How To Push Film - How To Shoot Film Series Part 4

[@TonyWodarck]

Hit me with all your questions about pushing film!

[@wildernessandme1744]

So let's say I have Portra 400 loaded on camera. Should I set the ASA at 320 (on camera) and not at 400? Then meter the scene at 640 ISO and shoot the scene with whatever shutter speed and aperture the light meter gives me. Thanks.

[@TonyWodarck]

@@wildernessandme1744 If you want to shoot a roll of Portra 400 normal without pushing it. Put your meter on camera at 320. Shoot it however the light meter tells you. If you want to push your roll a stop because you want more contrast and saturation and/or you have less light to work with, put your meter at 640 and shoot the whole roll that way. If you do that though, you need to tell the lab that roll is +1 and needs to be Pushed One Stop. Hope that makes sense. Good luck!

[@wildernessandme1744]

@@TonyWodarck Thank you mate!

[@hondolanehaase6471]

Ok Mrs tony so I'll set my camera iso to 320 iso and then I'll meter at 640 for more saturation and contrast just add a plus one on my canister to the lab And is this the same concept you would use for the Kodak tri-x sir

[@84nomas]

Not really a question about pushing or pulling but a request. Can you do an explainer vid/tutorial about hyper focal distance and metering? I felt like you have the talent to explain it clearly

[@jakemico]

So glad I came back and watched this a 3rd time… I was shooting at 320 and about to send to the lab asking them to push 😅 Still learning. Only just picked up my first film camera after watching your videos and loving it. Thanks for all your lessons 🤙

[@TonyWodarck]

Rad! I love hearing that. Thanks for the comment. It’s why I started this channel so stokes me to hear someone getting inspired and going for it.

[@jakemico]

@@TonyWodarck please keep it up! There’s plenty of people talking about shooting on film but very few explain it as well as yourself. Hoping to use this method for the upcoming Goodwood Revival. Think with the vintage environment, classic cars and thousands of people all in period clothing they should come out how id like.

[@chasewilliams4770]

Tony, as always I love the photos and the videos are so helpful. I'm planning on shooting my first roll of 35mm this weekend while on vacation in Nashville. I want to meter my porta 400 or my Ilford HP5 to 640 iso and push 1 stop in development, like your video shows. However, on my Canon AE-1, my iso settings go 400, with two notches and then 800... I assume the two notches are 600 and 700, so how would I meter it to 640?

[@TonyWodarck]

Thanks so much for watching and for the kind words. The one closer to 800 is 640. No idea why but it is hahaha. Have fun and good luck!

[@zachpeabody]

This is a great series.. in my opinion for all skill levels, thank you for working on this. Cheers.

[@TonyWodarck]

Thanks so much! Glad you're enjoying it!

[@narteq]

Thank you very much Tony! Your info on film photography is very helpful for a film beginner like me! Great channel and content. Keep up the good work!

[@TonyWodarck]

Thanks so much!

[@EncoreAD7]

This is the best video to learn how to push film on KZbin. I finally get it. Thank you.

[@TonyWodarck]

Yay I love hearing that!!

[@elmowillgetu96]

i also go to Goodman! Awesome vid Tony😆

[@TonyWodarck]

Thanks so much. Love that place!!

[@juanm.lomeliphotography7799]

Goals!🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽 just purchased my first film camera

[@TonyWodarck]

Yessss. Have fun!

[@film35guy]

hi, i live in singapore and they do not know what im talking about if i put +1 on a film roll as the process of printing here is auto only and put through a machine. how can i get round this? what settings can i use to achieve the +1 look with portra 400 ??

[@TonyWodarck]

Keep searching for good labs. Chances are there is one that will push your film. It just means they’re leaving it in the developer longer. The labs you’re referring to just don’t want to do it cause their systems are automated. To achieve that look without actually pushing the film just add some contrast in post.

[@solarvision1431]

Hello I’m using Minolta hi Matic af2 Film camera if I’m using Kodak 400 and set my camera to iso 400 is that bad

[@TonyWodarck]

Nope that’s exactly what you should do!

[@solarvision1431]

Definitely appreciate you thank you great review page

[@oscarrodriguez1313]

I have a question that no one answers, so when I shoot 320 metered do I also set my camera to 320? I have a Pentax 67 it’ll only go down to 200 iso

[@TonyWodarck]

You have to set it on whatever you’re using to get your light meter reading. If you’re using your cameras meter you need to set that at 320. Just put it to the space between 400 and 200.

[@oscarrodriguez1313]

@@TonyWodarck thank you for responding, happy holidays

[@hannahdeal5778]

Hi! I am so confused. I am a digital wedding photographer dabbling in film and I need answers. When I shoot a low light reception I crank up my ISO to a HIGHER number (2000, etc.). You're saying with film- I overexpose by shooting at a LOWER number than the box speed (320 for 400). So is it opposite than the digital camera? Just trying to understand. Thanks!

[@TonyWodarck]

Hahaha no worries. Yes it’s confusing when you try and compare it to digital. The film you load chooses your iso for you. So for example if you put portra 400 in. Your iso is 400. Nothing you can really change other than “pushing your film” at the lab. Which means they leave it in the developer longer to try and get more midtones and highlights out of a dark negative. Hope that makes sense. The 320 vs 400 is just cheating the meter to give the film that extra bit of light since film loves light.

[@hannahdeal5778]

Ok! I've thought about it a while and I think I understand. What you're doing is telling the light meter there is only 320 ISO sensitivity. So it's going to give you settings for more light via your aperture and shutter speed.

