How to Make a Circular Saw Guide / Track Saw Guide

Today I am building a new version of the circular saw jig for cutting plywood, MDF, melamine and other sheet goods but this time I am changing the fence position to ensure better cuts at the start and still finish the cuts with straight even edges every time and using the Freud 40 tooth blade in my circular saw.
This circular saw guide works as a track saw, for nowhere close to the price of a buying a brand name track saw.
******************
Circular Saw CrossCut Sled: • Portable Circular Saw ...
Circular Saw Jigs: Cross Cut Jig & Ripping: • 2 Handy Circular Saw J...
Using Circular Saw Blades on a Table Saw: • Using Circular Saw Bla...
******************
NEW ++++ WOODWORKWEB T-SHIRTS here - teespring.com/...
**** Read the Full Article here on Circular Saw Jig - goo.gl/fUzvbJ
**** Subscribe here - / knecht105
** Like me at Facebook: goo.gl/DLgvoa
** Visit the website: www.woodworkweb...
** Follow on Instagram - / colinknecht
** Follow on Twitter: / woodworkweb

[@mavwrik4605]

If I may? This video was just recommended to me by KZbin. I have been a working carpenter since 1977 & my Dad was a carpenter who started me in carpentry long before I choose it for a career. Your design is easy enough to make, but I have a better idea that is not any more difficult to build. Your design still introduces the chance of miscuts, as shown in your video. When I made mine I took the main piece of ply & picture framed it on all 4 sides. The inside dimension is the width of the Circular Saw base + about 2 sheets of paper thickness just so it's not too tight. Then I just put the saw inside the picture frame & plunge cut running the saw the entire length. The saw can not move off line to either side. I also drilled 1" holes centered on the cut line in the track so when you lay the guide on what you are cutting there is a sight hole if you will to line it up on your marks. This also gives you the ability to clamp your "track" on both sides & not just 1 side like yours. Anyway FYI.

[@wanderingwade8877]

Thank you for this video! So far all of the other 'make your own track saw guide' videos use a table saw to make true cuts to start the project. I don't have a table saw. I have very few tools, but need to cut plywood sheets. Yours video is the winner! Thanks again.

[@roberthoyle6442]

Colin,. I have been using this jig for along time. I struggled with clamp placement for a while and finally had that "ah ha !" moment. I have been using that rubber drawer liner to hold my work while sanding and wondered if it would hold my circular saw jig. It held great, with no movement of the jig on the piece being cut. I have been using this for a couple of years and have not had a problem even once. ( they sell this stuff in woodworking shops, but saw your money and get some in you grocery store or Walmart)

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching! I'll give it a try!

[@bbrachman]

I made one of these. It works really well. No calculating the width of the sole and distance to the blade. One addition I added was some anti skid tape to the bottom of the jig. (a very thin foam with adhesive on one side) That way it does not slip easily when setting it down and then cutting. I cut outside, on the ground, with 2" of foam insulation under the wood.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@dennisseemann571]

Thanks, Colin, love watching your videos. I have been using the same jig for several years, I built mine so that one side of the fence is set up for my circular saw and the back side of the fence is set up for my router so I can cut long dados or rabbits, even chamfered a table edge with it. In addition, to get rid of the clamps, I always catch my cords on them, I have placed a series of slots along both sides and I can use stop blocks to clamp to the wood underneath. Clamping with the saw side when using the router and vice versa. Again many thanks for all your videos.

[@knecht105]

Those are some great tips, Dennis. Thanks for sharing them and thanks for watching!

[@shazm6357]

Love this. As an elderly female living alone but semi remote and having to do many odd jobs myself, this is fantastic and saving me half the price of what I would have paid for a basic plunge saw.

[@chucketienne481]

Thank you so much for this video! I am a novice and was having trouble using my circular saw to cut a straight line. I put together the jig you described and it came out beautifully! Thanks again for your videos.

