How to Make a Pattern Bigger or Smaller - Pattern Grading

[@Jess-lk3gr]

I used this video back in 2020 when I was first learning to sew, and now I'm coming back to it once again 4.5 years later as a more advanced seamstress. Thank you once again for this amazing resource!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's useful!

[@orcamum]

The BEST pattern grading video ever! The most professional way of grading! Thank you!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kimburke3189]

Wow, some manufacturers don't even know this!!! Thanks for the tips!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@steffwyatt1862]

Thank you, I'm a UK size 20 and vintage patterns only tend to go to a UK size 14 or 16. So I thought to enlarge vintage patterns! This is perfect, thank you!

[@Mellysews]

Wonderful!

[@eking4017]

I was totally overwhelmed with the idea of enlarging a pattern until I watched your video. Thank you!

[@Mellysews]

Glad to help!

[@Timetraveler1111MN]

I still am ;(

[@torakfett3351]

Thank you for using small visual aids. I’m a visual learner because of my ADHD, 😂you can explain something to me 100 different ways and I can read it and it may kinda make sense. But if I see a demo like that it will just suddenly click. You actually saved me from having to sell a bunch of patterns because they didn’t fit me. Thank you so much! ❤❤

[@Mellysews]

Glad to help!

[@sedonaleach8851]

You’re a life saver! Making a dress bodice 4 inches smaller (how coincidental that’s the amount of inches I needed to take off as well) from your help!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@rowan9115]

This is such a clear explanation and I really appreciate the respectful, body neutral language. I feel like I can handle some simple resizing now. Thanks

[@Mellysews]

Glad it’s helpful!

[@Gray__Abyss]

This is really helpful!!! My partner is a larger size, and struggles to find premade clothes- so I'm really happy to find this, as it should help me make clothes for them!!

[@Mellysews]

Wonderful!

[@sandrasmith4539]

Thank you for explaining this step so well. It's definitely a step skipped by many.

[@Mellysews]

Not sure which step you’re referring to, but glad it’s helpful.

[@SashaNoelDesign]

Thank you! I have hundreds of vintage patterns that are not quite my size. I am going to attempt to grade a few soon to make some dresses and this video is a huge help in understanding the process. I will also do a muslin before I cut the actual fabric and hopefully I will avoid wasting precious vintage fabric!

[@Mellysews]

Good luck! Hope you get a great fit.

[@sedgeflower]

Thank you SO much for this. Pattern grading was very intimidating, and this was such a helpful explanation. I'm using what I learned here right now

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@shirleycampbell4508]

Best instructions on any sewing site. Thanks

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@momgrandma5496]

I made costumes for my kids, never made clothes for myself. I bought material and a couple of patterns, hope to begin sewing as soon as my new home is set up, my sewing area is established, then I will readdress your marvelous videos.Thanks Melly.

[@Mellysews]

Hope you enjoy your new set up.

[@LM-ny6tf]

Melly thank you! This video was the only visual resource I found that was clear and helped me resize!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@zhablfgh351]

i just understand about size grading now, thank you so much for this clear explanation!

[@Mellysews]

Happy to help!

[@pastryqn]

Awesome video. I've just deconstructed a favourite blouse that had a stain on it which wouldn't come out. A few years and a few pounds later I want to make a copy so need to adjust the size. Thanks for this. It will make my process so much easier.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@lalalapels4079]

Amazing tip with the wrapping paper. I had just put tracing paper on my list, though not wanting to spend $30 right now, but I definitely have piles of old wrapping paper.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ccreel64]

Thank you so much for your excellent description of pattern grading! ❤ I’ll be checking out your blog post.

[@Mellysews]

Great!

[@laneyb8911]

Thank you SO much. I have a very large bust and decided to get a used sewing machine so I can wear trendy clothes as clothes that cater to large busts are very pricey. Getting larger sizes and tailoring doesn't always work so I have been looking to making patterns or buying them, but they don't cater to large busts at all. Helped me tremendously thank you!!!

[@Mellysews]

Wonderful!

[@carylhalfwassen8555]

Also a pattern website The Curvy Sewing Collective has tips and patterns for full busts.

[@JustMe11012013]

You explained and showed it so clearly! Thank you so much!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ABenz-n4k]

This is different in the sense that there are three longitudinal lines versus the usual two that are taught but it makes sense, especially if you are a lot bigger than your pattern. Thank you for your presentation.

[@Mellysews]

Thanks for watching!

