How To Add An Outlet To A Finished Wall

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

All My Favorite Tools - geni.us/GYnAhy4 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@bamm2pointohh]

Good job bro i see a lot of people leaving negative comments this is a great idea and awsome method..

[@juliantichy7016]

​@@bamm2pointohh qqq

[@marcuspeters5855]

I ... KNOW this already. Good vid though

[@seapeoplesdidnothingwrong1307]

I like to check the other side of the wall before cutting. Make sure there is no power or anything else.

[@brandonnguyen1748]

Where do you get that stud finder? Thanks

[@OwenZylstra-z5e]

I’m an electrician with 48 years experience and was still impressed. Good job.

[@Bwick_1776]

I’m genuinely curious: why would you watch this then?

[@OwenZylstra-z5e]

My experience is motor control and automation. This just came to me and I had to watch it.

[@lordhexon]

48 years ? Seriously ?

[@pipefitterwithguns8688]

48 years of shit

[@pipefitterwithguns8688]

@@Bwick_1776😂😂😂😂

[@dancarter8400]

As an experienced craftsman and past electrician I watched your video expecting a train wreck/ hack job. Boy was I surprised. You did an excellent job! I will be adding you to my list of people to recommend. Great work!

[@0623kaboom]

handy tip .... NEVER ASSUME both outlets on a box are connected together ... test BOTH sockets on an outlet to ensure power is off ... the resulting shock when one finds out someone wired 2 different circuits into one socket is enough to make you never make that assumption ever again

[@civildiscourse2000]

Fair caution. I always check both. Sometimes one outlet will be switched, especially in a living room. Sometimes the duplex is worn or faulty. If the outlets are truly split (e.g. on a 3-wire circuit) then they should be fed by a two-pole breaker and both be disconnected when it's off... but there are lots of things that _should_ be and aren't. I agree, check both outlets.

[@frontiervirtcharter]

Check with a non-contact tester, worst case there could be a loose wire in the box with voltage on it.

[@ayporos]

@@frontiervirtcharter Fuck even that. I've got zapped a few times doing electrical work when I just started doing DIY stuff so now I don't trust ANYTHING and I shut off EVERYTHING when doing electrical.

[@patrickharding8851]

@@ayporos yep... new place I am in, has crappy labeling in the box, and some stuff in the same room is on different breakers... just easier at this point to shut it all down, until I can map and label it all...

[@frontiervirtcharter]

@@patrickharding8851 The non-contact tester is part of the map-and-label process.. See what squeals before the breaker is off, and check again after.. Can be a literal life-saver

[@lsteiner]

As a licensed plumber, I felt compelled to watch this to the end, because us trades need to know EVERYTHING about all the other trades right! I'm glad I did because wow, you explained all this very clearly, and the good tips were coming fast and furious! I'll use this some of this knowledge somewhere I'm sure, maybe in my own trade. Thanks!

[@patriot1303]

Industrial electrician here - this tutorial was brilliant. It’s so annoying when someone shows how to run wire and they have a big ol basement under it to run it through - ya obviously that’s easy if you got that but most people don’t. The trim trick and even pre-installing the connector was very clever and as someone who does work on his own house I really appreciate it - thanks and bravo! 👏🏻

[@Noslime]

Industrial electricians are just that, industrial electricians. Most get lost in a house just as I would get lost doing 600 V plus in their facility. Please don’t encourage this guy. He’s a hack in my opinion and go eventually get sued out of existence

[@Noslime]

And he also uses connectors for me should be twisted his wires together and at least using a wire nut and if not a crimp sleeve…. If you are a licensed electrical contractor as I am, then you should know better

[@rharris22222]

Agreed. I figured he would run the holes below the trim, but actually seeing the technique was good. But "Good to great" was the pre-install trick for the romex connector. Wow! Many thanks!

[@j.morrison73]

@@Noslime Not to discount your experience but those connectors he used are more than acceptable, with my own 50 plus years of diy work I would use them only on solid wire even if they are permitted on braided wire. Your opinion amounts to 'old school die hard mentality', akin to old school plumbers not having nice opinions of using PEX over copper. Myself included of/in my own 33 year techno career, many 'old school' techs are very resistant to change. But it doesn't mean it won't work. In fact in many cases, works better.

[@miamih01]

There's no difference in backstabbing and using wago's.

[@stinkyham9050]

HVAC mechanic with 20+ years experience here. The way he connected the box connector to the wire first and used it to fish through the box is brilliant. I will be using that trick in the future for hard to get at boxes.

[@mycaddigo]

That’s the way to go … they also make plastic snap on that you could put on after The wire is thru the hole …. Ive dabbled with those bout almost always use the medal ones ..

[@stinkyham9050]

@@mycaddigo I hate the plastic ones. I find they fall out easily or don't go in to begin with but to each their own.

[@mycaddigo]

@@stinkyham9050 When you’re in weird situations they can come in handy.. Electrician friend gave me a bag is full of random stuff and there were some of those inside…… But I typically Always use metal

[@stinkyham9050]

@Andrew_koala Someone shit in your corn flakes this morning buddy? I'm just wondering since you're so angry about my use of the word "tricks" how many trade licenses you have. I have 2, one for natural gas and propane up to an unlimited amount of BTUs/hr and the other for commercial/industrial refrigeration. Those 2 tickets let me use the word "trick" all day long if I choose and no one questions me since I'm an expert in my field.

[@mycaddigo]

@Andrew_koala lol …… you actually take yourself serious …….😂

[@gpa6344]

This is, without a doubt, one of the best videos I've watched on home work/remodeling. Well explained without all the added unnecessary blather. Thank you.

[@rickyoung6653]

@James Mamone Be quiet and keep your negativity to yourself. Most people have enjoyed this brilliant video so if you don't like it then move on.

[@mgaribaldi6553]

😂 he was complimenting the video

[@Ozzie_Comics]

You are literally a life saver! I’m going through tough times as a teenage girl and my parents are going through a divorce, and my mom has not the first clue on how to do anything with basic home repair. I thought I would just learn all of this myself! Thank you!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good on you for taking on a challenging situation and leaning into learning some new skills. I hope things calm down on the home but a curious mind is a powerful thing 🙌

[@SitarHero28]

Stay strong. You got this. Good for you for recognizing the struggle of being a single parent.

[@Ozzie_Comics]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks so much for the kind words! I appreciate it ❤️

[@Ozzie_Comics]

@@SitarHero28 thank you so much, I needed to hear that ❤️

[@Birdsflight44]

Hey, I've been there, and a couple things: Measure EVERYTHING three times! You're inexperienced, and there's a ton of dumb things with DIY, like how the measurement of lumber isn't actually what its called, and a lot of entry level tools are not 100% accurate. (my first square came wonky lol) Also, if at all possible, get decent wallpaint if you (or your mom) are picky about how it finishes. A decent paint is going to be so much more forgiving if you need to go back and patch than the cheapest stuff. (but don't sweat it too much if you're not the kind of person who has to have impeccable drywall surfaces lol) Also, be nice to yourself. You're going above and beyond. This isn't your responsibility.

