How to Rehair a Violin Bow - Part 4 of 4: Attaching the Hair to the Head [HD]

TUTORIAL BY FRENCH MASTER BOW MAKER GILLES NEHR
/ gillesnehr
Part 1: • How to Rehair a Violin...
Part 2: • How to Rehair a Violin...
Part 3: • How to Rehair a Violin...
Gilles Nehr has restored and rehaired on regular basis bows from Isaac Stern, Pinchas Zukerman, Itzhak Perlman, Joshua Bell, Sarah Chang, Augustin Dumay, Jian Wang, Kolja Blacher, Julian Steckel, Alina Pogostkina, Nicolas Altstaedt, Vilde Frang, Mi-Kyung Lee, Ulf Wallin, Guy Ben-Ziony and many more.
Gilles Nehr was also the exclusive caretaker of the Juilliard School bow collection in New York City.
Website: www.gillesnehr.com
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This tutorial was filmed using a HD camera placed between the eyes and the hands of the craftsman for an easier yet a more accurate view.
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[@friedemannpods1867]

Priceless! I have been in the industry for 45 years and have learned and practiced two instrument making trades. Today I have learned so much, thank you Giles for the detailed and humorous instruction.

[@Jackestephan]

Dear Gilles, I know very well how much you gave effort and time to make those videos and specially the last one. I would like thank you for the positive vibes you have. Your videos with no doubt are the best out there, revealed detailed information and techniques never found on internet. The best thing in this life is to transfer the knowledge to the next generation, it is really useless to come and leave this world without giving. You are unlike many who decided to keep there trade secrets, i guarantee you that this will reflects lot of grace on your career. Thank you again for this great free courageous step you had taken to help the world with those videos. I will be waiting with impatience new episodes and new topics. Jack-Byblos

[@GillesNehr]

So lovely to read your message, Jack. Very touching and glad you feel that way. Thank you!

[@ong7578]

Thank you, fantastic. will be perfect if you can make a video how to making bow.

[@chriswillmanmusic]

Thank you, this is the most detailed and best Rehair videos on youtube by far.

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks a lot Chris!

[@rogervmantovani]

I going to try for the first time to rehear my violin bow and your videos were a lifesaver. From now on you are my favourite Luthier, perfectionist with details and also very funny. You are the best! Blessed you!

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you so much Roger!!!

[@mykofreder1682]

I have some cut off hair from a bow I got in a batch over eBay, and the batch also came with a short bow. I will do a rehair of that short bow first using the cut off hair, nothing to lose I will not seriously use the short bow. I will probably use a permeant marker to mark the knot position on the head, it probably will make putting the knot in the right place easier.

[@MrMicraphone]

I just picked up a nice cello for a good price and the bow was absolutely stretched probably three quarters of an inch I was able to reuse the same hair thanks to your video.. there was still about 90% of the original hairs on the bow.. I am very proud of myself that I was just able to complete that basically in the time while watching you do yours. Awesome ! I also run a horse rescue so.... 👍🏻

[@batcello]

before watching these videos: "How could anyone possibly charge $90 for a rehair?" After watching the videos: "How could anyone possibly charge only $90 for a rehair??!"

[@marthinusvanderwesthuizen4010]

It looks easy hey , there are many details involved that wasn't mentioned like the shape of the wedges and how they force the hair into a pocket from which it cannot be pulled. Books have been written about this very nigly procedure.

[@AndyF.-kq1cq]

The bow makers need money to continue their service for you!

[@barriereid9244]

Here in the UK it costs around 92 pounds sterling...not including postage.

[@kidicarus2637]

Thanks Master Bow Maker. Very informative. Also, loved the litte detours with the hooded minions.

[@bloomworks]

Merci Mr. Nehr!!! I have been repairing fretted instruments for 10 years and now I am starting to repair Bass Violins, Violins, Violas and Cellos. So far I have glued 3 Bass Violins (with Hide Glue), and it was very successful. And now, because of your videos, I was able to re-hair my daughter's 3/4 Violin Bow. This way I don't have to buy a new bow, because a re-hair costs more than a new bow. Your videos are excellent!! Merci millions fois!!

[@GillesNehr]

So nice to hear! Glad I could help thanks a lot for your message

[@littlebuddytoo]

Wonderful tutorial Gilles, thank you so much, I enjoy your patient soft spoken approach.

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks to you!

[@leoviolin1973]

Really love this tutorial. Thank you very much

[@jacquec.199]

😳..🤔.. I loved the dramatics behind the plug retrieval SOOOOOO much! 👏🙌🖖❤️🤣 Thank you for your awesome instructions! ❤️❤️❤️

[@TymurMelnyk]

THIS is quality bow rehair

[@colinellicott9737]

Fantastic teaching method, and personal touch. The best I've seen, and gives me confidence to try this myself. Thx

[@JeromeAdams-zu1zt]

Great series of rehair instructions. Success on my first try! Thank you!!!! Be well.

[@dougjackson6404]

Exceptional series of utube information. Thank you for the quality presentations-

[@user-tz8dr6ci1l]

Very helpful video. Thank you!

[@42myotis]

Fabulous videos! Your skill & experience is obvious. Thank you so much for sharing this with us.

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks a lot Jeffrey!

[@ginawalker5606]

Hoorayy!!! Just finished a bow from your method although the knot tying was a bind! Looking good! Half past 4 in the morning!! And I lost 2 hairs coa they where split ones! This bow I have worked on hasn't been rehaired from 1930! Iam now drinking some Vodka;lemonade. I love you for showing me how not to panick!!! When I can put a photograph up I will. Youv'e just earned me money, and now I look Gorgeous! Nearly as good as your blonde mate!!!! xxxxx

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks so much! Really happy and smiling reading your comment!!!

