How to INSTANTLY Fix Wobbles and Increase Stability!

[@WheelGoodTime]

Please bear with me regarding the background music being too loud. When editing, it's nice and quiet - but after I upload it, the music somehow gets turned up annoyingly loud. My apologies! My goal is to hit 4000 subscribers by the end of 2024! If you haven't already, would you mind helping me reach that goal by hitting this link to subscribe to the channel? Thank you so much! www.youtube.com/@wheelgoodtime?sub_confirmation=1

[@JonahHax]

Just keep making good informative and helpful videos and I will keep recommending them to people 😀

[@Happyantix112]

great video, really you could do without the music, its not only too loud it's terrible music and takes away from the information you are presenting

[@BoyangSun]

interesting. I have my headsets on and it's fine. I think you might need to test background music with and without headsets on.

[@BruceWayne15325]

Me when I experience my first wobble at speed: "OMG I'm dead, I'm dead!" Several months later experiencing wobbles: "Seriously, again... sigh" A year later: "Meh"

[@PacificNorthwest360]

This was totally me hahaha. My first wobble at 32 was scary and thought I was going down but somehow I carved out of it.

[@divingfalconfpv4602]

I only get tiny ones on my current wheel. Assuming it's my fault being loose on it. V10F. I got V13 on the way eventually

[@BruceWayne15325]

@@divingfalconfpv4602 Weak legs, bad posture, holding the wheel with your legs, or bad balance are the most common causes... and of course speed. Hence the term "speed wobbles." Enjoy your V13!

[@NahBra_EUC]

Great info for the people learning the big lessons. Also remember, if you’re getting wobbles often and you’ve tried changing your stance, you likely need to reconfigure your pads. Sometimes your pads are forcing your body weight to offset the balance. It took me a while to realize this and once it clicked it made a HUGE difference in my riding.

[@JonahHax]

Rob, you forgot to mention that you can carve while braking by alternating the pressure on your heels. That will also remove brake wobbles.

[@WheelGoodTime]

Funny you mention that - I actually had that in the video but I cut it out. That part felt a bit disjointed in the video, and while I know it's effective for many, I feel like it's a bit less effective. I could be wrong about that, and your mileage may vary, but since I don't use that method personally, I didn't want to recommend a method that I don't use myself.

[@johnnygovroom]

It’s the best too me

[@WilliamEdstrom]

ive seen you do it so gracious in ur videos. i will practice this if i will be able to ride again@@johnnygovroom

[@johnnygovroom]

@@WilliamEdstrom bro 😎 that’s so kind. Are you ok? What is making so you are not riding ?

[@WilliamEdstrom]

@@johnnygovroom I had a cutout on my v12 ht in September. Fell backwards at about 27 mph as it went out under me. I sprained my ankle really bad. It’s still not healed properly.

[@tigerucla]

For braking wobbles, I find sitting my butt "down" more effective than leaning back. Like you said, get your weight behind the wheel rather than above it.

[@BBC-EUC]

I drove 6000 km on different wheels alternating and still face such a problem, I will add from myself I often use this method 40% on one leg and 60% on the other so I distribute my weight and it helps

[@maukaman]

What kind of pads do you have, what kind of shoes are you wearing, and what’s your tire psi?

[@ChrisH0Y]

I'll be getting a Master Pro V3 in a few weeks, and I'll remember your tips about big wheels. Great Stuff!

[@WheelGoodTime]

From one master pro owner to another, I had issues at the beginning with my MP because I wasn't leaning over the side enough to carve/turn, and got myself in some bad/embarrassing situations in teaffice because of that. Give me a shout/leave another comment if you'd like any further one-on-one help and I'm be happy to hook you up 🙂

[@ChrisH0Y]

Your Video on the 1500mi Master Pro review helped me see the potential of this wheel for a serious all-day long-distance wheel. I'll be treating the MPV3 like I'm learning to ride all over again, practicing turns, doing figure eights, etc. It'll be fun so see if I can ride it backwards and idle with it. I have the leg/core strength from riding my traditional 36" wheel pedal unicycle to muscle this monolith-of-a-wheel around. For now, I'll be taking it nice and slow over a period of months - and I know with this wheel, the wobbles will return, and I will be ready! It will be looking forward to seeing the brave souls that try the "Master Pro Super!"@@WheelGoodTime

[@juhamartikainen3050]

Seriously best EUC wobble video I have ever seen. Now algorithm should wake up and direct more followers for this channel because this is quality content.

