How to Remove the Fuel/Gas/Petrol Tank on Early Suzuki Bandits

[@johnheard1158]

Mine is a 91 GSX 1100 in pretty much great cosmetic shape. But it wouldnt have been if I had tried to do this by myself without your video. Thanks a million for showing me how. My bike thanks you too!

[@ARGDevilDog]

I love you man, thank you for this, I got my first bandit and I'm dreading doing things to it, but you honestly put me at ease

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Happy to help! This is great feedback. Made my day, especially coming from a fellow Bandit owner. Most the comments are in regards to the Himalayan. I should do more Bandit content. 🙂👍🍻

[@mirimir-nr4rh]

Hay Im from Croatia, I look your video becuose I need remove a tank from my bandit, and your video its help me, thank you men......

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

@@mirimir-nr4rh You're very welcome!

[@maverick_578]

Thanks man! This was a great video. For those of you wondering it’s basically the same for a bandit 1200, but you don’t need to remove the rear end of the bike.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Thanks for commenting. I know this is an old one, but I just now noticed it. Wanted to point out that this IS a 1200. Maybe you meant to say 600, which would be accurate. Not a big deal. Also, although removing the bodywork isn't required, it makes it a lot easier for a couple reasons. First, the sides are already detached from the tank when you go to lift the tank off. Second, there's no risk of the tank scratching the sides when you put it back on. That's why I do it anyway. Especially when there's fuel in the tank making it a bit heavier or sloshing around, I like to be able to just lift it on and off without trying to maneuver it so as not to scratch the bodywork... because I did that once before. Doh! 😁

[@SolitaryBro]

This video is exactly what I was looking for! Many thanks for the help.........

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+cplkillav You're quite welcome. And thanks for being my first KZbin comment... EVER. Very cool.

[@SolitaryBro]

Thanks for the very descriptive video. I was in the garage attempting to remove my tank (Same bike same colour although mine is faired) as my petrol tap diaphragm needs replacing and also, I will probably need to take carbs off at some stage as fuel has been running onto floor from my carbs whilst in storage. I was wondering why I couldnt lift the tank as I didnt know about the grommets! I would have also undone all the screws on the rear bodywork without your insight. Fantastic mate, you are very good at KZbin.... I am very honoured to be you first YT comment ever... Great stuff!!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

You've convinced me to rebuild the fuel petcock before it's too late. And thanks for the compliment!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+cplkillav How'd everything go? Smooth I hope!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+cplkillav nice job. l haven't done mine yet. But I did get out for my first ride of the season! Felt like a whole new bike after not riding for so many months.

[@hitibikunu]

Great job explaining a tricky first time removal. I’m about to clean my carbs on a Suzuki gsx 400 and need to do it. My model It has some similarities. Very helpful. Kudos from Sweden

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

My pleasure!

[@rednosern]

I have a 1996 bandit and I need help diy how to clean my carbs because my bike has a hard time revving up and starting

[@franzlanz5371]

Thanks, helped me a lot. Cheers

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Glad to hear it.

[@neilcater6651]

Useful, same bike, same colour in fact. Doing this job tonight.

[@aurelienbernard7745]

Great video, thanks for your help! I tried to do it a few weeks ago, but I wasn't confident as to what order to remove hoses, and I didn't realize I could remove them without lifting the tank 10cm. Now it's going to be easy.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I know this is an old comment. Just wanted to say that I was happy to help.

[@rednosern]

Very helpful and i can wait to get riding again. I'm also going to change my headlight on bandit to the circular light of you have videos on that please share...thanks Mate

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I do plan to make a video about the headlight, but I won't be able to show the process. I'll have to just point the parts out and explain a little bit. Thanks for commenting!

[@gingerbreadman2051]

Thanks for taking the time to show this very informative

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

You're very welcome.

[@JDnBeastlet]

Just what I was looking for. Thanks a million!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

You're quite welcome!

