How to insulate a 100 year old house and not destroy it - Old House Renovation 5

[@aaronvallejo8220]

We bought a beautiful old two story 1912 house on the Canadian prairies. It gets -55C at times here every winter! So we gutted the interior right down to the studs everywhere. We installed new insulated steel doors and new triple pane windows. Then we zip disked off all the protuding nails in all the wall bays and spray foamed every crack, fissor, joint and junction we could possibly find. Then to maintain dry studs and cladding boards we installed two vertical strips of lathe in each perimeter wall bay top to bottom for circulation air gap. We then installed 2" foam strips 13 3/4" wide in every wall bay on both stories and sealed all cracks with more cans of spray foam. Once complete we installed another layer of 1" foam in all the wall bays and sealed with more canned spray foam. It was a lot of work! But then the foam was flush with the 2x4 studs. Winter arrived and our house was the warmest it had ever been in 112 years:) Our plan now is poly vapour barrier followed by 1.5" of foam sheets for a thermal break over the wall studs and then new drywall and re-install the old original base boards and trim throughout the house. We stored all of it in the basement when we gutted the place. For the actual concrete basement we installed 2" foam blocks in all the floor joist pockets and then full sheets of 2" foam over the old cold concrete walls secured with 4" concrete screws and large washers. For the floor we also shimmed up 2" sheets of foam and skinned them with 1/4" good one side expensive plywood for a super warm and habitable basement. It is now a beautifully warm and cozy old character house using minimal electrical heat, no natural gas with a tiny wood stove for back up heating. Next year we'll install an air sourced heat pump for the shoulder seasons heating and summer cooling along with solar PV vertically along the back fence and year after a residential home battery system and infloor electric heating. This is what we did...I hope it helps others renovate old homes. Please comment suggestions and questions. Enjoy yourselves out there in this journey:)

[@Housebarons]

Thx for that extensive input. Very helpful for people who are weighing their options! Hope you have many cozy winters!

[@areitu]

Thank you for the short concise no-nonsense video about the pros/cons of insulating an older home

[@Housebarons]

Hey areitu, Glad you liked it! Just passing on what we picked up from our research. Thx for watching!

[@fxsrider]

Keeping a century old home in shape is a challenge. If you aren't aware of the pitfalls of improper upgrades it can really hurt you down the road. One of my relatives had holes cored into her exterior walls and then insulation blown in. She has a major mess on her hands now. That stuff is wet and moldy. The company that did it could care less if it was the right thing for her home. A little research never hurts. Thanks for making the video and pointing out "why" we don't just stuff whatever we can find down into balloon frame style walls. Have a great Day!! Edit. Possibly moldy. Won't know until the hammers fly.

[@Housebarons]

Hey fxs, Yikes! People need to know that before getting stuck! Thx for commenting!

[@TotemoGaijin]

Funny thing is, on a lot of these older houses, when you tear down the plaster, you'll find out that the people who built it did just that, (throw whatever they can in). Old clothes, rags, newspapers.

[@jessegee179]

True, from UK experience you have to make sure hat and boots of the house are good. Fix roof and gutters, and keep the foundations clear of soil and vegetation. Lots of flowerbeds are too high up the wall, trapping moisture. Best way to insulate inside is as you say, don’t fill the cavity, but consider insulating the internal walls, and ventilate well. We used Rockwall wallpaper, it helped a bit. Definitely don’t paint exterior with watertight weather proof mixture, that just traps the moisture inside. Peter Ward is a good uk blogger, he understands old stone properties, damp etc in cold wet northern uk.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jesse, Thx for the tip and for watching!

[@wdnspoon]

There's so much misinformation from companies trying to make big money off of "leaky basements". Digging a channel and dimple-sheeting the INSIDE of a house that has clogged gutters and a downspout that dumps right onto the seam of the basement, with a floor grade sloped into the house. It's infuriating!

[@jd-cr3pz]

I have an 1874 fixer. The roof wasn’t an issue but water was coming in around rotted window sills. The walls had insulatIon and plastic between the sheetrock and studs which really trapped the moisture. Rebuilding the sills and replacing the windows fixed it. The windows were those single pane metal frame type. Double pane made a huge difference on the energy bill and muted the street noise.

[@Housebarons]

Hey JD, Good job. Back a hundred + years ago, flashing a window wasn’t really a thought. Thx for watching.

[@motosporttouring]

Thank you. Looks like I’ll leave it in the hands of the pros instead of it costing me more to fix problems I create.

[@StrawB0ss]

I'm not hearing any real advice here. Just 5 minutes of the same warning.

[@atbaritone]

Right? Nothing of any consequence.

[@huntspoint3442]

Did you watch the video?

[@xochilsilva1357]

Did you watch the ending?

[@kw6713a]

I have a 120 yr old Victorian and my approach is to air seal and insulate attic to r38 (diminishing returns after that), air seal and insulate rim joist, air seal everywhere else you can think to do, add double pane or storm windows (remove the window trim and foam can the framing around windows too). Wrap pipes in the basement. Take the money you'd have sunk into spraying inside wall cavities and/or replacing all the interior plaster and spend it on efficient heat pumps instead. Walls aren't as important as basement and attic anyway, and imo, spending that couple grand toward heat pumps is a better use of dollars. Good luck my friend.

