How to install, strip and cut MC cable with no special tools

[@daP.A]

Thanks for watching, if this helped you leave a comment and subscribe. Helpful links: MC connectors for 1/2 knockout - amzn.to/37UnErD Southwire MC cable 12/2 - amzn.to/3q2whX8 Wire cutter and stripper - amzn.to/3aYaLOW Voltage tester - amzn.to/3q0Isnx Tin snips - amzn.to/37Sy5vM Metal outlet box 1/2 knockout - amzn.to/3uvwlSK

[@tumbalo71]

This video was majorly helpful as I had no experience with MC cable before. Many thanks to U!

[@DocMicrowave]

Same here, thanks.

[@stephenbrady5220]

Good job for bot being an electrician. I’d put a red bushing on before you put the wires into the connector or atleast a little tape around the metal part you filed.

[@mcdevious2229]

Great video, thanks! Unroll the metal clad. Great idea. I'm working with 6/3 MC, so unraveling it could be a challenge. I'm doing a small job of about twelve cuts, so I prefer not to buy a Southwire RF-170 for a hundred bucks. I'll try this. Looks like it will at least work for the four square boxes. A hacksaw will work for the two or so feet to go into the breaker box. You have to be very careful though to avoid nicking the wires. 🙂

[@jerryr6713]

I think you need a red head (protector) between the MC cable and push on connector.

[@daP.A]

on those its built in.

[@akeldamach]

@@daP.A pretty sure you were using an ast-38 connector. they literally do not have an anti-short built in. to respond to jerry, obviously everything is up to local code, but im in an extremely strict JHA part of the US (seattle area... these inspectors are dick heads) so this guy is wrong about the connector having them built in, but sort of right that they arent "required". Just a much better installation than relying on a file on a some bx/mc connection? just put a red head on. most spools have a pack taped to them. take the 10 seconds to throw one on. or spend 5 minutes unwinding the jacket, cutting it, and filing it down like this guy....

[@RedRyz3n]

@@akeldamach You are wrong. I just read the NEC on AC and MC cables. Anti-short bushings are required for AC cable by the national electrical code in section 320.40 it clearly states “an insulated bushing or its equivalent protection shall be provided between conductors and the armor. For MC cable the code does NOT state that anti-short bushings are required. Therefore, they are optional. Why Does MC Cable Come With Anti-Short Bushings If They Are Not Needed? BPT Fittings sums up this issue below: "The inclusion of anti-short bushings with coils or reels of MC cable is based on historical practice relating to the requirements of 320.40 of the NEC, which mandates the use of anti-short bushing or its equivalent protection for Type AC Cable BPT Fittings" They have included anti-shorts historically for AC cable so they continue to do so for MC cable. That is a convenience for some electricians who like to do it the old way and who want the added "safety" in their installations that they feel the anti-short bushing provides. As of today, there is no factual evidence stating that anti-short bushings increase safety when using MC cable. If this is ever the case I am sure NFPA would require anti-short bushings for MC cables.

[@akeldamach]

@@RedRyz3n what am I specifically wrong about? It's unclear from your NEC references what I said that was wrong...

[@christopherhernandez1863]

@@daP.A aalways insulate your conductors even with snap on connectors. Most mc rolls provide red bushings for insulation

[@mattblattel8106]

You can bend the aluminum clad cables until the sheathing separates from it's locked position, then pull the end you're trimming to quickly separate and unspool the sheathing instead of unravelling the entire length from the end. Then use side cutters or something comparable to cut the excess sheathing, slide it down off the wires, put anti short bushing in the end and gently and carefully pinch the sheathing back flush where you made the cut. Also can sometimes pull the snap in connector while twisting counterclockwise to remove it. Doesn't always work, but when it does, it prefers a Dos Equis.

[@daP.A]

:)

[@Dachamp2001]

I hope you have a GFCI breaker for the outlet nice job

[@swampyankee72]

Thanks a lot! This helps a ton. Im rewiring My trailer for the 3rd time in 5 years, I'm going to use MC cable so I won't have to do it again!

[@daP.A]

Good luck

[@SerenoOunce]

For a trailer the wiring is supposed to be run through the frame tube.

[@swampyankee72]

@@SerenoOunce What if its C-channel frame?

[@macmen007]

A pair a cut resistant gloves are recommended; or a box of bandages.

[@blackhorse2947]

Good information and demonstration

[@daP.A]

thank you.

[@79brumley]

Anytime you cut the mc cable you should install anti short bushings then install the fitting.

