How-To On Servicing The DMU/EMU Power Bogie Motor. Hornby Triang.

[@leokimvideo]

I did like the proper ground hack idea. I love these power units, they are powerful and fun to run around as a solo speedster on the tracks

[@JohnPW22]

Stipped down a couple of Tri-ang Princesses today and the motors looked too tired - watched this - and now I'm going to go and make them work!!! Thanks!

[@jonlord9050]

Having spent the afternoon stripping down one of these, I now wish I’d watched your video first. It took some finding but I’m glad I did. Tomorrow I’m going to do it again, and this time add the additional ground. I spent over an hour trying to get the brushes back in as I’d left the components soldered in. Now I know what’s what I will definitely follow your lead, many thanks.

[@shedhead00]

I bought a dead triang continental r55, and after watching this brought it back to life, and thank you for teaching me how to solder correctly in a previous video, cheers Bobby

[@DaveBQ1]

Just been servicing two power bogies. Following John as I go. fifty years of accumulated grime removed. Running like new fitted with John's wheels. In the words of the master. COOL.

[@dabunnymanPM]

Great video, highly informative brilliantly done and professional advice, thanks it's been extremely helpful returning a Blue Pullman 40yrs out of action to life again.

[@jadymulqueeney]

Thank you. This video was very helpful. I learned how to service, and managed to resurrect my 50 year old Tri-ang Diesel. It now runs beatifully.

[@barrycollin7462]

He's a very good and thorough tutor showing all the difficult bits clearly as well as the easy ones. I just wish my soldering skills were up to his.

[@bentleyjayperkins5188]

This was a massive help to me in restoring my father's R159 double ended diesel. Sadly the motor has had its day even after all the resto work to bring her back to life. I'm now considering using my engineering skill, 3D printer and wiring knowledge to bring her up to date with a more modern motor setup.

[@EvilBob2001]

Great video - with no experience with electric trains, I managed to resurrect a 1957 Tri-Ang double-ended diesel from this video. I still can't quite believe the bogie went first time I put it on the tracks. Thanks so much, John. You made me and my son very happy.

[@OldSonyMan]

I was bought a brand new Hornby BR green DMU for my birthday back in 1976, I loved it as I thought it represented the exciting 'Modern image of BR ! Anyways some years later it started to splutter and make lots of sparks before dying on me ! I was never gifted in the 'Repairs Department' but I can now see that it was because of the failure in one of the 'Positive side' wheel insulating bushes and I also recall that one of the wheels was 'Wobbly' which would make sense if it's centre was loose ! Before I make a start on fixing this (together with busted examples of the other uses of this bogie motor I've acquired over the years) I do worry about re-magnetization of the motor but before purchasing one of those machines maybe I should look into getting someone else to do it ! Anyways thanks to this video, I've got 'Visions' of Pullmans and TCs and dockyard shunters and DMUs, all performing like new again, even if it takes me awhile to get around to them ! ! !

[@gasman6996]

I think your the man to do the definitive video on chipping a really difficult live split chassis as I haven't seen one done yet.

[@chambs123]

gasman6996 Hi mate & big thanks for the comment/intriguing idea! OK, To be honest chipping ANY locomotive for DCC is really bloody simple....regardless of age or brand! I think you are correct....I think it is about time for me to do a video & describe all the various ways accordingly. I'll do this asap. All the very best, John.

[@ashlybrown5341]

Where would we be without you just fantastic , great learning thank you

[@johngibson4641]

Thanks John for a great and informative video ,, you have taught me more in the half hour of this video than i have learnt in my 54 trips around the planet so thankyou. Cheers from John in Australia.

[@peterbell3657]

Thanks ever so much for your video John it is priceless, i'am a Granddad who knows nothing at all about maintaining Hornby trains, followed your video to the letter, have to say you make it look simple, the Bogie i'am repairing is the R253 so i connected the new earth to housing underneath the headlight as there wasn't enough space to fit it in as you did. Many thanks again look forward to more of videos.

[@chambs123]

Thanks Peter. As I always say to people who comment on my service videos....glad to have been of service/help. Kind regards, John.

