How To Rebuild Your Motorcycle's Brake Calipers | MC Garage

Hydraulic brake calipers are pretty simple and very reliable, but they do occasionally suffer problems. Whether your brakes are dragging excessively or there’s hydraulic fluid dripping from your the binders, the issue can usually be traced to worn or torn piston seals or rusty pistons.
In either case, a rebuild is the best way to remedy the problem. Lucky for you, we’ve got a video that walks you through the process.
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Hydraulic brake calipers are pretty simple and very reliable, but they do occasionally suffer problems. Whether your brakes are dragging excessively or there’s hydraulic fluid dripping from your the binders, the issue can usually be traced to worn or torn piston seals or rusty pistons.
In either case, a rebuild is the best way to remedy the problem. Lucky for you, we’ve got a video that walks you through the process. You’ll need new seals and perhaps new pistons for your brake calipers, as well as a few other basic tools and supplies. It’s really not a difficult procedure, and it’s outlined in detail in this video. Enjoy.
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[@redshiftit8303]

MC garage series, the only videos on KZbin I always hit that like button on!

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

and with 100% support

[@scatcat1994]

I didn;t know that the seals had an orinetation. kept on wondering why the piston kept ripping my seals when I was trying to push them back. New seals have been ordered thanks for he tip!

[@paulmessikommer4027]

Brilliant and straight to the point video ! I was scared to take the pistons out.(strong drag even after cleaning them on the calipers). Now I'm confident about it ! I will probably use the line to push them put as far as possible before disconnecting it. thank you for the top content!

[@Jj12915]

Hey there is a very simple (and safe) way to get your pistons out using the right size socket and a ratchet. Rather than try to explain it here, just check out "Delboy's Garage: Tokico 6 pot caliper rebuild" video and fast forward to where he takes the pistons out.

[@Jj12915]

Like he says in this video, on single piston calipers the compressed air works great and works a lot of the time on calipers with more pistons. Just sometimes you have a stubborn piston that won't budge even with air.

[@johnnyappleseedz422]

I just performed this periodic maintenance on my 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR. A few shared thoughts on my process: 1. I read the service manual several times for the corrext procedure, annotating torque specs, veeifying tools necessary, materials, supplies, etc. 2. I watch several KZbin videos on the procedure. Save the best videos for reference. 3. Be vedy methodical in your process for removal, parts accountability, cleaning, reassembky, installation, and torque specs. Removal was the easy part, but I removed my calipers before I had all my brake caliper parts for reassembly. This was to ensure thorough cleaning. For cleaning, I set up a 3-Stage "station." Following a good toothbrush scrub down with soap and water, my first pan was for brake cleaner scrub. 30-60 seconds for my own procedure. Make sure you have thick nitrile gloves on. I sceubbed hard to rwmove brake dust with a toothbrush and blue dish scrungy pad. 30-60 seconds. Then I dunked it into my second pan of soapy water. Washed any residual brake cleaner off by hand and with a dust beush with 3 inch firm bristles. Last, I dunked in a pan of clean water. Massaged rhe entive brake caliper clean. Immediately upon removal, I used a MasterVac hot air blower and blew out any water. Got tge caliper 100% dey in all fluid chambers and body. Rwplacing tge fluid seals and duat seals on a mono block caliper sucks. But once you get the hang of it, it is easier. My most efficient means was to put my left index finger in behind the caliper to guide the seals in while my right hand fingers seated the seals in. Some I needed a pick tool to guide stubborn seals in. Once that was completed, I seated tge brake pads in. I had a hard time since I never did this. As I attempted to seat the pads down onto the spring, it kept sliding in on one side. So I used a 6mm hex key behind the brake pad to keep it from shifting in keeping it more in line as I seated the other side. Once the other side was seated into the grove, the hex key comes right out. Now, my big question is... what torque value are YOU using for the bleed valve? My seevice manual has to be incorrect. There is no way I can use 12 foot pounds on an 8mm hollow bleed valve. I will crush the bleeder. But that is what my service manual states. 12 foot pounds for the bleed valve. Banjo is 18 foot pounds. Caliper bolt 26 foot pounds. What should my bleed valve be?

