How to Make an EPOXY LED Pendant Light || woodworking & epoxy resin

[@modustrial]

Before you leave a comment about HEAT ISSUES or REPLACING the LED strip....please watch to the end where I discuss this. And, if you plan to make this, please be aware of the potential heat issues and risk of 🔥🔥....I.e., copy this at your own risk, I'm not liable for anyone burning their house down 😎.

[@modustrial]

I respectfully disagree. Read the pinned comment, and the part about do this at your own risk. Showing an "expirement" with admitted issues is certainly not telling ppl to build copies of this and sell them....it is quite the opposite. In case you didn't watch to the end, you should also watch where I discuss this. This channel is about design and expirementation, and trying things that haven't been done before...I suppose you think Colin furze is telling everyone to go out and start a business building firework cannons in people's backyards?

[@garymoore911]

It’s simple enough to make it without the epoxy, why not use the origin to cut out a piece of white acrylic that will inlay into the cut out made for the led’s? It will fit perfectly and you could easily figure a way to make it removable. Holes could be drilled to let heat out through the top of the light so no more issues there. It would essentially look the same but would function better and be easier and quicker to make.

[@dozog]

@@fpoastro From the last 2 minutes i gather he made it unsafe on purpose so he can ask people to subscribe and wait for the improvements.

[@mikewhipp2984]

@Dozo G In the last two minutes I thought Mike was just thinking of new concepts to improve this project. Thanks for pointing out that he actually made a video with awful, unsafe plans only to get more subs. You are a genius! What a great marketing plan for a business. Do a shit job the first time only to convince your targeted demographic that you will do a better job next time! Shame on you Mike for being so manipulative... Shame on you.

[@modustrial]

@mike whipp you got me ;) with some people, you just can't win....fortunately I think it is the vocal minority :) I totally agree there are a lot of issues with this, and that is why I made it clear from the opening sentence that this was an EXPERIMENT, but, ya know, haters gonna hate.... :)

[@franky01ize]

This dude has some legit equipment

[@Loveismygift]

Perhaps gifts from Bombfell.

[@maybeitworks]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmjZoIuGfJJ6kNE

[@clicheguevara5282]

That's what she said.

[@Ken19700]

I was thinking that a lathe would be nice for the circle.

[@Rayzzia]

Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos kzbin.infoUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Cool approach, Mike. It was cool to see the Shaper in action.

[@modustrial]

thanks Brad! Shaper is fun for sure...probably the easiest way to get into CNC since you don't even need a computer for a lot of things.

[@Intagliosulegno]

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZbin: kzbin.info

[@peggyt1243]

It was a very clever idea to follow the grain of the wood and an impressive use of technology to make it happen.

[@jerrysmallwood8099]

Great Video. i totally appreciate the honest showing of the mistake. Nice recovery.

[@modustrial]

Thanks Jerry! Always happy to share my mistakes so others can learn from them!

[@AmonStuff]

Me too! I enjoyed the rest of the video, but that was actually my favourite part...

[@jajmeeflower]

Yes, me to, thats why i adore this guy❤️

[@dalhemarceleza]

The tool that reads the vector file and lets you see what you are actually cutting completely blowed my head. What a technique! And what a piece of furniture. Congratulations!

[@modustrial]

Thanks much!

[@cwsmittenaar]

cool piece. One way to make the LEDs replace-able would be to not install them till after the resin is hardened then cut a pair of matching trenches from the back that gives access and can be covered during use. this would also solve the heat issue I believe.

[@modustrial]

Good idea! Getting the same pattern lined up correctly on the back would be tricky but probably is doable!

[@StoneAndersonStudio]

Since you’re not cutting a complete circle you could kill all the way through the slab to accomplish this. Right?

[@modustrial]

Yes, altho with an over 2" thick slab, that presents a different set of challenges

[@doubledarefan]

@@modustrial Keep the piece and the platform with the "domino tape" (didn't catch what you called it) in place thru each step of the process.

[@modustrial]

I actually didn't say....they just call it Shaper tape. That wouldnt work unfortunately since max cut depth for the Origin is 1.25", so you'd have to flip the slab over, which would throw everything off. I think you would need to drill a bunch of holes through bottom of the channel, flip it over, and then use a jigsaw or flush trim router bit to clean out the other side

[@protohype7404]

Beautiful and contemporary end product!

[@edwardholmes91]

I love it, it looks great... the only thing I'd change, would be to hang it with a steel wire, not just the power cord!

[@modustrial]

If I we're doing a permanent install, steel wire would be a must!

[@edwardholmes91]

@@modustrial Thanks for the reply. Keep up the amazing work :)

[@modustrial]

Thanks Edward! I do my best to reply to all comments :)

[@DaveBuildsIt]

I am glad you addressed the screw ups.... it happens to all of us. I am looking forward to your resolutions to heat and LED failure. Great video! Thanks for sharing!

[@modustrial]

Thanks Dave!