[@huwdavies5264]

Another great instructional video that explains how to do things in a way that is easily understood. Liked the fact you took the battery out as well for safety. Thanks Colin

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@jimb2758]

Colin, thank you so much for all the time, your talent, your attitude, and everything that go into every wonderful video you make. My question is, since you make the original cut that mirrors your fence, at 7:28, why would you try to compensate for the thickness of the blade? My logic is that the original cut already does that. Let us know if my logic is sound or doesn't hold water. Again, thanks for all you do!!! : ) -jb

[@roncooper6302]

I made two many years ago, 8ft and 4ft. I have seen a modification where a router can be used on the other side of the fence. I wished I had thought of that! Best regards from very wet England.

[@thomasmarliere2505]

I wish I had someone like you in my family to spend time with 😌

[@CAMOTEDIGGER]

i feel you..😔

[@thomasmarliere2505]

@@CAMOTEDIGGER Thank you 🙏

[@JohnDoe-jc3cl]

@@thomasmarliere2505 Yes. Same feeling here. At least I have my church family now

[@D1G1TALSYNAPS3]

Colin, I hope you’re still here in 20yr. I thank you for all the videos you have made. I will use them to teach my son about woodworking.

[@knecht105]

I'm glad I could help and I sure hope I'm still here in 20yrs! Thanks for watching!

[@makemarker]

Great stuff, not enough kids use their hands to build stuff nowadays.

[@mikekeyworth9650]

Excellent idea, took no time to make and will be invaluable in cutting down 2.4m sheets. Thanks from London

[@MarkMcCluney]

This is the sort of thing I use too. Mine is a bit shorter at approximately six feet, so I can hang it on the back of the workshop door. Incidentally I use mine with a thick sheet of polystyrene foam as a sacrificial material which gives support to the offcut piece - no chance of it breaking off at the end of the cut. Thanks for that Colin, always a treat!

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip, Mark and thanks for watching!

[@MarkMcCluney]

WoodWorkWeb Actually mate I saw Tim Hunkin do the sacrificial foam thing. Very clever I thought.

[@ron5935]

Have used one for 30+ years. Made 8 & 4 foot ones. Works great. I might try to make a double guide one, one left side, one right.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@mundlkalli4396]

Thank you ....simple and clear language.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! none of all these technical jibberish terms. lol just two pieces of woods and a few clamps... Nice video

[@OldJoe212]

Very good. I've been doing this for years. If you have more than 1 Skil saw, be sure to write the name of the saw on the jib so you grab the right one.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@robertomarques54]

I glued a sheet of sandpaper in the bottom of the jig. Avoid slipping. Just for the records.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@annafrohling4689]

I just made a new one because my old saw died. Wish I’d seen this video a week ago. That offset is a great idea. I will incorporate it on my next one. Thanks

[@1959jimbob]

Once again, a wonderful diy/how to. I learn much from you and I appreciate the sawdust out of it all. Keep up the great works and diy projects. It helps many many more than you realize and I for one are extremely grateful for you and the works you do to help us learn.

[@MoranGuyVideos]

7:15 one thing to mention , when you measure out the distance from the far end , you need to make sure it is square , otherwise the cut wont be square . I found it the hard way. another thing is that always cut on the waste site of the line.

[@colrodrick8784]

Hi Colin Thanks again for the advice. I had made one of these type maybe 18 months ago when (if you can believe it) my woodworking skills were even worse than today! I made it using 18 tooth blade and not a factory edge. I also made it a lot shorter. I can see some real benefit from starting with the max teeth and factory edge like you did. Time to revisit the exercise.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@baribearsd]

Colin - This jig does work great when you just want to cut off a small amount from the edge of a piece of material. When the saw drifts off the guide slightly, you can just go back and re-cut that section. Perfect cut.....BUT, when you want to cut down the middle of a sheet and use BOTH remaining pieces, you don't have that luxury, especially when the jig is in the middle of a piece of sheet material. You need to find a jig that locks the saw onto the track. There are several designs on KZbin that will accomplish this.

[@soundboy89]

Sounds interesting, could you point to one of those designs?

