How to Make a Cross-Cut Sled

[@woodwhisperer]

Please read the note in the description that explains an error I made in the video.

[@johnwalters96]

This is a great video and it will help me in my work. I have read your comment above explaining the mistake you made in the discussion. I am a little confused though. First, in your explanation I am not sure what is right and what is left. Second, I am not sure exactly what the mistake/error was. You made a correction using the feeler gauge and then measured the error in the fence. You calculate a 0.001" error! Was that right? The correction was to "push" that end back was that the "right end" or the "left end" ? Did you actually improve the fence placement in the video or not. Sorry I am confused here. I get your point that using the feeler gauge is one directional but I am not sure where your original discussion went wrong.

[@mikecurtin9831]

It's really easy to get confused there. That's why William has a plus and minus in his formula. Easy fix, though. :-) Thanks for this. You added a couple of touches I hadn't thought about. Thumbs up to crush a troll.

[@merchantbankers]

@@mikecurtin9831 I'm still confused too. If the back end of the test piece was wider than the front, that means that the left side of the fence would need to go forward. But Marc actually moved that side BACK and yet ended up with a more accurate cut. That's what I don't understand-because adjusting the fence in the wrong direction should have produced more error. So why wasn't that the result???

[@mikecurtin9831]

@@merchantbankers You are correct. He didn't show his proper correction in the video. Also, when you're using the feeler gauge, the further you can get it away from the saw blade (the longer the baseline), the more accurate it will be. The best explanation of the 5-cut method, and funny, to boot, is by William Ng himself. Look on KZbin for the 5-cut method by William Ng. Using this method, you can get better than most machinist's accuracy quickly and easily.

[@ateliergray]

After listening to old episodes of wood talk, the only error I see is all that stubble.

[@ellendrew1942]

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzbin.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

[@johnkelley5093]

I really enjoy watching you at work. I am a retired college professor and have used woodworking to relax for many years. You have taught me many new methods to utilize in my woodworking. Thank you for being a good teacher. John

[@beyondlimitsproductions1468]

This is by far the BEST tutorial Ive found on making a simple tablesaw crosscut sled! Especially the 5 cut method simplified.....Thank you soo much!

[@JohnUk65]

yep hes the best....

[@oldschoolsmart]

First time the 5 cut method was explained to me AND stuck. Great talk through.

[@kbwoodworker6217]

Great explanation of the 5 cut method! I never wanted to use it because it seemed too complicated. Easy peasy now!

[@earthslargestdatabaseofwoo724]

woodworking plans for sale

[@oldschoolsmart]

Ted's is the biggest scam I've ever encountered, bar none. Don't.

[@TheJosuetico]

HI: I been looking at various videos to learn how to make this cross-cut shed, and by far you have the best instruction. Your detail, clarity and verbal speed is perfect. Thank you so much for taking the time for a well done professional training video. I will be looking forward in seen more videos.

[@jeremyzietz]

Actually, I think zardiw was correct in their initial thinking - this video seems to have the adjustment direction backwards - a very key aspect. If my calculations are correct, the left side of his fence must move forward - not backward. This small detail is hugely misleading, and actually sent me down a long and confusing path. A second opinion on this is William NG's video, which is inverse from this video. What also didn't help, is that the wrong was is more intuitive. Feel free to check this, or let me know if I'm missing something. Certainly, this would be worth editing the video if true. Thanks for your helpful videos.

[@woodwhisperer]

It's also important to read a video's description. :) I recommend doing that before embarking on any build or at the very least, once you confront an issue. And especially on my videos, it behooves you to check out the post on my website for additional information, resources, and discussion.

[@jeremyzietz]

Thanks for the tip. Of course, I missed it. Cheers!

[@Marmit42424]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You have a well balanced personality which works wonderfully as a teacher. Not too fast, not too slow, not boring, not jumping all over the place. Well thought out. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@normanjohnson6918]

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[@normanjohnson6918]

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[@normanjohnson6918]

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[@2bmade-projects594]

Thanks Marc, I've been referring back to this video with every saw I build a sled for. This comment is 10 years later.... Just evidence of a great video! I first saw it maybe 7 years ago. Thanks again brother!

