How To Install the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend on Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro

[@alexfrenchmaker1903]

The video is really made in a well educational way. I mean it's perfect for teachers at school who have to learn 3dprinting. Everything is clear and organized. Well done!

[@BV3D]

Thank you, Alex! Much appreciated. 👍

[@ZenAdm1n_]

@@BV3D Agreed! To the point. Channel info at the end of the video. I just got an Ender 3 so I'm subbed now.

[@bnutz3k]

It is strongly recommended to drop your retraction waaaay lower than that to prevent clogging. Recommended settings, based on other articles and things I've obsessed over this week, are .5 to 1mm. Start at .8 and do some test models. Should have very light, wispy stringing if any. I get mine today, so looking forward to that egg on my face. Subscribed. Thanks! :)

[@256guitarplayer]

Thank you for the detailed step by step instructions. I have the Ender 3 V2, but your guide worked fine. My thermistor was stuck in the original heat block with filament from a previous jam up. The only way I could get it out was to hold the block in vise-grips, heat it to 200C, and push it out with a hex wrench from the end opposite the wires. This may be helpful to other viewers who encounter the same issue. Thanks for all the excellent videos Bryan!

[@gdingus]

Very nice video, helped me on the installation of the Micro Swiss. One issue I had that I haven't seen here or in other videos is that a small amount of PLA had gotten under the stock silicone sock and made it to the thermistor and was actually in the hole for it. It seemed like it was taking way too much force to remove it. So, I reinstalled the heater cartridge, separated the hot end and fan assembly, and powered the printer back up. Turned on the heater and once it was at temp, I shut everything down and pulled the plug. I was able to easily remove the thermistor. I was worried about breaking those fragile wires and this kept me from doing that. Cool shirt, keep up the good work!

[@boriszotkin1258]

Thank you. had similar problem, ended up doing the same thing

[@nickbyrd2322]

3 years later, this is still the comment that saved me from wrecking my whole heating element.

[@donaldweeks7089]

I am new to 3d printing. in the last three months I have watched almost all of your videos and found solutions to many problems. you do a excellent job on all subjects. I am a tool maker and design plastic molds and prototypes . Have wanted a printer for years.

[@stevrgrs]

I love that shirt :)

[@wootsman]

Thanks for the simple no nonsense install video!

[@BV3D]

You're welcome!

[@shaark_1396]

@@BV3D hey I want to do this but my tiny tiny screw to the thermistor thing is striped! What do I do?!

[@26PoundEvo]

After installing the MicroSwiss (re)calibrate your P.I.D. and you won't have to print 5-10° hotter. I'd also suggest (re)calibrating your e-steps after this also just to be sure you're still extruding the correct amount after the upgrade and calibration.

[@billylozito1789]

can this be done through cura printer settings?

[@Henfredemars]

Are you sure this is true? It helps some, but I find I still need a few more degrees. PID improves temperature stability yes, but I think all metal hot ends still may need a little more heat.

[@CandCRacin]

​@Henfredemars, always a good idea and is not the end all, be all, when it comes to print issues, but adding some additional heat can be done as well, yes. A lot of the time the additional heat has more to do with the material itself and I've seen that vary quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer.

[@TD3DMakes]

Excellent, thanks Bryan. I've got one installed on my CR10S (essentially the same installation procedure). It's and excellent product that very happy with it and am considering one for the Ender. Have a wonderful day!

[@BV3D]

That's cool, Thierry! I bought a couple of extra nozzles when I placed this order, one of which is a 0.8mm. I also got some for my Monoprice printers. I'm interested to try printing with a larger nozzle. Maybe something in vase mode... Thanks and have a great day! 😀

[@TD3DMakes]

Awesome. I use my 0.8mm nozzle quite a bit for practical prints. Parts are way stronger with the benefit of faster prints. I think you'll find it handy for sure. I need to experiment the other way with smaller nozzles. I've been printing mini's with a 0.4 and haven't had a chance to try my .2 yet. Looking forward to your next video!

[@RobStangle]

Fantastic! Thank you! I wasn't sure I wanted one...watched until the end, used your link, and I've got an upgrade coming in the mail!

