How To Make A Generator Exhaust Extension Kit

In this video, I show you how to make a generator exhaust extension kit. You can extend your generator's exhaust by following these easy DIY steps. There is no welding involved and all of the parts can be easily found at your local home improvement store and amazon. This allows you to get the exhaust fumes out of your generator enclosure, garage, RV, etc. In this video I was creating an exhaust extension for a Cat RP12000E generator.
Products Used In The Video:
Exhaust Flex Pipe: amzn.to/30rLzen
Gasket Maker (rated up to 700 degrees intermittent): amzn.to/34hJLGz
1 Inch Floor Flange: Found at your local home improvement store
1 Inch Threaded Galvanized Steel Pipe: Found at your local home improvement store
Tools Used:
Angle Grinder: amzn.to/3qV0JEt
Drill: amzn.to/3gR8B53
Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/308of4Q
Safety Goggles: amzn.to/30afFTb
DISCLAIMER: Thank you for watching and for subscribing. You can support the channel at no cost to you by using one of the above affiliate links. This helps support the channel for new content.
Blessings,
Adam
How To Home assumes no liability for damage or injury. How To Home highly recommends using proper safety procedures and professionals when needed. Our content is for entertainment purposes only. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How To Home. How To Home will not be held liable for any negligent or accidental damage or injury resulting from equipment, tools, electrical, fire, electronics or any items contained in this video. Attempt projects and repairs at your own risk.

[@michaelcunningham8582]

You did a great job on this video. All these arm chair quarter backs with their comments only have the ability to make the comments because you took the initiative to do the project. Nice job. Thank you

[@dreamsteelgarage8418]

Great job and here's a tip, drill your flange holes first so there is plenty to clamp on to, then cut it. It will be a lot easier.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

That’s a good tip! Thanks for that and the feedback.

[@pwnedbybilly]

That was my first thought too 🤣. But still worked in the end. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@dougierotten]

And if you screw up the holes, you didn’t waste all that time grinding.

[@williammarvin8365]

Another thing you might not know about. I do fire suppression in commercial buildings and they make a caulk that is called fire stop or some say fire caulk and it has a very high temperature rating and it would actually be a good sealant for joints like your exhaust flexible pipe. It has to get up to close to a thousand degrees before it degrades and even still we'll seal I used it personally on a joint on my wood stove flu pipe and it's awesome 😎

[@southern_merican]

good to know

[@TWTH]

Great job. However, I would caution users to make the rigid pipe portion as short as humanly possible. If you extend the slender exhaust from the muffler any appreciable distance, it will create non-trivial back pressure if the diameter of the pipe is not vastly increased. I do not have the software necessary to simulate it, so I arbitrarily used a 2 in flexible exhaust repair section, then transition to a 4-in semi rigid aluminum dryer duct. You may wish to use an insulated furnace pipe thimble, when your pipe passes through your structure. Keep up the great work!

[@mikeh.8155]

this is what I was worried about!

[@dennisdumas1734]

This is what I used on my 12,000 watt generator, was worth every penny I paid, and it cut noise output by better than 50%. It sits on a concrete pad I poured specifically for the generator, with a piece of rubber on top of the slab (made from an old pickup truck bed liner. I built a roof over the generator out of corrugated fiberglass roofing material that is attached to two pieces of 2 X 2 tap coned to the building with a angle cut 2 X 2 attached to the free side of the roof back on a 45 degree angle to the building attached again using tap con’s. I also bolted the generator frame to the slab with 2 - 1” EMT conduit securing brackets, w lead shields into the concrete using security bolts. (Making it harder for someone to steal.) To further lesson noise emitted I attached 1” rigid foam board to a couple pieces of exterior grade plywood and made a free standing “L” Shaped wall 4’ high for both sides of the generator open to the yard, which I can place about 3’ away from the generator as a noise shield. The generator is placed in a corner of the house, so two sides are facing towards the block wall. Located about 75’ from the road. When running at full load the generator cannot be heard from the road. In a SHTF situation you need to make your generator as inconspicuous as possible as you do not want to attract thieves. It’s also a good idea to place a person as a sentinel who is armed standing guard in the event someone comes skulking around. I’ve made it almost impossible to steal it having bolted it to the slab, the generator also weighs in at 217 pounds so it would take two guys to lift it into the back of a pickup, after somehow removing the bolts securing it to the concrete slab. I’m contemplating adding a box fan as supplemental cooling. gensilencer.com/

