How to make custom sized router templates | Make repeatable and accurate cuts with your router

[@Greg-tl8rj]

I like the amount of detail you gave in your video. Good work! Thank you for the help.

[@homebuiltshop]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jmkelly7710]

I'm literally here because I spend too much time routing out the back of clocks for the "movement" and just thought today-> "hey I should make a template for this!" I've never felt like I belonged more😅 Thanks!

[@jacquesmersereau4173]

Maybe I missed it but it appears you completely left out which bit to use and why and all that stuff which matters greatly imo.

[@binnsbrian]

I would have liked to see the template bit and how it worked.

[@homebuiltshop]

Doh, I should have thought of that. I'll have to do a short follow up. Sorry about that.

[@potsy9973]

Fot tighter tolerances put aside the roller bit and use a template guide and a bit for doing inlays. they come in 1/2 and a full inch long the best part avout them is they have a hella thin needle bit for getting in there where a bearing won't. You just need a plate that accepts the brass guides and the guides them selves. I use mine for lots of things so it was worth the extra, Plus they will allow you to do some cool inlays in quick time.

[@2AChef-n-BBQ]

Glad it was the shop vac, for a minute there I thought you had a guest off cam😂🤣😂

[@homebuiltshop]

That crazy vacuum, its been screeching like that for a couple of years but it just keeps on going. Lol.

[@2AChef-n-BBQ]

@@homebuiltshop it's a beast

[@guyh.4553]

I was thinking exactly to use my scroll saw. Why ½" MDF? All the "commercial" templates they are ¼" plexiglass. Wouldn't ¼" or ⅜" hardboard work instead? Just curious. Thanks for the video, I learned a lot! 😊😊😊

[@homebuiltshop]

I like the thicker templates. They're much more rigid and the wider surface gives plenty of room for the bearing to ride on. You could use 1/4" material and it would work but there's not a ton of space for the bearing. I won't buy the "commercial" ones if they're thin. That's just my preference though.

[@Mark_L]

Your template was exact size but how did you account for the bushing was my first thought. With a bit of thinking….. oh ya, flush trim bit. Stay curious.

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

09:13 Sure - but what guitarist will play the damn thing? Is it *Slash* ?

[@MakinSawdust]

*_Great video Jeff_*

[@homebuiltshop]

Thanks man!

[@greg4272]

You could just attach straight edge guides by the lines and using a copying bearing router bit just router it out in one go. You would save the scroll sawing and filing process. The only places you need to go down to handwork is at the ears of the pick up. Faster, more precise.

[@PuffsDragon]

If I need to have the corners squared I will pencil mark them from the template then when done routing use a small saw of sorts to cut the corner. Good vid thanks.

[@homebuiltshop]

Yes, That's a great idea. I never thought of marking them right from the template.

[@mrkrause3]

Thanks for sharing!

[@steveiv9250]

Great video. Quick question. When your making your template should you not be compensating for the router bits bushing / bearing ?

[@homebuiltshop]

I generally use a flush trim bit in my router. They cut exactly the same size as the template. If you use a bushing, then yes, you should compensate for whatever size you're using.

[@steveiv9250]

@@homebuiltshop thank you

[@SamSelim]

Nice, thanks

[@baylonaj]

Howaboot inset barn door pulls eh?

[@rickculpepper709]

Yea more about the router bit

[@homebuiltshop]

I'll do a follow up about the bits.

[@oldmantwofour5561]

Ok. Curious. Who else spotted the Crimson Guitars oil bottle on the bench?

[@homebuiltshop]

Good Eye!

[@tonyw2626]

Did I miss something there I didn’t see any guide bush you might as well just done it freehand