How To Pull Honda Codes Without a Scanner -EricTheCarGuy

[@GaryDelgado]

If you're at the junkyard an need a connector for this, pull the door card off a '90s-'00s Civic (and probably any Honda) or find one that someone has already torn apart. Right there affixed to the door will be the same connector, except it's colored gray, held in by a clip. Disconnect it from the harness, cut the wires a little long, and loop them. Or, for an extra clean look, de-pin one wire and insert the other's tail in its place. Now you have an OBD I Honda tool. You can test-fit the connection there at the junkyard and see that it'll snap right in to the service port. The part number for the Connector from Honda is 07PAZ-001010A. It's called SCS Service Connector.

[@ORbZ909]

This is how we learned how to take codes from cars in my high school auto class. Glad he taught us something like this. These Are mostly for older car that dont have the OBD II.

[@yveskc1]

Thank's EricTheCarGuy! You saved me a couple hundred dollars, i was able to read the code on my honda, it was telling me a bad O2 sensor, i followed your advices and with a bit of carb cleaner i cleaned the sensor ET VOILA! reset the check engine light, 600Km later and no more check engine light...

[@1liltigerette]

I don't know how I ended up here, aside from maybe checking out a jeep for my daughter. But I want to say, you have an incredible voice...like radio voice. No kidding...Awesome, calm, soothing. lol...really. Anyhow, would like to tell you that its great you are taking the time to get this info out there to folks who may need it. Obviously quite a few from the numbers. So thanks. As a female, and after having my car stolen from a dirt bag a few years back, nice to see some good guy mechanics.

[@diegopalomino1200]

Thanks Eric, I was able to find that connector and after jumping it I got a code 8 which was caused by the shift control solenoids being bad, it was easy to replace. You saved me lots dollars I am sure since transmissions shops are not cheap and I am sure they would say that I needed a transmission overhaul.

[@djblitz1985]

Thanks Ericthecarguy! I was looking for the blue clip to set my timing on my 2000 Honda CR-V and had ripped off the kick panel next to the blower motor on the right and didn't see any blue clips dangling like I've seen in another video of yours on setting the timing. I started to think the blue clip should be near where I plug in my ODB reader tool and noticed a blue clip there inserted into a blue holding slot and pulled it out of the like you did in this video. Mine was in the passenger side towards the center console. You're video tutorial confirmed I had the right blue clip! Thanks for this video!

[@martinlevi8612]

Erick thank you for this video, this new cars have modules computers and you learn how to fix it but we forget the old ones Thanks to your video I fix a 95 Honda accord today awesome

[@DinGroguDinDjarin]

Didnt know why my speedometer stopped working, tried this and got 17 which means bad Vehicle speed sensor. Changed my speed sensor and it works like a charm. Thanks you :D

[@AngeredKabar]

Just used a paperclip to diagnose a check engine light on my 95 Geo Prizm. Guy I bought it from told me he's had it come on several times for some minor issue with an oxygen sensor and it cost him $100 to have it diagnosed and reset. I did the same thing in my driveway in 5 minutes for the cost of a paper clip. :D

[@rb26dett32]

Hey, what kind of diagnostic software would you recommend for a small shop or DIY? Besides the OBD2 port scanner. I'm talking more about scopes and/or dealership worthy tools. Lately I've seen quite a few "cheap" tools coming out but I haven't bought any yet because I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on something that may end up being a paper weight. Also, most are only good for one make which doesn't help when I'm working on anything from Honda's to Porsche's. Thanks.

[@TheFrankerzzz]

Eric, I have a 1990 accord EX. I can’t seem to find this connector anywhere. Any idea where it is on this particular year/model? I’ve check the spots you mentioned. Thanks for the video.

[@highoctane500]

Just done a UK 99 Honda CR-V with this method. The R/H/D UK cars blue plug is on the passenger side (left) footwell near the centre console. It has 2 plugs plugged into a blue plastic holder - one is the 2 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I used the 2 pin plug for SRS and ABS codes, and it worked fine (SRS codes wont cycle, it flashes each code once then stops. Turn ign off and on, it will start again) There is also an SRS reset plug in the fuse box (yellow square plug with 2 green wires)

[@madcook1936]

hey Eric what year model Honda or Acura did you get that female connecter from i myself use a paper clip but i would love to have a female connecter great vid

[@SpikesBikeShed]

Thanks, Eric! My 1995 Civic EX has been throwing a CEL intermittently. Going to check it today. Keep up the good work!

