How to Maintain Your Blades (Swords, Knives, Etc)

[@tonnywildweasel8138]

"Baby oil, made from the finest babies of course." LMAO there flew the coffee ;-)

[@mediocrewolfsif]

Yeah I wasn't expecting that, actually laughed.

[@ngiorgos]

Lol, this reminded me of a pun, but it only works in my mother tongue If you mispronounce "vegetable oil" it sounds like you said "college-student's oil". Why yes! Just squeeze the oil out of college students! XD

[@charlescox290]

I'm boycotting baby oil. I oppose the use of babies to make oil. If we can't kill baby seals for fur coats then we can't squeeze babies for thier oil. 😇

[@ndld4955]

Mm Johnson's Baby oil never explained why these "no more tears" ..?🤔 Now we know...😌 NO MORE BABY = NO MORE TEARS No 👶 = No 😭 😌👍

[@charlescox290]

@@ndld4955 I don't know, cows can be squeezed to get milk without killing them. Maybe babies can be squeezed to get oil. Still, I don't like this cruelty to infants. 😋

[@mizcs]

if the oil goes rancid you have just added poison damage, its a win win

[@polarknight5376]

Actually rancid oil is perfectly safe. Technically it's even edible as long as theres no actual mold growing in or on it, it just smells and tastes bad. It may make you a bit nauseous if you eat it, but that would mostly be psychosomatic. Same as eating any food you find distasteful.

[@ngiorgos]

In my experience (mainly cooking), the green side of the sponge can damage the edge, even when I'm just rubbing the flat side. So, I avoid it if I can, or I just re-sharpen the blade later. I like the idea of starting with mild abraisives and progressing to more agressive ones only if you need them. It minimizes the wear on the blade. Thanks for the video! Edit: typo

[@brettanomyces7077]

I can watch sword cleaning videos all day. Extra points for sword restoration. I wish their were more.

[@spock_elvis]

Me too, often while cleaning my own sword.

[@s_crylly7751]

Raw, usable, information from an experienced source. Thank you kindly.

[@stayic3119]

I like how I was looking this up yesterday and now pow the best guy puts up a video about it

[@xandervampire195]

Thank you so much, Skall! One of my warhammers was starting to get a bit of rust on the steel part and I thought it was a goner. Then I bought that same Flitz set after watching this video and the polish worked a treat. You can still tell that there was some corrosion damage if you look very closely but the rust is completely gone after only a couple of minutes. I didn't even know such stuff existed but it's really fantastic! Thank you for saving my warhammer (and one of my daggers which I'll be doing next). You are an absolute legend!

[@graysonofthewood3747]

This is exactly the video I needed! Recently got a sharp for cutting and a feder for HEMA and have been wondering how to maintain. Thanks Skall! Can’t wait to watch this evening :)

[@scottmacgregor3444]

If your swords are the sort of nut construction that can be taken apart, every one in a while do that and check the tang. Any moisture that gets under the grips is sort of trapped, and the tang can rust pretty good. Not something that is usually a big problem with a feder you're going to beat up over a few years, but your sharp it might matter.

[@graysonofthewood3747]

@@scottmacgregor3444 both of mine are peened but I will absolutely remember this if I get a threaded one in the future. Good to know, thanks!

[@foxymoronvideos3270]

Flitz polish is really good. I like using that, particularly on my dirtier project swords. It's also a good example of something that you only need to use a very small amount of. It can be pretty deceptive at times, how little you actually need of Flitz polish to do the job you want it to. I've also got Rennaisance Wax and Hanwei sword oil for rust prevention. I try to keep sword maintenance somewhat regular, but I've got quite a few different blades and some are stored more awkwardly than others, making them a little bit difficult to get to. If I ever move house (could do with a lottery win like you would not believe) I'd like to dedicate one whole room to storing my various weapons and keeping them easy to access, so that I can actually keep them in good condition.

[@TatsuoMusashi]

I needed this video! I have a 1060 high carbon bastard sword that I wanted to clean and maintain. These tips will prove helpful! Great video as always!!

