How To: Marine Electrical Seminar - Battery Isolators - Ep 11/30

[@MrTequilatroll]

Hi Jeff! Great channel, learning so mutch from youre videos and seminars. In the installation manual from the Victron Argo fett battery isolator it says the following: 4. Connect the ‘Energize’ blade terminal to the engine run/stop switch (optional). Minimum cable cross section: 2,5 mm². It says it's optional, but what does that function do and what happens if you don't plug that cable in according to the manual and what happens if you do plug it in according to the manual?? I am going to mount this battery isolator on my Sailboat from 1980 ( im redoing the entire elektrical system on the boat) and it has an old 63A generator with the regulator inside of the generatorand and this is how i think it works. The charging lamp is located between the ignition lock and the magnetization of the generator (D+). When you turn on the ignition, voltage goes through the battery light down to the generator's D+ (which actually has a ground potential when it is stationary) and premagnetizes the generator winding. How should I then connect the battery isolator so that it is correctly installed on my boat? (Sorry about the spelling im from Sweden)

[@DeanColegate]

Hi Jeff, Thanks for the great videos they really help to cement the knowledge I'm gaining from reading Nigel Calder etc. My question follows on from reading about the Sterling DC to DC Chargers. They seem to isolate House and Starter banks just like these Victron Isolators but they also regulate the charging of both banks. Are DC to DC Chargers a viable (and maybe better) alternative to a Battery Isolator? Thanks. Dean

[@cucogiron]

Great video! I just installed 2 solar panels on my boat with a Victron smart mppt controler, then I used a Victron Argofed battery isolator to distribute the charge to my house bank and starter battery. It seems to be working fine but now I’m concerned if this setup will over charge my batteries? And would it be a good idea to connect my shore power charger to the same battery isolator? Thanks a lot Jeff!

[@craigbuchner9756]

Jeff, just watched episode #10 Combiners (ACR) and then #11 FET. Why would I use an ACR instead of FET?

[@johnodonovan2009]

Thanks Jeff, great info. That last question about the smart combiner v/s emergency start was a great one. Do we need extra wiring and a manual switch, or is the smart combiner manually configurable to allow connection? Cheers!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi John, luckily some battery combiners either automatically parallel battery banks together, or they can also be manually forced in parallel with a switch on the battery combiner itself or even a remote small switch located in more convenient location.

[@GaryMCurran]

Okay, twin engine installation. You have two alternators, two start batteries, and one house bank. Would you use two isolators, one for each engine, and can both engines charge the house bank at the same time? I don't have a boat, probably will never have one, but I'm curious as to how that would work, if at all.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Gary, yep your correct. Install a dedicated battery isolator per alternator/engine and therefore have that alternator/engine recharge it's own starting battery and the house battery.

[@PDW79140]

Should the alternator input be fused?

[@thomasbendowski2226]

Hi, Jeff, thanks for the wonderful information in your videos. These have helped greatly with my understanding of my boat's electrical systems! You had mentioned in the battery combiner video that you should not use banks of different sizes. When using an isolator can I have a starter battery and a 2 battery house bank (connected in parallel) connected to the isolater? All would be similar chemistry.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Thomas, thanks for feedback. Recall the purpose of the battery isolator is that each battery connected to the battery isolator is NOT connected to one another (i.e. in parallel). With a battery isolator you can have a engine battery and house battery connected to a single battery isolator. Also, it's worth emphasizing, battery isolators do NOT regulate battery voltage. In other words, the voltage is regulated by the alternator regulator and NOT the battery isolator.

[@thomasbendowski2226]

@@PacificYachtSystems Thanks!!

[@andya2636]

Will this isolator work with a stator?

[@joebeylana5164]

Can you have a battery isolator with two inputs? one for the alternator and another one for the shore power battery charger? 3 outputs, starter battery, house battery and truster?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

It's technically doable, but Victron only offers battery isolators with only one alternator input.

[@rickdiaz929]

Jeff, Hello love your videos. I have installed the Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolator, 100A, 2 Batt.,is it necessary to upgrade my alternator from the 55 amp it came with in the 80s to a 100 amp (one wire)? If so from what I have read not all alternators are created equal are the one wire car type alternators suitable for this application? Background I have never owned a boat or wanted a boat until one fell in my lap. A 1985 Rea Ray Cuddy Cruiser, it came as a wiring mess with 2 car start batteries and a A, B, Both , none leave me stranded manual switch. I have split the wiring into a dedicated start with proper battery for the engine and dedicated house deep cycle. Which brings be to the above question.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Upgrading an alternator is NOT a prerequisite for having a 100 amp battery isolator. If you choose to upgrade your alternator it's to recharge your batteries faster.