[@geeperjane]

He explained the solutions is to take off all of the exterior siding and waterproof the house before putting new siding on. Then it's safe to insulate. As an alternative I've been looking into rockwool because it's supposed to be breathable and not condensate. They insulated houses in the 1940s with rockwool with no evidence of rot, but I'm still not sure if it's a viable solution.

[@alexlindekugel8727]

modern sience tells us. walls must stay dry or be able to dry. and insalation slows heat loss. thats it. amazing how far we have come. lol. my house is 121 years old old stick fram farm house. almost done with all the interior work. it was rehabed in the 70s where they added insalation. and in o7 when i got it and started the remodle well no water damage to walls except a few places where water had leaked in sum how. so aslong as exterior aint leaken rain in insalaing with batts seams totoly safe.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Alex, Wow - 121 yrs old! Awesome! Glad to hear your house is going strong! Thx for watching!

[@sunshinecompany1]

150 farmhouse /no insulation on balloon framing. Can I put bats in... Then poly and drywall on?

[@longbox007]

This video confirms what I am hearing about 100+ year old homes. There is no easy fix to getting them insulated. I'm glad I watched this before trying the more simple fix of injecting insulation behind my old decrepit siding.

[@Housebarons]

Those century homes are nice - but complex 😃

[@GrantSR]

2/3 of the way through and you are finally STARTING to tell me how to actually fix the problem.

[@roberttaylor9259]

But at least he gave a detailed explanation 6 times. And then didn’t give the true fix nearly at all.

[@eh_bailey]

If you can work on the outside with new waterproofing, siding, and windows, that is best. There are also some options to make a breather gap (covered mesh or spacers) and then use spray foam. I also like mineral wool because it doesn't fill up with water and can breathe, but it won't be as efficient if air can move back and forth.

[@Housebarons]

Hey eh…, Thanks for the input. Thx for watching!

[@pcatful]

I think you don't want "air movement" but vapor movement. Air movement inside or through the cavity defeats insulation.

[@taylorjensen6181]

No new windows!!! I wish this was common knowledge. Today’s vinyl windows are also victims of planned obsolescence and are designed to fail. Old windows are old because they are good - storm windows are the addition and investment any old home owner should be making, for the integrity of the home and the product. New windows are quite literally a scam.

[@claytonjames4779]

​@@taylorjensen6181so you're saying that I should keep single pane windows in a place where it gets down to zero degrees?😅

[@Im1withU]

@@taylorjensen6181 In the industry it is said, " Do you know why they call them replacement window? Because every 25 years you have to replace them (or sooner)". The old single pane windows, that have been cared for can easily last a century if not longer. Now what does "cared for" mean? Painting them, along with repairing or replacing their weather stripping (which is generally spring bronze) if they have any. Also using the wooden storm windows or screens, as the season calls for, that were often part of that system. If you never open your windows, then the storm windows could be left on year round. (What a shame not to have the beauty of nature flowing through your living spaces, but what the hell to each their own.) All that maintenance takes time and we all know time is money. But you are going to spend the money anyways, either by buying "maintenance free" windows (joke, there is no maintenance free of anything in this world...) that will have to be replaced at ever increasing costs over time or taking your time (or paying others) to maintain the windows that you have. Now to the objection that many will insist, "...single pane windows are so energy inefficient...". Well if you are using well fitted or weather stripped wooden storm windows you actually have a double paned window system that has a far greater air space between panes, and probably equal to a replacement window R-value; and even if somewhat less you have to calculate what is the pay back time frame on the often massively expensive replacement option? The additional bonus is that is they ever "fog up" you just open them and clean it; which is not possible with modern sealed double paned insulated glass.. Pluss your old windows are there already installed and FREE! But if your old windows have already rotted away then you have to replace them, true. Hope this helps someone. Kind regards.

[@sunshinecompany1]

150 yr balloon framing farmhouse... Where I've ripped out lathe and plaster on exterior walls...CAN I PUT FIBERGLASS PINK AND POLY WITH DRYWALL ON TOP?? Can ANYONE tell me?? Heat bill is $800./ Month...I need insulation.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Susan, Sounds similar to our house. What’s the exterior. Lots of opinions out there. Research it, pick a route that you are comfortable with. Thx for watching.

[@nathanaelearl2218]

Roxul insulation not fiberglass with craft paper. You can also have the cavities dense packed with cellulose. It's done all the time in the northeast. Not insulating can bankrupt you in one winter here.

[@adamkebede6015]

But he said roxul would work because of airflow issues.

[@TheMalibubronco]

Did he say rockwool or roxul?

[@joeo6378]

So, as long as I have new siding and new windows, I am going to be good to insulate? this seems like a "insulation shouldn't get wet" issue not a old house issue. A gutter that leaks into your walls would cause issues in any home.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Joe, Old windows were not flashed like today… water can leak from there easily. Thx for watching!

[@ithinkurf]

Thanks for this video. I was about to slap a bunch of glass batts in my walls. Its a single brick home with 2 inch air cap between the brick and the studs. Im going to re think this now. Cant thank you enough.

[@Housebarons]

Thx for watching!