[@roffels11-gamingandhistory69]

Thanks for this video, Skal! Cleaning and maintenance are important topics and seeing how it's done helps young re-enactors like myself a lot. I made a huge mistake by cleaning my first sword "historically", by which I mean cleaning it with wine and apple acids and plant oils available in southern Germany during the late middleages. The sword did not rust after this treatment, but the acid attacked and changed and discoloured the blade in other ways. Said sword is still usable, so the "historically accurate treatment" worked, but I don't recommend it unless you want your sword looking "antique" although it is brand new. XD

[@fricki1997]

Thumbs up for Ballistol and linseed oil - my go-to solution for metal and wood. I actually like the smell of Ballistol, and use it either in an applicator pen for small surfaces or in a syringe with hypodermic needle for detail work in mechanical contraptions. Just be careful around linseed-soaked cloth since there's a chance it may spontaneously catch fire. Better to soak it in water after use and keep it in a metal container to be safe.

[@flightlesschicken7769]

That can happen with pretty much any oil soaked rag I think. It's both cool and scary

[@Xaiff]

baby oil made from the finest selection of babies. now I understand why some may get so pricey

[@That_Guy_Nee]

They recoup some of the production costs by grinding down the leftovers to sell as baby powder

[@ScottKenny1978]

I use a mix of clove oil and food-grade mineral oil for steel. 1oz or so per quart. Eventually, once it saturates the steel, even pine pitch will not stick to the blade. I use boiled linseed oil for wood. Takes a while to dry, but not as much as pure linseed oil. After about 6 coats, it's a very good moisture barrier. But that does take 5-6 weeks due to drying time. For leather, if it's new I use neatsfoot oil to soften it up. Old leather gets saddle soap and a beeswax based preservative. I use Scotch Brite pads for heavy rust removal, but you want super fine pads. If you have access to industrial Scotch Brite, you want the white stuff or gray stuff. Gray is equivalent to 000 steel wool, white is 0000 steel wool.

[@jackcorcoran4053]

Love seeing another video by you. It is what got me into blades

[@flitz]

Thanks for the Flitz love Skall! We really appreciate it!! 👍👍👀

[@justinjohnson4920]

Could you possibly do more videos about this subject please?

[@Bloborus]

Man you always have the video I'm looking for and have for years, thank you

[@tamlandipper29]

I really enjoyed this more than you might think, Skallagrim. Turns out I was doing the right things, but I didn't know some of the options, like mineral oil for blades.

[@FirstLast-wk3kc]

I want a vid about how did ancient people (medieval, ancient.. whoever you please) maintain their blades? When there where not any baby oil for blades (love the irony), or leather conditioners and etc. What did they do and what did they use and how did they make their usages?

[@Konranjyoutai]

They polished the blades with the blood of their enemies.

[@FirstLast-wk3kc]

@@Konranjyoutai ironic joke due to the corrosion.

[@Konranjyoutai]

@@FirstLast-wk3kc Why do you think all old blades are in such bad shape? xD

[@stefanfranke5651]

It's very difficult to find records for something so mundane. I think, they used that what was available: olive oil, tallow, bees wax or even some lard if nothing else was available to prevent rust. The simplest way to reduce rusting on blades and armour was polishing them to almost mirror-finish. Look at the painting "Sibbechai and Benaja" by Konrad Witz from the 15th cent! I always cringe so hard when I see knights and soldiers in dull armour in historic movies! Blades were sharpened anyway from time to time. Other methods to prevent iron parts from rusting was to tin them, or if you had the money to silver-plate or guild them. Leather was maintained with dubbin, a mixture from bees wax, fat and resins. Keep in mind, besides some coronation- or treasure-swords, bladed weapons were tools back then. When they were worn off from too much sharpening and polishing or seized up with rust in their scabbards they were discarded, refurbished or replaced.

[@FirstLast-wk3kc]

@@stefanfranke5651 wow, about a half of what you told me I didn't know, thanks!