[@ImLeuff]

Next level MC Garage! Always good to see maintenance guides, thanks for making these

[@IslamNyayo]

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[@prostreetgsxr]

Great video! I would love to know more about how the lip on the seal helps pull the pistons back into place after the pressure is off. I just powder coated and rebuilt the calipers on my street glide and I tell you the high-pressure seal looked the same no matter which way I flipped it.

[@govindsankar9788]

"this is a beard level 3 in the beard scale of difficulty"

[@MJT-DA]

Govind Sankar GG you won the internet today 😂😂

[@AaronCohn84]

Hahaha... I wonder how high the beard scale goes? Is there such a thing as maximum beard? 😁

[@MJT-DA]

Yes Chuck Norris beard which is so hard even God wouldn't attempt it himself XD

[@IceBoNeZ]

lmao! >

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@MJT-DA God can't do it, he fucks up everything he touches.

[@redryder1146]

Great video Ari but shouldn't you use new crush washers for the banjo bolts when you reassemble I don't know if you mentioned that but I always thought that you were supposed to use new ones ?

[@johnnyappleseedz422]

My service manual states to replace the banjo bolt washers if removed.

[@Kyre5049]

Been working on a 98 CBR 600 F3 and right when I get one thing fixed the next goes wrong. Just got carburetors rebuilt, finally got started and not first though second test ride the front brakes decided to clamp shut upon pulling up to consummate. Thank goodness for this video.

[@KDub57]

no garage is complete without the 80 flippin cans of brake cleaner in the background lol. Great job

[@wardwagar863]

sponsored maybe?

[@GIGABACHI]

Haha, same cheap ass pliers i got ! Good job, Sr. ! Centering the caliper on the rotor it's a nice detail but not a MUST. The nature of the caliper/rotor arrangement will put those pistons where they need/want to be. What should never be forgotten it's pump your brakes to check your work and make sure you can stop when you set out for a test ride. P.S: Nice SuMo KaTooM.

[@jras0522]

I didn't know Steve Rogers have a youtube channel about bike maintainance, good work Captain America! Just kidding, ahahahaha! I love your show Ari, but I rarely see maintainance videos for classic bikes and neo retro ones. Ex. Drum breaks, how to clean, how to replace, how to maintain, etc. From us in the classice groove of things, we would greatly appreciate to quality videos of it. Until then, cheers and ride safe! 😂😂

[@hotttt28]

Awesome as usual

[@manyourcoolchris]

Super helpful and very thorough. Thank you!

[@GETUPANDGO]

Nice! I want to go rebuild my brakes now...

[@johnnyappleseedz422]

Shot in the dark: My 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR Service Manual dictates the front 8mm Master Cylinder Bleed Valve as 49-inch pounds torque. The rear 10mm Master Cylinder Bleed Valve as 71-inch pounds torque. However, the same service manual states the front caliper bleed valve, also an 8mm bleed valve, is 12 FOOT POUNDS TORQUE? I am certain this is a misprint and could be 12-inch pounds. But WTF? How am I supposed to trust the Service Manual with obvious incorrect torque specs? And I cannot get a clear response from Kawasaki of America to confirm this torque value. Why is this so difficult? I don't like "hand tight plus 1/4 turn." That's BS. If the bike has torque specs, they should be correctly applied. And tge "unspecified bolt torque" table is useless!! I used that procedue for another bolt and it stripped out the hole. My torque wrench is 1 month and it is working properly. Some bolts are either 1. Misprinted torque value in the Service Manual or 2. The torque value is printed correctly in the service manual with incorrect torque values from factory. I've crossed referenced Yamaha R1 and Honda CBR and of course, no torque value is the same but neither say 12 foot pounds. What the heck does "right" look like when the Service Manual is in question? I found several discrepancies while reading and studying the Service Manual. And, what gets me is, the print date is 2018. The new 2023 ZX-10R/RR have the same exact wording. So, there was no change since 2018 and an 8mm hollow bleed valve is no way 12 foot pounds of torque!!

