How to Install / Remove Pinion Bearing Races

This is an in-depth look at how to work with automotive drivetrain bearing races, including tips from experienced drivetrain technicians, tricks for telling when a race is appropriately seated, and a quick ranking of various tools to complete the job.
These methods work on all bearing races, regardless of the differential style being worked on.
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:34 Race Removal Methods
1:42 Bearing Races
1:55 Race Installation Methods

[@rearwheelperformance]

Visit nationaldrivetrain.com & enter YT30OFF at checkout for a limited time 30% off a wide assortment of drivetrain & suspension components!

[@charleslane8485]

Thank you for this video. It will be a big help on my GM 10 bolt!

[@rearwheelperformance]

Thank you for your input. Hope all goes well!

[@vikinghauler3244]

Some people say to only use aluminum drivers on a race . I have used steel several times with no apparent problem.What is your opinion ?

[@rearwheelperformance]

Most drivers that are made with softer metal than the race or bearing should be fine - brass, aluminum, etc. As remote a possibility as it may be in light automotive processes, but still important to keeping safe, is knowing that using hardened steel drivers can cause problems with creating chips that can be can potentially penetrate skin and eyes. Thanks for the input.

[@vikinghauler3244]

@@rearwheelperformance So the unhardened steel driver is ok as not to damage the race ?

[@timdavis1627]

I wish mine goes in that easily I've been trying to install my larger race for the past three days I hit a certain place and it stops moving yes it is a correct part I frizzes, put some gear oil and it still stops at the spot the only thing is next is either heat up the inside the case or build a homemade press I’m basically using the same tools as you but it is not working for me so my question is what is your secret because it work for you but not for me, you install it like it was nothing. My front race went in without issues the only thing I do not have is a shop to work inside and $100,000 worth equipment like you are using like I lift a real press and so on what I like to see someone that use a basic tools and laying on there backs and try to do this and taking the old races out that was another fun one to do as well so tell me what I’m doing wrong or do I have to buy $$100,000 with equipment.

[@rearwheelperformance]

Unfortunately, race and seal driving has a lot to do with developed technique. In most cases, if it goes only partially in but keeps stopping in the same area, it is likely the bore is galled a bit. For tough situations, carefully grind any gouges away, then sand/file/dremel all the sharp leading edges of the bore and the radius at the races leading edge. Sometimes it requires a bigger hammer, a much longer and flat ended punch. We've had the easiest time with the cheap puck kits from Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc. that usually reduce the effort to caveman levels of thought and preparation. Remember that every swing of that hammer is developing muscle memory and experience, and that will carry over to future projects and make them easier.