[@maybeitworks]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmjZoIuGfJJ6kNE

[@gamefun2525]

Maybe you could've used a reflective piece of paper or something like that on the inside of the cutout where the LEDs sit so that light could reflect back right outwards. That would make it much more powerful source of light.

[@modustrial]

Good idea!

[@daviddier5755]

Love the ORIGIN! Nice work

[@matthewdwight4328]

Great job Mike! Glad you show and talk about the mess up moments too. It's helpful to see how you (and others) over come those kind of challenges that arise when we break stuff. ;) Keep it up!

[@modustrial]

Thanks Matthew! Always happy to share the ups and downs so others can learn from my (many) blunders! :)

[@НиколайЧернышев-ч3з]

Шикарный светильник и отличная идея)

[@tomatexelon]

As a maker, I suggest that you use your heat gun to shrink your ‘heat shrink’ instead of a flame, I see a lot of people do this and it’s wrong. Also I don’t think it was necessary to use a special computer router or whatever it was to route that channel for the LEDS, I think you could of did that with just a regular router because the shape is kinda random anyways and you wouldn’t know if it was perfect. Also I think you could of but all the electronics and ceiling support in the first piece of wood instead of adding a another cover because you can see that. Good video, I do like seeing mistakes people run into in videos. It makes you human :)

[@saltwaterrook4638]

Lol wrong? How do you figure? It's heat shrink. It doesn't care what you use just don't burn it. You're a "maker" not an electrician, clearly.

[@MeshJedi]

@@saltwaterrook4638 no he's right, every electrician and electronics tech would instinctively wince at using open flame to shrink heat shrink. granted we've all done it. but we know it's bad and we hate doing it over using a proper tool. and that's the thing though, the flame DOES burn the heat shrink no matter how fast and careful you are, and even if you can't really see it. in total it usually doesn't matter, but it's just not good.

[@jakewalters8482]

@@saltwaterrook4638 You don't "burn" heat shrink. You apply steady heat to it until it shrinks. If you use a flame, you actually can cause the insulator on the wire to fail. I learned this in the Navy while doing electronics on aircraft.

[@saltwaterrook4638]

@@jakewalters8482 no one said you're supposed to "burn" it did we? No. Heat is heat. If you're too inept to not burn using a flame, then that's on you. I have always used a small torch and haven't burned one since I was a kid. I only do it every week so what do i know? The only time i don't use a flame is if I'm working around combustibles or too close to an electronics board.

[@jakewalters8482]

@@saltwaterrook4638 The material shrinks at a molecular level. It is designed to shrink in a specific heat range. The flame is far too hot, and can damage the jacket on the wires, and even the center conductor. If you're too dense accept that you're wrong, and trust the experience of licensed electronics technicians, then just shut up. I was just raised to do things the right way, and use the correct tools. It's never too late to learn, and accept correct advice.

[@rickmrsafetyman9337]

love ingenuity! love people who create and make not destroy. Heat issue can be eliminated with proper low heat LEDs or making simple heat transfer by drilling holes in the back of the wood to release heat. A simple standard voltage required Xfmr would eliminate the need for step up or down xfmrs. We need more of those who create and develop rather than those who criticize! Keep creating dont stop creatin and let not one bad comment discourage your God given talent.

[@modustrial]

Thanks for the kind words and the electronics tips Rick!

[@jeepvette7723]

All these people complaining about his fancy tools used. Some people spend their money on motorcycles, ATV's , boats, cars, guns, or whatever they are into. He spends his on woodworking tools and then uses those tools to make cool shit. No need to hate on him.

[@athapce]

Magnificent work!

[@modustrial]

Thanks!

[@theygaveawaymyid]

I like this light. I just want to comment that the word "opaque" means no light can pass through. The cloudy epoxy used to disperse the light is translucent, not opaque.

[@modustrial]

Technically, yes. The product is labeled and sold as opaque, but actually, it is not.

[@imjeffvaderofficial]

You may have "more opaque" and "less opaque" just as you have "opaque". Think of translucency as a percentage value, and opacity another, one being equal to 100% less the other. So that it is both somewhat transparent and somewhat opaque.

[@dougywilson2911]

This is opaque. The contents (LED Light strip) can not be seen. If it was translucent you would be able to see the strip.

[@MarcFresko]

@@dougywilson2911 you are confusing"transparent" with "translucent".

[@jakewalters8482]

@@dougywilson2911 Opaque means impenetrable to light.

[@Blondie2.0]

I really like this light pendant..freaking beautiful !!

[@SuperBriansmoke]

First time using a band saw?. Consider lowering the guard to come within 10mm of the work piece. It'll decrease flex on the blade, and protect your fingers from being cut off. 10mm is roughly 5/8" for those in the three countries on earth still using inches. (It's closer to 9.5mm but...). Also, on the'world's most dangerous router bit', consider bringing the fence forward to partially enclose the cutter. This works with straight and circular trimming, and prevents you from cutting bits of your hand off as well. Alternatively, you can make a clear acrylic guard to go over the top of the cutter enabling you to machine the workpiece with your fingers well away from the cutter. This will prevent your hands from shrinking suddenly from cutter impact syndrome.