[@nicholasvachon4244]

Hello. Thank you for the video. I made the jig and it was not working: I was getting crooked cuts and I was fighting to get the saw to cut properly. I looked again at your video and wondered what you did differently. Then I realized you had a good saw. Mine was an old saw from another user so I went to get a new Makita. Now it works great. Everything within a 64th so far and straight cuts. I also marked the edge where the saw cuts in case I nick it with the blade so I know not to take my measurements off of there. This also solved the problem I was having about the particle board I was cutting chipping upwards.

[@TheAussiePirate]

Colin you always leave me more better educated after watching your videos. Thanks!

[@ambiorix2010]

Carl Alm Florida has

[@zaledalen9931]

Brilliant, Colin, as most simple things are and I end up slapping my forehead saying why didn't I think of that. I have been marking my cuts an inch and a half, the width of the narrow side of my saw base, from the line I actually want and then grabbing any old relatively straight board to use as a guide. Needless to say my cuts are only approximations of an accurate straight line. Worse, the saw ends up riding on the narrow side of the base if I'm cutting near an edge. So thank you for this. I'm off to buy a sheet of plywood.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching, Zale!

[@stevej00]

Colin. After I saw this on one of your old videos from you (I think it was you) I made one out of a cheap aluminum straight edge screwed on to a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood. It's a total go to tool!! - if it was you...Thank you!

[@knecht105]

I have used this on other videos, but I'm far from the only person. But, you're welcome anyways! ;)

[@Grandpaw2511]

Howdy Colin. After I saw this I made one with two usable sides. One for my 7 1/4" circular saw and the other side for my 4 1/2" saw. Works like a champ. Thanks for uploading this.

[@Samurai9901]

Simple but effective. I need to make another one for my cordless circular saw.

[@kennethrand4877]

I've been using a jig like that for years. I use one edge for my circular saw and the other edge for my router with a 3/8 straight bit. Got the tip from NORM .

[@alienworldshop]

I have seen a few different designs and this one is the easiest way. Great video and channel my friend, thankyou 👍

[@imout671]

Make sure the fence is wide enough that the clamps clear the motor.

[@D1G1TALSYNAPS3]

lol. I wish I had read this comment before making this fence, now I make my second fence.

[@AlipashaSadri]

haha! I was about to write the same thing :D Learned the hard - read: in the middle of the cut" - way :D

[@robertwatkins8980]

Sounds as though we all went to the same school. LOL

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@johnmontague69]

No need for clamps if you glue a roll of that Non Slip Rubber onto the back. No need for track saws, this is OLD SCHOOL at it's finest.

[@michaelsheahan7157]

Great video. Makes perfect sense and is both economical and practical. Thank you.

[@edwaggonersr.7446]

Very good idea to off-set the guide a few inches. Bravo!

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@timbeao9405]

Thank you my friend, i made a version to suit my work and my circular saw..but yes , very useful and well explain the gist of it...Track on!!

[@beardedwoodsman9294]

Can’t beat those old school tricks

[@Stahlmankustomkarpentry]

I just attached a straight piece of plywood or wood to a 6'x28" sheet of scrap 3/4" plywood and set it farther in than shoe of the saw to be the fence and just ripped the excess off rather than doin all that measuring. Its 100% accurate that way

[@tricomputing]

I wondered why he didn't just attach the piece he cut off along the edge then use the saw to cut it off exactly to size.

[@ladykenja2700]

- Colin, thanx for sharing this simple but very useful jig.

[@robertallen8542]

Could you do a video of how you organize and store your jigs? My shop is a little small and organization is critical. I loved this video on making a track saw jig.

[@hawkercnc8261]

Great video I noticed my de Walt saw seemed to tighten as I went along and try to wander. Using my digital vernier the blade is several degrees out of parallel with the rectangular guide base edge. The hinge which attaches the two bits also has some play. Not something that I have seen anyone measure or discuss before. It is about 3 to 5 degrees out! A bit of fixing is clearly in order with a bolt, lock nut and shims - groan!

