How To Rebuild the WP Fork Inner Cartridge

[@lastgunstar]

Can't believe this video has so many views and so few likes. Thanks for these awesome WP fork videos!

[@joncavalier8875]

2:40 my spring guide won't turn off the thread at all! Maybe I over tightened it last time?

[@mathewsharp233]

So why remove the sleeve part of the cartridge? Last rebuild I did I had 2 small bushings left over. Doing rebuild again today I remove the sleeve, it looks like that's where the bushings go but how do they come out? Was that bit skipped in the video or don't they need to be changed ? I can't see any other reason to remove the cartridge sleeves.

[@MrDuhfactor]

Well done bud, excellent tutorial.

[@mxgalek]

14:10 you should exchange the inner bushing inside sleeve over time bushing lost teflon coat

[@xugg]

Thank you! You answered my question above. Does this bushing just pop out if i use an angled pick... nothing holding it down?

[@aganatra7419]

I would like to tackle this but I dont understand 1 thing - why do you have to dismantle the cartridge tube? - because the rebound rod with its piston can go in from the bottom and so then you can hold the wear ring on the piston and squeeze it and push the whole assembly in from the bottom can't you? - so that eliminates some work in the whole process - or am I missing something?

[@aganatra7419]

I see now that you have to put the rebound piston (with new seal ring) from the top as the cartridge tube at the bottom has a bigger bore so it's not possible to get the piston in with the seal ring properly from that side - has to be from the top and thats why you have split the cartridge tube...for anyone whos wondering what the answer was to my own question 😂

[@austinc8176]

@@aganatra7419do you mean the wear band? Cause yeah, it’ll expand out in the wider part and won’t go in the inner tube. I just had luck with a workaround though! I curled it up with my fingers so it made a smaller circle than the valve and put it on so it would hug the valve while I put it in the tube 😁

[@premium67]

This video is awesome

[@ronik1974]

Great video !! im doing now the same to my EXC 530

[@nvrfollowb5]

14:57 My rods are bottomed flush with the top, no spring tension what so ever.

[@apr551]

Sweet instructions

[@endurodz]

thanks for the video, need it for for my poor old forks.

[@karolek7171]

You showed me how to take everything apart. Could you show how to take the top cap off. Please

[@samuelyeet6006]

So what causes the inner cartridge to want to suck up into itself? I was doing a simple fork seal change, followed one of your guys video, took the air bleed screw out to get that extra oil out, and pumped it a few times, bow it wants to stay in rather then stay out, do you know why?

[@RoosterHarris]

Some one told me I could put for oil in bleeder ? On ktm 350sxf ? Thanks if u can help

[@patrickmclaughlin7140]

You missed a o ring in the bottom of the compression damping fitting around the adjusting screw that's held in by a small snapring ive had mine leak in this location.

[@TheOwchka]

Hi, we’ve come up to 7th minute, however now we’re stuck. The fork has been tightened to the max by the previous owner and the adjustment tube was really dirty (dry black sediment), also there’s a lot of sediment elesewhere in the rod... we’re pretty sure it’s clogged dry. We tried to unscrew the tap rebound, but nothing works. We’ve heated it really well (smoke coming from the rod), but it won’t budge, spins with the rod.. Any extra suggestions? It’s almost impossible to hold the tube and unscrew the tap.. Also the holding tool you’re using with the vice - can’t find one (or it would take months for it to be delivered). Any suggestins how to approach holding the rod in place without damaging it?

[@xugg]

Any luck?

[@TheOwchka]

XUGG Not at home. We went to a guy who does a lot of suspension maintenance and he managed to get the parts apart. I know he used a lathe to hold one of the pieces and some special tools, not sure which. We had no chance at home :)

[@mathewsharp233]

I used large vice grips with piece of old inner tube to protect it.Can't see vice grips crushing it just don't go crazy.

[@1wheeldrive751]

For anyone that reads this three years later (now), you can rethread the spring centering spacer and the fork cap onto the top of the damper rod and jam them against each other. Then by holding the hex on the top of the spring spacer with a wrench, you should be able to get the TAP rebound off the other end. I was faced with a similar situation, using wood soft jaws that don’t keep the damper rod from twisting all that well, and came up with this solution.

[@billybobbubbawubba9457]

My rebound needles were bound with crud, after only a short season. My seals hadn't leaked either. I thought I cleaned things last time I worked on them. Is the dirt from my lack of detail?

[@TheOwchka]

Hi, was the tap rebound easy to unscrew? What did you use to hold the rod in place while you unscrewed the tap rebound? Ours won’t come off, it just spins with the rod if we try to unscrew it..

[@trustnuffin9121]

Excellent video Just replaced the fork seals & bushes on my 2004 Exc 250 and made no difference....compression & rebound clickers make no difference so I,m guessing the fault lies with the inner damping mechanism. Have looked into it and financially not viable so a bike upgrade is on the cards I think. Okay for me though as my skill level doesn't warrant tip top forks at the moment : )

[@BlackbeardBikes]

Great video - would of been totally lost

[@Chris-yk5rm]

Great video but 1 bushing was missed. The damping rod slides through a bushing that was in the end cap you removed. Thanks for putting these together.

[@aganatra7419]

Yes I see that bushing....do you know how to change it?...it's in the rebuild kit that I got

[@Chris-yk5rm]

@@aganatra7419 I did a delicate surgury and cut it out. You have to be very vrry careful to not damage the damper compoments

[@aganatra7419]

@@Chris-yk5rm you have to cut it out?...yikes...isn't there a way to push it out?...I'm scared of cutting into the cap housing 😐

[@Chris-yk5rm]

@@aganatra7419 if you can undo the end where the bushing is you may be able to tap it out with a brass or aluminum punch. I cut it and folded it in to remove it. Have to be very careful not to damage it.

[@aganatra7419]

@@Chris-yk5rm ok ...then how did you put the new one in?

[@Angry-Lynx]

So does that apply to 950 adventure?

[@joncavalier8875]

Should do

[@michail1963]

not a fan of high strength loctite...blue totally sufficient

[@rmatvmc]

Blue medium loctite works great. Thanks for watching!

[@austinc8176]

I was gonna say it seems like a bad idea putting 34 ftlb and red loctite on a thin wall cylinder