[@ericosman4410]

I have a 98 1200. I've found that removing the plastic handle from the fuel valve makes a little more clearance for lifting the tank off. It's held by a Phillips screw, and then it just slides off.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Excellent advice! Sort of like that bodywork, just get it out of the way. All held by a few screws. 👍 Thanks Eric.

[@Mark-bc9xy]

Thanks for the help great video Rgds from England.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Glad to help. Old video. Almost embarrassing. Not a good fit on that hat. 😄

[@Fishingfrancewitholiver]

Thanks for the help

[@michaelmorris6575]

Great video! Very helpful. Thanks

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Glad it was useful!

[@craigduncan6763]

Thanks buddy 👍🏻

[@Andy-wz4db]

Great job

[@whobru]

Thank you!!

[@oliviameiners7835]

I love your intro and exiting music btw in your videos, I noticed you have a cut circle in your air box, I was thinking about doing it too. What diameter do you recommend doing it, where at on the air box and what tool do you recommend using? Also, how often should I oil my k&n filter? & with what? Never really had to do it but want to make sure the maintenance is done as it should. Thanks again. I really appreciate your help Kamakaze!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Thanks. I've been working on improving my videos. The music helps a lot. Regarding the airbox hole, it's a common modification. It should be anywhere from 1.5-2 inches in diameter. If you do this, the carb has to be adjusted again throughout the range. You end up needing a slightly larger Main Jet, will need to raise the needle jet 1 clip or perhaps a washer or two, and then the idle mix screws will likely need to be turned out 1/8. Your idle speed will increase, so you'll have to turn that back down a little. The reason for the mod is because you have 4 carbs trying to pull air through the 1 hole. So it makes sense. And, there are some jet kit and other performance suppliers online that actually sell kits for this specific modification. It's still considered a stage 1 modification and kit, but factors in that increased air. You get a larger main jet. I was thinking about doing a video this morning on the highs and lows of doing these mods. Maybe it'll help. Highs: horespower and acceleration gains. Lows: with the engine less regulated, atmosphere changes (pressure, moisture, elevation) are all more noticeable. It's subtle, but I can feel and hear the change of the engine during overcast days, or when my fuel tank gets low. These things are less noticeable on a more strictly regulated engine. You'll hear people say that bike manufacturers regulate performance because of pollution and sound regulations. But I think a lot of the "restrictions" with regard to air and fuel intake have to do with being able to have a controlled and therefore consistently performing machine across all conditions. I have no proof of this. It just makes tons of sense. The back of your air box has one flattish area to the right of the original hole. You cut the new hole using the same tool that is used to cut door knob holes in doors, a Hole Saw. It's round with a serrated edge and should have a drill bit in the middle. You use it on an electric drill. Spins and cuts the hole. They're like $6-7 at every hardware and tool store. Almost forgot, the K&N oil. K&N sells there own specific oil found at auto parts stores. It's in a spray can. Easy to use and the oil color is red. Depends on how much you ride, but consider applying a light coat of the oil on the filter ever 2 months. It's not mandatory, but when you start modifying your bike and get it all tuned perfect, you may notice, as I do, when the filter starts letting more air through. To be honest, I may need to consider increasing my fuel a little to compensate for when the filter oil dissipates. Tune for the more average scenario, whereas I've always tuned with a freshly oiled filter. Okay, the most wordy person on the planet needs to get to work! :)

[@oliviameiners7835]

Thank you so much! You're super awesome :D

[@oliviameiners7835]

i got my go pro set up and have a hefty micro sd card so videos of the bike and riding to come soon on my page :)

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Olivia Meiners very cool.

[@davidfarias4822]

I did find it very helpful.

[@davidkirby1646]

Very helpful - very good video

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Glad it was helpful! I know people often don't go through the trouble of removing the rear cowl, but you leave yourself open to snapping one of the studs that fits into the tab/grommet on the tank, or scratching the cowl. It's so easy to remove, just go for it. Makes life easier. All the best!