[@stephenchurchill3929]

A fantastic tutorial.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you Stephen!

[@chrismarlow5631]

Great video, I've been doing this for quite a long time & love it when I learn something new.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you Chris

[@AndSendMe]

Dear Gilles, thank you for this wonderful treasure. I have seen many methods of hairing a bow, with tricks to overcome or overthink the process. Yours is organic and pure, and comes with its own tests of success--fantastic!

[@GillesNehr]

That is really nice to hear! Thank you so much.

[@rajolkumarmishra3011]

EXCELLENT !!!👌 Demonstration . Thank you sir.

[@GillesNehr]

You are welcome

[@wildfeather]

Outstanding! I'm in tears of joy. Thank you so much. I have recently come to the idea of finishing at the tip, and voila! you came just at the right time. Looking forward to studying your other tutorials.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you Jeseppi!

[@josephmumar3273]

Excellent !!!thank you sir

[@alejandromezaj259]

Great Master,from México. Thankyou.

[@GillesNehr]

You are welcome!

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks. Very useful.

[@TomsTechniques]

Gilles, My wife recently brought out the viola she played through college and asked if there was anything I could do to make it playable again. I looked it over and all of the strings had failed through forty five years of storage and the sound post was rattling around inside, but he bridge was still present, hiding in the bottom of the case. Other than that, the instrument was in reasonable condition. What concerned me most was the hairless bow but I decided to attempt to get it all put back together for her and present it to her for Christmas. I started with the bow, since that would be the biggest challenge using your bow rehair series. Attaching the hair to the frog went well, but my knot came untied on the other end after the hair was trimmed to length. I suspect the thread I used wasn't synthetic, so the knot didn't lock with the flame. I didn't have time to order more hair, so I figured out a way to retie it and it worked out very well. The hair came out even and flat with no crossovers, so I was pleased and relieved. It took me an entire day to rehair the bow, so I should probably keep my day job, but it was a very rewarding learning experience. The big payoff was the smile of approval from my wife when she opened the case. :) Thank you for providing the videos. Tom

[@GillesNehr]

Dear Tom, I really appreciate your story I'm glad I could help! Thanks a lot. There are so many type of thread, some synthetic threads are terrible some are great. Important is the resistance but also that the thread grabs and doesn't slide. I tend to like the ones from Gütermann and the thicker is the thread the better.

[@MusicalJeanAz]

This has been very helpful. I have been rehairing bows for about 10 years and I have struggled with it off and on. It's good to watch how others do it and develop what works for you. Your method looks to be the best I have seen on KZbin. I like how you don't use a jig and start at the frog. I have tried both ways and found starting at the tip worked better for me but really it probably isn't better after watching your videos. Thanks for the video's. I think ⌚ them a few times will make the job easier for me in the long run.

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks a lot Jean! It's a pleasure reading your words

[@LuthieriaDomestica]

Excelente didática, na primeira tentativa deu certíssimo, muito obrigado ❤

[@andrewharmon7929]

Thank you so much for these excellent videos. I just built my first nyckelharpa bow, and the techniques you taught me were absolutely invaluable. One really needs three or four hands and a prehensile tail to tie the knots though. I am confident that I'll get the hang of it. I'm very pleased with my first effort, and can't wait until tomorrow when we see how it plays.

[@025842647]

Thank you very much. You did a wonderful and very accurate work. You gave me the knowledge of how to change the hair of the violin bow in a professional and accurate manner. Thanks again.

[@GillesNehr]

You're very welcome! Glad I could help

[@marcog4226]

Merci beaucoup de partager vos connaissances! J'attendais avec impatience de voir la quatrième vidéo!

[@GillesNehr]

Avec plaisir Marco! Merci pour votre patience

[@togmor]

This really was an excellent video, I certainly learned a lot from the way you went though it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and wisdom, plus I particularly loved the Russian dolls sequence!

[@superatech]

Thank you

[@season64]

Thank you very much!

[@bonenfant96]

Merveilleux.

[@200910maria]

merci beaucoup pour le video ...de Grèce . Excellent video et bien détaillé.!

[@leoviolin1973]

Your last words is very inspiring about improve your skill rather than using flame to remove loose hair. Best tutorial.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you!

[@JonathanFisherS]

Thank you for taking the time to make these! I hope monica didn't leave you ;)

[@GillesNehr]

thanks! actually Monica and I are getting married this summer :)

[@CristianHernandez-fo3td]

Gracias

[@nicolopaganini1608]

Bravo Et merci Craftsmanship

[@celiomarcosrodriguessousa3498]

muito bom obrigado😊

[@leoviolin1973]

Very good tutorial. As an amateur i used to rehair from tip to frog. I always get trouble to make equal tension on the hair since the problem usually came from the last knot. Now i'm trying to do it from the frog first. Thankyou

[@GillesNehr]

I hope you could manage to do it! How was the result?

[@rodotorrecillas2814]

de lo mejor que he visto!! tendras algun libro o informacion para compartir? medidas , materiales, etc. Thanks!!

[@mar-tes98]

Hi Maestro, very well done. Super job also funny at the same time.

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks a lot

[@edwardmarinorozco4596]

Muchas gracias por enseñarme arreglar el arco del violín de mi niña, un saludo desde Colombia

[@noureddineayssami5898]

Think you for aal ❤❤❤❤❤

[@hunterblakely87]

You're cinematic inserts are hilarious lol

[@JustFiddler]

Matur suksma😊

[@banjoist123]

I'm mostly a guitar/banjo luthier, but have restored violins as well. I think I have probably rehaired 8 or 10 bows. If its' possible, I think I am actually getting worse. I always have slack hairs. One thing I picked up in this video is to not put tension on the hank after you tie the knot. I have always done that, and maybe it's why I always have slack hair! Merci pour l'aide!

