The EASIEST way to Push/Pull Film!

[@TheMPhotography]

And also worth mention that if you push/pull you need to shoot the whole roll of film on that ISO setting.

[@GeoffreyEduard]

If you are actually pulling the development, yes you're definitely right. But I do the same, I always rate TriX or Portra lower then the actual box speed, which is basically a compensation for not metering for the shadows. And I do change the iso or exposure comp to bracket a shot that I really like. So when you don't pull the development, you can change your setting per frame.

[@punkrachmaninoff]

🧐 actually, this is not always true... personally i develop my b+w using a semi-stand process with a lower dilution ratio. in spite of the pervasive thinking on this subject, this method of development doesn't require that you change development times or shoot the whole roll at the same ASA/ISO setting to get consistent results. ✨🎞️📷

[@rcraigbateman]

So you cant use compensation?

[@dmitrywagstaff]

Thank you!

[@idrisrabdullah]

I would say this isn’t true I change my iso multiple times throughout shoots

[@woohoo0237]

I think it will be easier to digest by understanding the exposure triangle. Push to higher ISO = Underexposed and Pulling to lower ISO = Overexposed. Higher ISO allows a faster shutter speed/ smaller aperture setting. Lower ISO allows slower shutter speed/larger aperture. Besides the desire of shooting in particular shutter speed, using expired film or want to create a unique film look ( grains and tone) can also be the reason for doing pulling or pushing in film photography.

[@jameslane3846]

I disagree that pulling isn't needed. If you're shooting high contrast scenes and you don't want the high contrast then pull. If you need that tiny bit extra dynamic range, pull. If you want less grain, pull. I always pull Pan F+ 50 by a stop to get beautiful tonality and no grain for example

[@KingJvpes]

James Lane I’ve yet to try that! Thank you for this comment, I’ll be experimenting more in the future

[@zhongyao-sc1lj]

if I need deep sky and white cloud,pull or push?

[@Regzillaaa]

Push I believe.. more contrast.. darker colors.. underexpose it.. if you pull then the colors can be softer

[@GeoffreyEduard]

Hey man, great video again. But you forgot to mention one very important thing about pushing. The film is obviously not as sensitive as a film that is two stops more sensitive. And this will express itself in the low brightness regions like the darks and shadows. Those were simply not exposed enough to pull detail out of it. Dark stays dark. So generally it creates a much more contrasty look. And this is why pushing is not "seeing" in the dark. We're actually pulling detail from the mids en highlights. A side effect of film that is not being exposed correctly is grain, which can also be a desired effect like the contrasty look.

[@KaptainKerl]

it's funny how you explain pushing by using the term "pulling"

[@_parkphoto]

I think the one thing I was hung up on before watching this is that you gotta tell your developer that you pushed or pulled your film. That makes a LOT more sense now!

[@dlarge6502]

Its also useful if you have an old film. I once had a very very old roll of Kodak TMAX 1600 that after a bit of consideration and advice from my dad I pulled down to 800. Only 1 stop overexposure but it turned out great. Also if you are developing your own film yourself all you need to do is develop as the speed you pushed/pulled to according the the development times given for the developer. Pulling film usually has the effect of decreasing the appearance of grain, pushing increases it.

[@ColinBloodworth]

Testing out a roll pushed led me to only want to shoot that film pushed. I only want to shoot Tri-X at 800 or 1600 now. Film is such a great journey.

[@oblivion_007]

Bro.. I saw many videos about pushing and pulling film... And you gave the best explanation

[@litespeedga]

Love your videos! Most people on youtube love to hear their own voices past the point of overkill. You on the other hand get to the point with no bs or filler...keep the videos coming!

