How to print multicolor Lithophanes using the Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle

[@TheHotrod03]

Thank you for answering my panic question I just had 10 hours into my print. I was freaking out that I was using the textured, plate. I thought it might make a big difference. The thought never occurred to me before I started the print. but I am relieved to know that it will not make a difference! Thanks!!

[@Lukis3D]

your welcome, glad that my video could help!

[@Dubtee]

You can also make a mosaic with several different plates, to make very large window-filling prints, similar to a stained glass window.

[@Botmatrix]

Definitely the information I was looking for, thank you!

[@Lukis3D]

Glad it was helpful!

[@braingrapes2754]

Fantastic!!!

[@Lukis3D]

Glad you like it!

[@carlfranz2046]

Excellent tutorial!

[@Lukis3D]

Thank you! Cheers👍🏼😁

[@mikekiske]

@@Lukis3D Hi, there. A question, here: if a buy a A1 Mini, which comes with the 0.4 nozzle, if I want to change to 0.2 nozzle, I need to change the hot end also or just the nozzle? Thanks, for the video. The litophane with the 0.2 is amazing, hope someday we get a 0.1 nozzle, if possible.

[@scubadoo7951]

This video was incredibly helpful! Thank you!

[@Lukis3D]

your welcome! Glad you liked it!

[@mikekiske]

@@Lukis3D Hi. Have you tried using the 0.4 nozzle with the 0.08 extra fine preset, or the 0.2 nozzle with the 0.06 high quality preset? Additionally, have you added the ironing feature and set it to very slow speeds overall? Thanks."

[@CreatorZone-LTB]

Hey nice video. 😊 Why is the layer height 0,12 when you print with the 0,4 nozzle? I do every time 0,1 layer height with both nozzles on my P1S and it takes no effekt to the yellow.

[@revodrvr]

I just got my x1c. Ordering the kit now.

[@Lukis3D]

great choice! Make sure to check out my X1C upgrade recommendations video so you know what else to order!😊💪🏼

[@Penguinishy]

My right ear really enjoyed this video.

[@Lukis3D]

what about yout left ear?😆

[@Penguinishy]

@@Lukis3D Couldnt say, your videos audio mix level was mostly R channel.

[@Lukis3D]

i see, thanks for letting me know! I’ll have my audio settings checked 👍🏼😁

[@davelordy]

CMYK is cyan, magenta, yellow and black ('key') . . . rather than white, to make CMYK work you would ideal add in black, black (or 'key') is not a true colour operation, traditionally it's just a very light overall exposure of the whole image, so it captures the overall tonality.

[@duppenthalerj]

Nice video, very useful comparisons, except one was missing; we didn't get to see the difference between smooth and textured plate alone. You printed the 0.2mm lithophane on a smooth plate, but then for the 0.4mm print you switched to the textured plate. Does anyone have any experience comparing just the smooth versus textured plate with no other changes? Thanks

[@christianbetz724]

Great Video, thank you!

[@Lukis3D]

thanks man!

[@MrHopeman93]

Nice Video! Why is the 0.2mm print significantly more yellow than the 0.4mm print?

[@the-bgrspot6997]

because he fucked up the layer height 0.2 nozzle was using 0.1 layer height 0.4 nozzle was using 0.12 layer height

[@CompletelyNormalPhenomenon]

@@the-bgrspot6997 yea terrible comparison lmao

[@carlocarvalho5288]

Great video! Amazing result! Is it possible to tell us speed settings? Thanks!

[@Lukis3D]

thanks man! I just used the standard setting on Bambustudio slicer😊

[@dizhu8220]

Using the exact same settings with my Bambu A1 Mini, I still had warping problems at the four corners. Any suggestions? Do you think setting up brims would be helpful?

[@Lukis3D]

have you cleaned your plate? try to wash it with dishsoap. It will help with adhesion. (if you touch the plate too much u’ll transfer grease from your hands to the plate) Also, avoid draft in your printing room, that‘ll also make your print warps.

[@tunapedia]

Thanks for the tutorial! But I really don't get the point of Lithophane prints. Why not just 2D print on quality photo paper and frame it? What am I missing?

[@realtrisk]

You've never seen one in real life, I'm guessing.

[@nickvarley8365]

I printed a nightlight for my inlaws of a sonogram of their baby. If I printed it on paper it wouldn't really have the same effect. its something they can keep forever and won't fade or be damaged by water

[@johnplump]

Do you leave all the other settings alone?

[@Lukis3D]

yes, only the ones that i’ve shown in the video. However, you can check out BambuLab’s new Lithophane generator. It generates the 3mf file and you don’t need to change anything there.