[@mahmoudhosny8881]

Hi , it sounds like you’re an experienced sled-maker that might be able to help a beginner like myself 😬. Instead of cutting the wood from underneath, the blade raises the board (to cut the kerf of the blade in the middle). I tried to add some weight, even clamping the board to the table saw and nothing worked. I tried to go slow but still didn’t work. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to change the blade the table saw came with? I’m using the Dewalt DW7485, so I’m assuming it’s powerful enough? Please help 😂

[@SvenPHX]

Followed your method for building a sled. Tried two other ways previously and struggled. Anyhow, first attempt I got the fence within 41 thou (4 times the error) and dialed it out with a 10 thou feeler gauge. Great tip! Now there's no measurable difference over a 14" 5 way cut.

[@spamboli]

i noticed another benefit of the cutouts on the fences - they aid in keeping your hands clear of the blade. a very worthwhile feature!

[@woodwhisperer]

The rear fence is only there to hold the base together and nothing will ever reference from it. As for gluing, the only pitfall is the inability to make an adjustment, should you ever need to. Wood expands and contracts and things move. Someday you may need to replace the runners and it isn't likely you'll get the new ones in exactly the same location as the old ones. With a glued fence, you're out of luck.

[@tazenter66]

Awesome! I will be building this very soon. Great instructions & very nice delivered, very clear & simple. Thanks so much!

[@woodwhisperer]

Any finish should slow down expansion and contraction. But I'm not sure it would make a huge difference in this situation. Also keep in mind much of the finish will quickly wear off with use. And you can use sandpaper, but it isn't as accurate as a scraper. Any plywood will work for a project like this. As long as it is flat and stable.

[@robertfinnegan1323]

A 9 year old video and it's still the best crosscut sled video that I found, thank you!! Building one tonight!

[@woodwhisperer]

You can do this, but you really would want to make a second sled. if you change the bevel angle, you will lose the zero clearance benefit on 90 degree cuts, which would suck. So I'd suggest making a second one specifically for miters.

[@zardiw]

Earlier I thought the fence should be moved in the opposite way as in the video. But your video is correct. What was confusing was 'Front' and 'Back'....I had them reversed. Maybe better would be Away and Close, or Back and Fence side....At any rate...I've adjusted the fence.......and you are not gong to believe this, but I can post pictures if you want. After 5 cuts, the Away side is .759 ...and the Fence/Close side is also .759 .......Am going to phone the Pope at the Vatican and report a miracle....I even very lightly sanded the piece cut to make sure they were both smooth.......there is NO Difference in the measurements.....lol......z

[@christophergalicki4343]

I believe the geometry will show that if the cutoff is narrower at the front than the back the way he marked them that he should have moved the other side of the fence back.

[@woodwhisperer]

@techoer1 Not really. I like to make mine roughly the size of the cast iron portion. You can really go as big as you want, assuming it is nice and stable. Drawback being the bigger you go, the harder it can be to move on and off the saw.

[@salense1]

This wood used in runners is originally from Brazil, here called "Roxinho". Greetings from Brazil.

[@lyricderbin1169]

I did some research on it. Apparently it's so common there that you guys use it for construction. Much like we use pine here is the USA. Pretty damn cool!

[@woodwhisperer]

@linuxguy42 Definitely nothing wrong with that. But if your fence is made with decent thick stock and your screws get a good bite, you should be fine. Seems like an interesting precaution to take though. I'd like to see someone try that.

[@BookofIsaiah]

For me, this is the BEST, most thoroughly explained, video tutorial on this subject!!

[@woodwhisperer]

There shouldn't be much movement to worry about, but it's not a bad idea to seal everything and then apply a good coat of wax. Just don't apply too much finish as you can cause the sled to be too tight.

[@ZappninLLP]

Thanks! Great video. I appreciate very much your very patient, clear narrative.

[@veronicawilliams8056]

Check out these great woodworking plans here: HootWood. com

[@woodwhisperer]

I'm guessing it is only for the sake of a blade guard of some sort. If the fences are tall, I suppose it would stabilize the structure. But ultimately I don't think it's a necessary addition.

[@MrANGELURI]

you are so perfect for tv is not even funny, your explanations are easy and clear, you are very knowledgeable, your voice is perfect and you seem to love teaching, you need your own tv show, let me make some calls for you, you are one of my favorites

[@woodwhisperer]

Just durability. If the MDF holds up, there should be no issues. But the cross cut sled has to be lifted onto the saw repeatedly and the stress on the fence could be an issue.