[@lisav1186]

Rockwool doesn't absorb water so can that be used if you want to insulate? i know it's more expensive but i have an arctic breeze blowing on me lol

[@Housebarons]

Yes. Rockwool is great for that reason!

[@sunshinecompany1]

Could you put tar paper on inside then insulation pink and poly?...or tyvek? I don't want to change exterior.

[@loreendall8387]

This is what I am doing to insulate my 80yr old attic. I am cutting strips of dimple membrane to use as a baffle, then creating a sandwich pocket of Tyvek house wrap + insulation + Vapor barrier between the rafters (vapor barrier on the warm side). I am concerned about the vapor barrier collecting moisture so I won't be covering it for a year so I can monitor any changes. From my research I need to keep it breathable and dry, and this is my most affordable DIY way. I am going to have to replace the exterior and interior, and I believe I have balloon framing, so at that time I will Tyvek the outside and add Rockwool to the walls. I'll see how the vapor barrier works out by then.

[@bonniewilson7392]

I have not found it easy to find information on this exact topic . First thank you and I am happy I found this video . Second can you please give me some resources or places I could go to find information ? We have a 1930 ish house off the ground , not sealed , with mold issues in some outer walls . I am helping my 90 yr old dad have taken down the sheet rock and trying to figure the best way for it to not happen again . I hope this makes sense . Thanks

[@jenr3493]

This makes so much sense. Thanks.

[@Housebarons]

Hey JenR, Thx for watching!

[@oliviapolczinski7067]

So if the walls aren’t insulated, don’t insulate them? I have a 100 year old Dutch style colonial house, and I have no clue what’s in the walls. The upstairs walls are wood and pretty straight forward, but the low level has brick structure. I have some leaky windows I want to get fixed, but I’m nervous to open up the wall to see what’s inside

[@Housebarons]

We did insulate. But I was trying to convey the reality that insulating an old house is complicated. There are many factors to consider. But a window is typically framed into a wall ( boards bordering all sides of the window) so you won’t really have to get into the (empty or insulated )wall spaces unless you are making the window opening bigger than the previous window. I hope that helps. Thx for watching.

[@automategames]

cram enough wood in the stove to have a positive pressure with the heated air pushing everything out the seams of the house.

[@user-vh2pk6bd3g]

I used Rock Wool in my bedroom and a vapor barrier over that

[@Housebarons]

Rock wall is great!

[@danielanac5093]

how can we do a partial thermal insulation of an old house if we want the thermal insulation work to be done gradually and partially, over the course of several years, having a low budget and living only in a small part of a house?

[@comfortgreen2865]

Insulations are the problem! FYI the only changes they made, to improve is take out formaldehyde. Don't mean to be (Bad newsperson) The video is correct!

[@techguy404]

My old house is pretty unique. Drafts come in through more than just doors and windows. In some places of the house, draft comes from under where the baseboards will be. Even under the cabinent in the kitchen. It did have a history of being flooded, but for the most part things seem to be fine. Except the random areas you wouldn't think a draft would get through. Also, there were two additions to the place years ago. A second bedroom which needs the shower fixed due to horrible work and wood is rotting, and a larger living room which I call a game room. If I remember, this house was built somewhere in the early 1900's in WV.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Techguy, Sounds like a normal old house. If I insulated, those draft can com in from the airspace in any and all wall cavities behind plaster or drywall. Can even be leaks in new house- just fewer. Old houses are work but you can not match their unique style and design! Thx for watching!

[@zephyrprime]

Drafts coming through more than just doors and windows is typical of an old house.

[@igorilla]

I live in a home that's over a century old, and I've encountered a rather troublesome draft issue. Specifically, it's coming from my French door, which is connected to the exterior-facing wall. When I place my hand near it, I can feel a significant draft passing through. It's likely costing me hundreds of dollars each year. Do you have any recommendations on how to address and rectify this situation?

[@quintaofensiva1432]

What about filling the cavity with slow rise closed cell spray foam??

[@Housebarons]

Hey Quinta, I would double check - still may need an exterior vapor barrier . Thx for watching!

[@ericmueller4801]

1928 home. Climate zone 5A. Exterior is aluminum siding over wood siding and ship lap. No insulation,2x4 balloon. We removed interior wall which was Cellotex lath and plaster board. Pretty much a cane fiber board with two layers plaster. Looking for best option between faced and unfaced fiberglass or unfaced rockwool

[@Housebarons]

Hey @ericmueller4801 , If your wall cavities are dry, then they are either breathing well or no water is getting past exterior siding. Are there signs of water having dried? If I were doing it, and assuming I don't know the answer to breathing vs. no water penetration, provided everything is dry, then I would be tempted to go unfaced - and not change the the previous ability of the walls to breathe. Like we said in the video - a lot of this is judgement call and trying to read your situation and all the variables. Do your best investigation and then best judgement call. You can only decide based on what you know. One consolation - some people just throw anything in there w/o thinking. So hopefully your house is a step ahead there at least! hope that helps a little. Thx for watching.