[@astigako123]

This is some great content Skall! I know you're worried about the views lately, but hey this is great content!

[@SteveRogers0768]

I just bought a replica of Inigo Montoya’s rapier from the Princess Bride, which is the start to my collection of famous movie swords, and then this comes out a day later, safe to say I’m glad I subscribed. Thanks for the video.

[@noradrenalin8062]

Thank you for teaching me how keep my wood nice and moist.

[@nicholasjones7918]

I've never noticed bronze change colour over time like that. It really does look beautiful as it ages.

[@lieutenantcoloneltanyavond8273]

I once had a roommate who, for some reason, didn't mind the smell of Ballistol. Strange guy... But at least I got to clean my guns without regard for him. Lucky me. And yeah, gotta love Ballistol for its versatility. Works for anything, from leather to back powder guns.

[@BeetleBuns]

I use Hoppe's no. 9 solvent for cleaning, doesn't smell half bad. Then lube with LubriSilk, which has almost no smell. Good combo for apartments, so long as you don't accidentally tip the entire solvent bottle onto the carpet

[@zacharymay650]

Yes!! Thank you so much! I’m a new sword owner myself and am very pleased to get some pointers on maintenance

[@nemodrake5254]

This video timed really nicely with the arrival of my first dagger. Been lurking for a while, but always enjoy your videos!

[@ScarecrowsSwords]

I'm actually really glad you make videos like this!! They've helped alot

[@spacemanx9595]

Liking this video for later. I've owned swords for 20+ years now and always enjoy tips on keeping rust off them

[@CyberBeep_kenshi]

I use Ballistol rifle oil which is ph neutral and fiber free cloth from the diy store. Regarding the smell, if you store swords there really is no smell. But ye, windows open! Once used silver polish to remove a nasty stain, just make sure to remove it well. Olive oils etc, go smelly and it doesn't give a thin film like baristol.

[@Cascadejackal]

I recently got some proper blade care stuff, nothing fancy, just a rust remover stick, Wax:On polish compound and Coat de Armour. Cost barely anything, easy to use, and my more rust-prone blades haven't needed the usual heavy maintenance in months because of it. I've also been maintaining some pieces of armor for years, before I ever got proper care stuff for it. In a pinch, you can scrub off very light rust with some rough paper towels, then apply unscented baby oil with a makeup remover pad to protect it, removing the excess oil. It works on blades too, if it's all you've got, but put the time and effort in to get and use the right stuff if you can.

[@frankharr9466]

A lack of maintainence does tend to lead to repair. But it's good to know. I would not have known. I do remember when I took an interest in the condition of our kitchen knives. This would have helped.

[@jonathanwessner3456]

I like Rem oil too. It is supposed to protect from moisture pretty well

[@QuentinStephens]

Looking forward to the follow-up on scabbards and sheathes.

[@generalbyzantine8735]

If you want to use wax make sure it is not acidic. As far as I can tell Renaissance wax is pH neutral.

[@markfergerson2145]

How about waxes like Sno-Seal intended for leather and tent seams? It's mostly beeswax.

[@omariscovoador7486]

Finally a video useful for me after i make my blade dirty with the blood of my enemies! *battlecry* My enemies being mostly water jugs in my backyard

[@AnotherDuck]

They seem to invade a lot of backyards. Good on you for keeping their numbers down!

[@gregcampwriter]

Hickok45 sold me on Ballistol. It dissolves powder and lead fouling while also working as a lubricant.

[@flightlesschicken7769]

I found the smell of ballistol fades very quickly. Basically completely gone in minutes. As for the do not breath, I'm pretty sure that's just because of the cyclohexane and propane propellant. None if the actual compounds that do the work are toxic in any way, so if you have the liquid form then I would think it is fine to use anywhere

[@ilhanthediamondcrafter9767]

As long as its concentration are not too high then yeah it's not toxic. But if given a high concentration of it then it will be toxic. Just be careful while using it.

