How to Platau hone a block

A plateau finish is one that closely resembles a broken-in cylinder bore. When the bore is honed, the surface of the metal will have microscopic peaks and valleys. Peaks don’t provide much ring support, so as soon as the engine is started the piston rings start to scrub up and down and shear off the tallest peaks. As the engine continues to run, the peaks will be gradually shaved down until the cylinder bores are relatively smooth and flat (except for the valleys in the crosshatch that must be there to hold oil).
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[@Jomasterhnes]

Wow! Thank you all for watching. LP and I did not think that this video would have had over 300,000!!!!! people watch it!! We are really wanting to do more videos and try different ideas, although i am currently very busy with work during the summer WE WILL be doing more videos when possible. We appreciate All of the feedback coming in, from the drill cable is not OSHA approved to (YES WE KNOW ABOUT OIL) testing on motors that are not going to be put into someones vehicles, but to try something and make a video on it.

[@nmsholdings5320]

Kindly connect me with the production company making this

[@jamesgibson5876]

I like the idea that mirror reflects the heat back to the piston as a way to reduce Heat absorbed by the block..

[@nitrousshovelhead]

thats funny

[@bobhood5357]

I run a rather specialised business in England where I just do rebores and honing on cylinders from 1.4 inches up to 4.4 inches in diameter. For this I have a couple of Van Norman 944's and an SPS mini boring bar (similar to the Van Norman 943). I also use both Lisle 15000 and Sunnen honing equipment for finishing the bores, and one thing I think you should mention in your videos is that honing serves two purposes. 1. It cuts through the work hardened surface of the barrel after it's been bored. The reboring process work hardens the surface of the cylinder as it's cut by the boring cutter. If honing isn't done after boring it can make it harder for the rings to bed in. 2. The cross hatching helps to hold oil in the cylinder wall and helps the rings to bed in more quickly. I realise that your demo was of a scrap block and that you are demonstrating the finish you get with different honing stones using the Lisle 15000 system. It's a shame that so many people who've commented below weren't aware that you were demonstrating the finish rather than trying to remove any metal. I've found that the Lisle 15000 is the easiest tool I've come across for stone replacement. Furthermore, I also hone dry rather than wet, although, when I worked for someone else as a reborer and honer back in the 60's, the people who supplied our honing equipement and stones (Delapena) recommended that we start with dry coarse stones and finish with wet fine stones. I now do most of my work out on the customer's site, with the engine still in the chassis, and much of this work is on tractor engines. I don't have the facilities to hone wet, so I just hone dry with both the coarse and the fine stones, and I find that this is sufficient for both me and my customers. Some recommendations I would make are as follows; 1. Use a slower speed drill that has a progressive trigger and two handles. The progressive trigger allows you to set the speed the honing head spins at so that you can keep it slow. You want to keep it slow so that if you hit the crankcase at the bottom of the cylinder and it jams, you won't break your wrist. Having a two handled drill will also help with this as well, and means the torque loading on your arms is reduced considerably. 2. Don't move the hone up and down the cylinder so quickly. I know you're spinning your hone quite fast, and have to move it up and down quickly to get a cross hatch, but if you use a slow speed drill you won't need to move the hone up and down so fast. Also, use a more powerful drill that allows you to put more pressure on the stones in the cylinder. It will cut metal faster while spinning slower, and will allow you much greater control over what you're doing and how much metal comes out. 2. As you know, the Lisle honing head has a system whereby you can expand and contract the stones quickly by pulling the adjuster at the top upwards. This disengages the fluted bar from the pins in the honing head block and allows you to turn the bar to expand or contract the stones. I put the head into the cylinder, then pull up the adjuster to free the bar. I can then turn the bar to expand the stones till they're touching the cylinder wall, then push the adjuster back down onto the locating pins. I can then use the small adjusting knob to wind out the stones the last little bit to put pressure on the cylinder wall. 3. Don't attach the hone to the drill till you've put it in the cylinder and wound it out to tighten it. Then hold up the connecting rod from the hone head and drop the drill chuck over it. Now tighten the drill chuck hand tight. It doesn't need to be done up with the chuck key because the end of the rod has flats machined into it to stop it from turning in the chuck. You can then hone the cylinder, and when you want to take the hone out of it, first of all remove the drill chuck from the hone rod. Then slacken off the adjuster on the hone head, and with it loosened off, lift the adjuster so that the fluted bar can spin. This allows you to turn the bar and contract the stones away from the cylinder walls completely before you remove the hone from the cylinder. Apart from what I've written above I think you've done a good job of demonstrating the use of a proper honing tool, so well done!