[@WheelGoodTime]

You just made my day, thank you so much 😃

[@reitze01]

@@WheelGoodTime He's right! Nothing to dispute, and only thing I could think to add is about stopping wobbles being avoided by grab-handle-carve (ultra-carve). Well done man!

[@jamesm217]

Great video, when I get them I put most of my weight on my dominant foot, like your about to ride one footed without removing it completely and the wobbles dissappear.

[@wheelman6964]

Great advice, thank you. Another way to help counter the gyroscopic effect of big wheels when going into curves is also setting up feet and ankles to help steer the wheel as well as positioning the wheel and body before starting to pull into the curve. Like with motorcycles taking good curves is mostly about setting up everything, angle, body position, aiming for apex before the curve starts. Hope this is useful.

[@rcgldr]

One key exception to using carving to stop wobbles is if riding on a bumpy surface, such as expansion joints on pavement. Bumpy pavement will cycle the load on the tire, which will in turn cycle the lateral load at the contact patch aggravating or inducing wobbles. When riding on bumpy surfaces on non-suspension wheels, bending the knees more so that the legs provide more suspension like response will help prevent wobbles. As for carving in general, I haven't seen any videos of the 50+ mph riders (like Dawn and Roger) doing any carving. I don't know how fast Wrong Way has ridden, but he does suggest squeezing the upper pads to dampen wobbles.

[@divingfalconfpv4602]

Yea I seen think was wrong way saying put ur leg against the wheel..

[@tigrollin6450]

I needed this, already figured a lot of it out but nice to see a video on it. My son has crashed 5 times because of wobbles, ive always rode through them. Great video.

[@EvNerds]

Dude, i like your explanation. Very good for new EUC people. Nice narrative, and not boring! 💪

[@WheelGoodTime]

Thanks 😃

[@ManifoldSky]

The problem is, the explanation part is not correct

[@rcgldr]

To force heavy EUCs to turn at high speed, the rider has to apply inwards pressure on the outside upper pad with the outside leg. The inside leg doesn't have anything to press against (other than the pedal, which doesn't' provide enough leverage). At high speed a rider has to lean | hang off much more than the EUC is titled, allowing the outside lower leg to pull inwards on the upper pad, (the outside foot also pushes outwards on the outside pedal) to exert an inwards torque on the EUC to force it to tilt inwards. Spiked pedals are used to keep the feet from sliding on the pedals when applying lateral forces on the pedals.

[@WheelGoodTime]

Well said!

[@thegreatcornholio8028]

Best explanation of what happens.

[@reitze01]

Gr8 vid! 1 more lesson is that for Breaking practice, use "extreme carve" action. And if you can't carve hard enough, wobble-limited breaking. Like I notice going from 50 to 30 without enough hard-carve = wobble induction.

[@Acolis]

thanks for the tips. i just got a v11y. i am pretty comfortable at 25 but faster i start to get wobbles. ill have to get used to this heavier wheel but these tips helped a ton. i dont have pads to lean on and brake wobbles are way scarier than speed wobbles imo

[@normantorok5919]

Thx i needed this...took the same fall from wobbles 8 weeks ago and i'm still healing my broken finger...not gonna give up...but i'm hoping this vid helps me!

[@reitze01]

He's correct in his vid. You can do it! Also I add that stopping is a critical wobble-induction and the only solution I know is grabbing the seat/handle and forcing an ultra-carve action. Happy riding!