[@musibaumohammed6651]

Great idea well done 👍 your videos have safe a lot and make me understand my bike. I have watch all most your videos 👏👏👏, pls I will like you to make video (how to service throttle body) because I have check almost your videos the similar one is how to service carburetor. Thanks

[@AriH211]

Thanks for watching. One of the great things about EFI is that there isn't much needed in the way of regular service. Make sure they butterflies are synched (if you have a multi-cylinder engine) and that's about it. There are things that can go wrong with EFI, like fuel-pump failure, TPS issues, or clogged injectors, but those issues are rare. Regardless, I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@karlkelley8353]

Hello, Could you do a segment on steering headbearings? Tapered vs ball. Thanks Karl Kelley

[@svsouza2921]

Good job, but brake fluid is corrosive, do not forget the gloves.😄

[@shinuza]

Also, brake line washers are one use only

[@AriH211]

That's what they say, but I reuse 'em all the time. Same with drain-plug washers.

[@CarloPiana]

Precisely. Brake fluid is somewhat corrosive, not just messy, better be using gloves.

[@saikkkkkk]

i'ts okay, but you must immediately wash your hands if you don't use gloves 😂 😂 😂

[@superbarnie]

It's okay, my hands are unpainted ;)

[@peterhird3542]

Awesome post thanks...👍

[@zanehopefz6hundred761]

I have niffan calipers. With Brembo Rotors. I really want to upgrade from 2 pistons up front to 4 pistons up front. As well as 1 piston in the rear to 2 pistons. What Brembo Calipers would I need for my 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Naked?..

[@stuarttownsend2868]

Another ace video, previously I had used red rubber grease to lube the pistons and seals, is this not advisable?

[@Anderle52134]

Brake fluid is way better.

[@arniet1]

Often I'm away for a few days a week and my bike is parked up outside as i don't have a garage. In the summer it's not a problem, but come the winter with the constant rain and cold my pistons are always ceasing up! It's a real pain! Is there an easy way to make sure they stay in good condition whilst away without having to remove them?

[@FREE_PUREBLOOD333]

Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other KZbinrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.

[@eddiezahra]

Amazing videos. Keep it coming!!

[@subin_sunny]

Make a video on engine flush and oil change

[@kornelbicskei6133]

Excellent video! But please use gloves when handling brake cleaners and brake dust, that's nasty stuff.. :)

[@RoMiguens]

nice one very very usfull good job

[@RSteve-gd8kj]

So Ari, Every time you replace the front tire you should not torque down the calipers until you realign/Center the caliper/pads to the disk?

[@AriH211]

Not if you have axially mounted calipers, or if your radial calipers have locating dowels.

[@igostupidfast3]

Important note, on my yamaha fj1200 the service manual says NOT to split the caliper. I don't know about other bikes but checking service information is important

[@jedigeekbiker]

great video, seems ive been doing it wrong with red rubber grease that comes with the seals.. much prefer this

[@SportbikerNZ]

My brakes were dragging (1990 bike) so I just did the seals. Stressed hard about orientating the piston seal with seal lip on the inside, but couldn't really tell by looking at the seals. I even pulled out one good seal to flip it after I figured I had it the wrong way around. Anyway I completed the job, but still wondered if I had done it right. After a google, it turns out many, if not most, piston seals are simply square and have no raised lip. The wedge type seals are apparently easy to spot.

[@randysavage1997]

Are your brakes still dragging? Cause mine are on my R6, did everything besides rebuilding my calipers. So maybe I should....

[@VasyaIvanovichPupkin]

I have the opposite issue on the SV. Long lever travel due to high piston retraction. Rebuilding the calipers now, hoping that clean pistons and new seals will act better. PS, it is not air or a leak issue. the brake is firm and will do a stoppie on a dime. It just takes too much initial lever travel to bring the pads to the rotor.

[@SportbikerNZ]

@@randysavage1997 I'm replying 3 years late, but yes, my brakes did return to dragging after a short time. I had to replace the caliper pistons which then fixed everything.

[@SportbikerNZ]

@@VasyaIvanovichPupkin I'd be very surprised if the caliper seals were causing too much retraction? First I've heard of that being a problem. I know you mentioned air and leaks, but air still trapped somewhere in the system, faulty brake lines (expanding like a balloon somewhere) faulty master cylinder or maybe something wrong with ABS system (if you have ABS) would be my bet before caliper piston seals. Keep us posted if the caliper piston seals work.

