Can't get your prints to stick? Try this

[@johnokeefe7577]

Purchased three of these after watching your review. I overbought. Zero PLA errors since switching to this plate. Thank you!

[@originaljws]

maybe i'm the one wierdo, but I actually preferred the first example of your logo with the clear CNC path look inside the letter faces.

[@Clough42]

Yeah... It's growing on me, too.

[@RC-fp1tl]

Not weird. I like it too

[@ManticorDrones]

Consider it a testament to a good print on a fine tuned printer - the hallmark of a true designer/engineer. Like weld marks or carbon fiber pattern.

[@bobweiram6321]

For a smooth flat finish, depending on the material, I brush the surface with a bit of acetone and laying it flat on a piece of glass for a few minutes.

[@ManticorDrones]

@ that sounds pretty sexy is the result uniform each time? And is it just a few light strokes of the brush just to get it visibly wet?

[@marty4286]

I was using the generic Aliexpress versions on 3 of my printers (A1, A1 Mini, K1) for a month before Bambu released theirs. If anyone wants one of those instead, the search term to use is "PEZ" or "Polyurea". Biqu's Cryogrip is also an option. Might as well get the Bambu version, because they're not more expensive than the generic, but it's the only way to get them for non-Bambu printers at the moment

[@loughkb]

None for Prusa printers yet.

[@michaels3003]

Thank you. This is good info. These build plates use polyurea coatings (similar to industrial coatings and those used for garage floors). One vendor says: "A must-have for Farmers" (sic).

[@dog2bert]

Any for the voron 350?

[@davelordy]

"Might as well get the Bambu version . . . " Yeah, but the Biqus are blue ! And blue looks cool, and I suspect once in place the cool new blue look will attract women and win the respect of work colleagues and the admiration of friends. I won't be surprised if I'm married by the end of the year. *I currently live alone.

[@SenyorDonGatoo]

@@davelordy Got the Cryoplate. Id preffer the gray bambu version but it wasn't available at the time. I can tell you that... my wife loves it.

[@MrGadgetgav]

OK, this was one of the videos (along with the Bambu Lab website sale) that convinced me to get the super tack plate. I had to wait a bit for it to come back into stock, but it arrived the other day and I was excited to try it with a tall PLA print. It was an absolute disaster. My X1C made more spaghetti in the first layer of that print than it's made the rest of the year I've had it. It turns out there's a bug that none of the reviewers who were sent free plates by Bambu thinks to mention. You have to turn off the build plate detection on the printer. This is a feature that's saved me on more than one occasion, either from printing directly onto the heater or from using the wrong type of plate for the filament. My printer is in the basement and I send prints from my office upstairs, so sometimes I've forgotten what's on the bed. It's not enough to just dismiss the warning that comes up with the super tack plate which says the plate was not detected. It seems that if you do that, there is some kind of bug which means the Z height is screwed up, hence nothing sticks to the super tack plate at all. One of the best things about the X1C compared to my old Ender 3 is that it "just works". The error detection and recover options are really robust and useful. Why you would have to disable one of the key ones to get this build plate to work is beyond me and not a compromise I'm willing to take. I've had plenty of good results with the Textured PEI plate and I regret buying into the hype around this plate. I can only hope that Bambu are working on fixing the Z height bug and the automatic detection of their most hyped plate to date. Until they do, mine is going back in the box.

[@fasfan]

I've had my P1S for almost a year. I have the textured PEI plate and have never used any glue or anything and have never had a problem with adhesion. PLA, PETG, PLA+... all seem to stick fine.

[@weinix10]

I can confirm that

[@fasfan]

@weinix10 you can confirm that I've never used glue on my build plate? Or did you mean that you have had the same experience? Lol

[@weinix10]

@@fasfan sorry I didn't express myself clearly, I mean of course that I had the same experience and never used glue on my textured pei plate haha

[@Timber-Wolf]

Same experience here. I regularly wash my plates with hot soapy water but that's all. Still have a bunch of free glue sticks (that came with the printers) unused. I'd still be interested in a supertack plate for the smoother surface texture. The Bambu Lab smooth PEI plate tends to be a bit hit or miss for me.

[@Gamer-nc8qp]

i have an x1c and petg stuck TOO well so i cooled down the bed temp

[@Bob-gc4rc]

Enjoying your content James. You mention having a buildup of glue stick on the bottom of your prints. Try folding up a paper towel, wetting it slightly and wiping the bed down after applying the glue stick. This dissolves the heavy layer and smooths it all out. I use a smooth PEI plate with about a 50% glue coverage before wiping and wash it if I can see old print "footprints" on it (or just wipe it again). I print mostly PETG. Hope this helps for you.