[@CmdrGendoIkari]

The '87 CRX Si has the computer under one of the seats under the carpet (image in my memory says passenger side), which is where to look for the flashing LED. Just thought I'd throw that out there since I'm here to see how to do this on my buddy's late 90s Civic. Thanks Eric.

[@cherylcampos1117]

Thank you EricTheCarGuy!

[@jermainezey]

thanks eric i tried it today on my 95 honda accord lx v6 4door my abs light been on for bout 3 weeks now because every shop was trying to charge me any where from 65 to 80 bucks to read the code . i work on cars i just dont have a code reader . will i used what u say in the video i got my code it 48 which is rear left sensor . i will be going to the pull a part in the moring to get one

[@OneIdeaTooMany]

from memory, its called the SCS connector. I have a Honda s2000 and the Australian versions don't come with obd2 but the US versions do. you can definitely use a paper clip but because it's thinner it's better to back probe the SCS connector.

[@desmirage]

hi there - i have a 1994 honda accord wagon ex -- my check engine light recently came on -- watching your video and trying to determine if my connector will be on my non steering wheel side -- also wondering why the honda dealership charges well over $100 to do exactly what you're showing us all how to do. thank you so much for your help with this. p.s. no need to answer the honda dealership charge question. :)

[@capitanazoish]

I used your technique to get the codes I got 2278 I noticed its not listed on your page. I think its a bad O2 sensor. Is that correct? Thanks for all the great videos and info.

[@funkiwikid6106]

For New Zealand there's a big difference. The plug for bridging is a 2 pin plug similar to the one shown BUT first of all it's on the left side (passenger side for RH drive) and it's grey, not blue ! You will find it tucked behind the small plastic kick panel that's on the left side of your left foot if you're a seated passenger. You should be able to put your finger over the top of that panel and flick the wires out without having to take the panel off. From this point on, do exactly as the man in the video says.

[@rodcurray9975]

Erick, this is really a huge help, thank you! I have a question about this, as you instructed to only switch to ON mode and not to crank.. How do I do this method if my Check Engine Light only turns on when my car is running already? Thanks!

[@lloydmccown399]

Eric. My 1994 Honda Accord Wagon had a Master cylinder problem. I replaced the Master Cylinder and the speedometer started acting whacky and then quit along with the odometer. D4 keeps flashing. I saw your video and decided to check the codes. I got a 7 (TPS), 8 (TDC) and 14 (IAC or Bad ECM) and 17 (VSS) never came up. I let the codes cycle a few times to make sure I did not miss anything. Car runs fine just no speedo or odo Any direction you could point me toward?

[@Al_Swilling]

Thanks for the video (10 years later). What do you do, though, if a car doesn't store any codes but has issues that should cause codes to be stored? I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX, with a 2.3 liter, F23A1, 4 cylinder engine, Automatic Transmission that sat with the battery removed all winter and through our Southeastern "rainy season" because I didn't have a garage or carport to get the car out of the weather to work on it. When I parked it, it was cranking and running just fine, but the head gasket had blown between the #2 cylinder and the water jacket between the #2 & #3 cylinders, causing it to overheat. I finally got good weather long enough to change the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifolds, valve cover gasket and seals, etc. After doing the repair and making sure that the cam and balance shaft timing were correct, that all the electric connectors and sensors were connected, and all the bolts torqued to specs, I installed the freshly charged battery and cranked the engine. When I cranked the engine, of course it was a longer crank time than normal, because after months of sitting idle with no battery, the fuel pressure had dropped, and it took a little extra to get fuel to the fuel rail and injectors. When the engine started, though, it barely ran at first (just fast enough to keep the crank and cam turning), then as the engine RPMs increased, it went from normal idle speed to surging, high-then-low for a few minutes before settling into a normal idle with good acceleration when I pressed the accelerator pedal. After the idle settled down, I turned off the engine, waited a few seconds, and started it again. This time, as soon as I turned the key, the engine started, but again it was a very slow, very rough idle that quickly increased to normal idle RPM, with less surging, but surging nonetheless. Every time I start the engine, it's the same ritual--super slow idle, increase to normal idle speed, and surging followed by a calm down to normal idle speed. During the entire process, not a single trouble code was stored or pending when I checked, hoping to find some useful info. So, for me it's trial and error to pinpoint the cause of the rough idle and fix it. Did the car sitting without a battery for 6 months damage the sensors or the car's computer or memory?

