How To (Or How NOT To) Fit and Install a Fender Style Neck

[@ajmaxx1793]

After the first hole is drilled, it might help to put in the screw for that hole & so on so that they support the clamp action.

[@NathanSink]

Good point!

[@eddiejr540]

Nathan...for what it’s worth... I install threaded inserts on all my bolt-on necks... I swear it makes a difference...the guitars vibrate more, they are louder and have more resonance...the inserts really pull the neck down into the pocket making the best contact...and you can take the neck on and off as much as you need and it still goes back perfectly...been watching these vids and I go thru the same problems...rock on my brother!!!!

[@NathanSink]

Thanks for sharing! I may try that one day. 👍🏻

[@tituschalk]

Hi Eddie, I’ve heard about this before but quick question: do the inserts live in the neck base only, or also in the holes you drill in the neck pocket?

[@eddiejr540]

@@tituschalk …the inserts go into the neck…you drill a wider hole and screw them in…they’re permanent …then bolt up as usual 👍

[@eddiejr540]

@@tituschalk ….search guitar neck threaded inserts and you’ll find them👍

[@johns7483]

Hey Nathan, I like how you open yourself to criticism, because that's what a lot of viewers like to do, criticize. I have been into guitars and doing my own repairs since Moby Dick was a minnow (I'm 70). But all nonsense aside, and believe it or not, I still learn little things when I watch videos like this one, so thank you for your effort to make the videos and share, good or bad, your experiences and learning curve. you must stumble a lot for the size of them. It gets better as you go if you don't give up. I'm still sanding, cutting, drilling and sweating over the elusive craftsman touch for the "this is it" guitar, and still I am no better than anyone else. I probably have only 50 more years to go before I meet the best Luthier that ever was, but that is for later. Good luck with the channel and never give up, My grand kids need people like you to use as a reference for their instruments when I'm gone home. Carry on.

[@NathanSink]

Thank you so much for the kind words, John. ❤️ It means a lot, especially from someone of your experience! I hope your luthier work keeps your mind sharp & your heart young!

[@RichardPFranklin]

I've just drilled the holes in my new strat neck, and it's worked just the way it should have. I did use a C-clamp. You just have to carefully rest it on the shorter 'horn' of the guitar so that it couldn't move or slide off. Then I clamped the neck tight enough to hold it in place. Here's the trick I used to make sure the neck doesn't move on me: I took a piece of low-tack tape and drew two lines on it. Then I struck it at the joint, where the neck butt meets the body, so that one part of the tape was on the neck and the other one was on the body. Then I carefully traced it with a knife right at the joint. I ended up with two lines as visual cues and could immediately spot any changes in their alignment. I also clamped the body in a vice, so that I didn't have to worry about holding the guitar and had one less thing to control while drilling.

[@NathanSink]

Sounds like you nailed it! …..or drilled it!🤔 Either way, great job & thanks for sharing your tips. 👍🏻

[@RichardPFranklin]

@@NathanSink Thanks. Your videos helped a lot. Knowing what not to do may be more important than watching a dozen perfect videos where pro luthiers use all the right tools. I'm just a hobbyist, so I had no tools but a clamp and a hand drill. I just tried to eliminate as many variables as I could. Btw, I've used two layers of heat-shrink tubes instead of tape to keep the drill bit steady in the hole. It did work, so I guess it's also an option. The only thing I couldn't anticipate was that the holes in the body had not been drilled perfectly straight, so when I tightened the neck, it did go out of alignment half a mil toward the bass side. Now I've got 4 mil on the bass side and 3 mil on the treble side from the edge of the last fret to the string. I have no idea how to check if your pilot holes are straight, but it's something to keep in mind.

[@globalnova]

you now have a 25.6" scale tele! for the string alignment i have put a little shim (paper, business card piece or whatever )in the side of the pocket to shove the neck sideways where i want it and has worked..