[@GillesNehr]

You're welcome! You're right no need for tension on the hank

[@davebhg]

All four videos are very good, and demonstrate all parts of the process clearly. 2nd or 3rd time through I started to pick up on some of the detail, like the double knot at the tip end to start tying the hair. Just one question - is the channel cut with the gouge on the bottom of the wedge to allow space for the whole length of the knot? On my first attempt at the standing up method, the wedge fitted well without the hair, but kept popping out with the hair. I think it may have been that the knot was too long - that is longer than the height of the groove. Thank you

[@GillesNehr]

Hello Dave, the channel indide the head plug is not made to allow the whole length of the knot. As you suggested, your knot might be too long. Some mortise also are very short inside the head and if your plug pops out your plug could be also be too short or too high?

[@Ogareno]

Hello! I have rehaired bows for about 1,5 years now - I have come by several bows where the flat part of the ferrule has been bent, as you mention in part 3 probably by cause of an excessively thick spreading wedge from a previous rehair. Is there a safe way to "straighten" the bent ferrule?

[@merlijnbaron570]

Merci bien! I'll need some time to perfect the technique, but I just did my first bow and I can play again! What to do with the first time putting rosin on the bow? Now the sound is not evenly over the whole bow.

[@earlystrings1]

Maitre, thank you so much. This is a wonderful document of the Mirecourt technique that is worth watching over and over, and not just for Monica. I have two questions: When tying the knot at the head, why not use the same bench screw to hold the thread? Also, it looks as though you insert the hank into the tip with the knot pointing down (perpendicular to the face plate) rather than lying flat at the bottom of the mortise (parallel to the face plate). Is that a Mirecourt thing? Maybe I'm not seeing correctly.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you Thomas! Should I bring back Monica to my new videos that is my question!? We should do a vote :) You are correct the knot is pointing down (vertical). You often have deeper mortise than it is large. It depends of each mortise. The more angles the more chance to have some uneven band of hair. That's concern the method of rehairing starting from the frog. I believe, if you see a knot that is horizontal inside the mortise it should be from someone using the "head first" rehair technique. Then you can choose vertically or horizontally to place your knot depending of how deep/large is the mortise. As for the bench screw, it would be not convinient. You need your eyes to be above the bow's head and the hair. And because the frog is attached to the bow and the hair needs to be in tension, that would means that the bow should be bellow the bench screw and this you can't do. Or you would need to reverse the tension of the thread to upwards instead of downwards and this would be really difficult to make a knot that way.

[@nohandleXD]

I had broken my bow while playing, and thought i'd have to pay to get it repaired. Turns out I just had to take it apart, put the wooden thingy in with the bow hair, then assemble it again. Thanks!

[@GillesNehr]

I'm glad I could help!

[@aaasilva6149]

hi man, your videos are the best, i have a doubt please, when you attach the hair on the head you put it straight or you fold the tip inside the hole like you do in the frog ? best regards

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks! I don't put it the way like inside the frog. I place it straight (downwards) inside the mortise. Good luck! Best

[@kwt890]

Thanks so much for this series! I can't believe I've rehaired both my bows so easily! One question: What is the music at the beginning of your videos?? I really want the sheet music!

[@GillesNehr]

Glad you made it with the rehairs! The music is the Andante (third movement) from Bach’s A minor sonata.

[@theodorechan8665]

Excellent video series, Gilles. A question; when you tie the first knot, you make only a half knot to start, wind, and then a full knot to finish. When you tie the second knot, you make a full knot, wind, and then another full knot. Any reason?

[@GillesNehr]

Hi Theodore, you are right. Good eyes! If some hairs are sliding a bit when making the first knot that has not much importance. What matters is that the finished knot is strong and no hair could slide.For the second knot, each hair should be in his exact position and not slide at all during the knot making. For that I make right away a knot to secure the hairs in place and none could move during making tat knot.

[@saberanouar]

❤

[@JesseMaw]

Hi Gilles, wonderful videos! What temperature water do you soak the hair in? I have been rehairing using a salt and pepper hair lately, and it seems to be drying rather quickly

[@GillesNehr]

Hi Jesse, thanks you! I use room temperature water.

[@Ofearghail7]

Absolutely brilliant! Please excuse the question but is the bottom /end of the hair touching the bottom of the mortise or the back wall? I will be trying this method and want to do it right. Again, thank you for the fantastic videos.

[@GillesNehr]

Thank you Sean! The bottom is what you aim for.

[@dwightbrown2808]

This needs more Monica!!

[@GillesNehr]

I so agree with that. Tell her!

[@juliejules7780]

That super dramatic part where you found the Russian doll was weird and funny. I thought I was on different video. It looks like it could be a real horror movie. Haha

[@GillesNehr]

Haha I hope I didn't scare you. I did this with my wife and kids and we had a lot of fun. I like to make these little cuts inside my tutorial videos so people can take a small rest :)

[@juliejules7780]

Gilles Nehr it was actually terrifying and good. I think you missed your calling as a movie producer. 😂

[@GillesNehr]

lol

[@sammybloehe1579]

To be honest, I was really frightened 😣😣😣

[@patrickclark223]

what type of chisel did you use for the plugs? I've tried looking for round chisels, but I can't find that style

[@meisenman]

I found mine at Woodcrafters. In any case, the brand is Flexcut, part FR409: #11 x 3/16” (5mm) Palm Gouge.