[@frederickgarcia3901]

Hello and good day to you Erick. I tried to do the jumper thing to get the codes on my 1995 accord but nothing happened. The light did not blink. What do you think is the trouble on my car?

[@carlosz771]

Thanks for this! I replaced my MAP sensor today using these exact instructions without having to buy an expensive scanner.

[@brayanmartinez2923]

What code was it giving you bro ?

[@moisesperdomo4852]

Keep up the great work man. Couldn't have down it without you. Bro.

[@ChristopherSmith-tf4nr]

Had same problem with brake lights. One bolt under pedal forget the name of it but switch will pull right out. Mine wasn't switch itself was just sticking. Replaced small o-ring and now works fine. Willing to bet that's your problem.

[@brownpig1]

Thanks sooo much for this video!!! I just pulled my codes and i got a #1 & #43 on my '93 5spd Accord so i'm gonna get those O2 sensors checked! I think i had this a few years ago and if i recall the guy said there was more than 1 - i'm not sure. But whatever the case...hopefully it's not expensive. Thanks so much!

[@iamasmurf1122]

This was very helpfull , im in Australia working on a 1997 honda accord here the OBD2 port should have been behind the ashtray , however it wasnt so on right hand drives the blue connector is under the glovebox on the left hand side of the car , i bridged the connector read the codes , thankyou for your help

[@sentree9857]

I'd like to use this method to pull the abs code off of my 1997 honda del sol. However, the light does not come on initially when I start the car. It comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving and then will stay on until I turn the car off, then it'll repeat the process. Would I be able to use this method if I park the car with the engine running while the light is on? Or will it read the code anyway?

[@carlloftin2850]

Sentree did you ever find the answer to your question? I have the same issue?

[@togebeats5470]

I just learned how to do this the other day in my shop class. It's super awesome

[@dannilaser16]

Great video. Question: would this procedure work for 2006 -2011 Honda Civic Eric? Thanks for a great informative video.

[@drewb242]

I actually don't have a check engine light and decided to try this out for the hell of it. My check engine light stays solid on no blinking, however my SRS airbag light blinks repeatedly with no pattern. This is very useful by the way, thanks for the info.

[@ify.a7437]

Pls my Srs blinks too... Were you able to figure yours out..

[@rong2166]

It's called flash codes.Been around for ever and not a big deal pulling codes. But nothing tells you actually what the failed parts is.Ex..If it's a P0420 which is a b1 catalyst (Aka catalytic converter) it doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad converter. I'd recommend using caution when pulling codes or you'll end up just replacing parts and still end up at the dealer.

[@nino418]

91-95 acura legends have the connector attached to the ecu cover. (the plug is also grey) you need to pull up the carpet slightly to access it. (its under the passenger side floor near the firewall)

[@KelvinThompsonJr]

Thanks! Very helpful. Here's a little tip I'd like to pass on: Instead of trying to read both codes plus my flashing D4 light on the fly; I recorded it with my camera phone then sat in my combatable chair and played back the video over and over to make sure I got all the codes right.

[@ify.a7437]

😂😂... I think that's what am going to do... Cos I have tried to count twice now and not too sure if I got it right.

[@superb.3703]

This was awesome 👌🏾.....I actually found out for a 2002 honda civic you can jumper slots 4 and 9 on the OBD port for flash codes as well....I had 37 for my ABS, went to your website 😀 and found it but im still not sure which sensor this is the code: 37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN What does RL-IN mean?

[@UnapologeticIslam]

Thanks Eric... This will really help me on my newly acquired 92 Honda Civic EX.

[@MrPaneel]

That's why my OBD2 scanner didn't respond, it is an OBD1 protocol. Thanks You Eric.

[@EthanWood757]

How's it going Eric. I have a 93 del Sol si and all I see under the passenger side is a wide green 2 pin connector but no blue connector. Would this be it?

[@richarddebideen9870]

kool thanks Eric I have a Honda da7 and has this same old type method for retrieving the codes,would try this and see wat happens

[@sentree9857]

Very helpful info. One quick question. My del sol is obd2 and I did the paperclip method as shown in this video. For my abs i got 4 quick blinks pause and then 8 quick blinks. I did not get any slow blinks just two sets of quick blinks. I'm assuming this means 4-8 (rear left abs speed sensor) Am I correct?