[@TomLovis]

I think I was just your 160.000 sub :D Awesome content and incredibly detailed research. This is what the community needs!

[@R_mix19]

Thank you for making this video. I have been surprised at the lack of videos for this product. I really appreciate that you made it short and simple and showed what kind of texture it leaves. Thank you.

[@michaels3003]

It does not impart any texture; right?

[@airheadbit1984]

Great information, I just got the A1 Mini for some tiny projects that need smooth plates. One thing I do after printing is stick the build plate/print into my freezer, 15 minutes later the parts and supports fall off. I had issues with warping while waiting on an enclosure, found Orca's 'Draft and Shield' feature solved that issue. I'm still shaking my head after your PPA-CF, 1/10° dryer.

[@erdemgenel_r]

I haven't had much trouble with Smooth or Texture plate except for prints that hold very little. But this plate can be used for difficult prints. Since I don't like a surface to look different, I generally prefer Smooth Plate. Thanks for the detailed review.

[@LordPhobos6502]

Your intro: If you're doing a whole video on hot plates, especially with a thumbnail of a print with that much overhang, then HECK YES. I'm here to learn, and you're entertaining as well 👍

[@sorehammer]

I've been using the Biqu CryoGrip for a few months and the Bambu textured pei plate never ever gets used since they are a game changer.

[@kaorukensi]

what temp are you using for the cryogrip? i alway had adhesive problem with cryogrip plate

[@cmcferin]

Just came to your channel and just wanted to compliment your content; great videography, great sound, and well curated content. Thank you!

[@michaelbraaten]

I just started using the super tack plate a couple days ago, mostly with PETG. It sticks too well at their stock setting of 70° (same as textured and smooth PEI), but since they list 45° as the ideal PLA temp on the super tack, I tried 60 for PETG which also stuck too well, so I set it to 55. I tried 50, but the corners of my print curled up, so I’ve left it at 55. But honestly it’s such a chore to remove prints from that plate, I prefer smooth PEI with Vision Miner NPA. Prints stick like nobody’s business, but release super easy. I try to only use it when I’m concerned about part adhesion, but it’s just so foolproof that I find myself using it more and more just to ensure perfect adhesion and easy print release.

[@geektoybox]

I’ve been using ones from SliceWorx for months now. They released plates like these ages ago. Lots of different plates for different printers too. Used it to print a ton of mini license plates for Maker Faire OC and 3DPrintopia. People were shocked to find out the fronts of their plates were the bottom layer.

[@NathanDavidDodd]

At timestamp 7:36 you can see (it appears) the sheet is lifting from the Heated bed. Usually indicating the magnets are not strong enough to overcome the part warping. They are not the only company to do this, but I guarantee they wont address it. But rather offer a sale. :) Nice vid though, keep 'em coming . Sorry to nitpick. You can check the flatness of the parts after to confirm.

[@dylanevans5644]

Yea, I spotted that too. You can get clips to overcome the issue.

[@NathanDavidDodd]

@dylanevans5644 agreed, but with clips you lose bed space and risk collision with the nozzle. And still will create an air gap between the magnetic area and the clip, if there is enough force, right?

[@dylanevans5644]

@@NathanDavidDodd Depends how strong the clips is! Most of those problems can be overcome by putting the clips in the right place. Certainly it's not a perfect solution, but it's just about the best compromise. You can find super thick, or even glass beds, but they have many compromises of their own.

[@elvinhaak]

I use regulair painterstape over the edges on my printers when this starts to happen. It starts to get more and more when the magnets get weaker because of the heating at higher temps. On some beds/printers you can not even go above 70-65 degrees before this starts to happen fast.

[@c0mputer]

That’s why I like the Smooth PEI plate. It’s thicker than the normal plates so hold to the magnets stronger. I used to get PC lifting the build plate off the magnet but not with the thicker Smooth PEI.

[@JCWren]

I print almost exclusively in PETG and have been using the engineering plate with zero issues. I wash it with warm water then put the liquid glue on it every so often, and have only had a couple bed adhesion issues when it's a really small footprint. In those rare cases setting up a larger brim takes care of it. I am interested in trying the Super Tack plate, so I think I will order one of those.

[@EpicBenjo]

I’m interested in that super tack. It’s sold out right now.

[@OhImKiCkiN]

I do the same with the engineering plate. The supertack is exceptional though. So glad I purchased it because I was contemplating it and 5 minutes after I ordered it was sold out. Still is.

[@GucciBodyBags]

I always hear about petg adhesion issues. I never use glue, i actually prefer a dirty plate because if its freshly cleaned, that PETG isnt letting go to nearly print breakage

[@OhImKiCkiN]

@@GucciBodyBags Depends on the plate really. What plate are you using?

[@nrdesign1991]

I was tempted to get it a week ago, but this video pushed me over.

