Micro Swiss Dual Gear Direct Drive Upgrade For Ender 3 and CR-10 3D Printers

[@ModBotArmy]

I have had a ton of people asking if this causes you to lose any Z height. I can confirm that the motor is over the X Axis extrusion which allows the printer to print at the max Z height without any problems at all! (No print volume is lost!) 😬

[@AGeekNamedRoss]

"You never go full z axis" 😬

[@peterjohnjoseph]

@@3warsGunsmithing If your asking if your printer will shut off going to higher temps, I doubt it. I upgraded to a Micro Swiss hot-end and I don't remember ever encountering an issue with the Firmware not letting me reach a high temperature. I guess I could be wrong on some models, but would be the first I've heard of it. The limitation is in how hot the materials in the stock hot end can get before melting. Not the firmware.

[@mikeb1596]

@@3warsGunsmithing as long as you set your max temp in firmware you are fine, set it 15c above your desired max temp(im guessing 300c) in case of temperature fluctuations. Make sure your thermistor and heater cartridge can handle the high temps as well, I had to upgrade my thermistor to reach 300c, as the stock glass bead thermistor on the Ender3 shouldn't go above 265 I think.

[@mikeb1596]

Does yours touch the x axis limiter switch before going past the bed? Mine is too narrow

[@RogerEberhart]

@@mikeb1596 They cover that in the install instructions. That is why you add offsets to your firmware: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/files/Leveling_probe_installed_with_generic_or_Creality_Marlin_Firmware.pdf

[@UncleDiddles]

Money inbound to you. I am a mechanical engineer, and when I opened this box of crap I literally shuddered...it was like the innerworkings of a swiss watch, and no tech manual/schematic in the box, almost gave me a stroke. But the link to your video was a godsend. Thank you for taking the time to make it. You sir, are a steely-eyed missile man.

[@ModBotArmy]

I just saw this after seeing my Patreon and thinking there must be a mistake. Thank you very much. This is certainly not something that is expected and I really do appreciate your generosity. I am happy that this video was able to help you with upgrading your printer. I will be reaching out to you on Patreon to see if I can send you some stickers! :)

[@dangerous8333]

Based on your reaction to what was inside the box. I don't believe you're an engineer at all.

[@UncleDiddles]

@@dangerous8333 Cool story bro

[@hippcity3168]

mechanical engineer my ass lmao, this is far from a difficult install and this video isn't even complete. For starters, it is pretty cringe he says "tighten as much as possible". Yeah that will certainly not cause some people to strip the soft aluminum threads with the steel bolt. The main bracket was beautifully machined, any real certified mechanical engineer with experience will appreciate this. Especially if you knew the machining costs. He even forgot some things, like installing the washer on the last wheel (one with the concentric nut) and the set screw on the gear is meant to be tightened against the flat part of the shaft. Which should be pretty obvious

[@UncleDiddles]

@@hippcity3168 what in the actual hell are you talking about? Machining costs? Have you never ran an aluminum part? This is day one shit. No internal features or contours, no complex geometry and standard surface finish. That part took 3 operations and cost about $7 to make at scale. And you want to comment on someone elses credentials. When you actually run a part maybe then open your mouth.

[@Starganderfish]

Thanks for this, really helped me a lot. I did get in a bit of strife when installing the new x-carriage. Didn't realise you'd flipped the machine around and were filming that section of the video from the rear. I installed it backwards, reattached the belt and the went to install the stepper and.. oooff. Had to disassemble, flip it around and re-do it all over again!!! Such fun.

[@itsmrjp113]

Same here! Built the thing twice, but thats OK

[@stevei7221]

Me too

[@TheMadcityguy]

I watched your video, bought the kit, watched your video again, installed the kit, easy peasy.

[@jiangxu3895]

Thanks for this great video,literally no rush or 5x in the speed. Every items got the chance to show up to let you easily identify them in the kit. In the process of assembling this, I felt the professionalism in the design of every items included in the kit. I've spent dozzens of dolars on some cheap diy kits made in China from Aliexpress before I came to know that Micro Swiss actually designed something really new that will kick the ass of others. Let's find out who is the real terminators. Once again, the lesson is learned. $100 excede the value contained in the kit, saving you tons of time in tweaking the cheaply made diy kits.

[@epicchris89]

Can you make a video how to set the Y and X offset?

[@mrkabonster]

Same

[@pattygq]

You figure this out yet?​@@mrkabonster

[@mrkabonster]

@@pattygq no I haven’t. I just moved my glass on the build plate like half a cm to the left to stop it printing the waste line off the build plate but I still don’t know what to do about the space I’m missing on the front of the build plate.

[@pattygq]

@@mrkabonster what fw are you running?

[@mrkabonster]

@@pattygq I don’t know. My printer is an old school Ender 3 but I did install a BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 Control Board like some 3 and a half years ago.