[@pl4lsk8]

So where do i stick the metal clip in the thing? What number slots on the connector?

[@luisbetts9502]

Good video, hey eric, how you erase the srs codes for a 99 odyssey??

[@ricardosom7766]

Hi Erick the car guy. Hopefully you’ll read my message and answer my question after. Here’s my situation I have 1995 civic ex coupe. It has no engine light on, but I’ve been dealing idle surge problem going up and down so I wanted to see if the computer has any codes there. I did short for that terminal there and here’s what I got but can’t understand them. I get 3 fast ones first then 1 long one at the end. Is that 310, 31 or 13?? I don’t get it because it’s starts with the fast flashes first. Thank you for your help.

[@Ayeobe]

Mr Eric, the original PGM-FI ECU in the oldies, like the 3rd gen accord, is underthe drivers seat. That is the case in my car in particular, which is the 3rd gen accord EX-i/LX-i. I do recall the legend being under the passenger seat, though. Cool thing is, if you have an old OBD0 Honda and need to pull a code, theres likely a forum for you to ask the questions you need asked on.

[@jorgeruiz4970]

Hey Eric. Could you help me with my 2001 Honda Odyssey. It shifting from first gear to second gear like sudently, what do you think? May be shifter fails. If you can please I appreciate it. Thanks

[@armandodemichele1420]

Thanks Eric, love your videos. Does this also give codes to TCS, and for transmission problems for my 2003 Honda Odyssey?

[@keithm9927]

@rachel smith, it is likely a transmission shift sensor/solenoid. I had the same thing recently on my 94 accord ex and that fixed it.

[@indylmc]

So Eric - is there consumer grade scanner for the 1995 era Honda accord. As you already know my honda has a 2 wire and 3 wire connector. Any chance a ODB1 to ODB2 connector will allow it to work on the typical consumer grade OBD2 scanner tool?

[@sharanchakradhar]

yes, you made the video eons ago !! is their any fuse that should be there to activate this plug??

[@tubeDude48]

Do you pull the ABS fuse with the key ON or OFF?

[@capitanazoish]

i have a 99 civic brake lights dont work also horn and hazard lights dont work.. do u have some advise on how to fix it? i dont think its a bad fuse or relay. maybe something else

[@jbone2470]

While your in the fuse paneland your not sure which ABS fuse to pull why not just pull them all..Then u don't have to keep coming back and forth to pull a fuse.And it might even help clean any corrosion on the blades of fuse by pulling and reseating them..Great Tip eric..

[@Ahiles23]

Another great video. Easy to understand and helpful. Good job Eric!

[@flyingsneetch]

Hi! Thanks for the video! Any idea where to find this connector in a 2005 Civic? I have nothing like what you describe in any of the spots you mentioned. Pulled back the carpet, pulled back the cover on the underside of the passenger wheel well - nothing. Thanks!

[@jonnybottle]

Well played that man! This was exactly the problem I had. The ABS light was permanently on on my in-laws Civic EJ and it was due for its TÜV (MoT) test. Turned out to be left rear sensor. And you even show how to put the lamp out ;). TCS traction control system fuse is logical, because the front sensors also control the brakes to give the effect of a limited slip diff. I paid extra for that on a Passat I bought new in 1990. Worked well trying to get up slopes into car parks at ski-resort hotels ;).

[@graybermann]

Mate, thank you so much.. I have an old '99 Honda CR-V and I did what you said. Saved me hundreds of pounds... Lots of error codes all at once is not right! Turns out it was just "Low voltage" and no real problems. Re-set it and good as new... Thanks again. From England.

[@comradedad]

graybermann I’ve got a 2000 CRV and wondering about the location of the male connector. Mind telling where you found yours?

[@bunning63]

Had a 90 Vigor, RHD, so yeah the connector was on the left/passenger footwheel. Recall some years ago had the check light come on, put the paperclip across, read the code on the dash, off to the local selfhelp yard. Pulled the sensor, put it in all good for ten bucks! I was very pleased with myself at the time and the coin I saved, aaaah, simple times.