[@nathanliburdi9924]

This is the best electrical tutorial I have ever seen. I have been an electrician for over 16 years and I usually don't recommend people do their own electrical, but from now on I am going to direct them to your chanel.

[@rayspeakmon2954]

33 year electrician here. Great video! I also never considered removing base board to do that type of install. What a great idea and so much easier to fix than drilling out holes in the drywall!

[@coolhluke8089]

Yup that's how I used to do it

[@keithb6717]

33 years and you never used a 6’ flexible bit? Are you really an electrician? I don’t think so.

[@alonsoaragon6916]

GREAT JOB,NO MESS!

[@keithn4304]

This is all totally reliant on having 4" baseboard.

[@keithb6717]

@@keithn4304 Who cares about baseboards? Why even touch them, go direct. Duh

[@LTGRamos]

Once in a while we bump into a video so informative we cannot but think every video should be made in the same way. This video is simply packed with tricks and useful info. Awesome!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks man 👍

[@oaklandsdriveresidents7590]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs But where's the earth wire sleeving? Obviously different regs in the US

[@Iceburgh4458]

​@@oaklandsdriveresidents7590

[@larryfontana9207]

DITTO!

[@metaphyzxx]

Truer words never spoken.

[@EngRMP]

Really nice job, and great video. I'm a 67 yo electrical engineer and do my own home improvements including finishing my basement. That's a clever trick to take the wiring down to the baseboard. Nice job describing the potential gotcha's like stud holes where your trim nails will go, clipping the old trim nails instead of yanking, and strain relief/protection on the cable going into the metal box.

[@PelicanPines]

Thank you for vacuuming the open bays out before you started the work. It's what I do. I see so many SLOBS just leave everything. I had to go behind one of my corner kitchen cabinets to run a wire and found coffee cups, rags, actual garbage. I felt like contacting the contractor who did that work... to come pick up their garbage. Being clean is a quick and easy way to NEVER leave a tool behind.

[@choimdachoim9491]

I opened up an old bathroom wall during renovation and discovered that they had stored all the drywall scraps inside which had become covered with mold from a bathtub leak. After clearing it out and coming back the next day the room had dried out and I noticed that a heavy, oppressive atmosphere had disappeared from that room that wasn't noticeable until it was gone.

[@TheTubeDude]

I seen where slobs put their lunch scraps and packaging trash inside the walls. Just kidding. But I'm sure it happens.

[@jesseneumeyer4279]

Residential electrician here. BEST KZbin tutorial I've come across. He didn't miss a thing for old work! In a perfect world, a romex staple would be placed below the box to secure the wire, but it's not a perfect world. This however, in my opinion was a perfect install. PS We dont use wago connectors because they're expensive lol

[@udavidism]

We don't use Wago connectors because they're garbage. At 8:42 and again at 9:16 he said "we don't back wire" that's because all real electricians know that is garbage. Using Wago connectors IS BACK WIRING!

[@empireofdirt9045]

We don’t use Wago’s because they fail to much. Use a wire nut!

[@SonofStormblessed]

​@empireofdirt9045 my first thought. I just assume everyone suggesting to use Wegos is a hack...because they are. The amount of times I've had to replace burnt-out wegos is ridiculous.

[@jesseneumeyer4279]

@@empireofdirt9045 The lever ones arent as bad as the spring clip ones, but the point stands, wire nuts are better and cheaper

[@todd8155]

I thought metal electrical boxes had to be grounded. I didn't see a ground to the metal electrical box.

[@terryjanssen316]

Been an electrician for 40 years and a contractor for 30. Never thought of this. Now I want to buy and learn how to use a brad nailer. Great job!

[@fakeaccount8342]

Fuck all that shit bro, staples and duct tape is where it's at!

[@BlaiserAid]

That's a nice technique, I have used it several times over the years. Nicely demonstrated. I have a pro tip for you. When you use an old work box for a new outlet, many times the cover plate doesn't meet flush with the wall - there can be a small gap between the cover plate and the wall. When this happens, you can avoid this gap by breaking off the tabs (ears with loops) on the top and bottom of the outlet. These outlet ears are scored so that they are easy to break off - the outlet is designed for this. You can see the top ears clearly at 9:26 in the video. When you break those tabs off, the remaining top part of outlet will then set closer to the wall, in between the blue tabs on the top and bottom of the electrical box, which hold the box to the wall on the edge of the hole in the drywall. This allows the outlet to be seated closer to the wall and the plate will also seat closer to the wall, eliminating the gap.

[@SonofStormblessed]

Or... you could just get a metal old work box, seeing how they can be adjusted to sit back further in the wall. It's what I personally do. Of course I also DONT do residential work, so plastic isn't really an option for me.

[@toopoorformensa]

Thanks for the tip, didn't bother to even see if I could fix that problem!

[@ToughCanadian]

As an electrician I am genuinely happy to see nothing scabby here. Well done

[@toddcooper2563]

I am one of the senior maintenance technicians at my job, and although I fall under the mechanic side of things, we all crosstrain into the other departments such as electricians and welders. Working in the industrial market, you'd think residential projects would be child's play, but that's not always the case. This channel provides exceptional advice that would otherwise be costly to hire out and this is one of the many channels that have been well thought out.

[@tonybloomfield5635]

I worked as a network and communications cabler for many years. Getting cables from A to B is almost always harder in domestic versus commercial situations. The threshold of what is visually acceptable, conduit, ducting etc is much lower if it's not someone's home (with some exceptions).

[@JoelAckerman99]

I've been doing this stuff for over 50 years (as a DIYer) and I have to tell you, I learned SO MUCH from watching this. You are my new hero! Thank you!!

[@toriless]

Including what not to do !! Never pigtail when you have two screws instead! So BASIC! A HUGE error!!!!

[@gragor11]

@@toriless Perhaps but better not do that in Canada.

[@robertfrost4321]

Amen Joel

[@georgegerman9009]

Same here. Been doing it the wrong way. But learn something new today. Thanks

[@bradlivezey2783]

@@toriless never use both screws, code is to always pigtail

[@KONIXMUSIC]

Wow! Speaking as a 12 year old domestic farm animal that is also a first time home owner living with my clueless parents who don't know the first thing about DIY, your channel has been a real life saver! Thanks so much!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help 👍

[@blessedwithchallenges9917]

I've been a contractor 30+ years. I wasn't sold on this process at first. But this guy covered all the issues. I'm impressed and can back him up. Thanks for not being a hack- good job!

