How to Repair a Broken Clay Drainage Pipe

[@CharlieDIYte]

🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.

[@russr1973]

Couple of points, 1. use 10mm pea shingle 2. place the couplers onto the new pipe first then slide then out, repair pipe can then be cut to fit tight between the existing clay pipes.

[@KennyFraserDotcom]

2. Excellent tip

[@estevan007]

Okay but do those transition clay to pvc couplers actually slide all the way into the new PVC/ABS section? I know that certain couplers like flexible couplers are meant for sliding all the way into the new pipe section (which you can cut to exact fit or with just a very very small gap to compensate for dirt movement to avoid your pipes from getting damaged from movement) then sliding them into the old section, but I've only done this with pipes that are of the same external diameter, like 4 inch ABS to 4 inch ABS is a simple example, but this is a clay to pvc/abs coupler fitting so I havent tried sliding it into the pvc/abs first to see if it will actually slide all the way in. I know for sure that u can't slide it all the way into the cray pipe because there is something inside that stops you right in the middle of this kind of coupler to prevent you from going more than halfway maybe for dummy proof proper installation purposes. I'm going to have to try sliding from the smaller side first into the externally thinner pvc or abs to see if it will actually go past half way the transition coupler and actually slide in all the way, and then yes the method of installation you recommend would be better for a tighter trouble free easier install. Ill know after I go to the local home improvement store and try it out in the store haha.

[@77Avadon77]

Hey Russ thank you that help me think through my project

[@russcrawford3310]

The new pipe needed to be bedded down with sand ... sand is generally self-compacting ... 10 cm below, 10 cm on the sides and 10 cm above ... with the soil underneath as in th e video, this will settle causing a void under the pipe ... any kind of loading will break off more clay and start leaking ... then fill up with tree roots ... which just happens to be the repair work I'm doing right now ... and why I watched this video ...

[@Daemonella1979]

Thank you for posting this and all who left the comments and tips. I'm a 45 yr old single mom of 5 kids under ten years old and having the information to do it myself correctly has saved me on this one. Ty, ty ty

[@jonathonkiner7415]

Thanks! I was supposed to have some plumbers come out in the morning to fix a broken sump pump pipe in my front yard, but after watching this I think I'll save myself a few hundred bucks and give it a try.

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome. Just make sure you cut the replacement the same length as the bit you've cut out, as that's one thing I could have done better in the video! Cheers

[@steph5200]

Thank you for taking time to make this video. I have to make this exact repair and this is so helpful.

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome. Watch this before you do the repair kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYrPfICCpLuGfs0si=G3V5cuyBYuKgtc5t as you want to slide the couplers onto the new piece rather than do what I did. That way you ensure the replacement piece is as wide as possible. Also typically you'd use brown plastic below ground 👌👊

[@phil6025]

This is fantastic. Exactly the problem I've got with a pipe of a similar diameter servicing a single downpipe off my house - a problem I'll now fix myself.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Glad to hear it Phil! Just make sure that you cut the replacement pipe to the same length as the gap - rather than making it shorter as I did! You can then slide the two new cuffs onto the replacement pipe and then slide them into place when you've lined up the replacement pipe.

[@whitebeard171]

Thanks god, you are here ! I just counter this problem today, and now your video is here. Thanks a lot and really appreciate it.

[@CharlieDIYte]

+Harold Tran You're very welcome Harold. Good luck with the repair!

[@nightstringers]

@@CharlieDIYte I wonder how much a repair like this would cost if i had to hire someone. also I wonder if a permit is required to do this

[@xenomenon]

Great video. This is exactly what I need to do as well. Huge oak tree roots destroyed a section of sewer pipe. Thanks for being thorough! I can now move forward with confidence that I can handle this myself.

[@CharlieDIYte]

xenomenon Thanks for the comment! Just remember to cut the replacement section the same width as the damaged section you're replacing. I didn't do this, and a few people rightly pulled me up on this. Not really a problem for my drain as it only carries rain water - but more important when it's carrying sewerage - as you want the join between the two pipes to be as seamless as possible so that the sewerage travels freely across the join. Good luck!

[@OleksiyMuzalyev]

Thank you for the video. I would also put a "caution sewer pipe below" underground marker warning tape above (and along) the pipe. So that people who years later dig in the garden for some reason can see immediately that there is a pipe below. Such a tape costs about 25 pounds for 100 meters. It is designed to last for eons. There are versions with two wires inside so it is detectable by metal detectors.

[@CharlieDIYte]

That's a very good idea 👍🏻

[@neelp2391]

Great video , helped me a lot to fix my problem with pipe broken

[@antonios4926]

Thanks for the video Charlie. From Cyprus

[@jamiespruce4547]

Excellent. Thanks for posting. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome. Just get brown plastic as it's underground and cut the replacement section to the same length as the bit you've cut out, slide the rubber sleeves into the new section and then onto the old pipe when in place, rather than how I did it.