[@user-vh2pk6bd3g]

I did the walls in my parents bed room and put in ROXUL insulation and a 6 mil vapor barrier, put up new dry wall. Benn go to go since 2015

[@randydeschamps6078]

I pulled the wall apart years ago to find the old galvanized drain pipe which ran 4 feet horizontal in the wall cavity, had rotted and the water allowed to destroy the main house beam,but yes this is plank house construction, large gaps between and the inner wall wainsscott,nailed to a horizontal 2x4 at the bottom also destroyed allowing cold air and rodents in and went undetected for God only knows how long, but same,they put vynyl siding which holds moisture, we discovered had rotted the clad board after the house next door melted a portion of the siding, lipstick on a pig is what i call it!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Randy, So true. Can be quite a surprise when you get into the walls! Thx for watching!

[@CBReal1290]

I enjoyed the general information. However, when referencing the "2inch plugs" on outside of a home, the close up was not well seen. Additionally, at the end I really didn't get a full understanding of the layers you would use from exterior to interior to re-insulate the exiting area to protect from moisture. Otherwise, appreciate you speaking to this topic.

[@Housebarons]

Hey CS, Thx for input and for watching!

[@Alex.smiffy]

Anyone looking at this video should investigate rockwool vs fiberglass. rockwool has many advantages but in this context, rockwool is hydrophobic so moisture that gets in can leave again without damage to the insulation, unlike fiberglass. Also, rockwool is highly fire retardant and critters do not nest in it. Easier to work with than fiberglass too. It is only slightly more expensive and, unlike spray-foam, a good DIY insulation.

[@Housebarons]

Hey B.C. , Much agreed. Rock wool is a best choice product! Thx for posting and thanks for watching!

[@diamondbracelette]

I have a supply of both rockwool and Owens Corning mineral wool on hand for an old house refurb. Putting it in the walls has me crossing my Ts and dotting my I's to make sure it does no harm. I very like the idea that I can use it and reading comments like yours. But question: most people tout Rockwool vs Owens Corning mineral wool. Is that bc rockwool has become shorthand for mineral wool in general? Like saying Kleenex instead of tissue. Or is there a view that Rockwool is superior to other mineral wool, like OC?

[@Alex.smiffy]

@@diamondbracelette I have only used Rockwool brand ( used to be called Roxul) As long as the properties are the same in different brands, I would shop price.

[@aaronramkalawan2232]

Yes, I agree on the rockwool. Just used it on a 1920s tudor I bought in CT. Rockwool you can easily cut to fit into the older cavities and love the water & fire resistant attributes.

[@sunshinecompany1]

@@aaronramkalawan2232 do you put poly on top of it?

[@janisb8064]

What about ridge vents installed in this type of house, I dont think they have those either.

[@redsresearch]

arent we using vapor retarder now instead of vapor barrior?

[@claytonjames4779]

Isn't this why rockwool is a good choice for this kind of insulation because it's vapor permeable?

[@SHEILA-fm5mo]

My house was built in 1923 California Bungalow - no insulation anywhere - neighbors complain they can hear EVERYTHING. The windows are single pane so I'm in the process of upgrading those first, but worried it wont be enough. What should I consider next to stop sound from travelling from my house to the neighbor?

[@fancydoll54]

Gut the it and insulated the walls. How much is your gas bull

[@chueewowee]

Ask them to insulate from their side of the wall.

[@taylorjensen6181]

oh no! please don't rip out those beautiful old windows. They were built to last and if you add storm windows like they do on the east coast or northwest, it makes an even better window insulator than modern double pane windows (since the dead space is larger between the storm window and interior window than the manufactured ones). I would ask a historical restoration expert on what to do. A lot of modern contractors have no idea how to work with older homes and that's how you can end up with a rotting house after it's had little to no problems after 100 years because some guy thought it should be insulated with foam. In california, you are so lucky to have many talented contractors and tradespeople who are dedicated to keeping historic and older homes healthy and functional. Be wary of new products, especially windows, that were made with planned obsolescence in mind.

[@silvarehel]

Hi, so glad I saw this before insulating my 100 yrs old house. The house is built in this order, exterior is built with cedar shingles, then rung and groove boards horizontally, then just the 2x4 trust (hollow no insulation) lattes for plaster and plaster. The roof is newly done with tar shingles, new insulation underneath floor of attic and we just started DIY removing the old plaster revealing the lattes and hollow cavity. I can categorically say that the outside walls are incredibly dry with no water infiltration, no staining, no rot anywhere. This house is 100 yards from the ocean side on a high hill, gets lots of wind, fog and rain so humidity/dampness is an issue. Please help me by advising how I should apply insulation after gutting all interior walls. We live in Nova Scotia Canada. We can not leave hollow cavity empty as winters range from -10c to -20c and being so near to the ocean, humidity is always present. We plan on renovating the outside with Tyvek and putting new cedar shingles. Hope you can help us.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Silva.., It sounds like what you are doing is very similar to what we did. The Tyvek should breathe but stop water from outside. Glad to hear all looks dry. Insulation is typically faced ( paper facing out) - not very complicated. Needs to fit right. Don’t jam it in. Compressing the fiberglass makes it less effective. One bit of advice- make sure the windows are flashed WELL . This old house of ours had many openings around them that needed to be addressed. We replaced all our windows so re-flashing was necessary. But that is a place to check for air loss and water penetration. Make sure Tyvek is well attached to window frames so it’s one complete barrier. Here is what we did w/ the windows : kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKjToaembq-oeMU Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

