How to Install Wood Mount Pickups

Here's is my preferred method for mounting humbuckers in Warmoth's "wood mount" pickups routs.

[@CaevanOShite]

Before drilling-out the screw-holes in the pickup-feet, I'd recommend completely masking off the pickup with low-tack painter's tape so that any tiny metal fragments can NOT get into the coils or stick to the pickup magnets.

[@Dusty-Shades]

good point thanks for bringing that up.

[@j.w9285]

Very detailed. Great idea

[@douglasbailly8519]

I have no intention of doing this kind of pickup mounting. I just like hanging out with Aaron.

[@oqsy]

Female threaded inserts pressed into the drilled holes in the wood might be more stable long term if one intends to have adjustable pickup height, and you can get them to match the hole in the pickup feet so you don’t have to drill them out.

[@djoDadof2]

Exactly what I've done. Finding inserts the right size (one for humbuckers, one for single coils because the screws are different) was a massive PITA. But now I have enough for 20 guitars so it's a solved problem for me. I also ground the threads off the screws near the head so the pickup floats on the screws when they are threaded through. Also don't have to mod the pickups this way.

[@elbischoff]

@@djoDadof2 where did you purchase the inserts?

[@xav73410]

Sure! I did it to every guitar who I have!

[@ArizonaMudKat]

@@djoDadof2 Any word on where we can get these inserts?

[@russellzauner]

PEAVEY did that on a lot of instruments - esp necks. Inserts = good, to me. If I am going to adjust and modify things, eventually wood screws are going tear up the mounts and they aren't super tweakable either. If I move one 1/4 turn, the other one isn't going to bite the same way and I am stuck eyeballing it/doing it by feels.

[@andresilva8444]

Oh! Love the sound effect of the foam sticking to the pickup. You should sound effect more often. 😂🤣😂🤣

[@TelesPlayMetal]

Again Aaron, thank you for the daily videos. I think we all agree that Warmoth needs to post more videos, and you are giving us all something to look forward to every day now. You’re pretty awesome man!

[@kesamek8537]

You're right a video comparing the methods would be really good. Thanks again, great info.

[@ccchicken8889]

Aaron these vids have been great. Thanks a ton!!

[@GreatWhiteLionSnake]

I know it's not normal, but I like using the single coil mounting springs instead of the foam for humbuckers. (Stewmac has them cheap) You get flexibility, and little to no wobble (depending on how well routed pickup holes are). You never have to worry about the foam wearing out. And it doesn't ever interfere with pickup wire like foam occasionally can do. Clean and fast

[@Thirdgen83]

That's what I do too.

[@biljettertjugotolv104]

@@Thirdgen83 I'm using foam, and springs.

[@Omega-Ignition]

God, that guitar body is gorgeous!

[@curbowman]

The late Greg Curbow had an unique method for his USA-made basses. His custom Bartolini pickups had no visible adjustment screws... because they were adjusted from the rear of the bass!

[@cbr8206]

Awesome. Thanks Aaron. Great vid. Very informative. There are so many steps in guitar assembly where you have to get it right the first time. This was a good example of that. Thanks!

[@auchustos]

The Cars - Just What I Needed

[@russellzauner]

I've been working on tuned mass ideas as well as exploiting my experience in technology development and qualification testing to not only improve coupling/regenerative feedback to pickups directly but also allow the player to control the mix by either modifying the actual quality of the coupling or using attenuation to roll off the regeneration that the coupling elements are blending in. Lots of stuff - several new pickup/amp/microphone designs... Well, you said you wanted to hear it. I've got a lot more. :-) I spent 25+ years doing all kinds of stuff being a technician in the Silicon Forest for companies that don't exist any more until I got hurt and they made me not exist any more. ;-) I'm finally in a permanent location and getting settled - my shop/lab/studio is 20% of what I have in storage right now, waiting to come out, and laundry lists of things that are going to take me probably a few weeks just to get the ordering done. Of course, I am not rich nor do I have any income...so now, instead of doing the impossible, forever, with nothing, for OTHER people, now, I hope that my abilities to do the impossible forever with nothing will allow me to flourish, once the agony can get pushed back down to a level where I can complete longer thoughts again. Patience. You're probably going to live a lot longer than you thought, even in light of today's events...when I found out Warmoth was in WA, I just wanted to go see it lol and I still intend to if they will show people around.

