How-to Repair, Upgrade & Mod The Spider Assembly For R351/R352/R357/R751/R758 Locos. Hornby Triang.

Hornby Triang: Featuring tips & fixes my way, on how to repair, upgrade & mod the spider assembly used in locomotives R352 Budd RDC-2 co-co railcar, R758 class 35 co-co Hymek, R357 A1A-A1A class 31 co-co, R751 class 37 co-co & R351 class EM2 co-co electric loco + all variants. Hope you find it useful & helpful. All the best, John.
Link to the original full bogie service is below:
• How-To Service The Pow...

[@lfewell2161]

Every loco I had with this type of bogie had this problem, I removed the collector strip, bent every bend 180 degrees so that each strip was a mirror image of the other, the lug is there but originally it did nothing, as both strips were the same, worked perfectly. That was almost 50 years ago, but watching your video made it seem like yesterday.

[@johnbill9201]

Thanks for sharing these videos, I'm learning such a lot how to sort out my own loco's out and repair, J

[@mikebeeton4982]

Hi, yet again your straightforward way of overcoming these problems are model engineering at it's basic level, how to repair/overcome the problem. I to have experienced this problem and" gloved" a piece of brass around the "burnt" aperture, but didn't think of soldering to the spider, so yet again you inspire "fixes"

[@shedhead00]

My hymek lives because off your video plastic was broken under one off spider legs watched your video fixed motor then watched again running great thanks

[@billconroy7132]

John Thanks for the video, that should help me sort out a couple of those bogies that I have in a none working condition after a lengthy storage period (30yrs). I have compiled a folder of your videos and others to assist me. Living in Australia, all I can say is thank god for youtube and the internet.

[@Nialld57]

Thanks for a good video. My type 31 has a new lease of life .

[@paull2613]

Thank you concise "Blow By Blow or what to do not to do. Thank you very helpful

[@michaeldodd7640]

Thanks a lot I have restored many triangs back from the dead. Keep the how to videos coming

[@willyoung4090]

Strip old co ax cable and the outer copper streched will make the webbing

[@redken53]

I am glad I found this Video as it covers the exact problems I have with my motors. Cheers John.

[@mikehebdentrains]

Just found this, having worked out the exact same issue with magnadhesion about 2 weeks ago (after 40 years of being puzzled!) So thank you for confirming it! (Mine had opposing wheels touching the 2 magnets so a dead short through the frame :( The only other thing I'd add is that the EM2 relies upon the brush being fed via the spring, as the knurled nut engages with a sliding brass clip to select track to overhead. Simple though - apply your fix, then insulate the new copper plate and feed the brush from the spring as normal. Cheers. mike

[@atari67]

I love your videos, John, especially your instructional videos. You have a down-to-earth knack for it, that I find really appealing. This is not a joke - I learned to solder from your soldering tutorial. Keep up the good work, sir!

[@philipe9696]

John just a warning whilst soldering and superglue. If heated too hot - above 330 degrees Fahrenheit - it will decompose into cyanide gas (lethal, nasty stuff)

[@aplinewalker]

Very difficult How To video ,,, but very well explained and presented ,,, outstanding work,,,

[@charlie1872]

Hi John, good to see you back doing these.Regards

[@robertmiller4741]

hi watched your video , having a couple of old trains from my childhood decided to see if they would run, replaced brushes and cleaned them, still nothing then i noticed the bits you call spiders not making contact so i have now cut a fish plate in half pushed onto each spider and soldered in place ie extending the copper and it works a treat , excellent video

[@edoc2]

Hi John really good fix that one must check my locos now. I have watched all of your how to videos and found them very interesting and have serviced my locos properly ever since. Once again great video, keep them coming thanks Dave

[@johnholden8872]

Another good vid John I'm learning some stuff today. Watched both vids on servicing this kind of motor and I'm now off to eBay and hopefully get the bits needed. Many thanks

[@SamsTrains]

A very good idea John, I might try this if I have any problems! I guess we should be thankful that tri-ang didn't make many silly design mistakes like this! Cheers, Sam

[@chambs123]

+Sam'sTrains Thanks for the comment Sam....glad you enjoyed the video. I don't know if you have any locos in your collection that uses this bogie or maybe I haven't seen any in your videos? All the best, John.