[@sherryandpeter]

I have been riding a unicycle for about four years and have covered around 60,000 km during this time. Recently, I have figured out why I experience wobbling and how to prevent it. I have noticed that when I accelerate, my right leg applies slightly more pressure on the pads, and when I brake, it's my left leg. This is why carving helps to stop the wobbles. If you try to put equal pressure on both pads during acceleration or braking, you induce wobbles because the pressure you're applying to the wheel is inconsistent, shifting from leg to leg and inducing wobbles. I tested this by removing my left acceleration pad and my right brake pad because when I accelerate, my right leg is my dominant leg, and when I brake, my left leg is my dominant leg. I guarantee you will get much fewer wobbles, or maybe no wobbles. Removing these pads is just an exercise to show you how a dominant leg eliminates wobbles. Once you comprehend and realize what is happening and believe in it, then put all your pads back on and enjoy wobble-free riding.

[@tonymejias8171]

Thanks for the tips. I'm working on it. Regards from Puerto Rico Rider 🇵🇷.

[@haroldsmith45302]

06:20 Letting the vehicle's side repeatedly slap one of my legs is also how I damp out wobbles. In my case, the vehicle is a motorcycle or bicycle - I am not yet an EUC rider, but aspire to be one. I think when the vehicle's side slaps the leg, energy is transferred to the leg and therefore is extracted from the vehicle. This helps to damp out the wobble cycle. Your advice to NOT attempt to stop wobbles by gripping the EUC tightly with both legs is also consistent with my experience on motorcycles and bicycles. I really appreciate how EUC riders share their experiences and tips to help newcomers.

[@rcgldr]

Sport motorcycles since the 1990's are designed to recover from wobbles on their own, and the high end bikes are stable at 185+ mph. In the case of some racing motorcycles where the trail is decreased to reduce the effort it take to steer at high speed, steering dampers (shocks that go from frame to handlebars) are used to stop wobbles. Wobbles generally only occur when the front tire is lifted and lands a bit off track, but the bike will recover from those induced wobbles without the rider having to do anything. A good example of this is Isle of Man TT, run on streets at high speed (200+ mph in some spots), where the front tire or both tires go off the pavement at many spots on the track.

[@wilsonmeredith5517]

Excellent information

[@Corn8Bit]

For me, leaning on the front pads and on my heels works while accelerating (counterintuitively). Same for braking, weight on my toes and my calf pads.

[@dustinhankins2153]

I imagine manufacturers could implement something in the firmware that could sense a speed wobble and be able to self correct by making slight corrections upon it happening. This would be a game changer. I don’t see why they can’t look into this and make it happen.

[@andrewwalsh2755]

I started riding on a Gotway MSX, a few years ago. I experienced wheel wobble, thought about it... and fixed it... Look at the video of the riders... look at their knees... look at the gap between the knee and the EUC... When the wheel wobbles, it moves from side to side, and your counteraction to this is applied by your leg. The wheel is like a lever, pivoting about the point of contact of the tyre with the road. Your leg is applying a counteraction force, starting at the foot, a few inches above the pivot point, and continuing up the leg until contact ends. The higher the contact point, the greater the distance from the pivot point on the ground, and the less force required to counteract the wobble. So... keep your legs straight, let your legs "hug" the wheel continuously as you ride... and, fill any gap between knee and EUC with hard foam or similar so that whole of lower leg can apply force to counteract wheel wobble... Over time, it strengthens your leg muscles, making control even easier... and no more wheel wobble...

[@yankochoynev652]

When you wobble, relax your legs, saved me twice already.

[@wavefuse]

Great video and explanation of physics of wobbles !

[@skan8]

I don't know if it works for other wheels but on my V12HT offroad tire I have learned to have almost zero wobbles using the fundamental heel-toe principle. Sometimes I get some wobbles when making a turn at 30+ mph but only If i forget to use it properly.