[@Sorelizard]

Thank you just bought a bandit 600 and couldn’t figure out what was holding the front of the tank down lol

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Happy to help!

[@yveslegrand9826]

Nice and useful. Help me a lot...

[@geoffgreenhalgh3553]

You can just pull the side panels out of the grommets where the lugs go into the tank (spray the lugs with WD40) Put a block of wood under the tank after you pull it back. Remove the plastic handle off the fuel tap by undoing the screw and pulling it off. No need to remove all the side panels.

[@Andy-wz4db]

I took my gas tank out have three lines there I connected one to go the main one and the two in the back I don't know where they belong can you help me out

[@lewisfirth6502]

Great vid but looks awkward to reconnect the hoses

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Yeah, a little tight in there.

[@guyfriday6066]

Very helpful

[@oliviameiners7835]

Hi Kamakaze Moto, Quick update on my 2002 Bandit 1200s, got it back from the shop this morning and it started up just fine cold. The only performance mods I have done are 1) dynojet stage 1 jet kit 2) K&N air filter 3) Radiant Cycles shorty moto gp exhaust (all three I just did at the same time when cleaning the carbs) They inspected the valves, said everything looked good with that. Tuned and synced the bike. I am having issues with it idling though, it fluctuates some and runs high when I come to a stop. It cruises perfectly and does not appear to have any acceleration issues. Very fast. I have a dynojet troubleshooting guide and I remember what you said about air leaks. I'm thinking there could be an air leak, or the mixture screws are set too rich or the choke isn't closing fully. The float heights could be off too letting in too much gas. not sure. I will get my go pro set up very soon and take a video for you to see if you're interested. If you know anything about what could be wrong or how to better pinpoint it without digging into the bike or anything, let me know. I'll be taking her back to the shop tomorrow. Thanks ahead of time and sorry for the long message.

[@oliviameiners7835]

Also I just realized I never gave the shop the pilot screw plug caps that I drilled out...So they are not in the carbs..Maybe that's what's causing the idling problem.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Olivia Meiners Sounds more like running lean to me. You'll can have good acceleration lean. But you'll have sluggish acceleration rich. Do that spray bottle trick to test for air leaks. So easy. If that passes, I suspect the you need more tuning. I'm curious, if you take off fast then close the throttle and engine brake, do you get accessible popping and/or crackle? That is a sign of running lean.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Karmakaze Moto I meant excessive popping, not accessible. :)

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Olivia Meiners Those plugs are not necessary. They are meant to stop tampering. They don't block air. You're ok with that.

[@oliviameiners7835]

Karmakaze Moto. Yeah that's what I was thinking. That it was running lean. Too much gas. The shop I took it to tested for air leaks and did some pilot screw adjusting and I rode it and it seemed fine but then it wouldn't start cold without shutting off and having low rpms when I went to start it again. When I rode it there was excessive popping and crackling.

[@miketan2459]

Sorry,boss, I didn't explain properly so let me try again. 2 hoses from the top of carburator the one on the brake side connects to fuel petcock also the the hose with spring on it. Now on the clutch side is another hose coming from the carb where does it connect to?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I took another look and I see what you're talking about. That third hose, on the clutch side, just goes up and over the air box, and the end of it points downward NOT connected to anything. It also doesn't have any straps that hold it in place. Looking through the frame, below the seat, I can see the open end of it between the air box and the battery box area. Makes sense you didn't know where to connect it, because you don't connect it to anything. Just an overflow line, sort of like that longer line that drops down from higher up on the tank. On any new bike, these types of lines would be connected to a gas return system to collect/burn any fumes and fuel.

[@miketan2459]

I love u,man! Thanks so much!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

@@miketan2459 Awe, shucks. 😆😉🍻 Cheers man, be safe.