[@JohnDeaux]

IF YOU HAVE WARPING EDGES AFTER INSTALLING READ THIS! Just a hint for anyone searching for it. After installing the Microswiss hotend on my ender 3 pro I had to fight severe issues with warping on the print corners on the high side of the Y axis on the print(as in when you look at it from the front, the corners on the right side of the print). I had not been able to fix this properly, but since I installed my own marlin build after the microswiss upgrade to have the stepper settings etc on the default firmware already I spend half a week and 2 dozen prints on figuring this out. The best I have come to is raising the bed temperature to 80C and replace the warping with an elephants foot. Nice. I finally figured out that its the Micro-Swiss nozzle that causes the issue. After installing a stock creality 0.4mm nozzle, the same print went out with stock settings(PLA, 200C Hotend, 60C bed) with no problems. I have not been able to figure out why exactly the micro-swiss nozzle causes warping, but I also have to notice that I get a lot better printing quality on the creality nozzle for the same gcode. @ModBod, if you ever upgrade this guide, please add more emphasis on calibrating the e-steps as well. 130 as suggested by micro-swiss(as a starting point, sure but they kinda also dont put enough emphasis on that in their manual) wasnt enough in my case, 141 works a lot better

[@alwAudio]

I've just upgraded my CR10S with this direct drive and all metal hot end and it's brilliant, this video was a big help in conjunction with the official PDF instructions, thanks for taking the time to do this. For simplicity I've reverted from a fang-style cooling fan back to stock, without any obvious negative effects, although it's made me realise one of the reasons for doing that originally was the way better view of the nozzle when printing! Will have to look out for a fang version that works with this. Noticed the coupling between heater and hot end seems better too - temperature seems to come up much more rapidly and hold incredibly steadily.

[@MichaelBellini]

Thank you for this video, it was very helpful. However I noticed a few issues that you might want to address so folks do not get it wrong 1) You did not install the washer on the last wheel. The one with the concentric nut 2) The set screw on the gear is meant to be tightened against the flat part of the shaft

[@ryantoppin2404]

Lots of the Ender 3 steppers don't have a flat, the gear is friction fit.

[@AGeekNamedRoss]

There's a flat on the stepper motor shaft. Your grub screw should bear against that flat. In the video, it's off by about 10 degrees.

[@VictorRochaGaming]

Yep, I noticed that too.

[@janred94]

45? thats like a spot on 90! :P

[@TomFaigle]

@ModBot Daniel THANK YOU for this video. I have my first Ender 3 Pro that I bought last summer and have been modifying. The Microswiss all metal hotted and direct drive for it have been sitting. Well last week I decided to finally tackle it and after printing off the instructions decided that some of the steps weren't as clear as I'd like. So I did a search and was pleased to see your video on this. As I always like your videos I knew it would be very helpful. And I wasn't disappointed. So thank you for all you do and especially for this video. Now once I watch your video on adjusting the e-step (again) I can finally try printing with TPU. The goal is to print the tires for my Mr. Baddeley 3D printed R2D2.

[@thefeet]

BTW folks, this is an American Company and you get EVERYTHING. This is by far the BEST thing I ever did to my E3. Just DO IT! Don't even bother with the "knock offs"... you will experience missing hardware, terrible "tolerances"... these guys machine this shit like it's their "job".. jeez... ya think? WOW. TY Micro-Swiss!

[@dangerous8333]

Nonsense. These are such easy parts to make nothing you said (in this case) matters. I'm an engineer and metal fabricator. I sell my own products so I'm all about buying American made. But when you have items like this that are super easy to make and a company wants to charge a premium for it, I'm not having it. Tolerances? These are basic parts and I don't hear anybody complaining about the so-called "knockoffs" being out of tolerance. It's funny, people will scream and shout saying clone printers being just as good as the original, but yet try to convince us that this product has to be American made. Please... I was laughing as I was installing it. This is supposed to be an upgrade? The only thing I really wanted was the all metal hot end to print ASA. Once I started putting the rest of the kit together I realized how unnecessary it was. You're literally still using a Bowden tube, you're just putting the drive closer to the hot end. Is that necessary? We've been printing fine without it for years. You're also putting all the heaviest parts on the print head. Why in the hell would I want to do that! I'm returning my $100 kit and I'm going to buy a less expensive all metal hot end. I'll put that money I save to use somewhere else.

[@lkruzan]

I just installed it on my CR1-s-Pro. It was a snap to install and as a long time Titian user who wasn't too sure about a "Cylon" looking object on my printer - I am very impressed. The thought about upgrading a few more printers is causing my budget to ache, but it might be worth it. I'll know more in a hundred hours of use.

[@redheadsg1]

Some prints to show it off would be nice.

[@saltysteel3996]

You missed the flat washer on the eccentric nut for the bottom V roller wheel.

[@steelcrusher2922]

I will not lie it took me more lik 3-4 hour total to install xD tried to put a stepper motor dampener on the extruder but then u cannot slide it all the way to the left or right so had to disassemble and reassemble all over again, regardless because of your video I did not even have to open the pdf up and it has saved me (believe it or not) time so Thank you so so much for this video keep up the great work!

[@dimma718]

Perfect! Mines was shipped on the 16th, and I get the bonus of utilizing that free motor off my ender 3 pro and right onto my Tronxy, so I can now install the dual extruder I've been sitting on for 2 months!:-))!:-)

[@eloimis101]

You should put the grub screw on the flat side of the motor shaft ...

