HOW TO… PART 3 ‘VULCANISED RUBBER MOULDS’

[@vasili1207]

Cool it's great you make show the manufacturing steps, make me want to give it a crack. I wonder if I could make a centrifuge out of a old washing machine 🤔 Tooling looks expensive 😜

[@StaplesandVine]

Hi Vasili, great comment. Episode #4 will show casting using these moulds on the centrifugal casting machine. It is a fairly simple process but pretty dangerous as you have molten pewter at 280 degrees C spinning at about 300 rpm. If the mould doesn't stay together you will have a very bad day. Having said that a washing machine would make a good starting point. I'll explain the principles in episode #4. All the best , Sera.

[@wermakers]

@@StaplesandVine how long its need to vulcanize. If i put heat resistant 3d printed parts

[@StaplesandVine]

@@wermakers it takes roughly 1 hour per inch thickness of mould. I usually give the moulds another 20 minutes to be sure but it always best to refer to your rubber supplier for curing times and pressures. Hope that helps 🙂

[@wermakers]

@@StaplesandVine Thanks dear.i try 160 Celica's for total 1 hour but one thing happen silicon has bubble emboss & too hard & maybe space gap .cause after palce upper aluminium spacer it has spacer thats why mold don,t look like flat it has many bubble type emboss & mold not properly done .what should i need to do.also resin goods damage .

[@StaplesandVine]

@@wermakers I mould metal masters in black rubber at 150C . 3D prints in special low temperature silicone at 90C. Moulding 3D prints is very difficult . Whenever possible I make metal masters to then make rubber moulds which always give better results when casting.

[@adamgrace3369]

You deserve more views! Thank you for your efforts.

[@StaplesandVine]

Thanks for your encouragement Adam. Fortunately I'm very patient.

[@SoDidUNo]

Honestly I'm blown away. Just wonderful

[@StaplesandVine]

Thanks you it's a great process. I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel. 🙂

[@NorasHobbyverse]

It's so interesting finally finding this info. i saw a video back like... 9 years ago showing the casting process (just the cool metal pouring bit) and always wanted to figure out the whole process, and I now, finally, know! I hope to one day get the equipment set up to do this.

[@StaplesandVine]

Glad I could fill in the gaps Nora. The kit for this is rather pricey but there may be alternatives out there. 🙂

[@NorasHobbyverse]

@@StaplesandVine Oh It's definitely a pipe dream for now, but if life upswings and I can finally get a maker's space going, this kit will be in it XD

[@logangravatt]

awesome video, very informative. :}

[@StaplesandVine]

Thank you that's very kind. Glad you enjoyed it. 🙂

[@boblewington1283]

Very interesting, just goes to show how much work goes into this process

[@StaplesandVine]

I'll be casting in the next episode and then I'll be doing an episode on decal printing which will be pretty involved as there are lots of options and techniques.

[@UzunKamis]

Thank you.

[@StaplesandVine]

You're welcome!

[@polcraken9407]

thank you for your knwoledge. Could I use castaldo ruber for yewelry for zamak ? thank you for your answer . in my country is dificult this kind of metal

[@StaplesandVine]

Thanks for the kind comment 'pol craken' My advice would be contact Castaldo and ask them directly. They do some high temperature rubbers but whether they are suitable for your needs I don't know. Most suppliers are very helpful if you explain what you are trying to do.

[@polcraken9407]

@@StaplesandVine thank you for your answer . I want to make pins for clothes

[@CitizenSmith50]

Interesting! Not far removed from the centrifugal casting I've used for silver jewellery !

[@StaplesandVine]

Thanks for the comment. This process is traditionally used for jewellery casting. Precious metal lost wax centrifugal casting is similar but a lot more dangerous. It's how the bronze undercarriage in my aircraft is cast.

[@patprop74]

Would vulcanized rubber withstand the casting of metal parts such as Copper and brass?

[@StaplesandVine]

No, this process only works for lo w temperature alloys. Brass and copper are cast using a totally different method. 🙂

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Im very surprised some of those thinner parts dont bend when pressed between the rubber sheets as it doesn't appear that soft.

[@StaplesandVine]

Some of the masters do bend in the mould and result in bent castings. Fortunately the castings can be easily straightened with some 'persuasion'. 🙂

[@jabonet]

The 3000 pounds is the pressure of the hydrolic pump. Not the pressure on the mold. I would like to know what is the diameter of the piston on the press to know the actual pressure on the 9" mold.