[@hchoe741]

I like to use foam, as well as springs in the mounting screws. Keeps the pickups extra firm with no wiggle.

[@johncbeer]

That foam seems to have the versatility of duct tape...Thanks for showing us the different uses!

[@theguitaruss]

Thank you for this- I have been going round and round and I realized after watching this that I need to drill out my holes in my pickup feet

[@topfloorstudio2684]

I agree with you 100% and thank you for doing this tutorial! I admire you for saying you hear differences in mounting pickups. I crack up everytime that "anti-tonewood" guy (who also inherently thinks putting pickups in mid air doesn't change their sound) chimes in and says the pickups sound like the pickups no matter what you mount them in. Good for you Aaron, good for you.

[@lone-wolf-1]

I‘m mesmerized by the beauty of that top!😍

[@Chris_Porro_Land_o_Naps]

would love to hear that mounting test. one of my favorite things about Aarons videos is the science. ok, maybe not exactly textbook science but some of the best "guitar science" i've seen out there. totally useful imo. i've wondered about how mounting may effect sound since i replaced my strat's pickups in the 90s. had no idea they were just suspended from a thick bit of plastic until that moment.

[@lexzbuddy]

I use some expanded foam, not the same stuff as in your video but the same idea. I modify the pickup by bending the pickup tabs inwards too. It allows for a smaller cavity. It's not normal but I like doing it that way. I do something similar to guitars that have active pickups and just mod things to make things work. I'm actually an Engineer and it helps a lot when doing strange and unusual things. Everything can be changed or modified but I try to modify the new part going in and do as little or no modification to the guitar itself in an attempt to keep it original, thus relatively easy to put it back to stock condition. It can be a challenge but for me it's a hobby so, I'm happy to do things that just would not make sense if you were doing this sort of work to make a living. Good video and for the record, the foam method is really the best. Unless there is something weird or unique, I'd suggest folks go the same way you would. Good video, thanks.

[@strumminronin]

That green burst body is just stunning!

[@oakworm5526]

I just did an installation similar to this on an Ibanez Iron Label S series. They actually used two foam pads. Each pad had a hole drilled in it, and there was a spring in the holes. I thought it was a pretty neat set up.

[@CaevanOShite]

A prick-punch is a VERY effective tool to use to mark location for drilling screw-holes; and very accurate, as the point is machined to a conical taper to best center the location for the hole you're about to drill. A little tap and there's your mark exactly where you want it centered. To make sure that the drill doesn't drift from center while you're drilling, use Brad Point drill bits, and start with a very small drill-bit to drill the pilot hole, then graduate up in drill-bit sizes until you reach the required diameter for the threads (sometimes, *maybe* just a *little* bigger than the minor diameter of the screw-threads for cases where you want to be extra careful not to crack or split wood). Use some masking-tape wrapped around the drill-bit to mark the max depth that you want to drill to, or a depth-stop, so that you won't drill out the other side! Also consider "surgical tubing" for a vintage-style alternative to springs and foam.

[@pulkitdesai4094]

You're the best! Great info as usual.

[@elbischoff]

Thanks Aaron. Very helpful info for my build.

[@normfpv1104]

Excellent tutorial, great explanations. Liked and subscribed. Thank you.