[@kutvis]

Thank you for the video! After somewhat of ~18K km on wheels I have yet to crash because of wobble. I just squeeze my legs together, drop weight back and force the wheel in position, easier ones I ride through. Not sure is it doable on high+heavy wheels, but haven't had any issues with Master/Smax.

[@tonygomez185]

Appreciate your insight. Thanks

[@erickvg76]

Thanks 👍

[@FurryNonsense]

The background music started getting too loud to hear you half way in

[@WheelGoodTime]

@@FurryNonsense Yeah I understand. Sorry about that. Definitely an editing error that I didn't catch in time

[@tonygomez185]

Great content, be safe. Thanks

[@thedangleengankle8613]

Excellent video!

[@Whizzo333]

Why does cut out cause instantaneous catastrophic crash instead of freewheeling and giving the rider at least a chance of falling off less catastrophic like ......? Thx

[@WheelGoodTime]

That's just how EUCs work - even when an EUC isn't moving, it's using the motor's power to stay upright. When you are moving, it has to work harder to stay upright - using 50% of the motor's power capacity, for example. If you keep pushing it REALLY hard, you'll exceed the motor's ability to stay upright and it physically can't work any harder, then it cuts out. I hope that made sense, does it answer your question?

[@rcgldr]

A cut out occurs normally occurs when a rider is exerting a forwards torque onto the EUC (which equals the forwards torque the motor exerts onto the wheel+tire) to maintain speed. This coexists with the EUC exerting a backwards torque onto the EUC rider. The result of this is the rider has to lean further forwards since the lean has to compensate for both the acceleration and the torque involved. If there is a cutout, the EUC instantly stops exerting that backwards torque that was supporting the rider, and the rider is instantly falling forwards.

[@Schirginator]

What pads are you running on your extreme? It looks awesome

[@WheelGoodTime]

@@Schirginator thanks 😀 I have the grizzla fairing kit and grizzla flow pads on the extreme 🙂

[@Whattanu]

Yeah I finally figured out how to go faster and not get the wobbles. Problem is when I need to stop I get wobbles really bad now when stopping from 30mph or faster. I have have to stop very slow till I hit about 15mph then I can sit down and stop fast without wobbles.

[@JJP1890]

I would add that stiffer shoes can actually hinder muscle development and pedal feel for beginners as well

[@BoyangSun]

amazing content! subbed

[@WheelGoodTime]

Thank you so much! 😃

[@carlosrios5162]

How do you pratice against Wobbles? just get better at carvin ?

[@WheelGoodTime]

Just carve all the time 🙂 or you can choose to not carve and when it happens you can begin carving.

[@Rocksaplenty]

When I brake, if I can, I do a little tiny half-moon with the wheel too, it cuts the last of the wobble out.

[@ricklulu3572]

Try deflating your tire pressure to prevent the speed wobble which is better than to try to get out of one.

[@divingfalconfpv4602]

My shoes suck though. When I try to go to leg and lean my weight to balance my feet slide to the side of my shoe like rolling over lol. I'm have to try my other sneakers or tighten my laces

[@pacochawa2746]

Love the vid.

[@torion29able]

Great info

[@Padel84287]

Hi, do you think v14 has big gyroscopic effect? It is heavy(40 kg) but the wheel is not big.

[@WheelGoodTime]

@@Padel84287 it's not super strong, about the same as the Extreme and Patton. A comfortable amount. 🙂

[@ScottAmbrose-rc2xq]

You say the oscillating will continue to grow unless you do something to stop it... I don't think this is correct in the sense that the wheel doesn't really want to wobble. It is wobbling because of rider input. It's the same phenomenon that happens with motorcycles and "tank slappers". Riders have been thrown off the bike and then the bike glides smoothly, free of wobble, once the rider inputs stop. The rider can stop the wobble, but it's also the rider that causes the wobble.

[@boblatkey7160]

Well I think he is correct in that the oscillation will get worse and worse if you don't do something about it. Of course that means that a strong oscillation has to begin.