[@robtheplod]

Good video Jeff!. I currently have a SurePower 702 with my alternator and shore battery charger together as an input, going out to my (1)starter and (2)bow thruster batteries. You mention the Victron ArgoFet only accepts alternator input.... can i not do the same as with current 702 and combine alternator and charger inputs then?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good question, but unfortunately don't know for sure if your suggestion will work. Not sure of any unknown implications of having alternator and solar controller on the same input of the battery isolator. Please let us know how it goes if you try it.

[@jens5934]

Hi and firstly, thank you for going through all the efforts to bring us these videos. I was wondering if it is possible to connect the alternator and solar together on the "input" connection, to charge the isolated batteries?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Jens, for reasons of redundancy keep solar and alternator separate.

[@3Repete]

My 87 Formula has a single Mercruiser sterndrive and a 2 battery electrical setup with the 1,2, both and off switch. I primarily day-dunk it, with a week or two each year in the lake overnight. The batteries are not the same. One is a group 27 and one is a group 24. Is it wrong to run with them both selected? I normally start with the big battery, but it's nice to have the other in reserve. I'd like to charge up the 24 on my way to the hangout if possible. I suppose I could get things going on the 27 and after a few minutes I could switch over. One of these days I will do an isolator? LOL

[@PacificYachtSystems]

When paralleling batteries, the most important thing is not the size of the batteries but the intended purpose: deep-cycle or starter battery. Preferably to not have a starter battery running deep cycle loads.

[@jaketarren]

My solar controller only has one output, so I'm putting an ACR in to have it maintain both banks. I was thinking that the ACR would kick in when the alternator is running too, but now I think I'd like to add an isolator as well. How would the two interact together?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Jake, you can have both. A battery isolator to charge two batteries from a alternator. The battery combiner will be to charge two battery banks with solar. Both can operate at the same time.

[@jaketarren]

@@PacificYachtSystems Thanks! I don't have to do anything special when hooking up the solar and ACR right?

[@seanlathbury5410]

I'm not sure I can tell the difference. Most have fins.... Mine, from the 80s is a Newmar 1AIT....70 amp.....lots of fins. It sounds like the inefficient type you describe. Can you confirm? Your videos are a big help! Thank you

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Sean, based on the age of your isolator it's definitely a diode combiner. Thanks for watching.

[@seanlathbury5410]

Excellent! Thank you for the help.

[@micahblack454]

Will these fet isolators work for outboard engines? Knowing they use a stator instead of alternator and provide much less amperage.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Micah, it would be hard to do, as you'd need to remove the jumper between the alternator and the starter solenoid and then run a new wire outside of the outboard from the alternator positive post. Would NOT recommend it. Instead of a battery isolator use a battery combiner.

[@nonobebert7646]

What's The difference of use with a Blue Sea ACR ?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Olivier, a ACR is battery combiner and puts two batteries in parallel whenever their is a charging voltage. A battery isolator shares one alternator charging to multiple battery banks.

[@nonobebert7646]

@@PacificYachtSystems There's something I don't understand. On the "off" position, no current is available, on the "on" position, the current is available and the batteries are isolated, and on the "combine" position the current is available with all the batteries combined. So the ACR on the "on" position works like an isolator ?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Olivier Bert, which model of the bluesea ACR are you referring too?

[@nonobebert7646]

I have the Blue Sea SI-ACR 7610 with the Dual circuit Battery switch 5511e

[@exkinky]

Jeff, how do you connect two alternators to two battery banks as on a catamaran?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Suggest you install a 1 input to 2 output battery isolator on each alternator output.

[@exkinky]

Thank you, that’s what I was thinking too.

[@ameenseamood1895]

Hello sir, can I ask you question please, I have boat has single inboard engine mercruiser 5.0, and I have two battery bank for the engine need to replace with new one, I wonder can I mix two type of batter one flooded acid as jump starting 90Ah and the second is AGM deep cycle 100Ah, is that safe if they connected with my engine to charging and support power for the boat?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Ameed SeaMood, definitely not advisable to mix and match battery chemistry if they are part of one battery bank or if they are connected to same charging source. On a charger, you can only select one battery chemistry/type.

[@dalansingson]

@@PacificYachtSystems Similar question, but different. I have the alternator to an isolator. One side goes to a 12v DC-DC charger for LiFePo4 house bank. The other side goes to charge a FLA starter battery. Do I need a protector on the FLA? Will the DC-DC charger make the alternator cook my FLA battery? My thought is the DC-DC charger will keep the alternator engaged therefore cooking the FLA.

[@XRM473]

Is this necessary with twin outboards with inbuilt VSR’s?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Michael, nope. VSRs are battery combiners and share charging voltage to other batteries.

[@steef6268]

So, on output 1 i connect my starter or my house battery on it? Or that doesnt matter?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Always connect your biggest deep cycle battery to output 1 as some chargers are modeling the charge curve based on what voltage is sense on output 1.

[@jackforey]

can both my engines charge the house bank at same time?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Yep, it's doable with a battery isolator or a battery combiner.

[@davidperry7676]

sounds good in theory but a technical disaster. this is why salesmen should never be engineers.