[@russellzauner]

I think I just solved an experimental problem I had with moving parts and tight coupling between the pickup and body... two sideways sliding wedges/shims UNDER the pickup that can be adjusted with a hex set type screw through the center and in the middle, so you put the hex key in the hole and use it sort of like a little internal turnbuckle to draw or separate the wedges, raising and lowering the pickup in a very precise way. My problem was that getting your mechanical coupling down so your transmission is not only even but not damped or causing ringing/other unwanted signal noise/shaping leads to a LOT more little mechanical parts when most people, me included, just want to screw the thing on and get to playing. So the sliding wedges allow for two flat surfaces to go against the guitar and the pickup plate, thereby maintaining the integrity of the mechanical coupling at a high level but reducing the parts to a couple of the simplest machines in physics - the inclined plane. :-) Could also surround them with two metal brackets that then have threaded studs that draw them closer/apart like you might see on a casing of a transformer (the ones that actually screw the housings together instead of spot weld single use disposable can't rebuild it easily type), then the two shims/wedges could literally be the same part but one is flipped over with respect to the other, creating the two flat, parallel surfaces. lots of ways that could be managed...

[@nellawell4976]

Aaron, when I herd about (body mounting) a long time ago that's just what I did, Drilled out the hole, skinny wood screw with the spring between the body & foot but you have to be VERY careful!

[@edwardbateman3957]

Hey Aaron love these vids, could you do something on neck finishes? It would be cool to hear your thoughts on those especially on roasted maple. Thanks again very informational.

[@curlzwalk]

Nice video, you can learn a lot here!

[@louderthangod]

The foam thing has always worked well for me. Take a few tries to really lock it in but once I find a good height, I don't really change it.

[@shaunw9270]

Loving these videos 👍

[@kennygardner5041]

Used that idea on my ‘66 Jazzmaster a long time ago to get the bridge pickup to the right height.

[@curbowman]

Atlansia doesn't use springs or foam to stabilize the pickups. Instead, they use two normal threaded screws and two REVERSE threaded screws, one on each side. This way they have two screws pushing the pickup into the cavity while the other pair is pulling it out. These push / pull forces actually fixes the pickup in place, perfectly stable, without springs or foam.

[@TheFelineEmpire]

Weather strip works too. I also use the springs so if the foam gets weird I can still adjust. Trimming the neck pickup spring is usually a good idea as that particular pickup will probably be positioned deeper into the body. A shorter spring won’t get fully compressed before you get the pickup where you want it.

[@jaricklosey4607]

TheFelineEmpire +1 for weather stripping. I got a huge roll for $10 for my ASAT Special which mounts using the exact same size and material foam.

[@CoffeeDrinker71]

Very good info! Thanks Aaron!

[@wallyg3]

Great info, thanks! I've been wondering how that works.

[@michaeldrevyankosr6180]

Arron, excellent tip 👌🎸

[@juyanine]

thank you 🙏🙏🙏 finally I got to understand how does p90's grip work

[@joeyvanostrand3655]

I have an old Ibanez rg7620. I used a strip of 1" thick foam underneath the pickup to raise it up.

[@An2oine]

I use guitar picks or maple veneer to make spacers to set the height. Also when you make your pilot hole marks, do it before you put on the foam.

[@iharjula]

That kind of comparison would be interesting!

Hi! I have a question. My direct mount bridge pickup move it itself sometimes (twice a week, its so interesting). It always raises. I do not know why. It's a new guitar. I did just raise the pickups after i buy it. How can I solve it, do you know? I need help.

[@BAJARACER43X]

FU (Floyd Upgrade) tone has a killer system to direct mount any pick up to any guitar, even with pick up rings

[@jayteesgear]

Just sub’d. Ive worked a few ways around this (dir mount is more aesthetically pleasing to me) and i agree the foam is a necessity. I’ll also try the Tele screws. Way cool vid

[@jeromestephenball]

Great video! For the pickup mounting foam from StewMac, would you select the long thin (for jazz bass) or short wide (for p bass)? I’m installing EVH humbuckers in my Warmoth Strat body…

[@demonicsquid7217]

Been using threaded inserts. No foam needed and no wear on screw holes if you adjust the pickups often.