[@silvarehel]

@@Housebarons made sure we bought lots of flashing for windows connected to Tyvek. My only question to add was should we put a vapour barrier on the inside (poly ethylene sheet) just before the plaster boards. All new houses are built with it in our area. Everything you guys did, we did or will be doing. Inside vapour barrier was our only puzzled area since the Internet is full of pro’s and con’s but nobody explains the science behind it. We were wondering if we should cover the insulation in the attic as well with vapour barrier before putting back sheets of 4x8x 5/8 boards? Thanks

[@Housebarons]

Really good questions. We used faced insulation in the walls ( we understand faced as functioning as a vapor barrier ). In the attic we’ve always done blown in cellulose and not worried about vapor barrier there. Yes. The science is not super clear. In the end we went with our gut. Hope that helps.

[@loreendall8387]

@@silvarehel I thank you for asking this question! I am on the BC West Coast near the ocean and we get LOTS of wind and rain. My 80yr old home has no insulation so I am starting in the attic. I am cutting strips of dimple membrane to use as a baffle, then creating a sandwich pocket of Tyvek house wrap + insulation + Vapor barrier between the rafters (vapor barrier on the warm side). I am concerned about the vapor barrier collecting moisture so I won't be covering it for a year so I can monitor any changes. From my research I need to keep it breathable and dry, and this is my most affordable DIY way. I will also need to replace the exterior and interior so I will add Tyvek house wrap on the outside and wall insulation at that time; probably going with Rockwool but the jury is still out on the VB. For windows I will add flashing as I go, but I want to keep the charm of the original windows so I am making removable interior storm windows out of wood + thick clear vinyl that I can remove in the warmer seasons.

[@silvarehel]

@@loreendall8387 I also decided to start with the attic and working my way down. Enables me to modernize the electrical cables and install a venmar air circulation system. I’ve also installed a whole house dehumidifier in the basement. I never thought of the simple membrane, sounds like a good idea, did you get professional feedback or how did you think of going that way. I’d love a picture of how you are creating this membrane, tyvek, insulation and vaporizer barrier. Luckily for me the house is bone dry because of the tongue and groove horizontal exterior wood panelling with cedar shingles but the north east side needs replacing. That was very interesting to get your feedback. I am also updating with the same style of windows (with the squares) but on the east side because of the view I am going with what is called Juliette balcony French windows (actually Italian creation). We should update ourselves on our progress. Right now it’s attic insulation and rewiring 2nd floor ceilings. TTYS

[@williamstover2842]

Great video...thank you

[@Housebarons]

Hey William, Thx for watching.

[@biblegirl2980]

Thank you

[@Adesico87]

Why not use heavy mill plastic against the outer wall cavity, creating your vapor and air barrier, then insulating? If you have thicker studs, says 2x6. Can you not use 1” closed cell to get your air sealing accomplished, then use with bat or blown in insulation?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Adesico87, I would say there are numerous ways to approach it. The problem is that it is hard to get definitive absolute answers. Oddly, this still doesn’t seem to be a well researched area by science. Thx for watching!

[@bluearcherx]

I think you need 2" closed cell for it to actually count as vapor tight. I am just very reluctant to spray on anything that there is no established way to remove, and makes it very difficult to get access if there is a problem (leaks/etc)

[@sunshinecompany1]

This is what I want to know too and he doesn't answer questions? I was gonna use bat and then Polly on old balloon framing... But poly then bats and drywall may be better?? Nobody addresses old balloon framing much...and what about attic with no software or vents?

[@ronedelenbos272]

You should also mention the real concerns with spray foams and old buildings and where and how too use it. Rainscreens are also an important upgrade should you decide to upgrade a heritage property to modern insulation R codes.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Ron, Thx for the helpful comment and for watching!

[@theonlytruetuhlulah9062]

Rainscreens?

[@ronedelenbos272]

Rainscreen is a drainage and ventilation space on the backside of your exterior sheathing. Using 3/8 -1/2 strapping or a similar product behind your siding you create a space that helps dry the siding and keeps the building dry. Paint and product lifespan is extended as well as maintaining a dryer building.

[@OccultDemonCassette]

What if the house is solid brick on the outside?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Occult, Great question. Not really sure. There should be an air gap between wall and brick. complex figuring! Thx for watching!

[@SheenaRea]

My house built in 1946 has solid masonry walls. First floor has no insulation, and any closets on the outside walls have mildew problems. Very frustrating. 😞Can't figure out a solution. Still researching.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Sheena, Dehumidifier? To get rid of excess humidity? Thx for watching!

[@beefstickswellington1203]

Don't close the closet doors. You're blocking the outer walls from heat, which causes a cold, condensing surface. You'll be paying a little extra in heating bills to warm the closet space, but you'll stop condensation and dry the corner out with airflow, by leaving it open. This also applies to blankets, towels, etc, as they block heat transfer and will allow the surfaces they are touching to condense moisture in-between. The key is airflow that allows evaporation, and enough heat to stop the condensation inside. Outside doesn't matter, since the walls are ventilated anyway.