[@zurdo5038]

great vid.. I did all the steps and worked great, I use it for shelves for cabinets, dovetail parts. so they got to be really squere.. but one thing I did find out, is that the wood runners expand with cold temperatures..I'm from oregon. and it gets cold. my sled got stuck and I had to sand the little wood runners..I did not wanted to remove them.but I realized the solution is using some aluminum runners that are sold in woodcrafters. they fit perfectly because they are ment. to be use for feather boards ands and jigs. I have a porter cable contractor table saw.. I just wanted to share this it might help when it gets cold..

[@redbach23tube]

Hi there. How did you fix the aluminium runners? Did you glue it then screw?

[@zurdo5038]

screw them upside-down into the plywood..has to be at least 1/2 inch so the screw doesn't go through.

[@zurdo5038]

yes what I did. I lined up the board. and I drew a line in the middle of the table saw grooves. and drilled 2 holes up and down insert crews. there's some aluminum runners that you have to insert through the groove.(screws not to tight because the board and runners lock.. you'll find out.) good luck

[@nohabs15]

Kreg makes a jig fixture bar # KMS7303, its aluminum and is made to work in tracks

[@woodwhisperer]

OH yes. Shooting boards are old as dirt but usually used with hand planes and not a tablesaw. But a great fixture to have in the shop.

[@CosmasBauer]

Great video! That really helped to figure some things out like the aligning. Thanks man!

[@woodwhisperer]

You can make it any size you want. Just don't make it too much bigger than the saw itself or it can become unstable.

[@tonymahony4357]

God bless metric system :)) Anyway good!

[@woodwhisperer]

I only used that because it's what I had on-hand. A friend of mine gave me a bunch of scrap from a big job he did. It's not something I would normally seek out. So I would say you might just be better off with a double stack of baltic birch plywood. Two layers glued together should do the trick. Just be sure to clamp them down on a known flat surface to ensure the final assembly is flat enough for use as a fence.

[@birdbandit9]

Honestly, this is one of the most informative and we'll explained videos I've seen. Thank you.

[@woodwhisperer]

there's always a chance for kickback. A guard won't prevent kickback but certainly might help should kickback occur. So many folks do include guards on their sleds. Fortunately, sleds aren't really prone to kickback since the workpiece is gliding on the sled. But you should still be using a splitter/riving knife with a sled to stack the cards in your favor.

[@marthalofton1848]

My husband is wanting to make one of these sleds. so yours is the one I have printed for him.

[@woodwhisperer]

@will76736 The real trick would be making sure your blade is cutting parallel to the miter slot on the bandsaw. Most don't. So you might need an adjustable fence than can be calibrated whenever you need to. But sure, its definitely possible.

[@woodwhisperer]

Hey thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately I don't have a whole lot of advice to give since those t-slots can be a real pain in the butt! If there is enough room there, I would probably try to create a runner that reflects the shape of the slot. Only problem is if you aren't careful during use, you might easily snap off part of the runner. I wonder if anyone makes metal versions of runners that would work?

[@Fine_art_aerial]

Excellent video!! Im forsure gonna make one of these.. But why clamp the stop to the fence and add a inch?? Why not just use the fence?

[@woodwhisperer]

It's just a safety precaution. Having the workpiece between the blade and the fence could cause kickback. So it's a little safer to use a stopped fence as demo'd in the video.

[@MyCubanoLibre]

Because with the stop clamped to the fence by the time the piece to be cut reaches the blade there will not be contact between it and the fence preventing binding.

[@woodwhisperer]

hard to say without testing it out myself. But if the sled isn't stable by the time the blade hits the wood, you're gonna have issues. So do what's needed to make sure the sled has minimal wobble by the time the blade is in the proximity of the wood. You might also consider putting a rolling stand in front of the saw to give you a little extra support.

[@modestmaking5314]

Only you, Marc, can make a 20 minute video about a cross-cut sled interesting. This video is quite aged so it's doubtful that you're even going to see this comment. I'll still post it though because I'm that good of a guy.

[@woodwhisperer]

And I'll answer, because I'm that good of a guy! :) Thanks for watching, man.

[@modestmaking5314]

HA! This made me laugh.

[@woodwhisperer]

@kennjak generally speaking, most folks do remove the blade guard. If you have a simple riving knife or splitter setup, you shouldn't need to remove it. But if you have a plastic guard and anti kickback pawls, you will need to remove the guard assembly.

[@burnnfly]

Made a new sled using Williams five cut calibrating system and ended up with .00037 to square -- way beyond what I was hoping for.