[@kouyang599]

I like how you make it stupid simple. Few words and straight forward. Keep it up

[@ericcunningham5190]

Thanks for the helpful video! My factory hot end/nozzle became so clogged that nothing I did seemed to fix it. This helped a ton with replacing it. Unfortunately the thermistor and the factory nozzle both broke off when trying to remove them, so that was fun. Either way, you got a sub from me for this! I haven't tested it yet, but wanted to leave a comment before I forgot!

[@tonywharton5220]

I love how quick your printer heats up 😉 Turbo style. Another reason for a all metal hot end is, the ptfe gives off some very dangerous gasses as it degrades. Just for those using a bl touch, the micro Swiss is a few mm shorter than the original so a few adjustments need to be made.

[@BV3D]

Hi Tony! I wish that was realtime heating! Haha! Thanks for the additional info about PTFE, high temperatures, and the height difference with the Micro Swiss! 👍

[@terryleonhardt7029]

Just installed the micro swiss on my Ender 3 Max following your video, everything fit and went perfect, even the Z offset for my Bltouch leveling was perfect! Great video, and great product from Micro Swiss!

[@DigitalPsyche]

You earned an instant like for the t-shirt alone, lol.

[@mhhillman]

Thanks for this video. I just performed this upgrade and I'm very happy with the result. Fixed an issue with clogging, and the print quality looks really good so far. Thanks again!

[@mhhillman]

just to follow up - after a few weeks, this is one of the better upgrades I've made to my Ender 3 Pro. Really happy with the results. Thanks again for sharing these instructions. Thank you!

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Excellent Swiss Install tutorial thanks for posting Bryan !

[@BV3D]

Hi Ron! Thank you very much! 😀

[@richardbennett8678]

Thank you for all your videos. I love your 6pac ABS t-shirt

[@krisestrada5084]

Just bought it and installed in less than 30 minutes, lovely video helped me out tons

[@BV3D]

Great to hear! 😃

[@DaveM2]

Was it worth while? Is there a huge difference of the stock Ender 3 Pro?

[@krisestrada5084]

@@DaveM2 for me personally it was because I had chewed up bowden tubes from constant movement as well as ruined hester block from using pliers to remove nozzles. So I was looking for something that would male the tubes last longer and needed a new block anyways, thus far its worked pretty well. Mostly use it for printing masks and miniatures. Havent had to worry about changing the tubes but that's more of a long term thing ill keep an eye out on

[@DaveM2]

@@krisestrada5084 Thanks Kris

[@ctoxyz]

I tried 3 other videos... Yours kicked ass. Thank you :)

[@BV3D]

Thank you, Nathan! 👍

[@darransykes5703]

This is invaluable as I'm new to 3d printing and need to change my nozzle from stock to replacement. Looks easy enough and thanks...

[@nathanbrickwood6444]

Just used this to do mine, did the Bowden tube while I was at it, fantastic instructions and easy to follow

[@madmike8406]

Great Video, I installed the Microswiss hotend on a couple CR10s at work. So, far they have worked good... now we just need a dehydrator for nylon.

[@BV3D]

Thanks! I've only had this installed for a few days but I have no complaints so far. Can you make one of the food dehydrator-based filament driers? I made one out of a big storage tub. I mounted the dehydrator on the lid, upside down, so it blows into the tub. And I cut some vent holes at the far side of the lid so the airflow moves through the box. It works pretty well.

[@charliebowen4232]

Hay Bryan, great video! Love the shirt!!

[@BV3D]

Hi Charlie! Thanks! I like the shirt too. My wife and daughter got it for me on my birthday. 😄

[@HarvardBob]

Just what I was looking for. Excellent video. Content was spot on. I did the replacement in parallel with you. Really well done, video edits were clean. Video quality excellent. Audio however. You need to buy a better Lavalier microphone or possibly its the room acoustics. The audio sound reflective, somewhat tinny, and there is a low level backgound hiss. I am being picky because the rest of the production is excellent. I think you will really notice the difference. Looking forward to new videos.