[@modustrial]

Thanks for the tips Simon! It is always great when I get to learn from viewers :)

[@imjeffvaderofficial]

Thumbs up for "STILL".

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

Lol, "for those in the three countries on earth _still_ using inches". :') To be honest though, our metric system ain't perfect either. We have e.g. the meter, and from that we get things like the dm, cm, mm, km, ... And it's all powers of 10, easy to "math" with. And then come the astronomers, and they pollute it with the "AU" and the "light year"... Goodbye, easy powers of 10, *grmbl*. But yeah, for the rest I'm all for the "Royale with cheese" and "Le Big Mac". ;)

[@imjeffvaderofficial]

@@EvenTheDogAgrees Absolutely not that it is. In fact the whole SI is an Egyptian conspiracy. But at least it is consistent and helping with calculations (without CAD stuff, that is).

[@beekay3294]

LOL +1, for those 3 countries - so thanks for being considerate of others.

[@FlyingPigNJ]

That is absolutely gorgeous.

[@modustrial]

Thank you!

[@barnyardkh4]

Nice fixture! Curious, you have a heat gun, why use the lighter on the heat shrink tubing? Seems you could pour the epoxy from the back of the light (upside down) and only 1/2 fill the channel. Then install the light strips. This would allow for future replacement of the lights and still get the desired diffusion effect.

[@modustrial]

My shop is in the basement of my condo building, and I do electronics at my desk in my place....left the heat gun in the shop so it was 5 floors away. plus fire looks cool on film :) You could definitely do the epoxy pour that way, but would need to cut all the way through the slab then, which presents another set of challenges, altho I definitely think it's doable!

[@florencia2907]

What a nice project! Can't wait to see the safer way to do it... thanks for making us aware of the possible implications!

[@modustrial]

Thanks! It's been (and continues to be) a fun learning process! I think I'm going to have 3 more lighting videos with different designs at this point

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@modustrial My suggestion above might be the solution? Feed 12v to the fixture, and locate the power supply remotely, possibly in a metal box in the ceiling void? Most of the purpose built PSU's for lighting are rated to be fully enclosed within a fixture anyway... but it could avoid the electronics showing on the finished item

[@Lexarus]

looks great! but please use the heat gun to shrink the shrink tube instead of a lighter. cheers!

[@modustrial]

Thanks!

[@artsonearth6486]

You make my day just with the push hand to take epoxy !!!! Nice video ! Thx

[@goo6]

i guess you could leave a space when you fill in the epoxy to put the LEDs so you can replace them.

[@maybeitworks]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmjZoIuGfJJ6kNE

[@slams777]

elimiate the interior cavity so the epoxy pour is clear then dries , after the epoxy dries i would use say a filler piece that can go inside the cavity like a mold then Essentially the llight is not glued in . right tight no wires

[@Intagliosulegno]

Congratulations on your work. If you like you can follow me on. Istagram: @woodcarving78 KZbin: kzbin.info

[@iPArtChannel]

I really love these natural shape slabs👍👍 nice work too 👏👏👏

[@modustrial]

Thanks much!

[@Jackfrommt]

11:55 “And this gave it a really modern look...I think.“

[@YeshuaIsTheTruth]

This man isn't a wood worker. He's an engineer!

[@9T9times]

I didn't read all the comments so please accept my apologies if this has already been asked, but what other than the power flex is supporting the weight of all that wood? Over time (and this lamp is intended to hang up there for years), a copper conductor will be stretched under stress like that. When a copper conductor stretches it's thickness decreases (mostly at flawed points) and the resistance to electrical current increases, restricting the current carrying capacity of said copper conductor. If you then continue to draw beyond the maximum current carrying capacity of that cable then that cable will get hotter than its originally intended design. If you use an over-sized cable such as 2.5mm commonly used for ring mains here in UK (I think it's the same in the USA), then this may not be an issue, but if you're using what is commonly used for lighting circuits i.e. a 1mm or even a .75mm cable to save some cash you can probably now understand the potential issues. I hope. But, looking further back and into the distribution board/consumer unit we would expect to find a 5/6 amp fuse/breaker dependant on it's age, protecting that circuit. If the cables CSA has reduced such that the current carrying capacity of the cable is below that of the protective breaker, then that breaker will never trip under fault conditions. The breaker is there to protect the cable, if the breakers rating is beyond that of the cable it may as well not be there. I'm probably over thinking things, but I personally would include a nice decoractive chain to support the whole lump of wood. (Shrug)

[@modustrial]

Thanks for the detailed questions and thoughts! The lamp cord is all that is supporting it as it is. This was an experiment intended to see if the design concept would work, and how it would look, and is not something I'm planning to install on a permanent basis. The hanging mechanism is one of a number of things that would need to be addressed if someone wants to refine this design and install a light like this on a permanent basis. Your post is a great start on the considerations for hanging that someone trying to create a permanent installation. I'm giving this a 👍 so hopefully it will make it's way towards the top of the comments.