[@Index-o1234]

🙄-Nobody wobbles on ski's, I disagree in that your footware is just as important as practice when handeling a wobble. ( Why even try and sell Special EUC footware and FP insoles then?) Go ahead and hurt your feet or Ankle nubs and see how much worst managing a wobble or even a skateboard can be if in dought. Irregardless of my opinion today you made a very good video that highlights a problem we all come across at some point Superman syndrom...😂

[@Riceman-o1p]

I've tested footwear a number of times and I find there is a huge difference. Boots with rigid soles that thoroughly contact the peddles reduce my speed wobbles and crappy flexible sneakers increase my speed wobbles.

[@GalacticalAmbassador]

I accidentally found a way to remove the death wobble. So one day I was spaced out and went around 20 mph straight into a curb. I nearly tripped but made it out on my feet. The euc however wasnt so lucky. It had a big dent in the rim and made some rubbing noise and the psi leaked down to under 20. But what I noticed is the wobble went away. It had a constant wobble from the dent but it never got to the point where I would get close to crashing. After fixing it and putting the psi back up the wobble return back immediately and was so noticeable I thought something wasnt right

[@WheelGoodTime]

Yep, lowering psi is an easy way to reduce wobbles! It won't fix it completely,, but it definitely helps 👍👍👍

[@Tichrai2]

I've been choking wobbles by doing the worst thing possible as you said xD it probably worked for me because of low speed (25-30km/h) and very strong, trained gym legs -_-' i'll practice and try carving next time

[@WalrusHal]

I don't yet have an EUC, so I'm still in the waiting and watching stage. At the very end of the video you said "You wanna know one last cheat-code that basically never wobble again?" "Ride seated." Given that wobbles occur when riding while standing, how does riding seated eliminate them?

[@WheelGoodTime]

That's a great question. Here's the answer: I dunno 😂 it may have to do with the lower center of gravity, or the fact that more of your body mass is touching (and applying pressure to) the wheel. That's my guess anyway - seems logical 🤔 but I've never met anyone who has ever had scary wobbles while riding seated. 😊

[@maukaman]

I assume it’s because you aren’t connected to the wheel with your elastic legs so oscillations don’t have anywhere to propagate. I don’t ride seated often but I’m sure with the right seated position on the right wheel speed wobbles would likely never happen, which is cool because even motorcycles can get speed wobbles.

[@rcgldr]

@@maukaman Sport motorcycles since the 1990's are designed to recover from wobbles on their own, and the high end bikes are stable at 185+ mph. Some racing motorcycles have steering geometry that reduces the amount of effort needed to steer (which could be prone to wobbles), but compensate by using steering dampers (shocks between frame and handlebars) to prevent and auto-recover from wobbles.

[@cheshire_]

I hit a small crack in the street and it made me lose control, probably braking out of fear made it worse will keep these in mind, also I need better equipment and especially padded shorts, that's the only place I hurt myself lol

[@dxgbj3]

i remember i took a v14 from a guy (he was only one in city that have v14) and i raised my speed about 50-60, after that i made a little drop and euc wobbled that hard so it kinda hurt my legs.

[@bigbadboogie6842]

Releasing wheel with legs and straightening knees allmost fully allways worked for me. Both on over inflated gotway tesla (you ride with some wobbles in turns, fully normal)and good old veteran Sherman. Crouching or gripping wheel = NO.

Carving + weight distribution. Put your weight on your toes on one side and on your heel on the other side while doing slight carves. Will never get wobbles again.

[@anDromedaIOT]

I get foot ache sometimes, any tips or advice? I am new and sometimes plant my feet imperfectly and struggle to shuffle them into place which prolly causes it. Re-planting feet is well tricky for me.

[@WheelGoodTime]

Foot aches are normal. They'll go away with more practice from stronger foot muscles. Also I'd recommend learning how to make small foot adjustments while moving (practice riding at low speed 1-footed) so eventually you can comfortably lift your heel and toe occasionally while moving to give your foot a brief rest.