[@BV3D]

Hi HarvardBob, audio quality has been a hard thing for me, I admit. I've gone through several microphones, but these days I'm using an old Shure wireless lav mic, running through a small mixer, and I seem to be getting better quality. Part of the acoustic issues on this one may have been that I was pretty close to my monitor, which was just off frame. I'm sure speaking that closely to a flat pane of glass didn't do the audio any favors! 😬 Let me know if newer videos (say, in the last 3 months) sound better. Thanks!

[@YASAJTV]

Thumbs up for detailed close up shots

[@willcrockett7732]

Hey Bryan, GREAT video my friend. I just followed it to install the new hot end on my Ender 3 pro and really appreciate the details and tips on z offset values. Much appreciated, thanks for making this video.

[@sewwiththelakes5783]

Thank you for your video, made the install a breeze even though I’m using an Ender 6, everything was similar to the ender 3 and your detailed instructions made it simple to figure out the differences.

[@gasser5001]

Literally lol'd at that shirt. Good stuff, great video. About to put one of these on my Ender 3 V2.

[@T0phen95]

I would also calibrate the PID settings for the hotend after installation. Might not have to set the print temp higher once calibrated.

[@davidolson7575]

Hi Bryan, Great Video!!! I think you might want to trim the outside of the Boden tube This will make seating the tube a bit better. i am going to make my ender a direct drive with dual lead screws i think..

[@BV3D]

Hi David! Thanks for the suggestion. I trimmed a little off the end of the tube using the Captubes cutter I got in one of the Alien3D UFO boxes. I'm thinking of doing a direct-drive extruder on the Ender 3 Pro, too. I prefer my direct-drive printers, but I have to say that the Bowden setup on the Enders works a lot better than I had thought it would. I've been researching Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro mods on Thingiverse and there are a few Dual Z setups. 👍

[@TheEdgeofTech]

Great video Bryan!

[@BV3D]

Thanks Jim! Sorry I missed your Monday evening stream. I've got the replay queue up--I want to see what all went on! 👍

[@TheEdgeofTech]

@@BV3D No problem!

[@Katastrophyk]

Thank you so much for this video, I was completely lost trying to get this thing installed.

[@thefeet]

This was an excellent and concise instructional. TYVM!

[@travisdaye1977]

I installed most of this off printer before actually doing the "heat tightening" on the nozzle. Setup seemed to be fine

[@ScaldaYT]

Great video nicely done

[@BV3D]

HI Scalda! Thanks! 👍

[@alijandramccarl7979]

Super helpful, much appreciated. You make great videos.

[@BV3D]

Thank you! I'm glad they're useful!

[@kevinmu1991]

Huge help man. Thanks for what you do

[@BV3D]

Hi Kevin! I'm glad this was useful! Thanks so much for watching! 👍

[@andypodmore6721]

Great video. Surprised to see you didn't do a PID tuning of the hot hotend after the install, which should always be done after changing anything

[@BV3D]

I probably should have. Looking at the temperature graph in OctoPrint, the printer doesn't show any wild temperature swings. But you're right, it's still a good idea to do this after changing hot end components.

[@JohnHavord]

Very well explained and clear tutorial. Thank you.

[@BV3D]

Thanks John! I'm glad you enjoyed it! ☺

[@esrevinu.]

lol straight up liked and sub'd over the McDLT comment hahaha. Excellent shirt, too!

[@kerseyfabs]

Great step-by-step Bryan! Have you tried to print any more exotic filaments? I have one of these on deck for my Ender 5.

[@BV3D]

I don't _have_ anything more exotic than ABS. Well, I've got some cleaning filament. I think it's nylon. But I don't think I want to use it on a Benchy or anything. 😀

[@CharlesGouin]

Thanks! Hot stuff right there.

[@GOuTaKaRaCtR]

This was awesome

[@shredelites]

Brilliant, thanks for this

[@BV3D]

You're welcome. Wow, I did this a year ago?! Time flies! 🕰

[@RobertWiggers]

Thanks!! Clear and very helpful

[@davehaddix947]

Here’s a comment just because I found you valuable! Thanks!

[@BV3D]

Aw, thanks! That was nice of you! 😊

[@Drjamm711]

Every time I make an upgrade to my Ender 3 Pro I always find myself on your channel In case anyone was curious, touching a 230 degree nozzle does not feel good.