[@boyabelle3248]

lead me lord

[@BennettPictures]

There is a new master to follow

[@woodwhisperer]

You are correct, but I doubt it will really impact the results enough to be concerned with.

[@Oogaboogafantasys12]

fantastic. 1st time woodworker since high school roughly 60 yrs ago. I can't get enough of these instructional videos. I am presently working on building a shed which is testing me with 30 degree and 60 degree cuts using only a circular saw, table saw and a mitre saw. Could have used the sled to cut those angles right? I'll be a faithful viewer. regards Alfred rules

[@woodwhisperer]

@IrishWoodDoctor The front fence helps hold the unit together and keep things rigid. So I definitely recommend using one. I don't feel there is really any need for a handle, unless you are using hold downs and clamp to secure your pieces. And you can make your sled as big as you want, but it becomes very difficult to handle the bigger it gets.

[@joshthomas7999]

I'm going to stop my KZbin search for how to build a sled. This was the second video I watched.This is a great tutorial. Wreggits.

[@woodwhisperer]

Yeah I think so. Lots of people keep multiple sleds, dedicated to things like miters/bevels. So there's no reason you can't do that and the results would be quite good. Just clamp the workpiece to the sled and you should be fine.

[@woodwhisperer]

And character limit preventing me from closing with a thank you. I appreciate the kind words.

[@woodwhisperer]

@ronemarshall if you look hard enough, you should start to come across some with guards. Some people like to have them as an extra safety precaution. While I do consider the sled fairly safe, it is definitely safer with a guard. But I personally prefer no guard while employing safe practices.

[@TheJoeGrosso]

This has been driving me INSANE for days: After doing the 5 cut test, his 5th cut is thinner at the front (he marked the front as farther away from his body) and wider at the back (closer to his body) and then says "since it was thinner at the front and thicker at the back I need to bring the left side of my fence towards me just a hair"... Shouldn't it be the opposite way????? I just built myself a table saw sled and am at this step and my 5th piece is narrower at the front (farthest away from me) and wider at the back. It seems i have to move the left side of my fence AWAY from me... shouldn't he have to do the same??? I'm soooo confused!!! Help!!!

[@woodwhisperer]

+Joe Grosso Hey Joe. The correction was posted in the description. :)

[@psimann]

+The Wood Whisperer Thanks Marc

[@TheJoeGrosso]

+The Wood Whisperer OMG i'm so stupid. Thanks for letting me know. i should have read the description.. didn't think to do that.

[@loloent]

+Joe Grosso mines is the same so do I move the right side of fence or the left standing in front of sled

[@andrewbrorherton6898]

I'm at this part as well with my sled. I was on my way to get a feeler guage and thought the same thing. Lol

[@woodwhisperer]

Well, you could just use a miter saw. Other than that, you'll need some side support either in the form of a table or rollers. Check out the video I did called Frankesled, or something like that. Should give you an idea or two.

[@fishmac2036]

What are your feelings about using aluminum for the track?

[@Ferndalien]

I was thinking as I watched the section on friction from the runners that, if you can afford it, steel or aluminum miter bars would work great. There are several companies that sell woodworking tools and parts and aluminum bars for miter track sliders. If you want to get adventurous you could contact a local steel supply and ask about small quantities of 3/4 x 3/8 flat bar. I'm not sure just how close to 3/4" their 3/4 inch flat bar might be.

[@woodwhisperer]

I don't see why not. As long as you have a miter slot, you should be good to go.

[@SilentGloves]

"Here's an item you need and can make yourself when you first start woodworking." *uses thousands of dollars of specialized equipment to make said beginner item* 😜

[@DYI]

Agreed. The equipment he used to make it was unrealistic for most people to own so he should have restricted himself to more basic tools.

[@theoldoakvideos]

@@DYI he used a table saw,not much point making a sled if you dont have one

[@DYI]

The table saw and drill were fine to use, I was referring to the band saw, table planer and huge sanding table. Even using the exotic wood for the rails with really tight tolerance requirements was tough. I found another design that uses simple wood rails that just rest against the outer edge of the table sides instead of using the guides. Maybe not as precise, but easier and quicker to build. Don't get me wrong, this was an excellent video. The design just was not for everyone.

[@theoldoakvideos]

@@DYI i know what youre saying but novices like us just have to adapt,i dont have an electric plane but iv various sanders and a straight edge

[@woodwhisperer]

@whitedeer22 I would use a couple sheets of ply glued together. But 8/4 hardwood will work too. But wood tends to move over time so you may need to make an adjustment. That's why I prefer the plywood.