[@michael184272]

One question...why did he pigtail the wires in the new Romex with the existing Romex.. wouldn't it have been possible to connect the black - white new wires onto the bottom screws of the existing outlet.. what am I missing? Any information would be appreciated 👍

[@blessedwithchallenges9917]

@@michael184272 length maybe? I don't remember the whole video at this point.

[@kimsotus]

​@@michael184272 He had a whole box of Wago nuts and just wanted to use them. But you're correct, in that the new black and white wires could have been connected to the bottom screws of the original outlet.

[@michael184272]

@@kimsotus Thank you

[@craigchatterton4164]

@@michael184272 I was gonna ask this same question! Thanks for beating me to it two months ago. 🙂

[@richardreynolds2322]

Brilliant!!! I'm a retired master electrician with almost 60 years experience - why did I never think of this????? Many thanks!

[@pedrocerveca2579]

I been a sparky for 30 years and I still picked up a couple tricks here. I love the use of a magnet and the block to keep your cut level. Cheers Pal.

[@CMDR-Cody]

I'm Just a DIYer when it comes to high voltage but I have done commercial and industrial low-voltage for a few years and I never thought about this base board trick for my house. I feel like this is going to change the game for my home theater install in my finished basement. I was seriously worried about how to run new outlets and cables without having to mess up the drywall. Fantastic Job!

[@brianfox340]

I did electrical work in the navy, but avoiding drywall work is why I hesitated to do work on my home. This was super easy, and I'll be using this for sure.

[@brianfox340]

@Andrew_koala As a fellow pedant, I do appreciate the accurate correction, but I intentionally don't capitalize out of disrespect. Was not a fan of my experience.

[@stinkyham9050]

@Andrew_koala Do you just go around looking for the smallest error in a person comment just so you can leave a reply acting like your superior. I've seen a few of your other replies and seems like you feel you're always better then them. Were you even in the Navy since you're lecturing someone that was in the Navy.

[@donander1]

This is probably the best do-it-yourself video I have seen on KZbin yet. And not just that but all of the comments I have read have provided as much information as the video. And no flame wars. Great!

[@michaelking42]

I've been an electrician for 30 years. I'm also a rehabber. The small details you covered surprised me. Your explanations are clear and concise. Most of the things you did, I thought, "Yeah, but are you going to do....oh." And you did the little things that I do. We should team up. Best regards, Mike

[@michaelking42]

@@TonyFisherPuzzles You too! That's awesome.

[@tpgoat]

To bad this install has multiple code violations. 1. not installing afci protection for the extended circuit and receptacle and 2. not installing a tamper resistant receptacle.

[@MrMaxyield]

@@tpgoat *too Also don't state there are code violations and not state which codes are violated...🤷‍♂️

[@tpgoat]

@@MrMaxyield 210.12(D) and 406.12

[@cecillec2331]

@@tpgoat You mean New World Order codes being violated? Oh, my!

[@mickcawley4797]

Hi, I'm a British Electrician and I watched out of interest to see the difference between our system and yours. So apart from the voltage (ours being 230v ac) I thought I heard you say you used a 12 guage or 3mm cable, where we use either a 2.5mm + 1.5mm cpc or ground in your case for a ring main system or a 4mm + 1.5mm cpc for a radial system. Our colours are different too, we use Brown for live, Blue for Neutral and we use a green/yellow sleeve for our bare cpc, which you appear to omit. Appart from that the obvious back box and socket types was the fitting you used to protect the cable entering the box, yours being a solid fitting with a locking ring, which is, in my opinion superior to the rubber grommits we use. If any of your viewers are curious about British electrical systems they should look for Artisan Electrical on KZbin. I really enjoyed your video, though👍🇬🇧🇺🇸

[@georgeklimes7604]

I assume your use of the thinner wire is due to the lower current?

[@denniscummings1398]

I love when someone makes a video that is clear and clever (watch alot of car fix videos). Too many guys don't carefully explain the steps - this guy is fantastic!

[@noel8313]

That's Apples to cheesecake, adding a socket to the wall vs a top end overhaul. Lmao the tolerances... I'm sorry, just cracks me up you'd compare the 2. Shit, just compare the price difference and you'd ... well you should understand. 1 Line of work is far more complicated, and it ain't the off on one. But thank you, I'm still giggling! Too awesome

[@tucson298]

I agree... very thoughtfully explained.

[@brebre3582]

Indeed. I agree. Very great with good detail and clever planning ... I was amused that he said he's lousy at caulking. Tell me that's him being funny! Such an expert at this and admits caulking got him beat??!!

[@natifatirecette6660]

👈👉Pour des recette tjr facil et trop bon a tout le monde 🤗🤗🥰🙏

[@anothersomebody8195]

@Karl with a K ?

[@StonerCreek74]

I have been using this common sense approach in these particular situations for 20 plus years. So I was very surprised by the number of comments as if this was a new technique. Thanks for posting this and helping out folks that otherwise have been obviously doing way to much work in the past for such a simple task! Great tutorial.

[@rogeriomoura6557]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWbaaoSZfsZpf9k

[@denverbraughler3948]

The NEC has been updated since you started. Nail plates are required to protect the cable from severe physical damage.

[@BobScotts]

I loved that you accounted for the little things like drilling your holes above the drywall cutline to ensure your (or future) baseboard brad nails don't hit the wiring. Also, well done on pre-attaching the cable clamp. A "push-in" style would have made that potentially somewhat easier, but the threaded ones are of course super secure. The only issue with this strategy really is when the homebuilder cheaped out and installed 2 1/4" casing as baseboard...it'd be pretty tough to achieve this with only

[@alanross3435]

“Once in a while we bump into a video so informative we cannot but think every video should be made in the same way. This video is simply packed with tricks and useful info. Awesome!” new sub here! ☮✌🏻

[@jaybutera3353]

Thanks for this video. Brilliant method and very clearly explained. I have one suggestion which you might want to consider. Before you reinstall the trim, it might be a good idea to caulk the cut lines on the reinstalled drywall piece. This would preserve the integrity of the air sealing in the house for those trying to maintain a tight house with low ACH. This caulking will be covered by the trim so it doesn't have to be pretty.

[@allenmoore6096]

I thought the same thing, but would have ran a bit of mud across it.

[@mjremy2605]

Yes, good idea. I would have spackled it though with some plaster or such. Cheaper than caulk, flatter, and dries faster. Caulk if applied like a sandwich, may not stick to the dry plaster ends.

[@larrybidinger3363]

Here's another handy tip: when doing old work, ALWAYS do it an outbuilding, where is no @$%*$ drywall. This has saved me many, many hours over the years.

