How to Make Custom Pants | Women's Pattern Block (Part 1 - Draft)

(**Plus Size adjustment BELOW)
~ MENS ADJUSTMENTS
(4:50) Crotch Depth = + 1-1/2" ease
(11:55) Hip Level Line = 6" down from C.F. @ Waist
(26:42) Front Crotch Curve = +1-3/4"
(28:45) +3/4" Towards Side Seam
(28:55) +3/4" Up
(29:53) +1-3/4" (Same as women's)
**PLUS SIZE
(24:31) Front Crotch Extension = Fold into "THIRDS"
This video covers the basics on drafting custom Women’s Dress Pants (pleated trousers). Follow my video exactly or use your own measurements! This is all the same techniques we use in the fashion industry. I will help you with potential issues and problem solving, and we will do a test fitting during the 4th & 5th videos. In other videos, I will also show your how to adjustment this draft into Jean/Denim Draft. As well as making Waistbands, Pockets, & installing Zippers.
Do you want to learn the adjustments for plus size, mature figure, stretch (yoga), + more pockets & waistband variations? I highly recommend the fashion schools textbook "Patternmaking Made Easy" by Connie Amaden-Crawford. There's more information about drafting all types of pants & styling. I love that her books are made with the hard-cover + spiral-bound spine, so it's easy to lay flat on a table! It contains everything you can imagine for making custom apparel with the fashion industry methods and techniques. Enjoy.

[@NadoCrowFriend]

And Thank you for all the great tips too!

[@Dailycalmness]

You’re awesome. Love your videos, very clear and precise. Keep them coming :)

[@NadoCrowFriend]

As always: fabulous tutorial!

[@viewer8700]

Im learning so much! 💕 thanks for sharing! I can start making my pattern now. 😁

[@dianakidd5688]

I only recently discovered your KZbin pattern drafting videos, but I have fallen in love with your clear and concise instructions. Thank you for these useful, high quality, informational videos!

[@HappiCamper]

Great tip on measuring the crotch depth level!

[@joannfagen4457]

Excellent video, thank you.

[@Rachel-yi8yy]

Hello there , Wow you explain it well so easy to follow along really great channel 😻

[@geethanigeethani608]

Your very tallented 💖💖💖grate work💪👍

[@simplysuperb5136]

You are too good Sir. Very professional. Am happy that I came across your video. Love and respect from Chennai, India. 🙏

[@lisacairns7284]

Subscribed. So glad I found your channel. I've been watching videos all week and they just don't make sense until yours. So easy to follow. I'm a beginner but I want to learn to draft my own patterns instead of shop bought as I am not a standard size and fed up of never being able to buy ''petite' I'm confident I can make make my own following your videos. Thank you

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Did you complete the Basic Bodice?

[@TheSoggySalmon]

Thank you for the digital indicators you used to help emphasize lines/grain/points! I found them to be very helpful - the one improvement I might make would be to bump up the contrast on said indicators. Thanks again for this helpful and thorough video!

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Yeah, I'm trying to keep some of the graphics very subtle because my pencil marks should be the most important reference. Thanks for the input! :)

[@lydiali2095]

Love it, thanks

[@janeahrens572]

Never mind, I just found it. I like her stuff too. But it’s a pricy book!

[@machoprotegido5607]

I just subscribed!

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Welcome!

[@Rachel-yi8yy]

Just looked up the book your using it’s not cheap 😯

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Look for "used" textbook! It has soooo much information, i will keep mine for a lifetime.

[@kissmaliss]

Great instructions glad I came across this. May I ask what book are you using?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

"Patternmaking Made Easy" by Connie Amaden-Crawford. ...but I am doing this in a different sequence of events, because I like to find the grain of CF & CB before doing the darts @ waist.

[@jennypacheco5498]

Subscribed

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

what r u gonna work on?

[@jennypacheco5498]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel ive always had a problem with sleeves. The set in sleeve. That, and ive been looking for a simple bodice draft. Still have to explore your videos. Right now a cyclone is raging outside. Very happy to have found your channel. Thanks

[@airbender7025]

The most special thing on this tutorial is the grainline balance and how it measure waist height from 3 starting points, very accurate. The downside is, it is still using assumed measurement for several area including crotch. This assumed number will work out only for standard size people.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Pls move through the pant series and you will find that it get's more & more custom as you go deeper into the continuing draft video parts and then especially after you sew a test-fit in muslin and proceed to the problem solving video for all different body types. Let me know the results. Cheers :)

[@dianneunderwood8456]

I have been searching for a Clear French Curve. Most come in sets with other rulers for drafting and wonder if it is possible to find one without other pieces. Are you willing to share what brand yours is and if it may be available in Canada? Thank you By the way I am working on doing the pants drafting and am so enjoying your series. Will tackle the bodice next as I would like see how it comes out for fit.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Search this on Amazon: Lance FC-1 French Curve, 9"

[@kefahabuelula5322]

Hey professor can you give us the measurement in centimetres l,m a bigener and your video very helpful

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

It is all custom work, so don't follow my measurements. Please follow the same directions using YOUR personal measurements in centimeters.