[@jmackinjersey1]

I like the way you made that part to attach to the exhaust flange. But you may want to keep in mind that your generator will be vibrating, and that long piece of pipe will also be vibrating. The flexible pipe will be a better option for you, because the long pipe will put stress on the connection that you just made, and break something on the generator, because the pipe is not the weakest link in that chain. That is why there are rubber motor mounts on this generator, and on most vehicles, there are flexible couplings on the exhaust that allow the engine to flex/vibrate and the exhaust to flex on its own. So only have a 2-3 inch piece of hard pipe, then use your flexible hose/pipe. Also, don't forget to use a piece of metal or some other piece of fire proof material where the exhaust exits the dog house wall.

[@purplesocks9745]

Real nice job on the shed build. I just came across your channel, so that’s the reason for the late response. Quite a few of the questions asked we’re about adding a muffler to the exhaust pipe that you fabricated. Mufflers are available made specifically for generators, as opposed to using a auto muffler. While a muffler will help with reducing the sound, a significant amount of the sound actually emanates from the vibration when the generator is placed on a hard surface. A rubber mat of some type would help significantly in that respect. Hopefully with these two additions it might just keep the grumpy neighbors happy.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thanks for the tips! Appreciate the feedback!

[@billharris6886]

Hi Adam, thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. I have also made portable generator extensions and wanted to pass on my experiences. Connecting a solid pipe directly to the generator muffler has always failed for me due to vibration and metal fatigue. The pipe connecting to the muffler must be a flexible type and as light as possible. When the engine is running, there is considerable movement of the engine due to it being a large single cylinder. The flexible pipes I have found the best are the types used in front wheel drive cars, that goes between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. That silicone gasket maker has a maximum temperature rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit but, with the engine running under load, I have seen the muffler reach 1,000 (glowing red) degrees with the engine under heavy load. I would instead, file the floor flange and muffler connection flat so they don't leak or, purchase some automotive exhaust gasket material and make my own. I would also recommend leaving the spark arrestor out of a modified exhaust system since the added pipe can easily add back pressure, reducing engine power.

[@detaileast]

i was just out the door to HD .. i was thinking about these possible vibration issues. my gene will be living her life inside my mobile detail trailer, im going with the lightest possible extended pipe to run out the side wall. thanks for this post. it certified my thoughts exactly . cheers

[@urindnil]

Too much info, this works perfectly.

[@billharris6886]

@@urindnil The solid pipe idea will work for a while so, if you don't run your generator that often, you can get by with it.

[@rclark128]

I used the same flange for a Predator generator. To avoid cracking the flange from the vibration, I had to use pipe hangers to hold an support the pipe an extra muffler to quiet unit. An wrapped entire pipe an muffler in header wrapping.

[@brucejohnson5594]

Great video! Only comment I'd suggest drilling you holes prior to cutting the floor flange so you have more material for clamping force so it doesn't move around as much while drilling.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Good tip! Thanks for the feedback!

[@AmarisJaneNYC]

This video was exactly what I needed! Thank you for posting this.

[@tristanschaper281]

The flex isn't optional. You MUST use the flex on the exhaust. All of the vibration from the engine running, will eventually crack and damage your muffler/flange.

[@guyh.4121]

Specially with all the vibration, the flex would definitely be the ticket.

[@CaptBill69]

Inspiring idea to more safely store a generator in my garage, and use from inside location. Will purchase 240 vac Champion Inverter Generator with CO protection, for being good miles for my dollars. Thanks

[@urindnil]

Support the end with grappling iron.

[@mbecker163]

Why do you need an exhaust extension? Won't the exhaust go out of the box with the fan? The CO will just go out the vent wouldn't it? Am I missing something?

[@301speed]

I do what I want

[@GeeWhizRS]

Good job, I like that you can easily unscrew the pipe.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

It was a must for me. Thanks for the feedback!

