the brackets. Then, use the predrilled hole as you guide and you done.

So good that you are back to solving issues…the right way…the main reason why I come here 👍🏼

I would take a marker and mark all of the holes before removing the armstrong bracket, then drill them while it's off.

Mark the holes before you remove it! Then after it’s out of the way you can drill comfortably from the outside before stripping the paint.

The angle of the dangle plus the square of the hair equals the cube of the tube.

To bad it has to come off, but at least you know it’ll be done right. Glad you’re able to get back at it. Looking forward to the next video.