[@NathanSink]

Never thought about the effect on scale length. Interesting! And that seems to be a valid approach with the business card, especially with them being used by Fender for shims. 👍🏻

[@JoeKyser]

This looks like an exact replay of the neck I just installed. I'm doing my first complete build and it's a headache for sure. Live and learn lol

[@NathanSink]

Oh man. Sorry about that. 😬 I feel your pain

[@JoeKyser]

@@NathanSink I think I'm making out okay now. The shim helped so much it's not funny. Just that little bit. I realized the nut I had wasn't wide enough either. The dam strings didn't line up with the pickups. It's looking good though. I might give this one away. I don't have a following on youtube for guitar stuff but heck I video tape everything and might post it. I love to share. We will see how it goes.

[@FrontRowRock]

Wow... Great video again. By showing your mistakes/challenges you save many from the same issues. I tip my hat to you again! I can hardly wait to find out how you fix the string spacing issue.

[@NathanSink]

Front Row Rock thanks! 😊

[@NathanSink]

Front Row Rock thanks! 😊

[@Mikem-mq2hh]

I loooooove the imperfections, corrections and mistakes. Its how it plays in the end....Thanks .... p.s. Leo and Les started the same way....

[@DougHinVA]

A drill press with the correct diameter routing bit can make the corners as needed with better control....

[@thehackmusician]

Excellent, easy to follow. Great work mate. I'm about to switch my tele neck

[@NathanSink]

Thank you! Just be careful what kind of clamp you use. Obviously I used the wrong one. Here is the follow-up video on how I fixed it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZDHlqmsrquNgqcsi=EnmjdjUwuxAZrVre

[@montanaokie]

Here are some things I had to question while I was watching the video. First of all, I'm an old guy. I owned Fender guitars in the '60s and '70s. My first question was how tight the neck pocket fit has to be. I keep thinking back to those old guitars (especially basses) and how we used to throw them into their cases and travel to a gig only to find that the high E string was all the way over to the edge of the fretboard. We just used to grab the guitar and give the neck a good yank in the right direction until the strings were back into alignment. Sometimes it would hold fine for a long time - it depended on how many knocks the guitar took. If it was a constant problem, we got a screwdriver and retightened the screws. (duh) I remember some guitars allowing an eighth of an inch or more lateral movement at the nut. In other words, nobody that I knew was very concerned about how tight or loose the neck pocket fit was. This was more of a concern in the '70s when Fender went to the three screw design. So, how did we fix it? We put a piece of sandpaper between the neck and body joint and tightened the screws. My point is that when you are mixing up parts like people do, the tightness of the neck pocket fit is not critical. What is critical is having enough movement at the joint so you can properly align the strings to the edges of the fretboard. We also used to use a couple thicknesses of business cards to adjust neck tilt. No big deal. I could never hear any tonal differences from having sandpaper or paper shims in the neck joint. That is the beauty of the simple design of these guitars. People overthink stuff. I would never buy a partscaster because I know that if I took it apart I would find all kinds of hacks like where you butchered your new neck. I think I would have drilled the holes in the body a little bit larger so you have room to adjust neck alignment. The screws should not be threaded into the body. This is definitely a How NOT to do it video. You built a "homemade" guitar, not a "handmade" or "custom" guitar. I would call it a Partscluster.

[@NathanSink]

Just coming around to this comment, but since it seems to have to most likes I thought I would address it. First, here is the follow-up video to this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZDHlqmsrquNgqcsi=EnmjdjUwuxAZrVre Yes, neck pocket tightness is highly subjective & often debated. I guess I fall somewhere in the middle. I don’t think it needs to be overly tight but I definitely don’t think there should be a lot of play. Yes, I screwed up on drilling this neck. It was a learning experience (although I had actually already successfully done it with a previous neck). It’s also here on KZbin for everyone to see & hopefully not repeat my mistakes. And of course I did re-drill the neck & correct the issue (again see link above). Yes, this is a partscaster. I have a lot of respect for builders who carve their own necks & bodies, & I’m definitely not at that level. Thanks for watching & commenting.