[@wesley1983]

6:16 Quick and easy, but good luck getting it out.

[@daP.A]

Easy to get it out

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Important note iny area you can not use BX with it's inferior #16 or 18 guage aluminum ground wire in any commercial sites .Must use type MC cable with a great insulated ground wire. At the large hospital that I retired from you were not allowed to use flimsy push in connectors for at least last 20 years.

[@SerenoOunce]

Can't stand and don't trust those flimsy push-in connectors. May be OK for range hood but *never* at a junction or receptacle box. Seen too many fail and make for a piss poor ground.

[@Jutilaje]

You can typically "unscrew" the connector from the MC, no? Rather than bending the barbs in with a screwdriver.

[@surferdude642]

Yes you can

[@stephenbrady5220]

If it works. They’re annoying af

[@f14tomcataocretired95]

Super Video! Quick and to the point without any BS. Well done!

[@daP.A]

Thanks

[@PardonTheInteruption1]

can you tell me what that black installation at 1:42 is called on the right of the outlet?

[@johncasor9698]

When did BX cable stop being used? BX Wiring Old Armored Cable - Kuhlman Electric It became popular in the 1920s, and it was the main wiring type by 1932. BX wiring was used until the late 1940s, when it was replaced by early Romex (non-metallic sheathed cable).

[@bugume]

excellent video!!!!!

[@Around_The_Home]

The metal boxes, both the switch box and the junction box, really should be bonded to the equipment ground. This is not hard to do. Typically, metal boxes have a threaded hole that you would use to attach either a bare copper wire or a green insulated wire to the box and then include the other end inside the wire nut that has the other ground (equipment grounding conductors) wires.

[@daP.A]

Box was grounded, pigtail off the ground wire

[@jarrydee2799]

I made the mistake yesterday of using one of those boxes like you have in the video with the MC push in connectors. It stuck to far into the little box and the receptacle would not screw in all the way because it was hitting the connector. pain in the ass.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Best practice if using a surface box always use the 2& 1/8" deep metal boxes & not the shallow 1.25 or 1.5" deep boxes. Same thing when using new & old work wall boxes.

[@surferdude642]

I would use a 4" square drawn box by 1 1/2" deep with a duplex receptacle cover. The receptacle mounts to the cover. Drawn boxes have rounded corners which eliminate sharp edges and the box width will eliminate connector interference.

[@ClosetWorkshop]

Thanks a lot, This was super helpful!

[@daP.A]

thank you, subscribe for more videos.

[@1575murray]

The person making the video should have used a Seatek roto-split tool to cut the armor on the MC cable. It makes nice clean cuts without damaging the conductors or leaving rough edges that can cut you. Many inspectors will fail you if they see hacksaw cuts or other evidence that improper tools were used.

[@Shipwreck8l8]

Awesome,e this answered all my questions.

[@daP.A]

please consider subscribing for more videos

[@wdashwor]

I bought some of these snap-in type MC connectors (Arlington brand), but am leery about using them because it looks like there is nothing to keep the sharp teeth or other internal parts from damaging the connector.

[@daP.A]

No issues yet

[@mubarakkhan537]

Thanks for making this

[@johncasor9698]

What is BX cable stand for? A little BS on BX cables. Armored or Metal Clad Cables used ... Armored cable (AC) first appears in the 1903 NEC. There were originally two initial versions of armored cable. One was called “AX” and the other “BX,” with the “X” standing for “experimental.” The “BX” version became the one that eventually was produced, and hence the name “BX” became the common name.

[@jamesc1615]

Nice video. I was just wondering where you were able to find an 8 foot length MC cable? I am looking for roughly only 8 feet of 10/3+ground MC, but haven’t been able to find lengths less than 50 feet.

[@daP.A]

home depot

[@johnmainolfi8054]

why do u need MC cable? 10/3 AC or BX cable are still fine

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

​@@johnmainolfi8054

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

​@@johnmainolfi8054 MC cable has a far superior full sized insulated green ground wire rather then extra flimsy #18 guage aluminum ground wire inside of type AC cable. No such thing in NEC called BX. In just about every commercial site you must use type MC cable and not garbage type AC cable.

[@johnmainolfi8054]

armor clad cable has two means of ground path. the thin bond wire and the armor is approved as bond. MC cable does not have an approved armor ground and thus the green ground conductor. it is a matter of preference and i find no issues with AC at all. why bother with the added space required to connect all grounding conductors?. commercial projects i use MC/AP which has a no.10 aluminum ground. no need to terminate it in the enclosures, just trim to the end of the cable. inspectors identity it by the only white wire within a cable that is stamped. to each his own.