[@petergeorgy4336]

Thanks a lot for the tutorial it’s really helpful Just a question I need very fine hair not a rough one as I used several ones after my luthier died but they weren’t as soft as the one he made me they make a light scratch noise So where can I buy a fine hair Thanks

[@GillesNehr]

Hi Peter, do you know if the hair was Siberian, Mongolian perhaps?

[@robertroudman5267]

Robert Roudman 1 month ago Thank you very much for your detailed explanations. I wish to become competent enough to re-hair the bows for my daughters middle school students. Thanks to your wonderful videos I am making progress using the many student bows that she has collected in need of re-hairing. One of the issues that I am having is in getting the knot to lay flat in the head/tip mortise so that I can press in the plug, it requires a 90 degree bend in the hair. In your video you say to put the knot into the mortise. This looks to be done without effort by you, where I need to struggle to get the knot to lie flat at the bottom of the mortise, the struggle is to get and maintain the 90 degree bend. In looking closer at the video, It almost seems that that the plug itself forces the knot to lie flat at the bottom of the mortise as it causes the hair to bend the 90 degrees as the plug becomes solidly wedged. Is there a step that I am missing? Thank you. Hopefully one of these days I will be able to re-hair my daughter's professional bows...but that I a long way off....

[@robertroudman5267]

After reading the comments and replies my question seems to be answered. When the hair is positioned in the bottom of the head mortise and the plug press in it would seem that the knot would be forced into an angle about 40 degs or so, where it becomes positioned partially in the gouged out groove in the bottom of the head plug. It is my understanding that the plug itself does not need to "bottom out" in the mortise, just pressed in far enough to secure the knotted end against the bottom..while also pressing the hair up against the front of the mortise. A clearance of about 1 mm at the back becomes the clearance for the hair at the front, the clearance determines the amount of pressure that maintains the hair in place..Hope I am catching onto the idea....Thank you for your excellent master class.

[@GillesNehr]

Dear Robert, thank you for your patience. First of all, there is only one bent. The knot does not have to lay flat on the bottom. The tip of the the knot should look down to the bottom of the mortise. It doesn't even have to touch the bottom at all. Think of the plug pushing the hair right after the knot, not the knot, to the front of the mortsie, not the bottom. When we have trouble to put the head plug and we know our plug is well cut, it is mostly because the mortise is too small, not deep enough, the knot can't go down inside and there is no room left for the plug. The truth about bows is the most expensive bow you work on, the best mortise you'll meet and it's just pleasure puttin that plug. Cheaper is the bow or coming for not such a good maker, more you'll find bad shaped or too small mortise and you'll have much more trouble putting a plug inside. If the bow is not of a master, I personaly will reshape the mortise the right way. It is too dangerous to ask you to do so because I don't want you to injure yourself or the bow. The answer is that some mortise are just impossible to work without loosing hair (from your own head). Bad mortise don't go to Heaven. If not retouching that terrible mini mortise you need to make a thinner and thinner plug, using more of that gauge for carving the center of the plug.

[@robertroudman5267]

@@GillesNehr Dear Gilles, thank you very much for this master class . I appreciate your additional comments which have given me a very clear picture of what is required for a first rate re-hair. While I had practiced many hours with "used hair" and made well over 100 plugs, I never attempted the job with new hair until reading your additional comments. My first attempt with new hair came out very good with a very nice band and the head plug in solidly. I am very pleased with the job. With more bows I know that the work will only become better and more efficient. I made a bench mounted fixture, a small tower structure, that raises the thread anchor screw above the bench so I do not need to hold thread in by teeth. It allows me to see the "mark" on the ivory and at the same time to pull very tight knots. On these student bows I have had to rework and refine all of the frog mortises. Most plugs were glued in. Since these are inexpensive bows I will probably attempt to rework the head mortises if they are just to shallow to do the job with out glue or very thin plugs. The problems that they present certainly have been good for my re-hairing education. If I attempt to work on a quality bow I am certain to be shocked by how much easier things progress. My daughter is a professional cellist with several symphonies and maybe one day I will do the re-hair for her, but in the mean time I can help out her strings class students with their bows. (BTW she really likes the looks of those Tête-Bêche bows, it would go nice with her 1904 Georges Mougenot cello). I hope some day that you write a how to book on all aspects of the bow, from creation to re-hairing and maintenance, I have not found many good books out there.. You are an excellent teacher, it is easy to tell that you love your work. You instill this in we your students. Thank you again.

[@robertroudman5267]

After re-hairing a multitude of student bows, I just completed my first professional quality bow played by a professional cellist, she loved it. She needs a bow re-hair every 3 months, since she is my daughter I have my work cut out...All this thanks to you Gilles. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWKZmZlnrryCbbc

[@moinmohazzab1159]

totally great! many thanks. could you please tell me what wood should be used for the plugs? and what thread do you recommend for binding the hairs as well?

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks! The wood type for the plugs should be or similar to maple. For the thread I would say strongest as possible. I personally use a 100% polyester thread which is very resistant and melting well when burned but I'm sure there are more resistant thread too you could find. I heard some people use also fish line. You should check video #1 of this tutorial concerning the plug and video #2 concerning the knot and thread to have more details.

[@moinmohazzab1159]

thank you Mr. Nehr for sharing your experience. Nett von Ihnen.