[@miketan2459]

There are 2 hoses from the carb 1/2 bgoes to tank fuel line. 4/3 hose where does it connect to? Fuel tank also?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

If I understand your question correctly, the larger hose (which should also have a spring around it) goes to the larger outlet on the rear/side of fuel tank petcock. The smaller hose connects from a vacuum port on top of one of your carbs (on the black, top portion of the carb) to the smaller port lower on the petcock. Your valve/petcock stays closed most of the time to keep from flooding your carbs, but when you start/run your bike, the suction in that smaller hose pulls on a small, spring loaded diaphragm in the petcock allowing fuel to flow. That's one of the reasons the PRIME setting on the fuel valve is useful. If the fuel in your carbs is dried up, like after sitting all winter, you can bypass that vacuum diaphragm for a minute to allow fuel to dump into the carbs for starting. Once running, put the petcock back to the normal operating position. All your carbs have this vacuum port (for syncing your carbs to all have the same level of vacuum), but 3 of the carb vacuum ports are covered by a black cap and clip. Find the one that is open. Of course, if the hose is still on it, you already have that part sorted out. Let me know how it goes.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

By the way, if you haven't every vacuum synced your carbs, it makes a HUGE difference in smooth running, easier starts, and is the crucial first step in tuning your carbs. That said, you should adjust the engine valves before any of that. Requires a tool like this: amzn.to/3Jej4qw

[@miketan2459]

Does the vacuum line to connect tho the bottom of fuel tank?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Yes, the small line goes to the smaller port lower down on the petcock, near the larger fuel port. Do you understand its purpose?

[@JDnBeastlet]

I will point out that what look like Phillips screws are actually JIS (Japanese Imperial Standard) - they are very similar but not quite the same. So if you have come across some chewed up screw heads (common on the clutch and front brake reservoir lids), the, ahem, Previous Owner probably pushed his luck with the wrong driver.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Love the "ahem." I throw my previous owner under the bus every chance I get. 😀 Thanks for sharing the JIS info!

[@rednosern]

I'm trying to work on a d get my 1996 bandit working again. Would you be willing to be my mentor in getting my bike in riding condition again.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I'll help you where I can. I don't know everything, but I have put considerable time into doing my own carburetor tuning and cleaning. I may be of some help. If you could direct message me through instagram, I think that would be more useful.

[@christoffer8186]

Nice video ! What type of gold steering handle you have ? Link please :)

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Here they are. amzn.to/3sdys11

[@Lewarunio]

what color of the motorcycle is it?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I guess I'd call it a burgundy, dark red or candy apple red. Suzuki calls it Candy Academy Maroon with a color code of Y1X.

[@davidbassou7686]

doesn't fuel come gushing out when you pull the hoses off?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Good question. You'd think that would happen, but no. The valve/petcock on the tank is only open when the bike is running due to the vacuum hose connecting the valve to one of the carbs. And, with 4 carbs ready to accept any residual fuel when the bike is shut down, there should be little to no fuel in the hose when pulled. If fuel drains out or drips continuously, the fuel petcock needs to rebuilt or replaced.

[@hohohohehehe6910]

Will fuel come out when you remove the fuel pipes?

[@bobb74ysmith]

Hm just wish I had a garage to do all that work but to be honest that is and was a lot of work time and possible problems to do it yourself and all that just to replace the bloody air filter Holy cow man that was a long time to remove the tank and to do work on this thing hm gotta find a buddy to work on my bike that's for sure

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

For real. Every time I need to clean or oil the filter.... I don't. I put it off for later. 🙂

[@oliviameiners9405]

Question: I have an 02 Suzuki Bandit that I took apart to clean the carb, everything is back in the bike and hooked back up correctly except the 3 way air breather hose that goes to the tank. Does either of the other 2 ends connect somewhere else? I'm really confused about this hose. Thank you ahead of time.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Someone else had this question about a month ago. Wasn't sure until now how to best answer until now. This is more than you asked, but I'm describing in full for anyone else: There are 2 breather hoses coming from under the tank, toward the rear of the tank (not associated with the fuel valve. The hose closest toward the rear of the tank goes behind the airbox and all the way down under the bike. Open end. The other hose in front of that one, or more toward the front of the tank, leads down to about the bottom of the airbox where it joins a 3-way connector. From there one tube goes toward the rear of the bike and is strapped against the frame near the battery. Open end. The last section continues from the 3-way strait down alongside that first hose under the bike. Under the bike you should have 3 hoses tied together near the right foot peg/brake. 1 fat hose with a cap on the end coming from the airbox (drains water) and 2 smaller hoses both coming from the fuel tank (breathers). The short answer to your question is that neither of the 2 ends connect anywhere. They are open ends.