[@kevinhenry61]

Got one last week and I must say it grips very well. Printed both Elegoo Rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF. Took a bit to get used to as it has actually ripped pieces off the bottom of two prints printed in the P1S. Will give it a test on the A1 with a large print as I was having warping issues with PLA. I think it will pass the test. I'm going to order a couple more once they are back in stock.

[@OG-ProfessorFarnsworth]

I’m always a bit confused by other people’s practices around bed adhesion. I’ve found clean textured pei to work fantastic with pla as long as it’s cleaned properly. And hairspray has worked great with petg in the past but I haven’t used it in awhile. I really want a g10 on steel sheet. I had g10 for my old cr10 and it worked great for everything I needed. Including flexibles and the texture is really nice.

[@erickowalchuk4818]

i have one from father i just love it i Accidentally put an brim with my print it left an scratch to make it right i will buy myself an replacement i have already told our father

[@jhawker2895]

Yes I just got it last week and I LOVE it .... Everything is awesome... Thanks for sharing ... Stay safe and well...

[@liamosterhout6538]

Would you recommend it if you have the smooth plate already?

[@jhawker2895]

@@liamosterhout6538 YES ... Great advance in 3D printing as far as I am concerned, but I have not fully tested it at this point. I will post any problems (if any) when encountered...

[@liamosterhout6538]

@@jhawker2895 thanks!

[@NWGR]

I've been tempted by all these new plates (bambu and biqu), but really I haven't had any issues with the gold textured PEI plates on my A1 and A1 mini printers. Just a quick wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before every print and everything sticks fine. I do only print with PLA, PETG and TPU though, but all of those have worked out fine.

[@Chilternflyer]

I've been printing PETG ever since it first came out (I used print ABS :-( ). PETG 80c bed all day. I never use glue or have adhesion issues.

[@bbrazen]

With PETG I mostly use the smooth PEI/HighTemp plate bare (clean with alcohol, no glue, etc) Same with the textured plate. Bed adhesion has always been excellent. In general if I have adhesion issues I don't put anything on and it always seem to be better.

[@JJFX-]

I even do the same with ASA/ABS, which is my primary material. The trick I found is using a dab of acetone on a microfiber cloth to clean smooth PEI instead of alcohol. I eventually noticed IPA can actually leave a slight residue which normally doesn't matter but with ABS the difference was night and day. Dawn soap/water is the next best option. I put WhamBam's PEX on my main printer a couple of months ago and also liking a lot. Similar to PEI but seems even easier to work with. Oddly, only time I had to resort to a little hairspray/glue recently was to stop some TPU covers from slightly lifting the corners.

[@geoffreyhowells7290]

While I can't come close to justifying a K2 Plus, this looks like an awesome upgrade for the P1P. Bambu Lab's ingenuity has never ceased amaze me. Thanks for sharing this little marvel.

[@trivalentclan]

I use G10 plain, no glue stick, nothing. People first using G10 are concerned that their print will not come loose. No light sanding of the G10 plate is needed like some people think. Only problem I had was a slightly too low plate temperature when first printing PLA, just 5 or 10 degrees and my PLA prints stick very well (ABS used a higher plate temperature when printing and never was an issue). Only problem would be if i wanted to stop for a power outage and restart a print, as soon as the build plate temp drops enough for long enough the print comes loose. But as I have nothing set up for power failures or even filament runout that is not currently a problem for me.

[@kmcrafting4837]

Beat me to it! I use G10 on my V400 for PLA/PETG/PC-CF. I did sand mine with 220grit to break the factory surface. Have also had great experience with borosilicate glass.

[@paulpardee]

I started off with the textured pei build plate, but gave up on it for the most part after I couldn't get ASA to stick to it even with a glue stick. I'm very much a fan of their smooth plate. Never had any adhesion issues with it. Plus, using a plastic razor blade to scrape up the calibration/purge lines is much more satisfying than on the textured plate.

[@Jokershadow696]

Use pla for first layer and no bed adhesion issues

[@jamesm3268]

You need the liquid glue not glue stick for asa. 110deg c and clean the plate with hot soapy water then a thin layer of the liquid glue. Print asa nearly exclusively with zero issue and no need for any brims @pailpardee.

[@JJFX-]

I mostly print ASA and textured plates are definitely not ideal. I don't even use glue anymore on my smooth plates but I found glue stick is just not very reliable with it. If need you glue I'd try a liquid glue or even cheap pump hairpray.