[@GillesNehr]

You're welcome. I'm glad I can help. My German isn't that bad as I could understand what you wrote :) Greetings from France

[@ginawalker5606]

I used dental floss! Works honestly! x

[@CarvedTop]

Hello Gilles, First, I want to say that your 4 part series on the bow rehair is excellent. I really appreciate the level lf detail you provided, and your sense of humor😆 I’m going to attempt to rehair some bass bows that I have, and I have a question about how much hair I need to use. You mentioned that the cello bow would be 7.1 grams, so how much more should the bass bow have? Great videos! Ray Kallas

[@GillesNehr]

Hello Ray thanks so much! I don't have a special amount written unfortunately for bass bow. Before I used to measure and how I learned as an apprentice is to compare how much hair you have in your hands with how large is the ferrule. Not easy without showing you but basically you spread the hair to the width on the ferrule (you make a band of hair) and check if it's enough hair or too thin or too much. You have to judge with your eyes. Once you get a really nice amount you can then measure it write it somewhere and use graduation next time. I hope that is understandable :)

[@CarvedTop]

Gilles Nehr Thanks Gilles! I’ll give that a try.

[@robertroudman5267]

@@CarvedTop Gilles' suggestion to use a hair gauge works very well and is fairly easy to use, and serves as a reliable point of reference. You can make one yourself, it requires a 1 mm slot in a thin stable piece of material. As reference I measure the hair that I take from the frog on a re-hair, this will give you a sample of the previous amount used a good reference.

[@federicoandre5717]

@@robertroudman5267 I know these comments are a little old, but when I made my gauge, I just bought a very cheap putty knife, stabilized it on some wood scraps, and simply cut it with a hack saw. Then I used fine sand paper to make sure there were no rough edges in the channel that could cut the hair. Finally, I rounded the corners and smoothed out any edges outside. So far, it has worked fine and it was only about $2 (as opposed to $25 that you pay for the gauge, and that's if you order a cheap one form Amazon)

[@rbeehner2]

How did the yellow thread turn black? Did you ever harvest the bow shank from the garden? Couldn't hear about cleaning the bow hair assume water only. Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship, it is appreciated.

[@GillesNehr]

I could harvest the bow shank and it has now three little babies sticks. That yellow thread was actually not for making knot, it is pure silk and used for the winding. But the black thread on the black background was just invisible. The yellow worked much better! Yes cold water ONLY don't even think of using any soap. Unless you drop your hair in some mud or oil, there is no real reaon to want to clean it. They do use chemical to clean the hair before we buy it in bundle, but it has no bad effect on sound or rosin. We're not going to eat it. Soak the hair in water like shown on the video for at least 10 minutes when inside the frog.

[@joseluisortegasanchez8623]

Ojalá y estuviera también en español...o con subtítulos...aún así son excelentes los videos...

[@GillesNehr]

Si. Gracias. I am working on having spanish subtitles :)

[@edwardpacman7082]

Thanks. I will use cheap hair and cheap bow to practice.

[@mplsmark222]

Edward, The problem with cheap bow/hair to learn on is it can be much harder to get good results. Fine bows and quality hair make the whole process go more smoothly. I have been doing bow work for 30 years, I find crappy bows are still challenging. My advice is to get the best quality hair you can and as far as the bow, A Codabow are good quality and the whole process is the same as it is with a wood bow. If you want to work with a wood bow to learn on, I have found Knoll bows easy to work with, Learning in a good bow will help build confidence, and when it’s time to work on cheap, weak and bows with little camber, you will see how much a difference the bow makes.

[@yosoyelkoch]

Hello, at 11:55 you are making the knot with a yellow thread/strand, but at 12:05 we can see that the yellow strand has turned black. Does this mean that you also burned the other side, and applied rosin while burning the knot? (burning process from the last part of 2nd video). Thank you,

[@GillesNehr]

Hello, I used the yellow thread only to be more visible on the video. That yellow thread is of silk and not strong enough to make knots. After shooting the sequence, I removed the yellow thread, switched back to my strong black thread and made the knot again (off video). Both knots are made of my black thread.

[@icclionel490]

What should I know more after seeing this video? It covers all. I tried once to start from the head to frog but I gave up suddenly. Fortunately had enough hair to put it from frog to head. I use the thread i bought from DICTUM. Is it all right? Seems a little thicker to me. You did a great job and extremely useful. Thanks!

[@GillesNehr]

Thanks a lot! It is perfectly fine you did good to order the thread from there.

[@kannimanga567]

Please help🙏 i keep on forgetting to loosen the bow and the the fron it the hir got unattached🙏please help me we dont have enough money to buy a new one help me plewse your my only hope. 🙏

[@meisenman]

This is a very helpful series of videos, Gilles; thank you. Regarding this particular video, after you mark the depth of the mortise on the ivory, it appears that you begin to tie your knot at the mark and continue towards the mortise. However, it seems that one should begin past the mark and end at the mark, which would be where the hair would bend beneath the plug. Where do you start your knot? Also, the video makes it appear that you do not lay the knot in the bottom of the mortise, parallel to the plug; rather, standing up. In this way, the hair has only one bend, where it exits the mortise. When I lay the knot parallel to the plug (as in the frog), the hair has two bends, with more length on the outside of the bend, which I must accommodate. Can you clarify? I believe that your frog-to-tip method makes more sense than the traditional method, and I want to do it correctly. (I am attempting to do it on a bow at this moment, and I am at the point of finishing the tip end.) Thanks again.