[@WhiteTigerBlue]

Was tightening the nozzle and it snapped off. Should've used a smaller handle, didn't notice how much torque I was applying. New one way

[@scottsavins6448]

Another excellent video. I love the Micro Swiss products. I believe they are made in the USA. Thanks

[@BV3D]

Hi Scott! Thanks -- I love their products, too. I've had them on my Monoprice printers for a while now. And you are correct, they are Made in USA. 😀

[@witherscreations]

Awsome Video The Heater Block Proprietary To MIcroswiss Or Can You Find Other Places To Buy Thanks.

[@alexcrowder1673]

Awesome..... they never game me an allen wrench for the set scree on the hot end.... not the only piece that was missing from the box either.... its apparently in between any of the sizes for any of my allen wrench sets.

[@VolJoe]

Nicely made video, thank you for this.

[@crank_FPV]

Great video thank you

[@chrisgulotta]

Hey nice 6-Pack

[@BV3D]

Thanks Chris! I've got more of a 12-pack underneath though. I should exercise a little more. 😂

[@robertreynolds9271]

Love that shirt Bryan. Great video thanks for sharing.

[@BV3D]

Thanks Robert! My wife and kiddo got it for me as a birthday gift. I've got something of a wardrobe of T-shirts for these videos now! 😄

[@robertsgarlata7552]

I hope everybody sees this: DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON THE NOZZLE. Mine sheared off. I think it's pretty safe to go by feel on this one.

[@medyk3D]

Great shirt!

[@BV3D]

😄Thanks!

[@Jumptownwore]

just my personal experience. I had massive stringing, AND clogging, when having the Ender3 V2 on 5mm retract, but turning it down to 4 fixed all issues for me, so I will experiment further on this.

[@JustCreateYou]

How did you retract it did you do it on cura?

[@rcpimp6419]

great video

[@sonnywillier9419]

Thumbs up for the McDLT reference alone!

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Love the video; very; easy to follow. I watched the video a few times taking notes. I have put together hotness several times but I still don't exactly understand the best procedure. Question: where did you find the info about retraction amount. I also have the E3D all metal hotend. with that hotend they say not to retract more than 2mm As to not get filament to pull into the cold part of the hotend. So is the Microswiss hotend coated or designed differently as to allow 5+mm of retraction. An explanation will be greatly appreciated!! With a Bowden tube set up in the past I had to go with 7mm and then I had 0 stringing. With the E3D hotend at only 2mm of retraction I could not stop stringing no matter how fast or slow I retracted. THANK YOU!! I love that the Microswiss is a drop in replacement.

[@bolts5372]

Brian you are a hoot

[@mcorrade]

thanks a million. I'm waiting on my swiss to arrive and there were some items others didn't mention like the print temp to 5 degrees higher. I normally print my pla at 200c so I should up it to 205c? Is resetting the retraction necessary or just advisable ? Oh and new sub :)

[@zk_6312]

I have been using mine for awhile now and have no complaints really. Well, I do have one. Apparently I did not get it tight enough or it loosened up and filament is leaking onto the top of the heater block. Now, I have to figure out a method to clean the filament off and tighten it so it won't leak.

[@vroberts1976]

I like your videos but one criticism .... I'd like to see the results of the cool thing you print after the modifications in the video.

[@2cool4u24]

I was wondering how far that bowden tube goes into the heat sink. Mine clicks into place but pushing it down doesn't go down any further. If you look from the top of the heat sink the tube looks like has room to go down further but doesn't when pushing the tube down.

[@BV3D]

I made sure mine was fully seated, and put a mark on the PTFE tube at the top of the retaining clip. The mark was 10mm from the end of the tube.

[@2cool4u24]

@@BV3D thanks. So i will have to check mine to see how far it is from the top of the clip. It clicks and seems seated. Also it doesn't pull out unless i press down on the collet. But was wondering if it is supposed to be flush against the end of the heat sink. I guess not.

[@BV3D]

@@2cool4u24 No problem. The ring should be up a bit from the body of the heat sink. When I push the PTFE tube into it, I put the collet clip on and then push it down again. It usually goes in another millimeter, which is about the distance the collet clip raises the ring. 👍

[@2cool4u24]

@@BV3D i think that pretty much answered my question. Mine also goes down a tiny bit maybe about a mm after it clips into place and i put the clip on.