[@HORNEBEEDUBLO]

Thanks for another very informative video. I have recently collected a Tri-ang R159 that badly needs a service and this video will be very useful. I use Isopropyl alcohol when servicing. I use an old toothbrush soaked in this to clean the teeth on the cogwheels and the worms. I find it easier to reinsert the brushes from above the brusholder than below. Finally the Tri-ang/Hornby service sheets state: 'to avoid loss of magnetism when dismantling, a suitable keeper must be applied to the magnet'.

[@dodgydruid]

Had a bit of a win, won a job lot of odds and ends and inside is a pristine power car from the Blue Pullman, the chassis snapped but visit to ebay found me a replacement chassis and now to just service the motor and I have the business end of a blue pullman set as the motor was in the box of bits. This has been the box that keeps giving, two full Hornby girder bridge sets, level crossings, static engines and wagons, metal water cranes, a perfect Jouef choc and cream coach, lineside clutter and buildings, several sets of working semaphore signals and all for under £20 for the lot including the pristine power car... now to source some intermediate coaches and a trailer and for the first time since 1974 I will have a brother destroying free Pullman set yay

[@johnc2ful]

your video has encouraged me to have a go at my second hand Pullman. Its in pieces now up in the loft as per the first part of your video. I am now watching how to put it back together. Your video is fantastic.

[@duncanwatson9054]

Thank you for a great video. I do this for my Triang motors. I found it informative for those who have never done this. I did not find anything you did not cover.

[@brianevans5116]

What a nice video going through everything I have lots of engines been in the barn for 40 years now going to start thanks you very much excellent

[@tonygardner9896]

I didn't realise how old this video was until Maplin was mentioned! :-) I have worked on the old Triang/Hornby motors for years, but I have still learned a lot from this and the previous video that dealt with the XO3 etc motors. From a personal point of view, I have found that the brush can be dropped from the top of the frame through the gap where the brush is held and this makes it a bit easier to put the brush in properly. I am sure that you have learned that using tweezers or pliers might be the better option to holding the small brass parts in your hand when using the Dremmel! Everything is now health and safety after all. All that said, I'll give my older locos a little more TLC when I service them. Thanks for the information.

[@paulm3965]

First rate repair from an experienced repairer. Very informative.

[@chambs123]

+paul m Thanks very much Paul....appreciated. Cheers, John.

[@haroldphillips8388]

You are more than welcome,I am more of a wrenn man,but your video is bascilly the same,so it did help.Many thanks again Regards Harold

[@chambs123]

No worries Harold....glad to have been of help. I too have a good few Wrenn locos....I'll get round to featuring them one day! Best, John.

[@Skagswood]

Very helpful. My little dock shunter rides again, thanks to your clear instructional video.

[@chambs123]

I couldn't agree more buddy...some of the older motors have lots of balls & pulling power! Shame you got rid of the class 37! All the best, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Matt, glad the video was useful to you. When I first decided to do this vid I couldn't find anything like it on KZbin....hense my reason for doing it! Happy New Year. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello again Copper. Once again I'm glad you found my serving vid herewith useful & that you got the old loco back to life again! I'd bet your son is fascinated with it! All the best, John.

[@arthurgrayson650]

Instablaster...

[@mrcooper1966]

Hi Thanks for your video, I have just finish my first layout and I am very new to model railways. A friend gave me a Triang R308 loco his brother had as a child. it did not run and it was in poor condition. I was going to give up on it until I saw your video. now it runs great and my son loves it.

[@chambs123]

Hi Robert. OK, first, no....these have nothing to do with the motors...they will not burn-out with these items missing. Originally back in the 50's they had nothing. Soon after they started to fit a 500pf [pronounced 'puff''] capacitor [not resistor] to help improve TV interference. They later added the choke to improve things even more. Now we have digital TV don't worry about it. You can get yourself some 500pf caps & put one across the brushes...this does help. Best regards, John.

[@marcelodt]

I intend to buy a Triang EMU for my collection. Your video will help me a lot in maintenance given the advanced age of the model to meet. Regards from Brazil.

[@MrKlf1956]

Thanks John, recently bought a r157 dmu, very poor runner, now I feel ok about repairing the poor old thing. Cheers

[@rocketriffs5316]

Superb John. Have a grey/blue pullman from childhood and only recently had to strip the motor..This has really helped. I would have never thought about the wheels being in the right way for pos & neg.. Thanks for sharing.

