How To Prep A Receptacle & Switch Box

Making up electrical boxes for Rough-in. Look soon for the sequel on 3-way switches.

[@fvrrljr]

*i paint my twist's green* photovoltaic / solar thermal technician here: i use to use the off-white ones for my grounds then started coloring them on my own projects. guess someone copied ? oh well lost that ship... having holes in them *nice* 👍 guess i'll start buying them vs painting. as daughter was growing up she'd get a kick out of me buying nail polish at dollar store. great touch up paint enjoyed you video *Cerveza For You* 🍺

[@RCHBuilders]

I remember when I started doing electrical professionally at 15 that they did not have the green wirenuts, I remember the first time using them being around 2004. Painting them green with nail polish to differentiate them was a good idea though ..LOL.

[@fvrrljr]

@@RCHBuilders *Thank You Brother IBEW 428*

[@mayberry5043]

Hey, I actually needed to know this. I got some plugs I need to replace.

[@RCHBuilders]

Some day soon, I will need to do a video on actually replacing a receptacle.

[@mikesimpkins7919]

Nice tutorial. Thank you

[@RCHBuilders]

You're welcome. Glad you liked it!

[@hunterstark9556]

Good stuff my friend

[@RCHBuilders]

Glad you liked it! Thanks!

[@jplieurance]

Nice explaination. Thanks.

[@RCHBuilders]

Glad you liked it!

[@omar-qe6dy]

Thanks for your time.

[@RCHBuilders]

My pleasure! Thanks!

[@oxm-xv2io]

at 8:50 what if you need a Neutral for a WIFI Outlet, would you just pigtail it with the white?

[@RCHBuilders]

Yes, if the owner decided to get a switch that needed a neutral, I simply add them at the time. It keeps the box neater in the meantime, and from needing to also fit extra wirenuts inside the box if they are not needed.

[@achillies40]

Why is your earth conductor not insulated? In Australia, the Earth conductor in any cable is insulated with Green insulation with Yellow stripes. We used to have insulated earth conductors but they were phased out in the early 80's I think. We also no longer use solid core cable for the most part. Cables for power points and for lights are stranded conductors. It's interesting to see the differences in installations.

[@RCHBuilders]

This could be very lengthy, so I will probably do a video on it in more detail sometime. With residential homes being made of wood instead of metal or cinder block, it is common to use romex. In commercial however all earth ground cables are green or green with yellow strip insulated.

[@achillies40]

I would be interested in seeing the reasoning behind this. Houses in Australia , no matter what they are made from, are wired with the same cable. The same cable is used in commercial and industrial settings as well. Pretty much all cables are stranded and all the earth conductor is insulated.

[@BrettMcNary]

Because we're stupid over here in the USA and we like exposed ground wires extremely close to our exposed hot poles in the outlet box. ;)

[@surferdude642]

Don't you need a pigtail on the neutral wires in case the homeowner uses a smart switch as you mentioned?

[@RCHBuilders]

I prefer to add them at the time of the switch install, if needed, this helps keep the box neater and less cramped if not needed. Some smart switches need a pigtail, but most of them have pigtails attached that would get tied in with the neutrals.

[@surferdude642]

@@RCHBuilders I get your reasoning, but I view wire nuts as once and done, and if you need to add another wire later it compromises the joint, imo. Wago lever nuts have a distinct advantage in these cases.

[@binaryglitch64]

​@@surferdude642compromises the joint? Really? Just straiten out your conductors, and re-make-out your joint and use a new wire nut. If in the process of straightening out your conductors you find the need to just clip off any damaged or compromised and restrip. Then pre-twist and cap. I've never had a problem, never got a call-back on a re-worked join in 29 years. Like maybe you need re-evaluate how your re-working joints.

[@icevariable9600]

To be precise, the actual code 2023 NEC 300.14 "At least 6 inches of free conductor, measured from the point in the box where it emerges from its raceway or cable sheath, shall be left at each outlet, junction". So it's 6" from the end of the Romex sheath, which should penetrate at least 1/4" inside the box, 314.17(B)(2) "Where cable assemblies with NM sheaths are used, the sheath shall extend not less than 1/4" inside the box and 1/4" beyond the end of any cable clamp."

[@RCHBuilders]

Very much correct. I never go with the minimum.

[@binaryglitch64]

For refrence, here's the refrenced code In full as it's shown in the NEC: ************************* 300.14 ()()- ************************* " *300.14 Length of Free Conductors at Outlets, Junctions, and Switch Points.* At least 150 mm (6 in.) of free conductor, meas- ured from the point in the box where it emerges from its race-way or cable sheath, shall be left at cach outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or the connection of luminaires or devices. The 150 mm (6 in.) free conductor shall be permitted to be spliced or unspliced. Where the opening to an outlet, junction, or switch point is less than 200 mm (8 in.) in any dimension, cach conductor shall be long enough to extend at least 75 mm (3 in.) outside the opening. _Exception: Conductors that are not spliced or terminated at the outlet, junction, or switch point shall not be required to comply with 300.14. "_ ************************* 314.17 (b)(2) - ************************* " *(2) Cables Entering Through Cable Clamps.* Where cable assemblies with nonmetallic sheaths are used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (¼ in.) inside the box and 6 mm (¼ in.) beyond the end of any cable clamp. Except as covered in 300.15(C), the wiring method shall be secured to the box or conduit body. _Exception: Where nonmetallic-sheathed cable is used with single gang nonmetallic boxes not larger than a nominal size 57 mm × 100 mm (2¼ in. × 4 in.) mounted in walls or ceilings, and where the cable is fastened within 200 mm (8 in.) of the box measured along the sheath and where the sheath extends through a cable knockout not less than 6 mm (¼ in.), securing the cable to the box shall not be required. Multiple cable entries shall be permitted in a single cable knockout opening._ " I agree with ​@@RCHBuilders code is the minimum standard. It's the floor, not the ceiling... so I prefer to go above and beyond. That said to be cost effective (especially on spec homes) I can understand only meeting code on conductor length.

[@danan9037]

Nice work, can i hire you? Glad you don’t do “service loops”

[@RCHBuilders]

That would depend on if you live in the area that we are licensed in! I rarely use "service loops," but always leave extra wire when doing so...I hate going to change out devices in peoples houses where the guy before left no slack to work with.

[@JalonBerrios]

6 inches from the outside edge of any box

[@RCHBuilders]

Thanks for the comment! I am always glad when someone goes above and beyond the minimum requirements. But in the video was wanting to let people know what the code book state. I am thinking of doing a video explaining this and a couple of other commonly misunderstood codes. As per NEC code 300.14 in the latest code book. The minimum is 6 inches from where it emerges from its raceway or sheathing. If the opening of the outlet, junction, and switch point is less than 8 inches in any direction the wires most extend a minimum of 3 inches from the edge of the box.

[@normmiller-l4o]

Nice work but again stuffing the wires into the box BEFORE stripping is so common but rediculous.. always strip before putting into box i see it all the time