How to Make a Workbench Drawer Episode 2 | Paul Sellers

[@ThePapabear2012]

I heard Starrett keeps a block of wood prepared by Paul Sellers that they calibrate their squares to.

[@grupp61]

Thank you Paul for teaching the "basic" essentials. Aftet woodworking for 30+ years, I think you taught an old dog a new trick when you drew the lines 3/16" in from the edge on a diagonal at 6", and then divided it equally. Its 5am in the US, however I will prove that out before the rooster crows!!

[@rjamsbury1]

I loved how the lack of the drawer you are making meant you couldn't find the dovetail marker! Thanks as ever for the wonderful instruction Paul.

[@JeffGloverArts]

I'm always amazed at how you can cut a piece of wood, tilted up in the vise and remain perpendicular to the face.

[@TermiteUSA]

Legend has it the wood is afraid of failing to be what he wants of it.

[@keithturner3258]

One of the best drawers I've seen. At 15 it seems a challenge to build drawers like this, but with this video, I can make them for my bench. Thanks

[@thewoodworkingmetalhead2712]

Hey another 15 year old woodworker!

[@danielmiller372]

The Woodworking Metalhead Make that 2 others

[@keithturner3258]

Not only woodworker but wood turner mainly🙂

[@Cadwaladr]

That dovetail template he uses is really helpful. I've been woodworking for 20 years, but I never had one until recently. Make yourself one of those if you haven't already.

[@imortaldeadead]

1/2 through make are dovetail joint for the drawer and I’m intrigued with how you have shown us how easy if can be to make the tails. Now I’m on the edge of my seat wanting to see the next video to see how this will come together. Thank you for sharing

[@cliff_hewitt]

Mr. Sellers' scraps of wood are nicer than anything I make.

[@koomber777]

I see I'm not alone with the anticipation for the pins!

[@Thom4123]

Always learn something new no matter how many times I watch your dovetail videos. Thank You and Take Care

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Wonderful videos on the bench drawer. You make cutting dovetails look so easy here and in your other videos. Your many years of experience definitely show. Thank you. mk

[@joeduffy9764]

great work Paul, I laughed that you went to the non existing draw for your dove tail layout tool!!

[@klevesmith]

Looking forward to part 3 and finishing the drawer.

[@tpendletonYT]

The continuous stream of craftsmanship is inspiring. Thank you for another great video.

[@answeris4217]

I love watching you do dovetails. I hope I can become that good at it one day.

[@Rusty_ok]

Great teaching video. Thank you for publishing this.

[@WorldWideWillem-360]

Originating from Holland, but after living for a long time in Canada, my brain still works in metric. But with 2x4 lumber and 4x8 foot sheets you have to start thinking in imperial sizes. Which I do by now. Recently I realized that 1/256 of an inch is super close to 1/10th of a millimeter. As an example, 1/32 inch (8 x 1/256) is therefore 0.8 mm (8 x 0.1), or 3/8" is 9.6 mm (~ 1 cm). This doesn't help for big construction, but for fine wood-working it helps converting between the two systems.

[@Nabrab]

Always outstanding content.

[@peteward6478]

Thank-you.

[@waynesund854]

Any particular reason you don't use a coping saw to get rid of most of the waste in cutting the dovetails instead of using a chisel to do the job that takes longer?

[@milehighslacker4196]

At 27:00 minutes you take the time to clean up the end grain for the tails. What I don’t recall seeing is any cleanup on the vertical edges of the middle (or any) tails (you cut these using the saw at 18:16). I wonder if you have any thoughts on this…Do we need to be extra accurate with the saw for these tail cuts since we are not following up with a chisel? Thanks for your reply. You are a master, thank you for the inspiration!

[@JoeBob79569]

Is there such a thing as a dovetail jig? Not like what Paul is using here, but what I have in my head is something like a 45 degree set square with sides that get thinner as it moves towards the point, and with one or two trussel going up through the centre, depending on how many dovetails you need, and also getting thinner towards the point. Essentially the trussels give you the thickness of your dovetail at the place where the jig is the same width as the wood, and you get your four, or six, points. Of course each jig would only work for the specific amount of dovetails it was designed for, but it would save having to calculate sizes for different sized pieces of wood. Does this make sense? Is it already a thing? Usually when I come up with a cool idea I find that it's already been done, like sandpaper gloves..