[@ChrisWalker-eo1tp]

vision miner on the engineering sheet every couple weeks and a quick wipe with ipa once in a while and have had great luck with asa and abs on the x1

[@thedoujinguynico7315]

I remember when i got my fist printer a elegoo neptune 3 I printed a box that took up the entire space of the printer I didn't have any enclosure or mutch experience that thing took 7 days to print and ( 2 halvs eatch taking up the entire volume) i got a perfect print the first time and now that i have another printer and ive had it por a long time i know that i had gotten insanely lucky

[@charleswhalen7290]

New badge looks remarkably similar to the one on the back of a 1984 rabbit GTI

[@phoolb7326]

OK I learned something. I had been thinking that I always printed PETG at 75C on my Prusa MK4's (textured powder coated plate) and when you said you couldn't always get your prints to stick I was about to really question what you were doing wrong as I never get failures and I really respect your design processes. A quick check and surprise I'm printing at 90C. I'm thinking that Prusa must have changed the default behind my back. LOL.

[@mkosmo]

To help with the build plate alignment on the X1, I've been using a Shifty build plate guide (a model that snaps onto the alignment lug and does magic to align the plate). I've gone since launch without one until last month... now I wonder how I lived without it.

[@boggisthecat]

I second using a snap-on guide. Makes it much easier to get the plate aligned correctly. Another thing Bambu should be adding to their list for improvements to future printers.

[@Packman332]

Third-ed! I've had my P1S since around February and I just found out about the Shifty like 3 weeks ago and it is so amazingly convenient. I hardly EVER have to reposition the plate anymore. I'm kind of surprised there wasn't anything like that or alignment tabs from the get go. It's such a common issue.

[@ChenkunNie]

Interesting, I never had any issue printing petg onto textured pei after dialling the settings in, and for Bambu machines I could even get away with generic settings.

[@robertparis5680]

I've got awesome levels of elephants foot AND warping Great adhesion though Probably due to printing in a cold garage on an A1. Finally killed my p1s extruder with Petg/pet-cf.

[@Prime_Nexus]

I was also having trouble with PETG adhesion with textured PEI, until I cranked up the bed temp to 80C, and now its working perfectly (on my horrifying UM2 clone). Maybe that's worth a try for when you want the texture.

[@emberprototypes]

The only plate you're missing is a custom Clough42 textured plate 😉 also I've found the engineering plate had better adhesion to Nylon but that's about the only time i would use it versus textured pei.

[@janlassen6101]

50% sugar and 50% water works very good. And if you let the object cool down on the bed it pops off by it self most of the times. Almost free.

[@michaels3003]

Does it smell like baking cookies?

[@AndrewAHayes]

Toffee Tack!

[@BeefIngot]

Except accounting for your time and effort

[@superskeg]

Ditto on sugar, it's the only thing I use. I love hearing the "tink" when the bed cools and the part releases.

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

0:23 The most masterful hand fan...

[@spambot7110]

2:34 i'm surprised you're having insufficient adhesion with PETG on PEI. I've ruined a smooth PEI build plate because the PETG stuck *too* well and peeled up the surface, i have to use textured to avoid this. i haven't finished the video so this new plate might make this a moot point, but you could try a less coarsely textured plate with PETG (or if you're willing to risk it, a smooth plate). one difference is that i'm using prusa, not bambu lab plates

[@eclipseslayer98]

I pretty much only print with PLA, but the creality glass plate with the self releasing coating has always worked BEAUTIFULLY for me. Granted, for smaller prints, it can have less adhesion if not properly cleaned and trammed, but It's never really been THAT much of an issue. Plus, I can usually just add a brim if it DOES become an issue for some reason. I've never really seen a need to get anything else for bed adhesion, but that's just my personal experience.

[@baraBober]

I have textured PEI plate, and I never had issues with PLA not sticking to it. I keep the bed temperature at 50C

[@alecubudulecu]

Try 30. And use a very sharp angle. This is where these shine. It’s same as the biqu frozen plate

[@VoodooChild_drums]

I have a A1 mini and print mostly with PLA basic and PETG-HF using the PEI plate. I wash the plate with dishsoap and a toothbrush once evry 5-10 prints and never had any issue of the part not sticking (mostly enclosures for various things) with the standard setup from the slicer. Even sometimes, some part are a bit too sticky.

[@matthewkenchapman]

If you're using the textured pei plate with PETG don't use glue. It sticks great but comes straight off with a slight flex. PETG sticks so well

[@ferrumignis]

I've had PETG stick so hard to textured PEI that I thought they might be permanently attached. When it finally got it off it took several chunks of the PEI off the plate.

[@whitebloodcell]

Great advice, except when you print with supports. Then glue would the only thing that prevents you from spending half an hour cleaning the plate from small PETG leftovers.

[@Krunkle78]

Once they get back in stock lol I was able to get one for my mini and live it! Great vid

[@AndrewAHayes]

I already have a large selection of build plates and cant say I have had any major issues with bed adhesion or warping, yeah I have had the odd part come loose but I managed to fix that with the next try. I still have some OG Coolplate stickers to get through also!