[@sixoffive]

I modified my exhaust with a removable stack. Nothing fancy, a stub and five foot thin wall fence pipe held together with two tap screws. The bottom of the tall piece just touches the ground and is not capped. Makes big difference in noise level.

[@lstanich1]

Great, simple (and brilliant) solution!

[@danman281]

Great idea. I like how it’s not permanent. Thank you

[@HowToHomeDIY]

It not being permanent was an important factor to me as well when coming up with what I was going to do. I am glad you liked it. Thank you for the feedback!

[@douglaswindsor120]

The generator vibration is hard on the connections much better to use a 4 inch nipple and the flex tubing you're support at the wall only makes it worse as any up vibration is stopping at the wall also at the wall you should have a fire stop a piece of galvanized steel with a hole for the pipe and 1 inch of clearance all around the pipe and any combustible material

[@HowToHomeDIY]

I have used it a good bit with no issues and nothing has set on fire or blown up. Weird.

[@warrenolsen9424]

Awesome video thanks that's what I needed to help complete my generator shed and I hope to see more just like it

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Warren, glad you liked it and was able to help you. It has worked quite well in my shed so far. Thanks for watching!

[@davepeterson7]

Thank you for making this video. Your solutions were brilliant...yet straightforward and simple. Well done! Cheers!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Dave, thank you very much for your kind words! I am really glad that you enjoyed it and hope it was able to help you. I definitely enjoyed this project. Thank you for watching!

[@JoshKilen]

very nice job on the adapter. Pro tip, it would help if you drilled the holes first it would be a little safer due to more meat to hold on to.

[@thebillbaker4793]

Hello my friend, I read that one of the viewers before me said this was a brilliant video. I agree you did a great job of bringing this to the public. Stay thirsty my friend

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thank you sir! I really appreciate the feedback. Take care!

[@wtdonovan]

well thought out and a nice solution. Thanks for sharing!

[@clarencewiles963]

Thumbs up 👍 as others have said Generators vibrates and short is way better for longevity.

[@cayrick]

Thanks! Good video.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Cayrick, thank you very much for the feedback! I am glad it was helpful.

[@alsepu80]

Brilliant idea man. Thanks for sharing!!!🔥

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Absolutely! Thank you for the feedback! Glad you liked it.

[@rohawaha]

Great solution , I am building a generator shed now and I will use your exhaust system idea .

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Awesome! It has worked well for me thus far. Good luck and thanks for the feedback!

[@YourOwnWay]

SWEET. Thanks for making this video!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

You’re welcome! Glad you liked it!

[@billvoss1362]

Excellent how to video! Well done!

[@kanebruno]

Thank you.... Simple, well done, effective and informative. Great video

[@williamcarroll4490]

Excellent idea. I'm b Putting my champion 4550-3450 gas generator in my van while powering up my travel trailer

[@michaelandrews5499]

Great video. Your ideas helped me out!

[@user-xk5so7wb2t]

Nice Job. BUT you should have used a larger diameter pipe, bc exhaust temp & pressure will need more room/time to flow out & expand, then to cool down (reducing back pressure)

[@guygi2011]

Really nice job of explaiining each step.

[@petersack5074]

5:00 time. Right. Glasses (i use wrap around ones, sealing all) and gloves, AND a toque, over the ears, as well. shop jacket with good collar, too. GOOD FOR YOU, SIR......nice touch, that floor flange, good creative analyzing !!

[@andreharvey8470]

0

[@johnm8078]

Well done buddy

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thank you John, it was a fun project to do. Hope to see you around!

[@josephvogel7234]

Solid engineering, Great plan

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@edklenotich5232]

Nicely done!! I was thinking about doing this myself.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

[@jayx.6813]

Thanks for the vid. Nice to know it’s possible and can be done safely.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!

[@coreymutton1104]

Great idea, gave me some insight for my application 😉

[@billvoss1362]

Excellent how to video!

[@melodynpepper]

Thank you for sharing and caring! Much more affordable than the kits!

[@kirkmiddleton8771]

Thanks for the video. What type of blade did you use in your cut-off saw/grinder?