[@TonyWodarck]

Correct!

[@TheNSM11]

Okay, so just to understand this the right way haha - hoping someone can help me out. Would and example of the correct way of pushing film being shooting let's say ilford 400 two stops overexposed at 1600 iso in camera, and then asking your lab to push it two stops when developing?

[@TonyWodarck]

Yes correct but it’s actually two stops unederexposed at 1600. You will have quite a bit of contrast but it should work alright. Matt Day shoots ilford hp5 all the time and pushes it 2 or 3 stops.

[@TheNSM11]

@@TonyWodarck ah yes of course, my bad - massive thanks for your reply! I’ll try it out with my next roll. And as many have already stated, it’s a really informative video! helps out both the complete film newcomer but also someone with a little more experience (as in the case of myself). And again, thanks for your reply

[@TheNSM11]

@@TonyWodarck Quick follow up question. In the case of pushing film, is it possible to use shutterspeeds to underexpose in the same way as one would stop down the ISO? As in the former example, would stopping down from 400 - 1600 in camera be the same as shooting something at 1/500th instead of 1/125th?

[@sarahmartin1533]

Can you push on a Contax t2 with it being automatic

[@TonyWodarck]

You can’t change the iso but you can use the exposure compensation to underexpose then push it in development if you want. I’ve done that.

[@sarahmartin1533]

@@TonyWodarck Would i overexpose by 1 on the camera and push by 1 in development?

[@bigbirdnsmallfry]

If I shooting at box rate (ie, shooting portrait 400 at 400 iso) can I still push it one stop in development? And what would my results look like?

[@TonyWodarck]

You can definitely do that. It will look similar to the results in this video. It would only be a half a stop difference of overexposure from my examples which film can handle pretty easily.

[@upload2see]

Thank you so much Tony. Now i understand.🙏 Do you know the nominal iso for ultramax 400? It is not on the mastin labs list. Greetings from Germany. ✌🏻

[@TonyWodarck]

Thanks!! I haven’t shot much ultramax. I’d try shooting it at 400 though for bold, bright colors without color casts. If overexposed, expect to see a yellow color cast, especially in skin tones.

[@upload2see]

@@TonyWodarck 👍🏻Thank you Tony, i will try it.

[@TonyWodarck]

Rad let me know how it goes

[@upload2see]

@@TonyWodarck Before I get it wrong, I ask: shoot at 400 and push 1 stop in lab? Or shoot at 800 and push 1 stop in lab? Or shoot at 400 and no push?

[@yaoberek6005]

hi Tony, I set the camera to aperture priority, then use iso 640 for the entire roll and tell the lab to +1? is that correct?

[@TonyWodarck]

Yeah if you’re using Portra 400 and want to shoot on aperture priority that’s correct.

[@84nomas]

if you rate the film 320 and push it 1 stop, its gets you to 160 ISO. right?

[@TonyWodarck]

Yes correct. I typically shoot portra 400 rated at 640 and pushed a stop. Or portra 400 rated at 320 and developed normally.

[@84nomas]

I thought when i rate portra 400 to 200 im pulling it a stop already. So if i rate at 200, am i underexposing it? Or It means im just making the film less sensitive to light, correct? I want to have the look of Hideaki Hamadas photos, how do i do it? Should i rate below box speed or over box speed?

[@TonyWodarck]

When you rate Portra 400 at 200 you are overexposing your film one stop. The pushing and pulling happens with the lab (while they process the negative). You aren’t changing the sensitivity of the film to light you are just giving it more light than it needs. To push Portra you would want to underexpose it a bit meaning meter it at 640 or 800 and have the lab push it a stop. They leave it in the developer longer and that helps bring out the highlights/midtones more and gives your film more contrast and allows you to shoot with a higher iso meaning with less light. Hideaki Hamadas photos don’t look pushed to me. Just really nice light with a medium format camera. I would ask them how they rate and process their film. I doubt they’re pushing it.

[@84nomas]

@@TonyWodarck thanks a lot Tony! You have great vids! No nonsense direct to the point, concise and clear. I Love your vids man!

[@84nomas]

@@TonyWodarck What scenario benefits most with pushing? Or also pulling? During photoshoot indoors, which is best, to push or to pull?

[@TonyWodarck]

When you’re in less light or indoors it’s better to push your film. It allows you to shoot when it’s darker. I’ve never pulled film. Film handles overexposing really well so I haven’t seen the need to pull film.

[@joeygmc07]

Wow... I’ve been doing it wrong the whole time lol so this is what I’ve been doing. Say i have Portra 800. I’ll rate it at 400. Shoot the roll at 400 then Develop it as if it was 800 still. Maybe that’s why i wasn’t getting those brighter tones.

[@TonyWodarck]

Portra 800 specifically likes light a bit more. Most people I know who shoot Portra 800 shoot it at 400 or even 200 and develop it normally. You’ll get some really great saturation and contrast. Give it a try! If you want to push Portra 800 a stop I would meter it at 800 and push it a stop in development. Let me know how it goes!

[@joeygmc07]

So maybe i was doing it right then. Idk why it’s a bit confusing to me lol. So what you said i have been doing. When your rating film at a lower speed and your camera has a meter inside. Would you shoot it with the middle in the middle or have the needle on the + side?

[@vicrumdudeman]

So I think what you want to do is rate 800 at 400 but when you go to develope tell them to push one stop. So they will leave it in the developer longer