[@MrAJH1969]

Thanks John, I've had to put it all away again as my sons wanted their playroom floor back. Anyway you have given me some ideas where to look. Motor has been stripped and rebuilt did 2 others that weekend which work a treat. This one is bugging me hopefully I'll be able to set up again soon and sort it will post update when I have another go. It's a 3 pole type 5 Ringfield not a 5 pole though.

[@frankwhittle4364]

John I have to say a very large thank you for this video as it really dug me out of a hole.

[@gavintempleton7264]

Worked again. Best Dock Shunter video. Thanks!

[@gasman6996]

Best educational video I have seen on KZbin .... Fast fingers, brilliant desciptions. Really want to get a 50 year old DMU from ebay service the motor and chip it ! Thanks so much for a smashing hour .

[@chambs123]

gasman6996 Hey buddy that's a real cool & smashing comment...thank you so very much! I always try my best to please & help others so, great that the video helped you. All the best, John.

[@wdhalgren]

chambs123 Great Stuff John,... Can you please tell me what oil you use or recommend using on these? I'm down to my last bottle of Triang/Shell oil...!! rgds,damien

[@vikingsmb]

+william dhalgren use gaugemaster oil mate, most model shops stock them and it is good :)

[@chambs123]

Hi Damien, I use normal 3-in-1 light machine oil for topping up the oil pen. All the best, John.

[@chambs123]

No worries buddy....glad to have been of help. Cheers, John.

[@maple1232]

Thanks John, very useful and easy to follow, my Triang collection has never been so good!!!

[@chambs123]

Thanks Mike....great comment! Always glad to help if I can? Best, John.

[@allisongreenwood5536]

Thank you very much for a very well detailed rebuild.. It worked perfectly when i got it all back together.

[@chambs123]

Hi again buddy, thanks for more information added to my channel....this kind of thing helps other visitors. I have the equipment to measure magnetic strenght & I have never seen a drop in the readings taken from a given magnet to putting it back in an hour or so later....after a motor service! Cheers, John.

[@haroldphillips8388]

An excellent instruction,and inform package video,it give those with some knowledge to do it them selfs,rather than paying some one else to do it and of course more fun.

[@chambs123]

Thanks Harold....I like making the videos & pleased they are helpful to people. All the best, John.

[@chrismooney1580]

What a great video. Just about to look at servicing my original triangle Blue Pullman and this video will be invaluable. Absolutely brilliantly detailed and described. Love it ! Thank you. Hope I can do as brilliant a job as you. Let’s see.

[@chambs123]

....And yet again more information for my channel....thank you. I agree doing a megohm check between the commutator segments & the shaft is a good idea. Also, as new brushes these days won't go in through the top.....this is why I did them from the bottom....knowing full-well that some people will almost certainly be fitting new brushes after doing a service. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Thanks buddy. OK, changing the wheels is really easy! You need a flat drift that is smaller than the axle shaft. You then have to put the inside of the wheel(s) on a secure surface like the 2 jaws of a vice & simply tap the axle shaft out of the wheel(s). You may need to get some new insulating bushes as the old ones tend to be brittle & sometimes break! I hope this helps for now? I will do a video in time showing this. Kind regards, John.

[@rodjameswales6040]

Best service video ever! Thanks, I learnt a lot

[@johnwhitson57]

Love watching how to videos guess I will never have to servicing a hornby . First time I every seen one not sure they sell them in the USA . Looks a lot more easy to take apart then my O gauge lionel trains. Thanks for making the video a have a great day.

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy thanks for your comments & input. All information added to the channel is always useful and appreciated. The only two points I would comment on is yes....putting the brushes back from the top can be easier but....new brushes are usually too wide to go through from the top....especially if the solder lump on the back is quite big. Also, I don't agree about the magnet keeper, when in the loco they have no kind of 'keeper' for the whole of their lives! Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

@1983now Hi buddy, I haven't tried masking tape...it may be better? I always say in my servicing videos that this is 'my way'.....I'm always open to suggestions! I haven't used Meths but....Meths isn't a pure alcohol & does leave a residue! Thanks for your comments, cheers, John.