[@wacomtexas]

Great that it works, but I'm interested to know WHY this surface has more adhesion. Is it the material, or is there a special micro-texture, or is it something else?

[@Chris-14all]

I Always use 50°C for my PETG prints on my textured PEI Sheet. And it Sticks very well. I Print Most Times PETG, then PCTG on 80° and Sometimes PLA. I never used a glue Stick or Something else and I Clean the PEI two or three Times a year with soapy water only. I have a Sunlu S8 plus, an old 8bit CR10 clone. But the PEI Plate ist one from Energetic. And finally IT IS the cheapest ones of all those plates from known Labels. I am really surprised that gluestick or the recommended high bed temperatur is still such topic. Especially for PETG.

[@spanny52]

Didn't even make it to 4 minutes before my big mouth had to say this about glue residue. I use the vision miner stuff and just discovered that using a great fun takes away the white scurge. I'm so happy. ASA looks fantastic.

[@schmiddy8433]

For PETG on the textured PEI do not use any glue stick! PETG needs higher temperatures than you would expect and a perfectly clean PEI sheet, I used glue stick and I nearly threw away the plate because even after a regular wash in hot water and soap it wouldn't stick anymore. If you've ever used glue stick on the surface give it a very light pressure scrub with the scrub pad on the sponge and some 90%+ IPA. After that treatment at 75C i have perfect edges and corners on a 140x140mm product I make and the bottom face comes off with a brilliant sparkle and textured finish. I set my plates on their side in front of a fan and the part falls right off as soon as it's fully cooled. If my part is going edge to edge I bump it up to 80C and have zero issues. If i have any sticking issues at all it's from hand oils, i just give a quick microfiber IPA wipe and it's back to sticking perfect again.

[@BeefIngot]

I got the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier purely because it can be wiped down with rubbing alcohol. It doesn't have the lower bed temps, and isn't quite as sticky (though somewhat more sticky than any other plate I've used, textured included). The material seems softer at least with the cleaning area where the nozzle scrapes, so maybe it'll have a shorter shelf life but so far so good and I'm exited for this new wave of much better plates.This version also works with a wider variety of filaments.

[@sahhull]

Yes.... I use a flat steel plate and PVA glue. Sometimes they stick too well and I have to soak the plate and glue in water to get the parts off the plate

[@HELPD3SK]

How many heat cycles before the coating starts to degrade and you have lower adhesion?

[@Phiz787]

I use Lightyear G10 (garolite) plates with PPA-CF and PA6-CF. PPA-CF doesn't need any kind of adhesive on that plate and it keeps a perfectly flat bottom.

[@timmturner]

I've been using an FR4 rated sheet of G10 from McMaster Carr for years and print all sorts of materials all without any issues. I only wash it with dishwashing detergent every now and then since 92% IPA leaves a residue and negatively affects bed adhesion.

[@Gr8Success]

Its amazing how far we came along in terms of build plates on FFF 3d printers ! i recently upgraded my printrbot metal bed from Glass to PEI for PET filament . if on the glass plate i always needed glue to have the print stick on the PEI texture plate i don't use any glue ! Really curious about this Bambu Lab SuperTack ! you mention it works well with PETG but what about PET ?

[@DanielLopez-up6os]

The Qibi Glacier and frost something? Alre also very gret adhesion wise.

[@odditythreeD]

I feel like every few years we get a 3D Printer company having a go with a PEX/PEZ build plate under a fancy name and every few years it vanishes when people realise they'd rather have one failure in 100 prints than spending three days removing that tiny bit of filament that has inexplicably bonded to the plate - That and it's not "go to" as Bambu seem to be calling it, you can't reliably use it for PA12, PC or most other materials that hate that coating - It's GREAT for PLA - nothing else except maybe PETG. It's always better to have the print bed specialised for the material, there is no one size fits all. Flashforge went 8 years shipping printers with textured PEZ because for a very long time they were considered the go to for beginner printers, even they have stopped shipping it. I don't know how long you've been printing for but there used to be a certain tape we all printed on coated in PEZ, when was the last time someone printed on tape - it really is a blast from the past. There really is a good reason every printer comes with a PEI sheet now

[@TMS5100]

I noticed this also. People don't realize the PEX/PEZ fad has come and gone several times already. G10 is a better all rounder print surface.

[@JJFX-]

I'm using whambam's smooth PEX right now and it has been great for ASA/ABS but I don't tend to have issues with smooth PEI either. I rarely use glue unless it's a really sketchy geometry.