[@didis2candy]

i was printing with textured PEI plate and changed to bed temp at 45. and 0.2 nozzle but somehow it warped and end up having a blob all over hotend.(ordering new parts). the only thing i didnt change is the filament setting (under print temperature, default is 65 ) could that be the problem?

[@Lukis3D]

I set mine to 50deg C, and it works fine. Did you clean your plate? it sounds like the plate isnt clean so the adhesion is poor, so the nozzle picks up the filament and ends up with blobs. I would wash the plate with dishsoap once in a while, and avoid touching your plate as much as you can.

[@roberto3261]

Something didn't go as planned. The plate is quite thick, which is blocking the light. Despite setting it up according to the video instructions for my Bambu Lab P1S, I'm still unsure why it didn't work. Please any sugestions

[@Lukis3D]

yes the plate should be a bit thick but it shouldnt completely block the light. You can also remove the diffusor plate so more light shines through. have you tried turning off the light of your room? the lithophane looks best when you have it turned on in a dark room

[@Harb40]

Say I want to do a print where the photo is of a military helicopter in flight. The helicopter is shades of grey, the sky is light blue, clouds white, etc. I can substitute the filament colors to match the original photo colors to make it look more realistic correct or do I stick with the CMYK setup. I am still just learning 3D print so need to ask.

[@Lukis3D]

hi there, you should just stick to CMYK colors if you‘re printing color lithophane. If you want just to print flat 2D picture in multicolor, you can use Hueforge (paid) or sticker maker from BambuLab (free).

[@Harb40]

@@Lukis3D Thanks

[@maorlyfpv]

hi where can I find the LED panel? very useful video thanks

[@Lukis3D]

you can buy it directly from BambuLab 😊

[@maorlyfpv]

Thanks

[@thelastengineer8633]

so lithophane only works with light? what if i use the cmyk for hueforge or is that a diffrent method?

[@jakehero4]

Lithophanes will only show when there is light behind them but in hueforge the picture will not need light to show the image

[@tonyt3484]

EXCELLENT video but could you please share your speed settings. THANKS!!!!

[@Lukis3D]

thank you so much! I just used the standard setting on Bambustudio slicer😊

[@tonyt3484]

@@Lukis3D Thank you!!!

[@slicedpage]

what if you just wanted to have the lithophane in black and white?

[@Lukis3D]

thats possible too. BambuLab is working on thier own lithophane generator at the moment but if you dont wanna wait, the same website i linked also has "black and white“ lithophane

[@1empyre1life]

Use a non-color lithophane maker on the same website he mentioned. It's a similar process, but there are video instructions on the website. The biggest difference is you print vertically.

[@sundance2005]

I have problems with the the edges coming loose and curling up at 50c.

[@Lukis3D]

which brand of filament do you use to print?

[@sundance2005]

@@Lukis3D Ziro and BBL. It seemed to be OK at 60c with no warping or corner lift.

[@punkreeperful]

Does it matter if you print vertically?

[@Lukis3D]

do you mean printing it standing up? i’ve never done it before, but i guess it will have more filament changes so it wouldn’t be cost effective.

[@dougpatterson4380]

Do you think ASA would work?

[@Lukis3D]

sorry, i havent printed with ASA before so i’m not sure.

[@user-jt5vm3mi1w]

I want to do it

[@SunriseSearcher]

Another video that is wrong....using the Bambu Lab wiki information wich is also wrong of course. When selecting the filament....select number 3 instead of number 1....Much more accurate colors...no yellowing effect!

[@mangareviewer821]

Just to make it more clear. Do you mean the select pallete in the website? We should select the 3d option you mean?

[@SunriseSearcher]

@@mangareviewer821 yes

[@AshLordCurry]

Thanks for the info, also another (better) way to tell it would have been "Selecting number 3 instead of number 1 when selecting filament would give more accurate colours with no yellowing effects."

[@Sebastian198910]

This comment is so confusing. What do you mean with „when selecting the filament“? Which number I input there depends on the order of my filament in the AMS the slot number has to match the proper color. If you screw up yellow and white it’s not the fault of the video or wiki

[@SunriseSearcher]

@@Sebastian198910 It has nothing to do with order. In the Select Pallete section, all filaments are in the same order....The difference is in the way the picture is composed by selecting either Esun or TrueBlend filament. Shades of ever color is different thats why the selection exists. And when using BambuLab filament, TrueBlend has the best results!

[@lorenkuhn3806]

You are too close to the microphone and/or the gain of the microphone is set too high.

[@Lukis3D]

thanks for the heads up! Will try turning down the gain next time 😄

[@moschidreamer]

For colour picture the laser printer was invented... Nice with printer but waste of filament only