[@flightlesschicken7769]

@@ilhanthediamondcrafter9767 I've read the MSDS for it. I don't believe they observed any toxicity to it even when they force fed rats as much as they could. Granted, that's not in the lungs and not on humans, but I think it's more likely that any toxicity would be from having foreign material in the lungs rather than anything inherently toxic about the compounds. Sort of like how pure nitrogen gas can kill you by displacing oxygen. Of course everything is toxic if you have too much or it goes in the wrong place. But in the case of ballistol it seems safe to ingest... Not that I'm sure why you would want to with its scent Edit: MSDS is Material Safety Data Sheet. Just in case someone didn't know what I was referring to

[@stefanfranke5651]

It also comes in a "scent-free" version, but since its main ingredient is paraffin oil (highly refined mineral oil) you can just use baby oil. Much cheaper and does the same. Also, every oily substance inhaled as an aerosol isn't so good for your lungs. Also consider when using WD40!

[@ilhanthediamondcrafter9767]

@@flightlesschicken7769 Exactly. I agree. I just want to say to be careful;)

[@flightlesschicken7769]

@@stefanfranke5651 It's more than mineral oil. There are a few other compounds in it where the some of the other effects comes from. For example, it neutralizes acids that chew right through the metal Edit: honestly the neutralizing of acids is a pretty important. Even if the oil starts to oxidize and become acidic, the basic compounds will protect the metal

[@kevinedwards5390]

Thank you Skal this was really helpful to maintaining my blades. I'm looking forward to buying some of the weapons you've mentioned in your channel.

[@sandrios]

this video was perfect, I just got a new knife, got excited and accidentally cut into thumb when cleaning the blade, the cut is quite deep but I got lucky and I didn't cut anything vital.

[@milesmatheson1142]

Awesome video, Skall. Definitely saving this one for reference.

[@josephcouture2838]

Yesssss!!! Awesome info! 👍👍My oil of choice is Rem Oil (Remington "gun" oil)

[@nosrin1988]

I used my new arming sword on some watermelon and cleaned it off as best I could, nice and dry, still got a few tiny rust spots I need to clean now. SIGH. glad to see this video!

[@ozlemashimiyamoto1403]

very usefull vid skall! high quality editing too

[@kraagnjilwulf1413]

I recently cleaned one of my knives and afterward I put motor oil on it, it seems to work well and it makes the blade feel so soft.

[@Dracas42]

I don't know why, but I find maintaining blades to be satisfying.

[@longrider42]

You are not the only one my Friend. Spending an evening or afternoon, cleaning and oiling my swords, I have five, and my knives, I have many, is calming in its own right.

[@michaelblacktree]

I also have firearms, so I always have CLP on hand. Seems to work fine. I've also used silicone spray. That seems to work, as well.

[@a.z7469]

I use lemon oil for my wooden components. I tend not to use anything more abrasive than a cloth for cleaning metal, unless there is rust of course.

[@a.i.a3949]

I dont own many swords but as for all my knives i find that the most bare bones simple way of maintaining/polishing blades that i used to do when i didn't have anything better is by using a piece of leather with a compound for buffing, (if unavailable i used to use the sharpening stone gunk from my oilstone), if necessary some high grit sandpaper or steel wool for rust and then either tool oil or even vegetable oil in a pinch but just dont get that into the joints of a folding knife or in the case of swords a sheath.

[@alexandersarchives9615]

Yeah, that fitz kit is something I used a lot on some of my armor. And it mentions that it’s safe to use on blued metal, so I use it a lot on my blued greathelm

[@Atzay]

This is of absolutely no use to me as I don't need to maintain anything of this kind, but it still was extremely interesting and relaxing to watch! I really enjoy your videos on these more practical and I guess "mundane" topics. Keep up the great work Skall! :)

[@Skallagrim]

Thanks!

[@charlescox290]

Wow, you and Shogo both posting blade cleaning videos on the same day? That's a coincidence.

[@jacobhougham570]

This was very helpful. I intend to get a sword in the future and was wondering how to care for it.