[@normanhaney583]

Pointless if this is an interior wall

[@gino007able]

if you want to strengthen the box and keep it from damaging the drywall. only a very small amount of drywall is keeping the box secure. put some glue on 2 pieces of lath about 4" long and glue it to the top and bottom inside of the drywall where the tabs hold the outlet in place. I then use claps and let them dry. it will dissipate the stress from pulling the plug from the outlet.

[@AdhamOhm]

6:28 all these years and I never considered attaching the NM clamp to the cable first, before installing it in the box. Learn something new every day.

[@joelee2371]

Good trick; I do this quite often. I use a 90° angle head drill, so great for getting into stud bays and drilling through sill plates. A 4 ft flex bit is also a handy tool.

[@BubbasDad]

One of my best watched KZbin videos. After watching this video, I have used this technique many times. Only one change. I do use the oscillating to for finishing my cut, but use the Dewalt DCS571 20V 4 1/2" Circular saw for most of the drywall cutting. Two reasons: It give a really good straight and clean cut, and a number of times, in a couple older houses, I have run into thicker walls ( sheet rock over wood). Also much quicker and can attach the vacuum to the tool. Normally with 3 1/2" base trim, I can use a 2x4 flat on the floor as a spacer and with the offset of the saw blade to the shoe of the saw I end up with about a 3 1/4" cut. Really, thanks for the idea. Also, drill your holes as high as possible, so as to hopefully miss any nails used thru the bottom plate into the studs. Cost me a very good drill bit.

[@dandersonanza]

Your video taught me a great deal. Until now I've been more surgical at this type of work--cutting smaller holes just at the studs, then passing the wire through notches and kick plates. But that leads to occasional difficulties remounting the trim or sheetrock between the added space of the kick plates and their nail-repelling properties. Your method, with the wholesale removal of the sheetrock at the beginning, avoids all those problems and only adds a little extra cleanup. Thank you for showing us!

[@danbeeson9564]

If you do have a situation where you still have to cut through and patch drywall it is by far easier to cut a 5 inch wide channel the entire distance and patch it as one piece. Reinstalling little pieces Takes more time and requires more work to mud the wall smooth than one long patch

[@denverbraughler3948]

Nail plates are required whenever the cable is less than 1.25” deep.

[@waynemiller6070]

This was surprisingly good. I see a lot of contractors in the comment section complementing your work. I’m not a contractor but I’ve done enough electrical work to know that this job was very well done.

[@Naldo_S1K]

@Karl with a K wha?

[@notbraindead7298]

I’ve done a lot of electrical work in my life but this is the first time I’ve seen this trick. It’s quite brilliant. Thank you for the edu.

[@cs_fl5048]

I liked this. I have done this. The most pleasing thing to me is telling people to be consistent.. vertical or horizontal with the plate screws. That's not just OCD, it is a professional look.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Agreed.

[@kevinmart6376]

( 12 year commercial electrician) Great instructional video I would like to add my only concern was you neglected to bond the metal box in which you drew the power from I understand it was an existing box But as far as I understand it if you open it up you must bring it up to code. Bonding the metal box itself to the ground via Green ground screw screwed right into the back of the box and pigtail probably Should’ve been done on the original install. Obviously this doesn’t pertain to your plastic old work box grounding and bonding is very important to protect against electrical shock.. ps. I am a commercial electrician very rarely do we use Romax type wire I could be wrong but I believe the same rule applies as long as the box itself is metal

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good call Kevin and I should have mentioned that as the existing bare ground coming in was cut long and wrapped around the bottom mounting screw for the integrated cable clamps to bond the box. Little confusing and I should have outlined the importance of bonding metal boxes which is a mistake I have made in the past for sure. Thanks for the help!

[@wssometimesavowel3639]

Nice,!! I am no electrician personally. I just have a dad and had a grandpa RIP who had electrical background and repair knowledge who had taught me things I now use. I seriously love the video and all KZbin community for sharing and improving common knowledge for semi-simple people like myself who are (considering) trying to do a DIY project the right way..., DIY possibly from a lack of funding to hire someone, due to Bidens gas inflation, possibly large corporate greed, or possibly loss of job from pandemic that caused the place you worked for for 2 years to go out of business. But still the individual has enough basic "know how" to have confidence that they can do it too. It's really empowering, and inspiring! So thank you for the video. It makes me want to share some of my own personal experience and knowledge (on a different subject matter) that could be helpful for some people.

[@donaldkasper8346]

My entire house uses Romex.

[@toriless]

My concern isa the two idiotic pigtails, every socket has two screws, use them! Dummy!!

[@ruffxm]

@@donaldkasper8346 Most suburban homes do. It's fine.

[@ut4321]

FANTASTIC content here. Using the trim to prevent this from being a drywall and paint project is like the drywall dust clouds parting and seeing the DIY blue sky for the first time. Love this!

[@tonythomas951]

and if you dont have base boards you can always add them

[@stephensanford4383]

@@tonythomas951 Even if you don't have baseboards, cutting the drywall at the bottom cuts the repair to one joint instead of two.

[@sally-3830]

I did this to hide an alarm wire & thought I was a mad genius🤣 Best tutorial and love how you clean as you go. Excellent work!!

[@felixmadison5736]

Excellent! I've done work like this in my home for the past 30+ years, and your videos are a must have for people like me. Thank you for your invaluable info for the home handy-man...Like me!

[@LWRC]

Well done!! Pretty straight forward for most homeowners to DIY! Your channel is an absolute pleasure to watch as you convey all the information clearly and concisely. No filler words nor any gab just to fill up air time!!! Your production is on par with a professional broadcast and you should be commended for putting out such a polished product!!!

[@mikek.8017]

@Karl with a K Steel boxes do. Not the plastic ones, though.

[@terrycartwright3653]

I always thought the wire had to be a certain height off the floor for codes?

[@tdematteo01]

I love the consistency and professionalism of having your plate screws at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9. That’s the finishing touch that gives the job a better look but no can tell why. Nice touch.

[@thereinthetrees_5626]

I’ve noticed through game development. Usually the people who notice small details like that, are the ones who ensure all the other details are looked after

[@TheRangerDr]

A good man knows his own limitations, a great man admits them and refers you to a great caulk guy! Y'all helped me wire and seal my new kitchen! Thanks guys!👍

[@danpaesano2429]

IBEW retired ten years. I like the tool you used to removed the trim. I never saw one before. Never did much residential work, but with with daughters who own homes I am always adding outlets or lighting in closed work situations. Nice video. Rather than using a plastic old work box I cut the nails off a plastic nail on box and drywall screw it to a stud.

[@mikemike7397]

You just blew my mind. I was getting sick of cutting drywall and drilling through the stud and then muddying sanding texturing and painting this just saves so much time you are awesome

[@denverbraughler3948]

He should have mudded to avoid leaking air and giving insects a place to hide.