[@gavintempleton7264]

Many thanks. Only Comprehensive Dock Authority service video. Even still ten years on.

[@MikesMovies]

A very good guide and I do the earth wire as well. One very important point, the wheel bearings are the most common reason these bogies fail! if lubrication is not kept up wear takes place in the marzac bearings which results in rocking of the wheels, this leads to loss of contact. I have often wondered if a brass shim could be placed in them, but this would take some doing. So I am currently looking at taking the pickup back to the other bogie as well, this assumes of course you have metal wheels in it! Great little motor bogies otherwise. Cheers Mike

[@chambs123]

+MikesMovies Hi Mike & thanks for your input to my channel....appreciated. I do fully understand & take on board what you say however, I must have 50+ locos using this type of powered bogie & I've never once had a problem with the axles wearing down the chassis cuttings in which they run nor ever a problem in picking the ground side of the supply from same! I use a conductive grease here rather than oil...I have had minor problems with oil causing a brief lack of connection. Thanks again for your comment. Best, John.

[@dodgydruid]

I took my 101 DMU into a shop as after watching this I noted I had some serious differences on mine. Firstly it had a completely different pickup arrangement with a wiper pickup bonded into the fibre board on the trackside of the bogie, the brush wires were soldered directly to the brushes and the brushes are so ancient the shop thinks they are the original deal and chap says to me he's never seen a Triang bogie set up like this and thinks this is a very early one having the open axle boxes and open coupling as he showed me a later one with the proper D shaped tensionlocks. So going to cheat by snipping a bit off the old brushes and make little spade connectors from them to slide in like on a X03/4 engine and enable me to change brushes down the line after soldering the pickup wires to the little snips of brass. Only nause on the horizon is one of the under board's two brass screws, one has sheared off so going to try with a very fine drill to try and twist it out as its too small for my eazi-outs, failing that I will just drill it one size over and tap it. The wheels are chunky monkey too, far thicker than my Pullman's and massive flanges I might try and take a bit off with a file.

[@matthewhellowell8322]

thanks john for that vid i have been sericing my own triang moter just no that looks exactly the same to that one it has realy improoved the performence on the old girl thanks again Matthew

[@robgreen3997]

John, thanks I was trying to work out why I had "broken" a working unit by deep cleaning it. I looked at your vid and realised that I had one of the axles the wrong way round and effectively shorted it every time. Cheers now working. Oops

[@JBofBrisbane]

I had to do most of this to replace the wheels and worm gears in my Blue Pullman with items from Ultrascale. Mistakes I made were - 1. trying to reassemble everything with the brushes in place. Found I had to reassemble everything else first, then leave the brushes till last, and 2. refitting the magnet the wrong way round - the motor ran backwards when I tested it. Had to remove magnet, turn it around and refit it without the rest of the assembly falling to bits.

[@robertrammixiomharrison2979]

Thank you so much for this Video, have resurrected an old triang Dock shunter, runs sweet now and the light works also :D

[@alevelezzYouTube]

Excellent videos, I am new to all this but watching your videos really helps a lot. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.

[@nrgcarrington]

I always feed the brushes down from the top, too. If you can't do that, you'll probably find it easier with the tweezers perpendicular to the brush, rather than flat, as you were doing. Easier for them to ping out, so use wide tweezers, but much easier to manipulate.

[@chambs123]

Hi Nick.....thanks for your input/feedback. As I have said before...my way may not be the recommended way or indeed suit everybody else. I do have various typres of tweezers & do indeed use them & fit the brushes in different ways acordingly. Could I please refer you to a reply I did to Andy Reid.....copy below. Kind regards, John. Ha-ha-ha.....I already knew about fitting the brushes from the top but....replacement brushes that you get nowadays have a bit more carbon on them & they will not fit through the top!! Also....I have had to clip the top two corners on them too as they don't always fit the width of the brush retaining fibre plate! Nice touch on the magnet improvements but I myself have plenty of spare magnets....along with the new neo type & a re-magnetizer, so no real big deal for me on that. All the best Andy, John.