[@gooeytarballs]

Curious - Why not Teflon plastic for the runners given the concerns related to humidity?

[@gooeytarballs]

Ooops, I didn't read the written stuff either! e.g. "UHMW runners are awesome"

[@franzflores2492]

Gooey Tarballs l

[@Jarrettmonty99]

Okay so I spent probably 20 minutes figuring this out but I'm almost certain the fence was adjusted incorrectly. Using the terminology from Mr. Ng's method there was an error of (.8 - .82)/ 4 = -5 (thousandths), so you should have pushed the fence forwards, not backwards. In comprehensible terms: your fence is too far back; suppose the left side was 45 deg back and your block flush against it. When you make the cut, you'll have a triangle: small at front (top), large at back(bottom); In fact, your situation is the same as Ng's example in his video.. not sure how you ended up closer though! Otherwise a helpful video

[@Jarrettmonty99]

so strange.. I never saw the katz-moses comment, but did just now. and actually read the description lol glad to see you corrected it

[@SisyphusTwo]

This video won you a top lawyer as a subscriber. I just wish you Americans go metric !!

[@woodwhisperer]

I wish one of my videos would just win me a top lawyer! You guys are expensive! :)

[@dylconnaway9976]

SisyphusTwo Yeah, I think we technically have, but it obviously wasn't binding. It is just such a massive cultural shift. 320 million people have grown up using a system that they are so familiar with, and billions of USD in consumer goods, road signage, etc would need to be changed. Truly adopting the metric system probably won't happen anytime soon here. We will both just have to continue with the conversions.

[@iikingsoulvii1447]

I grew up with metric but have worked with both imperial & metric in a professional capacity. The guys on site have always spoken in imperial - the guys in the design office have always spoken in metric. I prefer metric - but get that a 2x2 is easier to say than a 50x50. If I'm roughing it out I talk imperial, if I want accuracy I talk metric. Here in Canada they specify 22mm dia holes for 3/4" bolts - mental.

[@Firebat45]

3/4" is 19mm (or near enough).

[@John-vm1ou]

The Top Lawyer gives you Top Marks! Toodaloo!

[@davidstanden480]

Love the 5 cut method. Being and X mechanical designer, I could chase after those last few thousands of inch for hours. Your .00125" per 20" length was remarkable or crazy good as you said!

[@woodwhisperer]

@ccccen No need to remove the riving knife if it is a true riving knife. But you will need to remove the guard for this. Just make sure you put it back when you're done! ;)

[@woodwhisperer]

Yes, but i never used it for runners. Might be a good option. I know I have heard of folks using it for runners with good success. Just never tried it myself.

[@woodwhisperer]

sure, but in reality it probably doesn't make that much of a difference.

[@andybrown8981]

Lok'tar Ogar! for the horde! I think its time i made a cross-cut sled it is defiantly something i could have used in the past and will use in the future. Great and simple design!

[@tombackes9557]

Geat vid. I will try to make a cross-cut sled according to your design.

[@curtisz789]

Thank you for the great video!.....I use super glue (CA) and wood glue to attach the runners. The runners are shimmed up 1/16 or so above the saw table. Lay the cut to size plywood down using the fence as a guide. Then press down on the plywood to make a tight contact with the super glue and hold it for 60 sec or so till the super glue is dry. Then you can add screws to the runners from the bottom into the 1/2 ply.

[@woodwhisperer]

Usually just some wax. But keep in mind I live in a very dry climate.

[@woodwhisperer]

Well, TV presents a lot of limitations and a lot of other cooks in my kitchen. A video like this is a perfect example. 22 minutes on building a cross-cut sled would never fly on TV. Once my show goes through the TV land filter, I'm not sure how many people would really enjoy it. At least on line, the videos are free, available on any device, and can be as long and detailed as I like. So I really have no plans to enter the world of TV, but our shows are available in many public access markets.

[@harrykline3998]

Marc, you have an amazing way of explaining the what and the why, and along with the videos it makes for a brilliant learning experience. I'm building out my basement shop now and this is on my "must do" list. Thanks for doing what you do!