[@studiobwithtv9302]

Great video! I can stop pulling my hair out now, my exhaust issue is fixed!

[@minitiger3309]

Thank you buddy, excellent idea

[@HowToHomeDIY]

You are welcome. Glad you liked it!

[@rn3333]

Excellent and instructional video. Keep it up

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Glad you liked it! Will do and thank you for the feedback!

[@alpac2756]

Another excellent video of yours. Thanks

[@c431inf]

So this is the correct way to do it 🤙, I ripped exhaust pipe and muffler off a old Toyota I had sitting in my yard worked good nuff lol, this is much better

[@oltob6707]

Brilliant

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thank you for the feedback. Glad you liked it!

[@mattwaters6987]

Nicely done. Simple and fairly cheap. Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊

[@johnpicard4909]

This is the easiest one I have seen. Thank you. Is it possible to attach a longer pipe without any issues?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

It is possible yes. Now, if you use just a solid piece of galvanized steel like I am, it is going to get very heavy the longer it is and can cause stress to where it is connected to the muffler and potentially to the muffler itself. If that is the way you want to go then you will need to figure out some way to support the weight of that pipe that is not flammable. If you want to put a long galvanized flex tube on it like I discuss at the end of the video, they do sell much longer ones on amazon (Walker (40002) 1-1/2" Diameter - 25' Long Galvanized Flex Tube). This would be much lighter. So really just depends on what you are envisioning. Hope this helps!

[@ChrisNYPilot]

Stress on the welds on the muffler, and the cylinder head itself. Weight is bad. Don't use more than a 4 or so inches of iron pipe, best to go with a flex pipe that slides over 2 inches of iron pipe for longer runs.

[@ChrisNYPilot]

my generator takes a 1" flex pipe, so I use this : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027IU9UY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Chris, yes I agree, at the end of the video I show a shorter version of that exact flex pipe that you linked and how to connect it due to the weight of the steel pipe being too much if it can't be supported. As you said, it can get VERY heavy. Thanks for watching!

[@motorv8N]

Very nice neat solution - thanks!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@dennisjohnson3893]

Awesome video thanks for sharing

[@JCDRUM]

Great video, brilliant idea!

[@exclusivesafar]

Wow very good knowledge

[@HowToHomeDIY]

I am glad you liked it! Thank you for your kind words!

[@MrAmk3rd]

Awesome, good info. Thanks for showing this. 👊👊👍👍

[@TheJefft63]

I love the exhaust idea. Have you ever used exhaust tape to wrap the piping?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Jeff, I have not tried that.

[@allencar5212]

Very good video. Beats spending hours to maybe find someone who made an adapter on Ebay costing s small fortune. One comment about your sealant. The Permatex Max Temperature Gasket Maker is only good up to 750°F. The Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer is good up to 2000°F

[@paulrozinski1488]

Great video👍. Two questions. 1- aside from esthetics , was there any reason to trim the excess from the outside of the flange ? 2- Could this new exhaust port be a location for an external muffler ??

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Paul, no I just trimmed it to make have a more finished look to it. It doesn't affect the performance at all. I have seen people add a muffler to their generators, I would definitely make sure it was fully supported by the frame though if that was to be added. Thank you very much for the feedback and I hope I answered your questions!

[@paulrozinski1488]

@@HowToHomeDIY Yes you did answer my questions, thanks for the reply, best regards👍.

[@aagalani]

Great video. Not having a grinder or any other metal cutting tool, is there any other kind of flange (thinner) I could use for the template?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Not that I am aware of. Not that something doesn't exist. I used the floor flange just because it made installing the pipe so easy. You could go without grinding it down though. I did it to give it a more finished look but it should work the same without cutting it down. Thank you for the feedback!

[@richardclifton4120]

Why not put an elbow on the exterior of the pipe to point downwards preventing rain from entering? Cap it to prevent bugs from nesting inside with a screen on the attachment side of the elbow opening or the elbow opening itself facing downward. A screen around the wall exit point would help too. Create a flange on the wall interior for the pipe to exit through. We have a lot of wasps in my area and that open pipe without a screen would be an invitation for them to nest in.