[@alfredomarquez9777]

Most circular saws are of flimsy construction and come with either a too flexible sheetmetal baseplate, or come misaligned from factory... But some can be adjusted with shims and patience!

[@lindam.9282]

I made one like this a few years ago, but I left enough of the board on the opposite side to use the saw going in the opposite direction. That side of the saw is not as wide, so I just cut off the excess on that side. Works great.

[@cirocompagno6199]

Thanks for sharing. I debated buying a track saw. Instead, I saved my money and made a 4 and 8 ft. version. I have used many times with excellent results. It was not obvious to me first. The reason for 3/8 in. plywood is to end up with 3/4 in. thick jig (on the one side). You can go with 1/2 in. plywood if you are OK with the added weight. For this, I believe lighter is better over time.

[@cspann831]

Thanks Colin- Great idea offsetting the fence. I've made a few of these. 4 foot, 8 foot one for cordless one for corded (they're backwards) and I stuff them in the joists when not in use. They do wear out but they're cheap and easy to make. Not sure why anyone would buy a ready made one.

[@knecht105]

I agree, for the price and time, it's well worth to make your own!

[@timkarcher6724]

A true track saw keeps it in place without applying pressure to one side like with this type of guide. That is the one benefit of using a track saw that this doesn't have.

[@cspann831]

@@timkarcher6724 I see... like a panel saw on rails that you clamp to your sheet. . I've never seen one up close

[@timkarcher6724]

@@cspann831 The sort of ride a rail that goes into a notch on the bottom of the saw so it can't move right or left but you can lift the saw off the rail

[@rosuw3732]

Better idea than clamping a 2x4 as a guard rail. Cheers

[@marcbuteau6122]

I've had these for years now. I use them all the time. I made an 8' and 5', both for my circular saw. I also made a 3' that fits my circular saw, and on the opposite side, I can fit my jigsaw.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@bereantrb]

I have a 4’ jig that’s super portable & gets a lot of use (my favorite way to trim doors). I also adapted the concept to make a pair of jigs for my trim router to make dados (I clamp them facing each other, the space in between is the width of the dado).

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!

[@edbianchi8839]

Bravo !!!!! AccurAte, simple, and INEXPENSIVE what else could you ask for? Thank you, thank you thank you.....

[@ronnagar]

Excellent demonstration & tutorial. enjayed very bit. Keep it up. Thanks

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Awesome guide track for anybody's circular saw. Thanks for the knowledge Sir

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@titodejesus6238]

I usually enjoy and understand your videos because they are quite clear, organized and easy , this one...not so much.

[@seanhewitt2521]

Great idea on staggering the fence thanks

[@tahirmughal5100]

Looks like accurate jig i will try it thanks for sharing the video

[@livewiya]

nice details with advancing the fence and reversing the boards

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@Dutchshedwoodshop]

Very simple and easy solution. made one a while ago. works great. Thanks for sharing!

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@jGoodloejr]

Colin,all should remember that each saw needs its own guide ,as they don't all have same shoe size!

[@billygreen1557]

I am a lefty, so I have a hard time making straight cuts. (laft hand circular saws are expensive). I guide like this really helps me. :) Thanks.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@CaseAgainstFaith1]

Weird. If you are a lefty, righty circular saws should help you make straighter cuts with the blade being more visible. Many righties prefer lefty circular saws for this reason.

[@grahamallen3941]

Great idea thank you Colin, I have got one to make this coming weekend. Take care Graham 🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@knecht105]

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

[@stevej00]

I would also add that while at it you could use the other side for the 1-5/8"(?) Side of the saw foot. (obvisouly the opposite guiding edge would need to be true). This also provides a little bit more space to have a clamp at a slightly lower hieght than the guide.

[@billprocter942]

Didn't understand why you compensated for the blade. Really enjoyed the video.

[@MintStiles]

Bill Procter depending which side you want to keep, yes. But I think he was referring to side being cut off.