[@gizmobowen]

Very nice. I already have the Micros Swiss hot end so it's good to see that you can just buy the extruder and the mounting plate. I especially like that it looks like the stepper motor is over the x-axis so the weight is more centered on the guide wheels. I've always thought the plates with the motor hanging off the front had too much weight cantilevered off the front. I was thinking of getting the Hemera but then my existing motor and extruder would be redundant. This lets me use my existing parts and just buy the parts I need. Wish I had know about this before they were sold out. Hope they get more in stock soon.

[@ModBotArmy]

They sold out pretty much instantly. I do not think Micro Swiss realized how popular the item would be. I am sure they are working on getting these kits built and individual parts for existing micro swiss users.

[@nope638]

Did it,(cr-10) also did the Silent board/Dual z and Cr touch from stock..First time messing with any printer mods and it went fine..This video was one of the resources used….🤙

[@dustinmeier9753]

Easy enough. I hit pause a lot, but it was very informative. The routing of the Bowden tube from the new guide to the trolley was the only area in the video where I believe there could be improvement. But even then, a little common sense goes a long way (I didn't have an old Bowden tube to reinstall, I had to cut Capricorn tubing to length, so kind of a special case with no reference point). It's printing it's first part right now. Upgraded from 0.4mm to 0.6mm at install, and this is slinging some plastic! It's awesome!

[@d3w4yn3]

This is a GLORIOUS video!!! I was feeling a bit hesitant, even though I've replaced my extruder (this will be my fourth!) and other parts of the printer before... this made it really easy for me!!! Thank you!!!

[@LucaAlfredoSanzio]

One of the reasons to upgrade to all metal (direct drive) extruder is the ability to reach temperatures above 250°C to print PC and Nylon. My question is if - after this upgrade - the maximum extruder temperature remains limited to the original one or can be increased up to 280-300°C (either on CR-10 or Ender 3).

[@weld4200]

Need 2 flash ur firmware on ur printer

[@dangerous8333]

No. The reason to upgrade to an all-metal hot end is to do what you're saying. Direct drive has nothing to do with that. The rest of this kit is a gimmick. I bought it and returned it. Completely unnecessary. Hopefully you figured that out and just got a hot end instead of the kit.

[@RamjetX]

The quality of this part looks amazing.... however... other than flexibles... I'm not sure what the benefit would be? The base model Ender 3 with the defaults out of Cura 4.4.1 is just simply stunning. So long as you set the travels to a reasonable rate like 100mm/s and prints around 60mm/s. Retractions on the bowden to about 6.5mm @25mm/s. I've had no issues with stringing, blobs or anything. This thing is incredible value and quality. I own two other Direct Drive printers with Swiss all metal hotends.... and both have inferior print quality to the stock Ender 3. The extra weight of the motor has such a profound impact on print quality, I couldn't recommend it.

[@AlbertoMartinez765]

Pretty much, sometimes a lot of these "upgrades" feels more like Putting Cool Rims or a Spoiler on your Honda.....)

[@RamjetX]

@@AlbertoMartinez765 I've got cool rims on my Honda ...

[@BayuKebot]

I agree dude. Out of the box is better if you just concern about print quality not just cosmetic to make your printer looks tough. All i do to make better print (if it neccesarry) was changing linear advance,IF IT AINT BROKEN DONT FIX IT rules is applied for 3d print world.

[@mikeb1596]

If you want to print flexible and high temp materials you have to upgrade. I got bored with PLA since you can only do so much if you want functional parts. Nylonx and TPA open up a whole new world

[@hewittson69]

@@mikeb1596 recommend what upgrade is best for printing flexible? like a brand or part you can buy?

[@wrnrt]

Still useful in 2024. Thanks! Recommended other upgrades: dual Z-axis, auto board leveling (ABL, bltouch) and filament sensor.

[@mharshey111]

I have one coming from Tiny Machines. ( In stock as of 1/27) They made up an additioal kit to fit this to my CR10S Pro with BL Touch up grade and Micro Swiss hot end! Those guys are awsome. I'm use to direct drive, and lately have been fighting the retraction settings with the CR10 on some materials. (Most likely me...)

[@pigutxhighlights7749]

I ordered from them on thursday. Shipped yesterday. Sold out after my purchase so I may have gotten the last one.

[@gwillard19]

Great video, very helpful. One suggestion: never tighten small machine screws "as tight as you can". This can result in stripped threads, stripped hex drive, or broken screws.

[@JasperJanssen]

Especially grub screws! Those bastards are not strong. It needs to be tight enough for sure but not too tight.

[@RainbowCircus]

great video, but I have a quick question. Why do you have to install the old bowden tube to where the extruder used to be? Couldn't you just rotate the spool holder 90° and mount it in the middle and have the filament feed directly into the direct drive?

[@TheRealOHMEGA]

Yes.

[@hugofsky]

13:31 Hello! The video is really good and very detailed. Good job! But I was wondering if squeezing the cable of the cartridge and thermistor between the hotend and the cage it's a good solution. The cable will be bend 90 degrees and in contact with a very hot part. What do you think?

