How to Rebuild Hydraulic Roller Lifters - 302 Engine

[@jimcrawford5603]

On a gm roller lifter if you take a straight pick ,depress the check ball at the bottom of the plunger while trying to compress the plunger you can release the compressed air in the lifter to let the plunger down the bore . Also when disassembling you can push on the check ball at the bottom of the plunger to release suction while removing plunger .

[@kevinrutherford5552]

great video . the more I watch these videos the more I'm thinking of building a motor to replace the stock one in my 95 5.0

[@jsimmonstx]

There are two other parts that you didn't mention - the check ball, and the check ball retainer on the bottom of the cup.

[@dufus2273]

got a set of low mileage ford motorsports roller lifters from my previous 393/ 351w stroker project that I rebuilt with new roller lifters and was wanting to rebuild the old ones. took one apart but didn't know what to look for.. now I know how. thanks good video

[@irench]

1st let me say, I enjoy the reuse of parts which can, in fact, save much and allow one to spend the budget on better places. I do take issue with the "old school" crack. Blueprinting my engines or any engine is NOT old school. In fact, ask a rebuilder what exactly makes his rebuild better than the factory and he's likely to say one important thing assuming he's got a brain. That answer should be quality control AKA blueprinting. Blueprinting is the process by which one measures and assures that the engine's actual specs match those of the engineering diagram or blueprint. At the factory or even larger rebuilders who mass produce engines like Jasper or Power Junk they only measure about 1 in 25 specs and only certain processes. Rarely does an assembler measure the end gap of each and every ring. They measure only the 1st three from the packs. Weigh the pistons? Never, the manufacturer assures that they are all within so many grams and so many thou. The QC guy pulls maybe 5 of a batch of 100 to check for conformity to allowed QC tolerances. So, tell me again what would be the "new school" cause that sounds to me like grenade manufacturing. I've designed and built thousands of engines in my 32 years as a professional and never ever had a failure. From circle track and drag to daily and towing. I started before the buy it bullshit like today purchasing a set of pistons to make a 406 instead of knowing the right parts to use and making maching changes where needed. Which heads would work the best for a given application. try a dial indicatr and fixture to measure roller next time

[@JunkyardDoggs]

irench hey man, thx for the tips. I dont claim to know everything but what i mean by old school is guys actually taking their time to check the parts (as we all should). These guys nowadays just buy new and assume its good install and go...terrible practices

[@77cobraii89]

bro even though i don't have roller rockers you helped my ass big time with this video!!! i have an old late 60's 302 in a 1976 mustang cobraII lol and it was built soooooo fucking frakenstine I'm legit relearning i feel like how to rebuild a 302 lolol

[@dannyg652]

thats why people buy new ones, but what fun is that" amen brother..few will know the joy of spinning down the road like "yea boy i rebuild them.lifters lol

[@mrjoltcola7587]

Good video, a lot of times when I break down an old Fox Body 5.0, the lifters wont compress with hand pressure, they feel like solid lifters. :D I tried ultrasonic cleaning and soaking in solvent for days, but eventually have to take them apart, like you did in the video.

[@zzeellttiikk]

By compress by hand you mean the cup? Are they supposed to compress? I got some that do and some that don't. Im trying to figure out if I need new ones

[@CarsFoodWeed]

These videos are really helpful

[@danwilson3011]

Tony, love your videos! I was following this one and noticed a couple of my "plungers" were broken and the bottom piece, with the ball bearing inside, had fallen out. Do you know of a plunger supplier so I can pick up a couple? Thanks!

[@fngonuts]

16 x S-1231 = $67.00= $4.20 per. shipped to eastern iowa (apr-1-19)

[@JLMEALER2000]

New tappets (non roller) cost about that per tappet... Roller tappets are about $12 ea

[@UFOGHOSTHUNTER]

Do you install them dry? I've seen different videos with soaked over 24 hours and one that he puts the lifter dry and then tightens the rocker arms to zero lash. My Fox is tapping a lot after changing out the valve stem seals. I tried putting it back together but it ended up making too much tapping.

[@rickywillis9646]

No longer available from your source know of another or specs on spring

[@makettagreen1313]

I just bought a ecam for my 88, should i replace my lifters?

[@JunkyardDoggs]

Yes or rebuild them

[@jimclarke1108]

Excellent, just wondering about the cost compared to new lifters?

[@JunkyardDoggs]

About the same as new lifters. The difference is in the build quality from back then until now

[@302hobronco]

I heard of guys using washers to "shim" between the spring and the plunger to reduce the amount of compression the inside of the lifter can do. Essentially making it a semi solid lifter. Have you heard or tried this before? What's your thoughts on it?? From what I read the advantage is mainly upper rpm gettin what I understand.

[@JunkyardDoggs]

I havent hear of that before but it sounds cool and the theory makes sense. Do you know anyone whos tried it personally?

[@302hobronco]

@@JunkyardDoggs not personally no. I got it from a magazine article years ago but I cannot find it now. I just remember bits and pieces of it. You didn't want to make it a solid roller, you needed some of the compression so oil would still pump up the pushrods.

[@MyBCAM]

How much are the springs? What does the cryo cost?

[@JunkyardDoggs]

MyBCAM springs are 2.50 each. email me for cryoheat processing [e-mail]

[@dufus2273]

good question

[@fngonuts]

$4.20 per spring shipped (approx) as of 4-1-19.

[@Granite]

Is it worth rebuilding these? mine were run in a garbage engine. I might just start fresh.

[@JunkyardDoggs]

Better to start fresh if the motor was not maintained properly. Oil starvation will cause the rollers to wear and chip.

[@Granite]

@@JunkyardDoggs Thanks for the reply. Keeping the 5.0 community nice.

[@JoshTolbertUrbana]

Neat video, thanks. I've got a 5.0 project I'm working on, and I started to just disassemble/clean/reassemble the lifters...But now you've got me thinking about at least new springs. However, I managed to mangle one or two of the top clips pretty badly while trying to get the lifters apart...Do you know of a source for replacement clips? Thanks!

[@JunkyardDoggs]

Josh Tolbert thx for checking it out. email me i can send you new clips for $1 [e-mail]

[@JoshTolbertUrbana]

Sent an e-mail your way. Thanks!

[@tromac118]

How's it going Tony? Is there a chance that you mistook the Cent Sprg Corp part# 5-1231 for actual part# S-1231, which has list price of $2.71 ea.? I entered p# 5-1231 on their search site and no such part# Thanks in advance for any help you can give. JUNKYARD DOGGIN!!!

[@JunkyardDoggs]

tromac118 yes that right man i did make that mistake. Thanks for watching

[@tromac118]

Tony, you have no idea how much your videos have helped and given me new ideas. I'm currently working on a 95 5.0 Stang, when I get it together I will post a few pics and vid's. Thanks brother and keep doin your thing mane. JUNK YARD DOGGIN!!!

[@SHREKfiona1234]

Yeah it's S, not 5 nor s, it couldn't find it unless it's capital s lol, $2.97 x 16 = 47.456 as of 11.23.20 $40 more = new set of lifters from summit

[@JunkyardDoggs]

Yes alas....the Chinese products have foiled my plans of American innovation again. Enjoy the 7 dollars my good man you missed the point.