[@windsurfmaui8239]

Any opinion on Hipshot locking tuners? I have an unused Maple one piece Warmoth Strat neck that I may sell eventually because I didn't get stainless frets when I bought it. So I thought I would use the drill-less Hipshot tuners so I wouldn't be drilling holes in the headstock to make it more attractive to the next owner.

[@Zakkrifice]

Hey guys, i managed to wood mount a pickup using the P90-screws that warmoth offers. They juuust fit through the Humbucker screw hole without the need to drill out the thread. The are meant to be used in wood and are relatively long. So that checks out.

[@gkol69]

Pickups sound brighter when they are hanging from a ring or pickguard than when they are wood mount? Maybe because of the void underneath that works like a sound chamber or the pickup vibrates. What if you put some foam under the pickup to fill the void like a lot of players do? (I want to try it)

[@lewisg624]

What wood/finish is the body? Looking to build a similar contrast with natural wood back and colored top. Some of the roasted options on the website seem darker than this guitar. Thanks!

[@michaelkennedy1117]

Hey Aaron Another great guitar tip! Thanks again for all your daily vids. I'll be glad when WARMOTH is open for business again I a spent my 1,200 stimulus money at WARMOTH body,neck and hardware. Money well spent. Thanks Uncle Sam! Be kind wash your hands and if your able to spend your stimulus money at WARMOTH!!😅🇺🇸

[@eljonnymac]

Awesome videos! Any advice for drilling tremolo holes on a strat body? Also I always saw your ad in guitar world growing up and now I live in Washington like 20 miles from your shop!

[@siripatra2277]

Does anyone know if I can do any mods for this problem : I accidentally bought the traditional mount body (it has the wells) but I dont want to use pickup rings. I have custom pickups and they already have integrated rings. Is there any way I can wood mount my pickups in this situation? Thank you so much in advance.

[@VacantCityDrifters]

Hi Aaron - thanks for these videos. Quick question: does warmoth sell a 12 string, 24.75" scale neck?

[@jamesphifer9935]

Very helpful. Thanks

[@moretrio]

Hey Aaron, What is the ideal length of the screws? trying to figure out which screws I should buy. Thanks, I am trying to mount single coils btw.

[@DarioRubilovic]

Ibanez has similar system, they put two, fairly wide but not to tall, springs under the pickup.

[@Amber57499]

That's a great looking body... Are all your necks compatible with every single body? Regarding string height for the bridge, etc. And is a fret leveling job required? I might get one of these Harley Benton guitar kits to practice with, then build a great guitar using your pieces.

[@bubienguitars]

I am building new instruments and am going to do this method to mount my pickups, the only difference is that I will use the regular humbucker screws shortened and tapered to a point at the end to help find the hole when installing.

[@thegorgon3168]

I thought there would be some kind of fancy washers or something mounted to the wood but it's just drilled right into the wood. Anyway I don't think there would possibly be any diffrence between the 2 ways of mounting, because it wouldn't affect the way strings vibrate at all.

[@heliosthelightningwolf1778]

Great video. Im on your page atm and was confused to how i would mount my pickups to the body and still be able too ajust them. i assume this also works for single coil pickups?

[@DBSG1976]

Is your Daphne Blue and Surf Green finishes comparable to Fender? Other guitar makers like Nashguitars have a too dark DB and a very light Surf Green, thanks for the vids! On your website both finishes appear to be perfect (your Soloist is beautiful).

[@josemaricinco4642]

What if the pickups has nickel cover? And What is the right size for it?

[@projectmonk9673]

How far down do you drill in order to put in the screws???? You never mentioned it......

[@GuitarJeff]

Here is a question for you if you get time or looking for topics still. This video really reminded me of it. Shielding. So I have noticed none of the sample or examples have shielding in pickup cavities or control cavities. Do you not recommended that anymore? If so do you prefer the paint or the copper tape?