[@HurlnYak]

I have MC 4/3 1 1/4 inch. Any idea where I can find a cutter large enough to strip it? TIA Deane

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

Yeah: a qualified electrician. I don't know what you're planning on doing that requires 4/3, but by virtue of you asking this question, I DO know you SHOULDN'T be. Anything necessitating 4/3 is killing voltages. ...that or you jacked a bunch of MC wire and intend to scrap it for copper. In which case? Your local fire station will lend you their cutters. Just explain why you need em.

[@nyetloki]

MC isnt allowed to be unprotected "where subject to physical damage". That run below 8 ft would need to be in conduit or framed off with 1x4 or something.

[@Flyer41W]

Great video! Thanks!

[@daP.A]

No problem, please consider subscribing for more

[@FinnishGreekMexican]

Great Content! 👍🏽

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Code NEVER stated that boxes must be visible but rather.something like accessable.

[@daP.A]

Agreed

[@pabloortiz3521]

Thank you realy helpfull

[@michaelbrabeck2491]

Thank you!

[@acaglumac]

Is it allowed to put a plastic outlet cover on a metal box?

[@daP.A]

Yes, its part of it

[@SerenoOunce]

May technically be allowed but really shouldn't. Plastic cover plates stick out too far being more susceptible to damage on an exposed box.

[@dan-777-abc]

Since that was a 15-Amp receptacle did you use 14/2 or 12/2?

[@surferdude642]

He used 12/2, it was shown in the video. It's most likely a 20 amp circuit, but was not proven. A 15 amp receptacle is acceptable on a 20 amp circuit. A 20 amp receptacle is not acceptable on a 15 amp circuit.

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

That's as may be... but I'm pretty sure you DO need a GFI/GFCI in most municipalities where the possibility of water intrusion exists. I'm assuming this is New York (way out on a limb there, I know), and sorta by definition if you're wiring up a water heater that possibility exists.

[@gregoryreffner2939]

You should not have the wire insulation touching the receptacle terminals. Strip back more and ground that metal box.

[@the4thstooge80]

Thanks !!

[@daP.A]

Np, consider subscribing for more.

[@jennyanimal9046]

Thank you

[@patrickbrumm420]

being able to see and put hands on junction boxes was not a thing in 1933 when my house was built, probably a kit home, and very certainly DIY.

[@phatman808]

5:52 insulation under the screws, this dude is a walking fire hazard.

[@daP.A]

its non conductive.

[@SerenoOunce]

@@daP.A That's exactly the point. You screwed over the wire insulation on the switch, not the bare conductor.

[@thedude5040]

That mc cable should be supported every 6ft

[@daP.A]

Ok, what else did you find wrong. At most it was 6 feet.

[@akazman8308]

You need to run a pig tail to ground the metal box.

[@daP.A]

I did that

[@RedRyz3n]

I’m a home owner and this is how to NOT install MC.

[@runner7741]

no red eyes?

[@dirksimmang]

file ? where is the red devil ? 😮

[@davidperry4013]

Whenever I wire my house, I want to use MC cable.

[@480pHITS]

U need a red bushing anti Short

[@daP.A]

@@480pHITS it was used, it'd part of the cable, but good poinf

[@mariaa6188]

Gostei de ver bom trabalho bjs

[@mcdevious2229]

Flat head is a type of screw, not a screw driver. I think you wanted to say, "slotted-screwdriver," or "slot screwdriver." Great video. I really like the methods you present that don't require special tools.

[@lelanddyke8386]

booooo

[@mcdevious2229]

😁😇

[@DonnieBodacious]

Shout out to anti shorts

[@paulbecker9426]

after watching you hack that bx cable i wouldn't hire you to install a wireless doorbell. nice cutaway from when you mashed through the bx and had the connector magically appear.

[@richardv5674]

Is Adam Sandler narrating this video?

[@daP.A]

Do I sound like him?

[@richardv5674]

Yes

[@richardlea818]

His accent is definitely extremely pronounced, but i dont hear adam sandler in there

[@vinny1995]

@@daP.A I don't think so, but I do love your accent!