[@happydays454]

I'm a really poor dude in the USA and injust wanna run my hair back in the wind and I need to hone my block it does look similar to this one what do you suggest?? But I got a old honer and no cash but I got sand paper all types

[@Peter-V_00]

@@happydays454 Ball hone

[@georgesam7805]

Or go buy a CV-616 or CK-10. Would have saved 6 paragraphs of worthless explanation

[@BobHUK]

@@georgesam7805 I'd agree with you if the people doing the work could afford the $10,000 or more it would take to buy one secondhand, and if they had the room and the necessary power supply available to power it. Furthermore, a CV-616 or CK-10 can't be used at a customer site, so in the case myself, and of the video maker, who's obviously doing the work as economically as possible, a CV-616 or CK-10 would be out of the question. Regarding my paragraphs of recommendations about how to use the hone safely. I've seen people get hurt by not using the equipment safely, and I've been consulted recently about a young man who's lost an eye because of not using honing equipment safely. Hence my information about how to use the equipment properly and safely. I spent nearly 6 years in an engine remanufacturing company, doing virtually nothing but boring and honing cylinder blocks. We didn't have a CV-616 or a CK-10, but we did have a Delapena Beam Stroking bar that used a honing head very similar to the Lisle unit. Hence my posting on what we found to be the best method of getting the greatest performance out of the equipment we had at the time. No doubt a CV-616 or CK-10 would have done the job better, but we didn't have one, and neither does the person who put up the video, which is why I posted the information I did. Merry Christmas to you @georgesam7805, and may you have a Happy, Peaceful, and Prosperous New Year!

[@georgesam7805]

You as well !!

[@OK-ov3lr]

I have used this hone before and it actually produces great results. I use a truing sleeve to insure my stones are true and dial bore gauge for measurements. Can actually achieve .0005 or less top to bottom of bore. Also I use a really old Miller Falls half inch drill that turns at 120 rpm

[@JuergenDj]

you get a hundred points for turning down the sound when it got really loud

[@graham2631]

love the,sorry,old school. i've used this to bore out a block when money was tight. as a hole wears at top you start at bottom pulling out hone till it speeds up an push it back down. set tension again,repeat. once you get bore back straight work the full lenth of bore. as for cross hatch pattern to wear rings in i like a bit less 30 degree. bin a bit since i've done one might just blow the dust off mine. used to do rear slave cyd right on the backing plate with a mini one but they stopped selling the rubber seals a wile ago.

[@lp.670]

Witt Graham have you tried rubber bands to hold everything together? I got one of them kits too thank you for your comment 👍

[@sergalmat43]

Good idea!для тех кто не понял.идея не плохая.есть тип людей которые верят что после большого пробега достаточно поменять кольца и все..но в гильзе есть выработка.на этом видео он либо не додумался либо не все показал.он выровнял гильзу.но сетка глубокая и осталась не большая выработка в середине гильзы.следующий этап- на этот Хон надевается наждачка например 360 или 240я и с соляркой дошлифовывается.что бы сгладить сетку иначе маслосъёмные кольца за 10 тысяч км съест в хлам потом опять надо будет их менять и дело пойдет.да гильза станет на 4-5 соток больше но она будет ровная и расход масла после замены колец прекратится

[@lp.670]

Sergey kondaurov thank you

[@836dmar]

*Edited* to be less controversial. Found the instructions for the Powr Kraft, Lysle, etc. Instructions do NOT say to ONLY use oil. It does say oil may be used or you may use the stones dry. IIRC, dry stones should always be used dry and oiled stones should always be used oiled. Many may disagree from how they were taught or feel time has taught us to always use oil, whatever, but dry is exactly one way these may be used per the mfg. Certainly not worth yelling at each other about. Just admit it’s a great demo! Also, long time or aircraft mechanics are not necessarily more “right” than any others.