[@davidanderson5259]

Good stuff, Skall...this is why I watch your channel [among other reasons]. A few things about mineral oil...it's great stuff but it comes in a 'light' and 'heavy' grade. The light stuff is what you want...it's used for removing makeup, so look for it in the cosmetics aisle. I do the traditional thing and put a drop or two of clove oil in the bottle to scent it the way the Japanese did. A 500ml bottle will last a loooong time unless you have a zillion blades [like you😛]. The 'heavy' grade of oil is used as a laxative and is too thick and sticky for blade maintenance.

[@MawoDuffer]

Olive and vegetable oils expire fast and turn into goop. I have had a lot of luck with coconut oil and long term storage. Mineral oil is a good one too

[@DarkDao]

I do really weird thing to long-term store my blades, i heat them up a bit and rub natural bees wax until full layer forms. Can be a pain to clean and can oxidize decorative alloys (pure mineral oil or clean nail polish works for them), but steel protection is of industrial grease level and food-safe. Ballistol is really good for general care.

[@timj5031]

I can recommend Rust erasers. Its basically grind particles in rubber. You will get a decent grind pattern with them.

[@AllTheOthers]

Hadn't even thought of the leather. Thank you.

[@dukefanshawe6815]

I use balistol. Good to know other people do too.

[@essenkillerthezombiektz5026]

I’ve found for rust that a cleaning agent called bar keepers friend works extremely well It’s fast easy and effective for any level of rust

[@youremakingprogress144]

Thanks for the educational video. I genuinely found this helpful.

[@ethancohen5336]

Hi I have a Calvary saber with a lot of rust. Would these products help that? I like the video thank you

[@larzpeacock7258]

I've been using differential gear oil on my swords for years, it's great cause it's so thick and stick it doesn't run off the blade. Seems to last forever, I barely ever oil the things and no rust

[@TheSaival]

Anything more on bigger renovation/repairs? I have a WWII bayonet which is in decent condition and I would love to bring it back to its former glory.

[@MrYago-xd7um]

Very keen and enjoyable video, Skall.

[@Подпольщик-и5п]

Спасибо тебе большое! Единственный нормальный ролик о уходе за клинками!

[@freerider3434]

I really like your channel but I've been looking all over it for sparring videos. There are some and I find them very interesting, especially with the commentary. Are we gonna see more of those, maybe as a "more regular" format? Otherwise do you have a good recommendation for a sparring focussed channel, that engages in the same martial arts?

[@kirkmorrison6131]

Too protect my my re-enactments weapons, I use a high grade furniture wax and strip them every 2 or 3 years or clean them well after every use .Remove the old wax and reapply rust hasn't been a problem.

[@MrTaLL9000]

Hi Skal, I wanted to pick your brain about a blade that needs a much bigger clean than the ones you showed in your video. My Great Grandfather had a military sword that I inhereted that has been sitting in a thick layer of grease (That is all through it's scabbard as well), the scabbard and handle both had a thick layer of gunk on them too. Since getting the sword years ago I've always wanted to clean it up and display it but I'm terrified of doing any damage to it. What would you suggest for something that reqires this level of cleaning? Thanks for all your great videos! I've been a fan for years!

[@brianmccarthy5557]

You might want to refer to some of the videos on other channels on how to restore and maintain wooden rifle and shotgun stocks, along with wooden pistol grips. Woodworking channels also have detailed discussions on wood finishes. You're among a minority advocating raw linseed oil, which is also quite flammable. It and the rags used to apply it can spontaneously combust in the right conditions and are the cause of many fires. Be very careful and follow safety precautions when using it. Boiled linseed oil is viewed more favorably by most experts. It still has flammability issues, but any oil would. Tung oil might be the best choice and it's become the oil of choice among many wood workers and maintainers. If the wood hilt is in good condition when you first get it then all that's required for oiling is a cleaned and dry surface. Then a drop or two of oil rubbed in deeply by your fingertips should do it. You can add a few more drops as necessary. Let dry a few hours or even a day then follow by surface protectants; waxes, etc. Like I said consult wood experts.