[@RavenMadd9]

is there a video for strat pickups top mounting ?

[@theorncampbell4432]

Well that was 5:40 second well spent! My guitar is going to look about 1,000 times better and with a deeper tone to boot! Thanks for sharing this little treat of a tip with us mortals!

[@HeavyInstinct]

Great idea for a video Aaron. My problem with this method is that I find pickups have a tendency to want to tip to one side or the other and don't sit parallel to the strings the way they're supposed to. This might be fine with single coil pickups but with humbuckers it means that one coil is sitting closer to the strings than the other. I've been trying to figure out a method that alleviates this problem. I've been thinking about installing two strips of foam lengthwise along each side of the pickup cavity (instead of one directly under the pick up) and then putting some kind of brace like maybe a couple of thin wooden strips across the bottom side of the pickup cut to a length that's just shy of the width of the pickup route. This should create equal pressure along the length of each side of the pickup and hopefully cause it to sit square to the body. Has anybody else had this problem? I would love to hear some other ideas.

[@Eric_S]

Good idea with the foam. Even for ring mount the foam would hold even pressure to keep the pickup. Another thing to consider is to use surgical rubber tube that is firmer than metal springs.

[@lone-wolf-1]

Here’s how I did: I replaced the springs on all guitars with silicone tubes (outer diam. 5mm, inner diam. 3mm, on ebay 1m for few bucks) for no buzz or interaction with the pickups. Before replacing I measured the adjusted height on every pickup and cut the tubes about 4 mm longer. Make sure to cut the tubes square for not tilt action. Under the pickups a piece of middle soft foam the same dimensions as the baseplate between the feet of the pup, but with a cut out for the wire. Otherwise the wire pushes the pup at an angle. The foam thickness chosen according to the space at almost max pickup height (pup touching strings), and softer then the force of the two compressed tubes/springs. Sometimes you need to cut the foam lower with scissors, sometimes you need to add a thin piece...no need for glue. If the foam is too stiff or to high, the pup gets pushed out together with the adjusting screws. In this case you could cut out with scissors stripes across the foam like on a big comb to reduce pressure and stiffness. Cheers

[@luketanner7638]

What about using two strips of foam to evenly support the pickup?

[@michaelluckett9436]

want burstbucker pros in a tele body... can I wood mount???

[@edesbalazs]

These are very educational. I was wondering, wouldn't springs between the wood you are mounting to and the bottom of the feet of the pickup work? That way the spring would ensure that the bottom of the screw and the top of the feet are tight together, but you could still freely adjust the height?

[@windsurfmaui8239]

Yes I use a cut up painters spong and I add a spring to each side so I can adjust the pick up to the exact height I need.

[@warmoth]

Using springs only make the pickup top-heavy and it constantly want to tip one way or the other. Foam underneath gives it a base to sit on.

[@windsurfmaui8239]

I use a sponge and springs so I can make one side a little closer to the strings if I want. But I have become a fan of front mounted pickguards so I can remove the whole set up and drop in a totally different set up at will. Much easier in the long run.

[@littlerichieny]

Good info! Tks

[@KCsabi]

I'm still looking for a method to not destroy the pickup base thread!

[@ch4os82]

I really wanted a wood mount on my warmoth body but ends up getting pickup ring 😅. Easier and simpler to change pickups if I ever wanted to

[@timothyadkins8997]

I would think the sound quality is more important. What if you never change them and you have worse sound for the life of the instrument. What if you do change them?? Not too hard.

[@DevilMayAsian]

Im curious if mounting single coils directly onto the body would work.

[@Pabletex91]

Same method, because he uses telecaster neck mounting screws, and this is a single coil like strats etc.

[@MrFengen]

What is the spec on that body. It looks really nice. You can also use surgical tube that you glue to the body or use the foam in the body. I've seen springs being superglued down in the body before the pickups is placed on top.