[@ronaldharris5562]

Good work. I’m a Journey Electrician and I learned something today. I do comercial and industrial on my day job. But I’m constantly doing side work in Peoples homes and businesses so always trying to pick up tricks on fishing wires especially across studs. I done that type of stuff but it was the baseboard trick that I thought was slick

[@PetesCreativeRecycling]

Ive been looking for a video like this for MONTHS! Not one other video had the idea of removing the trim! I didn't think of that and now I know I can do what I need to without a professional! Thanks!

[@stevenwilkinson8373]

What a great video for DIY!! 2 small observations: Not knowing how many outlets are already on that circuit might be an issue. Electrical codes are clear on max number of outlets per branch circuit I’m not saying you did anything wrong just be sure to verify your circuit capacity before adding an outlet 2nd observation: Those types of connectors are bad , bad , bad Yes they’re UL listed and a LOT of “electricians” use them but if you really research how they are made the surface that actually touches on 12 awg wire is less than 1/2 of the diameter of the wire itself This small contact area is high resistance which will cause overheating of the connection and failure Twisted wires and wire nuts are the ONLY proper way to make a pigtail connection

[@billstager9477]

I've been remodeling forever, yet I learned more tricks in this video than I've learned in a lifetime! Great, informative video.

[@hellspice1]

Then you obviously weren't paying attention. Nothing new o In this video. Also a lot of assumptions that aren't always true

[@JimJones-bp5id]

I would recommend (urge) using BX armored metal clad cable for this!! Very easily a new owner may nail through non metallic cable while changing or installing taller base moulding!! Nail plates are good at the studs, but a stray nail may hit even between studs. Thats why i would say armored cable for this job is a must!!

[@Steve_K2]

Hard to express how terrific this video is. No wasted time, everything shown and explained. The standard for KZbin.

[@casaraku1]

Love that you speed up parts of the job so its not a long video and to the point. Nice work.

[@masonoliver8818]

Beautiful Just one thing... I was taught that when installing a device into an old work box, you break off the ears on top and bottom around the screw holes so that the device flushes up between the ears of the old work box better, making it easier to flush the plate, especially if it's ceramic, to the wall

[@bluenotesharp]

Only if it’s ceramic and not cut out or it’s a handy box with a wraparound cover. The ears make the offset perfect on drywall locations so they should not be removed. There are also little horseshoe rubber plastic/ rubber washers for when walls are double or ceramic tile is thick. They are stackable so you always have a tight fit with no wiggle which always cause trouble eventually.

[@ryanpotter1122]

Great video. I've done this trick many times and can say that you explained everything very well. The only thing I would add is that you really should add kick plates on the front of the 2 x 4 studs, overlapping the area where your wire runs through them. That way, in the future, if someone shoots a nail or something in the trim, they can't hit the wire. Thanks for posting this for everyone.

[@Stevelemontrudy]

In the video he explained that he drilled his pass-thru holes higher than his trim. There wouldn't be a way to put those plates on b/c the holes are behind the drywall left in place. Since the holes are higher, he won't hit the wires when reinstalling the base. If someone else comes and puts a taller base in, they're out of luck.

[@yyz2go2112]

Agreed- or make sure the hole is directly in the center of the stud leaving minimum distance of 1 and 1/4 inches from either face of the stud as per N.E.C.

[@jonnyjazzz]

Does he not need to use wire staplers to clamp the wire the the stud? I'm fairly certain you do where I am.... at least, I did it in my basement.

[@Stevelemontrudy]

@@jonnyjazzz Probably not. It's pretty common to steal power from an existing outlet or switch to power something new like a ceiling fan that didn't exist in the room before. You would not staple those either b/c no one's paying to redo a bunch of drywall just so you can staple the wires to your ceiling fan.

[@jeremyc6054]

or, as an alternative, put a short piece of steel pipe through the holes in each of the studs, and pass the romex through that. Not 100% foolproof, but if somebody ever comes along and tries to drive a long nail or screw into the stud at that location, it would be stopped or deflected up/down to avoid the wire running through.

[@gantmj]

The second outlet protrudes past the finish plate because the four ear tabs weren't broken off where they contact the blue box. Break them off so the outlet is at the same depth as an outlet whose ears contact the drywall. Don't use an inch drill bit so close to the end of a stud, especially if the wall is load bearing. Use a half inch bit.

[@TRMNNYC]

I know this is an old video and response, but I think the code says strike plate wherever there is a stud. The inspector for a CT big city would insist on it, as I've had that conversation. Otherwise, it's a terrific video. Oh, the inspector also forbade me to be within several inches of the base board. This guy had sheet rock to the bottom, where 4" or so of baseboard can be found on a lot of old work, especially Colonial trim. I was absolutely forbidden to pull wire through the base board space. I was told by the inspector, "Even though you know it's there, someone might come along who doesn't...." Also loved the magnetic stud finder. Clever.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback and you are right that your inspector could have issue with this approach. I have used EZ Guards on other vides for added protection amzn.to/48hvQ35

[@stevefifield1207]

Good video! One tip, when using old work boxes you can remove the ears off the outlet so the outlet recesses better into the box and its cover will sit flush. Ears are useful on new work boxes so you can get the outlet stable against drywall, especially if the box is recessed a little. On old work boxes, the box itself has ears for that stability so you don't need the extra set on the outlet - and the box accommodates this with the center being recessed a 1/8 inch from the ears on the box corners. The *de-eared* outlet will sit perfect in that recess allowing a clean cover plate flush on the wall.

[@rt1qwerty]

I noticed this also. I was glad someone already addressed this.

[@88KeysIdaho]

I recently did a similar project, and found the plastic "old work" boxes, even with the metal ears removed from the outlet, required that I use the outlet covers that are slightly larger. Kind of annoying, and wondering what others do to remedy this issue. No clue, still.

[@christophercrawford2736]

That’s actually a great tip. I use tons of old work boxes and never remove the ears on the outlet. Now I understand why my cover plates sometimes sit a bit proud.

[@larrywalker7759]

Yes, and the ears even have pre-scored separation points that only require a few bends back and forth with pliers to remove them. No reason not to do it like they were made for.

[@christophercrawford2736]

@@larrywalker7759 yep

[@nonprogrediestregredi1711]

As someone who has been doing construction for over thirty years, I was curious if you were going to use this method to feed the new outlet. I've used this very same method before. It works quite well as you demonstrated. Great video!

[@bthompson2192]

Why did you speed up video right when you are adding the connectors. This part should be shown just as clear and slow as cutting the drywall. Had to keep replaying to get the info.

[@garym3420]

@@bthompson2192 the connectors are a waste of money and time. Outlets have terminals for adding a daisy chain to it. connectors add heat and junk to the outlet box. this tutorial is bogus and dangerous.