[@Protologos]

Tung oil is also very good for sealing wood in my experience.

[@marchueltz4993]

For leather I just use leather grease for biker clothes. Works great, is cheap und goes a long way with little. Just warm it before use, so it will get smoother and go deeper into the leather. Don't use too much or it won't go into the leather so well and remove excess when finished or the leather will get sticky.

[@Bacteriophagebs]

Teflon (PTFE)-based penetrant is the absolute best for preventing rust. Use it instead of any other kind of oil or wax and it'll outperform anything else. Liquid Wrench and DuPont make good ones, and Break-Free CLP gun cleaner is similar. You can apply a thin layer and it will stop rust for months if the blade is just sitting there, even in humid places. Unless it's in a leather sheath. Leather will corrode the heck out of blades. For that, you can apply a thick layer, and if you do that, it will last indefinitely in storage. Years, maybe decades. Here's how: Spray a nice, heavy layer of the liquid onto one side of the blade. Use a toothpick or something non-absorbent to spread the liquid all over the blade and remove any bubbles. Flip the blade over and do the same thing on the other side. As long as you keep the blade horizontal and flat, the Teflon will not run off or drip. Put something heavy on the hilt to keep the blade from touching the ground or slanting, and let it dry (a few hours, or just overnight). When it's done, there will be a very faint grey layer over the entire blade, almost indistinguishable from the normal color of steel unless it's highly polished. It will also feel *very* slick, but will be completely dry. Unless scratched or rubbed off, this layer is 100% proof against rust, and it's fairly tough. Even if it does get damaged, there's a second layer IN the metal as well. As I said, for storage, this will last basically forever. For use, the layer will eventually wear or get scratched off, but it's very easy to re-apply. Even so, for a blade seeing frequent use, just rubbing the steel down with the penetrant every so often is all you need to do. It's just a much more effective method of oiling the blade, because the teflon gets into the pores of the steel and dries there.

[@CharinVZain]

Hey Skall, I heard you can also cause wear and damage if you go overboard with maintenance as well, is this true? How would that manifest?

[@devinm.6149]

Seeing as polishing and sharpening both remove metal, overdoing it will harm the blade.

[@ScottKenny1978]

Example: a katana will eventually get "tired" after many, many polishings as you wear off the hardened steel skin and expose the soft core steel. My first real katana did get tired as I was chasing rust spots off of it.

[@stefanfranke5651]

I think that's mainly a problem for very fine pieces or ornate antiques, where you may damage or rub off fine inlays and gold-plating. Would also be cautious with chemicals. Vinegar acid works wonders on my cheap steel kitchen knives but I would be reluctant to use it on a expensive sword. Best way to deal with rust is don't let it rust. :)

[@tasatort9778]

12 oz beeswax 1 cup boiled linseed oil 1 cup turpentine Heat wax in double boiler until liquid, add linseed oil and turpentine. This makes what we call "Blacksmith's Goop" and is used as a protectant.

[@J_to_the_F]

One tip I got for getting rid of light rust on tools was blending walnut shells to a fine powder and apy it with a bit of oil and polish the blade. Most polishing pasts use siliconcarbite or aluminumoxide as grinding material, wich are harder than steel and will therefore remove even a bit of the steel as well. Walnut shells are just harder than rust but won't attac the steel. This is mainly for high prezisision tools but it should be suted for swords as well... and it is cheep😁 PS sorry for my English

[@stefanfranke5651]

Thank you for the tip! Wouldn't be surprised if the people back then knew the same method too. Also scouring rush/horsetail grass was used as a mild polish because of it's high silica content.

[@revzsaz9418]

Thanks Skall 🙏 I feel like not enough people care for their blades in any way much less a "good" way 🍻 Cheers and thanks again!

[@GuitarsRockForever]

WD40 I use it on everything in garden tools or cleaning pocket knife. Works fine for me, and cheap.

[@andreassamoreno4252]

A thing that I've allways wanna ask. Does vegetal oil work?