[@ray29291982]

nice video Eric. question for you. I have a 97 Accord and yesterday it rained very hard to the point where lot of the roads were flooded. I may have gone over some of those little too fast to get to work, but my check engine light did not come on at that time. I came out of work and started my car and check engine came on and flashed one. can you tell me what it means? Thank you....

[@bpiper122]

I agree with just getting a Scan Tool from Amazon. I bought one that adapts to USB and it works great! Hooked it up to my laptop, loaded codes, and cleared codes from laptop. No fuses to pull!

[@gc33]

Hi Eric... Hey I have a 99 acura/legend rl... It does not have an obd port under ashtray... And the blue plug has 3 pins not 2 like your video... Any ideas on how I should be able to do fault diagnosis?

[@miriamvivo4279]

1995 honda odyssey abs ob1 got a 28. Now will try srs lite that is on. Yellow connector drivers side. Muchas gracias eric.

[@likkaweyy]

@ericthecarguy I have a 94 accord, I was driving last night to the gas station, I was on the freeway and suddenly my check engine light came on I got to the gas station turned off my car fueled and when I turned it back on the light was no longer on. My question is can I still be able to pull codes even though the light ain't on? Thank You, Video Was Very Helpful, and informative.

[@apoctheory9175]

If it stays solid I'm good right ?

[@mzbiz22]

Hi Eric! I love your videos! I just did the paper clip test and received codes 91 and 28 but I can not find those codes on your site. Please advise. My check engine light stays on constantly and the car cuts off every so often even while driving and it is idling below 1.

[@MinTrinidad]

On Point. Saved me from going to the dealers and paying $50 for a read out.

[@Tunerdude94]

This was actually really helpful. Thank you Eric!

[@turbonitroso7]

Good info! On acura legends, the connector is gray-colored.

[@TheRealFrankWizza]

the connector to check the srs codes on that car is under the driverside dash. If you remove that bottom most panel, the connector is attached to it.

[@gastonglock7827]

tried this and the wire i tried to jump with turned bright orange and started smoking so i grabbed it and it branded my finger and thumb and melted through my floor mat into my carpet under. index finger and thumb both have a nike swish looking sign.

[@smartfeller1495]

Gaston Glock EricTheCarGuy assumes no responsibility for any propery damage or personal injury incurred as a result of information contained in this video.

[@michaelmittelsdorf]

Hahahaha!

[@spade0655]

Gaston Glock ...you had one job..ONE JOB!!!

[@laserray462]

Wrong connector dude - you shorted battery to ground

[@EPereda1995]

No you didn't

[@presinald]

Thanks for the helpful video, picking up a 2001 tomorrow. Never had a Honda but used to do the same type of thing on an ex's S10 from the late 80s. This might be silly but might just tape up an old guitar string to try this if a paper clip ends up too big lol.

[@GoodEnoughz]

hi Eric, if i have a problem but no check engine light, will i still have codes for thoses problems ? Or it as to be when the check engine is on... ? Maybe the led under the passenger side ? i got the main relay problem, car sometimes wont star i've followed your video on soudering the relay it worked problem on the main relay reapear...so sometimes 20 min till it start...when this relay works bad is it a signal to the fuel injection ? thanx n stay dirty ! integra93 rs automatic 305 000 km

[@Lsx865]

So never known to do on obd1. Just recently gotten another 1995 Honda Accord Ex Sedan (Favorite Year) Having issues with Vtec. Bench test vtec solenoid, test good. Took egr apart and cleaned, 2 valleys (passageways) completely blocked. Replaced the solenoid oil seal. Hopefully the scan will lead me to right direction....

[@Anthony_in_Bloomington_Indiana]

It's cool that you know how to do that, Eric. Some of the local auto parts stores here in Minneapolis and Saint Paul will do a code scan for free, but they also gave me and my friend Torleif a THREE PAGE printout of what the two trouble codes might mean! I figure they want people to buy one part after another, guessing what the trouble code means. On his 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan finding the trouble codes is easy. With the vehicle off, turn the key forward three times; trouble codes are displayed on the odoemeter and then it reads - Done. That is the only thing the Dodge engineers made easy with the Grand Caravan. It's been one problem after another with that thing. Whenever anyone asks me, "What's the most reliable brand of car?" I say, "Buy a Toyota."

[@rusaakk]

In my case, without bridging the connector, engine light will only stays on for a second like normal?? But when I got the connector bridged using paper clip, the engine light stays on without any blink. What does that mean? Mine is Accord 93, got the blue connector under the dash passenger side. I believe its the right connector.