[@lp.670]

Thank you soo very much for saying that 👍👍👍👍👍...you done your research..👍

[@AuMechanic]

Actually it states and I quote "If dry honing, clean each cylinder thoroughly with any approved solvent and wipe dry. Be sure there is no oil or grease left in cylinder to get on stones. If stones should clog with gummed oil or other material, clean with wire brush. ALWAYS KEEP STONES CLEAN. Honing with a honing oil will produce a smoother finish and generally remove material faster than dry honing. If honing oil is not available, a mixture of 8 parts kerosene to 1 part oil will suffice. Keep cylinder walls wet so fluid will wash away material you are removing from cylinder walls. " Note it says "gummed oil" which is referring to the old gummed engine oil, not clean honing oil. And it makes it clear that if honing oil is used you will get a better result, as anyone experienced in using hones knows the honing oil does the job of cleaning the stones in use, and it's not like kero is hard to find, so not using and settling for a rougher finish is IMO a bit lazy, but its your engine so dry hone if a poorer finish is good enough for you. Hope that helps.

[@AuMechanic]

@@836dmar No, that is what the instructions say. But if you know better then the instructions of the hone manufacturer then you go right ahead and do it that way.

[@AuMechanic]

@@836dmar Gaslighting wont help you. And returning a year later to reply is the absolute definition of "defensiveness" as you still have not go over being called out on your original post. You said " it does NOT say to use oil" when in fact it does say use oil.

[@Jomasterhnes]

Not really sure what to say. We cannot belive this video is still going like it is, did we forget to hook up the break lines? HALF OF A MILLION VIEWS??!?!!!?! and 1,500 likes, WHAT!? We just cannot thank everybody enough. *Speechless*

[@Jomasterhnes]

L.P. did this to his cousins race car and it went from around 7.30's to around 7.0 in the 1/8

[@Jomasterhnes]

Hey guys, thank you for all the comments coming in. I plan on trying to do more videos if people would like to see them. I want to do an update to the video for the three phase and show how it is done, and will try to make a wiring diagram to show how we have setup the capacitors, but it might be awhile as i currently live out of town and only get about one day off of work a week. Also the s10 project is currently on hold and we do have plans for that in the future, but it WILL be awhile. We are also working on rebuilding a cylinder head and I would like to do videos on that. We also have several other projects i would like to do videos on. Again I would like to say THANK YOU to EVERYONE.

[@ViewThis.]

I notice in the comments someone said you need to replace the chord on your drill. I laugh because mine was the same way for quite a long time !! I eventually got around to it.

[@jerrymorgan1449]

Great MEASUREMENTS....buddy ur... FANTASTIC

[@hankclingingsmith8707]

IT FUNNY HOW NO ONE LISTENED, HE SAID FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES..HE DID NOT SAY THAT IT WAS THE COMPLETE PROCESS FOR REBUILDING OR REBORING.

[@lp.670]

Thank you hank 👍👍

[@FrenchieFrench1555]

You might want to replace the cord on your drill. Just saying.

[@lp.670]

Frenchie French thank you for your comment and I know 👍

[@dizziedes303]

The top of a worn cylinder has a ridge that must be removed before any honing is done , just enough honing to break the glaze on the cylinder walls with a crosshatch pattern.

[@lp.670]

Des Stanford yes sir I will agree.for stock rebuilds..the block I was useing did not have a rigid at top.its a.060 over 350 chevy.and what I was doing was more towards race blocks.thank you sir for your comment 👍

[@ScoutCrafter]

Excellent tutorial! Great close ups! Thanks!

[@firstworldboredom]

You couldn't have made a worse clip if you tried. 😂😂😂 Great job Billy Bob.

[@mafosa8519]

Loved watching all that! Just some good old fashion workmanship! Thanks for sharing!

[@lp.670]

mafosa thank you sir for watching 👍

[@Jomasterhnes]

Wow this video hit 100k, this is insane. I wish I could personally thank each and everyone of you for even clicking on the video. I never would have thought this would get so many views.

[@brandysigmon9066]

almost 300K now , awesome !

[@roberthoard639]

Good example of what Nat to do. So what size is that hole that needs bored? 4 stones? where are the stabilizers? Bore gauge? Taper? But it will run. Sorry I shouldn't beat you up. Make more videos it help guys learn. You will be OK in the shtf scenario!

[@lp.670]

Robert Hoard sir you did not beat me up I love questions like this.bore size is 4.060 .there was 2 stones and 2 wipper..no stabilization needed..the block was for dimo only....me and jomasterhn is working on a aude and we did the palto on cylinders and the cylinder went from ..0015 to..0025 other words..001 thousands buy this way.....and sir thank You for your comment 👍.....aney more questions just ask...sir

[@ThanhNguyen-iz6px]

Mong anh dang them vai clip sang tao hay nhu the nay.