[@featon]

Thanks. So the short answer is that they are useless?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Whether the hose is for water/condensation under the fuel cap, or from the air box, or fuel, better to drain it than to let it gather. You have to send in somewhere I guess. Would the bike function without? Yeah. :)

[@RPauli]

good video. but I drive a 1200S Bandit, WVA9, the tank expansion is probably a little different. can you tell me where to find instructions? The left in greeting, Rolf

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Rolf, I'm so sorry I didn't know anyone had posted on this video for a long time. Did you get everything figured out?

[@nulebon80s48]

Great vid dude but I can’t see why you removed the whole of the rear fairing to remove the tank. I just remove a couple of screws to pop the fairing out of the tank. Each to their own I guess.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I used to do it that way. After I scratched the fairing one time I decided it was better to just take it off and have it out of the way. In my mind while it may be an extra step to take the fairing off, ultimately it is easier to lift the tank off and definitely put it back in place when there's absolutely nothing in the way. Nothing to scratch, nothing to get hung up on . That's been my thinking and experience anyway.

[@CptporkchopJD]

On my 2002 bandit 1200 I have two sets of hoses on the underside of the tank by the fuel sensor I know one is a water drain hose I believe the other that comes to a T-fitting is a vent hose do they just hang down or should they run to something?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Joseph Doll Did you figure out the answer to this question? Not sure how I missed it.

[@CptporkchopJD]

Karmakaze Moto well I figured out what they were and no leaks from them. but when I go to try and start it fule leaks from the bottom of my bike. I'm thinking it's the hose clamp on the fule line from the carbs to the petcock since I recently replaced it. just running out of time before I go off the grad school and pulling the carbs looks like a real pain in the butt

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Joseph Doll Does your fuel petcock have a "prime" option? Im wondering if you would get the leak when turned to prime. Might help diagnose where the leak is coming from if you can set it to prime, then watch, perhaps with a flashlight, instead of being up top starting the thing. Wish you were next door! We'd have it solved in no time, and pulling tbe carbs gets quick with practice.

[@CptporkchopJD]

Karmakaze Moto that would be handy lol. yeah I have a prime setting. I'll have to break out my action cam and a flash light to take a look the next time I'm off

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Joseph Doll Good idea!

[@oliviameiners9405]

Another question: when I cleaned the carbs I installed a stage 1 jet kit and replaced the old dirty stock air filter with a k&n air filter and am putting a new radiant cycles shorty moto gp exhaust on, other than doing the carb sync is there any kind of tuning or adjustments I need to make for the bike to run correctly?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

If your bike hasn't ever had the valves adjusted, or if it has been more than (I think) 20,000 miles since last adjusted, you're suppose to adjust them before doing anything. Are you able to manage that? It's not a horrible job, but does take some skill/confidence for sure. Plus the correct feeler gauges. You can skip the valves if the bike seams to run well, but you'll never know fore sure if you have everything perfect unless you do the valves, then tune, sync, and retune a little if needed. Seriously let me know how it turns out. Maybe post a video! :)

[@oliviameiners7835]

Thanks Kamakaze Moto. I can try to do that, btw the bike has just under 14,800 mi, just bought recently and can't wait to get her running again. I was able to get her to start but only if I was on the gas some (with the choke all the way on) but now she wont start again. gotta get that breather hose back on. I have the service manual so I can figure out how to do it.