[@susannelangs8198]

such an easy explanation to follow Thank you soooo much . dont have to waste patterns or adjust one if no size for me .

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thegriffinwithin]

Fantastic thank you. I have pants that no longer fit but I love them and can't find anything to replace them so I want to pattern them and then size them up. wish me luck!

[@Mellysews]

You can do it!

[@contiflex]

Thank you for explaining this so well for me.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@meganbright94]

This was so helpful, I used the technique and it helped so much!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it helped!

[@angel061607]

Thank you! I needed a video made for hard head people liked myself!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@anaandress1322]

Wow! I get it now! Great tutorial! I can't wait to grade my pattern :)

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lisakierzkowski2648]

Would I be able to still use this method for a bodice pattern that's sleeves are connected? (it's a bat wing shape) Not sure how I would go about properly slash and spreading the arm or if I could just follow the horizontal line all the way down the sleeve from the neckline, if that makes sense. Thanks for this very clear and informative video!

[@Mellysews]

I'd suggest cutting the "sleeve" part off after you draw the armscye line across it so that you can spread it at a diagonal, where it matches the bodice part at the armscye but less spreading at the sleeve hem. Arms generally don't increase as much further down the arm as they do in the bicep & armscye areas.

[@bettydavis399]

Oh mi gosh ...I just emailed you and had no comprehension of the concept... I was so hoping I would be able to pay someone to do this... this blog makes it so much easier... I’m a seasoned quilter and I sew quite well but have never been able to interpret written directions well...this explanation is well within my scope... I am so very excited to try this now ... also have one last ? ... is there anything I do diff because my bust is small but my waist is non existent and I’m virtually one size waist hip sizing... I’m so thankful for this detailed explanation!

[@Mellysews]

Yes, you'd add more to the waist than the bust. These two posts might also be helpful: mellysews.com/blending-between-sizes-when-sewing/ mellysews.com/pattern-ease/

[@bpaulsen6701]

Thank so much! QUESTION: Do you rely on the pattern measurements, or the finished garment measurements? Would it make sense to try to custom fit, using finished measurements, or is it unwise to eliminate the ease, until you're sure it fits sorta okay?

[@Mellysews]

I don't understand. Ease is part of the style of the garment. If you eliminate the ease you're changing the style.

[@bpaulsen6701]

@@Mellysews I really appreciate your answering my question. So many don't. TBH, I had just had surgery, & was heavily medicated, when I asked the question. I'm not surprised you didn't understand the question. I'm not even sure what I was asking you.😂 I apologize for wasting your time. Thank you so much for the video, it's very helpful!

[@mothersoul1]

Very useful and pleasant to watch Thanks

[@Mellysews]

Glad you liked it

[@i.m.7879]

Why is the spread from top to bottom only 1/8” (total 3/8). If I need an increase of 4 inches wide it’s still too short to go over breast area. Was that intentional or do I need to do same 1” total on length? Thanks so much for this tutorial. I’m not good with patterns yet but you’re making it much easier.

[@Mellysews]

If you only need to adjust the breast area, you need to do a full bust adjustment, not grade the entire pattern. And you wouldn't do a 4 inch width spread in one go anyway. I'd suggest clicking through the post linked in the video description for more details.

[@hibao7952]

Easy and very clear explanation.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@klt3065]

This is awesome, glad I watched.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@arbed31]

Thanks so much for this informative video.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thatsriski]

Thank you so much this was so helpful!

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@GewoonelsJustels]

This is just wonderful! It is much appreciated

[@Mellysews]

You're very welcome!

[@sheilagaleano365]

Great information.... but it is even more complicated.... and many more steps and pieces than even I was afraid of. This would be why the tank top I made oreviously.....just adding to center front and back turned out not great.... and I ended up making darts in the neckline : )

[@Mellysews]

It's not that complicated if you just go step by step. Practice makes it easier.

[@jessicanaquin9466]

Thank you 🙏 I’m working on my first pattern and it swallows my daughter whole. Hopefully this will help in grading the bodice!

[@Mellysews]

You can do it!

[@maryamaghamirzadeh9611]

Thank you. Extremely helpful

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful

[@sharonyates2062]

Melissa, I love your top, do you have a pattern for that?

[@Mellysews]

yes, it’s linked in the video description

[@sharonyates2062]

@@Mellysews I couldn’t see it. I think I have just worked out how to access these. Thank you. Sorry😀

[@cherloem2632]

I have a sloper of my measurements and have lost weight since .... now it is too big particularly over the bust area... can I do this adjustment to only shoulder and side (omitting the neck adjustment?) as long as I do that back and front?