[@GillesNehr]

Hello Michael, thank you for your message. Maybe because of the angle from the camera you see I start on the the mark but you are correct one should begin past the mark and end on the mark which should be the good length for average weather temperature and humidity. Like you say, I do not lay the knot at the bottom of the mortise but vertically until the knot touches the bottom of the mortise. I learned it that way, but you have indeed to make knots that are strong without being too long. That way you have precise knowledge of how much hair length is inside the mortise. Which will be exactly the distance you reported marking the tip. Michael, I have to correct your sentence: quote "your frog-to-tip method makes more sense than the traditional method". That is the opposite. This technique is the true old school Mirecourt technique. The head to frog method appeared later on as an "easier" rehairing method. I am bringing back tradition here :)

[@meisenman]

Gilles, I used the mark as you specified, but somehow the hair was still too long, and I had to lay it under the plug. It was a troublesome experience, but I got it all together, and there are no crossed hairs. It looks really good, and I will continue to practice this-not your-technique. Thanks for all your advice and your delightful and funny videos. When I travel to France, I‘d love to visit your workshop.

[@GillesNehr]

Sorry for your trouble Michael. Over time you will know exactly where to start your knot. Temperature, humidity but also strength of the stick, are factors to decide how long the hair will be. With too short rehair, the only possibility would have been to cut and redo the whole rehair from start. You have manage well to find a solution :)

[@samsam3499]

I rehair bows on the north part of Vancouver Island. Your video is one of the best rehair video I've seen. Well done.

[@GillesNehr]

thank you John! It made me check out Vancouver Island's photos... wow it looks absolutely stunning!

[@MegaPippopluto]

uff...

[@infinitepawer]

Sorry to say may be it had been mention in the video but i really having a hard time to understand the accent so here i have to ask why put the comb with the hair while do that tighten job ?? So the hair wont get loose that easy ?? At the moment 2 things are extremely difficult for me after 2 attempts. 1) Make head plug which fit like yours without any gap 2) No hanging or crossing hair after whole things are done. But i have to say this rehair thing is fun. Thanks again for the tutorial .. By the way any suggestion if i plan to purchase wedge & plug online ?? You see am not a full time luthier so i lack of all this woodso have to get it from somewhere .. one of the local luthier nearby me dont mind to give me some since i use to buy violin string or bridge from him but he dont sell it. And i did craft my own bridge again & again (more than 10 bridges) for about 2 years and it fun too .. i wonder do you make tutorial about how to craft violin bridge ?? Again, thank you so much for this rehair tutorial. Have a great everyday.

[@GillesNehr]

"may be it had been" - "I really having". Please use correct spelling before making fun of my accent :D

[@fredvictor6890]

Fantastique tutoriel ! en tant que français je regrette amèrement de pas avoir les commentaires en french ... un explication au début sur comment retirer correctement une mèche usée serait bienvenue. Anyway, merci beaucoup Maestro.

[@GillesNehr]

Je comprends.Il fallait trancher avec la langue et l'anglais est plus accessible pour un plus grand nombre. Une video sur comment retirer la mèche est en cours de préparation. Merci à vous Fred.

[@eneasmarchezoni4635]

I'm sorry, what is this powder that you use in the video?

[@GillesNehr]

It's rosin power

[@AlejandroParis]

A suggestion and a question: Suggestion: push the comb into the hair diagonally at first, to get as many "arms" of the comb among the hairs, and then turn it perpendicular. You will spread the hair way more, and the result will be more precise. Question: why is using fire at the end bad? I though it was a rather widespread procedure.

[@Adrian_AdamViolonDiGerma-tm3nq]

This is tradition. Burning rosin powder at the end of the hairbow that has been tied attaches the ends of each hairbow strand to one another, So that the tied hairbow does not shift from the knot if one day the hairbow is accidentally pulled/tensioned so that the hairbow becomes loose. Using glue is feared that the hairbow will become stiff and break When blocked with a plug

[@AlejandroParis]

@@Adrian_AdamViolonDiGerma-tm3nq I meant using fire to shorten the loose hairs and make them tighter at the end of the process

[@violinsheetmusicblog]

What tools do you use and where can I buy them?

[@GillesNehr]

You should check online Dictum they have pretty much everything you need.

[@infinitepawer]

Hi i have 2 questions about rehair. 1. Is it ok for a rehair to appear to have few big gap that can see thru?? I mean those new hair dont seen to close with each other. 3. Should the hair put more in one side than the other according to which side player use to tilt their bow ?? TQ.

[@GillesNehr]

Hello Mr Potato. Answer to your question (1) is on the video part 2 at 4 min 24 s ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4aXp2OPq713atU ). Answer to (2): it is not ok it should be perfectly even. Watch video part 3 at 7 min 47 s ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnq5cn2ojc5kibM ). If you see gap on the video above it is because the hair are wet. This will go away after drying. Answer to (3): Yes you could do this by breaking the angle of the wedge to have more hair going to the playing side. Watch video part 3 at 6 min 54 s ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnq5cn2ojc5kibM ).

[@infinitepawer]

Hi sorry i cant get very clear about what you say in this video .. is it clean water is good enough to blend the hair ?? No need to clean the hair with something else ?? Even if the hair is from China ?? Also whats the reason to wet it for at least 10mins ?? Is it thicker hair need longer time ?? I myself an amateur violin player from asia and just started to rehair my own bow ... gonna to have lot of questions to ask. Thanks first & sorry for the trouble.

[@lautenmacher]

I cannot understand why in the first video you put the gap for hair on the opposite side when making the plug for the tip. I'm going to do my first rehair and just cut my first plugs with your guidance. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos.

[@GillesNehr]

It must be a misunderstanding because the two plugs are identical. Could you be more precise? Good luck for your first rehair!