[@oliviameiners7835]

I appreciate you responding so quickly.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Not sure if I'm telling you things you already know, but you're suppose to always start with the choke unless the bike is already warm. I start mine at just past half choke every time. But if you're having to use a little throttle with it... might want to consider these steps: 1. Clean or replace the spark plugs. Clean or replace the air filter. Even if you had new plugs, after all this hard staring with choke and throttle, then not starting... I suspect they might be getting fouled with carbon. 2. Drain the tank and only start with fresh fuel. Consider using a little fuel additive to clean the carbs. 2. Now drain each carb, see if it you get any crud or debri. Get that fresh fuel through there before closing off the drain plugs. You'll have to set your petcock to PRIME or no fuel will flow. In fact, would be interesting is setting to prime helps you start. Try it. Could point to a bad vacuum valve in the petcock causing lack of fuel. 3. See if you can start better. But it is very likely that one of more of you carbs has a clogged pilot jet. Very common. At least if you had to get in there to clean or replace them, you could check the float height maybe do a carb rebuild, new gaskets, seals and such. You have low miles, but time takes its own toll. Wish you were next door. This one sounds like an easy one. Looking forward to hearing back if you get it fired up and on the road!

[@oliviameiners9405]

Karmakaze Moto it wouldn't start because the air breather hose that goes onto the tank (the three way one I was confused about was tearing at the end so I got curious and put some tape on it, hooked it up on the tank good and it fired up. Since the carbs aren't synced the choke works unpredictably. I cleaned the carbs and set everything according to the manual, including the float height. It called for 11-11.5mm due to the dynojet kit I installed. No gas leaks. I think all it needs now is inspecting the valves, tuning and syncing the carbs and she'll be ready ^_^ I have a go pro so I will definitely post some videos after she comes back from the shop. I don't want to take any more time out to do the valves and syncing, etc. I'll just let the professionals get it running perfectly since I don't have all the tools. Please do let me know if all that sounds right though. Thanks for your help Kamakaze! You're awesome!

[@oliviameiners9405]

So you know owning a Bandit that the clutch is a little heavy, with lots of tension compared to others. It should be easier to pull it in and hold it there. do you know any ways to lighten this up?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

+Shelby and Olivia Bednar I've looked for a solution and came up empty. A lighter clutch would be fantastic! All I've done is to keep the lever mounted far enough over so I was grabbing a little closer to the end of the lever. More leverage. I also started using a grip strengthened during einter. Actually helped a lot.

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

I've gotten into the habit of shifting to neutral at long stops and traffic jams. Relax the hand.

[@oliviameiners9405]

Karmakaze Moto gotcha, I always stay in neutral when I can especially at lights but the shifting is tough on my carpal tunnel lol that's the main issue but I'll manage

[@oliviameiners9405]

Thank you! :)

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

No sweat.

[@farhatkhalid6713]

Ok

[@alifnor]

I have fuel flowing out the tank breather hose. Do you know what might cause the problem? Thanks!

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Did it start after filling? Is it continuous?

[@alifnor]

@@KARMAkazeMoto yeah after I fill it up with fresh gas. It has a little bit of olf gas in there too. Should I start the bike?

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

Notice under the cap there is a flat ring/area around the filling hole. Did fuel get up there either by overfilling or pouring from the nozzle when filling?

[@alifnor]

@@KARMAkazeMoto It is continuous, but after I open the gas cap it stopped.

[@alifnor]

@@KARMAkazeMoto it was lower than that

[@maynardskunk4834]

Dude there's no video

[@KARMAkazeMoto]

It's KZbin. Trust me, there's a video. 🙂

[@eLu2198]

Mate, i have a bandit gsf 650 and the tank has 4 tubes. 2 of them connect to fuel and carb, the 3rd is like the one that hangs when u lift off the tank and i dont know what should i connect for the 4th tube. When i lift the tank, there are 2 hoses from the carbs that i dont know of their usage. I think i read somewhere that they are overflow hoses? What should i connect to the second tube right next to the hanging hose?