[@stevenozer9901]

​@@modustrial Nice work, I love the modern/rustic design mix. May I suggest a practical solution could be to place the electronic controls in a fixture box mounted on the ceiling at the electrical junction box. This would keep the weight and profile down and the heat from the transformer away from the LED strips. A steel threaded conduit could then carry a low voltage wire to the fixture and supply adequate strength and mechanical fastening between the control box and the fixture.

[@modustrial]

Thanks @Steven Ozer ! The fixture box is a good idea, and likely what I'll use when I do electronics for the bigger version I'm working on.

[@stevenozer9901]

@@modustrial Youre welcome. I think steel pipe like this goo.gl/images/BVBsdy would be both sturdy and attractive for suspending the fixture.

[@firstlove7213]

To solve the issue of the heavy weight, I usually use a stainless steel cabling attached to a ceiling rose.... remember to use the right thickness with enough tensile strength according to the load you have in your project.

[@ChrisChevs]

Man those are sick tools. Awesome video.

[@modustrial]

Thanks!

[@Chopwoodcarrywater]

Flip your chisel around. Use the bevel on the chisel to help you control the depth of cut.

[@modustrial]

Good tip. Always up to learn and improve, and I'm a complete novice with hand tools, so I have much to learn :)

[@woodcarving5026]

Great job! Creative and useful!

[@ferrer985]

a DIY woodworking vid featuring a super high tech advanced computer driven cutout machine. Cause we all got one of those lying around. I doubt most ppl even have a regular router. If this is DIY then show ppl how to make this stuff with inexpensive or otherwise regular household tools

[@modustrial]

*sigh*

[@robozstarrr8930]

@@modustrial i like your project & can see where Mark W is coming from ... but, wondering, would it be possible to route/match both sides with your digital routing system?? ( route then epoxy, cure, flip over and route backside to match ( stopping at epoxy of course )? then you can install LEDs from top side, + heatsink them & its serviceable. plus you could install another string of ( dimmable ) warm LEDs to light above/ceiling in that slot...( or a string that you can adjust LED colors/flashing effects, etc, . . . for those parties! )... noice

[@modustrial]

@roboz starrr It would be really tricky to get everything lined up. Since the back doesn't have to be exact, I think you could drill thru a channel routed in one side with shaper, then roughly route out the other side with a handheld router to use aluminum and the technique you describe. I'll probably be doing something similar on the larger slab I'm working on.

[@zarlus8]

I also understand where Mark is coming from, but I think you did show a technique that could be used just before resorting to the special tool. Speaking of, I didn't know that thing existed and it looks like it would be a great addition for our local makerspace.

[@modustrial]

@zarlus8 thanks! I try to show or a least discuss multiple ways to accomplish things. The shaper is a great tool for sharing amongst multiple people. I actually split mine with a friend and we take turns with it.

[@PhiMobileSounds]

This would be coo as a table in the rehab for the home rebuild. The light itself looks dim to provide light for a room unless it is just mood lighting. This method could be a cool accent to go around the edge of a table as well. Very nice!

[@waterpolovin]

Try to use aluminium behind the led next time to get rid of most of the heat✌

[@modustrial]

good call!

[@waterpolovin]

@@modustrial led lighting is my job haha. That's how we make sure our led strips actually reach the 50.000 hours. Heat is what kills them, nice idea for a light, we did a same sort of project with a kitchen table. Rgbw+ww dimable led strip plus tuneable white 2200 to 6500k

[@modustrial]

Oh, nice! So I'm curious, because I wasn't planning this as a permanent install, I didn't worry about heat, etc., and it sounds like you are the person to ask.... how much of a risk is the the heat from LEDs in epoxy. And, how risky is the transformer on the top of the light? Beyond adding ventilation, would you recommend a little 5v to blow across the transformer?

[@Nordbish]

I work as an electrician and know that led strips produce some heat, but enough heat to set fire to a relatively large piece of wood? I think its quite safe as even a lighter wood struggle lighting it up. it's usually not the leds that get hot, its the transformer. I would be quite supprised if this would start a fire

[@waterpolovin]

@@Nordbish it really depends on what led you use aswell. For example if I use a high power 6500k 900 lumen led string the led will het hot and need some heat sink.

[@AP-ph7hf]

Sweet digital router. Awesome finished product. Cheers!

[@modustrial]

Thank you!

[@literate-aside]

Nice video man. Looking at it, there’s plenty of room to fit one of those cheap ZigBee RGB controllers so you could control this within HUE. You can pick up appropriate strips for Chris too. Adding this awesome to your smart home with colours would be super dope.