[@christophrothert4340]

hmm, ok, im only six weeks into 3D-printing, but having printed around 250hrs with pla and petg, even bedfilling prints with petg I really had no adhesions issues. with the textured PEI plate and an OEM smooth and textured plate. It sticks very well without any use of glue. Especially PETG with a big print needs to be cool to remove it from the textured plate. So I don't see a use for a supertack plate from bambu or frostbite or glacier from biqu.

[@VoxelWorks3D]

The new Bambu Lab Cool Plate SuperTack has revolutionized 3D printing for our organization. Print failures have significantly decreased; now, issues only arise from user errors, such as leaving objects on the build plate or filament jams at the spool. The enhanced adhesion and reliability of this plate have streamlined our workflow-highly recommended! That said, it does introduce a new challenge: it can be extremely difficult at times to get the item’s edge to release from the build plate. Once you manage to lift a corner, it still takes considerable effort to pull the print loose, especially with large surface area contact. But honestly, I’d take this over print failures any day! Seriously though, since having this plate for about 10 days, I’ve had one print failure-that’s right, just one failure across multiple machines all running the new plate. Incredible!

[@BrickEngines]

or just consider 3d lack, it works with pretty much every filament even carbon fiber nylon

[@Rob_65]

Damn, now I want one of these Bambu Coolplate SuperTack buildplates. Guess that means I need to buy a Bambu Coolplate SuperTack compatible 3D printer too 🤭Good thing that Corporate Greed Day (I mean Black Friday) is 2 days ago so I still have 363 days to think about this 😁

[@CritterRacing]

Ordered thanks.

[@tehhamstah]

I disagree about the engineering plate. It's my go-to plate for ASA and ABS, because it works incredibly well with both. As for your trouble with glue, I highly recommend spreading your glue on with a couple sprays of IPA. The glue dissolves in IPA, so if you apply a few swipes and spray it with IPA and wipe down, you get a super thin perfect layer of glue that is much easier to work with and leaves much less residue.

[@reedxuk]

Fully agree with you about the Engineering plate. I almost exclusively print ASA (100 degrees bed temp and no glue) and TPU (generic TPU profile). I have no issues that weren't of my own making. I'll need to find a good replacement for the engineering plate now it's been discontinued.

[@0ADVISOR0]

For my PLA prints, I use the stock X1C cold plate. To drastically improve adhesion, I did something that worked wonders for me. Here's the process: Clean the plate with water to remove surface dust and debris. The trick: I rubbed the plate down with silicon carbide powder + water by creating a slurry (around 2000 grit). This step made all the difference, even restoring adhesion after handling the plate with oily fingers or using poor-quality isopropyl alcohol. This method worked so well that it made my adhesion way better than stock. I shared this tip on the 3D printing subreddit, but the post was removed for being flagged as a "potentially hazardous tutorial." Oh well.... Damn mods.

[@TheOneAndOnlySatan]

Your printer will have less vibration if you pour it in concrete.

[@0ADVISOR0]

@@TheOneAndOnlySatan lol?

[@boggisthecat]

Interesting. I literally just ordered one of these plates. Looked like it could work well, and save a bit of money on heating the plate.

[@reyalPRON]

;) jep, can proudly say i have a profile for flashforge "standard" petg and a printerprofile for those cheap pey sheet. i just use 99% iso and fresh paper towel (lint free type) every 8-12 printhours. it sticks so good that i have to wait for the plate to cool to 35-40c before it must be flexed off. i have have a few fails while dailing in the temps where it ripped the surface with it! running this setup for about 400 hours now with 0 problem. it stick so good i can swing the model and plate around even with big models with small surface contact ;) the temp is 80c for smooth pei in the slicer and 260c firstlayer @ 33/44 mms. enjoy the fruits of my labor pls

[@PurpleCat3D]

3 bambu p1s and never used glue or adhesive on smooth or textured pei plates

[@sundance2005]

How does this compart with BIQU CryoGrip or are the basically the same technology?

[@mabmachine]

My P1S hasn't even arrived yet and I have another accessory to buy. These are currently on back order.

[@KanielD]

I have been using the BTT cold plate since release, it’s been a game changer. Small parts stick too well though

[@omerozbekoff]

Using the btt cryogrip which is similar and no more glue needed.

[@sjtonic]

Thanks for the review. Recently I had some issues with adhesion to a textured plate and had to crank temperature up and play with enormous brim. I already ordered a smooth PEI plate. If it doesn't help will switch to this SuperTack.

[@conorstewart2214]

My goto plates have been the cool plate when I need PLA with as smooth as possible bottom surface or tiny parts (although this new plate looks better), the textured PEI plate for most of my printing (PLA, PETG) because it doesn't need glue. But then for most other filaments I just use the engineering plate, it with some glue stick has worked for pretty much all filaments I have tried, nylon, PET, PC, even some PP. If the engineering plate doesn't work then I will generally try the high temp plate but I don't like it because it is just a thin sticker. I am really considering getting the new supertack plate and the smooth PEI plate though because they will probably solve all my complaints about the current plates, like the cool plate needing glue and the high temp plate just being a thin sticker.