[@igorilla]

I live in a home that's over a century old, and I've encountered a rather troublesome draft issue. Specifically, it's coming from my French door, which is connected to the exterior-facing wall. When I place my hand near it, I can feel a significant draft passing through. It's likely costing me hundreds of dollars each year. Do you have any recommendations on how to address and rectify this situation?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Igor, There are 2 likely spots : around the door, the trim covers the space between door frame or door jam and the wall. That needs insulation or spray foam. 2nd, the space between door and door frame should have a weather seal, a foam or rubber lining that compresses when the door is closed to make a weather tight seal. Those are the two places I would examine. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@igorilla]

@@Housebarons thanks for your prompt response! So it's a pocket door that slides in and out of a wall rather than swinging open on hinges. And that draft comes from the inside of the wall, which is an uninsulated cold space. No weather sealing whatsoever and not sure what could be done here..

[@automategames]

back in that time, it cost so little to heat the house due to the dollar being so valuable.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Automatic, True! good bye dollar! Thx for watching!

[@GeorgiaRidgerunner]

if your gonna renovate an old previously uninsulated house your just asking for rot the insulation will hold moisture moisture barriers on the inside of the walls do absolutely nothing for preventing rot the best way to prevent an ingress of moisture is to remove the siding and wrap the the house in tar paper thats the best way tyvek will work to but it will cost you and arm and leg remember tar paper is used on roofs under the shingles and its sole purpose is to keep water out

[@sir.cannabis1173]

Wrap the house in cancer And live a healthy life 💪🏻

[@llee2096]

Nothing dries out a house as well as a fireplace or wood burning stove. Interesting how well this old house is without vapor barriers, and with air leaks. Now they want us all to go electric only... Seal up everything they say, then say we need air purifiers and dehumidifiers... Then we build great roofs only to have some cheap solar panels make it look ugly and the installer drill holes into it. 😊 From China.

[@jinmenboxing]

If we are not replacing siding but we ARE fully replacing all windows down to the studs and will be flashing them all around properly, and we have no places for bulk water entry and have spot-treated all cracks and gaps with spray foam so as to as best as possible air seal the house from the inside -- would the risks you have described be mitigated?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Robert, In theory water intrusion from outside might be stopped as you describe. The only other concern is water vapor migrating from inside to out actually traveling through the walls. If water vapor turns to water droplets… that would be a problem . No idea how great a risk this is. As I said in the video there isn’t a lot of great info on this topic that I could find. Lots of differing opinions. Ultimately you have to make a call and see what happens. Thx for watching.

[@jinmenboxing]

@@Housebarons thanks for the reply! Leaning towards insulating with sheep's wool which can handle water pretty well, and NOT super air sealing the walls so that some vapor can still get out.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Robert, Your method sounds well thought out. We are not in the business of insulation. We renovate and therefore have to weigh the information we could find from the best sources we could find. In the end, we opted to follow modern building techniques - house wrap on outside and drywall on interior with new flashed windows, and fiberglass insulation. I do like the idea of wool insulation. Seems better than fiberglass when it comes to water. I know people use rock wool in basements and crawls that are damp. I hope your efforts work well!

[@retromachina5525]

Hi, I have a 1900s all brick building that is built with 3 layers of common brick. Im renovating the bathroom and struggeling to decide whether to insulate the bathtub wall which is a exterior brick wall. The wall before did not have insulation it was just a plaster wall. I been seeing mix opinion's. Som say insulate the wall with no vapor barrior. Im starting to lean towards not insulating at all. Any suggestions? Location is Chicago

[@Housebarons]

Hey Retro…, Three layers - wow! Nice. Typically brick has an air gap between framing and brick. That sounds like a foundation wall. If you can afford not to insulate - it’s been that way, for 100 or so years… why change? That might be the easiest route… The thickness of that wall has some decent thermal mass as well. I’d say you are fine. Thx for watching!

[@moises8war]

I have also heard sheep wool insulation is good at handling moisture

[@cheriedking]

Is applying another layer of gib on the inside to those exterior walls a viable approach?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Cherie? Gib? Thx for watching

[@bluearcherx]

@@Housebarons Appears to be a local slang term for drywall in New Zealand

[@chrissmith-oq5nq]

@HouseBarons what about insulating plank style homes? was going to pull the outer(non structural) planks out & do a vapor barrier then stud a 2x4 wall with Batts in the cavities.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Chris, Sounds similar to what we did except we kept the planks and insulated from the inside. I’m guessing you are insulating from the outside? The water barrier still breathes which allows water to dry out. But one concern - we found major gaps for water penetration around window trim. We put in all new windows and so we’re able to reflash/ weather seal the window areas. There is a lot of debate as to what is best. Do your research till you feel reasonably comfortable with your choice. Thx for watching!

[@chrissmith-oq5nq]

@@Housebarons As far as the inside goes. I will be pulling the inner planks to frame a 2x4, not 2x6 walls for sqft, insulation & electrical purposes. Doing research an snooping around the attic, basement and uncovered walls, me personally, from what I'm seeing is that the inside planks cannot be structural being pieced to make one plank. As far as outside, I uncovered a few windows that were covered up I want back so I'll need to redo siding while placing a moisture barrier and putting the proper coil stock around each window.