[@TheMindverse]

So simple! Love it!

[@micheltobon]

I added a small piece of wood at the bottom of mine, it helps me keep the ruler to square and helps me clampt everything in position, specially for larger cuts

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@nobull-dozer3356]

Thank you for showing us this simple technique.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@johnwhitley2898]

Neat tool! I like the idea of the length- 7', 8' -no issue. I am also making one from another channel that is 5' to 6' long, and boxed/reinforced. Great accuracy with the 5' and less range. Cool tools! Thanks again! Added to this!!! As comment!!

[@johnwhitley2898]

Had a "brain issue", lol! One Minute Work Bench is the other channel with the "short" guide. Neat guide for the shorter cuts that happen. I am making both guides, as I see I will have a use for both as applied! Simple and Great stuff for the shop!! Thanks for sharing the details!!

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@decocatani]

Hi Collin! I've benn watching your videos for a long time and I'm always surprised on how you can be so objective and straight-to-the-point in your explanations. It's a pleasure to watch and a great way of learning how to work in my shop. Thanks a lot!

[@jamies8973]

Once again, a great tutorial. Thanks for the inspiration!

[@peterfong8777]

Good simple guide tool, thanks for your ideas.🙏

[@woodlandparadise6002]

On the other side of my fence I cut using my favorite straight cutting router bit, so it can be used with either

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@shamsularfeen1676]

So simple, yet so effective. Just loved it.❤👍

[@dubbled8752]

I will have one in my garage today! Actually i will have 2 of them. I believe a 3 or 4 footer would be helpful too. Thanks.

[@knecht105]

I hope they help! Thanks for watching!

[@horselover3112003]

Thanks for the nice idea I've just made it and it turned out great

[@adambrowne4602]

So i built this jig and it works for plywood, but i'm having trouble doing detailed cuts because I can't keep the 2x4, etc. clamped down because it isn't wide enough. Can this jig only be used on material that is longer than the jig itself so it can be clamped?

[@TheWoodYogi]

Thank you for this Colin :) It reminded me that I need to make one of these and a nice simple and you demonstrated the process really well. Blessings ॐ

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching. Wood Yogi!

[@sabicsepregi6521]

Nice and clear. Thanks Colin!

[@pcofranc]

ONE important condition that was left off -- the base plate **MUST** be parallel to the blade and only one of my circular saws is. Drop the saw or putting other stuff on it or failing to keep it in the protective case will result in a warped base plate. This will cause the saw to dig in to the guide or pull away from it. The solution - you can make a base plate out of wood a table saw and screw it to the bottom of the saw once it is parallel to the blade - down side is increased thickness. Also, tilting still happens -- moral of the story? there's nothing like a track saw and table saw - circular saws are for rough in accurate cuts on very large sheets like plywood.

[@alfredomarquez9777]

An even better design can be created by attaching an aluminum profile on top of a base made with some sections of 'Engineered Floor" material, but fabricating an aluminum baseplate "sled" that can be precisely aligned to the saw baseplate and "hooked" on the aluminum profile, which will prevent any deviation of the cut to any side. Now, the second problem is VERY REAL: Almost all circular saws come with a lousy, too flexible and flimsy baseplates (or more properly, the depth of cut adjustment mechanism is too weak and deforms under any downward pressure applied to keep the saw in close contact with the guide and the material to be cut!). My Makita 5008MG saw is especially flimsy and is too easy to get the blade tilted if you hold the saw handles with any varying downward pressure! Thus, I have achieved better, more 90° cuts by not holding the saw auxiliary handle, but keeping the downward pressure by holding the baseplate directly with my hand on the front edge of the baseplate, away from the blade, and just pushing the saw horizontally at the main handle with my other hand, avoiding any downward pressure on any of the two handles, which results in flexing the saw support and throwing out the verticality of the blade and the cut. A more definitive solution, is to heavily modify the saw, adding aluminum reinforcing strips to make the saw more solid, like adding a second depth adjustment curved strip to add rigidity! That won't be as easy for the average guy, but those like me, with more enterprising capability than money, will prefer that over paying a lot, to get a smallish tracksaw with limited saw blades variety and availability, and reduced maximum depth of cut.

