You're very welcome! Happy New Year to you as well!

Good tip.

You are very welcome!

I'm still alive. Still living Alaska. Life got a little complicated with some good events and some bad events, and I certainly got distracted from producing videos. I haven't even been able to ride very much. Combining everything else with the fact that the riding season in Alaska is so short, in the past two summers have been very rainy, things just haven't been conducive for trips and videos. Things are looking up though. I should be able to pick back up this summer. Thanks for checking in on me.

@@KARMAkazeMoto Thank you for the update! I'm excited to see your upcoming videos.

Don't know, but can't hurt to try. You won't find a little black wire, but you probably don't need that anyway to reset the ECU.

That's what they call it in the user manual... despite the bike being fuel injected. It roughly has the same impact, enriching fuel to get the bike warmed up a bit.

You're too kind! Cheers!

@@KARMAkazeMoto I've the same issue since tonight but my bike works perfectly! I'm going to try your tips this week-end! ✌

@@Chris64France I've had a few people point out that warning lights will go away on their own after a little riding. That may be the case SOMETIMES, but perhaps not ALL TIMES. Also, it's smart to fix the problem, clear the ECU errors, and then start the bike up to be sure the problem is fixed before riding. Also, from a mechanics point of view, they need to be able to clear the ECU without going for a ride on the owners bike. All that is to say, I hope it works out for you and enjoy the ride!

@@KARMAkazeMoto I just have taken a look under the site and I couldn't find the connector! Maybe a difference of versions between our Hima (I've the 2021)...

That's possible. I've heard that from others. I'm not sure, but I think they've said you can still do the process to clear the warning light if you didn't need the error codes to help you figure out what's wrong. So go ahead and try the method of turning the bike on with the throttle open, etc. Hope it works, because I can't really offer any other assistance.

Glad it helped!

Interesting. I would have thought it would work other than being more difficult to get a good connection/ground. Let me know if it ends up working with some better wire.

The sequence is in the service manual. If you need that, let me know. As for the engine not turning over, I could only suggest to correct the issue and clear the ECU. That's probably not very useful. Let me know if you make progress.

Right on!

I'm glad this helped you a little, but I'm a little bummed you've got this odd code! I wish I could help. Anybody else? I'm wondering if you might get lucky after doing all your services, to just clear the ECU and see if the code stays away. That sure would be nice! It's entirely possible to get a faulty code or some odd thing that goes away. When I first got my bike, my gear position sensor/lights were not right, but it never happened again.

Thanks for the really quick reply. You could be onto something. I have a flashing spanner symbol by the mileage reading. Any idea what service items I would need to do to convince the ECU that the bike has been serviced? (And how does it know???? ) FYI most of my bikes have been pre 1999 vintage so this sensor stuff is new territory, also I’ve just bought the bike from a buyer whom I trust, but he’s done his own routine servicing. Again thanks for the quick reply. You are a gent.

@jalford5089 I'm glad I can answer this one. It doesn't know when you've done the service or what items have been serviced. The technician would tackle an inspection and service according to the service manual and then clear the ECU (per my instructions in this video.) So they just do the work and then turn that service light off. That's all. The service you do would depend on the mileage on the bike and anything you discover that needs servicing through an inspection. So for instance, you may need to adjust your valves on the engine according to the service manual, and you may notice that the chain needs tightening as well. I can get you a copy of the service manual if you need.

Thanks bud. I have actually ordered a service manual on DVD. If it turns out to be no good I will get back to you. I have got rid of the flashing spanner; just hold the select button down, switch on ign and hold it for about 5 seconds. It should go out, but I’ve a feeling it’s just a dash setting and nothing to do with MIL light. I read about a light aircraft in South America where the bush pilot just stuck a Holy picture over any dial that stopped working. Said it stopped him worrying about it. I might do the same with the MIL light.

@jalford5089 🙂 Good plan.

You're very welcome!

It's only a little screw after all. Good thought. 👍🏽

I've been told there's not a wire on the newer bikes. So don't get too discouraged that you can't find it. Unfortunately I don't have any instructions on what to do without that wire. I think someone also said that the procedure for clearing out the ECU was the same regarding the key switch and opening throttle. You just couldn't get the codes to figure out what was wrong.

@@KARMAkazeMoto thanks I thought I was going crazy!

Thanks. Yup, I was still in my learning curve and figuring out audio back then. I've since made improvements.

There was no other special bracket in my kit.

Did you ever figure this out? I didn't realize I had this message until just now.

@@KARMAkazeMoto Yeah, after I tried this method it went away but not immediately so I don’t know if this worked or the ECU just self corrected itself.

@tamasvarga67 I think if it didn't immediately go away, the ECU may have just reset because the sensor wasn't tripped anymore.

Sorry, I missed something. What is it that you are ordering?

You're very welcome!

Thanks 👍

@@robertmackie5058 I've been told this works on multiple models, but it may still depend on the year. You might want to give it a go on the Classic. Doesn't hurt to try.

@@mirimir-nr4rh You're very welcome!