[@lp.670]

Thanh Nguyen ty???

[@0x00zero]

recommend you emphasize that the 'plateau' is due to barely using the finer stone after the coarse. Maybe as few as 10-20 revolutions (maybe more since you didn't use oil?). Goal is to leave the heavy scratches there and knock off the peaks. Not at all like normal sanding where each grit is used until the former scratch pattern is gone. With cylinder, we WANT the deep scratches to remain and only flatten the peaks for faster ring seating.

[@lp.670]

Sir..I appreciate what you are saying..but if you would look at the video very close on the last cylinder you would see the cuts from the 80 the 500 was to create a mirror effect in the cylinder to keep the heat in it...the 80 was to keep oil on the walls....think you sir for your comment....

[@melonseedskiff1522]

Excellent video for a beginner like myself. I just ordered my hone kit today and will be using it to work on some suzuki samurai 1.3 engine blocks. It has been a couple years since you have tried the 500 grit, did it work for you as you hoped? Thanks again!

[@krzysztofapinski1603]

Live your accent. Texas!

[@lp.670]

Krzysztof Łapiński thank you sir 👍

[@joshuaswart3228]

Dude, get a new drill or tape the powercord up with electrical tape!! That cord os so unsafe, but i did learn something!!

[@lp.670]

Joshua Swart thank you sir 👍I will

[@0x00zero]

quit yer whining. there's no copper showing yet.

[@mikediamond1522]

Hang a can attached with a small tube and run a small stream of fuel oil on the stones while you're honing. When about done place a sheet of 500 grit or whatever you choose, abraisve paper in the bore; expand the hone against it: run the fuel oil and Finnish the Job. Mike

[@imarooster3548]

I make my living as a full time automotive machinist...kids don't do this ..it's completely wrong. Cast ring is 220 finish and chrome/moly is 340-360 depending on manufacturer . Scoring of those walls and a 500-600 finish I guarantee the rings will never seal and compression and oil consumption will occur. You WILL be tearing the engine down ...

[@lp.670]

Jim Phillips Mr Jim you was not lissing to the video..I said this is the way I done it...ty for your comment

[@pisankomirek479]

Jim Phillips ,

[@drcolster]

I believe your suppose to spray Trans Fluid in as well....or a proper honing lube.. Any way , Total Seal Piston Ring can show you how to hone cylinder bores... that's another option...

[@hildablanco1591]

Your dry cutting it will over size the cylinders and it will need a total block rebuild

[@dungvuanh3634]

Hello friend.. I see there are many tools used to polish cylinders, but some only have 2 stones, the other 2 sides are 2 felt pieces, these 2 felt pieces are effective. What, please explain to me

[@georgeliquor2931]

Looks like the flex on the drill could with some insulating tape

[@honingholes7026]

You need honing oil and just do an emery wrap to get the finish you need.

[@louisvanrijn3964]

Once I finished a flat-four to mirror finish in the barrels. Used high quality brand new scraper rings. I worked perfect. Drove 2200 km's with partitially full power in the mountains and the oil consumption was not measurable after that. So the HC emission due oil was near zero. Can anybody tell me what the hone pattern does? It is simply a matter of time and money.....to stop honing instead to go for a very fine finish isnt it?

[@jameshester3831]

Looks like a Lisle cylinder hone with felt wipers

[@sebrandomstuff]

Nice video guys.

[@lp.670]

Seb ́s Motor Shop thank you for your comment 👍

[@tuhoangminh672]

Bộ zoa thì ok rồi..giá mà cố định như khoan bàn thì chuẩn..ok

[@lp.670]

Tú Hoang Minh ty???

[@jamesgibson5876]

Old video but who knows ... so I will say to those commenting on oil for lube... why would you need to lubricate. Something you are trying to wear down ? If you ever have used a whet stone you know that oil or water used in the process isn't for. Lubrication . . It's so the stones don't fill up with cuttings and grit..

[@sarwarkhan7873]

Weldon dear....tell me that how can I machine and polish the inside body rings(seats) of gate vave above the 8inch valve. on a radial drill machine??? The device shuld be feedable while it will turned by spindle of drill machine....thanks...

[@tritonbradford1688]

I like that...Nice!

[@nitrousshovelhead]

great video but why not use honing oil?