[@connormerrin7832]

You are not the other hand I promise to be a good time and consideration

[@tonykaiser1169]

You deserve as much viewership and recognition as my boy Jeff over at ‘Home RenoVision’. Keep up the good work, you’re helping a lot of folks out.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the kind words, those are some big shoes to fill but I will keep cranking 👍👍

[@mrnapolean1]

Jeff is one of the guys who taught me how to tape and bed drywall. Without him and Vancouver Carpenter, I wouldnt know nothing about drywall.

[@denverbraughler3948]

Failed to install required steel nail plates.

[@matsudakodo]

@@denverbraughler3948 and how exactly would that be achieved with the drywall up?

[@denverbraughler3948]

@@matsudakodo: The drywall was cut out behind the baseboard to run the cable.

[@johnbagewll2321]

35 year tradesman here. This was a great DIY vid.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks so much for the feedback.

[@JLvatron]

Wow, that was amazing! As a non-electricaller, I had to rewatch the 8:18 part over about the lever nuts, but it made sense! I can't believe how clean a job you did, really fantastic and well explained.

[@charlesco7413]

Yeah i rewatched that several times as i thought he was talking about the bundle of wires in the box somehow "pulling the wire" into the box? and i was like (What?)..?

[@patrickhaege3121]

If you’re using a cut in box you should take those little washes off the top and bottom of the receptacle that way it won’t stick out too far and have a gap on your plate

[@cougar24]

@@patrickhaege3121 You are talking about taking the "ears" off of the receptical so it fits in the screw slot in the cut in box.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

So i just did this a couple months back....if I could, I would recommend anytime you're going through a stud like that with a drill, to bore holes for the romex, use a 90° adapter with a 1/4" end spade bit that works with impacts. You can get the bit more horizontal and don't have to lay down and push super hard at an angle. And I recommend Spyder Stinger bits. 🙂 Good video bud. Edit: I'm not saying the adapter or an installation driver (What I have, a Milwaukee M12 with multiple driving bits) is the BEST way to go about it.... I'm just simply saying that in my experience, putting holes in old work, a 90° adapter or installation driver is a great tool to have in your back pocket.

[@Asiansxsymbol]

I don't know what you just said, but ok boomer

[@LzysGraphics]

@@Asiansxsymbol stay classy

[@Chris.Rhodes]

@Garebear yep! Exactly! I have the M12 Fuel Installation driver! I love it.

[@huejanus5505]

@@Asiansxsymbol Lost you at 90°?

[@davids7209]

@@Asiansxsymbol You don't have to be insulting just because you lack the knowledge to understand what's being said.

[@seanbrouillet8440]

This was a great video. I have to add outlets to a lot of customers home for tv installations, and this is helpful. The only thing I might recommend is not pulling the entire length of romex through the drywall at the new outlet location but rather feed it through the studs first and then back feed it up to the new hole ln the sheetrock so that the romex doesn't have a chance to tear or damage the drywall. I've damaged enough sheetrock by accident by pulling lengths of romex through a new hole.

[@williamsmith8522]

I have a need for some overhead fixtures/fans and running into a similar issue, one room has crown molding that is isntalled poorly to begin with so will use a similar technique to this

[@pkirkey6932]

I’m not afraid of having to do a little mudding, caulking and painting but, OMG; this tip is brilliant. I’m now imagining never running out of outlets. The Husband isn’t convinced but I’m getting myself a WAGO kit and fixing a bunch of stuff myself. Done waiting.

[@Pinko-Diamond]

I love having outlets exactly where I need them!

[@defeatSpace]

your house is going to burn down

[@jeffmuller1489]

Don't overload your circuits.

[@PW-iz8yk]

I replaced an outlet for the first time,i turned off ALL electricity i wasn't taking any chances the only problem was the thick neutral and hot wires damn took forever.One proud lady!

[@mgomez6804]

I would recommend installing metal plates on the studs specially when running electrical so close to the base board. Someone might install wider base boards and it may cause a problem. Great video showing the right tools.

[@1stockdale159]

👍🏼 I was going to say the same thing. I was thinking that’s in the code book but I’m not for sure.

[@perwilly99]

I almost did that on a similar project but found the presence of those plates caused the drywall to bulge out just enough to cause me problems with the baseboard trim. I think him locating his holes high above the drywall section was smart, precluding the need for the plates.

[@timplummer8995]

Good catch!

[@jimhughes1070]

Going to have quite a bit of trouble getting the trim to look straight As the sheet rock will bulge at every stud...

[@nostrilnick]

Awesome video. As a homeowner on a slab with a zillion inches of insulation in the attic, I always wondered how I would do this. Now I know!

[@aieeejo]

Thanks for this fantastic tip! I wanted to mention using metal shields or guards in the through-holes drilled into the studs, but other comments already pointed that out. I accidentally discovered a possible alternative: my local big-box DIY store was out of 15 & 25-foot 12-gage cable (which is locked up on the shelves!). However, expanding my search in the aisle, it turns out they had metal-shielded 12-gage cable in all lengths, for about 25% less than the unshielded, and not locked up! Voila! Two checks in the boxes - cheaper, and one less step of adding stud-hole guards! (I don't think it's as thick & sturdy, but then I also don't expect a lot of nails to be pounded in at the baseboard level to make this precaution a firm necessity.)

[@sns1804]

Yes, I liked the way to vacuum cleaned the floor as you go. And I like the way you used painter's taped above the studs to identify the studs for re-nailing the dry wall and baseboard. Planning is everything. Awesome video, short and to the point. You're the man!!!

[@lsteiner]

Painters tape, yep borrowing that handy dandy idea!

[@michaelripperger5674]

Yeah you can tell he isn’t a real electrician. They just leave their trash on the ground

[@Seemsayin]

When I first clicked to watch, I thought you were gonna convert the supply box to an external wall mount, then add wire mold & another wall mount (which would have looked cheesy). Despite the fact that each install may not be as simple as yours (older homes, outside walls, going through corners, outlets mounted inside thick molding), this is a very clever idea. 30+ years wiring, and never saw an approach like this. Nice job.

[@Dozav7]

Exactly. I’m thinking of using this technique on my 120 year old home. The bedrooms only have 1 original outlet each!

[@Seemsayin]

​@@Dozav7 Chris... I've come across the older homes, where an outlet was installed through the molding. And each time, I was forced to put a surface-mount. It's funny that your idea never occurred to me. Every time I ran into this, I'd scratch my head and think... oh great... this again. Even if I was feeling daring...& wanted to cut holes, I'd be afraid of cutting into something, other than the molding. Really glad I stumbled onto this video. Thanks for taking the time to make it available.