[@Jerry10939]

I try not to push film unless I have to. I try to have the right speed film for the shoot. I have more slow speed film like 100 or 125 . Some 400 and a roll or two of 3200. When I worked as a photographer I usually carried two cameras. One loaded with 125 speed B&W, the other with 400 B&W or Ektachrome slide film usually 100 speed. I also had a third backup camera that was full manual only.loaded with the primary film I needed for the shoot. Usually 125 speed. Only a few shoots did I need the 3200 speed film as my primary. Sometimes I went slower at 25 speed. But I didn’t pull the film. I used Agfa 25 at the time. You use that film for the extra fine grain. It has great tonal range and makes extra large prints. Poster size or even mural size pictures. It’s not just the speed and versatility but the grain. The faster the film the more grain. Sometimes you want a grainy effect. I didn’t worry about developing for contrast. I can control that post production with the photo paper uses. Paper like film is rated. But for contrast. The lower the number the lower the contrast. You also have multi-contrast paper that uses filters on the enlarger to adjust the contrast. So unless you want grain use the slowest speed film you can for the photo shoot.

[@davidmcrae4791]

Great explanation. Can't wait to try pushing my 400d cinestill

[@BLicMediaCo]

Man you went for the easiest way to describe this and you nailed it. Just discovered your channel today. Thanks a lot! Brand new to 35mm photography. Came from video background started on Hi-8. Picked up a Pentax K1000

[@maxtidmarsh8039]

Honestly love your content. I'm just getting into it and this is saving me so much stress. Thanks man appreciating this channel

[@bengreenbadger]

I generally pull HP5 by a stop in the studio, it gives me easier (flat) negatives to work with in the darkroom. You can always add contrast back to a scan or print in post.

[@davidlanford]

I just got a roll of TriX pan 400 back from lab that had expired in 02/2000. I metered it at 100 and had in developed at normal settings. It all came out very well.

[@KingJvpes]

What’s your favorite film to push?! 🎞

[@theoldcameraguy]

KingJvpes Tri-X!

[@edrikpedraja]

Ilford HP5

[@mmms0n]

Ilford HP5 🤟🏽

[@TonyWodarck]

Love this. Thanks for explaining it for everyone. I shoot all my Portra 400 pushed one stop.

[@crwn_munkz]

Another reason to push is to get faster shutter speeds in low light situations. And not have to use your lens wide open

[@issafilme]

Hey man, could you please explain a little bit more? I'm just starting to shoot my film at night!

[@crwn_munkz]

@@issafilme well pushing your film will trick your meter to think there is more light available therefore you would be able to shoot at faster shutter speed to avoid motion blur. I recommend pushing if you ar shooting concerts or events. Also your developing time will change depending on how many stops you push your film.

[@MrCh3]

@@crwn_munkz this made me even more confused... I thought that if you set to 1600 this is a setting where its more sensible to light than 400. So why does the camera underexposes, why does the camera think there's more light available with such high ISO where it's used for night shots? Not bashing your comment, i'm honestly curious and confused

[@derbert546]

@@MrCh3 Exactly what i was thinking

[@lea4777]

@@MrCh3 Setting your iso higher makes your camera assume you're using a more light sensitive film. Byou're not. Therefore with the faster shutter speed. Not enough light is let in. And the resulting images are underexposed.

[@lidahart3056]

I watched so many videos on pushing/pulling and this was the only one I understood, thank you so much!!

[@JacobCarlson]

Just pushed a roll of Ektar by 2 stops. I'm excited to see the results

[@Bulsie28]

Something you should also keep in mind if its your first time pushing film make sure you check in with your local camera shop before hand because they might not be able to push your type of film in the developing process. I was about to try it with my Cinestill 800t but fortunately I called them first to get their input and they informed me they could only push black and white due to technical constraints. So moral of the story: Give your developer a heads up or you might end up with some Extremely over/underexposed photos!

[@GiangHoang88888]

u mean every single film has different developing process

[@Bulsie28]

@@GiangHoang88888 well yes but that wasn’t what I was referring to. I just meant that not every developers machines can develop pushed film.

[@dominiclunn123]

Would really love if you could do this video again but with examples to show what the different levels of push/pull look like.