[@kalle5548]

Had the same thing happen on my Ks 16s when I was starting to learn, at first I could do like 50m before my feet was hurting like crazy. I found that placing the heal further forward would help my feet out, note that it worsens your brakes, so having some small pad at the back is almost necessary if you wanna try that, Cheers

[@Riceman-o1p]

I switched to a boot that has a more rigid sole primarily to protect my ankles. However I found that a more rigid sole drastically reduces my foot aches. And of course the more time you put in on the wheel the better. I also leave my wheel in the living room and repeatedly practice going across the living room on 1 foot only. And I switch feet doing that. That totally helps when you're riding at speed as it is much easier to adjust your feet and that drastically reduces the pain also as wheel good time had already stated.

[@anDromedaIOT]

​@@WheelGoodTimeThanks, will try. So hard to shuffle once riding.

[@anDromedaIOT]

​@@kalle5548thanks, noobie with 10 miles and a deep canal 😂

[@pacochawa2746]

That leaning to turn was addressed by fort9. Leaning does nothing for turning. At least with motorcycles putting the tire on an angle is what causes to turn. We don't have counter steer but putting the tire on an angle is the most effective way. I'm thinking for euca pushing down on the pedal is our best bet. When I do slow maneuvers the counter lean and pressing on the pedals gives me the most control. I don't know about high speed cornering. The lean maybe helps us stay on the wheel but fort9 explained that when the tire is on the side the cone effect is the most force dealing with turning. Turn the tire into a cone and it has to turn. On motorcycles you can lean and still go straight. Thus wasting energy for minimal results. Can any high speed riders give feed back? I'm thinking shifting weight on pedals would be more efficient yet I have only gone 31 miles top speed so far. Or is throwing your weight into the wheel what is leaning the wheel? This is a good topic.

[@WheelGoodTime]

The way to counteract the strong gyroscopic force (keeping it both upright and therefore going straight) is to tilt the wheel as you suggested. However you're unable to do that nearly as easily as you can with smaller EUCs. So your only choice is to use your inside leg to press firmly in the intended direction and use your body weight to force the wheel to tilt. Pressing on the pedals can help, but you won't be able to exert the necessary force to turn/carve at 35+ mph on a Master Pro using pedal pressure alone - it's a bit of a unique animal.

[@kwk8363]

You can 100% do counter steering. There are 2 ways to do that. 1st when you lean to the side, push front pad that is on the inside of corner (same as you would do that when accelerating). Push only 1 side 2nd move your calf that is on the opposite side of a turn to the back (point of pressure have to be further back then wheel axel) and leverage wheel that way You can try to mix both for better result. It's better to have.... how to say it... Long? Wheel body in that case

[@kwk8363]

I was taking about high speed turns btw. Funny fact, you can also lean you Euc and still go straight. Happened to me few times on heavy wind and to thin tire (80/90-17) You can also find similar situation on v13 when guy just run into the wall. there is a clip from that somewhere here on YT, it was light color/yellow wall if I remember correctly

[@pacochawa2746]

@@kwk8363 Ya eucs have their own properties. Motorcycle does cross over but euc has stuff unique to only eucs.

[@pacochawa2746]

@@kwk8363 I would have never guessed, thanks for sharing that.

[@coolhandhick]

I get constant wobbles on my v12 pro. Get over like 18mph and that shit dances like Shakira. Tried a few of these techniques and it mitigates it some but, still wiggles like Jello

[@WheelGoodTime]

@@coolhandhick two things come to mind for the V11: what kind of pads are you using? If your foot isn't locked in (using pads just on the upper part), then this can happen. Also, double check that your foot placement is flood. Too far forward or back can easily cause wobbles. If all those things are good to go, then don't lose heart! Eventually you will build up the skill to overcome and manage those wobbles, but it may take some time and practice.

[@jackskelington19]

What to do if the wobbles get too out of control and you can't carve safely?