[@warmoth]

It's a Soloist body in Turquoise Dye.

[@MrFengen]

@@warmoth Mahogany with flamed maple I recon. It is absolutely stunning.

[@jeffmsnipes]

An interesting way is a product from FU-TONE.com that is called the PMS (pickup mounting system) that allows you to wood mount and use the original pickup screws. Its basically a brass bar that mounts to the bottom of the cavity screwed right to the wood. No drilling out your pickup Incase you ever resell it you preserve the integrity of it.

[@HeavyInstinct]

the problem with that system is you literally have to take the pick up out of the guitar in order to make any adjustments to the height.

[@jeffmsnipes]

I’ve not used it but my understanding was you didn’t. It allowed you to adjust as if there were pickup rings. But like I said I haven’t used it.

[@johnmartin5147]

You do have to take the pickup out and they give you a couple different screws that go under the middle of the pickup to adjust height. The advantage to this system is the pickup picks up the direct vibrations from the body without having springs or foam to absorb them. It's a pricey system for about $50. They have a video showing the mounting process. www.fu-tone.com/product/pms-pickup-mounting-system/

[@alex-solo]

But why's that body has drilled holes for pickup rings?

[@Eric_S]

Cosmetic rings? Aaron's bodies are experimental pieces. Looks that that body with a short feet pickup could make great A/B scientific test, direct mount vs. ring mount. You know somebody is going to criticize the use of foam as a "tone-suck" as it soaks up the Mojo of material resonances.

[@0000song0000]

part of me just wanna use layers of mounting tape.... as i cannot drill bigger holes on my emg pickups!

[@youske9999]

I'm not a professional guitar builder, but I give my opinion. When wood-mounted with foam, excessive adhesion to the body causes slight metal fatigue on the PU legs. In the worst case, Pu's legs may deform or break after long-term use. It is a good idea to adjust foam thickness for get the proper PU-body distance. Adjusting the foam thickness is easy. Just cut with a knife. Metallic fatigue of PU's legs doesn't matter so much in the case of using foam, but be careful when using wood bar instead of foam. I broke my Pu's leg with using wood bar.

[@bobennis433]

Can use spring?

[@shredhed572]

Lowe's has the exact same foam. Made for garage doors as weather strip. No minimum $8.00 shipping fee Stewmac charges. Plus you get like 10 feet!

[@warmoth]

Enough to do 1,000 guitars!!! :)

[@RavenMadd9]

thank you boss

[@Coppertunes]

I was just thinking about pick up mounting the other day during my lockdown boredom. The only real neat fitting pickup (without rings or a scratchplate) appears to be a P90. I was thinking about getting a nice flame top Tele body rear route, I don't want the Tele bridge or scratchplate to cover up any flame, and don't want pickup rings, it appears P90's are the best option.

[@roryyerama5496]

FU-Tone has a great mounting kit for direct mount

[@dancrowell2933]

That is what I used too.

[@JohnDoe9764]

A video about superwide necks would be cool :) Thanks Aaron for making this videos! I would love to hang around and talk to you in real life. Hook me up if you ever come to southern Germany ;) Keep up the good work!

[@warmoth]

I would LOVE to visit Germany!

[@JohnDoe9764]

@@warmoth I'll make sure there is tea in my kitchen 👍

[@RavenMadd9]

same for strat type?

[@shredgd5]

I don't like ruining the original screw holes of the humbucker legs, because if I don't like it and I want to use it for another guitar with pickup rings, or sell it, I can't do it. What I've always done is take the normal pickup screws and file about 3 mm of length under their head to make it able to rotate freely inside the pickup threaded hole, without damaging it.

[@brianmathiason29]

I see that pilot holes are present for the pickup mounting rings. Does Warmoth offer this or did you do this yourself with a template?

[@warmoth]

Warmoth does not drill those pilot holes. I drilled them myself.