[@ThrottleJunction]

rusaaKKMODS same thing happens with my 96 civic. Did you manage to figure it out?

[@JasonTylerRicci]

I'm getting a p1337 code (crank position sensor I believe) in my 1997 Acura 2.5 tl. I'm gonna try this as well to confirm the code is correct as my cheap OBD scanner is showing. Thanks.

[@bobbofly]

Long pulses are basically the "tens column" in mathmatical terms, & short pulses would be the "ones", if I'm understanding you correctly? In other words, A long pulse followed by four shorts would be a "14"? Edit: Never mind I watched further into the vid, & yeah, that'd be it.

[@adeum9i]

hello eric! I have a honda accord 1998-99 ex v.6 engine but my ABS light is on only not my engine light or anything else. if I follow this same procedure I can find the code just for the abs light right?

[@jgizzy]

Did you find out what code 79 meant? I can't find it anywhere other than on Prelude's it is 'ATTS control inhibited" which I am fairly certain the RL does not have (ATTS).

[@pnwjdm]

hello eric, do you know where on a harness i can find that female plug? thanks

[@izzys1715]

Does the blue connector need to actually be connected to something while not in use as in this video? Will it cause any issues with the vehicle if it is dangling solo?

[@GSXRedlined]

Nevermind I had a vtec ecu installed (p28) and I got a p06 ecu from a salvage yard. Worked like a charm and no more CEL! next up SRS replacement

[@MrGlendragon]

great video, will this work on a 2003 rover 25 I have this light on but the car runs like new with no problems and is also very good on fuel so there seams to be no problems apart from this annoying light

[@HighestRank]

If there's no inspection requiring it off, live with it.

[@jonsalcedo24]

hi eric, do you think it's safe to make and use that same tool you used for a different car? my car is a 1991 lancer. thanks

[@geramane5184]

I found the blue cable on my 2003 honda civic but its kinda bigger then the one you showed on the video? Is it still the right one?

[@terencegunundu]

Hi Eric to complete the ABS light reset on a Honda Fit via pulling the fuse, how do I go about it, ignition on or off what are the steps, Regards

[@RinaFrancisco]

Hi Eric! thanks for make this video! I found the connector, but it was disconnected from the female part. Is that a problem? Thanks!

[@williamburgess294]

Hey Eric... i have a ABS code but cant find the code that goes with it... but it flashes three times about 5 seconds apart and it a fast flash

[@jamesharris5933]

Hello, On my 2001 Honda civic you can check to see if all monitored emissions are completed by turning key to on position and if check eng goes out after 20secs and stays out you are good to go.If check eng light blinks five times you have a Incomplete. My question is this feature on all Honda after 1996 ?

[@davidjohnnelson5874]

Hi Eric I have 1994 to 1997 honda civic 1.5lsi I have the ABS light on I tried jumping the two pin connector and it does nothing it does not have a engine check light on just the ABS light what do you think might be wrong thank you ERIC

[@tycreech7171]

i love all your videos and they have all help BUT this time i ran into a problem when i pulled the OBDI codes it gave me vtec codes and i have a no vtec motor

[@gdb5444]

I just use a paper clip to jump the connector, works every time.

[@Yesh77777]

thanks for the tip. I used a paper clip. got the code and changed out a misfiring ignition coil. car runs smoothly. easy fix!

[@abraabracadabra2648]

is it possible the first digits are the short pulses? i have 1997 Honda Civic, after shorting the wires and switching on the first flashes i seen are 7 short pulses then followed by 1 long pulse... please advice ^_^

[@billcrowder5617]

Hey Eric, so I have a Honda Element. It starts only when the code reader is plugged in, and if it is pulled out the engine dies. Any ideas? I had it diagnosed and nothing is wrong with the immobilizer or the key...all is perfect, they say. It was suggested I just leave a code reader plugged in and drive it that way.

[@darronc5928]

Eric youreare the best when it comes electrical...great job!

[@sahmadi1000]

Thank you Eric. I am glad you are there for us. Please don't be shy to tell us about some useful diagnostic tools. Thanks

[@thebrianoconeer]

i have a civic 98 assembled in mexico, do you know if this is obd2? i just located the blue connectors but not the obd2 thanks for your videos