[@steelyerface21]

the screws are 100 percent threaded into the body as well on all new fenders unless people enlarge them to just have a lag clamping force. New fenders will not have the screw just push through the body

[@murpsman]

I'd like to see video on how you installed that neck pickup.

[@NathanSink]

Unfortunately I don’t have a video showing that. The closest thing I have (with this guitar) is a video comparing the old pickups (Tex Mex) bs the new ones (Keystones): kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYrGo4yLZ7F2n6csi=SlzwvIlUhowBW0i8 I also have a video showing me replacing the pickups in a Thinline style Tele with Lambertone “Blondie” pickups: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpOtq36crMmleJYsi=0ap9xwYU4sG0sxaO

[@pyrimid]

Subscribed. Have a allparts neck on a gorgeous tele nitro guitar mill relic and the neck has a large hump in it now with the nut totally off! I’m trying to find vids on how to use a jig to introduce a back bow and then the rod should work again. Anyway, stumbled on this and I love the guitar. I actually have the pre road worn which was the Nitro series they made that weren’t worn but all nitro and for a fiesta red jag which it is with American electronics fir under 1k it was a steal! Hard cases included. They quickly switched to these and I agree, the poly is a no go for me on a vintage style guitar. I relicd my jag myself but it’s nitro so it was super easy to get that cracked look with heat and cold and then slowly age it and the metal with acid. I even aged my guard by putting it in bucket and blowing cigarette smoke in while it was sealed for two days. Looks like 20 years old now. Anyway…. Dig the vids. Now back to my hump neck problem 🙄

[@NathanSink]

Thanks! Hope you get your hump worked out! 😬

[@sunnys3325]

Man these vid makes me wanna go piece together ANOTHER guitar... thank u for all the info u put out there

[@NathanSink]

Triple S glad to help! 😊

[@jackalopestudios4222]

Might be completely wrong here but I've been an automotive painter for the last 18 years and believe the reason "nitro" (lacquer paint) was used on vintage guitars is because for the time period, that was the best and most durable. Urethane paint came around much later having better productivity, UV protection, and build. More importantly much safer to spray! Nitro may have gotten its name from the amount of paint booths that exploded due to light bulbs! From a painters stand point, Urethane is far superior just for durability alone. Lacquer WILL break down much faster. I love staying true to the time period though so it truly is personal preference in today's time period. Hope this helps great video 👍

[@NathanSink]

Thanks for the info! Nice perspective. I agree with you: polyurethane is more durable & tougher, but it all comes down to taste. 👍🏻

[@johnhorning2506]

I’m curious why you chose to take material off the body instead of taking material from the neck heel? The way you did it seems to have worked fine, just picking your brain. I’m starting a new Tele partscaster build as well and appreciated this video.

[@mattier3030]

Same here, seems like it would be so much easier to take the neck down. Also why not try and take some of the finish off that heel of the neck? I'm also about to finally assemble after weeks of research and your videos have been the best!

[@K1llerTunes]

I’m guessing it’s because you don’t need to measure and mark out the area, because the neck heel is already milled out.

[@anotherheadlessdemo]

I had the opposite problem! I bought a recently made replacement RW neck for my 2009 RW Tele. It was not a tight fit at all. I could slide a piece of paper or thin cardboard in between the neck and body. Very annoying. Why couldn't Fender make a replacement neck that actually fits?

[@NathanSink]

@@anotherheadlessdemo yeah, the beauty of Fender’s “bolt on” neck design is that changing the neck is really easy. The downside is getting the fit just right. Hope you get it sorted out.

[@tombeck2792]

Lacquer is for non-hard use areas-- also borrow friends drill press next time. You can use paraffin or bees wax on the screw threads for easy driving.

[@NathanSink]

Yep, it will definitely wear faster than polyurethane.

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

I use a plunge router 1/8 collit for a cnc router and long Spiral bit

[@davidparkes7977]

Bro check your nut slots buy a bone blank and reslot it position the high and low string on the nut and go from there even when you had the neck were you wanted it the e strings look to close to me to the edge i could be wrong but i had a similar problem

[@NathanSink]

Thanks for the tip.