[@tallyman15]

Great video on honing technique

[@lp.670]

tallyman15 ty sir 👍

[@singtracks]

great to see you doing it dry,,cant be messin with all that oil..it would be constantly bunging up

[@whiplashmachine]

We use oil to clean the stones. That's one of the reasons when you see someone honing in actual automotive machine shops, the honing process is flood oiled. Just a squirt here and there like I often see is mostly false hope.

[@kevinghifari2330]

I love your accents sir

[@lp.670]

Kevin Ghifari think you sir for your comment 👍

[@raymccormick6285]

Lube the damn stones dude!

[@mrfixit-sm6cf]

i was guna say the same shit LMFAO!!

[@mrfixit-sm6cf]

lube the cylinders too! lol

[@lp.670]

Ray McCormick if I lube it it would be hard to see the results of it but ty for your comment 👍👍👍

[@lp.670]

john doe ty for your comment but if they was lubricating it would be hard to see the cross hach on the cylinders

[@lp.670]

👍

[@drcoolautofix]

Hello sir, Can this tool be used to take 1.8 to 2.0 ? & can it be adjusted not to get over the 2.0 to be exact?

[@daivak.2972]

Is it possible to rub the engine cylinder block without a mixture, - kerosene plus grease?...

[@clos039]

Can you post a link to the honing tool? Thank you for the video.

[@johnwjr2905]

Lisle 15000, if you haven't already found out.

[@csapojanos9613]

Érdemes megnézni a fúrógép kábelét :D

[@lp.670]

János Csapó?????

[@sariefidoe8398]

Hi sir I have so many questions 1 is this tool just to remove the edge of the top the thin line 2 can this tool be use as a honing tool but to put the first oversize pistons 3 if it is how do you know how big you need to hone I mean the mm of the piston I have those with sanding paper I sand the edge but still when I put the piston and finished to start the machine has a lot of smoke coming from top we call it carter pressure

[@lp.670]

Sarief Idoe 1 question you probably can.I would not recommend it.2 question yes you can but it will take time.what you want to do use the 80 grit until you can. Just fit the new piston in then finish with finer stone to get proper clearance.3 question you will need to use a feeler gage to get proper clearance.if you get a kit like what I got it will come with instructions.and a big plus is you will see you can use this hone wet or dry I hope I have answer your questions...ty

[@josepeixoto3384]

By the proper sounds it made,i'd say it was cutting ok; if it was steel sleeved,oil might be needed,but being done directly on the cast iron,which is self-lubricating due to the carbon particles,it seems that dry is working well here; One thing i would NOT do: run the stone up and down so MANY times; reasons: 1--- you are ENLARGING the diameter, need to mike it again,to see if it not junk already!! 2---- since you are doing it BY HAND, the next pass DESTROYS the previous one,because you CANNOT follow the SAME scratches.

[@lp.670]

Jose Peixoto You Did not lisan to the video when I said THIS IS THE WAY I DONE IT ty for your comment

[@graham2631]

1-you can buy oversized pistons 2-i can bore a block this way an the engine 20y later is still running in the boat,by hand 3-you should stick to taking stuff to a shop or a car lot

[@lp.670]

Witt Graham sir the block was. .060 over all ready.have you seen the other video boring a block the pistons came out of that junk block.I can put 8 sleeves in.I just can't see cost and time.when it's a 2 bolt block.4 bolt yes. Ty for your comment.....You know what that make a good video.have to think about it

[@frankbritt2172]

Nice... Do you have the info of where can i find that stone assembly?

[@frankbritt2172]

the404man Productions Presents theDRIFTman thank you sir i really like your vids... Very helpful

[@georgekolotouros230]

To my understanding you don't want it too smooth . 280 should be fine.

[@lp.670]

George Kolotouros yes sir I will agree with you but when you are building a race motor you will expemt with different things

[@warwickdean]

For Chrome steel rings I'd be happy with the 280 finish right but if it's a non boosted application using molybdenum coated ring the latter may be preferred (as an example)

[@user-ih6vf5sw6k]

Первый раз вижу такой ручной фрезер!

[@lp.670]

Иван Шрайбер?????English please?

[@user-oy7nq6bi1y]

Такими и у нас колхозят часто. Но результат плохо предсказуем. А блок на видео гильзовать надо, так как царапины от поршней очень глубокие.