[@brawndo8726]

"You're 10-ply, bud. Give your nuts a tug." - Shoresy

[@markklenke]

Balls*

[@choochooelectric7381]

Correct me if i am blind, but you did not list the links to the extruder calibration write up and video you mentioned you would list....

[@joshpalmer7970]

What stepper motor is that in this video?? I noticed that in the micro-swiss PDF it's obvious that the shaft of the stepper motor sticks way out (see step 15 pics of the PDF) yet in your video the shaft is nearly flush with the extruder gear(@ 9:20 in your video). I just received this kit from micro-swiss and and am simply mocking up the kit without putting it on my machine and quickly noticed the difference using stock ender 3 pro parts,. I use the petsfang cooler and up until the point of pushing the stepper motor through the hole the only modification I've had to do to the petsfang was to widen the groove on the right side where the petsfang base grabs the carriage bracket and I simply did that with a razor knife. It seems everything was going to fit until the shaft of the stepper motor stuck way out and then gets in the way. I mocked up the micro-swiss extruder handle which fits even with the petsfang blower attached. If my stepper motors shaft wasn't too long then it would fit with no problem. But since mine protrudes like in the micro-swiss PDF it's in the way of where the fan would mount. TL;DR the shaft of the stepper motor in your video is shorter than the shaft of my stock ender 3 pro extruder stepper motor. Why?

[@joshpalmer7970]

The shaft on the stock ender 3 stepper motor is about 10mm too long.

[@AustinW_1]

My Z, X, and Y are all off now because of this, on the Ender 3 V2. Also have to print a new mount to put the fan on. Any video links on how to reset the "home" position to the correct area for this direct drive system?

[@dangerous8333]

I hope you just returned it. It's completely unnecessary and a waste of money. If you need to print higher temps just get an all-metal hot end. Why would you want all the weight on your print head anyway.

[@JoeValla]

belt needs to be a smidge longer after this mod, becouse different spacing(made it work on stock tentioner though), homing is now broken, not goten that far that I have found a fix yet(just mounted this thing), nozzle does not line up over the bed(pushed more forward), unsure if I feal cheated or not.......

[@alanjones4747]

Thanks for the video. New to printing. Been getting extrusion issues on and off so I got this upgrade for my Ender 3. Just arrived with an SKR board so will be busy upgrading, Again. Removing dampers too

[@rOSScOGITANS]

the weak point of all extruder, direct or bowden is the contact between gears and filament and this problem it's heavy on flexi filament, in my opinion should be designed a new kind of contact, for example like two metal ribbons , like the cogwheels of a tank, at least 5mm , each one in front of other pushing the filament , what do you think :)

[@orhanyor]

i have my ender 3 for a while and it prints very well. only upgrade i did was to put a foam board under it and installed PEI sheet which was only $7. i think ender 3 is a choice because its affordable and prints great for it price. i would dare say it prints as well as a $1000 printer if its tuned right.. but if i were to spend money on another mainboard, hot end, extruder, fans, tubes, bed etc.. for me it just defeats the purpose. i would rather get prusa mk3 instead of dealing and worrying about upgrades. great video tho im sure there are alot of people interested in this upgrade.

[@TheAkashicTraveller]

For me that's half the purpose of going for this one to begin with. An all metal hot end is definitly on the upgrade list for me because of the reliability issue and ptfe off gassing.

[@robertavery8897]

Wow ... totally CNC’d back plate. Nice.

[@mikeb1596]

Works great, but it overshoots on the x axis on the home side, bracket is slightly narrower than stock. Had to put several pieces of tape on the left side so it would contact the x home switch while still over the bed

[@ericramos9070]

Great video , very detailed. I have a question regarding the 130steps/mm for the microswiss DD as you stated. I know how to do the e step calibration like you showed in your other video but can you tell me where I would input or whatever you want to say it :) where do i check to make sure the Micorswiss DD is doing the 130steps/mm ike you said it needed. Please let me know. Thank you

[@ericramos9070]

bump

[@rkwiseman]

On my Ender 3 Pro, the extruder gear does not have an allen screw/bolt. Any idea on how to remove in order to install the micro swiss dual gear direct drive?

[@NetherWorldHobbies]

2 methods. Can get a small cutoff wheel on a dremel and cut it off, then you'd have to use a grind wheel to cut a flat spot on one of the shafts sides to mount the new grub screws. Other option is the one I went with and spent 16 bucks on amazon for a new step motor.

[@NetherWorldHobbies]

Plus now I have a spare step motor if I ever REALLY need one.

[@breaddrinker]

Many thanks.. Just finished. Just astounded at the quality of the manufacturing here. They're like high end motorcycle parts. I'm a fan. I bought batch 2 (as they sold out of the first lot) and there were a few additional screws included. I didn't have to re-use any of the bolts/screws or grub screws. They also provided a spare for everything losable. Very slick package.

[@ModBotArmy]

How awesome :) I have been loving mine! I just made a video on calibrating the steps for the extruded which will be live in a couple of weeks. Happy printing :)

[@breaddrinker]

​@@ModBotArmy I think that would be very helpful. I'll look forward to it. Mine was under-extruding by 35mm out of 100. :D Correcting this on my original CR10 gcode in Cura left it looking a tiny bit over-extruded, so I'm going to test run it at 30mm under. I believe micro Swiss tell you to start testing from 130mm, so I think I'm right on track with that.