[@sirnatanielson]

I was curious, and when I skipped forward and saw you pop the trim I knew immediately what you were going to do. In my apprenticeship, I had to do this to run a wire to an outlet that got added after the fact. Saved the GC issues on a finished room. It's a clever trick that can save you provided you know a little bit of this and that (carpentry and electrical). I also liked the very quick video cut as you went to put the locknut on! Because anyone who has put a locknut on in an old work situation rarely gets the nut to grab first try. Nice video and good reminder for next time I have a tricky fish on the job. (Although I don't keep a brad nailer on my van so that's an issue...)

[@hitek835]

Atta-boy

[@xyzct]

I'm just finishing a new build -- a 600 sqft beach house. I asked the electrician to place the outlets, and then double them. The extra cost was tiny, and the effort negligible. Some have laughed at all of my outlets, but I love them!

[@BWGPEI]

I do love watching someone who knows what they are doing and can explain while they work. May you live long and prosper!

[@kerrydavis4290]

Well, he wasn't really explaining while he worked, it was edited and narrated and stuff.

[@calculator1841]

@@kerrydavis4290 He what's what "he's doing", but ain't right.

[@truthseekerKJV]

Sodomites rarely live past the age of 55. Either by disease or sucide.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Awesome video! Going behind the base to drill the holes was very smart. I have never done that so you just showed me something brilliant. I’m familiar with wiring new houses that a remodel like this seems challenging. Thanks!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks man, how is your house coming along?

[@rogeriomoura6557]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWbaaoSZfsZpf9k

[@denverbraughler3948]

Don’t forget to install nail plates to protect the cable from severe damage as required by the NEC.

[@maxderman447]

@@denverbraughler3948 nail plates are only required if the edge of the hole is closer than 1.25" to the face of the stud. 3.5" stud, 1.25" on each side, 1" hole in the center. Perfect

[@denverbraughler3948]

@@maxderman447: Yes, but then running the cable behind the baseboard is fine. He didn’t mention centering the holes in the studs. He specifically mentioned not to run the cable behind the baseboard that needed to be re-nailed. Why is this if the cable has the baseboard plus more 1.25” of stud depth protecting it? Did you watch the video?

[@johnlcallaway]

Appreciated the tip about getting the clamp on the old work. I did have two questions, why use pigtails when you can connect both wires to the upper and lower screws for hot and neutral? And shouldn't you have put wire protector plates on each stud to protect the wires from nails or screws in the studs by code?

[@SeanD313]

If one were to wire this without pigtails, the current to the new receptacle would have to flow through the existing receptacle. If the existing receptacle were to fail, the new receptacle would lose power. Perhaps not a major problem in a case like this, but still best to avoid, since it is so simple to do so. In cases where multiple receptacles are on the same branch circuit, such a failure could mean an entire room (or more) losing power if the first receptacle in the series fails. In other words, pigtails for all receptacles removes a potential failure mode. It isn’t a hard and fast rule (and local codes can differ quite a bit), but generally, one of the few cases where all “downstream” receptacles should receive current through the first is when the first receptacle is a GFCI, and the downstream receptacles need GFCI protection.

[@openeyes-411]

@@SeanD313 A somewhat reasonable explanation Sean... However, the current is flowing thru the solid jumper plates on the sides of an outlet - so in reality I see no point to this extra step.

[@MrKeith5021]

One common failure in outlets is the terminal screws coming loose over time. If you jumper all outlets to the next it's a lot harder to troubleshoot where the loose connection is. If you pigtail the outlets and hook them up in parallel, you can just look at the outlet having the problem.

[@Thorin7.62]

@@openeyes-411 seen too many receptacle failures take out everything down stream of the failure, as little extra work as it takes to do pigtails, it's well worth it, 20 year electrician approves this message

[@fiveohgod]

Pigtailing is done because forensics has shown the little removable tabs between the duplex's upper and lowers can overheat and create a fire. Pigtailing makes your recepticals work in parallel instead of series.

[@edwinsanchez8698]

This is amazing. I just moved to the US almost a year ago and have no idea about wood made houses. I'm from Mexico and houses there are made with concrete, I know for sure how to install a new outlet in a concrete wall but not wood/dry wall. It's also interesting all the tools and hardware you have to use for this, it's obviously safer. Where I'm from we would just connect the wires together and put some electrical tape and that's it.

[@3pinskier]

Great video! One thing I would add… when I use my trim puller… I place a wide putty knife blade between the wall surface and the trim puller; thus, preventing any damage to the wall.

[@TehButterflyEffect]

His baseboard puller has the putty knife built into it. Pretty nifty tool.

[@qsdfcvgyjmkl]

Scott, I just found your channel via my recommendations. I had no idea who you were and what your channel was about--I was just interested in this video. However, you have completely blown me away with how straightforward and informative you are in your videos. I am by no means a pro, and I wouldn't even call myself a DIYer just yet, but I think that I can definitely begin tackling more home projects well with guidance from your videos. Just let me say this: you make some of the best tutorials I have ever seen. Please keep up the great work!

[@williamcrowley5506]

If you live in an older house, I would confirm the studs are in the right place. I constantly find different spacing on mine, but it was originally built in 1918, so things get a bit wonky.

[@jugheadjones5458]

I am about to start remodeling a bathroom including a new vanity with a sink. There never was a light above the sink, but there's an outlet on the wall to the left of the sink. I'm going to install a light on the wall where the back of the vanity will sit, and plan to tap off of the outlet. I knew I had seen this video before and thought I had saved it, which I didn't. At the time, I didn't know that it would come in handy. Now that I have my plans made I have to run romex through 2 walls that come together at a 90 degree angle. Your video makes it look easy, and it probably is. I'm going to take my time making the cuts and running the wire. I have the luxury of time for a change because the bathroom is on the top floor (we have 3 levels which includes a nice finished basement) and rarely gets used, but it needs to be remodeled. I'm so glad I found this video and appreciate your example and explanation! I'm really anxious to take on this challenge!

[@austinc.8219]

Never would have thought to go down through the base. Just saved me alot of drywall repair thank you!

[@ihave35cents95]

Doing the drywall repairs faster.

[@fakeaccount8342]

Put a shelf in front of it, done deal😜

[@dennisranck1613]

I have done some electrical projects of my own. I have never run across a need to use this kind of setup. But, seeing this is so clear to me of how easy it is. Thank you.

[@MrDan144]

As soon as you went for the skirting board (trim) i was like "genius!" My only thoughts are that (not sure if its a U.K. only regulation) but the cable runs between accessories must run inline with the accessories either horizontally or vertically ( i assume to make it easier for people in future to know where live cables may potentially run behind walls) but i suppose once the wall and skirting board are back on who will know!? Great vid and great tips.

[@gibblespascack1418]

I saw this video just before Christmas. Then I followed the process and added lights to a non-illuminated closet. Thank you for doing this video. I learned something and now we have seen the light in our closet.

[@willst101]

This was amazing. I have no basement or attic and have been trying to figure out how to do exactly this. Thank you so much for sharing your techniques.

