How to REMOVE HEADLIGHT OXIDATION Without a Sander or Drill! | 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe

[@siphamehloSIBIYA]

I was thinking of making a headlight restoration business in my city after i noticed many cars needs this service. I don't know how to restore headlights but now I'm confident since i found this channel i will be able to provide this service 🔥🔥🔥

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Hi Tygon! Thats great to hear! Its a very good business to be in, and I'm happy we can inspire and help you to start the business!

[@ravenlunatic7026]

I love this whole video and your method, very well done! But I have neither the time nor the patience to work the program. I have seen that there are light lens replacement covers that you can buy, what are your thoughts on those? Thanks!

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Thank you! I wouldn't recommend replacing the lens itself. Once it comes off, its very difficult to reseal. Meaning unless you are extremely experienced, 90% of the time you'll develop water intrusion, condensation etc. Restoring is always faster, and more cost efficient.

[@coreycoley72]

Are you spray water out of the clear spray bottle then sanding it down???

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Yes, just water. It removes debris from in-between the sandpaper, ensuring constant sanding, and also allows me to see my progress in real time.

[@coreycoley72]

What grit of sandpaper do u recommend I use on a 2007 vehicle that has never had this done to it???

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

@@coreycoley72 It Depends, what kind of vehicle is it?

[@coreycoley72]

It's a 2007 Hyundai Santa fe

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

@@coreycoley72 You can start with 400 grit to remove all the oxidation and other imperfections.

[@lancemoney1903]

is it necessary to go higher from the 600 grit??

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Hi Lance! It all depends on your method. If you are using the kits from the site, no. 600 is the highest you go.

[@grandmastert01]

I am loving the paper dispenser you suggested just wish it didnt cost so much ….lol

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Its a time saver!

[@Btnkorai86]

I want to know the spray name and the paper details plz..

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

The spray is from nextgenheadlightsolutions.com. Use coupon code "SRH" for $15 off a single kit if you only need one. The paper is from Lowes in the Tape section

[@grandmastert01]

Hi Brad , I’m going nuts trying to figure out why I’m still seeing scratches. You can’t see them after about 18” but 8” away you can see them. Please I need some advice. Just did a junk car headlights with 400, 600,800,1000,2000 3000 trizak on a polisher, meguiars polishing cream on a orange foam pad, meguiars spray then a Cerokote ceramic wipe. The wipe actually helped a lot but I still see them. Maybe the answer is your spray because it has fillers ?. Maybe I’m over sanding with the 400 I don’t know. 1 headlight I spent 45 minutes on.

[@MichaelBrianInc]

Not sure why you’re using a ceramic wipe on top of the Meguairs clear coat... But moving on... It’s your technique. However you’re leaving out details as to how you’re sanding. Are you using just your fingers or do you have a pad between your hand and the sand paper? How much pressure are you using? How long are you sanding during the very first step with the 400? Hmm ... maybe this can help... wet sand horizontally with the 400 grit and then go vertical with the 600. Maybe this will help you visually... So when you go vertical, you are now seeing your horizontal scratches disappearing. Then with the 800 go horizontal again.. Somewhere you may or may not be over sanding and not properly deleting them with the next step. Also, are you speaking of scratches you have made or are these markings from before you touched the headlight? There’s a lot of factors that play in to this, and you need to be patient. It’s a skill and skills need time, practice, patience to develop. If scratches are left behind from sanding then it’s your technique and there’s a flaw in one of your steps. Take your time with it. Stop skipping ahead thinking you need to rush through a job. If it takes two hours to complete one headlight then who cares?? Especially if it’s a practice headlight and not a customers... The clear coat has zero to do with the skill of sanding. Don’t jump steps! If you jump to a clear coat that has fillers then you’re truly cheating yourself as the technician. To become a professional on all levels it takes time. Even myself... I’ve had five solid customers under my belt and have done well with each project. There were two vehicles I wish I knew more about to do the job way better but I got through it. That was my second customer and it took me five hours to complete both cars wet sanding etc... My last two customers were a breeze thus far but I’m sure I’ll run in to challenges unfamiliar in the future. The longer you sand on the first step, the deeper your scratches tend to be and you’ll have to spend more time deleting them on higher grit levels. It’s important to recognize or know how to recognize when you’ve gotten all oxidation and clear coat off. First step can take anywhere between five to ten minutes wet sanding. At least this is what I’ve come to see for myself and watching videos in real time. It all depends on what grit, coating hardness, skill level, etc... Also, you need to keep in mind that medium to softer lights requires less sanding vs harder clear coats. This can help you determine how quickly you may be able to sand through. Inspect your work more often if you need to as you sand.

