How To Make An Oval Bezel Fit Every Time - Oval Cabochon Bezel Setting

Making a round bezel is pretty much straight forward but trying to get the right sized bezel for an oval stone is a bit more tricky.
In this film Andrew shows you how to make a bezel that fits exactly and solders it perfectly.
#AtTheBench #JewelryMaking #bezelmaking
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Andrew Berry, a professional jeweller for 30 years, is the training director of www.AtTheBench.com, an award winning on line jewellery training website.

[@audreydeforest-leon3293]

Great information! Can you write out the math that you used. I got everything up to pi but I didn't catch the last two measurements your hands kinda blocked the stone. Also, is this how to measure for a ring?

[@Atthebench]

diameter of stone added to the thickness of the metal bezel multiplied by 3.143. eg 16mm diameter with 0.5mm thick metal. 16mm + 0.5mm = 16.5mm * 3.142 = 51.8mm So the length of the metal bezel is 51.8mm in length.

[@januszstokowski902]

@@Atthebench 16,5x3,133=51,69

[@januszstokowski902]

@@Atthebench 16,5 x 3,122= 51,51

[@Atthebench]

Janusz Stokowski pi is 3.142 so that is what you multiply the diameter with the thickness of metal added

[@Baicon]

@@Atthebench my calculation formula is (Diameter + 2X thickness )x Pi witch translate 16 +2x0,5 = 17 x 3.1415 = 53.405. By the way Pi is 3.14159265359.

[@liliaciofu6483]

Thank you. It is so nice to hear the explanations and see you doing perfect fitting bezels !

[@jaroddunbeck5893]

So many gold nuggets of information in these videos.

[@GreyoftheSnow]

Just started jewelry making school and your videos have me PSYCHED ABOUT LIFE

[@dawnstmichell7356]

I appreciate that you cover how to solve issues that inevitably come up for newbies like myself.

[@elisawithington5991]

Thank you again for teaching me for so many years my dear teacher Mr Berry💐 Elisa W/Ca

[@naomiwendy2234]

Would you consider doing a part three explaining how to do a bezel for an irregular size, or freeform stone? Thank you for your time. All my best to you and yours!

[@username-rs4vf]

It's calculus time!

[@linuxpcinstalls4313]

The easiest (and probably quickest) method is to tape a piece of similarly thick card to one end of the irregularly/free-form stone or shape. Fold it around the shape ensuring it is in contact with all the nooks and crannies, until it comes all the way around and meets up again with the taped edge. Mark and cut it off to length where the two edges meet, and then peel off the taped edge and measure the total length. NOTE: Make sure you should use the same thickness card that you intend to use for the bezel. You can make some by gluing separate pieces together on top of each other till you get the desired thickness.

[@naomiwendy2234]

@@linuxpcinstalls4313 Thank you very much. I'll give that a try - it beats excessive math any day!

[@DRMLbyJeffrey]

Thank you Andrew. I never thought I would b doing Jewelry vs just a stone cutting polisher.

[@joelbitton]

You are a wonderful teacher, I'm sure it didn't happen overnight. Your experience is obvious. Thank you for these videos.

[@allanthompson9695]

This is brilliant. I am making a note of all the formulas. Excellent. Cheers Andrew.

[@maurschmidtz]

Hi Andrew, Would love to see a tutorial like this for measuring and fitting a heart shaped and tear-drop shaped cabochon. I find they are more tricky. Thanks.

[@shadowmihaiu]

Thank you so much for so freely sharing your hard-earned expertise with us! I learn a lot watching your videos.

[@tammygurl64]

Omg! Thank you so much for those simple calculations! 👍 I wrecking my brain overthinking how to calculate diameter of an oval as I make my first bezel for a cabochon. LOL!

[@elisazulueta9535]

Thank you Andrew for the tips on how to measure the bezel wire. Your tutorial was very helpful for me for my next course of Jewellery Bezels Setting.😊

[@Mnbanch]

What a teacher! Super video - Please keep them coming.

[@marcosofsky2605]

you are an excellent instructor, I am glad I found your videos

[@lynnkvigne9257]

Fantastic video, I can't wait to try your method of measuring the bezel wire. One question, you said NOT to cut thru both ends of the wire at the same time. Wouldn't that guarantee they are completely flush as opposed to cutting them one at a time?

[@HarmonicEnigma]

Hello :) Is there a tip for measuring the correct height of the bezel? (So it's not too short height wise when trying to set the stone). Please/thanks!

[@alidaly9230]

I love your videos! Thank you SO much for sharing your knowledge with us!

[@carianin5293]

Perfect timing too. Yes just about to ask about the next video. Thanks Andrew.

[@rebeccamyers4839]

Thank you Andrew. Your videos are always full of information. I refer to them frequently. I just finished setting two oval Prehnites and could have really used your calculations. Usually I just wrap the actual stone with the bezel, mark, then cut. The problem with this method is I usually have to do a lot of adjusting, which is fiddly with a small stone. I look forward to your next video. I seem to be making a lot of rings lately and look forward to more of your great tips.

[@jewelrybytomi8371]

This is really nice and very explainatory

[@salmanalawamleh9840]

Thanks Andrew ! Excellent and clear . 10/10.