[@mohfiroz7700]

Thanks for the video and nice job.

[@jameswatson4110]

Great idea👍

[@cameronwingate7477]

It be nice if you could attach a walker, quiet flow turbo muffler on there with the smallest diameter that might fit on there so all the sudden you might be able to kill 12 dB maybe even 20

[@SierraJim]

I would put the flex pipe over the ridge pipe to insulate from kids touching it. Also, I would use some type of pipe dope at the threads, to seal and easier disassemble if needed

[@nate.leal.]

Great video. Good job.

[@dpsamu2000]

electrcal conduit is lighter than galvanized plumbing pipe. Connections are easier, and widely curving 90 degree bent pipe is available to send exhaust up a pipe to the roof without loss of power due to the tight 90 degree elbows of a plumbing pipe.

[@davidmann4533]

Conduit would have no longevity

[@dpsamu2000]

@@davidmann4533 Sure it would. They're galvanized, and made for out door exposure. Weather being the main cause of degradation. Last as long as gutter down spouts.

[@VictorSanchez-mh2db]

Thank a lot for this video, you help me out. This is the idea that I was looking for. Thanks again. GBY

[@ajrollan5304]

Thank you for the video, now I can keep my generator inside the garage while running, last storm I left my previous gen it was stolen. A $3k winco!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Wow that’s a expensive piece of equipment to walk off! Sorry to hear that! I will say that I personally would not count on this to fully get all of the exhaust out. I still wouldn’t want to run the generator in an area that people are or close to any doors. I made this to be able to exhaust my generator out of a generator shed.

[@MPGunther1]

Well done sir

[@MrGaborseres]

Awesome 👌 👍

[@anthonymarino4260]

well done

[@ironphilly2366]

this be really helpful for blackout or zombie apocplyes

[@urindnil]

I have used this on numerous generators, if you have a long piece of pipe support the end.

[@OneOffization]

What about air intake when you have the generator in a shed? A typical wood shed will have small vents in the roof gables, is this sufficient to allow enough air flow for the generator to run properly?

[@ctrlaltdebug]

If the exhaust is routed outside, there should be enough suction to bring in fresh air for the engine to run, but it might not be enough to keep it cool.

[@luismarincopula]

Thank You for this video☝️🙂 I was reading the comments Looking for something what I'd like to know: Is okay if I connect a short 90 degrees elbow? or must be wide curve? I have no enough room 😭 I'm afraid the heat going to make a hole in the elbow if I use a short 90 degrees ☝️ What you recommend me?🤔

[@danconnors8961]

well done. Any idea how far you can throw the exhaust? This generator was put near the house and the exhaust points towards the house. Thanks much

[@thereckchanic4709]

Pretty cool ideas. Can you show us this generator shed that your making? Looks like I might be able to add a muffler / silencer to quiet the beast generator from your contraption. Thanks.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey, I have video of my shed on my channel if you want to go check it out.

[@MrSTOUT73]

Looks good. If using the flex tubing, rather than cutting the pipe, I'd just buy a shorter pipe to begin with. LOL

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Certainly a good option! Thanks for the feedback!

[@williammarvin8365]

Looks like you did a great job and I love it. But I would have made a gasket that was made from high temperature. Fiber material I don't know what it's called, not asbestos but something like that other than the silicone sealants. Because the silicone sealant will not take the heat in the long run, it will get hard and brittle and powdery and leak and also unrelated RTV sealant that turns into rubber isn't even good for water applications like thermostat, housings and such. I like the brown or the black permatex seems to be good stuff

[@MrDozer120]

Maybe I missed you speaking about it but that looks like galvanized pipe. If that pipe gets hot enough you can burn off the galvanization and release poisonous fumes.

[@urindnil]

Maybe you shouldn't breathe the exhaust fumes.

[@evilroyslade2491]

Good and cheap.

[@armandarce9739]

After installing the exhaust extension, is it possible to connect a muffler or sound reducing attachment?

[@bigbeezer215]

Excellent video. Thanks. A question: would it be ok to put another gasket between the spark arrestor plate and the muffler plate? It seems to me that that would be a leak danger with the bare metals facing.