[@VasyaIvanovichPupkin]

​@@SportbikerNZ Brake is firm once pads contact the rotors. Only excessive lever travel is observed. No other symptoms. (No ABS on the bike) Air and break lines would result in a squishy brake feel. Symptom is not present or at least is minimal (I do replace the fluid bi-annually so brake bleed was done several times now). Also air in the system or worn master cylinder seals would temporarily result in a higher bite point after pumping the lever. Symptom is not present at all. Also with worn master cylinder, it is possible to experience inconsistent bite point depending on the speed of application. A quick squeeze will result in a high bite point due to the sudden pressure increase expanding the seals in the master. Yet after partial release the lever may sink lower as the fluid is allowed to slip past the seals. This is also not present. However, visually inspecting, a gap can be seen between the pad an the rotor that is consistent with the dead travel on the lever. It closes and opens as the brake is applied and released. Same can be seen on the floating caliper body. Pushing pistons all the way in and pumping them back to the pads a few times (breaking stiction on the seals and allowing break fluid film to lubricate the surface), decreases the lever travel for a short period of time, presumably until the pad friction material wears off and seals stick to pistons again. I have just put it all back together with the new seals. With my "inconsistent" measurements using a digital baggage scale, I have conservatively recovered 12mm of lever travel at 11kg of force, and 13mm at 20kg of force. We shall see how long this will last, but the difference is very noticeable. I should point out that this is unlikely to happen with riders who chew through pads like kids through candy, where seals to not get to sit in one spot on a piston for too long. I mostly commute and use light breaking most of the time and I am sure these were factory seals on a 15 year old bike. I should probably write this up somewhere. I even half-ass recorded my troubleshooting process. But I am a lazy dickhead. )))

[@caruser4]

This may be a dumb question but shouldn't you use silicone grease on the pins instead of a petroleum-based grease to avoid deteriorating the boots?

[@jospi2]

Yes, anything that involves rubber seals has to be treated with silicone.

[@willowglenn]

Silicon grease is also required for the high temperatures that brake parts can reach.

[@mareksumguy1887]

High temp silicone grease is the way to go.

[@jigneshraval0609]

Thanks man✌

[@pearcelutz5693]

Yo! MC Garage! Where look to purchase brake caliper rebuild kits? Can't seem to find any....

[@vince0312]

Love your videos Ari! Can I seriously get you some boxes of gloves? I know you love working on bikes but many fluid are carcinogenic Since we are on brake mind going over the drum brakes too?

[@shauryadeuja]

is adding ABS to a non ABS bike good ? Does it actually work ?

[@HighGrade_FireBlade]

Lubing brake seals with brake fluid alone can cause excessive lever travel because the pistons won’t be able to slide freely enough against the seal. It’s better to lube them with silicone or red rubber grease. Brembo monoblocks actually have a warning with their rebuild kits saying preparing the pressure seal with brake fluid can cause excess lever travel or dragging brake pads.

[@johnnyappleseedz422]

Great. I used the lube that came with my brake pistons from Brembo. I wishbthere was a definitive answer on what product is best for lube, longevity, and reliability. I don't like half-assing things.

[@LouCFur90]

That's a nice looking KTM 950 👌🏻

[@AriH211]

It's Zack Court's. He was kind enough to lend it to us for the demo.

[@charlesmastin5628]

Ari Henning please find some excuse to have the 950 in a future vid... mc commute hooligan edition??

[@ahole5407]

That's all fine and dandy, but you making it look so easy breaking loose the pinch bolts is very misleading. THOSE THINGS ARE A PITA!

[@azurecoast45]

I really want to do this on my bike as there is some rust on the pistons and I noticed some uneven pad wear. Unfortunately my bike uses four piston opposing calipers which can't be split! Is the best way to get the pistons out just pumping them out while the system is still all together? Was thinking I could put something thick between the pistons so they all hit it, then put something thinner, then thinner etc until they are all most of the way out. Otherwise I'm at a total loss. Bent nose pliers with a rag maybe?

[@AriH211]

The technique you describe it a good one. Brembo also suggests clamping all but one piston down and then pressing the unsecured piston out with compressed air. Motion Pro also sells a slim little piston-removal tool that should do the trick. We wanted to include it in this vid but the order didn't arrive in time.