[@lautenmacher]

Gilles Nehr at 6:19 in your first video cutting the plugs, you say the head plug needs to be shorter. You cut it shorter on the opposite side where the hair will go. I would have thought to cut it shorter on the side the hair will go, in the effort to not put too much pressure on the head when putting it together. Thanks

[@GillesNehr]

Now I understand your question. The back of the plug is the part that will fix how much pressure the front (side where the hair goes) of the plug will have on the hair. You want to have no gap at all. Retouching the front of your plug would end-up making the front of that plug narrower and risk of having hair not held on its side. You made the perfect width and angle of the front of your plug before and do not want to retouch that part. Unless you made a mistake and made a too wide plug.

[@lautenmacher]

thanks so much. I think I get it now. I had better hurry and get this done so I don't lose these tiny pieces. I don't have a tiny Russian doll to hold them for me:)

[@momo1797]

Thank you for the nice videos! I have a question: Why isn't it good to use an alcohol flame to shrink some to long hairs in the end? For example in the video "Florian Leonhard bow rehairing" they make a premium quality with this technique!? Byebye

[@joyfulnoise2477]

I had learned to comb the hair from the ends and work up. It seems to work better for getting tangles out.

[@GillesNehr]

It's not the first time that you are making negative comments on my videos. You write bad comments, you delete them. Why are you watching my videos, to find negative things? I'm just trying to help people. I make these videos out of my free time. I know social media is handy cause you could be anonymous. but be polite let me know who you are and what do you do in life? This will help to understand your behaviour. Thank you.

[@joyfulnoise2477]

@@GillesNehr I am sorry for my first comment. (I had hoped you hadn't seen it!) I deleted it because I realized it was unfair criticism, especially after watching more of your videos. I've continued watching your videos because they are very informative and well-done, as well as entertaining and creative. I only posted the above comment because I watched you struggle through combing out the knots and I thought it might be helpful, and not as a criticism. Sorry, I should have worded it better. My name is Joy. I am a repair tech in the USA for over 35 years, mostly brass and woodwinds, because the rural area where I now live has no orchestras. However, now with covid, stringed instruments are taking the place of wind instruments in the schools and privately, so I needed to brush up on my string instrument repair skills. You are obviously very good at your work, and I appreciate that you go to the extra effort of making videos to share. Thank you for that and keep up the outstanding work! And I will be more uplifting in my comments from now on!

[@GillesNehr]

@@joyfulnoise2477 you have to realise some people (like me) follow a long line of master to student techniques that was chosen for generations to be better and with reason why we do it one way and not another. Sometimes humility is a way to go even if tempted to give advices. I will personally not come to you and "try to help" you about your work on woodwinds & brass that I personally wasn't trained for. I receive often "help" & "tips" from people who do not have the skills of a master bow maker. Haters also who enjoy putting a thumb down without saying why and who they are. Internet "trolls" with bad comments making not much sense unless to annoy. It's why when people make a critic it has to be serious, technical and open to discussion and not just a waist of time and energy. You made that comment that for some reason you deleted. But when I read it I took it seriously and as you can see I removed the - humour - clips inside of part1 and part2 of this tutorial because of you and you felt hurt by it. Took me hours to search the internet and learn how to cut a KZbin video without deleting it (keeping views and comments). Did you admit it was a good response from me? No, you didn't mention it you moved to another critic of my videos and it is why I got upset. Cheers.

[@joyfulnoise2477]

​@@GillesNehr Once again, I apologize. I never had a need to go back to re-watch that video, so was unaware that you had changed it until I just now read this message. I appreciate that you did that. I can feel more comfortable with encouraging my young female apprentice to watch the video. I'm pretty sure I didn't put a thumb down on that video because I was very impressed with the information you gave. I'll check to make sure I didn't. I understand your umbrage at people critiquing or giving advice on your videos. I'm sure I'd feel the same way. Take care and keep up the masterful work!

[@viol999]

I was taught to re-hair from the frog to the tip. Once I interviewed at a violin shop as a bow re-hairer and when they saw me hair the bow from the frog the owner and resident bow repairer both looked at each other and rolled their eyes. needless to say I didn't get a job.

[@GillesNehr]

OMG so sorry for you! In Europe starting from the frog is very common and specially in France. I believe you had to find work in the US? Luckily when I worked in New York René Morel was born in Mirecourt. Even if, for the little story, he actually had learn to rehair in the States starting from the head. He was a Master violin maker and restaurer but concerning bow rehair it was his weak point but he knew of course about the French technique (starting from the frog). When I entered the workshop there were not too many rehairs to do and the rest of the time I could make bows. But people started to bring more and more bows to rehair until I was just doing rehair and restauration all day long. That's actually why I decided to open my own workshop in Manhattan: to make more and do less repairs.

[@mplsmark222]

I have been repairing and rehairing bows for 30 years and am fascinated by seeing other’s system of rehairing. I learned to rehair from frog to tip and struggled mightily for a year or so. Talking to another luthier he mentioned working from tip to frog. It was a revelation. It really doesn’t matter which way it is done provided one gets good results. I started over, changed my jig and learned new techniques. It took awhile but things improved and have using this system since. The ease and outcome of a rehair is greatly influenced by the quality of the bow you are working on and the quality of the hair. A weak, twisted bow with no or little chamber is always harder to get right then a quality bow. Kinky, twisted and low grade hair makes thing harder. One of the worse things is to try to put too much hair in the bow and putting the hair in backwards. Old end goes in the tip! Of course getting the length correct is important and the thread tight as well. Anyone that does rehairing lives in fear of the thread slipping and the hair falling out. It’s the worst, and if it happens you will never get another chance with that customer. Anyone attempting this work without training should be very cautious, it is very easy to damage the stick head and frog, especially if you don’t have the proper tools and jigs to support the stick and frog.