[@NextScamdemic]

I've read about people taking advantage of Portra 800's wide exposure latitude by shooting at 400, then _pushing_ one stop in development. I'm gonna try this. I can attest to Portra800's wide latitude with some flash photos I was probably overexposed by a couple stops and some detail was lost in the highlights but overall they came out beautifully saturated

[@user-ns3si7hw1t]

Flary Fox shoot 800 film at 400 it will be overexpose by 1 stop and you want to push it to make it brighter?

[@NextScamdemic]

Naphon Tonitiwong Portra 800 has that wide a latitude and loves overexposure.

[@scooterboy423]

The first time I pushed film, a Neopan Acros 100, I forgot to inform the developer that I pushed 2 stops. The results were very underexposed. Post processing with LR helped bring out the highlights and shadows but also resulted in very grainy pictures

[@skel2333]

So I have an Ilford fp4 plus (B&W ISO 125) and that ISO for me is so low I want to get more light into it, so I should shoot it like 50 Iso right? So my camera thinks the film is even less sensitive and my light meter guides me to overexpose, and when developed it'll have more light. In a nutshell if I want to simulate a more sensitive film for lower light conditions, I should pull to a lower ISO, and if I want to simulate a less sensitive film for conditions with a lot of light, push to a higher ISO right? Or am I dumb and should I do the complete opposite? Thank you for the video, but with some examples it'd be much easier to understand

[@James011]

I think I just found the Peter McKinnon of film photography 🙌🏼😅 a question: why do people push film to under expose? Why don’t you just shoot 400 stock on 400 iso/asa and then reduce the exposure compensation by 1 stop on your Minolta x700? Film newbie here and would appreciate the advice!

[@leyabou]

If I shoot a Superia 200 Film at 100 Iso (pull/overexposing it) do I need to tell the Lab about it? Or does this only apply for pushing film?

[@uandersonbrittes6526]

Ok..got it..when pushing the film by 2 stops we should tell the developers about that so we.dont have underexposed pics. But this should not happen when pulling, right? If i pull my film, shootting a 400 film as a 200 film I do want that extra brightness, more details in my shadows and probably a little bit more of grain. So if i pull there is no need to tell anything about it to the guy at the lab. Am I right?

[@stephond.photography9867]

I had to comeback to this one. I just shot a roll of Porta 400 behind Gold 200 without adjusting my ISO or Shutter. Ok one stop is no biggie. I’ll process it like regular

[@bicycleninja1685]

Starts at 1:29

[@Oh_snap_jane]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@loonathefoxgirl6375]

Best video on this. Thank you

[@Smarty24686]

Wish you would explain how to develop pushed/pulled color film

[@GregoryVeizades]

The same way as normal except you leave it in the developer longer. Check the manufacture TechSheets for the actual figures.

[@kyni87]

Thanks man 😍 I needed a practical explanation

[@randypipper92]

I wanted to see examples :(

[@KingJvpes]

Luis most of my black and white is pushed 2 stops!

[@TonyWodarck]

All the shots in my videos are Portra pushed one stop.

[@randypipper92]

@@KingJvpes is worth pushing a Superia Xtra 400 to 800 so I can shoot at night?

[@hi-ho7636]

@@TonyWodarck woah I saw your profile in 35mm film photography fb group page damn lol

[@annetteg4331]

Thank you man! Finally someone to explain what this means and why people do it.

[@erikleypoldt8275]

So is this the same as moving the exposure compensation dial to +1? And I leave it at 400 ISO?

[@gregorybissell4255]

Yes.

[@gregorybissell4255]

But you'll need to develop it longer, otherwise it's just underexposing your shots

[@Daguita]

Nice content, man! I'm learning also from the comments, haha! Your videos are a very good starting point for beginners to get the hang of many film photography concepts. Thanks!

[@077nme]

Thanks man, keep this videos coming.