[@carpinpedia]

Mmm... in a cross-cut sled you only can make two types of cuts: good and wrong. In the wrong cut you always will have the front of the strip thinner than the back because you push the sled away of you. To fix the fence use a carpenter square, one side in the saw blade face and the other in your back fence. Make the corrections you need. Mmm... en este tipo de accesorio uno solo puede hacer dos tipos de cortes: buenos y malos. En los cortes malos la parte frontal siempre medirá menos que la parte trasera debido a que uno empuja el carro, no lo jala. Para corregir el error de debe usar una escuadra grande de carpintero, un lado se pone a un costado del disco y el otro en la guía trasera. Hacer los ajustes que se requieran.

[@pauladamson4296]

Hands down the best video I have ever watched on reasons for building and the actual build of a cross-cut sled. I feel confident that I can build one now, based on your great video! Thanks for sharing.

[@woodwhisperer]

haha thanks. But I am getting more and more gray hair everyday thanks to my 8 month old bundle of joy. :)

[@woodwhisperer]

They should definitely be parallel, just in general. And yes you can only one miter slot if you have to.

[@erniereyes2831]

i am using Bosch GTS 10J table saw, what is the dimension of the table saw outfeed should be, PLEASE thanks

[@woodwhisperer]

@guerd87 Like I said in the video, a "game changer". I love my MFT and for making nice square cuts on larger sheetgoods, its hard to beat.

[@woodwhisperer]

Definitely a good idea. I usually just use clamps and that works quite well but I can see the value in a built-in clamping system.

[@RtsWillH1Mself]

great video! I learned a ton. what kind do of wax do you use?

[@woodwhisperer]

Not if the length of the workpiece exceeds the capacity of the fence. It's just another option in the bag of tricks.

[@woodwhisperer]

@ccccen oh its early....I was referring to usage with my previous answer. For initial setup, yeah, you will want to remove the riving knife too.

[@woodwhisperer]

@ccccen You can, but you do sacrifice some stability by not having the fence in the back.

[@woodwhisperer]

@Hildenbrands Both are great options. I just went with hardwood to make the sled as easy to build with standard shop materials. But definitely nothing wrong with giving your runners an upgrade.

[@jimjamieson5382]

great how to use the 5 cut method regarding the mitre slides I used a plastic chopping board bought from my local store regards forfarian 25 Scotland

[@m3rdpwr]

I made one and did the 5 cut method. I read it as being accurate to the millionth, until that is I put in the other screws to lock it down. Before I locked it down, I did a second 5 cut check and was amazed. Unfortunately every time I tried to re-calibrate it, those final screws kept screwing it up. Now I don't have any places left to try putting in new screws. lol

[@affromma]

Okay, I used the "other guy's" design for my Super Sled but I used your method for the final 'squaring up', 11 minutes into your video. On the baseline cuts, my 5th cutoff was 0.068" fat-in-the-back [just as yours was in the video]. Even though it ran counter-intuitive, I moved the left end BACK the 0.017" ... and compounded the error. In my second try, I went back to the baseline [the same holes that gave me 0.068" fat-in-the-back initially] and moved the RIGHT end BACK the 0.017" ... which reduced the error to 0.009" fat-in-the-back"; on my third and final try, I scootched in another 0.003" RIGHT end BACK and got the error down to 0.002" over 96 inches. A very happy camper. So, what I really want to ask, Marc, is this: isn't there an error in the video? A simplistic way of looking at it [and where my 'intuition' undoubtedly came from] is using a miter gauge to cut a 45; cutting off the square end leaves the cutoff piece "fat-in-the-front" and when you move the miter gauge back to zero [left side back], the "fat" disappears.

[@steelcityvibrations7770]

Benny Hannah I was just thinking the same?

[@woodwhisperer]

@jonahguitarguy So I have lots of powermatic tools....do they own me, or do I own them? ~Evil grin~

[@tdsviper]

Man, i need a real tablesaw. It's so quiet. And you can actually use sleds. My Dewalt jobsite saw is way too loud and the alu top doesn't work well with sleds... :(

[@smkibler]

Why does the aluminum top not work well with sleds?

[@viniciusgago8773]

Man thats the most tools I’ve ever seen used in a single video…

[@SeanAnderson]

Foremost ... excellent video/tutorial! When you're making the runners (to fit the slots in your table top) it appears that you have made them 'flush' with the table top. Would it be better if they were to sit proud of the slots by a hair? I think that this may provide a tiny bit of lift for the sled, reducing the friction against the table top, but not so much that it's going to suffer any warp. Reason I ask this, is that I am planning to make a new one for my saw, but my table top isn't quite so polished as yours, so may suffer a little from friction.