[@breaddrinker]

@@ModBotArmy I've been having real issues printing above .2. At .125 I get some crazy textured crud printing that no setting changes seem to veer from. If you wanted to share settings, I think you could help a few people. Just tearing my hair out.. Prints great at .2, and some very odd stuff going on at any less. Microswiss is sending me a new one to try.. I would love to try out a working setting at .1 just to rule it out.

[@ripper9111]

@@breaddrinker Do you think it is hot end or extruder related? I really wanted to purchase this but after ready some of comments regarding problems some folks are having like yours for example, it makes me wonder if it is worth it.

[@JohnSmith-xl9bo]

I understand the non-standard Bowden collet allows the tube to move up and down allowing a clog?

[@baird1fa]

not to be nit picky, but you should align your set screw hole with the flat on the stepper motor shaft. If you don't the shaft could eventually spin free. But thanks so much for the assembly video, it was extremely helpful.

[@colinfielder6695]

I'm a bit late to the game but can't wait for it to arrive. Do you have an update on your Ender3?

[@WhamBamSystems]

nice explanation, and good to see it broken down. thanks

[@barrychapman1827]

I have same problem have you solved it?

[@jcritch42]

No before and after prints to see if it had any effect.

[@jessesheehan4051]

the effect will be you can print all kinds of filament i guess

[@Stashmanfpv]

I just received my micro Swiss direct drive and hotend system, but after reading many many reviews I'm now slightly hesitant too install, as I'm very new to the Hobby and I've heard many stories about having problems getting the nozzle centered in the middle of the bed and also about the stainless steel nozzle breaking off in the hot end and also having clogging issues... Is there anywhere where I can find some solutions to these problems? I purchased this to be able to print different filaments such as TPU and wood PLA, etc. The other reason I'm hesitant to install, besides the issues I mentioned above, is that my stock E3P has printed exceptionally well out of the box and I don't want to foul it up... I just need the option of printing other filaments. Thanks folks and I'm appreciative of any help towards addressing my questions above. Best! ✌🏼

[@cameronbasford8991]

Stashman FPV my E3 pro was printing perfectly until I installed the micro Swiss.

[@Stashmanfpv]

@@cameronbasford8991 that's kinda' what I'm afraid of. Hmm... What to do?

[@Skreamies]

Please please please can you upload a gcode? I'm having big issues right now, printing in the air, initial line of filament to clear is in the middle of the build place and then the print starts on top, i'm seriously lost right now

[@direhavok8732]

@ModBot on install PDF, section for adjusting "Origin Offsets" when they refer to leveling probe, is that refering to BLtouch?

[@Rsm583]

Yes

[@fluoxethine]

that meta circlip doesn't hold onto capricorn. I just don't use it. I wonder why they didn't mention using any gear grease. another less important issue is maybe lack of washer under tightening knob to avoid it grinding the lever

[@mjuarez808]

Following your guide unfortunately my stepper motor has the gear press for onto it. Which motor do I need to order?

[@3dtexan890]

Is that a 3D printed arm??? Sorry but I would not use a bowden tube to get the filament to the extruder. I would mount the reel to the top and feed it directly into the extruder, but that's me!!

[@ModBotArmy]

That is a great idea. If you have the height to work with.

[@SlavaChrome]

Stock filament reel stay on top.

[@ggholliday23]

Great video. Played this as I installed mine. Very helpful.

[@lipservicecrew]

what printer did you add it to ?

[@literate-aside]

I'm really wondering why you wouldn't use thermal compound for the heat interfaces to improve conductivity; heater, nozzle, heatsink etc Is it just not necessary? Surely it would improve performance...

[@randomdamian]

Thanks... Buying it :D I already bought the SKR 3 EZ bruh :D the upgrades cost me more than the printer dfuq

[@jessesheehan4051]

just installed it and it seems awesome so smooth

[@brianpartell5918]

Thanks for the video I ordered mine today. It was sorta like watching “ The Six Million Dollar Man “ just missing the.sound , nanananana nanananana but great video.

[@baodybag]

I would not have added the ptfe tube back on (from the old extruder with the 3d printed part) as thats one advantage of direct drive, no friction from ptfe tube. Other than that have you installed a bltouch on this? I just bought this for my sovol SV01 (basically a cr10 clone) and not sure where i can mount it now. replaced the part cooling duct and upgraded the fan so it has a custom shroud i printer for that to fit.

[@lorenzochapa8915]

should have mentioned how the fan shroud you originally had needed to be replaced with a ender 3 one because of the screw hole positions for those doing the mod on ender 3 style clones

[@altf4thc]

It seems like you would want to heat up the hotend before pushing the bowden tube in, right?

[@ryantoppin2404]

Any recommendations on Speed changes due to the increased weight of the print head? I'm especially having trouble finding recommendations for acceleration and jerk.

[@louiskatzclay]

I have not had any problems but have considered using anti-seize on my nozzles.

[@4n6psych]

I thought you were going to put a link in the desc. to calibrate and do esteps?