[@WhitehouseFilms]

I have a Triang DMU which broke down in 2010 and was un-mendable for sometime till I came across this video. After watching it a few times and following your steps, the motor roared back into life and is still going strong all thanks to this video. Thanks very much John for making this video guide. BTW what number is the capacitor as I think mine might need replacing at a later stage.

[@chambs123]

Thank you for the fantastic testimonial Dave....very much appreciated. Best regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Thanks Matt....glad the video was a help to you. Seasons greetings, cheers, John.

[@robbiesmodeltrainsinoo6459]

Hi John,Thank you for the information.

[@chambs123]

Thanks for the kind comment my friend & glad you found the vid to be of help. As regards the orientation of the magnet.....if you get it wrong the loco will go backwards on the same position of the controller to all your other locos....just simply turn the magnet around to correct this. You can also do this with a compass but you would have had to know which was north [or south] in the first place. Hope this helps? Kind regards, John.

[@matthewpeter]

thats excellent, the motors probably now as good as it was when made!

[@chambs123]

@48firefox Hi there & thanks for your comments. I don't have any of the old Hornby Dublo stuff but I do intend to do a video on the later Hornby Ringfield motor in the not too distant future. Kind regards, John.

[@alsatau]

Very good video, I've been looking for this information for a long time, very usefull, very informative, I was getting excited when you retested the armature segments and they read the same, well done now I've a few oldies that need the treatment that I feel confident in doing now., Thanks again

[@christopherbeadling7013]

Great video, thanks John!

[@chambs123]

Hi Graeme.....big thanks for your comment & question. Most motors are really the same more or less....servicing them is also virtually the same/common sense etc. I do intend to do servicing videos on the Ringfield motor & Bachmann motors too when I get the time? All the best, John.

[@TATICMOOR]

Another great motor clean up vid and interesting coil test with fix up tip. With all this cleaning John, you must be a very good House Wife - LOL.

[@chambs123]

Nice one John. In-fact, I hate house cleaning....I have a cleaner every two weeks!! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy, thanks for your comment and yes....I think I could do a good video on how to solder so.....as they say: Watch this space! Cheers, John.

[@Sopwith16]

Great video John. really helped me fix my old hornby DMU.

[@chambs123]

Thanks for the great comment John & glad to have been of help. Please let me know how it all goes when you've put her back together? Regards, John.

[@HORNEBEEDUBLO]

Hi, the armature acts as a sort of keeper even though there is a small airgap between the pole pieces and the armature. Scalespeed who have over 40 years experience in rewinding and servicing these motors state on their website: 'A remag is absolutely essential after removing any magnet. Measurements have shown that 70% of magnetism is lost immediately a magnet is disturbed let alone removed.' I hope that this helps.

[@robmasterman]

Thank you John, keep up the great work....Bob

[@funkateer831]

Hello John,I love your videos..very informative..Ive just picked up a Triang Blue Pullman set today...non runner..pick up spring to blame...Thank god for ebay..keep up the good work..Regards nick

[@Poliss95]

Love the servicing videos even though I'm an N scaler. Can't wait to see the soldering one.

[@umeshsukode1339]

Very good information sir. I like this model bogey.

[@chambs123]

OK buddy all is understood. I will eventually get around to doing a full servicing video on the Ringfield motor though to be fair its not that much different to any other 3-pole motor! Good luck with all the servicing. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello buddy, sounds to me that you did a perfect job....top-man! glad the video was a help to you. Kind regards, John.

[@raybarker9201]

Hi John enjoy your videos,, just a something you may be interested in for cleaning electrical components ,i use Methylated Spirits,, its a very good cleaning agent and no harm to plastic parts ,, i have been using Methylated Spirits to clean ,vinyl,Lcd, screens ,phones,remote controls,infact it is the safest way to clean all electronic parts ,, plus its very cheep ,,best regards Ray

[@chambs123]

OK buddy understood. You can get the replacement springs for her off ebay. Hope that helps? Best, John.