[@WheelGoodTime]

I don't see how it's possible to be unable to carve at all. If you're doing it right and force your body weight side to side while pushing against one side of the EUC at a time, there shouldn't be any reason why it won't work.

[@jackskelington19]

@WheelGoodTime I have a v12 and I've gone downhill in SF with really bad wobbles(trying to reach the light before it turned red! Dumb idea) Luckily I didn't fall or crash. But what I did was to slow down, don't panic and squeeze crazy hard. I like your video a lot. I agree if I was carving while going down hill I may have never even gotten the wobbles that bad. When I think back to this particular situation, I don't think I could of carved out of the wobbles. They were too sudden and too hard all at once.

[@rcgldr]

@@WheelGoodTime - at high speed (50+ mph) there may not be enough room to carve.

[@KevinRedmondWA]

Practice, it’s the only way to get rid of wobbles. Especially when you jump on a new wheel, I don’t care how experienced you are, learn the new wheel as if you are new to EUCs. Edit: I just realized the above isn’t the only way. The second guaranteed way to prevent wobbles is to sit on your Euc. I have never ever seen anyone get wobbles while seated.

[@you_tube6733]

do a lil bunny hop. lol

[@pradatuwirawan3907]

6:07 7:02

[@ThomasDesJardins]

Riding in dirt and sand help you get comfortable with wobbles. Youll learn to just ride through them

[@devins1495]

I enjoy riding rough dirt/sandy trails even at fast past struggling to maintain balance feeling confident but get me in a smooth street my mind starts playing tricks on me freaking me out everytime I wobble for some reason.

[@ThomasDesJardins]

​@@devins1495 could be you are not riding an edge. In dirt you slide left and right and its like snowboarding. So maybe carving on the street would help

[@The-awakener]

Good educational video but not entirly true. The real way to prevent wobbles is accelerate with your ''toes'', lifting your ''heel'', and vice versa for braking. That's why braking in seat down stance helps prevent wobbles because some people accidentally lift their toes when braking in that stance. The core idea is reducing the size of contact/pressure point on the pedals when accelerating/braking.

[@WheelGoodTime]

I'm glad that method works for you - if there's anything I've learned in the world of EUC techniques, there's many different ways to successfully accomplish certain tasks 😊

[@WilliamEdstrom]

Relax, never squeeze the wheel and carve!

[@ManifoldSky]