[@Seiji504]

Can you add example photos of you actually push/pull the film

[@benjaminvleugels5609]

Pulling is useful in high contrast situations for instance if you are talking a photo inside by a window and want the outside also to not be blown out

[@prelopuig]

That's nice. You push to 1600 and later what do you do with the shutter speed? You have to lower it down? Thank you

[@hardene8888]

Awesome! Am planning to get a film camera but one step at a time haha ... if that day comes, i'll rewatch all your videos.

[@JoelDagang]

Super helpful, thanks!

[@floyd7820]

Can you push/pull by using the EV selector? Like keeping the film ISO but setting the EV +2/-2

[@tsuikit536]

I have the exact question too.

[@agataster2903]

did you find out the answer yet?

[@irfanomer5331]

What about the timing in C41 process?

[@blakeaghili4681]

So when we push in camera , should we tell the lab to pull ? I am confused 🤔

[@_dene_7]

Hey so when you mention always shooting portra 400 at 200 do you have the lab develop the film at 400 or 200. If at normal can you plz explain why 🙏🏽✌🏽

[@gottanikoncamera]

Good explanation. One thing though-you’ll want to consider pulling your film if you overexpose transparency film by as little as one stop given it’s decreased exposure latitude vs color print film, especially in the highlights.

[@andraejulian]

BIG HELP!!! THANK YOU SOMUCH!

[@Clubkabuki]

You explained it well!!!

[@kimobugman]

Would love to see some examples, I can't wrap my head around it... but I'm a newbie.

[@Station9.75]

Can you change your ISO mid roll or will that mess up the whole film strip?

[@cameronkhalfaniherman2492]

This was a great explanation of pushing and pulling film!

[@ArtOfBeingFaded]

this video is quite old but i hope i can still get an answer to my question. in the last section you talked about pulling and mentioned that you usually shoot 400 iso film on 200, do you need to implement that change in developing as well? or just shoot it at 200 even tho it’s 400 and treat it as a 400 development?

[@mdlassel]

his helped alot thanks dude

[@jarodgerber6611]

In what situations would you want to push film and do you also mainly pull film for expired film?

[@jamesonnorth]

If you can't get faster film and the entire roll is shot in that situation, you'd want to push. Kodak 3200 is really just 800 pushed I think

[@graham_white]

@@jamesonnorth correct its just portrayed 800 pushed 2 stops.

[@graham_white]

situations you would want to push film are 1. low light/ night so you don't have to shoot below 1/60th shutter handheld 2. a lot of people will push film to increase contrast in the film as well as the grain. this can also cause some color shifts. I recently accidentally shot a roll of porter 400 at 100 speed. so in development I just pushed it 2 stops to compensate. photos came out fine but are a little more grain than usually but nothing drastic. or if you only have 100 speed film and its super overcast outside you may want to push it a few stops so you don't have to worry about shutter speed and underexpose it. in comparison pulling film will do the opposite with color, contrast and shutter speeds. and generally you push expired film because overtime it deteriorates and requires more development to correct that.

[@NextScamdemic]

@@graham_white "I recently accidentally shot a roll of porter 400 at 100 speed. so in development I just pushed it 2 stops to compensate" Wouldn't you want to PULL it 2 stops in development to compensate? Was that a typo?

[@Dearmls777]

I started shooting a portra 400 at 100 iso by mistake, then i realized and changed it to 400 iso, does anyone know if the pictures i took at iso 100 will come out well if i develop the film as iso 400? 🤔

[@tomconnor9]

Dario Vm Yes they will come out but they will be 2 stops overexposed. But as it is Portra 400 which has a very good latitude they should be fine. Some people actually like to shoot colour film 1 or 2 stops over exposed because it gives a bright flat look. Just develop for 400. Always better to overexpose than underexpose.

[@graham_white]

they will be overexposed by 2 stops. its portra so it depending on how bright it shouldn't destroy the images because its very forgiving. but yeah there is no way around that.

[@redmondartwork]

3 stops would be 3200? Since i develop using monobath. 75degrees... 3.5 minutes. How much long would i have to leave it in the developer?