[@ChrisMaslunka]

great vid, did this today, worked a treat.

[@wsbob]

Good video, thanks. Only thing is you should have slid the flexi coupling onto the pvc pipe first, place the pipe, then slid them out to the ends. Make things a bit easier

[@CharlieDIYte]

+wsbob I know - a few people have told me that. Don't know why I didn't think of it at the time! Also I didn't make the replacement section of pipe the exact width of the pipe I cut out - which was also pretty dumb in hindsight! Thanks for the comment.

[@johnwilson5359]

Thank's for the great tips, looking forward to more of your video's.

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome John. People have rightly pointed out I should have slid the sleeves onto the pipe and then slide them onto the clay pipe once the replacement pipe was in position, but you got the idea 👍🏻

[@JohnnyTHolland]

Excellent British Chap showing us other British Chaps how to do it - thank you Sir !! (though the American s are very good at this sort of stuff too) and re the comments below about brown pipe - (a) read the very useful explanation above and (b) as noted by a few people below, why not use a bit of grey pipe to save money especially when it is just a less important soakaway. All in all a VERY useful video and nicely done with low background music. Cheers Monsieur Charlie DIYte !

[@jiveandswing]

Thank you buddy, I knew somebody would show me! Much appreciated!

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome. Just use brown plastic underground and cut the tube to the same width as the section you have to cut out, put the rubber sleeves onto the brown plastic and slide them on rather than the dumb way I did it!

[@davidjordan6704]

A couple of points! The Orange pipework is the below ground standard pipework that should be used - not the grey, which is for above ground use! Also, slide both flexi-couplers onto your repair piece, drop the repair piece into the gap between the two existing clay pipes and then slide both couplers back over the clay ends and then tighten all jubilee clips - saves trying to force the plastic pipe into a flexi-coupler that has already been tightened onto the clay end.

[@nicklawrence5608]

Agreed,

[@frank88ster]

Hi, you seem to know your stuff. Are you in the trade? If so, maybe you can answer my problem? I also have a broken water pipe (same size, I think, 100mm) But the break is to an existing rubber joint (similar to that repair) it's 'misaligned' and rubber has a big hole that's leaking upwards of drain is block. How do you 'realign it'/ replace with new rubber sleeve?? Thanks, frank

[@Stanly-t4m]

After working in a hydrochloric acid plant for 12 years I can say this for sure it does not matter if PVC or CPVC pipe is used above ground if the pipe is not covered by something the sun will kill it.

[@tomf2026]

Done this before but still a confidence booster, especially when drainage firms big up the job and want 1000's to fix things !! Thanks.

[@mushy_GLX]

Hi there, so today I had very similar size pipe replaced with pvc exactly as you have done. However builder did not use any gravel to fill around the pipe. When I asked he said it was not necessary to do so? But all the videos I have watched everyone uses them. Is he right or should I challenge him to come back and redo it? Thanks

[@kinomora-gaming]

I was quoted $18,500 to fix an old clay sewer line that has been ruined by the giant maple in my front yard! I plan on doing the repair myself, instead, and this video tells me it shouldn't be that hard to do

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes it's not hard if you have a grinder. One tip - make sure you buy brown plastic pipe or the US equivalent for underground use, and cut the new piece to the exact width of the section you removed, and slide the new collars onto it, hold it in position and then slide them onto the old clay - don't know why I didn't think of doing that 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@fieldingarcher3358]

Well done!

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks 👊

[@josephflores2444]

Nice job! one thing I would have used non shear coupling rather then the all rubber couplings

[@TheAbledGardener]

Thanks, this is exactly what I need to do.

[@CharlieDIYte]

You're welcome. Just buy brown plastic not grey and cut the replacement piece to the same width as the bit you've removed and put the rubber collars on the new section and just slide them into position when in place.

[@NeilMyatt]

thanks for sharing this - essential info! 2 questions: how long will those stainless jubilee clips last underground before they fail? also, if this was a sewer pipe, is there a risk that blockages are more likely now the bore is not smooth and continuous?

[@brandonGCHACHU]

Blockages are definitely going to become more prevalent

[@knottreel]

I wished we could have seen how you reached the back side of the pipe with your grinder.

[@mannyflores9261]

Knott Reel just tap it slowly after you got half or grinder some pieces will break off giving you room to get to bottom half

[@The3ART3]

Super job. Thanks. Very helpful. Great video.

[@unperrier5998]

for the next time to easy the installation, place the two couplings on the grey pipe and lower everything into the hole, then move the couplings over their final position. That way you can also cut the grey pipe to the exact dimensions, not approximately like you did.