[@35emulsion]

to adjust your neck truss rod, you gotta remove the whole pick guard?😳😳😨

[@NathanSink]

Yeah, 5 screws once or twice a year when it’s necessary. I agree it’s a bit of a pain, but no more than virtually every vintage or new-vintage-spec’d guitar where you have to loosen or remove the neck to adjust the truss rod.

[@woodsdavide]

If there a no pre-drilled holes for the bridge OR the neck (on Muslady tele kit you drill every hole except tuner pegs), which do I measure and drill first to assure the neck, bridge and strings are centered? The bridge? If so, do I estimate the center line based on a neck/pocket that has enough play to pivot just a little bit? Do I install the neck first to run a line from the nut down the center, but not being 100% sure the bridge will be square with everything else? Do I temporarily clamp the neck to the body, then square the bridge and mark all of the bridge and neck holes?

[@NathanSink]

Those are very good questions. I'm not sure I can be of much help, since I've actually never drilled bridge holes before. I know alot of kits come with instructions, some you could probably even look up online without buying the kit. I think BYOGUitar? Let us know what you find out. 😊

[@davidwoods8033]

@@NathanSink Thanks for the reply. I'll let you know what I find out.

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

Drill and install the neck 1/8 in the neck 3/16 in the body,line the edge of the neck with the edge of the body, drill and install neck, take bridge with string on both e strings line it up so the strings are equal on the neck mark bridge and drill use blue tape on the body to mark holes

[@jamesadams1064]

How wide is the route for the truss rod adjustment?

[@NathanSink]

Next time I take the pickguard off I’ll try to measure.

[@NathanSink]

Looking at a couple of diagrams online, it looks like it’s 0.62”.

[@hamforthecatify]

Part 2 please!

[@NathanSink]

Pachinko Puppet soon! (probably tomorrow) 😊

[@rudymaster2162]

How far down the guitar should the neck fit?

[@NathanSink]

rudy master the butt end of the neck should fit right up against the neck pocket (body)

[@dennisn.9583]

What finish is on the Guitar neck / fretboard? Oil Finish or gloss spray?

[@NathanSink]

I finished the neck in nitro from a can, and then the “worn” part on the back of the neck was finished in Tried & True Oil. Here’s the video about it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYbPaGN8qruGp68

[@DonSol0]

I’m pretty sure the neck is nitro on the road worn Vintera series.

[@NathanSink]

Oh nice. Is that the latest version? I think there’s been about three. 🤔

[@calebcarney1933]

What’s that quarter sized hole in the pocket for?

[@NathanSink]

I’m guessing it’s for a micro tilt system. Maybe they made a bunch of necks like this & in some models they put the micro tilt in and in others they didn’t.

[@eduardsiger1860]

I’ve heard to never sand the body pocket for a fit but sand the neck instead

[@NathanSink]

I guess it depends on what’s most “valuable” to you; the neck or guitar. I’ve sanded a Chinese neck that I put on a Squier body because I would have rather screwed up the cheap neck. However, I mainly got this method from Fender. See about 1:33 in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqrYYaivobFsoMU

[@rocanrola]

Nope, mistake, all opposite: never sand the neck. Sanding the neck pocket is a common practice.

[@yrulooknatme]

what paint is that I like it

[@NathanSink]

The body paint? It’s the stock paint that came from the Fender Mexico factory. The body is a Fender Road Worn.

[@yrulooknatme]

@@NathanSink ahhI see , nice

[@grahamkelly8299]

What size drill bit did you use?

[@NathanSink]

See @16:28 - either a 1/8" or 9/64".

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

Fender recommens 1/8 drill neck 3/16 body holes for#8 screws, also recommended by stewart mcdonalds with their neck screws

[@NathanSink]

Thanks for the info!

[@Nachtx1]

I had exactly the same problem, lmao

[@DeplorablePepe]

Most dreaded time of a partscaster build is drilling for the bridge.