[@gkokra]

Clutch needed to watch this right about now

[@Tetra84]

So.. this setting for your camera meter to 1600 for +2 stops of 400 speed film is only if you’re shooting in Aperture Priority (A) mode correct? If you were shooting manual with 400 speed film pushed to 1600 you’d need to set your shutter speed to 1/2000 for sunny 16 correct? And if you were only shooting sunny 16 in manual mode, I’m guessing it would be irrelevant what your cameras iso meter was set to?

[@84nomas]

Does it make sense to rate portra400 at 200 and pushing it to 1 stop?

[@justinwadefitness]

What about shutter speed? Push film do you also have to compensate your shutter speed? So, for example, if you pushed 400 to 1600 would your shutter speed have to be 1/1600 ?

[@MTOPro]

Do you have to push the whole roll

[@takeapes11]

Hi, Since I only shoot manually and meter with an app and put my settings in for every shot . Do I have to set the pushed ISO on the ISO wheel? I am not sure what the wheel does actually. Thank you.

[@katerina9159]

What app do you use?

[@andreblum]

you don't have to. The only thing the iso wheel in your camera does is provide input to your built in light meter. If you do not use that built in light mater but use an external light meter (app) instead, and you manually adjust shutter speed and aperture based on that, your camera's iso setting can be ignored. When pulling, set the +1 stop on your external light meter (app).

[@James011]

Why don’t you just use exposure compensation on your Minolta and under expose a stop? Is is that different?

[@quentinsilver5491]

If I push it two stops do I also have to match my shutter speed? Or can I keep it at 500

[@wtfYou2be]

I shot at 400 and then midway through i pushed to 800. Can this still be developed right?

[@Zaki.the.grapher]

Hey, if I am developing my film myself and I push my iso, how best do you think I can go about it when developing

[@dustineagan3881]

Is it ok to push an ECN-2 film??

[@snapsbytoby]

When you overexpose film, do you need to develop to compensate?

[@jamaalnyc]

Great video. When you pull film IE shoot 400 film at 200 ISO do you need to inform your developer you made that adjustment?

[@standupstraight9691]

I think he said one stop was not necessary to worry about that.

[@josephsabio]

What’s the difference between pushing your film by one stop with the developers and pushing your film by one stop by lowering the iso setting on your camera? Hopefully that makes sense. Over exposing with developers vs over exposing in camera.

[@jabez1409]

Should I be pushing a BW film? Shooting HP5 400 on a Manual SLR. Or can I just continue on with my metering and shoot?

[@salamsam_]

urm i’m using lubitel camera. there is no setting for iso. how i gonna push my film?

[@armandonin8510]

what if you did it on a point and shoot like a contax t2 or fuji klasse?

[@martinmcchesney315]

So what about the cameras that don't have iso settings, for example my TLR ferrania elioflex has no iso settings 4 apperture settings and 4 shutter speeds I can't push film on this camera

[@yoly70perez]

I learning a lot with you tnanks

[@musicforplants]

when u overexposed from 400 to 200 iso , should u tell to the dev lamp that u overexposed or u just developing ur negs on 400 iso ? thanks :)

[@christofogui7036]

I don't seem to see many comments associated with compensation dials... should we develop at anything else than box speed if we add/subtract one, or two more stops of light? (for reference I use an Olympus OM-2n)

[@jasonthejman]

How do I set my meter if I overexpose by 1 stop? Let’s say i set my asa on my camera at 200 for a ultramax400/portra 400. Should i set my meter at 800? Not planning to pull it.

[@westcoastsingletrack7854]

I shot expired film 3200 my camera was 400 iso with 1.5 exposure should I even develope it

[@poomunique2811]

When you say you shoot portrar400 ar 200ISO. Does it mean that you would have to let the developer know as well?

[@erikdewilde7404]

Question, one you push it two stops do you have to develop the film like a lets say 1,600 iso film? This question because I develop my bw film myself at home. Thanks Erik

[@weird_person4018]

I have a question. Can I also only push one picture and then go back to let‘s say my normal 200 ISO because I shoot in other lightning? And would I also have to mention it to my developer?