[@joerhodes69]

I use stainless steel washers, foam cuts down the natural vibration transfer of the body and pickup... to each his own

[@leroyjenkins4811]

Do you think the washers are interfering with or altering the magnetic fields of the magnets? The washers would be sitting right underneath the magnets at the bottoms of the pickups after all. Maybe you haven’t had any problems with it (that you can notice) but I’m thinking that isn’t such a good idea. I’ve certainly never heard of anybody else doing that type of thing before. I was told to never let the magnets in my pickups come in contact with other magnets or pieces of metal that could be magnetized for prolonged periods of time. I was told doing things like this could alter the polarity of the magnets and damage them. I know that stainless steel is supposed to be non magnetic but I’ve never seen stainless steel that wasn’t, unless it was hi grade and expensive. Exotic and pricey cutlery steels come to mind. Stainless steel washers from the local hardware store are hardly hi grade steel or expensive. Kinda sounds like a Bubba job to me. I don’t know... where did you get the idea to do this? I’m not trying to insult your idea or your craftsmanship. I’m asking for research purposes. I’ve never heard of professionals recommending something like that and I’ve never seen anyone making an apparatus made from metal that does what you’re describing. I was thinking you could use brass or aluminum, as they are non magnetic. Not sure about the steel washer idea.

[@leroyjenkins4811]

I’ve owned quite a few guitars with direct mount pickups. Every time I took them apart they either had pieces of foam in there or in the P-90 equipped guitars, they had screws and little (but quite strong) springs in there. I didn’t think those tiny springs were worth worrying about.

[@TimCos9]

Hi Aaron, I was wondering if Warmoth has ever considered offering 2 1/4 neck pockets and neck heels? I noticed that a couple of other companies provide that option. Also great work with the videos 👍🏻

[@warmoth]

We have talked about it, but no plans as of now.

[@mikepietras3685]

Would have loved to see this option from Warmoth as well. A Charvel project required a 2-1/4” heel, had to order from that other company (the one in NJ). Having 4 Warmoth necks to compare to, I have to say the other company’s craftsmanship was lacking. Namely tear-out in the route for the skunk stripe (that they didn’t even bother to fill) & poor fretwork that required a slight level and re-crown. My Warmoth necks, on the other hand, have been nothing but perfection! They also offered brass side dots and rosewood face dots, which was important to me for this build. Two more options Warmoth could consider offering.

[@fivethumbs6118]

I use a block of wood under the pickup when I screw it directly to the body.

[@CitizenofMelee]

What advice would you give to first time builders?

[@warmoth]

Good idea for a video!

[@LeMans512]

Jazz bass pickup screws may be slim enough to slip through the hole without drilling. Don’t forget to floss.

[@mysterj1]

Do all your basses have a wood mount for mounting pickups?

[@warmoth]

Some do, some don't. It depends on what options you choose.

[@poisedforduty]

Hey Aaron how about doing this at the factory? like you do for the neck holes?

[@warmoth]

We leave drilling the pilot holes for pickups, tuners, strap buttons, etc to the person doing the assembling. There are just too many different brands, models, specs that change without notice, etc.

[@poisedforduty]

@@warmoth Ok Aaron thanks

[@magicdaveable]

I use "Sky Hooks" 😀 that way the pickups can be adjusted by telekinesis. 😀

[@shaunw9270]

😂😂🤟🤣

[@franciscoanavarro_p]

Nice !

[@zeppo20]

Hi, nice video. What kind of body is that? I mean the name and finish. Thank you.

[@warmoth]

That finish is Turquoise Dye. Purty, ain't it?

[@tomsearan5641]

Looks like a soloist body

[@tomsearan5641]

@@warmoth Love that color

[@zeppo20]

Is the the soloist body?

[@warmoth]

Yes.

[@agt2434]

Aaron, which color finish is that?

[@warmoth]

Turquoise Dye.