[@pcatful]

Good points. But vapor barriers inside and out? The craft paper is not a true vapor barrier, neither is the moisture barrier typically on the exterior. Consult with local architect or contractor regarding your specific climate zone. A vapor barrier in the wrong place is not helpful.

[@user-vh2pk6bd3g]

I use Rock Wool in my 130 year old house

[@Housebarons]

Good choice!

[@laurenfortgang]

Would love your thoughts on a 3 season 1940s cabin in a 5 or 6 zone. Will need to remove the interior paneling and thinking of adding rockwool for some increased insulation before replacing walls with paneling or pine. Thinking it would be best to skip a barrier over the rockwool on the interior side to allow airflow. Won't be using year round but might heat in cooler months. Does it sound right to skip the plastic?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Lauren, Sounds like you are doing what we did. If interior and exterior are permeable, I would not change one side without changing both. Thx for watching!

[@laurenfortgang]

@@Housebarons Thanks for the helpful feedback!

[@architect_talk]

have you ever seen issues where an owner replaces lath and plaster on an old timber frame with drywall? I've heard of a few cases where moisture would collect on the paper face due to the sheet rock being less breathable than the plaster (which I assume was lime based). In that case I wonder what is an acceptable alternative when the plaster and lath has already been removed. thanks for the great content!

[@Housebarons]

Hey architect…, I have not seen it. But considering the 2 different materials separated by 100 years … I guess I would not be surprised. Probably all depends on what happens to the exterior as that factors at least as much as half of the equation. Thx for watching!

[@Jared_Albert]

Tear out the sheet rock tack up some wood lathe and replaster

[@Lwnmwrboy5]

Clearly you need to remove siding, put up moisture barrier, and then you can insulate the inside as much as you'd like. He is right that you need to treat it like new construction which means you need to tackle from both inside and out.

[@Alex.smiffy]

In cold climates, only a vapor permeable air barrier should go on the outside, in the hot and humid south, a vapor barrier can go on the outside. How a wall system goes together is based on the climate where the house is located. One size does not fit all.

[@zackdreamcast]

Time for closecell spray foam

[@MultiFloormaster]

My house was built in 1921 and built well. No foundation cracks, brick still soild, but cold AF in the winter. My heating bill is a little over $400.00 a month in the winter. I'm not renovating it cause that would be way too expensive, so what can I do to help these costs?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mike, Stopping air leaks and adding insulation are good places to start. Hard to say much without KNOWING where to start. Your city or county may have resources / offer energy audits. They look at your house through infrared camera to find heat leaks and suggest best fixes. Most heat goes up through the roof. I added an extra 12 inches of insulation in my attic which now is at about an r-50. Windows are prone to leaking. Could cover them with plastic in winter to add an extra air barrier. Electric outlets are another place to check for leaks. What is your heat source? Is there a more efficient, cheaper, better, or supplemental source of heat that can be added? Basically, none of these are free, but you can chose those which make you money. You spend $1000 to reduce your bill by $50 / month and you are actually saving money in less than 2 years. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@someotherdude]

Studs and either batts or rigid foam on the inside. Yeah, surprisingly, brick and stone are terrible insulators. Surprising but true.

[@soil-play]

Our family farmhouse was double brick wall with air gap from 1840's - never found the homes interior to be cold in winter.

[@user-vh2pk6bd3g]

It's almost impossible to make an old house airtight

[@Housebarons]

Big job!

[@fevenj9517]

Thank you for the educational video. I wish I had seen it before starting this project. We bought a house built in 1900. Unfortunately we have taken some of the plaster walls down already. Since we have seen your video we are not going to insulate. My question is should we keep the lath? and also what do you think about putting vapor barrier on the lath for insulation before putting sheetrock up.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Feven, I’m not sure about plastic / vapor barrier. That seems like it would stop the “breathing” of those old walls. But do your own research. We are not the last word . Lots of people do different things. We just tried to distill that info to figure what made the most sense for us. We are actually covering the old plaster with 1/4 inch drywall. We are using 1/2 drywall on exterior walls bare studs. You can leave the lathe - less waste. But ultimately it will depend on condition. Hope that helps. Thx for watching.

[@fevenj9517]

@@Housebarons Thank you so much for answering my question. I will do some more research. I think that is a great advise I don't think I will go with the vapor barrier.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Feven, Glad to help!

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Consider replastering with a lime plaster. It breathes, it will absorb water (like in a bathroom) and give it up to the atmosphere later. It’s actually a healthy alternative. Definitely keep the lath, if it’s in good shape (usually is) because I don’t know where you could get replacement lath. Modern lath is expanded sheet metal - it might add a layer of complexity to the final wall, an element that‘could’ rust… “All” the old houses in Europe use line plaster.

[@williambarringer9377]

What has a gutter leak damage in a modern home got to do with insulating a 100 y.o. home? Let's stay n topic here.

[@Housebarons]

Hey William, We took the opportunity to look for water intrusion spots rather than insulate cavities and assume everything is water tight. Waterlogged insulation will rot your walls and structure double-time since it can’t dry out. Hope that helps.