[@schoolsout15]

I may start collecting/getting into sword practice soon. I may start out with a longsword just to test the waters. If I could afford it, I'd go all-in for a big two-handed sword and get Albion's Maximillian. (That thing looks GORGEOUS.) Also interested in the Gustav vasa rapier by Arms and Armor. Cold Steel's colichemarde has also caught my eye, (I know CS has a thing for being hit or miss, but they are the only company that makes this kind of small sword and I'm very intrigued by it.) I may also consider katanas/other feudal Japanese arms. But I DESPERATELY wish someone would come out with a Naginata or Nodachi. Those would be a lot of fun. The only things holding me back are budget and storage. Do I need a gun case to store swords in, or would I just be wasting money?

[@Fozzedout]

Quality video of you polishing your sword... 😏

[@KaosRunes]

I bought a couple katanas that were being left to rust by their owner at the time. I cleaned them up and have tested them. They'll cut fruit, small trees/branches and bottles, but nothing more. They called to me and I had to get them.

[@frozenironforge5133]

0000 steel wool and any oil are great ways to remove rust without removing or damaging any finish on a blade. This also works for removing rust on firearms and not damaging the bluing on said firearm. Apply oil where the rust is and using the 0000 steel wool (pronounced 4 ought) rub in small circles. Only use 0000 steel wool as that is the finest and safest (less aggressive) way to remove rust without removing the natural patina or finish on the blade. Mineral oil is the best, it doesn't go rancid.

[@fistsofsnake5475]

Question about lether. Shouldn't you use difrent stuff depending if it's real or fake leather?

[@Riceball01]

I personally use Break Free CLP for everything metal/steel. It smells a little when it goes on at first, but tit's not a bad smell and it fades over time.

[@outsideiskrrtinsideihurt699]

How was weapon maintenance done throughout history? How did people in medieval times polish their blades? I think that would be a cool video

[@georgepatton6195]

with the blood of their enemies!

[@NodDisciple1]

Will you please tell us how to maintain (leather) handles and scabbards/sheaths too please?

[@scottmacgregor3444]

Is my kit contains food grade mineral oil, WD40, synthetic steel wool, Peeks metal polish, and a small metal file kit for burrs. The synthetic steel wool is the bit not everyone knows about. It works better than scrub pads IMHO. I do have to do a lot of cleaning due to living in a moist seaside climate, but I don't have that many swords to maintain.

[@_boney]

Can you do a Video about resharpening swords? A new one with easy tools maybe

[@lystic9392]

Any special advice for black blades?

[@zeonb]

D= now I need a video on how to mantain armor, bought a templar helmet months ago

[@kleinjahr]

If you must use steel wool then it should be at least OOOO. Use it with a bit of oil is also helpful, it helps remove the scrum.

[@robinrehlinghaus1944]

This comes to the absolute best time

[@joshbingham212]

Very informative! Thanks!

[@someguy3861]

Baby oil is just mineral oil with fragrance. One family size bottle will last longer than you will ever realistically need. Mineral oil, however, is not very good for leather in particular.

[@spook407]

what, it's not made from babies?

[@someguy3861]

@@spook407 babies have minerals, don't they?

[@lloydcastleton]

I am curious about the first picture you showed when you mentioned getting a sword. I have one with the same guard and pommel pattern. It's decades old and I was wondering what the name of it is. Anyway, good info Skall! Thanks

[@steventhegamer7187]

6:09 Indeed, there's definitely other things to make all oily and wet and then put them in a scabbard, but that's a discussion for when you're older.

[@drenek1]

If you want something more solid than oil to use for wood and leather, you can make your own "wax" : - 1 part real bees wax - 2 parts mineral oil. => Melt the wax using the double boil method, add the oil, stir and pour in an appropriate container ready to use. Very efficient and cheap.

[@LABCHiMP]

What a great, informative video.

[@Xianxin]

Love this video! Thanks Skall!

[@LetholdusKaspyr]

Excellent video. Very useful.