[@VicsMedia-jy3ly]

Many and sincere thanks for sharing !!

[@abderrafiezerrad8571]

you r the best one my friend you r so simple

[@cobberpete1]

Thanks Colin. I have two jigs, one for my battery and one for power. A couple of thoughts.. I have stuck router mat/ shelf liner on the underside at intervals to assist in non slip. my fence is pretty wide so that I can put clamps on and not have the saw motor body hit the clamps while cutting.

[@knecht105]

That's a great idea, Peter. Thanks for watching!

[@briangalyer857]

I built one of these and glued sandpaper on the bottom. this prevents the jig moving when cutting

[@beergardenfree]

Great trick, Thank you for the video.

[@rbell38340]

Great video. Thanks

[@ИгорьПолилов-и8у]

Какой порядок в мастерской. Это надо заниматься только одним делом, столярной. А если что-то просто творишь, то нужна и сварка и болгарка, и тиски, и провод, и зубило и ещё сотня наименований инструмента.

[@АлексейСанакин]

Мене понравилось твоя выдумка! Просто и быстро👍

[@chrisgriffith1573]

I have been doing this with a simple "L" made from two strips of 3/4" birch ply, the "L" shape is so I can clamp it into place, and keeps the straight edge rigidly straight. The "L" is low enough to clear the motor of the saw, and reminds me of clamping it correctly, nothing worse than getting to the end of a cut to find a clamp blocking your path. I never saw a need for the sled part of the jig when I can measure 1 1/4" off of my cut to find the line for the guide.

[@anthonyanthaudainea3499]

All your ideas are awesome, I have been following you on Twitter KZbin and other social media

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching, Anthony!

[@kenolson9943]

Finally one that doesn't take a month to make!

[@stefanrees8738]

Great idea! This week I bought a Makita 5008MG and the old jig won't fit. Thanks for sharing!

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@jgriff19861947]

All ways very good ideals you explain things so well.

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@DJSHADDY2K7]

Very helpful information 👌

[@barbra429]

Can you please tell me what that little measuring pencil tool you used is called?

[@yinglyca1]

Great vids.

[@boyscout419]

Thanks Colin, for the great video. I too have the same question as Ian's below. It seems that after you've finally cut the base of your jig using the fence's factory edge, you no longer have to consider blade width; the cut on your workpiece will be exactly along the jig's cutting edge. Did I misunderstand?

[@dwightl5863]

It all depends if you are cutting off the waste side or the keeper side.

[@markmayfield3488]

Would it be simpler to cut the fence, fix it approximately in place, but a liite too far in, then run the saw down it to make it perfectly true?

[@makemarker]

Lovely video sir, enjoy how well you explain everything.

[@jamesallen6007]

As always, excellent.👍🇬🇧

[@chappahx]

EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@slerickson01]

Just made this yesterday, use today. Wondered though why bother with screws vs brads and glue since it's just a shop jig.

[@pieteri.duplessis]

Simple great idea, thank you - Dumpster Darlin, you are, of cause, spot on.

[@DRJMF1]

I prefer circular saw with blade on left hand side so that I can more easily see the pencil line. I need to cut accurate cross cuts across 4x4 inch timber to prepare mortise joints, depth of mortise trench is 2 inches. Is there a jig that can help, or do I just run the circular saw against a speed square ? Great video, thank you sir.

[@johnpalladino7339]

I use 1 1/2" angle iron (5' and 9' lengths) and C clamps when I'm cutting 4x8 sheets of material. I protect whatever material I'm cutting w/ scrap lumber. Its quick and always straight. The iron is my fence.

[@christianpetersen1782]

I have used angle iron too but found it wasn’t dead straight! Also it doesn’t provide a cutting edge to line up with the cut line; a bit more measuring req’d.

[@aaudain1]

Awesome great job