[@anthonygallo3576]

Very good! I would not trust the threads on the pipe were it connected to the flange not to leak exhaust

[@Bottomshelf988]

Blue monster thread sealant

[@HowToHomeDIY]

You could definitely add some thread seal. Thanks for the feedback!

[@percyfaith11]

Will the exhaust leak around those threads where the pipe enters the floor flange?

[@RosaBeha]

The pipe has a significant weight and a long lever, the engine oscillates during operation, and as a result the weld on the exhaust pipe is subjected to extreme loads. In practice: How long can the weld seam withstand this load without tearing? I believe a flexible connection at the exhaust reduces the stress considerably.

[@slyerit]

Youre the best

[@SantosRiveraPR75]

Good video.!!!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback.

[@gervaisfillion9417]

well i would prefer the flexible because it will "absorb" vibration from the engine when it is running! the rest is no1 thanks Gef

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Gef, the flex tube is definitely a good option! Thanks for the feedback.

[@oliverh.8785]

Hello and thanks for the video.. I only have one question: what size is the flex tube that goes over the galvanized one inch pipe?

[@johnr5545]

Nice job god blesd

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback. God bless!

[@hoodoo2001]

Do you seal the pipe threads?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

If you are not planning on removing the pipe from the flange very often and want to be sure that absolutely zero exhaust can get through the threads then yes you would want to seal the threads.

[@Nilhilustfrederi]

size up to 1-1/4 and use a brass or steel hose barb into the flex, and make or buy a thicker high temp gasket possible to dampen harmonics

[@dj5752]

Nice job. Are you making a video on how you are putting together your shed as well?

[@georgetempesta5668]

I always have an old harddrive magnet nearby just in case I get something in my eye. It has saved me a trip to the Dr. on more than one occasion.

[@georgetempesta5668]

Nice job too, btw!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

I bet, I have heard others that have had good success with that as well. Eyes seem to be a magnet themselves for objects haha.

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Thank you!

[@petersack5074]

Geo: take apart an old microwave oven, and salvage 2, 2 inch round magnets. Got several laying around, some behind grinder and shop chop saw.......fatal metal 'attraction' ha ha

[@richardsilva5134]

um,,, or just wear goggles

[@spitfire45068]

I did as you explained and exit my exhaust out of the shed. MY CO2 SENSOR KEEPS TRIPING AND SHUT DOWN UNIT. HAVE TWO BOX FANS ACCROSS UNIT. ANY SUGGESTIONS.

[@georgekabele640]

Hi, your advice on connecting wire to T1 for charging battery works great, thanks. Now Two wire setup. I do have one wire in J1 #10 and in J 2 # 18, in dealer menu program YES to two wire program. When l take those two wire together generator will no start, not working. I am so frustrated with this and l hope you can give me some advice to get this working. Again, many thanks George

[@electropalsceo]

Thank you, I just finished doing exactly like you suggested.

[@juliogonzo2718]

If I was going to make a genshed I would run the exhaust out a 10' high stack with a rain cap. Probably want a low point in the pipe with a drain hole in case some rain gets in. Rain caps can be a little aggravating going tinktinktink but if it's a small diameter pipe and the generator is running wide open it shouldn't rattle. I'm thinking if the exhaust is exiting straight up it will be quieter

[@grahamjones6712]

We have an extension on the back of our house that has a flue that used to belong to a tumble drier that is no longer used (we have a condenser tumble drier now) could the exahaust of a generator be fed to this flue?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Hey Graham, while I can’t see your situation, that leads me to think you would be running the generator in an enclosed space connected to your living area so I would not do this. It just would not be safe. Also, depending on what the flue Is made with it may not be able to handle the amount of heat a generator produces and could be a fire hazard. I hope this helps.

[@NorPacAdventures]

Amazing idea, I am looking for a generator to run in the suburbs. What make and model is yours? Do you think it’s possible to run this in a 3 car garage with this exhaust system through an exterior wall?

[@Sparkeycarp]

Don't forget to provide airflow for the heat given off by the engine. These are air cooled engines.