[@nickenghardt1]

Someone's bound to gonna start complaining about not using fresh crush washers... If you want to be safe, and don't want to get or you don't have new ones; try heating the old sealing washers until they glow red. Let 'em cool and they're ready to go again. Better yet, just order a big ass bag of those things online - doesn't break the bank, and it's copper - a precious metal - so you can tell your significant other it's an investment, not bike parts - and go ahead and replace the old ones.

[@INNOVVDashCam]

Thanks for sharing the MC garage series, it's very useful to us. But we don't have so many professional tools if we want to rebuild the motorcycle's brake calipers.

[@glenn4220]

Came here to find out what the correct seal orientation was. Your video answered my question. Thank you for an intelligent, no BS video.

[@scummy73dude64]

As always a great vid 😏 But points deducted for lack of gloves with that nasty shit brah..🤔

[@danstiurca7963]

This is precisely what I needed to know. Very clear and straight forward. Thank you for putting in the time to share your knowledge.

[@mdhayhurst]

Before going straight to a metal pick, try a wittled down popsicle stick or the end of a bent/hooked zip tie to try and get under the seal to lift it out. Much smaller chance of scratching the bore that way.

[@Anderle52134]

I use a (sowing) needle to get the seals out. Always use NEW sealing washers. For piston removal I use a bearing puller - works great.

[@danpluso]

4:12 Not always true, my Kawasaki service manual says to lube the fluid seal (inner one) with PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease (a type of silicone grease). I think any high-temperature, waterproof brake grease will work. I was going to use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Brake Lubricant for my next rebuild.

[@mike216ism]

After rebuilding my 05 gsxr 1000 brakes they definitely stopped dragging. Made a massive difference in braking. Just be sure to bleed them properly. Speed bleeders make bleeding much easier

[@AuMechanic]

Do not use air, pistons are not to be "fired" anywhere. Soak or drain old fluid out of reservoir and fill with fresh fluid and refit the lid. Undo the banjo and do it back up finger tight. Remove the caliper and jack the piston out with hydraulic pressure from the brake lever in a controlled manner over a plastic catch tray, checking as you go to make sure the reservoir is not empty. Ensuring the reservoir cap is on while doing it or you risk fluid coming back out of it in the bike as you pump it. When fluid escapes out the side of the piston you can remove it the rest of the way with fingers. Once the piston is out undo the banjo and store the hose end to stop it draining. When it goes back on the system has fresh fluid in it and no old fluid will enter the clean caliper.

[@AuMechanic]

Anyone can do what they like to their own calipers, but for mechanics working on other vehicles, they don't own the calipers to be taking risks damaging one. If some folks want to risk it that up to them but using hydraulic pressure to remove them will never damage the piston or injure anyone, it will also remove old fluid that can be displaced with new fluid in the same process. And doesn't require a compressor so do it, so it makes no sense to use air. If people like the bang sound of a piston shooting out then by all means go for it.

[@nauroticdax]

Hopefully someone will see this and not have the job I just had getting my pistons out, I pumped the brakes to get them to come out as far as I could but they didn't want to know so when I got them inside and split the caliper I tried heat I tried the rag and grab I tried compressed air (sadly I don't have a grease gun) NOTHING worked. Here's what you do; get a ratchet with an extension bar on it and put it in the piston cup then insert a socket that will just fit alongside the flat of the extension bar in the piston cup (I can't give numbers because they are all different sizes). Once it's all wedged in there turn slowly and the bar should pinch on the socket and the wall of the piston and the piston should turn, keep turning and sorta angle it upwards or pull up gently as you turn and it will come out eventually mine were incredibly stiff so it's gonna need to be in a soft jaw vice and some sweat but it WILL come. (if your piston has a cap it should either come out with some persuading OR I carefully drilled a hole in the cap less than 2mm deep DO NOT DRILL THE PISTON got a pin punch in there and wedged the cap out) Good luck hope someone finds this as helpful as I did because after days of looking for advice on the internet NO ONE mentions this and it works a treat.

[@DearMajesty]

Hmmm....KTM 950 Supermoto? Nice bike, still a POS KTM though...

[@brittenv1000]

You didnt show fitting the primary seal. That thing is an arse!