Not sure where this idea is coming from that the wheel is trying to somehow become a sphere, or what possible physical mechanism is being claimed that would cause such thing and bring it about, but there is no such physical force that corresponds to this claim. There is nothing that makes a wheel try to be a sphere, and this is not a phenomenon with any basis in real world physics. It also fails to explain the exact same phenomenon in multiple other platforms, and in particular, skateboards. In reality, the real cause of speed wobbles on all such systems is the same, and is a phenomenon in physics known as a Hopf bifurcation. The Hopf bifurcation is a broadly occurring physical phenomenon in numerous, vastly disparate and diverse systems, that causes a physical system that was originally in equilibrium in a static state to transform into one in which the system is now in a preferred equilibrium while in oscillation. As stated, Hopf bifurcations occur in many, widely different systems, from skateboards and Onewheels, to shopping cart caster wheels, to predator prey population dynamics in ecological systems. Below a certain threshold, determined by various metrics unique to each system, the entire system is in equilibrium with the main factors remaining static. So skateboards continue to roll in a straight line, Onewheels, EUCs, and shopping cart wheels roll with no pitch or yaw, and increases in prey populations cause a steady increase in predator populations (and vice versa). But after the threshold is passed, the system switches to a dynamic equilibrium state, where the system is most stable oscillating between two extents. Increased distance from the threshold value causes the extents of the oscillations to widen, thus causing the oscillations to grow in amplitude (but usually not frequency) and become more violent. The most obvious “trick” to reduce the wobble is to do something to bring the system back below the Hopf bifurcation threshold value. In rolling wheeled systems, that means getting it back below the system’s Hopf bifurcation speed. If one wishes to continue to keep the system above the Hopf bifurcation threshold, i.e., ride above the speed that wobbles naturally set in, the rider must reduce the inevitable oscillations that occur above the system’s Hopf bifurcation threshold by damping the system on the oscillation axis. A note: an untrained rider will often do exactly the opposite: instead of damping the oscillations, they panic, and instead react to the system attempting to do what feels like turning out from under them by trying to turn back the other way. But because they are reacting rather than acting, their natural reaction time causes them to input the force to turn in the opposite direction at exactly the time that the system has already switched to the opposite oscillation, and, instead of damping the oscillations, they actually add addition energy to them, causing their amplitude to increase! So how does one dampen these oscillations? At lower speed (and consequently lower amplitude oscillations) often the best response is no response at all. Rather, allow the EUC, Onewheel, skateboard, etc, to just oscillate naturally as it would otherwise do, under your feet. The natural behavior of the Hopf bifurcation will eventually cause a wobble in one direction to reverse and come back on its own, no rider input required. Being able to dampen your own instinctive, automatic, natural reaction to the device seemingly turning out from under you takes training and experience. THAT is what you are gaining as you ride, not, as many people claim, strengthened calf muscles, stronger tendons on the ankles or feet, or any other physical change in the rider’s body. Rather, it is a change in the neural linkages that dictate instinctive response to what is essentially the rider beginning to fall, learning to ignore what your body would normally react to by trying to catch itself. This damping of natural, instinctive, neural response is mode-dependent, BTW, which is why, when you first switch modes from riding to back to standing or walking, you can feel unsteady or clumsy for the first few minutes, to the point that you can even look drunk. Your neural networks in your spinal column and cerebellum are full ignoring proprioceptive sensory signals that normally allow you to stay upright while standing and walking, making you unstable until you mode switch back to “normal” mode. Placing weight on one leg on an EUC also works because it dampens the oscillations on one side in a way that avoids this natural tendency to amplify rather than dampen the oscillations on the other (because you can’t switch weight from one side to the other if you only have your weight on the one side!). Likewise, leaning far back dampens the oscillations by not only reducing your speed (closer to the Hopf bifurcation point of the system) but also by placing equal pressure on both sides of the system, damping its oscillations on both sides while not amplifying them on either. You could also achieve a similar effect by driving your shins and knees forward, even while leaning your weight back, to slow or maintain speed, and putting equal pressure on both front pads, again dampening the system’s oscillations from both sides. Which works best can depend a lot on the specifics: the terrain, the device, the rider’s body (weight, height, center of mass, skill, etc., and the best option can change from situation to situation. There’s a lot more to it, but that’s the basics!

[@bricehoogenboom6483]

Us 2 wheelers calls those tank slappers. Not fun......

[@JohnEnergy2012]

A wobble is an imbalance.

[@weberito]

Annoying background music does not add anything good to otherwise excellent video

[@WheelGoodTime]

Yeah it's been a struggle of mine where it turns out nice and quiet while I'm editing, then it somehow ends up way louder after the final product gets uploaded to YT. Very frustrating. I appreciate the feedback, and sorry about that - always working to improve.

[@shinobieuc]

Imo your braking advice is no go.

[@WheelGoodTime]

Why is that?

[@maukaman]

Please elaborate…

[@rcgldr]

@@WheelGoodTime My assumption is that it's not an option if emergency braking.

[@Riceman-o1p]

You might not be doing it right. I have bad posture and if I get my butt way behind the unicycle that is not the only solution. I have to make sure my back is straight and that makes a huge difference.

[@MurfatlarAII0]

Valuable content, many thanks, now I’m ready to practice my muscle memory when comes to wobbles. I’ve experimented this second time I drove with the wheel 🛞 Thanks again ! ✅🫡🙏🎩

[@denisosborne9040]

'Promo sm' 🤗