[@cherloem2632]

Oh and thank you.... this tutorial is really helpful!

[@Mellysews]

If it still fits in the shoulder area, I’d suggest a small bust adjustment instead mellysews.com/how-to-do-a-bust-adjustment/

[@sis988]

Great video...very clear and easy to understand.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful.

[@shobhanapatel4113]

Do you have a video on making a full pattern using the scaling model?

[@Mellysews]

I don't understand the question, so I guess not

[@sewhappysarahr8912]

Thank you! I am so frustrated as my waist is 2 inches larger than the biggest size on big 4 patterns, but the rest of me falls into their range (thanks menopause!)This makes fitting pants really difficult. I will try this, although I am afraid of my hips and leg size becoming too large...should I just add a bit to the waist? Can I do that? I am an advanced beginner and I know that this is holding me back!

[@Mellysews]

First, make sure you're measuring your waist where pattern makers assume it is, not where your pants sit, which is a common beginner mistake. More here: mellysews.com/how-to-measure-women-are-you-doing-it-wrong/ If you still need more room in the waist, you'd need to experiment with spreading pieces closest to the waist more and the pieces further away less. And make a muslin of course.

[@madisonarchuleta2507]

Hello Melly, I am attempting to make your men's button-up collared shirt pattern bigger by about two inches (primarily in the chest area). Thank you so much for this video! I was wondering though, how would I size up the collar and yoke pieces? They're odd little pieces and I'm so worried they won't line up or fit in the end, I made your pattern in the size as is and it's great, I'd love to make one big enough to fit my boyfriend. If you have any tips for these pieces it would be so helpful?

[@Mellysews]

You'd want to match the yoke and collar to the parts of the shirt they attach to and increase them the same amount. So if you have a two lines that cross the neck area of the shirt and you increase each 1/4 inch, you need to increase the collar 1/4 inch in the same two places.

[@thegapsthatneedfilling2024]

perfect I comprehend your way of explaining

[@Mellysews]

Glad it's helpful!

[@rosemccartney3750]

love this thank you

[@Mellysews]

So glad!

[@hernandobeach]

Does this apply to older patterns that were only made in one particular size I need to go from a size 12 to a size 16 so would I be applying this to my problem?

[@Mellysews]

This is the process for changing the size of any pattern. I'd suggest reading through the blog post I linked in the video description for even more information.

[@SpudProductions]

Thank you much for this! I am actually using this information for a dog coat! HAHA Let's hope it goes well!

[@Mellysews]

The principles are the same - increase in the areas where the body would increase.

[@flyingteacup8369]

thank you for this video tutorial.

[@Mellysews]

You are welcome!

[@marylounemione7014]

Excellent instruction! Thank you.

[@Mellysews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jotaroslegs2345]

Yikes! Complicated, but very good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[@Mellysews]

Yes, it's not a super simple thing to do, which is why my free patterns are generally one size only.

[@pipeclub4789]

Is there a way to widen the legs a little without altering the waistline?

[@Mellysews]

Sure. Slash and spread in pie shaped wedges

[@clippert3715]

Thank you, as I enlarge a 1950 wedding dress for a good friend's wedding!

[@Mellysews]

Good luck!

[@tex1622]

Hey Melissa, I want to make a bodysuit pattern that otherwise fits me perfectly, just a touch longer for the length of my body. Is there an easy way to add length to the middle (stomach) area of a garment that has 2 different bodice pattern pieces? It seems tricky to do, and I don't want to go a size up as it fits beautifully everywhere else, it's just a little short for my torso. :)

[@Mellysews]

You'd need to match up the bodice pieces before slashing ans spreading the same amount.

[@tex1622]

@@Mellysews Oh yes of course, thanks Melissa!

[@FaveTVShows27]

What software do you use for basic pattern design

[@Mellysews]

I draft in Adobe Illustrator

[@irmtrautpfabe901]

very well explained I like it thank you

[@Mellysews]

Thanks for watching!

[@zainabmarzah7668]

This is brilliant..

[@Mellysews]

Thanks

[@sundial.]

I have another question; how many inches are there between adult women's sizes (generally speaking)?

[@Mellysews]

There isn't a general number. It really depends on the size chart the company uses. I base mine on ATSM standards.

[@sundial.]

@@Mellysews Thanks; what are the differences with astm standards then?

[@Mellysews]

@@sundial. It depends on which ASTM standards you are using. They are available for purchase on the ASTM site.