[@christopherdahle9985]

+Sean “Vire5cent” Anderson No, go the other way, if anything, you want the runners to be well clear of the bottom of the slots, and for the base of the sled to be fully supported by the saw table. Otherwise the sled will tend to deform and either crown up or drop down along the cutline. I make my sleds with the runners about 1/16 thinner than the depth of the miter slots. Lots of cabinetmakers cut their runners shy and then lay a couple of dimes in each slot to shim them up during the process of attaching them to the bottom of the sled. Friction on the table surface shouldn't be an issue, but if it is, hit it with a Scotch Brite pad and then buff it up with some paste wax or Boeshield.

[@Captainwonderlad]

Carpentry videos help me poop. Also just got a new hand me down table saw that needs a new sled.

[@buckmetta]

very important tips - I'll do it (the sled) for my DW 745 - thanks

[@edwardholmes91]

Snap, looking to build a sled for a DW745 too :)

[@TheAbledGardener]

What a great instructional video on making a sled for my table saw. Mine will be for using a dado blade and cutting edges for bee hives so I'll have to add a few extra pieces, but I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed this video and I'll be using it to make my sled for sure, thanks again, Kim

[@martypaulcombs]

The video helped immensely! I spaced my rails by laying 4 strips of paper across the channel and pressing the rail into the track. I then cut off the strips of paper so they would not affect the plywood resting on the surface of the table saw. This guaranteed that after attaching the rails that I had space equal to the thickness of a piece of paper on the sides and bottom. The rails slide smoothly.

[@woodwhisperer]

I don't know that I'd say it's "wrong" so much as not as accurate as it could be. But honestly, it's close enough for woodworking.

[@jml01309]

I was wondering what you think about the new combination saws.....like the hammer from the felder group.....or any other brand for that matter.....I am thinking of getting back in to furniture making.....and trying to evaluate getting a combo machine vs all individual machines.....thanks for your thaughts

[@TyroneJester]

that was a great video, very helpful! keep up the good work, this really helps us newbies out alot! i know it did for me.

[@wjvlodek8769]

Dude...I know you made this 9 years ago...but that was a great instructional video. THANKS!!

[@woodwhisperer]

Could you give me more information? I don't quite understand.

[@brett328]

Just sheer theoretical musings here.... .005 over 24" because the cut off piece is 24" long. BUT... Your pivoting the fence between 2 screw holes that are most likely not 24" apart. So make sure to factor in the ratio between the cut-off piece length and the distance between the 2 screws on the fence. And not to nitpick but since I'm nitpicking, when you placed the 5 thou spacer between the block and fence, it effectively moved the fence 5 thou from the most inner point of contact along the fence and block. That looked to be 4 or 5 inches inward from the pivot point of the screw. But who cares, its already more accurate than is realistically correctable. I just like to over think stuff, its my thing.

[@rgallagher6829]

Thank you for all the great woodworking videos you have shared with us. I had been using an old radial arm saw for my crosscuts but it's travel was too short for some cabinet work I was doing so I decided to make this sled pretty much as shown in the video. Once I set it up with the five cut method and started using it I was amazed at how much better my projects were fitting together. While I do check the calibration on the radial arm saw it will not cut as accurate as this sled. I used oak for the runners as that was the hardest wood I had. I made the sled in winter when the weather was dry and when summer came sure enough the runners swelled and the sled bound up. Using your marker method I was able to fix it quickly. I live in Florida where the humidity can change dramatically. I plan to experiment some different plastic materials to make runners in the future. I highly recommend the methods shown in this video to anyone planning to make a sled.

[@woodwhisperer]

@tzkelley Sure, but its a lot more work/cost.

[@notamouse5630]

A good solution to the seasonal wood expansion problem is to use plastic runners. These can be 3d printed or machined as easily as wood. One can also make them segmented and use a wedge and glue method of alignment of the whole sled, thus obviating the reference side tuning and the possibility of the later screws warping the reference edge. The other option is to use Osage orange AKA Bodark wood because the oil content probably prevents moisture infiltration. Hence the reason Bodark was used for Bows.

[@kevo1264]

I realize this video is 8 years old but you are such a fantastic teacher, I really appreciate William Ng's videos and he is such a genius woodworker but I had issues following his video when he was explaining his 5 cut method and that is probably just because of my limited brain capacity, the way you explained it really made sense to me, thank you yet again sir for teaching me something.