[@jcoghill2]

I was with you up to the screws. Mine doesn't have any as I have a Longer LK5 Pro. So now what? UPDATE: There is a microscopic set screw that undoes the whole heater and thermistor.

[@MrKartdriver5]

Thank you

[@spikekent]

Hey Bryan, another great tutorial video, that's exactly how I installed my Micros Swiss hotend on the Borg several months ago. Got it from the awesome 3DPrintz.co.uk who are MicroSwiss resellers here in the UK. My retraction is set at 2.4mm which works great.

[@BV3D]

Hi Spike! I'm slowly dialing mine downward. I've still got that Sunlu Blue Grey spool loaded, and I'm using it up. I find that filament is good for practical prints, but not the greatest for "pretty" prints. What's your retraction speed? I've got mine pretty slow, around 20-25mm/s.

[@spikekent]

@@BV3D Sorry for taking so long to reply. I have my retraction speed set to 75mm/s. I'm currently still using S3D for slicing for the Borg, intend to switch to Prusa Slicer when I get time to tweak a profile. Almost forgot, I'm using a 0.8mm nozzle, but used the same retraction settings for 0.4mm too.

[@frantzsturm9301]

digging the shirt!

[@mungdaal558]

Thank you for the tutorial, one question did you have any issues with the hot fan as the tip on the new hot end sits farther down and the original hot end?

[@LiquiDirt3D]

Great video. Do you know if the hotend will fit a CR10S Pro as it does the cr10S? Also is the fitting that holds on the Bowden tube changeable or is it milled into the heater block?

[@coreymac2381]

Micro Swiss makes one specifically for the CR10S Pro. It is different than the one for the CR10S.

[@LiquiDirt3D]

@@coreymac2381 ok great thank you

[@BV3D]

Hi! Micro-Swiss has a different kit for the CR10S Pro. It's the same price, and here's a quick affiliate link into Amazon: amzn.to/2SPs2PC I've reached out to Micro-Swiss to find out if the Bowden fitting on the cooling block is user-replaceable. I'll let you know what they say!

[@paulradford4100]

Hi Bryan.. after watching your video, I installed the swiss hot end to my ender 3 pro. The Bowden tube needed trimming as the end was browned and the tube was sticky. Some parts of assembly was fiddley/tricky, but I'm ok with that. My first problem was that I got no extrusion at all - jamming. I soon came to realise that the pla that had been in the old hot end had a slight bulge - trimming the filament sorted that.. I set retraction to 5.5mm, hot end to 220c (max temp for my pla) and tried an xyz cube and I now find I have multiple issues.. 1) the hotter the filament, the more the flow over extrusion, oozing and stringing. 2) 1st extrusion (side of bed) - the extruder is clicking/skipping - no clicking on print 3) reducing flow rate to 50% and hot end to 200c, no clicking on 1st extrude, but not enough flow to stick to the bed - birds nest at hot end 4) flow rate at 75%, clicking returns to 1st extrude, cube prints, but very poor quality, not enough filament. I cant seem to win - over extrusion, oozing and clicking of extruder Or Wasted/failed/poor quality prints, but extruder is fine and no clicking/skipping There must be something wrong?? * I've been taken retraction way down to 2mm, but see no real difference from 5.5mm

[@technosworld2]

looks good

[@BV3D]

Thanks Chris! 😀

[@garyinflorida3589]

Bryan, I intend to upgrade to the Micro Swiss head, and I recently upgraded my Ender -3 to the 32 bit mother board. After you installed the Micro Swiss, did you have to download firmware so the Ender-3 could be set for higher temperatures? (or any other changes?)

[@empireStyle]

hello, thanks for your video. If i buy a ender 3 V3 out of the box and install this micro swiss hot end - can i start printing carbon fiber nylon? or would other upgrades be needed?