[@sylwana1770]

Thank you for such a precious lesson.

[@courtkramer4451]

Can you please show an effective way to bezel set a bullet shaped stone. I'm struggling. Please help. Love you show! Thanks from Wyoming USA

[@ExpertOfFX]

What An Awesome Tutorial! Thank You!

[@petrichor7121]

Thank you so much.. I love your channel! So helpful and informative

[@NathanHarrison7]

Great video. Subscribed.

[@brendawhite243]

Brilliant!

[@carolinecaro6327]

Incredibly helpful. Thanks!

[@cathyellington7599]

I really enjoy all your videos Mr. Berry. I made my first bezel and have a lot to learn but feel confident that I will get better. I did what you said in your video about sawing and it made a world of difference. I bought some really good saw blades and lubricant. I have a question about using an ultrasonic machine to clean jewelry. What stones should not be placed in the machine? Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. Going to Wales next year maybe I will get to see your shop.

[@jimbettridge3123]

Thanks Andrew!

[@paullemay3218]

Thank you for sharing another great tip. 😎🇨🇦

[@oniapleasants4787]

You make it look easy 😊

[@TanyaSmith-m8q]

Thank you so much 😊

[@annagray4328]

Hi Andrew, thank you for your informative videos. I was wondering if you have made a bezel setting video for a flat stone. So bottom and top are flat. I fail to find information about this technique. Thank you :)

[@tonyandbevjordan7363]

It works, thank you. I had a small lapis lazuli cab that would have been difficult in my old way. But I used your method. It does work. Thank you so very much. It will give me confidence in the future. Bev.J. New Zealand

[@PatrickPoet]

That's a pretty good method. I calculated the perimeter using Ramanujan's approximation of the perimeter of an oval, of course adding the .5mm in each direction and it came out to 47.667 mm so the error was less than 2 millimeters as you'd expect with the two axes relatively close in length:) Since you cut on the waste side of the lines it works out fine.

[@johnsmalldridge6356]

Great information! Thank you!

[@Ken_Dalton]

Perfect, thats just wjat im workin on tomorrow. A oval Labradorite cab Excatly the same size as the one in yout video,cant wait to tryoit that Maths doim it your way rather than the old.. Thank u Andrew, always super helpful

[@joannefn2024]

Excellent instruction, thanks.

[@BinkySocks]

Thanks very much for the tute. Does this formula also cover pear or square shaped stones?

[@stellajohnson-vives7055]

Fantastic

[@alonzomozeris9055]

you make that look easy. I have yet to try this.

[@Alessandra.M.]

Are you using fine silver or sterling silver wire for this bezel? Thank you :)

[@scottcomber]

Fantastic Videos Andrew, do you have any on gem selections? Like how to pick gems or the right gem for the job.

[@dmpag7000]

excellent

[@deborahhardeman8802]

What gage bezel wire is best to be able to saw the bezel wire? I tend to use thin wire that can’t be sawed nut use flush cutters.

[@wenseager5474]

Hi there! I want to set a large oval jasper cabuchon (45mm x 30mm) in a ring setting, can't find anything online and could use some help? 😅🙏🏼

[@chd64]

hello Andrew, i really appreciate all your videos, Im currently brushing up on all areas of since an extremely long absence of making. is there any chance you could make a video on micro tap and die sets, having trouble and have snapped a few bits already but at the same time have made some perfect screws, male and female sections. Im working with 1.6mm brass/silver tubing thank you very much

[@95missnicole]

I love that u have a charm bracelet lol

[@SoleilMagica]

Does the thickness of the stone have to match the height of the bezel? How do I calculate how high my bezel needs to be per cabochon?

[@sulysaldana5867]

Fabulous!!!!

[@shadowofahedgehog7139]

Can you make a video how to make a ring in the exact size?

[@libertiner1380]

Please make a video on making a signet ring without all kinds off special tools, I have an hell geggint the right dimensions when trying.

[@janicew01]

If you want a step bezel for the inside would it be the same formula minus the thickness of the bezel?

[@la-zh6hz]

Hello, I am French, a little bit hard to understand everything but it seems so interesting!! If I have understood, to calculate the length of a bezel, if my cabochon measures 4cm*5cm and the width of the bezel is 0,3cm It is (4,5+0.6)*3.14=14,73 cm long ?? Thanks for the answer. I find it quite long for a small stone.....

[@la-zh6hz]

Oups, I realize I made a mistake, my back base is not in cm but it is 0,3 mm. It changes everything!!! The length is more "true". Anyway, even if the language is a difficulty, your explanations help me a lot, thank you.

[@maureenceo9422]

Your videos are fantastic and I have learned so much. Just took a six-week course and was taught that the bezel should be made using fine silver only. Then apply that bezel to a sterling silver backplate. Does it really matter if the bezel is fine silver or can I use sterling too? Thanks!

[@Atthebench]

It doesn’t matter at all. It will just cost more if it’s fine silver

[@aliceharvey1226]

Andrew Berry But wouldn’t the fine silver be much easier to push over?

[@philstevens566]

what do you do if you have an obscure shaped stone?