[@kefahabuelula5322]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel thank you so much

[@saresmaieli3627]

Excuseme can i use this pattern for comfortable trousers like pijamas or ...??

[@Kabodnm]

What would I do differently if I were tailoring a man when it comes to taking measurements and creating a block?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Look at my written video description - "*Mens adjustments BELOW" - select to "see more" for the adjustments and at what's minutes they occur.

[@lauraellerton8844]

Hi. Been watching your videos for the last 2 days. Can you advise what changes I would need to make for a Childs pattern. Cannot find anything for my 11 year old son, who is really tall.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Simply do this same draft but using his measurements. Also note that he will probably only have one dart in the front and one dart in the back. Also look at my comments for each video, to get the men’s adjustments.

[@marilynbrowne-kirby6851]

Hi Professor Would the third edition of this book have in the same pant pattern?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Yes, Pant Draft is in 3rd Ed. (The new additions usually just have some minor tweaks to sentences, chapter layouts and a lot of updated illustrations.)

[@alexamombravo9788]

What is the text book your referring on this video? Pls and thank you. 🥰

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

patternmaking made easy by connie amaden-crawford

[@saresmaieli3627]

Excueme Can we reduce the width of the front crotch and increase the width of the back crotch instead ? If the width of the front crotch decreases, won't the front of the pants get better?

[@akankizaangel]

Thanks you sir this is useful information expecially for beginner...can I have the name of the text book

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

patternmaking made easy by connie amaden-crawford

[@akankizaangel]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel thanks James.

[@pattygilbert9335]

Before drawing the back crotch curve you offset the center back point by a half inch. Are you suggesting that everyone use 1/2", or should we be measuring that to determine our own custom value?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

(28:37) CB @ Waist 1/2" IN & 1/2" UP is an adjustment for everyone...to start with. Then as you progress with "test fittings" you will find that you can take away more from the CB @ Waist according to your own custom fit. Maybe go check out the "fitting video" & watch starting at (28:07) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYi2initeN1peqs

[@pattygilbert9335]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel Thanks!

[@Kabodnm]

Hey professor. If the crotch depth is over a inch of what’s on the drawing board, where should I go back to double check?

[@Kabodnm]

After reviewing everything, what i did wrong was go over 1 3/4 on my 45 degree angle by the back crotch curve

[@anniepatriciafashionhouse1884]

I would love to take a class with you please how do I go about it as I live in Nigeria

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Start here with the Basic Bodice. Each video will lead you into the next, in the correct order. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p37Pc6KdrticnKM

[@Kabodnm]

Hey professor, so I took my C.B to ankle and it’s 43 but my C.F to Ankle is only 39. Is that common or did I measure wrong? Because yours C.B to Ankle and C.F to ankle was only a half inch difference. I’m measuring a man also. Does that make a difference?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Your male measurements are probably correct. Usually for mens wear they like pants low cut in the front and higher in the back. continue through the process and you will do several more adjustments during the cut&sew muslin fitting.

[@Kabodnm]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel thanks.

[@user-fp1hs3mf8f]

Would this work to make jeans?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

This draft is for basic block similar to "work trouser" w/ pleats. But, once you have the fit correct, you can adjust it for jeans. I am working on a "Fitting" video and another video to show pockets & waistbands. Maybe...I should also make one for shaping the legs = Jeans.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

You can start the "Jeans" video series, after you finish your Basic Block.

[@gloriahilaire687]

Where can I buy this tracing paper

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

its called "matrix paper" or "dotted pattern paper". www.amazon.com/Montada-Pattern-Paper-Sewing-Numeric/dp/B09BBM3DBB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3KHM6L0RPWT20&keywords=alpha+numeric+dotted+marking+paper&qid=1647317246&sprefix=alpha+numer%2Caps%2C372&sr=8-2

[@janeahrens572]

What’s the text book?

[@tycovey5760]

Would this work the same way with men’s pants? Just use the measurements for men

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Yes, but only 1-dart in the center front (11:40 video #3) and 1-dart in the back (14:40 video #3) . (Because our hip vs waist measurement is not very different.) (You can take away the darts later when you make a back yoke & lower waistband level.)