[@Jijo2003]

13:23 hahahaa 😂

[@GillesNehr]

:D

[@sakaomer]

Uzun bir video

[@timli8146]

What the hell is that cinematic music that appears at 13:05?????????

[@ioana938]

He buried the Matrioshka containing the plug he made in the 1st video... To be retrieved later in the "plug retrieval" sequence later on. His way of telling you to not loose that piece!

[@SJWBach]

the way i learned to rehair a bow is a little bit different and maybe better: you do't put the wedge in the frog before you have the hair attached to the head. before you attach it, you have to comb it from the frog to the end of the hair. than you make the knot and attach it to the head. after that you can comb the remaining imperfections into the frog and it will not make a big dfference because the hair is already very staright and after you put the wedge inside the frog and you got absolutely perfectly straight hair outside the frog and almost perfect if not perfectly straight hairs inside the frog too so it doesn't affect the distribution of the hair at the ferrule. but i guess if you are good enough the technique in the video will do exactly the same

[@GillesNehr]

Basically there are two techniques: The "traditional Mirecourt" technique, which I teach in these videos and the technique you are using. Like I explain in this tutorial, you are combing from a frog without a wedge (spreader) and the band of hair is not as large. It is better to comb the hair from a larger and stable band of hair, meaning from a frog that has already a wedge (spreader).

[@SJWBach]

that actually makes more sence, than combing a smaller band and than spreading it. Thank you for helping me out(I have to rehair my bow in near future so I will probably end up with a better rehair) merci beaucoup, anselm herkstroeter

[@GillesNehr]

you're welcome let me know how it goes

[@SJWBach]

i will, i'm just waiting for my new hair...

[@happyhonker123]

I have used both ways and Gilles' way is actually easier and better for me. Spreading to frog is very difficult especially if the hair is tight. After 10 years of rehairing head to frog I have finally changed and I wonder why I suffered so much for a decade. Same with violin making, some prefer doing the outside arching first then the inside, some prefer the other way around. Both have merits depending what you want to achieve. I enjoy learning from various masters because they have all figured out their own technique and there's always something new to learn

[@fredvictor6890]

I tried to download these very good vidéos to keep them safely but no way with 4/4 ! don't know why... thanks anyway Gilles NEHR

[@GillesNehr]

Really? That's strange you couldn't download the last one. Sorry about that.

[@fredvictor6890]

Finalement j'ai pu télécharger 4/4, merci encore et...moi aussi je comprends... le choix de l'anglais, no souci ;)

[@masteryukie9701]

I got my violin today and i already broken something ;-;

[@GillesNehr]

One hair? :)

[@chaselee86]

The Russian dolls hold the secret of making a great bow!

[@fannybuster]

Its been said that you should never touch the bow hairs with your naked hands, Should you wear rubber gloves while repairing the bow hairs..?

[@GillesNehr]

That's true but it would be more correct to say "you should never touch the bow hairs if you didn't wash your hands". Not touching the hair is too avoid greasy area on the hair where the rosin won't grab. Clean your hands with soap before to rehair a bow is enough and safe.

[@nadia974berive]

Bonjour Auriez vous une version Française ? Cordialement

[@GillesNehr]

Bonjour, hélas non mais il serait possible de traduire avec sous-titres

[@nadia974berive]

Merci pour la qualité de vos vidéos

[@user-vs7ml1nv4n]

Матрёшка !super

[@marielafleur6978]

vous êtes de langue Française ? SVP je serais intéressée d'un avis . je travaille sur d'anciennes déco de sapin de Noël qui étaient faites avec des fibres de verre qui sont exactement comme vos crins . donc il me faut les coller et j'utilse de la colle d'os . pour faire des mèches ...comme vous ça va . Mais je dois aussi faire ...des cercles et bien réguliers et là c'est mon plus gd problème . si vs êtes intéressé de voir à m'aider je vs dirai plus . merci .

[@GillesNehr]

Bonjour Mitsouko, la colle d'os est bien. Peut-être pourriez-vous, si vos cercles sont grands, enrouler vos mèches autour d'un ballon de baudruche. Puis appliquer la colle d'os. Ensuite, quand la colle a séchée, vous éclatez le ballon.

[@marielafleur6978]

@@GillesNehr merci beaucoup pour votre réponse et attention . votre idée est lumineuse . mais ça ne ...colle pas à mon pb. en fait mes cercles à faire sont comment dire . des disques . comme des CD voyez vous . jusqu'ici je mets un pt de colle au centre sur une surface fin papier ou dernièrement verre puis je pose des mèches et je dois étaler pour faire ce disque . mais la colle refroidit ... les mèches se déplacent et la régularité se perd . je dois recouper aux ciseaux . ça ne me satisfait pas . autrefous c était régulier . j'ai eu des instructions de la fille du dernier 'fabricant'décédé . mais je n ai pas tout le 'secret '.. je suis la dernière à vouloir continuer . bon je vs embête . mais vs regardant j'ai pensé que le peigne pourrait m'aider . comment ? je dois retravailler dessus faire des essais . merci ! bon si une autre idée lumineuse vs vient je suis preneuse ......

[@ademsirin123]

Hii.you rub my oil on the hairs???

[@juliejules7780]

My bow hairs have become stretched out. I hope I can figure out how to shorten the bow hairs without taking it into a shop. Haha I'll probably ruin it though.

[@GillesNehr]

Yes you can! :) Just remove the head plug, make a hair knot right after the old one (almost touching). Cut the old knot, burn and glue the extremity like on my video. Than (best would be to make a new head plug) put the hair inside the head and the plug. Voilà ;)