[@StaplesandVine]

Yes you are right. I have no idea what the piston size is. I just jack it up and keep my fingers well out of the way. 🙂

[@Spruedoo]

im looking to get into mold making where would you recommend i get my equipment from not having a great deal of luck with google for your mold making set up!

[@StaplesandVine]

If you are in the UK I recommend SEBA Developments, if you are in the USA, Tekcast. Both sell all you need. 🙂

[@viggovanhoutte4939]

Does this work for alluminium? Probably not

[@StaplesandVine]

Hi Viggo, NO this method does not work for Aluminium. Aluminium melts at 660C, using this method you will end up with a fire and probably a visit to the hospital.

[@educatingone-offs2229]

What is the brand/model of the mould press?

[@StaplesandVine]

Hi, I use an MCP press which I bought second hand many years ago. I think MCP are out of business now but Conley casting supplied our casting machine, they also make mould presses. Link - www.conleycasting.com/Conley_12_inch_Accu-Mold_Vulcanizer.html

[@jorgenava1726]

El molde de hule se ajoga en petroleo. Se corto yno pude agregarlo.

[@StaplesandVine]

Una vez que hayas cortado la goma no podrás volver a colocarla. Sólo tienes una oportunidad.

[@robertmccully2792]

I assume this is already vulcanized rubber. We’re do you buy unvulcanized rubber.

[@StaplesandVine]

Hi Robert, I buy the rubber un-vulcanized. There is a link in the description. The rubber is then vulcanized under heat and pressure in the mould press.

[@jorgenava1726]

El molde de hule convencional,lo puedes hacer que crezca hasta un 500 por ciento:simplemente ahogandolo durante 24 horas,posteriormente con parafina fundida sacas una copi bastante mas grande,a este priceso le llame "jonapru"

[@StaplesandVine]

Sí, pero no tendrá las mismas propiedades físicas que el caucho original, esenciales para esta forma de fundición.

[@jorgenava1726]

Un molde de hule vulcanizado,puede aumentar. De tamaño ahogando el molde en petroleo durante 24horas posteriormente se le cuela parafina para obtener una copia 500 veces mas grande espero les sirva.

[@StaplesandVine]

Gracias, me limitaré a lo que sé que funciona. Los métodos probados y confiables son más confiables. No tengo tiempo para experimentar y potencialmente dañar los maestros que han tardado varios meses en crearse a mano. ¿Qué resultados has tenido con tu método? Dado el coste del material utilizado para fabricar el molde, no parece que valga la pena intentar aumentar su tamaño. ¿Para qué sirve?

[@josephb3147]

Why not start by using 3d FDM Polycarbonate models that can withstand the vulcanizing process like professional prototyping is used?... even SLA resins are used... look at Nicem

[@StaplesandVine]

You are absolutely right specialist FDM and resin prints can be vulcanised at low temperatures but there are limitations. Heat build up during the vulcanisation process causes masters to soften and distort unless they are relatively solid two dimensional parts. I have tried this on several occasions but find for my application metal masters give a far better result. 🙂

[@josephb3147]

@@StaplesandVine I am dealing with this issue right now. I have had mine 3D metal printed... but I am interested in resin printing them, so what I am doing is letting someone else who does this professionally first to see if it can be done. Hoping to hear back today. Thanks so much for the tutorials!

[@StaplesandVine]

@@josephb3147 a good solution is to print in a resin that can be investment cast. That way you will get metal masters. You will get shrinkage and will have to do some cleanup but they will be durable 🙂.

[@josephb3147]

@@StaplesandVine thanks for the insight

[@ouchymytoe]

Man...I'd just use the entire blank instead of separating the laminations. That looks like a pain. I suppose that adds cost though.

[@StaplesandVine]

I could go for the full blank but it adds weight which makes the moulds difficult to handle. The left overs get used on another mould anyway.

[@georgen9755]

172 Pb Au

[@StaplesandVine]

1/72 yes, Pb yes, Au no.

[@georgen9755]

Supervisor

[@StaplesandVine]

yes

[@oscaranderson1822]

Need a teacher for mold making classes ? I'm one of the best with spin cast. Long run prototype. roadocast as well Created everything at medical accessories and research Zeeland Michigan.

[@StaplesandVine]

I'm good thanks. I do less and less moldmaking these days. 🙂