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

ohhh...this video #1 @ the front crotch guide for the french curve shape, make it larger to make room for the "jewels". (26:50 make it 1-3/4" ...or more.)

[@machoprotegido5607]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel Thank you!

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

I added "Men's Adjustments" inside the comments. (Click on each highlighted "minute" to JUMP to that place in the video.)

[@Homesewer7]

Hello professor James, At 26:48, the caption shows “Measure 1-1/4” (1-1/8” for Petite “) Does “Petite “ means people whose height is 5’4” or less? I’m drafting for a young female, 5 feet tall with small waist and flat tummy. However, she has runners legs with prominent upper thighs and a good derrière. Should I use 1/3 for the front crotch extension? As for the 45 degree guideline, should I use 1-1/8” because she is petite? Store bought pants always get pulled in the back at crotch level. Thank you for your generosity!

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

yes she would be petite, go through the full process and you can do adjustments during the "muslin test fit".

[@Homesewer7]

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions 😊. You are a great teacher!

[@Homesewer7]

Hello professor James, I finally made a pants muslin that fit my girl (after 3 tries). The front crotch extension is 1/3, per your suggestion for curvy figures. The CB is in 1/2” and up 2”. That 2 inches up at CB eliminates the pull on the back crotch that she always has with pants and makes the pants fit her bum perfectly. However, now the CB is like an arrow pointing up. Is there a way that I can extend the back crotch point instead of raising the CB? In your video you had said to keep the back crotch point as is and that what I did, but I just couldn’t draw a nice curve for the waist line. These are her measurements, she’s 5 feet tall: Waist: 27 1/4, hip: 38 3/4, crotch depth: 10 5/8, crotch length: 29 1/4. Thank you so much for your time.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

@@Homesewer7 Start the video part-3 @ 21min, this is for correcting the back waistline. This is when you will fix the "arrow pointing up" = you square the back waistline at center back. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qabTd3uIZbqEqLc

[@Homesewer7]

Thank you again for your time. My girl finally can have pants that fit her properly.

[@christinabarnes1105]

Hi James. I have a question. I’m trying to make a pair of pajamas out of a pair of jeans that I have. The jeans fit good, even in the Waist and crotch. But the pants jeans legs are to small around the legs. So I need to add more around the legs for pajamas. So where is my start point should be to add more ? With out messing with the waist and crotch on my pants.

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

The easy answer is, don't start with finished jeans. If you are doing your own patternmaking, then do this series 1-3 for the "custom pattern block". Pajamas will fit amazing in the waist, hips and crotch depth and you don't need any darts if you do elastic waist. (Note the draft goes up to your natural waist = eventual you will cut this down a few inches for top of your PJs)

[@christinabarnes1105]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel WHERE IS SERIES 1-3 at?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

This video is the part-1@@christinabarnes1105

[@gloriahilaire687]

Where can I buy this book

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

Look up "patternmaking made easy by connie amaden-crawford" and see if you can find it used. Fashion Students buy and sell this book each year. Some of them keep it for life. If you buy brand new it's very expensive, but you will keep it forever and reference all types of industry professional patternmaking. (I did the cover artwork for edition #2.)

[@gloriahilaire687]

Thank you

[@vivekraj4930]

Sir, by adjusting the crotch measurement (ex..3/16) than the standard hip position from waist (7") Was also increased to 7 3/16....is that possible sir.... And also the back hip circumference also larger than the actual measurements .. So, please clarify my doubt sir......

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

please tell me what video you are working on? and what minutes is your question occurring?

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

I added "Men's Adjustments" inside the comments. (Click on each highlighted "minute" to JUMP to that place in the video.)

[@marilynbrowne-kirby6851]

Hi Professor James, I just came across your video and want to make me some pants. Which text book are you using ? I have subscribed to your channel. I am so excited and love your video. I have been trying to construct a pant for myself for the longest while but never the right fit Thank you

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

​@@marilynbrowne-kirby6851 "Patternmaking Made Easy" by Connie Amaden-Crawford. ...but I am doing this in a different sequence of events, because I like to find the grain of CF & CB before doing the darts @ waist.

[@saresmaieli3627]

Excuse me , 1-3/4" means minus???

[@ProfessorJamesChannel]

same as 1.75in

[@saresmaieli3627]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel ok🙏🙏

[@saresmaieli3627]

@@ProfessorJamesChannel Excuse me, I have a question, if you can help me If we reduce the width of the crotch in the front of the pants, is it effective in the beauty of the pants? In some methods (for one size), the front crotch width is, for example, 6, but in others it is 5 or 4 which one is better ?? And give us better pants? I'm sorry if I wrote bad English

[@Dailycalmness]

You’re awesome. Love your videos, very clear and precise. Keep them coming :)