[@lp.670]

Олег Бонд okay I don't understand I guess you are happy with the video??thank you for your comment and watching

[@user-vk1xh1pq2y]

С такими задирами масло будет заливаться наравне с топливом. И разве с такой фрезой от эллипса избавится ?

[@lp.670]

Иван Иванов don't know what you are saying...guess you love the video...thank you for watching

[@suvakantasamal3739]

Nice wark job sir

[@lp.670]

Suvakanta Samal thank you sir 👍

[@gfd635]

Just saw this. Is it correct that you dry honed these cylinders?

[@glengillham5428]

Try getting a hone stop so you don't smack your stones on the bottom ledge of the cylinders. Some people sell them for less than 100 dollars

[@lp.670]

Yes I know...

[@poncoolride]

Thank you for the video!

[@lp.670]

You very welcome

[@Lika12061]

At the end you are surprised that your engine is busted... P.S. Just kidding :)

[@joecitizen6755]

Looks more like a bore job than a hone job ... I'm guessing you took about .005 off of it. But from the piston skirt slapped area ... I'd say that it could use a little more.

[@lp.670]

Joe thank you for your comment sir but if you look at the spot in the middle of the cly that was about.0005 of a inch and when on the final hone you can still see some of the spot on the cly so it sould have been.0005 not.005

[@kennethmarx3706]

He is burning up his stones !

[@tomwinkle1597]

No oil? I was taught to use 10 w oil while honeing

[@stevenbyrd4310]

My question is when are you going to measure the bore what's this is just for demonstration I guess you're not going to measure it

[@jimmosier3548]

Take a shot every time he says uhh

[@lp.670]

That's what happens when you do it in one take....no f...ing Hollywood here...like the rest of them...

[@dmitrikguajardo6006]

If you were planning on usingvthis block would you of used oils or soap

[@faxmactory]

Dude the cord on your drill lmfao

[@slappychap969]

STFU.. you're obviously incapable of doing a damn thing. This guy and guys like me laugh at you're sissy girly boys who cannot even fill up a tire lol.. Casey snow.. you Are laughable like a used tampon the dog ate.

[@TheRebelOne.]

Just curious how many thou over the cylinder is after the full procedure or is it a case of matching the piston and rings to the final measurement??

[@lp.670]

TheRebelOne this is the question that I have been waiting on....when you are dry honeing it doesn't take a lot out of the cylinder like wet honeing so you can do a lot more to the cylinder .....thank you for your question 👍👍👍👍👍ty.and to if you look at the center of the cylinder you will still see the dart spot in the cylinder was about. .0005 of a inch now wet honeing the 80 git would have takeing it out and starting to bore the cylinder...and once again thank you so very much 👍

[@dizziedes303]

The rings are always matched to the cylinder bore at the most unworn part.

[@snowmanreed6374]

This hone takes very little material but it does help true the cylinder and it puts a nice crosshatch on it. I NEVER hone a cylinder dry because it plugs the stone up with dirt. keep it wet and keep it clean and true...approx. a 33* angle each way for crosshatch so the crosshatch breaks the ring in properly...

[@lp.670]

Des Stanford sir did you really look at the cylinder the only place the hone did not touch was that little spot on the out side of the cylinder.....thank you for your comment sir

[@lp.670]

snowman Reed sir this hone I'm used you can used it wet or dry...thank you for your comment sir

[@carloscuello6956]

Nice Job

[@lp.670]

Carlos Cuello thank you

[@abecoulter18]

You should replace the drill. That power cable is dangerous

[@lp.670]

Abe Coulter Yes I will agree with you sir..and thank you for your comment 👍

[@vitaliyx8664]

What if polish surface of the cylinder to the mirror?

[@lp.670]

Виталий Гранкин the rings would probably never seat and have a lot of blow by thank you for your comment

[@verossavr3027]

Видео о том, как выкинуть блок.

[@lp.670]

vr 30 thank you for your comment do not know what you are saying.thank you for watching sir 👍

[@verossavr3027]

L P.manual on how to spoil the block.

[@uusaa1210]

100%

[@arturvoliavskyi3813]

100%

[@user-br5vp9wv3p]

👍

[@2006megablue]

Where did you get that tool from?

[@lp.670]

cumminsfreak pmd products.kit no# 15000 ....

[@faye9756]

Nice cross-hatch pattern! But dude, where's you lubrication?