[@ModBotArmy]

I ended up deciding to make a video on it since I also needed to calibrate the esteps. It will be live in the next couple of weeks.

[@4n6psych]

@@ModBotArmy thanks man, I appreciate it. I followed your video and installed mine today and I'm working on estep's and retraction so that I can get back to printing.

[@stevei7221]

Hey there. Followed this step by step. Went to test it on a file that worked previously on my older Cr10s5, and...nothing. Bed and nozzle get up to heat temp...and nothing. Print won't start. Just says "heating...(even tho it's at temp.)

[@juergenjaeger5814]

Hi! Awesone Video! Thanks for that. Have a question. If I already have the dual gear extruder and the all metal hotend, can I use this to upgrade to direct drive?

[@HolyBlackJezus]

can you feed the filament straight into the motor and skip the whole feed thing on the side? seem to me that adding and extra tube in 1 more thing that can go wrong so is it possible to remove it all

[@thosebrownboxes6736]

So I have an interesting problem. When assembling the heating block, I found that the combined thread length of the heatbreak and nozzle is longer than the height of the block, meaning that I can’t screw in either piece completely. Is this a problem, or will I be able to get away with it if I tighten them enough. This is the hotend that came with the direct drive kit, not my previously owned hotend.

[@NightBlade58]

Can you tell me what size are the acres that’s you replaced with Phillips? The 2 screws that you used to mount the heat break. I’d like to make them Phillips for my rig 2 as my screws are stripping and I can’t get them right.

[@biggboysouth]

Just some feedback, you should have a section at the beginning of you video that clearly states all of the software, tools and procedures you will have to do/use during and after installation to be able to utilize this product. Like a dumby I watched this video while working and missed some key info like needing to download additional software, purchase more tools and white filiment just to be able to use my (from microswiss) "No modification required, simple plug and play" item and went a head and bought the kit thinking i'd be printing in a couple hours. Microswiss also does not state anywhere besides install instructions that you will need to modify gcode and measure filament extrusion. Personally think that is a very important bit of info that would have swayed me to just getting the metal hot end vs this entire kit.

[@ThoresbyVale]

Hi I just got my kit for the ender3 pro will I need to change ant offsets in my firmware at all ?

[@atomicfx6885]

I’m having a large issue I got the older model of the micro Swiss direct drive extruder and the stepper motor won’t clear the frame on the x axis or z axis

[@3rutu5]

So does microswiss have the g code for the esteps like you showed in the ender 5 video like this?

[@ModBotArmy]

They sure do! Here is the PDF (It is towards the bottom): cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/files/Micro_Swiss_Direct_Drive_Extruder_Installation_Instructions.pdf?v=1592671102

[@3rutu5]

@@ModBotArmy awesome, I've been umm'ing and arrrr'ing on if I wanted to spend similar to the initial purchase price of my ender 3 of this upgrade. Especially wanted to make 100% sure it's a performance upgrade worth doing

[@Itsdirtnaptime]

I have watched this a couple times, and I am going to watch it again. But 2 years after having this on my printer, I still have NOT had 1 successful print. I tried everything that was suggested. Maybe I am missing something. (I machine and assemble machinery for a job. I really don't feel it is a me problem.) This is the biggest waste of money. I had to go back to the original nozzle. Works just fine. Same filament that fails with the MS Direct Drive, does NOT fail with the factory Ender 3 Pro printer. I had such bad luck with this, I am still not ready to buy the Ender direct drive kit.

[@dwaynejohnson2882]

How much does this reduce your printable height by?

[@soloked]

I was curious about this myself

[@ModBotArmy]

I just checked and was able to lift the gantry the entire way to the top so no height is lost!

[@brianseaders]

The grub screw is not on the flat part of the extruder mother shaft?

[@leebannister3759]

Tried to come up with a reason, but my brain no work right now ( ha ha). What is the advantage to relocating the Extruder stepper motor from the side to the middle above the hotend?

[@miles13242]

Thanks for the video, i've been looking for a video one this kit. Should be a solid alternative to the Hermera. Please keep us updated on how it prints.

[@JDMsohc]

Not sure if you still pay attention to this or not, but if you could make a video on adjusting the x and y offset after installing the MSDD kit, that'd be awesome!

[@cephorrd]

I had this same problem, we’re you able to fix it?

[@JDMsohc]

@@cephorrd www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=download.bastelgarage.ch/Produkte/421381_setting_the_home_offset.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiS7MH5_qX7AhWmQjABHewDDN0QFnoECBYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3_gXCiyoUNmujhCZrxQbOe

[@cephorrd]

@@JDMsohc I tried putting this in my starting gcode is that all I'm supposed to do? I tried and it doesn't work.

[@JDMsohc]

@@cephorrd are you using a BL touch?

[@cephorrd]

@@JDMsohc no, I cant seem to figure out whats wrong

[@drumprince91]

Awesome tutorial, thanks man!