[@TATICMOOR]

Sam I have watched some of your videos too, and heard you mention John "Champs" on the maintenance vid of the loco John had loaned/gave (#lol)you. I have now subbed to your tubing too.

[@layout1237]

another good video john its always good to learn something new.

[@robbpenoyer9357]

That motor is what Tyco and other railroad models came equipped with in the 70's and 80,s here in the states. Or across the pond as you say.

[@mikebeeton4982]

thank you, straight forward repair work, well explained and shown. superb

[@TheDaf95xf]

Simply marvellous 👍🏻

[@TheF0nz1]

You are very helpful John thank you.

[@elwoodlpool]

Hi I've cleaned everything on this motor but there's two little pieces I think are the brushes but I don't know how they go back in.

[@rosshenry6688]

It is an interesting design that assembly. Great video.

[@thorntonmclaughlan7678]

Hi John Thornton here, I v'e serviced a spider assemble motor o suit a co-co bogie also fitted a new armature assembly however it runs fine in one direction not so good in the opposite direction also a bit noisy any ideas as to why this is happening.

[@kenbroderick4996]

Brilliant video John. I have just serviced a non running spider motor from a class 37 coco. It now works Hoorah! It runs smooth on the work bench, however once its on the track its really noisy with a grinding sound plus its pretty slow. Any suggestions?

[@gerrygorman273]

Hi John Which brush side has the insulator part on it. And is that the same side for the insulator on the spring? Thanks Gerry

[@patjschmidt]

For your autofocus problem, you need to put your hand behind the item you are trying to have the camera focus on if/when you lift it away from the table and closer to the camera. Autofocus in all cameras tend to look for a common plane to use as the preferred focus distance. You can have it adjust faster by putting something flat and medium in size behind something thin and small that the camera will have trouble 'seeing' on its own when near the camera.(Check Graham Foulston videos, he does the hand trick a lot to get the camera to focus faster when he moves things up closer to the camera)

[@burtonfootballer5408]

Hi John. Have just done all this on a hornby 758 diesel. Only problem now is that I have a bad connection on one wheel on the none powered bogey. It looks like the bogey and chassis are connected together with an eyelet rivet. Is it possible to access the wiring on the none powered bogey? Andy

[@lisalewis9237]

Hi John, Would it not be easier to flip the copper piece around and re-bend all the pieces in the right locations? The very piece you make is present at the end of that copper piece on the spider. Lisa

[@barrywest8944]

Hi John, if the magnets touch the wheel does it create a screeching noise?

[@callumhardy5098]

You wouldn't mind doing a video on how to install electric junction points thank you.

[@georgeschannel439]

is it possible convert this to dcc

[@frankwhittle4364]

John having followed your videos for many months I was wondering if you knew (daft question) how to put a DCC chip on a spider assembly, any assistance would be most welcome. Thanks Frank

[@graymodeler]

Frank Whittle Frank, just isolate both sides of the spring with a piece of insulation stripped from a copper wire. Then use a moto tool to grind away the copper tab on the spider where it contacts the brush arm. Orange and grey solder to top of brush arms. Pickup wires red and black go to the spiders right and left. Of course tie the rear bogie pickups to the red and black from the front. Just make sure that the brushes are isolated from the wheels, frame, etc. with an ohm meter.

[@ianhudson2193]

With the brushes getting hot enough to do that, it's probable it needs remagnetising....

[@danielanderson5364]

Does this motor work on flex track?

[@chambs123]

Yes of course Daniel. Regards, John.

[@danielanderson5364]

@@chambs123 thank mate I have got class 31 I am fixing your video will really help

[@DENPTrains]

im early quick think of a joke my life

[@DENPTrains]

jk

[@jamestorrance6153]

greatvideoijustbought31wityourhelpgotitgoingcheersjim au