[@TeipelFilms]

I am wondering if it makes a noticeable difference if you have your film pushed during development or if you just raise the exposure in Lightroom for example? I always geht the Scans back from the lab as a .tiff file which has a lot of latitude to work with, so I could easily raise the exposure by one stop and end up with the same result?!

[@MetallicBlue-u2t]

What happens if you push during shooting and develop it at box speed ?

[@key2adventure]

One more reason to push - the most important for me: I love the extra visible grain structure

[@pacoblanco678]

Late to the party but what happens when you push/pull while shooting but have the film developed at box speed?

[@thesquashedmango]

Can somebody help!! When he said he shoots Portra 400 at 200 to overexpose, during the developing process, are you supposed to tell them that you shot it at 200?

[@TonyWodarck]

No he just overexposes it by one stop I believe. So develop it regular. I prefer to shoot Portra 400 at 320. This is just a half stop overexposed. Mastin Labs has a really cool nominal iso speed chart and he recommends shooting Portra 400 at 320.: www.mastinlabs.com/photoism/articles/what-is-the-best-iso-for-different-films

[@thesquashedmango]

Tony Wodarck thank you!

[@GiangHoang88888]

so if i push one stops in my camera, i can shoot normally with the right metering meter

[@dlarge6502]

@kingjypes I'd love you to get hold of some infrared film, shoot it and develop it. Most older film SLR's will have special marks on the focus scale on the lens indicating the "correction" you need to apply when focusing. This is because infrared light focuses at a different focal point than visible light so you will see an out of focus image in camera but it will be in focus when developed as you only captured the IR light. Try shooting trees and people!

[@Bobbziee]

Editing on a new level! I see you 👀 . Would’ve been funny if you actually pushed and pulled film.

[@joyfulcolouring7372]

Love your channel mate.

[@camarada7274]

what if i i dont remember which photos i pushed on a roll? 😭 ive heard people say they don’t tell the developer when they push/pull. what happens when they develop it the same? 🤔

[@Hackzyyz]

wait okay so what if you want to get that overxposed look for portra since everyone says it looks better wouldnt it just be easier to set you aperture and shutter speed to a setting where it would just cause that effect instead of having to spend extra time developing???

[@fernandoobregon4191]

might be a stupid question but when pushing/pulling do you adjust the shutter speed to whatever you are setting the iso to or do you keep shutter speed true to the films iso. Also, if you adjust the shutter speed of the camera, do you counter that by adjusting the aperture or are you all good?

[@fustigate314159]

Easiest way is to just adjust the ISO to "trick" the camera's light meter. Then meter as normal for that new ISO. So same shutter speed that you'd use on that light for that ISO and aperture.

[@ejacks3]

A question for anyone out there. Could you just shoot at box speed use your exposer compensation dial to over/under expose as you wish then develop normally to get similar results as pushing or pulling film?

[@pixelgenau2982]

The same question came to my mind. Obviously no one answered so far. Would be much more convinient having all options while shooting.

[@Siiriainen]

Helpful video. I am still what to do with my camera that does not have manual ISO control. It auto reads DX coding on canisters. I have seen ways of “hacking” the DX coding on the canister itself. But what if I just shoot all my photos underexposed per my camera’s light meter? Isn’t that the same effect? Does shooting at -2EV in my camera allow me to push +2 in developing without changing my ISO setting in camera?

[@christianvjgamil6872]

I have a question, when pulling film, do you need to tell the lab that I pulled it? Or just develop it normally?

[@graham_white]

You don't pull it the Lab does. you choose to over or under expose it. If you accidentally shot a roll of Portra 400 at 100 you have overexposed it 2 stops, so if you wanted it to be exposed properly you would have them pull it 2 stops. same if you shot a roll of 100 at 400, if you don't have them push it 2 stops then it will be underexposed.

[@eddiegee2940]

The other pacific islanders photographers who are not your friends , do you give them props if their work is good?