[@breaddrinker]

The orientation of the stepper side gear.. I've tried it both ways and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Is there a direction to the knurling on the piece? Either way, I currently have it on back to front, because it's just the last placement I tried, and just finished printing 60 hours of parts for a mask, so I guess it works.. They stress an orientation but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

[@mr.spongylikeaboss4987]

I am unable to use my max height. My bowden guide tube at the top of the extruder hits the frame and bends enough to cause the filament to snag and skip in the tube. I am using capricorn tube which is pretty stiff, and does not like to bend. The closer the guide tube gets to the top, it hits the cross rail of the gantry, bending more and more. I've lost about 35mm in build height.

[@brustertootwopointo4644]

Why use the bracket and bowden tube at all. Shouldn't direct drive be just that, direct drive? As in straight from spool down into extruder gears. Am I missing something?

[@jessesheehan4051]

prusa uses a tiny ptfe tube too

[@brustertootwopointo4644]

@@jessesheehan4051 Yes, I noticed that, which makes sense to keep the tube short. It just seems like the Micro Swiss version is too much. Adding back into the equation what you are trying to do away with in the first place. I just installed mine so I'm going to try it both ways and see if it makes a difference. It probably won't since the extruder gears are just above the hot end but there could possibly be issues with retraction if the tube is suffering from severe wear. Then again, maybe not. (shrug)

[@mr.spongylikeaboss4987]

@@brustertootwopointo4644 If you are using a high quality stiff bowden guide tube, it will start to hit the frame. I use Capricorn Tube and I'm having this problem. I've lost over 30mm of build height. I'm probably going to go back to just bowden setup, as I can't afford to loose build volume on such a tiny printer. I may put the thing on an Ender 5, since nothing will get in the way.

[@brustertootwopointo4644]

@@mr.spongylikeaboss4987 I was planning to use my Capricorn tube as well. Just a short length from the top of the extruder and run the filament straight down from the top of the frame. Haven't done that yet but that was the plan.

[@StephenGinman]

aren't you gonna have lesser Z axis height because of the E stepper motor on top of the carriage?

[@calciumchloride]

I suppose the bowden tube from Z-axis to the new extruder is unneeded. Because it is too troublesome to remove shorten filament when that will run out.

[@remthompson]

I was thinking the same thing. I mean I could see putting it in with a centimeter or two extra, but If I do a direct drive mod I don't exactly want all that bowden tube still mucking about

[@robertconklin3322]

Is it the heater block temperature sensor a thermistor? I believe it is a k type thermocouple.

[@erkmyers]

My biggest question is why would I want to upgrade to this? What benefits would I gain?

[@ModBotArmy]

Alot of people like direct drive, a lot of people want all metal, alot of people want dual gear driven. Basically allows you to print with a huge range of materials all the way up to Polycarbonate. You can also print with abrasives and very flexible materials. The narrow filament path makes it much easier to print with flexibles than say a bowden setup. The dual gear ensures that you do not run into under extrusion issues from filament slipping

[@cobravenomX1]

JUST TO LOOK PRETTY

[@strayblackcatsmeow]

Just bought this kit. Even on sale it is more than twice the price of a creality Ender 3 direct drive plus Bowden complete unit with servo and ALL mounting hardware. $33 shipped from China. I will need to buy another just for the parts to make this one work. As it is, you still can't print with abrasive filament as you must still buy the hardened steel nozzle ~ $20 more. That will fit on the creality as well. It's max temp is still 260C unless you get a hotter ceramic element and I have yet to find Ender 3 compatibility data on any yet. With Capricorn the creality can do that too. I bought this with the intent of high temp printing but the still remaining 260C limit won't cut it. I too prefer upgrades over embellishments. If they included the actual high temp heater, then I might call it an upgrade.

[@strayblackcatsmeow]

Just got my micro-swiss, the combo set was on sale for the price of the hot end. You have to "tweek" your firmware to get higher temps and home your tip. You also have to adjust feed and retraction values. I found that capricorn generates toxic gas at high temps so an all metal is needed. Still I am now limited by the magnetic bed and the micro-swiss hot end has a 300C design limit. I found that the copper head hot end should fit the cooling fins and up my limit to 450C with thier 50W heater and cartridge thermister. I still need a bed upgrade to get past the 80C magnetic bed limit but I don't want to just lose the magnetic bed that's great for PLA. Can't test mine until I build a boot loader and learn some Marlin but I like the quality of the set. So far I believe the micro swiss is a plus but I am adding a sockets and plugs to allow option changes as all have some benefits.

[@syberphish]

After melting the ptfe tube into the stock hotend printing petg, i upgraded to the all-metal with capricorn tube and it's never been a problem since. The direct drive feed is more accurate, and you just can't print flexibles well with a bowden. Some people *can*, but it's really not optimal. If you don't need it and everything is going just fine for you, then it doesn't matter. I just reached the point where my stock stuff wasn't able to continue doing what I wanted to do, so I upgraded. LOVE IT.

[@Jynxx_13]

I just noticed that you didn't put the grub screws on the flat part of the motor shaft. You should always do this when there is a flat spot available. Just FYI

[@TikiToyLabs]

Did you have to adjust the VREF of the x stepper to account for the extra weight of the head? Mine is losing steps all over the place.

[@rackstargaming8131]

Should have shown how to set up the firmware, as I am having a huge difficult time getting my nozzle centered to the bed...

[@PastorTFS]

Did you ever find a fix for this? I’m in the same boat right now!!!