[@Newtperc]

Hue color rendition suckkkks

[@stevesloan6775]

liked it, I loved it! Mistakes are human. Irony.

[@modustrial]

Thanks Steve!

[@xXxJonnyLavaxXx]

Great project! Love it! My question would be this, how heavy is the whole light? My concern would be the weight put on that pendant light kit without a down pole and ceiling mount to carry that weight.

[@modustrial]

Thanks! I'm definitely more concerned about heat/fire hazard in practice, than I am about the weight. Locust is a pretty light wood, similar to cedar. The pendant is probably 10 lbs or so, if I had to guess.

[@modustrial]

@davy kroket good idea!

[@modustrial]

@Davy Kroket good thought! And yes, got the email, it is flagged in my inbox for follow up soon :)

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@modustrial Another idea for consideration would be clear fishing line. I may try to do this myself and use enamelled copper wire to feed the low voltage to the fixture from a supply hidden in the ceiling void. The idea of a light fitting apparently just floating in mid air appeals to me. Obviously there might be issues with heat dissipation and also the current carrying capacity of thin enamelled wire.. but not insurmountable I would think

[@modustrial]

If you could somehow pass electrical current through clear wiring and create a floating light, that would be amazing....I'm not familiar with the material you are talking about. I'll have to do a little research on it

[@SamWilson]

This guy has all the gear and all the ideas

[@TJSWOODWORKINGSHOP]

Awesome project my brother I love it very good idea to later :)

[@modustrial]

Thanks much TJ!

[@adamnicholzz]

Very original idea, good execution.. Mistakes are a part of any project, and you were able to hide yours in the end and get a really clean looking finished product. Love this idea, gonna tuck it away for a day when I have a space of my own where I can install my own custom fixtures like this.

[@modustrial]

Thanks Adam! Always happy to share mistakes so others can learn from them!

[@nonamesaytrue]

Красиво, но это одноразовая лампа получается, теплу не куда уходить от ленты, перегрев, выход из строя, возможность замены отсутствует, было бы логично фрезернуть насквозь одну сторону залить, другую оставить доступ или же сделать сэндвич

[@modustrial]

Спасибо! Вы правы, что это одноразово. Это был эксперимент, чтобы увидеть, сработает ли он вообще, поэтому я не беспокоился о том, чтобы сделать его готовым продуктом. Тепло от светодиодов также является проблемой. Сейчас я работаю над некоторыми проектами по эпоксидной смоле для светодиодов, которые изменят процесс, позволяя заменять светодиодные полосы, и позволят потоку воздуха над светодиодами. В ближайшие два месяца появятся еще одно или два видео о светодиодной эпоксидной смоле.

[@kraj19721972]

Приветствую. Что за фрезер такой ,в начале ролика?

[@КонстантинЧавкин]

Русские логичнее видят решения

[@caesaraugustusjulius]

@@КонстантинЧавкин результат тяжелых условий жизни... дорого распыляться и делать неверно с первого раза + нежелание париться)

[@ruslanzin1773]

тоже про это сразу подумал. А еще зачем париться с фото и фрезеровать по меткам, на лампу снизу никто смотреть и рассматривать не будет можно было просто примерно фрезеровать по контуру и все.

[@Joefster]

Well done. Nice experiment. Like it!!

[@modustrial]

Thank you!

[@mariat3216]

I have the wood I don’t have all those crazy tools!!!! How do I make it? So do I use hair dryer instead of heat gun? How do I carve the wood?

[@modustrial]

A heat gun is about $15

[@modustrial]

And a standard router works as I showed, or you could even use hand chisels if you have the time and patience

[@Inhalin1514]

"How do I make it?" That right there is a great question :) And completely up to you to find a way. That's part of the fun. Take a $10 jigzaw off of craigslist and do your BEST at building what he did..you may surprise yourself.

[@CorbinAce]

How about making it in two pieces, top and bottom 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Do the groove in the bottom piece with a scroll saw or carefully with a jig saw. most people have a jig saw. You could sand the sides with a small diameter drum sander in a drill press. It doesn't have to be precise anyway. Glue the top and bottom together. It can be made out of a piece of any kind of tree trunk. or any kind of wood. You can make any outside shape you want. Wulah Just an idea for Aykiz Genc

[@venessankurumeh1549]

@@modustrial I have seen setups with a shop vac close to or above the wood to blow away the shavings. I think that might help if someone was using a standard to see more clearly.

[@User-od8dz]

Looking through the comments I see he has liked and read them all. Great job on this project and I appreciate you reading your comments!

[@markterrano7659]

You used your heat gun earlier in the video, why not use that instead of a lighter for heat shrink tubing? Less chance of scorching the tubes.

[@modustrial]

just being a bit lazy....the heat gun was 5 floors away in my shop in the basement of my condo building...

[@TheLostMedici]

@@modustrial Makes total sense - thanks for the reply. Cool project looking forward to more in this series.