[@NavyMitchell]

Holy smokes, been working on my bikes for so long. I never thought to use vacuum caps

[@bevans2177]

I have a 2007cbr600 and my brake caliper pistons aren't retracting. Do you think rebuilding them will help? I got new brake lines and brand new brake fluid in it. Thanks in advance

[@AlexKost-tq6bj]

For calipers with slide pins it's important to never put grease on the tip of the slide pin -> it could drive grease against the dead-end hole and cause a hydraulic lock which would prevent the slide pin from going all the way in, causing brake drag and burning up your pads and rotor. Super common issue when people DIY car brakes!

[@mikesnow.]

What's going on if I have put everything back on, nothing comes out when I try to bleed the brakes, and pumping the brake lever plenty does nothing after adding fluid to the reservoir? Heaps of brake fluid leaked out when I took my brakes apart to clean and replace pads. I know it needs more but nothing seems to be getting sucked in from the reservoir.

[@Redmenace96]

I am helping a buddy with a single piston rear caliper on a scooter. It fails only occasionally. Squeezes handle all the way to grip, no braking (claims it also makes noise, I never hear it). I figure there is a blockage in the fluid passage, or sticking on the slide/piston. Does anyone know a simple starting point, or spot to look first? A rebuild will be done, but I would like to correctly find the specific problem and make sure it is addressed.

[@Motormouth2901]

Just to throw my worthless 2cents in, foam ear plugs also work well to stuff in the bango bolts to stop leaks whilts wrenching on other brake components, bit im just a hobby mechanic.

[@skeelo221]

Thanks for this tip, used the ear plug trick yesterday it worked great!!

[@segapc1994]

I've just been though this process and they're still leaking from the piston... which I didnt replace because I thought it would be fine.

[@imdeadserious6102]

Get a service manual. The dust seals may recommend silicone grease like my CBR 600 when using OEM parts

[@adamhause5529]

Im putting my caliper back on and it wont fit anymore. the housing seemed to shift inward towards the caliper. any thoughts on how to fix.

[@DJJAW11]

... Completely of subject matter sir,but do you do some form of weights, or the equivalent 🙄🤔?.

[@keeganoconnell8526]

My pistons will not slide back into the cylinders with the O rings in place. Tried giving it some pressure with a vice but tore up the O ring and still did not slide. Tried using the old O rings again and new O rings... same thing. Can anyone help?

[@bojansubotic9475]

What is the torque value for pinch bolts on ktm 950 sm? The 3 bolts that connect two halfs. Thanks.

[@ANILTV82]

Very much needed this video ! Thanks a ton!

[@SvanteOES]

Dont you need to drain all the brake fluid before you start the process?

[@valantis981]

Hi there, nice work. I've been watching your videos for a long time. A very nice tool to remove the pistons if you don't got a brake piston remover, is an External 90 Circlip Plier. Attached from the inner side of the piston with no chance of damage.

[@AriH211]

Good tip, thanks!

[@BroBeans1]

If you guys can get your hands on a monster 696 or bigger can you guys do a video for the timing belt replacement .. please. Thank you

[@raoulduke3770]

Alex Kossaian I second that.

[@rm25088]

Finally got my front brakes to work right by just a simple disassembly and cleaning, replaced lines with braided and bled. Smooooooootthhhhh as silk now instead of grabby.

[@stuartphippen46]

Just to say that not all seals use a chamfered edge, they may be square cross section (eg. Yamaha blue spots).

[@andy42x]

If I attempted this, I'd probably destroy the entire brake system. But I like to watch

[@forevercomputing]

Older? A lot of bikes still use a single-sided caliper NEW from factory.

[@drumilly7]

Thanks for the video, some good tips that I haven't heard before.

[@hrev2neptune256]

Right on time. About to rebuild my calipers soon.

[@jonreynolds369]

Ha! I’ve seen too many videos. I think I recognize Zack’s bike.

[@QAnyui]

I noticed some bikes have a normal disc brake and some bikes have a disc brake with teeth or something like that. And why does every disc brake has a hole on it and why motogp disc brakes doesn't have it? I hope you guys can bring up this topic. Much apreciate.

[@mikemike8067]

a better trick leave the caliper on the bike put a bucket underneath with a rag press the brake lever untill the pistons pop out

[@carlhopf4775]

You always make the steps clear and easy to follow. Thanks guys!!

[@radiocrash]

Make sure to clean out the seal groves with the pic. You might have corrosion in them.