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

@@MichaelBrianInc Great advice That dude!

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Hi Tom, don't watch the video I just posted about the worst scratches haha. So as what That Dude said, there are a lot factors that come into play. Remember, it doesn't take too much to remove the oxidization, and it sounds like you may be sanding at lower grits for too long. I'd experiment and start with 800 and go up. You may be sanding a little bit longer, but it should reduce the the visible scratching. As he said, the longer you scratch with lower grits, the longer you'll be sanding with higher grits to remove them. Using both Meguiars spray and Cerokote wipe is overkill. Feel free to record your process and send me an email, and we can find a good solution.

[@grandmastert01]

@@MichaelBrianInc thank you for taking the time to help me. I want to offer more then the 1 year protection that Meguiars offers and the Cerokote is a simply Ceramic wipe that offers a lifetime protection but I’m sure it won’t last a lifetime. I don’t use a sanding block just my hands. I like your idea of sanding both horizontal and vertical. Hopefully that will help with lessening the scratches. The scratches I’m seeing are mine. I only sand long enough with the 400 grit to get rid of the yellowing but maybe I am over sanding Tomorrow I’m gonna try sanding a headlight very lightly with 400 and see how that works out. I really feel that I shouldn’t have to use so many different sand papers it’s just way to time consuming but I will admit that I really enjoy it. …. Lol. It drives me crazy seeing Brad get done so fast and no scratches ….lol

[@grandmastert01]

@@StartRestoringHeadlights ok thank you

[@xavierscott6704]

That masking paper, does it come with the tape at the end? You are tearing it pretty fast so it seems as though the tape is already applied.

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

It doesn't you have to install the tape onto the dispenser, and as I pull the masking paper, its applying itself.

[@xavierscott6704]

@@StartRestoringHeadlights I found some pretaped ones on amazon. I don't know how well they will work. As always, appreciate the content

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

@@xavierscott6704 Don't get the Suran wrap-style ones, the tape and drape. Any tiny gust makes it difficult to work with.

[@simplyclear5802]

Why don’t you show the name brand of the clear coat you’re using?

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Hi Simplyclear, its in the description.

[@K-Fisch793]

I respect the hussle but clear coat dont last. Only thing I know to last is wet sanding thru the grits up to 2500 or 3000 grit. Clean and buff wifh heavy cut compound then medium cut compound and polish final step. More labor intensive but outlast any clearcoat from my experience

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

No restoration is permanent. You want 2 things out of a restoration process. Longevity, and something not harsh on the headlight. A lot of clear coats on the market aren't make for headlights, which this one is, ensuring a longer lasting clarity. You also don't want it to be a huge pain when its time to redo, and this one can be redone in less than 30 minutes.

[@kariolavi]

It looks that the spray melts the surface of the polycarbonate headlight. That´s the reason you get such good results. Why don´t you use any protection? Are you sure the product does not have carcinogenic effects as they very often do?

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Deffinitely not melting the polycarbonate. Only a corrosive chemical like sulfuric acid could melt the polycoanate lens like this, and even then it wouldn't be instantaneous like the results above. The clairty comes from the clear coat having filling properties, and filling the microscopic scratches made by the 600 grit. Theres no clear coat on the market that is safe to inhale, most all of them have VOCs like benzene and formaldehyde which obviously would be harmful if inhaled. I usually wear a mask or hold my breathe when spraying.

[@kariolavi]

@@StartRestoringHeadlights Many thanks for your prompt answer! On your other video I saw you wearing a mask. Excellent!

[@Godaboveall24_7]

Dry sand is the REAL way to do headlight restoration. U must remove ALL the old factory coating my boi. Dont do it the lazy way.

[@StartRestoringHeadlights]

Thanks for the input 👍