[@redeyestones3738]

I work with mostly freeform opal cabs. You have a way to find the perfect length for bezels for freeform cabs? Mine are always a little too short, or a little too long.

[@Atthebench]

Trial and error I’m afraid

[@redeyestones3738]

@@Atthebench figured. Never hurts to ask. 😆

[@robpetesworkshop]

Thanks Andrew for your tutorials , they have been extremely helpfull over the years!

[@flyingcheff]

Andrew, can you please address the meniscus on a bezel. The one you made is lovely. I have those lovelies more and more these days, thanks to you! But then, even though I place my solder from the outside to avoid any build-up, it still seems that the meniscus of the solder can block the smooth slide-in of the stone (it slid in perfectly before soldering to the backplate, why doesn't it fit?), making it necessary to stretch the bezel a bit (unsightly sometimes) even though I "did it right" the first time. I know sometimes it's the poor cut of a cabochon (no bevel on the bottom edge), but what is the proper technique for fixing this situation? Thanks so much.

[@marisarodriguez7776]

Thanks for this helped with what I'm doing 😘😘❤thank uuuu

[@7poser7assassin7]

Hello Mr. Berry. Love all of your videos. I have a question for you on this one. When calculating the average diameter and using a bezel that is 5 mm thick, why do you only add .5 instead of 1 mm? I would think you would need to add a whole millimeter considering the bezel goes around both sides of the stone. Obviously your way works well I'm just curious.

[@ffaubert1]

Hi. It's because you are looking at half the thickness of the wire plus the average diameter of the stone plus another half the thickness of the wire. What that equals to is the average diameter of the stone plus (2 times half the thickness) the thickness of the wire. Remember that the meeting place for soldering is the centre thickness point in the wire, not the inside or outside edge. Does that make sense?

[@natishamosier921]

Hi. Will this work on a heart shaped stone?

[@Atthebench]

No as the stones are completely different shapes

[@pijnto]

That was a really good video, trouble is I get lazy and just wrap around the stone and cut it off

[@viclangstud]

What if your stone is not perfectly oval? Will it make an imperfect bezel?

[@saturdaysr4theboys125]

I’ve just found out that boric and borax are different. I have boric powdered acid but realized you need borax to coat your crucible. I heard you can pick this up at a grocery store if so does it have to be a certain borax ? Please help. Thank you

[@aliceharvey1226]

Saturdays R 4 The Boys He has a video on preparing a new crucible, worth watching.

[@tamaradvorsky4166]

Great tutorial!. Can you use the same technique for triangles, round and square cabochons? I realize that one may not have a mandrel for the square, triangular or rectangular bezels, so what do you do in that case? Do the corners of the triangular or square/rectangular cabs require additional length in the bezel wire? Thanks for any further advice. Bezels are my challenge right now.

[@jokevedehaa]

For round you just use the same calculations as you would for a ring. Diameter+thickness of the metal * pi. I was thaught to us a thickness around .6 mm

[@mandeepkaurjammu8963]

Can you make a video on how to make jewellery

[@jackofnone599]

But isn't the equation (2pi)sqrt((a^2+b^2)/2)) where a and b are the major and minor radii?

[@viniciuslealdesousa7718]

How make round of cabochon to glue in this circle ?

[@donnapierce4073]

Do you have any training for Native American turquoise jewelry?

[@ronsfi]

Andrew. Why can't you mark your length on each end, over lap the ends so the marks align, then make one cut through both layers, thereby creating the same cut for both ends. It seems to me they would match perfectly. Why not one cut instead of two?

[@stellajohnson-vives7055]

What to do if too short

[@emineminethompson5105]

Do you use fine silver for the bezel or sterling silver? Thanks Emine

[@Atthebench]

I’ve always used sterling. Never needed to use fine silver.

[@emineminethompson5105]

@@Atthebench Many thanks for the quick reply. I have been told use fine silver but i will try to use sterling now. Great videos!

[@wormemc]

@@Atthebench what thickness are you using?

[@shanehendren4723]

Would you be kind and post the equation you used to get the final measurement please.

[@shanehendren4723]

Please disregard I started looking at earlier post and found it, Thank Yo.

[@rifald6595]

Bagus caranya

[@tierneyrose110]

Why not just use a string to measure the length for the bezel?

[@Dan-ji4db]

How would the measurement differ for a totally round bezel?

[@Atthebench]

Just measure the diameter, add the thickness of the wire and multiply by 3.142

[@Dan-ji4db]

@@Atthebench thanks 😁

[@flyingcheff]

swarf?

[@jeannettesalazar6442]

❤😊

[@davidergle4334]

Ok

[@kathybradbury]

For me it’s easier just to wrap the bezel around the stone and cut it- mental block when it comes to math🤓

[@RockyMountainBear]

I could kiss you! I won't, but I could. ...I would settle for a Bear hug. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! ..... Thank you.

[@1827handmade]

I clicked dislike by accident sorry, clicked like though after that, thanks for this video!

[@khelafaek5071]

Lot of speakes!

[@sal8454]

Too much maths 😩

[@mary-annkieckhaben5026]

Thank you so much.