[@BV3D]

Hi! I haven't printed CF Nylon, or even regular Nylon. But ModBot has. He's got a video covering CF Nylon on the Ender 3. In his video, he's using the Micro Swiss all metal hot end with their direct drive extruder kit as well. The direct drive kit is optional (the all metal hot end is a requirement). He's also using a Micro Swiss hardened steel nozzle because it can stand up to the abuse from the abrasiveness of the carbon fiber. Give his video a watch here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2enl2d_abiLgKc

[@eagl3007]

Hi Bryan. Nice video. How's the heat creep on this metal end, up the cold block with the stock fan shroud set up? I tried using an old reprap hexagon hotend and it didn't hold up so well. Cold side was heating up too much and filament got a bit soft way before it reached nozzle causing jams. Now whether this is due to the hexagon design or lack of cooling power, idk since I didn't have any extra parts to experiment

[@robertolevy6496]

Do you know if it is necessary to install the power supply outside the enclosure if I am building an enclosure? The new ender 3 V2 has power supply underneath.

[@jakesheffey9256]

Can it print nylon ive heard you have to change the thermistor for that because it doesn’t do good at higher temps

[@tajsarin1019]

How do you remove the bowden tube if you have to unclog the nozzle?

[@BV3D]

Hi Taj! To remove the Bowden tube, first unload the filament. Then remove the red collet clip from under the black retaining ring. Finally, press the ring down toward the hot end, and with the ring pressed in, lift up on the Bowden tube. The tube should come out without much issue.

[@joebaranowski3008]

I'm quite new to 3d printing. I purchased a Micro Swiss hotend for my Ender 3 pro from Amazon Canada. What arrived was in a single clear bag, all assembled and labled Made In China. Can you suggest the route I should take from here or is it somehow a genuine thing? (duh!)

[@BV3D]

Hi Joe, it sounds like you got a non-genuine part. The Micro Swiss hot ends are made in the USA. You might reach out to Micro Swiss's support team, just to confirm. Check their Contact page ( store.micro-swiss.com/pages/contact ) and scroll down to the Support section. If it turns out the part is not genuine, I recommend returning it to Amazon.

[@joebaranowski3008]

@@BV3D I fired off a letter to Micro Swiss support thinking they might be interested that someone is using their name to sell fake products. I know I would be.

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

I am having issues with the heatbreak having heatcreep, should i put thermalpaste between the heatbreak and heatsink?

[@wiggaslam]

My hot end broke so I am planning to replace it, except there is filament stuck in my tube since it broke off and I can't seem to get it out. I have no clue what to do

[@Iheartdogdemons]

My thermistor and heater cartridge won't budge! any advice? I did unscrew everything you said. edit: nevermind! somehow, plastic had slightly infiltrated it. Had to heat the hot end and then remove while still warm.

[@brembojoe]

Any plans to make a micro swiss direct drive version?

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

Bryan, do you have any advice on retractions?

[@BV3D]

Hi! On my Ender 3 Pro with the Micro Swiss all metal hot end, I have my retraction set to 3.4 mm, at 45 mm/s.

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

BV3D: Bryan Vines, I have just tested those settings on my printer, but i am experiencing that after a retraction an airgap appears in the surface finish, a bit like a wet filament, but less often and only one time after a retraction happens. I found that if i put the temperature lower and set the retraction to 2.5mm and 25mm/s it still happens, but it is less noticeable and is a small gap. Do you have any idea why it might happen? I thought something like nozzle pressure

[@jujucattys156]

is the stock xy2 pro hot end all mettle ? as some saying yes some say no? will any mk10 all metal hot end fit

[@bluegizmo1983]

Question... In your video you say to heat up the hotend to 230C and then re-tighten everything. If I plan to use my new Microswiss hotend to occasionally print at or close to 300C, should I heat it up closer to that temp when doing the final re-tightening?

[@BV3D]

Hi Daniel! If you're going to be printing at higher temperatures, it probably wouldn't hurt to heat the hotend up to your expected print temperatures. I think the Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro stock firmware top out at 265˚C, though I may be wrong.

[@bluegizmo1983]

@@BV3D ok that's what I thought, thanks! I'm also upgrading to an SKR E3 Mini V1.2 board with Marlin 2.0, so I'll probably increase the firmware limit max temp :)

[@gutmodesign5161]

is this the same micro swiss as for the ender 5 plus ?