[@Jomasterhnes]

Faye Huminski the stones we were using could be used either way, but we preferred to use them dry to try to keep everything cleaner.

[@faye9756]

Thanx. What hone did you use? About how much did it cost? I need one for small engines aluminum blocks.

[@bigbothoee8617]

Your speed is all over the place you need consistent speed from the other vids I've been seeing

[@angshumandas5210]

What's the name of that tool witch you attached with drill machine

[@Jomasterhnes]

Lisle 1500 hone kit

[@lp.670]

Thank you for asking and watching

[@brotang2953]

No oil?

[@happydays454]

I'm gonna start with 36 grit I glued on myself

[@alexluxe9941]

Где такое приспособление приобрести ?

[@gtifan298]

Oh, I get

[@mohdasifasifkhan9889]

Hello sir what is reason bike get smoke after reboring get smoked 3 months

[@user-zf9et6yl3n]

Where can i buy this system for scrub?

[@lp.670]

Владислав Цой You can possibly buy it on eBay but make sure it's a kit with different hone stones look for lisle 15000 kit..thank you for your comment sir 👍

[@otavioroberto4680]

Muito top o seu vídeo.

[@lp.670]

OTAVIO COESSENS wish I knew what you saying?

[@otavioroberto4680]

L P. Very top your video.

[@lp.670]

OTAVIO COESSENS thank you sir 👍

[@dmitrikguajardo6006]

Is there a polishing bits

[@yourselfdotcomlol]

That's some fine speaking right there boy I tell you what

[@lp.670]

john smith yep it shore is took me years to master it...thank you for your comment 👍

[@lp.670]

john smith and still working on it yep and then some👍👍

[@puzzled4163]

No honing oil?

[@adamibrahim6273]

notion : the movement of dóutee Not regular . maybe gives you a conical shape . ..good luck

[@SOLDOZER]

Wrong. Cast rings about 400. Moly rings about 600.

[@Wasbuttune]

What type of hone are you using? Could it be used to remove ring ridge?

[@lp.670]

Wasbuttune the kit is lisle 15000 hone kit.it came from pmd products.email is [e-mail] EngineHones.com and no it will not ridge ream the top of block

[@joescheller6680]

no a diferent tool to be used the ridge ring

[@lp.670]

Joe Scheller yes if the ridge is around.003 or more you will need a ridge reamer to remove the ridge...so very sorry I just seen your question..and soo very sorry about taking so long to answer your question..if the ridge is still in the cylinder it can break the top ring

[@abiodunafolabi3822]

Hi what size of flex hone can I use for 86mm

[@happydays454]

How do you do 45 angle

[@faridbakhshian221]

Hi How do you make sure what grit is good for your cylinder?

[@Peter-V_00]

Usually the final stones used depend on the ring requirements.

[@user-so4uq9kj3h]

Как это называется и где можно купить?

[@lp.670]

Колян Приоров thank you for watching

[@pexa1130]

Называется ручной хон.

[@mohdasifasifkhan9889]

Hello sir which grit is best honing stone

[@user-ie4pv9vv5e]

А движок перегревался похоже,остатки прокладки веднеются.

[@lp.670]

Oleg Sterk glad you love video thank you for watching

[@DarrenBoxhall]

I hope you don't use the same technique honing the bores as you show in this vid. I don't think I have seen more poor control before

[@lp.670]

Darren Boxhall is this the first time you seen a honeing video???? I think soooo.....but thank you for your comment and watching

[@DarrenBoxhall]

L P. Mate,I have seen and done honing. You don't stop,change speed and rate mid hone. You lock the drill at the desired speed,then you keep the motion constant,then when your finished,on your last up motion,you quickly pull the hone out of the bore

[@lp.670]

Darren Boxhall not on this hone you don't do that the instructions say nooooooo

[@lp.670]

Darren Boxhall thank you for your comment sir 👍

[@DarrenBoxhall]

So the instructions say "adjust speed from fast to very slow, sometimes not moving hone,when finished stop hone mid bore then drag it out out of the bore without spinning, ensuring to leave vertical scores up the bore as you lift it out". Is that what it says?