[@leroycasterline1122]

+1 for Affinity products!

[@its_tanuj]

I would need to construct a lab first before making this epoxy light😂

[@martinpanev6651]

whaaaaat that is sooo beautiful

[@modustrial]

Thanks Martin!

[@mostgrossdanger04]

Well you have equipment there I've never even seen but ...that was a nice piece... I'm fortunate enough to have a cnc router ..so I'll adapt the build process accordingly ….nice job …

[@modustrial]

Thank you! This is very doable with a standard router.

[@chrisw1462]

This is one case where it would actually be a tiny bit harder on a CNC router. The Shaper Origin uses a camera to align itself, and more importantly lets you see exactly where the cut is before you start. This makes it way easier than trying to line things up on a CNC, unless you have one of those lasers that draws the cut for you.. lol.. I don't have nor can I afford one, but you should really search "Shaper Origin" here in KZbin and see what it can do. Then again, once you see it, you'll be as jealous as me.. :-)

[@Carlzday]

this would be an AWESOME idea for a lit, back yard path, or walk way

[@modustrial]

that would be cool!

[@blobbyflobby6752]

I thought it was weird that you never blinked.... Lol

[@videocompilation1522]

DIY Satisfying Epoxy Resin Night Lamp | Wood Turning | Satisfying Videos - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3i3kmCNqbuKerc

[@FredMcIntyre]

Awesome work! 👍🏻👊🏻

[@modustrial]

thanks much Fred!

[@RickyDBerny]

i want to try but i only have hand saw and a couple of nails. 😂

[@johnmartinez9220]

you can do it man! just get a chisel and watch a few videos on how to use it properly, and you can make it!

[@cornelisgoedegebuur1162]

lol

[@duoterre7374]

love the project, great idea and only vid on youtube I didn't want to 2x because it was already fully entertaining and had plenty of information each second on the way (most videos on youtube feel like the youtuber speaks too slowly or don't get straight to the point, you got straight to the point and even showed the part I cared about right away. Everything else was just icing after that - very cool work)

[@modustrial]

Thanks Duo! You basically listed my goals for my videos, so that is great to hear! :)

[@PGISME]

This guy looks like Buzz lightyear.

[@Andyfun2010]

Paul Gormley 😂

[@hussaina278]

So great 👌😍 idea

[@TheKraken123]

About the heat: I am more concerned about the heat from the power supply. If the LEDs get too much heat, the normaly just die, but the power supply would go up in flames and burn the whole lamp (and house) down.

[@modustrial]

Yes, valid....I'm going to be adding some holes in the cap, and maybe a little 5v fan over the power supply.

[@WorksbySolo]

Anton Benon and Mike, You might consider replacing all that stuff with a single tiny phone charger cube. They’re 5 volts. I just used one on my latest LED project video. Works great!

[@modustrial]

That would be really cool, and I'm looking at something like that for an upcoming portable light project.

[@missenderdragon2551]

i have made 3 timber epoxy lamps and never had any issue with heating..... don't worry.... great job....

[@modustrial]

@robert pivcevic thanks Robert! Would love to see yours. Do you have pictures anywhere?

[@Slovenianwoodworker]

Very nice.. I like the elegant shape/look of the wood. Regards

[@modustrial]

Thanks man! Just trying to keep up with your LED projects ;)

[@Slovenianwoodworker]

@@modustrial hahaha :-) Good job.. looking forward for next video. Cheers

[@leyasep5919]

LED "could" not burn : THEY WILL !!! I speak from professional experience of a large scale deployment. There are way better ways to do this but basicly : if you can't led LEDs "breathe" (leave them in contact with free air to dissipate the "little heat", well, the heat will accumulate and the junction temperature inside the LED will exceed the working limits.

[@garrl007]

I'm a lighting designer and Electrician. You're not correct.. I have fitted miles of LED strips, in many different enclosures, LED strips this length wont get hot enough to damage it.

[@modustrial]

@burnt toast I'm happy to be wrong :) that's what I get for listening to the peanut gallery. What about the transformer?

[@leyasep5919]

@@garrl007 I wish I was wrong. Now tell this to the major French museum that had to replace ALL their signage. By the way it's not a matter of length. How do you measure temperature, when epoxy is a heat insulator ? Speaking from tens of kilowatts of installed LEDs.

[@KomarProject]

That’s array cool light fixture!! And your dance moves are epic lol, maybe need a little work lol. Great video brother !

[@modustrial]

Lol, no love for my blue steel impersonation? :) Thanks brother!

[@KomarProject]

Modustrial Maker is that what that was? Lol

[@modustrial]

Of course! Gotta love an orange mocha-frappachino!

[@Screwdriver1234]

Why do people ALWAYS adjust their bandsaw incorrectly. Set it this high and you're in danger of it snapping and it results in less accurate cutting. There's an up and down adjustment for a reason....