[@Brandonallen-b1r]

Lmao people watching please do not run MC wore this way. Keep doing your research 😅

[@johnmainolfi8054]

how not to install cable. this is the typical home owner who refuses to call a professional. once you use tin snips, you lost all the pro's as your viewers and encouraged amateurs to install violations. btw....if you are planning to use wire ties or zip ties....DONT as they are in violation of every electrical code on planet earth. leave it to a pro for gods sake!

[@RyanLenz]

I get that a rotosplit is the 'proper' tool for the job, but what exactly is wrong with cutting the cable through (with whatever tool will do the job) and then 'unwinding' the amorclad, filing/cutting off any sharp bit, and using a red devil? It seems like it would function just as well. Yes, it would take longer obviously, but for a homeowner who will likely need to cut maybe 1 piece of MC per decade....doesn't really justify buying a specialized tool. Plus, from what I've seen, those rotosplits leave that sharp bit that has to be dealt with anyway. (Agreed about the zip ties, however...)

[@johnmainolfi8054]

@@RyanLenz hey ryan, i can understand what you are saying and i agree that in a pinch cut/skin it however you can while trying real hard not to damage the conductors. often, damage is done to the conductors without actually seeing it or obvious to the eye but what will happen is even though when you snap the armor it still digs into the conductors exposed or hidden and that creates a weak spot on the conductor insulation. the insulation is very unforgiving as it does not rebound. chances are nothing will happen but its not the correct way. i used to see this on my jobsites and would quickly condemn the men and i bought them all roto-splits and 32 teeth hack saw blades. be safe ryan

[@RyanLenz]

@@johnmainolfi8054 I'm still trying to understand where/when exactly the risk to the conductors is, when you use his method. You cut all the way through the metal armor and the conductors at the very end (no risk of 'damaging' the conductors here, because you're literally cutting all the way through them anyway...). Then you unwind the metal armor (I don't see how you could damage the conductors at this step). Then you snip the flattened/unwound armor at the appropriate place (say 8" back from the cut conductors). If you are reasonably careful here, it would be very easy to avoid damaging the conductors. Then you clean up any sharp edge. Again, you'd have to be really careless to damage the conductor -- PLUS, even using the rotosnip you still need to clean up the sharp bit left over. So I'm still not convinced this is unsafe, its just inefficient/slow. Again, for the professional electrician it would be rediculous (except, say, he ends up on a high scaffold, forgot his rotosnip, and has just a single connection to do). For the homeowner, it'd be silly to buy a whole tool just for this.

[@johnmainolfi8054]

@@RyanLenz you do realize that there is a mfg maximum bend radius dont you ? that max bend is there for a reason. when u break the cable you risk damaging the integrity of the conductors. its not good practice. professionally speaking, when i find the ends of the cable cut and left sharp edges on the spool end......i flip out because ive had men wind up at first med' to get stitches. not good practice...simple but again...one time....go ahead.

[@surferdude642]

@@RyanLenz As a diy guy, i prefer to use proper tools in most cases, and would use a rotosplit in this case. You can get away with it, but it takes experience to not make mistakes. A rotosplit is not that expensive, $30 or so.

[@philiphealey516]

Please take this video down or update it to show installing an anti-short insert that goes between the wires and edge of armor casing BEFORE putting on the connector!!!! What you have done is dangerous as it can short. Also, equipment such as a tankless heater require their own circuit, its not legal to jump off another circuit that has other loads on it. You have the wire insulation under the screws of your outlet terminals, this can cause a loss connection, and possible arcing, another fire hazard. You do not have the outer casing removed from the wires inside the junction box, again not to Code. I understand you are not an electrician, but its not ethical to have this up as advice because there are people who will trust your work as safe.

[@daP.A]

The point of the video is how to cut mc cable with no special tools. I did put the red anti short on the connector. Water heaters that run on gas require very little amps and it's been working on this circuit with no issues. Others also have pointed out that I didn't ground the box but the middle screw on the metal plate does that. This video is not meant to be expert advise, it's a simple explanation on how to cut mc cable without special tools. The user does this, and any other YT advice, at thir risk. With that said this install has worked with zero issues for years.

[@williamwallace9826]

BORING. I stopped watching after 2 minutes. Did he ever get around to showing what the video is supposed to be about -- which is stripping MC cable, not how to install a tankless water heater?

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

Dude. The video is 7 minutes long. That's 3.5 minutes at 2x speed. If you lack that level of attention span? You have NO excuse playing with mains voltages.

[@davidbryant3532]

Will you please stop using the word basically??? Damn

[@harvestmoon2731]

Basically, No 😅