Couple questions... Is the vibration in the hands, the feet, the seat? Is it only during a certain RPM range? Are you used to riding a single cylinder four stroke, or is that a new setup for you has a rider? As you know, I can ride mine all day without issue. If I were you I'd express my concerns to the dealership and their shop, hopefully get them to test it out for some sort of anomaly. Maybe you could do a test ride on another Himalayan to see if they all feel the same. And return it if they all seem the same. Sounds like a one-off issue to me, because people all over the world are not having your same issue. But who knows, maybe you are more sensitive to it or expecting it to feel like a different bike you've ridden. Hard to know. Everyone is different. If you find out there is something wrong with your particular bike, I'd like to know. That's pretty interesting. I wish you were nearby so I could try it out for myself as well.

Thanks for the reply. I hope to be able to ride the wheels off of mine as you ride yours. I'm in Northern Nevada and if you can't run 70-75 you will have people all over you on every ride. So being able to hold 65 and roll on to 70 -75 is vital. My vibrations start in around 4000rpm and continue to get worse and by 4500 you can't see out of the mirrors anymore. I usually shift or pull out of the throttle because I'm still in the break in period and not supposed to pass 37mph and 4000rpm for the first 300 miles... There is a portion of my break in route that is 45 and sometimes I can't keep it slow. I even had to jump up to 50 or 55mph once to get back onto a neighborhood road...so I can't really say whether it smoothes out or not... I seems very tight and vibrates mainly through the handle bars starting pretty sharply around 4000 rpm. I hope it maybe just has a rpm range that vibrates then once beyond that range it gets smooth again until you reach another rpm where it starts again. Hopefully there's a sweet spot range where it's comfortable to ride and you can see out of the mirrors. I've read they seem to "loosen up" getting faster smoother and better running overall as they go through their first 1500 miles and you start to feel them loosening up around 200miles and getting smoother. All I can figure is the timing chain stretches it's expected amount during that period and that stretching gets the counter balancer and the engine itself to balance and work they way they are intending it to run once broken in. I know when I watch other people's videos I'm not seeing their mirrors vibrate to the point mine are. My overall question is, will it get less vibey and when you sit at 70mph are the bars smooth in your hands or shaking so miserably that all you want to do is slow down or get off? I must be able to comfortably sit at 70 or the bike is useless to me. My previous on/off road bike was a new 2018 DR650. I kept it about 1000mi and got rid of it. Very smooth great engine. It would go as fast as you wanted to go and was smooth at all rpms. I couldn't keep it on two wheels. I fell over on it every ride. I couldn't really get my feet down enough to steady it and the front would wash out from under me on any uneven surface. I could not ever get it to hook up and track on the front. In retrospect I think I needed to have had the DR650 set up by someone other than my dealer who actually knew how to get the weight displacement set up correctly so the front would grip. I even tried 3 or 4 different tire setups before I threw in the towel and sold it. I stopped riding off road because of the DR650. I bought a Honda and a BMW street bike after the DR and rode them for awhile and eventually sold them and stopped riding all together. I bought the Himalayan because I want to be out riding off road again enjoying the desert and the Sierras. To get out of town you've got to be able to roll out at 70mph or you're going to have 10 cars stacked up behind you getting road raged and making dangerous passes trying to get around you. It's dangerous and irritating if you're in everyone's way every ride. I was actually looking online at new bikes just now. If the RE won't stand up and perform for me, it's going to be sold for or traded in on a bike that will. I love my Himalayan and the way it rides and handles. It fits my 5'11" self perfectly...it is comfortable and good looking to me. I cannot tolerate this level of vibration. It must stop or lessen or the bike has to go. I'm hoping it vibrates only in ranges and is smooth the rest of the time. I just don't know because I'm trying to keep it w/i the break in specs. About the top of the stated allowed rpm range is where the vibes begin. Thanks again and I look forward to your reply.

​@@AdamDesertEnvy What you're experiencing isn't hereditary for any of the 411's, never mind yours as it's the last version. I've done 70k miles on them & only ever had a very slight vibration at around 4500rpm on the first 2018 one, which disappeared at around 2k miles. The others have been vibration free. I'd say take it back to the dealer & have the headstock bearings examined. They could be over loaded.

@@BorisMiljkovic you bet!

Glad it helps!

@@ducolthierry4807 Thank you for the kind words and positive feedback. 🙂🍻

@@richardhanrahan6188 I heard from someone else with the same issue, so I do think there's a different process involved. Unfortunately I don't know what that process is. Sorry about that.

@@KARMAkazeMoto I think on new models error codes are showed following the throttle procedure when the ECU light starts blinking, no need of any wire any longer maybe. I got this reading a comment here

@EmanuelePaganini-v9y thanks. Cheers! 🍻

You're welcome.

@@aranoilean5480 Low. 👍

Seems like a good idea to me. If you've got one with the proper connection I know to work, go for it. But for a lot of people that don't own the scanner, or don't have it with them when they're out on a trip and need to be sure they're repairs did the job, then this manual process will come in handy.

Glad you like it. 🙂

Glad to hear it!

I did not, but I did try to keep the RPM's down.

Probably going to be selling the truck soon. I love it, but don't need an F350 with a 7.5L/460 engine anymore. Come pick it up! 🙂

No clue. I'm also interested to know