[@rackstargaming8131]

@@PastorTFS I did, but it was a combination of things. I installed this on a totally modded CR10S5. Control board, leveling sensor, the works. I would have to look what I did up and wouldn't be able to get to it till tomorrow when I get to my shop...

[@rackstargaming8131]

@@PastorTFS I changed Manual_X_POS to -5 and Manual_Y_POS to -7. And set my BLTouch offset. Thats what worked for me...

[@PastorTFS]

@@rackstargaming8131 thats awesome my problem is that I don’t know how to do that so that it stays each time I print like a stock machine homes

[@rackstargaming8131]

@@PastorTFS yeah, I had to build a custom version of Marlin because I did so many different mods...you could get someone to build you a custom version or learn how to... plenty of videos out there, some real good ones by Teaching Tech...

[@weld4200]

Son on a cr10 pro .the stepper motor is what you use for the direct drive or do i need to buy another one ..please reply . im stuck at the most basic of questions

[@sillywwabbit]

I went from a Titan Extruder/Bowden setup to this Micro Swiss DD and it is one of the best upgrades that I have made for my CR10S-S4. I already had a Micro Swiss All metal hotend that was still in the box (purchased a couple of years ago and never installed) so I only needed the kit without the hotend which was on sale for $35. I purchased a LDO NEMA 17 Slim Power Stepper Pancake Motor 0.9 Degree to use with this upgrade. Because it is 0.9 degree, you have to double the normal e-Steps/mm. In the end, after tuning, I ended up with 270 e-steps/mm. That little stepper has plenty of torque and barely gets warm even in multiple hour prints. Because this set up is so light, you can still print at higher speeds without major ringing artifacts (though defiantly slightly more than with a bowden setup). This upgrade is definitely worth the cost and time (about 1hr).

[@tjpresley5197]

Installed last night...looks like the dimensions on the mounting plate or positioning is different than stock because the X,Y,Z axis are all off now. The new mounting plate hits the end stops at different positions so the nozzle hangs over the buildplate edge in both directions when you auto home. Did yours have this same issue? Going to contact Micro Swiss because this is advertised as a "direct bolt in" and it looks like I'm going to have to update the firmware now as well.

[@Pierre845]

Have the same problem and need help

[@macgyver3944]

Yep same here just installed 2 of these kits on a CR10 & CR10S both have the same problem!

[@christoskaragiannis7973]

Hey, i'm about to install it and should have the same problem. How did you end up solving it?

[@RJV3D]

Hello, I hope my comment will reach you. I’m having issues when I print with my direct drive using PrusaSlicers, but not with CURA. What setting am I missing? I hope you can help me. Thank you.

[@DS-ft5dt]

How does this effect the inertia for the movement on the X/Y axis? more weight, harder to stop start...

[@Samuel-km5yf]

I wondered the same thing. Y shouldn’t be affected but seems to me that the X motor now has significantly more mass to rapidly move around.

[@tormodhag6824]

It means you have to turn down acceleration due to the increased momentum. This is the only real con to this setup

[@adrianchorlton138]

This video was incredibly helpful and well put together. Thanks. The only area I struggled with was installing the filament guide on my Ender 5 Pro as it is in a different place. I would also note that I had to buy new Capricorn tubing as it was impossible to remove it without damaging it. One question - do I need to change my slicer settings to accommodate the Micro Swiss?

[@simangamlondo3305]

My CR-6SE printer is experiencing air extrusion, the filament is not coming out, I need help it's only 10 days old, the only thing I was able to print out on my first print was only a layer of skirt and after, the filament never comes out

[@Phil-D83]

I am a fan of the trianglelabs all metal e3d V6 gold and BMG clones for my printers.

[@ModBotArmy]

Is there something special about the gold? Or is it just anodized but the same as the standard v6?

[@Phil-D83]

@@ModBotArmy seems to be some type of coating. Works rather well, and I am not sure if it is due to the coating or not.

[@arglebargle82]

Have mine installed and cannot get rid of the carriage wiggle. Everything is as tight as it possibly can be, and the carriage still rocks a good bit. Not sure if this is normal or not.

[@hansdewyse1361]

Did you try turning the eccentric nut on the lower wheel?

[@arglebargle82]

@@hansdewyse1361 I've tightened that up, and now X will not move at all, so I loosen it and get the carriage wobble and X still doesn't like to move properly. I've loosened it as much as can be, massive carriage wobble, no movement on X. Start tightening and no matter how tight I go (all the way to full tightness so no wobble), X will move partially closer to home, the further it gets from home it starts skipping and finally just stops all movement. Losing my mind over here trying to figure out how to get this thing working without undoing the entire project and going back to bowden tube extrusion.

[@hansdewyse1361]

@@arglebargle82 I honestly don't know then, sorry

[@arglebargle82]

@@hansdewyse1361 No worries, I've been messing with it for a while now and no resolution. If I could find an X gantry to swap the one I have with I would, I'm thinking maybe it's sagging on that side but I can't tell just by looking at it.

[@hodanotyoda]

how come no one mentioned that you need to adjust the extruder motor to "invert = false" in order to have the correct direction of load and unload?