[@sundial.]

@@Mellysews Thanks anyway. It's just that I am interested in a 16 Butterick; the largest size I can find (online) of a discontinued pattern; up sizing to a 20 (or 22.)

[@Mellysews]

@@sundial. You'd need to refer to the actual measurements of the size 16 and the measurements for what you consider a size 22 to do that; ASTM standards wouldn't help.

[@TheKozyNook]

Very well presented

[@Mellysews]

Thanks for watching.

[@jessicaleyva715]

is there a way to use this for a corset top that is too small for me?

[@Mellysews]

For a top already made, no. For the corset pattern, yes, you'd slash and spread each pattern piece.

[@robynwalters8832]

Can you do this on a jersey top pattern?

[@Mellysews]

You can do this on any pattern. Jersey only affects the amount you might want to grade up by.

[@lavonnelucero9012]

How do you size down from a size 8 to a size 2 - 4 size skirt that calls for an elastic waist?

[@Mellysews]

The same way as described in this video.

[@Timetraveler1111MN]

Do you have a video with a pattern from 1950s that you would show HOW TO make larger?! I have a pattern that says 12 i looked at measurements yep i need 3 sizes added and have NO idea HOW?!

[@Mellysews]

You do it with the same steps as shown in this video. The exact pattern doesn't matter, the process is the same.

[@Timetraveler1111MN]

@@Mellysews ohh my, ill try. I wonder if I should get a new modern pattern?! … for my first dress? Well 2nd yet ny husband helped a lot on that one.

[@knoopsylvia]

Thanks !

[@Mellysews]

Thanks for watching!

[@madi8351]

is there any way i could make a shirt longer at the bottom without adjusting anything else?

[@Mellysews]

Probably, but I don't have a specific tutorial for that.

[@madi8351]

Melly Sews how would i do that? do i just extend the bottom?

[@merindymorgenson3184]

Madison Chong what I do for my kids’ patterns is first to see where the adjustment needs to be made. Is the extra length needed because of a longer torso? Is it because you just like a longer length/ more coverage? If the pattern is short in the torso, it helps to cut the pattern horizontally about the mid waist and spread the pattern there. That’s the adjustment I usually have to do for one of my girls who has a long torso. I always trace my pattern to a butcher type paper we have here, well, it’s more like construction paper, but huge sizes. That way I’m not cutting into the original pattern and can go back to the original if my adjustment didn’t work. If you just want longer coverage, that’s a bit more difficult, depending on the pattern, because patterns usually widen towards the bottom of a shirt to accommodate the hips, which are wider (obviously) than the waist. So you may have to add more width as well as length, if the added length causes the hem to fall further down on the fuller part of the hips. Conversely, if where the hem sits is already at the fullest part of the the hip and you want it to be even more tunic like, you may not need to widen the hem, just add length. Clear as mud yet?

[@JadaCi]

Do this work with any pattern?

[@Mellysews]

As long as it's within the same category. Like you can grade a women's pattern to another women's size, but you can't grade a baby pattern to fit women, for example.

[@thelinnjo]

which is the best printer for this

[@Mellysews]

I don’t understand the question - printers don’t make patterns bigger or smaller.

[@priyaswamy7188]

@@Mellysews Well, you can scan and print a pattern at 105 to 110% . of course some adjustments still will need to be made if it is a fitted top to neckline, etc

[@Mellysews]

@@priyaswamy7188 that does not work for clothing as not all parts of the pattern need to be the same percentage bigger or smaller. Generally all the horizontal measurements will need to increase by more than the vertical ones, foe example.

[@YellowPineappleHoyas]

Can you please do a video on how to make yoga pants bigger? I am finding this all a bit confusing.

[@Mellysews]

Resizing a yoga pants pattern isn't any different than what I do on the pants pattern in the video.

[@YellowPineappleHoyas]

@@Mellysews thanks! Ill watch again.

[@iolandascorsone1201]

Is it possible to have the translation in Italian?🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️

[@Mellysews]

I don't speak Italian.

[@iolandascorsone1201]

@@Mellysews🤗

[@merindymorgenson3184]

Iolanda Scorsone perhaps one of the other watchers speaks Italian and could help? I have family in Italy, but don’t know that they have time for translation. I only speak a very few words in Italian after being there for 6 weeks and it’s been about 20 years ago now. I loved Italy and hope to go back someday. Sorry I can’t help, but hopefully someone can.

[@BADRUBULDURA]

🙂🙂🙂

[@Mellysews]

Thanks