[@lekgalakebareny529]

pefect job

[@MrTDM09]

Damn, money 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾

[@eduardbalalykin5339]

Ахуенно,походит ещё.лайк сходу. Good job,good show

[@marshalllhiepler]

I know this is the "tried and true" method... But I certainly don't do this on my personal rebuilds. Seems primitive and haphazzard, to me. The cylinder material is what should be considered when choosing the grit number, not the ring material. I question whether people even comprehend what is occurring during the seating process. The ring material is so much harder than the cast iron cylinder. Its not as though the cross-hatch pattern serves to "file down" the high spots on the rings. Just the opposite occurs. The honed cast iron conforms to the contour of the hardened rings. I also refuse to use one of those honing tools on my engines (or my custmer's). Its like a caveman sharpening his spear with a rock. That was great when we were hunting the Woolies, but we are a tad bit more advanced today, I'd like to think. I select the proper grit sandpaper sheet, fold it to an easy to manage size for the bore I'm working on, then painstakingly create the cross-hatch pattern (by hand only) for each cylinder, changing the sandpaper to expose fresh grit for each. I have developed a knack for this process over the years, and it allows for a perfect pattern each time. Also, to the inevitable horror of the crowd, I will assert that I am very careful to "hone" the ring -travel portion of the bore only. The last thing I want, as I rebuild my engine for longevity, is to create an iron "file" below the ring-swept area of the bore, which subsequently induces unnecessary and accelerated piston skirt wear for years following the initial start-up. Think about it... the thrust-side skirt of the piston rides under great force, along a scuffed cylinder surface that does not get scraped by oil-control, or compression rings. Thus, the interaction occurs between aluminum and cross-hatched cast iron. We all have seen the smooth cylinder bores of used engines... except for where the rings don't ride. The original cross-hatch hone pattern is always still present below the ring travel. Why let that surface "sand down" your piston skirts? Just apply a little more thought and care when preparing your block for assembly. Well, I'm in my mid-fifties now, and despite the inevitable on-slaught of rebuke to follow this comment... I have been building engines this way for decades, without a single failure. I share these concepts for the benefit of those who can embrace them. Otherwise, I am o.k. with those who can't. Build your engines in whatever way you choose. (It makes it easier to pass you on the highway.) Ha. Cheers.

[@lp.670]

marshalllhiepler sir thank you for your comment it was very long..now getting to the sandpaper deal I done the same thing back in the late 70s early 80s.and there is nothing wrong with that.like you I'm in mid 50s...when you are building a race engine you try different things...see that is the defrent between you and me.you build stock..I build race..I've learn a lot over the years like carbs..cams..heads..pistons..rocker arms..and I did the same thing to my cuz race car it went from 7.30 to 7.00 in the 1.8 mile..and some people would pay 1000 dollars per tent...that's 3000 dollars...dam that was a lot of typen...again thank you for your comment.sir

[@lp.670]

marshalllhiepler and to 👍

[@donrutter6765]

I dont know,, I've seen quite a few cast iron rings go in cast iron cylinders. I've also seen alloy rings go in cast iron cylinders.

[@marshalllhiepler]

There are many different materials used for modern rings today. Cast iron, while still used for very low performance engines, has largely been replaced by better materials. Here is an interesting article that describes "ring evolution" over the past century or so: www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/the-material-details-evolution-of-piston-ring-technology/

[@lp.670]

marshalllhiepler are you having bad dreams about this video??sorry sir..I did not mean to upset you...I just turn 55 my self sir..you know they say you can't teach old dog new tricks...I say b.s. I still want to learn something new every day..and if you look at the video very close you will see the deep cuts is very small that is to hold a small amount of oil...what is the best thing for meadel to ride on????oil.....I done the same prosest to my cousin race car and it went from 7.30s to 7.00s in the eight mile....I have even seen the same thing in a book by grumpy Jenkins...do you know who he was?????I'll tell you he was pro mod in the 70s......soo is the old 55year old dog learning new tricks or does he wats going on?????once again thank you for your comment sir 👍

[@johnnyjames7139]

Anyone who makes technical how too's should use correct words. Motors are electric or hydraulic, engines are vapor operated. Motor and engine are therefore not interchangeable.

[@lp.670]

Johnny James I'll have to remember that next time.ty

[@Jomasterhnes]

Yes, we made a mistake. we will make sure to use the correct terminology next time, or do the best we can XD. Thank you

[@PWgadgets]

Johnny James Too and to are not interchangeable either so it's best you just pipe down instead of trying to sound smarter than you are

[@whiplashmachine]

True that! Heading out to ride my enginecycle now, peace🤣

[@tmjaudio4173]

Good