[@NathanSink]

I’ve never been that brave. 😬

[@slicksnewonenow]

Nathan- I believe that a $40 Harbor Freight TRIM ROUTER would do you pretty good. They're just a bit bigger than a large Dremel, and have a decent, clear plastic base. You could use Dremel bits in one... Easy to open those neck pockets a bit!

[@NathanSink]

Love Harbor Freight! Man, that’s a great price. Thanks for the tip. I just don’t know if I’d trust myself with a power tool around a neck pocket. 🤔

[@wyattsdad8561]

You had this problem because you only used one string to Align it

[@NathanSink]

Around the @12:10 mark there are clearly two strings. 🤔

[@mickeytylerofficial]

This video would be much better without the 5 min intro lol

[@NathanSink]

Did you know you can easily skip any part using the red play-head at the bottom of the video? I even provided this statement in the video description: "To skip the talking, go to @4:09​".

[@mickeytylerofficial]

@@NathanSink that is exactly what I did ... and it was annoying lol Just my two cents mate , with shrinking attention spans getting smaller you probably lost quite a bit of view time from those who just want the tutorial information without a back story . Its actually pretty rare for people to read descriptions , so I wouldn't rely on it too much .

[@mickeytylerofficial]

@@NathanSink also , a condescending attitude toward critique does not look good on a creator . ;) I was going to hit subscribe because the video did help with my current build .... until I read this reply lol Cheers mate :)

[@NathanSink]

@@mickeytylerofficial thanks for stopping by. All the best with your build.

[@johns7483]

@@mickeytylerofficial I thought the same thing Mickey, but I suffered the intro so I wouldn't miss anything that may have made a difference. The initial click matters, and the time and effort invested in a video is substancial. The time spent watching is the easy part. Nathan put in the effort to have people like us benefit from his experiences, he had the courage to be wide open to comments after his ordeal. Out of respect I clicked on the thumbs up button to show support for that effort. Shrinking attention spans are a pain aren't they? Just my two dimes worth, inflation sucks.

[@jefffassett8871]

Why have videos like this unless you know what you're doing? Seems pointless to me

[@NathanSink]

Some people actually like to see what can happen if you don’t do it the right way…and how you can fix it if you make a mistake. 🙂

[@derekclacton]

@@NathanSinkI’m one of those people 😉

[@AllSpace]

painfull man, sand the heal be alot easier, check intonation

[@AllSpace]

p.s, dont drill neck holes until bridge lines up strings, otherwise problem i had

[@NathanSink]

Lessons learned...the hard way. 😊

[@cameronwilliams4738]

5 minutes of useless intro. Totally utterly useless !

[@NathanSink]

Cameron Williams www.quora.com/How-can-I-fast-forward-a-video-in-KZbin

[@cameronwilliams4738]

@@NathanSink Do you think that is honestly a good response from the creator of the video ? "I put a useless intro of 5 minutes long so my viewers have to fast forward, when I could have just edited it better in my video software.". The information you put in it was geniuely helpful but if you want to build a solid subscriber base you HAVE to trim the fat .. just get straight to the point. We know what the video is, we read the title. Check every youtuber, they get straight to the point.

[@NathanSink]

Cameron Williams I appreciate the input, my friend. I have a few subscribers already. 😉 Always looking to improve though.

[@nickjanczak9665]

My thoughts exactly! If you don't care for the preamble or the chatter, just fast-forward to the bits you do want to see, it's not a huge problem and it's hardly worth getting your panties in a twist to the point where you start bad-mouthing people. But then again KZbin is also the place for self-proclaimed pseudo-polymaths-commentators to lecture others on how to do everything better according to them and attack them in the comments box. I thought your video was useful as I'm very much going through the same process myself on a strat project I'm doing at the moment and I am soaking up loads of good and practical advice about how to make the neck sit better in its pocket. Keep up the good work.@@NathanSink

[@NathanSink]

Nick Janczak thanks for the kind words.