[@Andrew_070]

Bought two of these the second I saw something about it and I can articulate the same thing, the adhesion is just unmatched and incredible but a little too much sometimes, sorta depends on preference but it’s my go-to plate now for my mini and P1S

[@dfloyd888]

Bought the plate a couple weeks ago. Definitely worth having for my round of PLA models, although I'm not really pushing things by making enclosures.

[@WoLpH]

For me generally (all types of prints) it's textured for PETG and smooth for PLA. I hardly ever use any other filaments though so I'm perhaps no the best example. I do have misprints ocasionally but not too often.

[@hotfix7387]

PLA sticks like whoa. I would say too well because sometimes I feel like I am going to break a print trying to pry it off when I print small things like Zou3D models. I had a friend tell me to stick it in the freezer to get it to release those little models and in my experience that does not help. I'm actually looking forward to when my plate gets a little worn in where it sticks less well. FYI I have had small PETG models lift on corners, even at 80c, on my A1 using this plate. My X1C doesn't have this problem with this plate so there is still an issue with open air bed slingers and PETG which I have come to understand is a thing with my A1. Don't forget you aren't supposed to use IPA or any chemicals on the plate. Just soap and water occasionally.

[@Makeringedients]

My main gripe with bambu textured pei buildplates or others like the biqu cryogrip (I use both) is not adhesion. It is the thickness of the spring steel. I print plenty of large parts that has perfect adhesion but the plate still bends around the outer edge due to being too flimsy. The magnetic force is not enough. For more damanding tool type prints I have been forced to glue shape cut plates to the underside of bambu buildplates to avoid warping. I am surprised thicker buildplates never seem to be on the table. I have at least googled for it many times in the past.

[@Fantasy_Room]

3DLac solved all of my adhesion problems.

[@matsuwesty2]

Have you tried the new plate with ASA? Just wondering how it would do.

[@rednwhitecooper]

I’m pretty happy with the supertack plate so far. I still had curling with PLA before I washed it with Dawn. The high temp plate is still my go-to for smooth surfaces. If you wash the high temp plate with Dawn and scrub it with a red Scotchbrite pad while it’s soapy, it has an almost 100% success rate for me. Bambu says you can sand the plate with 600 grit to increase adhesion but it’s not really noted anywhere aside from a single line of text at the bottom of the store page for the build plate. I’m glad I’m not alone in having trouble positioning it. It feels like it’s almost too wide to fit between the locating pins in the X1C.

[@ferrumignis]

Dish soap and scotchbrite has never failed me when I've had PEI adhesion issues.

[@tsewja]

I have a very large printing job i plan to use all bambu filament ill use your link to buy them from now on hope you get some lol planning to get over $2k

[@AndrewAHayes]

Why not purchase the Polymaker, it is the exact same filament but cheaper!

[@BeefIngot]

That sounds like a recipe for a mangled plate with spring steel. Why not look up the alternatives like biqus cryogrip series that has various sizes

[@i00Productions]

Yea - I purchased this and it is insane ... reasonable with PLA - but I printed some PETG on there and couldn't get it off without ripping the bottom layers off the model!

[@TeslaNick2]

I coated my PEI plate in watered down PVA (left to dry) the other day in order to get light weight PLA to stick. It's PITA and just won't stick otherwise.

[@llogic2011]

Every try G10 plates for nylon?

[@DyoGTS]

Apparently it is the same as Cryogrip, but at a cheaper price which is nice to see

[@gsdtdeaux7]

Im a firm believer in cleaning is key! And dawn is NOT it. I use fast orange mechanics soap with pumice and an old toothbrush. Scrub the plate with the soap and brush without water. Then clean with hot water, as hot as your water heater can do. And you can instantly feel it with your hands. I haven’t used glue since and have never had one come undone. Edit: i forgot to add. Let the plate cool makes a HUGE difference when removing. I freaking love the engineering plate. But i would like to try this bc id like an extra plate

[@HillbillyBassets]

I haven't tried the Bambu plate. However, I do reviews on Amazon for new products which Amazon provides. I recently received a build plate for an A1 Mini that looks and works like the Bambu plate. It has the brand name Yoopai and is called their Epoxy Resin plate. It too is super sticky, infact at times too sticky. After seeing the Bambu plate I started printing the Yoopai with the Super Tack settings and have had great success. The A1 Mini plate is $9.99. I bought the same plate for my P1S and both have become my go to plates. I have only used them with Bambu PLA Basic but really like the results. The texture of the plates sounds much the same, and the Yoopai plate is also difficult to place correctly on my P1S. If anyone does a comparison I would like to hear their thoughts.