[@carloscarvalho4595]

excellent. Can you tell me, we need to change anything on firmware to fit micro swiss? I see some videos where people change the PID after that.

[@BV3D]

Running a PID autotune is a good idea, and I should probably have mentioned that in the video, but I didn't have any wildly fluctuating hot end temperatures after installing the Micro-Swiss. It's possible I simply got lucky. I should make a quick PID AutoTune video, and I can link to it in the description here.

[@carloscarvalho4595]

@@BV3D great. And with this do you have jams printing pla?

[@valentinleuci]

BV3D: Bryan Vines still waiting for the link :)

[@timd9430]

Wonder how this will done on the Ender 3 V2 with that new BS cover?

[@BV3D]

That's a good question. When I get a little bit of time I can do a test fit to see.

[@GreenSlugg]

I am having a really hard time with this. I have everything installed, but I can't get the settings right.

[@calinnilie]

Just installed it myself; having underextrusion issues. Weirdly, they start after the printer is done printing the bottom part of a print, and starts underextruding at the walls 😆

[@GreenSlugg]

@@calinnilie I have been making adjustments. The best temp so far with PLA seems to be 213, but other settings need adjustment as well, and this may or may not be the ideal temperature.

[@xyzebruh1083]

Why are so many people telling me on the Facebook groups that just upgrading to a micro swiss is not sufficient enough to print close to 300C temperatures and i need to change out my thermistor and motherboard?

[@BV3D]

Hi Richard! The stock firmware maxes out at 260˚C, so you will need to load modified firmware to be able to set the nozzle higher than that. I suspect the advice from the Facebook groups is a result of a Design, Prototype, Text video, here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4m4pauqa5Z0m5I He's got a ton of upgrades on his Ender 3, including running a Duet WiFi main board. The further upgrades he's doing to support high-temp printing are done with that main board in mind, because that's what's on his printer. So I don't know whether you really NEED the Duet WiFi main board, or if the replacement thermistor can be utilized by the stock board.

[@bradensinclair9517]

I’am having trouble with my ender 3 clogging up in the hotend, it’s almost like the ptfe tubing is getting to hot down near the nozzle and melting the pla filament before it actually gets to the nozzle. Not sure what to do? 😢😕

[@BV3D]

If you are using the stock hot end (sounds like that’s what you are describing), you could try removing the PTFE tube completely from the hot end. The end of it may be deformed from exposure to heat. You can use a PTFE tubing cutter or a utility knife to cut it back just a bit. You will want that cut to be as close to perfectly flat at the end of the tubing as you can manage, because it needs to seal up against the nozzle. Loosen the coupler at the top of the hot end by one or two turns, push the tubing all the way down to the nozzle, lock the ring at the top of the coupler (maybe also use a collet clip?), then tighten the coupler to fully seat the tubing. If that doesn’t help, there are a few other things to try.

[@bradensinclair9517]

It’s all good now, seems to be working great. All i had to do was switch over to my 0.6 nozzle and clean out the heat sink thing, then i half unturned the nozzle before i put everything back together. Once it was back together I tightened the nozzle using the half turn that i left. I also marked the ptfe tube to make sure it was seating properly.

[@BV3D]

@@bradensinclair9517 Awesome! I'm glad it's all happy again!

[@lateexe1113]

the thermistor wont come out, what should i do?

[@Bassotronics]

👍🏻☺️👍🏻

[@DuchessOlivia]

Did you rise the top temp? On my ender 3 it won't go higher then 245 :/

[@stacyevans1360]

I just installed the all metal hot end in my Creality Ender 3 and cannot get it to print right. It under extrudes and then just quits. The feed just keep trying to push filament. I have tried hotter and colder that the stock head was printing PLA and no luck. Everything is tightened when hot and there are no leaks. I had a spare heater and thermister that I installed, Same result. Running stock firmware. Any ideas please. New brass and hardened steel nozzles were tried.

[@TwitcyTrain]

Hello, I just installed this on my ender3 pro and for some reason once it gets to 200 degrees the hot end starts lightly smoking. Barely any at all but is still worrying. I put the old one back and it was fine. Ordered a different all metal hot end (big tree tech) basically the same thing and it’s also smoking. I can’t find anything online about this. ANY help would be appreciated!