[@sarabellaj]

It also looks like the vapor barrier is on the wrong side

[@jodyjohnsen]

I have a 100 year old brick and stone house. I’m taking it back to the studs and insulating the crap out of it with vapor barriers inside and out. Every person I’ve met tells me the house must “breathe.” Seriously! There is no unprotected wood.

[@tylerbhumphries]

I recently inherited a brick house that was built in 1897 but it’s been vacant for 7 seven years. The property was broke into last fall and the doors were left open during the winter in Missouri so all my plaster fell off. It revealed that the bones of the house are still pretty sturdy but there is no insulation. What I took from this video is just leave my exterior walls empty but what about my interior walls (hallways, bedrooms, anything that doesn’t touch an exterior wall). Will it be safe to insulate them?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Midnight, Yes, it’s fine to add insulation there - especially for sound barriers like bathrooms. Typical new construction houses add insulation for bathrooms, maybe laundry rooms, or bedrooms - all for sound barriers. Otherwise it is not necessary for heating / cooling unless you were going to close off a certain section of the house. Our house was wood exterior. Because your house is brick, you may want to do more research and see if what we said applies the same to your house. Modern brick houses have an air / moisture gap between the back of the brick and the structure of the house. That might make a difference for you. Just not sure. If you don’t insulate, the bricks should certainly help you with heating and cooling because of their mass- - more so than a wood exterior house. Congrats on your “new” house - sounds like a lot of work, but fun! Thx for watching!

[@tylerbhumphries]

@@Housebarons thanks for the detailed reply.

[@aaronl7669]

if you haven't done anything yet, look at Green Building Advisor. you can definitely insulate your exterior walls. you just need to do it correctly.

[@maudessen573]

It’s critical to understand the differences between a frame, wood-sided house like the one in this video and a full masonry house like mine. If you have a full masonry building, this video is not for you.

[@bdsman64]

You say insulation will rot the wood, then as an example show us a house with no insulation and a long term water leak into the wall cavity. I think we all know that leaking will rot wood.

[@sir.cannabis1173]

Make your own video and do better

[@botfoblhrp]

😁👍 and people wondering why it costing so much and taking so long to redo my 1900 house thats been added onto who knows when with part being a limeston post foundation . house trys run away in extreme cold of the winter , then relaxes again as it warms. must be why ya gotta go drive the old nails back in. i call it my hobby.🤣

[@Housebarons]

Hey bot, Exactly!! Only people who have NOT renoed an old old house would question. All old house owners get ya! Thx for watching!

[@Alpha-Mike-Foxtrot]

Asbestos is expensive to take out. It insulates relatively well, even if it's 75 years old.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Ben, Thx for watching!

[@uncle_creepy2743]

Over a hundred years ago, pre WW2???? Dafooook how,?

[@corpsmind5920]

Painting the wood wouldn’t work?

[@Housebarons]

Hey corps…, If your wood is in good shape - that will take care of exterior - sure. But we had so many voids around windows as well, which we addressed w/ new siding and trim. But in the end insulation makes a big difference IF you can add it. Thx for watching.

[@Jared_Albert]

Spend 50k insulating and vapor barrier and windows to save 1500/ year in utilities. Only pays if 1) you are immortal 2) you will live our your life in that house3) there is no time value of money

[@automategames]

have you ever heard of AERO GELL??? 1 inch of aero gell it is like 6 or 12 inches of pink stuff and basically fire proof.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Auto..., No. But I'll have to check it out.Thx for watching!

[@theonlytruetuhlulah9062]

Is it water absorbent?

[@martinp3371]

When was insolation invented?

[@martinp3371]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXucpmamebaYg5Y

[@markhoffman]

Yeah, you definitely don’t want bulk water from a gutter leak going into an inside wall. Old, or new.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mark, So true! Thx for watching!

[@mikechan231]

This is bad advice. At 4:35 he starts talking about a vapor barrier for the inside of the house and then referencing a vapor barrier on the outside of the house- you never do vapor barriers on both sides of a wall. If you’re in a northern climate your VB is on the inside, and the opposite if you’re in a warmer climate - and you MUST air seal, so not air can pass through the wall. An alternative would be closed cell foam, or cellulose with NO VBs- allows the wall to dry to either side of the wall. And yes Cellulose does dry out providing you are not encapsulating it.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mike, A water barrier breaths. Vapor barrier doesn’t. Thx for watching!

[@mikechan231]

Ahh, ok, there was a stutter in the video. I thought you meant vapor barrier on both sides of the wall.

[@kuroe-chan5190]

Ugh I just ok’d for someone to put in insulation in my 60 yr old home😩

[@Housebarons]

Hey Chloe, There is a lot to think about for sure. Hope all goes well. Thx for watching!

[@someotherdude]

If you have recent siding, sheathing, and moisture barrier, you're ok.

[@automategames]

"water was running in trough a gutter leak" not at all relevant to the topic lol..

[@athenabrandorocko1090]

Old houses suck. Wow.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Athena, Agreed! Thx for watching!

[@klipche]

what a bad video.... 6 min of talking yet teaching and showing nothing.

[@jeffjohnston4011]

First

[@someotherdude]

First to acknowledge you. I won!

[@dudemister8629]

Thanks for nothing.

[@4thirty2Hertz]

Thank you - great advice!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Kristy, 👍 thx for watching !