[@asandrius86]

Nice idea, but I see 2 problems: 1. When the led strip will fail it will be difficult to fix, because somehow you will need to take off epoxy..., 2. Led strip is not attached to any metal construction, so it will have heat problems which will cause to Led failure...

[@modustrial]

Watch the end of the video ;) I talk about these exact two issues.

[@asandrius86]

@@modustrial Sorry didn't see the end of the video. And is it enaugh light from one strip? Would it be better to make Led strips from both sides or even 1 strip at the bottom?

[@modustrial]

No worries! Your comment was respectful and constructive :) light output is adequate for a mood light....for the bigger more refined one I'm working on, I'm going to just use dual 12v strips that are denser (120 LED/m) so it can function as more of a room light.

[@asandrius86]

@@modustrial Great solution!

[@Enskakuski]

Doesn't epoxy actually transfer heat better than air? So if an LED-strip is cool enough to be used without any heat sinks (just passive air cooling), having it surrounded with epoxy should actually cool it even more effectively.

[@danielbrinlee9939]

That digital router is awesome

[@modustrial]

Thanks, I dig it too! 😎

[@IceInMaWeiner]

"DIY"

[@Zstep_plays]

I love your DIY working...💕💕

[@modustrial]

Thanks Alex!

[@michaellfrostnielsen4834]

Very cool lamp 😊👍🏻

[@modustrial]

Thanks much!

[@SgtJoeSmith]

Dude do a rat tail splice before soldering. Heat gun on heat shrink tubing

[@SgtJoeSmith]

i like your idea just read more about electrical is all

[@Kalababu08]

loved the idea!!!

[@modustrial]

Thanks!

[@DDRwoodwork]

....i want a router with a screen on it.... :D !

[@trentrichards6490]

I have had almost the exact same issue with cutting wires and needing to dig into the wood of the lamp to repair them. I didn't cut the wires with a tool though, and instead the wires broke clean off due to me moving the wire around as I was finishing the exterior of the wood. One thing I have started doing differently that would have made that situation easier is using silicone rather than hot glue to fill the holes. It is so much easier to remove if you need to!

[@EqualKinks]

the dullest chisel i have seen in my life smh

[@greedypaul6343]

Hey there MM, If you want to use the palm router to follow the rings by hand, try outlining with a chisel around the rings you want to target. Giving yourself a solid cut at the boundary allows you to get close to it, without actually touching it, and accurately hit your target every time. The goal is to keep the chisel cut slightly deeper than you plan to pass with the router. Good luck with future efforts.

[@modustrial]

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to be doing it by hand in a future vid. 👍👍

[@WoLF-uu8hr]

Those expensive tools though

[@lestariabadi]

Can be done with just hand-chisel, takes ages. Regular router a bit faster, tho nothing like the speed of these tools!

[@PJGalati]

Using the heat gun to soften up the resin and chisel it off is going to save me SO MUCH TIME! That's a brilliant tip. Project came out great!

[@modustrial]

Thanks! And gotta give credit to Jonny Builds for figuring that trick out... I just borrowed it :) just be careful if you have a large void cause the chisel can dig in more than you want (and Im not sure it would work on a really big area, like if doing a river table)

[@SenSei_RB]

я бы сказал так - когда у тебя есть линия по производству мерседесов - то на ней нет никаких проблем сделать запорожец...

[@modustrial]

Я хотел бы иметь возможность делать автомобили Mercedes в моей мастерской. Ты можешь научить меня как?

[@НиколайСеменов-ф8х]

Золотые слова!

[@Igeriy]

Вот оно, золотое сравнение. Я вчера пол часа думал, так и не мог объяснить словами суть всех манипуляций с мегакрутым оборудованием, там - где реально "от руки" 10 минут делов без потери качества))

[@Igeriy]

@@modustrial With your tools you can make a product as complex as a piston. You made the product as simple as Opel. show what your equipment is capable of? I will make such a lamp a simple router and without computer programs.

[@diyautoschool]

OVERKILL!

[@mccc4559]

BRO! YOU ROCK!

[@modustrial]

Thanks!

[@wolfsart5610]

Zu kompliziert, zu viel teures Equipment.

[@chrizzley2228]

Absolut. Als versierter Hand- bzw. Heimwerker sollte man in der Lage sein die Jahresringe einigermaßen mit einer anständigen Oberfräse nachzufahren. Ich bau das Ding in 3 Tagen ohne den Hightechmist nach. Man kann alles verkomplizieren. An den Holzarbeiten nachdem Kabel und LED eingebaut sind sieht man, das da nicht viel Planung dahinter stand.

[@simonlapa]

my idea for using any light sources that are put into such a small and dark holes is to cover the inner space with silver paint (a mirror would be the best). Thanks to that You get the light that would normally go in other direction go outside the holes = it is brighter. But the idea itself and the work is brilliant. Greetings from Poland to Pioneers!