[@thegrumpygamer3081]

Hah, I do reviews on Amazon for products as well in the UK, just put it in my wish list as it's only available as a USA import at the moment. Fingers crossed 😉

[@JJFX-]

Out of curiosity how often have you given 1-2 star reviews to free products?

[@thegrumpygamer3081]

@@JJFX- A few times actually as they have been really bad, I had a power bank and the battery swelled and cracked the case, and a few items that have fallen apart after first use. 4 is my normal rating, 5 if it's really good quality and the price is OK and 3 if it's OK quality wise but is not quite what the description says it is, like today, a well made ratcheting screwdriver that does not actually ratchet. Not sure if it's the same in the USA but I'm amazed that some reviewers give 5 stars in every review even though it's a POS and some that obviously have not used the item as they get so many things wrong, and don't get me started on the 5 word reviews.🤬

[@JJFX-]

@@thegrumpygamer3081 Glad to hear it. I'm asking because I've grown so tired of Amazon and how easily listings and reviews still get manipulated. I rarely see free product reviewers leave more than an occasional critical review so I'm curious if you think doing that frequently would affect being in the program or how often they send products.

[@bryceridesbikes]

I’ve been doing some multicolor coasters using a dual color silk pla for the accent color. I’m a big fan of the textured plate for this. The texture gives little peaks and valleys that show off the dual color really well.

[@Churchys_adventures]

Im really enjoying this latest character arc that you are developing through the last few videos, much more sarcastic and seemingly fed up with the "armchair experts " 😂😂 Once again great video! Thankyou

[@olligesd9343]

I use the bambu smooth PEI plate with Vision Miner adhesive. It works like a champ, I have to re-apply after about 3-4 prints, and never have adhesion issues.

[@timmturner]

G10 and done

[@dougingraham5807]

This supertac plate currently does not work with the X1C. The X1 cant read the code on the plate and the printer throws an error. Not sure why it can't read it, maybe it needs an update in order to understand the code but I suspect the problem is that the printing on the plate does not have enough contrast with the coating. During the time when the error pops up and you tell it to ignore the error the nozzle oozes some plastic and the printer does not put down the first layer properly. And it lifts and you get spaghetti. I have read that you can turn off the plate detection but I don't have any desire to do that. I paid extra for this printer to help keep me from making mistakes. I suspect that this is only a problem on the X1C because none of the other models verify that the plate is what you specified when you sliced it. My printer came with the gold textured plate which is fantastic! I also have the smooth plate which is currently my favorite. I have been looking for the discontinued cool plate and engineering plates because I have a friend who likes both of them. Both of us get this build plate ID error with the supertac plate and it also appears to be a common issue on the facebook group.

[@beatsandbricks]

Same thing just happened to me. I thought I would be able to just use the plate and select it in the slicer and all would be good, but the same failure occurred. After doing a search on the Bambu wiki, it specifically says you have to turn off build plate detection for the X1C or failure will occur. That would have been good to know before purchasing it, but that info is near the way bottom of the product page so my fault for not catching that.

[@michaelhoffmann2949]

Same here - from what I have read in the 3d communities, it is a bug in the X1 firmware - hopefully they will fix it ... eventually

[@thegrumpygamer3081]

Not in stock in the UK, been waiting for an email notification for a few weeks now.

[@JakJakku]

I used to go for the high temp smooth PEI plate for PLA, textured (black) PEI for PETG and TPU, engineering plate with liquid glue for ABS/ASA. And the old cool plate with liquid glue for particularly demanding PLA prints. Now I just print it all on the textured (gold) PEI plate, PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, no glue. And if I worry about a corner prone to curling, I add mouse ear brims. I really think of it as the one plate to rule them all, but I might pick up a supertack plate next time I order.

[@frankiemagic13]

does this wprk on neptune 4

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

That looks super interesting. I remember years ago when LocBuild made a super adhesive bed for 3D Printers. For parts that had low bed contact - great. For large stuff like your model, it fused to the bed. I’m looking forward to trying g that plate on my two A1’s

[@jzagaja]

Bed adhesion is one thing but then supports will brake if large part. The solution is to use cold bed, put PETG plate 2mm like Vivak using double side tape and allow this plate to gradually bent. So I think that vacuum bed should be tested if allow slight bend using many small holes.

[@c0mputer]

I have the super tack in my cart, looking forward to trying it out.

[@nigeleaton5715]

That's very impressive! Thanks James. I hope I can track one down that will fit my Ender 3 S1 Pro, these look either a little too small or a little to large. I'm guessing that cutting one down isn't an option?