[@gage6661]

i wish youd actually show what bolts to tighten and which not to instead of spouting random names

[@masterlakay3856]

Doyou know the size of that oring ?

[@larscajvall5804]

Love this video

[@usMarinecuv902]

My front brakes only drag when it's cold. Kinda odd, but I'll rebuild them and see. I already replaced the master.

[@soufilms]

Mate )))) You didn't applied the greese on rubber sealings, its a must when servicing calipers

[@spiritbuu]

Dave Moss said not to lube the pins as it attracts brakes dust which is corrosive.

[@nspinicelli]

Who's here after watching a Dave Moss video? So glad I have this in my tool belt and shocked I didn't know about frozen pistons before

[@6Twisted]

On my 2015 MT-07 the brakes drag and they bind up over night and I have to give the bike a good push in the mornings to unbind them. It had the brake fluid changed a few months ago, the pads have loads of life left in them and there's no visible damage to the disks. Is it something that needs fixing? My previous 2015 CB125F developed the same issue after a while so it's either normal or I'm missing something.

[@Gizza22196]

The callipers need exactly what has been demonstrated in this video, a build up of dirt or corrosion is stopping the pistons moving freely

[@hommebizzare]

Before completely disassembling it, have you tried cleaning the pistons? Take the caliper off the bike, squeeze the lever a couple of times, clean the pistons with a plastic brush and brake cleaner and then push them back in. I don't believe you need a complete rebuild on a 2 year old bike, but maybe you just ride it a very dirty place

[@Dowent]

Try riding a decent distance (let´s say 20km) without using the front brake and then check the temperature on it. If it´s cool, you don´t have to worry too much.

[@eksine]

If it has sliding pins, ream out thebpin's bores, they are getting stuck, then relube the pins. Another thing is the pistons may be seized, possibly bent, needing replacment

[@Martin_Mafra]

Can I use dielectric grease on slide pins or copper grease ?

[@rajivthampi6622]

Hi MCG I have a Bajaj Pulsar 220 with bybre single piston rear caliper . It gets jammed and i have to cool it with water . I replaced the o rings once, but does not seem to solve the problem . Should I try replacing the o ring again or the bybre caliper set..?

[@brianmeuse7595]

Add brake fluid before inserting pistons. Air.

[@donkeytronkilla]

No idea how you just popped those pistons out so easily. I am on day two of trying to muscle those damn things out one micro meter at a time. Pistons are ruined but replacements on the way.

[@TheCvac]

You can use compressed air even with split calipers,you need to put air through the banjo bolt hole to pop the first piston out,then push the 2nd piston with air through the teeny tiny oil passage which you should see once you remove the first piston

[@jsr3793]

Excellent video The only thing I would add, is when cleaning the calipers. Fill a container, like a food storage container (I use the cheap glassware you can get at a dollar store) with alcohol or WD40 or something to help clean them. Brake cleaner tends to evaporate a little fast for me.

[@quincy1665]

You mention one option is to use a rag and a plier to get the piston out, are there any other/better options? Also, I'd like to see a vid about how a quickshifter works, and if it's actually bad for your bike when you're not on the track. Could you clarify that in a next vid perhaps?

[@MostBever]

You forgot one very important thing: Your own safety. I recommend single use nitrile gloves. Use safety glasses. There was some oil flying in this video, and you really, really don't want this in your eyes.

[@Srustithgowda]

My ktm rc's 3 workin fine 1 piston jamm can i rebuild or what?

[@ev_nasty]

Please go over ideal compression damping for 2007 cbr600rr. I saw ur sag and rebound videos......but nothing on compression. Also im practicing wheelies. Thanks.

[@ev_nasty]

2007*

[@JunkCCCP]

Good video, just got a nearly 30 year old bike for my 30 year old self recently, and everything needs work. I tried to fit some replacement pads today and the pistons were absolutely unmovable in the caliper, I figure it's about time for a rebuild.

[@mousswell]

Just out of curiosity... Brembo do not provide any torque for the bolts holding the halves. It is even recommended to use new ones or is it only for cars? since pre torqued at factory to the elastic limit. What torque did you use?

[@THEGEEK2001]

Mates rebuilding cals, this is an excellent video to help him whilst I'm away 👍 like customer support for bikes