[@jaygreenstein3334]

I’m 84, and I’ve been doing this since I was 10, and began “holding the flashlight” for my dad, who was an electrician. I liked both that saw and that baseboard removal tool. I have to get them, though, personally, I often pop a hole on either side of the stud, drill, then fish inside the wall, from opening to opening with a coat-hanger, like using a needle and thread. For the DIYer who doesn’t own that saw it’s a much easierway, one that leaves all the existing nails in place and avoids the, “Oh my God” surprises you get trying to remove the nails. Plus, you don’t need to saw, remove/replace the wallboard, so it saves time. It also works on plaster walls, which the method you show won’t, because the nails are buried under the plaster. God help the DIYer who watches this and then tries it on a plaster wall. But mostly, I just notch the plaster over each stud (that saw will be great for that), going several inches on each side, and then do the needle and thread thing, ending up with with the wire nestled against the stud. I cover opening with a stud-guard, and have cut the install time down by a lot. And why use a 3-way connector when, except for ground, there are screws for both sets of wires on-the-outlet. And since you have to tighten the second outlet screw in any case, why not use it? If one screw does the job reliably, and terminal boards use many, why would the second not hold? I’ve never had one fail. Nor have I had any UL approved quick wires fail. And I’ve been using them pretty much since they came out. The only time I’ve ever used such an external connector is when there are already two wires on the outlet. It is, after all, why they have 2 screws. And while putting the connector on the wire before installation is fine, most installed outlet boxes don’t have a 1/2” knockout. They have a built-in wire-clamp, so you should at least mention that, and the fact that the smal hole makes it easier to fish down and pull the wire in that sit poking at the hole. And one final thought: Is that Home Depot’s, Carlton old-work boxe? They absolutely suck. They don’t precut the threads in the ears or the box, and the hole-diameter in the ear is slightly smaller than the shank of the screw they supply. So it’s not only a bitch to screw in, that undersized hole often causes the ear to break a month or more later, resulting in callbacks. And the plastic used is so brittle that if you overtighten them just a bit they’re apt to break off (easy to do with an electric screwdriver). I’ve taken to pre-threading the holes and using machine screws when I'm forced to use that box, but the DIYer usually can’t do that, or know it’s necessary. I’ve not tried the parent company, T&B’s, box, but a friend who is a working electrician says they’re okay. If so, the viewer should be warned to use the light colored boxes in Home Depot. They cost a bit more but have real threads.

[@SchoolYa]

What a great video. This is one of the best do it yourself videos I've ever watched. Thank you

[@tgsparkyoriginal]

It's so interesting watching different countries do their wiring and their style of outlets. In Australia we don't use a box behind the outlet. We rarely use solid core wire. We can put a lot more wires into our terminals on the outlet and all our outlets have switches to turn each outlet off.

[@Sembazuru]

This is brilliant. I've been dreading trying to figure out where the bathroom wall sill plate is from the basement to run a second outlet from the (only) GFCI in the bathroom. Just a few more tools for me to buy (the trim remover, an oscillating tool, a drill extension, and a brad nailer).

[@andrewbrindescu6666]

Slim pry bar short or long ,short chubby/long spade ,spade extension 6" and 18v angle drill by Ryobi or Ridgid will do for start.

[@tactileslut]

For finding invisible things my course locator is a telephone tone sender/receiver kit, then I'll narrow it down with a stud finder then use my phone's sensors to find some magnets.

[@lorenrickey5481]

Use a stud finder and blue painter’s tape to mark stud locations on the wall. Cut a opening for a cut in box (plastic box with wings) in between the middle of the two studs. Using a metal coat hanger (or buy a 1/8” x 12” drill bit) drill though the floor against the front of the wall where you cut the opening for the outlet. Remove coat hanger wire (drill bit) and leave in the floor. Keep your bearing in mind and go downstairs to your UNFINISHED basement. Find your coat hanger wire (drill bit) and drill a 1/2” hole up BEHIND the drill bit (coat hanger wire) and up through the bottom plate and into the wall cavity. Remember to try and drill through the MIDDLE of the bottom plate!! Pull your wire and make your connections. If you do use a drill bit be careful with carpet. It can catch the pile and pull out a row of yarn. Hope this works for you.

[@yoyomama5203]

You will most likely get into trouble adding conductors into the box with your GFCI. If it is an end of line circuit in your existing box you could terminate to the load side of the receptical. If there is more than two cables going into the GFCI box you probably will be overfilled. And it might work but it'll be really hard to make it all fit.

[@GunGuy258]

This is genious! I have never seen this done in the early years when I was a residential electrician. This will be life saver for me in the new house that I bought. And it saves wire even if you have access in the attic.

[@toriless]

I have full attic access, but I also have cabinets on the other side of the wall I do not want to remove.

[@RM-xc9vf]

It's well done only thing I see is those way gos as you call them aren't needed in this application because you can just attach wires to screws on plug....Less splices equals less issues down the road. Don't make joints unless you need to . Plus I've seen those way gos they're cheap made in China and over time will fail. Best off to avoid them marrettes far better proven connection. Industrial maintenance electrician I've wired Lotsa new + old homes in my years in trade...

[@rockietrout3784]

Commercial electrician here with alot of home projects, this was an awesome DIY, nice clean, thought out install! Good work man!

[@kmisercola7180]

I used wagos on a project and they are great to use. I did have one flipper open up when putting the wires back into a "tight" box so I now do with wagos what I was taught with wire nuts and that is to give them a wrap of electrical tape to prevent any way for it to open accidentally.

[@celticstephenhill]

Fantastic video! I especially liked your attention to detail (ie code) with the strain relief nut (you referred to it as a "connector"). I liked that you drilled above the baseboard line, but I wouldn't use an inch spade bit for the stud holes though. Code in my city is only 5/8" but I use a right angle drill attachment and a 1/2" bit which I find is plenty of room for 14/2 romex wiring. Fun fact: in Canada, we use metal boxes unless its outdoors. It's nearly impossible to find those sweet plastic boxes in standard hardware stores (we also don't have to ground light switches).

[@GrahamLeach]

You can find plastic boxes at Home Depot but they are badged for "low voltage" applications. They're orange and great for retrofitting scenarios like this one.

[@dwc0]

Yes, 1/2" is plenty of room. 1" hole removes 4x the stud material for no gain.

[@perwilly99]

New subscriber after watching this. One of the best, clearest descriptions of the work I’ve seen on KZbin. Very well done. Look forward to seeing your other videos.

[@michaelruskey2311]

Residential Master Electrician here. Very good tutorial. The only thing I would change is the receptacle. Both of the receptacles should be "childproof ". They will have a "TR" stamped in the front of them. They are technically called Tamper Resistant receptacles. Otherwise, great job!