How to Re-saw Veneer on the Bandsaw - Shop Sawn Veneer for Panel glue up - Executive Desk Build Pt 2

In this video, we continue building the executive desk by re-sawing veneer for the front and side panels of the desk. I am veneering panels for the front and side instead of using solid wood because I want to limit wood movement and apply decorative copper to the front and side. I don’t want the wood movement to pop off the copper. I also want to be sure that the panel color matches the rest of the desk. This is not always the case when you buy store-bought plywood.
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[@Benham_Design]

Here is the link to the full playlist if you have missed an episode kzbin.info/aero/PLVgSs4YDBFht8_KdvZ7lLDbNm6iLrZqqa

[@patseevers262]

Nicely explained. Enjoy your content, keep up the good work!

[@gregmize01]

Those I-Beams are slick!

[@jcsrst]

The vacuum bag is a real game changer! I am having vacuum bag envy...🤣 Mine is much smaller. Veneering is awesome, you can make plywood look like something else! Thanks for the vid 😊

[@cpeterson877]

Great video to watch and dream about having all that equipment.

[@tomlagatol4448]

I’m enjoying the build, and I like the explanation along with it….Good vid. Thanks

[@jaykepley5238]

Always enjoy your videos. This is another good one. Happy holidays!

[@Benham_Design]

Thank you for watching!

[@mattchew5965]

New woodworker question: If the side that rides against the bandsaw fence is flat, why do you take the board to the jointer instead of the planer after each pass?

[@Benham_Design]

Oftentimes when re sawing, as the board is cut it will release tension in the wood, and the board can cup. Sending back across the jointer flattens it out. If I send it through the planner, the pressure from the rollers can push the cup out. So the planer may make the surface smooth but as it comes off the rollers, the cup can spring back since it is not under pressure any longer.

[@TWC6724]

Do you adjust your fence for drift before resawing or is that not necessary? Can you just keep the fence straight?

[@Benham_Design]

Yes, good point, you would want to adjust your fence for drift. With this particular band saw, I adjusted once and have never had to touch it since, it has been holding it's settings well, even after changing blades

[@PaulSeminary]

Great job !!! say where did you get your veneer tape dispenser? Thanks

[@Benham_Design]

I got it from veneer supplies, I get most of my stuff from them. www.veneersupplies.com/index.php

[@dodge-jo4oc]

Does your drum sander put the finish sanding on your panels or do you have to do a final sanding process. Also because veneer can be delicate to work with what grit sand paper does your drum sander use. I don't currently have a drum sander and can't afford one however my projects are small therefore I intend to build a small one. Yet most of my projects will be veneered I am currently researching the most very efficient techniques as material is extremely expensive. And I want to maximize the use of it and minimize the amount of waste. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated thank you.

[@Benham_Design]

The drum sander does not put what I consider a finalized sanded finish on it. I still sand with a random orbital prior to applying the finish. For the grit I use it depends on what the veneer looks like coming off the bandsaw when I resaw it. Woods like cherry are pretty smooth with a sharp blade, so I might just use 180 on the drum. Some woods like wenge, are really tough on the saw blade, so I might start at 80grt and then work my way up through the grits. There is not a one size fits all grit that I use.

[@BoscoRedBob]

When resawing, does your blade ever bow slightly in the middle, towards the fence and give you a bit of a concave board? May a 32nd to a 16th. If so how do you correct for that? I have constant issues with it. If I put it on the jointer, sander or planner, then the edges are high and by the time I get everything flat again my board is too thin.

[@Benham_Design]

When I have that happen to my, I first make sure that I have my guide blocks dialed in. Then make sure I have good tension. Then put a new blade on it. Usually the new blade option solves the problem

[@pepper7144]

What bandsaw blade did you use?

[@Benham_Design]

I use a 3/4" wide, 3 TPI blade from rocky mountain saw Blade.

[@adamchesis7443]

I'm lost, how do you press that without and cawls and it stays flat, also why would you not use 3/8 mdf which would be flat, instead of warped cheap ply. but most of all why wouldn't you use a flitch of veneer and book match the whole thing.

[@Benham_Design]

My table is a torsion box, that is nice and flat and doesn't deflect under loads or clamping forces. When the panel is clamped to this surface as it dries, it dries flat. MDF adds a surprising amount of additional weight. On a piece this big, that adds up quickly making delivery a bigger challenge. Also MDF is gross to work with because of the fine dust. Buying a flitch of veneers sounds good, but they are really thin, so if something bumps into it, could make it hard to sand out a dent/scrap. Also since they are so thin it is harder to control the thickness of the end panel. With shop sawn veneer, I have room to sand it to my desired thickness. Basically more options. As far as book matching, this is a personal design choice. I think in many instances especially on large panels such as the front of the desk. Book matching looks cheep. Just like Formica or other plastic laminates. The fake picture repeats itself. Wood flooring laminate the picture repeats itself. These materials are all fake trying to look like real wood. So now when I see large panels that are bookmatch, repeating itself, my brain says cheep, why not just go Formica. Also on this large panel, their is going to be decorative copper, and a grid pattern applied to it so I don't want any additional patterns to compete for your attention. I want the panel to be non-descript so it just disappears behind the decorative elements I want to stand out.

[@Benham_Design]

Also ply is not cheap, 🤣

[@bobweiram6321]

Can I use the veneer when straight instead of wenge?

[@Benham_Design]

Sorry I don't understand your question

[@bobweiram6321]

@@Benham_Design Hint: Joke.

[@GregsGarage]

Can you tell me what pump you use?

[@Benham_Design]

Yep, and it works great, I am probably going to add a pressure switch to it so it doesn't run continuously on long glue ups www.veneersupplies.com/products/Vacuum-Pump---5-CFM-120v-AC-240v-AC.html

[@GregsGarage]

@@Benham_Design Thank you!

[@GregsGarage]

@@Benham_Design I just ordered up a kit from them... Thanks for the tip!!!

[@Benham_Design]

Awseome, it should work out well for you, mine has been running strong for almost a decade.

[@Martinonskis]

Who makes the tape dispenser, please?

[@Benham_Design]

www.veneersupplies.com/index.php

[@Martinonskis]

@@Benham_Design Thank you.

[@mr.picklesworth]

What's the reasoning to veneer plywood as apposed to just making a solid would panel? It didn't look like it was any exotic wood where a solid panel would me cost prohibitive. Just seemed like a lot more work to veneer it without a clear and obvious reason for it.

[@Benham_Design]

The desk is around 60" long, so the front panel is almost 60". That's a lot of movement across the width of the front that could cause some problems. I also am glueing copper to the front, if there is lots of movement it could cause gaps around the grid and pop the copper off the front. Also, the front grain direction is vertical, and short. So if you glue up that many pieces that wide there is a risk it could bend and break since it is not very strong. Plywood is much stronger. So with all those things to consider, veneering seemed like a safer bet.