[@railfan439]

Awaiting your next episode with bated breath. 8^D Ian

[@jacobdegeling]

Thanks for yet another great video. They never get old; I could watch them again and again! I'd love to know what species of pine this is, and if anyone knows if it is available in Australia.

[@callitagain]

Doesn't look much different to the standard dressed radiata you get at Bunnings to my eye.

[@milehighslacker4196]

Never you mind this scrap of wood (with the perfectly hand-cut dovetails in it!)

[@JamieSasnett]

When making a dovetail marking jig, what's the best angle to cut your dove tails to?

[@green_building]

Hi Sir .. Want to ask, why you always using chisel for a waste of the dovetails part.. Why never using chopping saw ? Thankyou

[@milehighslacker4196]

If you want to know how good (or bad) you are at these joints, do a few with a single tail. I've been practicing this way (single tail) and let me tell you, it's a challenge! With multiple tails per joint, more edges are working against each other so the joint seems much tighter. Single tail joints are not as forgiving as those with multiple tails in them.

[@d_ward4871]

Does anyone else here get so into Pauls videos that you actually try and blow the wood chips away after he cuts and chisels? Sometimes I catch myself kind of, very slightly blowing on the screen,and almost brushing it with the back of my fingers as if to clean the chips and dust away😳

[@TermiteUSA]

My brain usually counts the number of saw strokes.

[@frankschuckert9429]

Dear Paul It looks lie you have a new dovetail saw. I noticed it didn't seem as fancy as the one you usually use, ergo expensive. If it is reasonably priced as in under $100.00 US could you give us a link. Thank you Frank

[@gasfiltered]

I don't know if Paul is still answering comments on this video; hopefully he'll correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it is a Veritas. Lie-Nielsen also has a nice back saw, which is only a little more than $100

[@lordcupcake7215]

Maybe it's been addressed before but why does he always have his off-cut (the unsupported wood) opposite his free hand so he has to reach over to support it? Why not flip the piece so the unsupported wood is on the side of his free hand and he doesn't have to reach over?

[@lbhunter6341]

It wouldn't look as cool on the video!

[@blakemakison5296]

I’m just guessing but maybe so he can see better. For a right hander, you would have to look over the saw to see the line you are cutting to. Maybe someone else will ring in and confirm or deny my theory.

[@gasfiltered]

It's for the videos only, so it's easier to see.

[@TermiteUSA]

I think taking the saw out or stopping to change saw hands was never his practice, to do so would lose the smoothness of his cut. Maybe?

[@victorbannerman6067]

What is HDF in cabinets?

[@ADVJason]

What router plane is that. I've seen the Stanley versions but not that rectangular one.

[@TermiteUSA]

It's a Preston but his new project to make your own is excellent.

[@ADVJason]

@@TermiteUSA I'm actually building that one now.

[@jaimerios1378]

I love your videos! The only problem I have with the content is you make it look way too easy 😒 Folks like me come along and try and do what you do and it doesn’t look quite the same. Regardless, awesome video 🙂

[@benmoran6198]

I can't plane very flat can you give me any tips

[@thewoodworkingmetalhead2712]

If you are using a no.4 , you want to have a straight edge with you so you can check the wood for flatness and then plane the high spots.

[@benmoran6198]

@@thewoodworkingmetalhead2712 thanks

[@lbhunter6341]

You're probably putting too much weight on the knob through the stroke. Weight on knob at beginning with smooth transition to weight on tote at end of each stroke...try it, you'll soon find flatness in every piece of stock!

[@benmoran6198]

@@lbhunter6341 thanks

[@TermiteUSA]

Skim, don't bite.

[@MrGoatflakes]

In this episode Paul offers his wood to the hole... Yes I'm a child xD

[@TermiteUSA]

It's an English expression Beavis.

[@StLaparole]

OK where´s the Rolex?