[@modustrial]

Thanks! Using silver paint is an interesting thought.... similar to using aluminum foil maybe?

[@simonlapa]

@@modustrial Exactly, but easier to use. Aluminum foil would have to be glued before. Have a nice evening :)

[@EqualKinks]

This guy has great content but damn do i feel like he is going to murder me in my sleep with those eyes.

[@normbarrieau9708]

What great idea and original thinking ,

[@modustrial]

Thanks Norm!

[@ЭминАбдуллаев-ш3б]

А если диод сгорит. То как менять?

[@modustrial]

Вы не можете заменить светодиодные полосы ... это был просто эксперимент. Я делаю большую версию, где вы можете изменить их с изменениями в процессе. Оставайтесь в курсе....

[@НиколайСеменов-ф8х]

@Asadchy смола будет как радиатор,думаю все норм будет

[@НиколайСеменов-ф8х]

@Asadchy я скоро проверю

[@игорьмакс-к4ж]

7:57 используй 5050 - из 3 уже по одному сгорело, но работает .

[@ТрендРумов]

Нихера се сколько у него инструментов, а мозг не работает, погорят диоды нахрен

[@ThoenWorks]

That is super cool. Been thinking of ways to do something that incorporates these two concepts - and here you've done it!

[@modustrial]

Thanks much!

[@sanho1988]

Well, you mentioned a heat issue already, so good luck building new house after this one goes in flames thanks to wooden light

[@markpavliuk7792]

Led=no heat

[@chaz720]

@@markpavliuk7792 No heat? Awesome. Go ahead and buy an LED bulb from the store, install it, turn it on for a few hours, and then grab it with a firm grip with your hand. Let me know how that works. (legal disclaimer: don't actually do this, you will burn the s*** out of your hand.)

[@modustrial]

I'm with @chaz720 heat should always be a concern with LEDs.

[@cnrom]

@@markpavliuk7792 Leds produce little heat, but having nowhere to go (due to bad heat conduction of resin and wood) temperature can go up high. How high and how fast, you can't tell as it has to do with many factors. So heat may be an issue.

[@FranseFrikandel]

I really doubt the heat those LED's output could ever heat up that big of a slab of wood enough to be of any concern. Also, AIR is actually one of the best thermal insulators there is... Especially since the resin is poured in after the LED's are placed the LEDs probably are going to conduct the heat into the epoxy well enough to be nowhere near a fire hazard.

[@nawal552]

Super Woow, j'ai jamais vu comme ça. Bravooooooo

[@modustrial]

Merci beaucoup!

[@MrAfx34]

Do u blink?

[@modustrial]

never ;)

[@MrAfx34]

@@modustrial im subed to ya now!! u do make some neat stuff. its cool that u commented back to me :)

[@modustrial]

@@MrAfx34 Thanks Derek! Glad to have you here. I do my best to reply to all comments.

[@captainpatsajak]

Looks amazing man, nice job

[@modustrial]

Thank you!

[@andreypetrus]

Идея классная, но реализация.... пиздец...

[@modustrial]

Спасибо! Вы правы, есть много вещей с электрической работой, которые можно значительно улучшить. Это был просто эксперимент, чтобы увидеть, будет ли он работать вообще, и как будет выглядеть дизайн. Я не собирался делать это как постоянную установку. Я работаю над увеличенной второй версией, где я буду использовать то, что я узнал в этом эксперименте, и исправить многие ошибки. видео для второго света выйдет в следующем году в январе или феврале.

[@keepcalm8005]

@@modustrial если сгорит светодиод, то можно сразу выкидывать в мусорку, должен быть доступ для ремонта. Ленту светодиодов нужно направлять вниз, иначе такой светильник имеет только декоративную функцию.

[@VANO7267]

@@modustrial Главное ИДЕЯ ! Она не имеет цены. Реализация может быть разнообразной, а вот идея бесценна !

[@EC4400]

Awesome mad scientist.

[@alejandroargiro3282]

Too much tech is ruining lives.

[@modustrial]

society is already doomed because of the epoxy trend....

[@joshuaelliot2020]

+Modustrial Maker Haha!

[@georgesouza4866]

Have u seen "The jetsons" ?. Its the same thing, beautiful but boring.

[@fakename287]

This is one of the most privileged, first world comments I have ever seen

[@joshuaelliot2020]

Complaining about tech whilst commenting on an online video he's watching on his smartphone 👏🤣.

[@spiddy2000]

great work,keep it going.

[@modustrial]

Thanks much!

[@mazzday777]

2:25 охуенно зачитал, бро.

[@HauntedSheppard]

you could pour the epoxy and mount the led's behind it, since you made the housing for the electronics anyways. Put some reflecting material on the housing slab you put on the strengthen the light being emitted through the epoxy. this makes it so you can change your led's

[@BadBuilder]

I like how you find ways to fix your errors.

[@defan6613]

Хорошая идея, отличное видео!

[@modustrial]

Спасибо!