[@chambs123]

OK buddy no problem! First not all boogies had the capacitor so don't worry about this....that's not your problem. Next, it's easy to get the magnet correct by running the boogie & if it goes the opposite way to all your others...simply turn the magnet around however....as she's not now running you can't do the magnet thing yet. I can help you here but it will be much easier over the phone. I'll PM you my contact details. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello again buddy....thanks for the comment. It pleases me that I have been able to help so many people with my "how-to" videos whereas without them a fairly simple job would be daunting! Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello Bob & thank you kindly for your comment & question. First..glad the video was of help..this is exactly why I did it..I wanted to help other people do this even if they didn't have any experience in this sort of thing! Second....you cannot buy Evo-Stick remover over the internet because of its flammable qualities. All hardware stores sell it but you may have to ask as its not always displayed on the shelves! You can try the stuff you have but it has not got to leave residue! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Thank you Jan... I am pleased the video helped you and thanks for the comment. All the best, John.

[@christopherbeadling7013]

Hi John! Got it to work!

[@phils6926]

Thanks very much. Just bought on of these for old times sake. My mate had one a very long time ago and I was dead jealous. A couple of tips. You can get high temperature Kevlar tape designed specially for solder masking. Doesn't apply here, but the cheepo Chinese motors often have aluminium winding wire instead of copper enameled wire. Impossible to solder and they use crimped connections. I never rely on the flux in multicore solders and with wire for tinning, I always add a separate flux. One like ChipQuik works well. Can't wait to get that armature out and check the windings. Any idea what that component is in the yellow sleeve? Mine measures nearly zero ohms. Thanks again.

[@nesr8786]

Well done John as normal great informative video,i dont have any of these types of motor ,but if i get one thanks for the detailed stripdown maintain. keep it up

[@chambs123]

Thank you for your comment. The Hymek used two kinds of motors. The early version used a bogie/motor similar to the DMU/EMU's but the later Hornby one used the Ringfield motor. It is my intention to do videos on both these different motors in due course. Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy, sorry for the long delay. OK, yes it does apply to the 101 bogie! it is the same but a little smaller casting & smaller wheels. Just follow the same procedure. Cheers, John.

[@bladerunnersn]

very good john as i need to service mine for that blue Pullman i bought off ebay I told you about as it needs a new pickup spring .

[@chambs123]

Hi Alex, thanks for your comment, glad it helped you sort your DMU. Did you do any soldering or just a full service? Cheers, John.

[@tobyjo57]

Super Edcational Video This Guy is Brilliant

[@chambs123]

No worries on that buddy....I'm sure I can find it....I'll go take a look now. Cheers, John.

[@seye100]

Very helpful video as always, I have a couple of locos with this type of motor. I'm also finding to run these older motors you need a controller with a good bit of ooomf don't run well on a standard hornby controller not enough power.

[@chambs123]

Hi Simon & thanks for your comment. I will say though that one of these bogies in good condition, working order & well serviced runs fine on a modern controller! It should be pulling about 400 mA & most new ones can supply this. If you are having the problems you state, it may be that you have shorted turns on your armature coils....this demands a lot more current! All the best, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello matey. OK, the 5 pole Ringfield motor is just like any other motor (I will do a video on these when I can get around to doing so?) In the meantime I have seen this before with various motors whereby it runs better one way than the other. This is usually a two-fold thing. Either brush spring pressure or gear cogs wear/mis-alinement. Strip the whole thing, give her a good clean/service & then get back to me if you still have problems? You shouldn't have to 'push-start' a loco. Regards, John.

[@ODS31]

Many thanks John. Will get to it once my Chemo settles down. But thanks.

[@minoandshadow.mmd.furry.cuties]

thats been really helpful, thank you. i recently got a hornby dmu as a non runner, watching this while working on it has made it a great runner now.

[@TonyBullUK]

Brilliant! Exactly what I was looking for as I am servicing the motor from a Triang Transcontinental diesel which uses this type. Probably the first of a few! Question though regarding the magnet! Schoolboy error! I marked the magnet as per your recommendation, but after cleaning, realised I'd rubbed the pen off...d'oh! How can I tell which way the magnet should be oriented please?

[@chambs123]

Ok bud....I'll go check-it-out right now! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy & yes...you can change the wheels so they run over Peco points [though the Hornby points are slightly better]. Also, I am not allowed to put a link here but Google 'Scalespeed'...they have all the replacement wheels. Hope this helps you? Kind regards, John.