[@adam12budapest41]

Hi Charlie, I would put the rubber joiner on the plastic pipe first, this make it easier and you could cut the PVC pipe to exact mm. Secondly I would put some silicon around the pipe as well to stop roots getting in to pipe. Make sure the silicon is compatible wit the rubber.

[@benbeatson787]

No need to add silicone if the clamp bands are tightened to the correct torque, this will be more than sufficient to prevent root intrusion for the life of the connection.

[@karenmorton2112]

Thank you, does the gravel protect the clay pipe?

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes, that's the idea, and generally when you lay new pipe, it gives it a firm bed.

[@sacpac8480]

How deep are terracotta pipes in South Australia, would anymore have a clue? Great video by the way.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks 👍

[@eversleyowl]

Very clear. One question, what type of disc did you us on the grinder as it is not in the list of tools?

[@CharlieDIYte]

A stone cutting disk but right now I'm using something similar to this bit.ly/33SzmjJ So much more durable than the standard stone disks which you go through so quickly. When you do yours, a) use brown plastic underground and b) cut the replacement to the exact width of the missing piece and slip the collars onto the replacement piece and then simply slide them into place, rather than what I did!!

[@ximegonzalez525]

Thanks for sharing!!!!!! :)

[@sriramanchathapuram1745]

Great video! Why did u pour gravel there please ?

[@CharlieDIYte]

To protect the pipework from sharp objects/ stones.

[@sam111880]

Ya the good thing about sewer/drain lines is you don't have to be picky you can go with concrete to plastic , clay to plastic , cast iron to plastic , plastic to plastic ,..etc depending on what the code want there install is relatively the same rubber fitting or if its plastic to plastic could uses adhesive to.

[@bpdispatch6433]

Thank you!

[@brianolberding7101]

Nice video

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks. Two things though. Use brown plastic if you can, and slide the rubber gaskets onto the new piece of pipe, put the pipe in position and then slide them onto the cut sections. That way you can get a much closer fit on the replacement section. 👍

[@ByDephault]

Nice video, helped me do the job but I was wondering if you need to seal the ends of the clay pipe first?

[@CharlieDIYte]

No, you shouldn't need to. Cut the plastic replacement to the full width you've cut out, and slide the sleeves onto the plastic and then onto the clay, rather than how I did it!

[@JasonPMartin]

Great Vid Charlie. I’ve got a lot of fencing jobs coming up and I’m terrified of damaging sewer pipes. Seeing this puts my mind at ease as I now know what to do if anything goes wrong. Btw, any advise on how to locate pipes / cable when digging?! Thanks for all the great info.

[@NeilMyatt]

my tradesman found a great way to locate pipes - he used a JCB and found several that way. That's why i'm here looking at repair tips...

[@Official_Derek]

call digsafe always

[@CliveHurst]

The pipe you are replacing should be measured before attaching the rubber joint connectors, for a good tight fit.. You should then slide on both connectors to the new pipe and slide them along to each end. You were doing it all wrong. Forcing connectors on after placing new pipework in position. Quite funny seeing you doing this....

[@CharlieDIYte]

+Clive Hurst Yes Clive, I'm aware of that - which you'll see from reading the other comments on this feed.

[@captainedc]

Biggles is exactly right. Then u can have it fit the entire length with zero chance of popping off and less chance of leakage. Otherwise your new piece of pipe is shorter than it should be.

[@BABOONBUM2009]

Iv just lost 7 lengths of drain rods with a spiral end ,I didn't rotate them clockwise on way in given myself a lot of work for nothing,now dug down to drain at tee junction and intend cutting a slot in top of pipe to retrieve rods

[@buscador2007]

@@brianmedeiros417Show us how to do it right, make a video.

[@Bull_sheet_Bob]

Biggles you are correct. I've just done it the way you described. It should also have been checked for any leaks before filing it with pea gravel and soil.

[@rajumall6176]

Nice work 👌

[@JG-nx3jg]

Neighbour put fence posts through our surface water drain. I need to do basically what you did, but in my case new section of pipe needs to be flexible to bend around the old section of broken pipe to where the pipe is good again. Can you buy flexible drainage pipe?

[@zinkfilms]

If there's a 2cm gap between the plastic and clay pipe will that be ok? I did the same job but inserted a t junction but I couldn't put in a length of plastic pipe the full length to have them joint seamlessly

[@totaldog8993]

I would put the flex couplers on the new pipe before fitting them slide out into position. Absolutely miles easier don’t have to force anything then

[@Luke-pt5rn]

Thanks for this great video Charlie. Just took my digger bucket through the same pipe today 🤦🏻‍♂️ Also just wondering what video editor app you have for doing this video? Thanks again for the great video 👍👍

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks Luke. A couple of things. Brown plastic if you can and make it there same width as the gap and simply slide the couplers onto the new piece and then onto the pipe when in position. This was Adobe Premier Elements but I'm using DaVinci Resolve Studio now. 👍

[@wooddawg4868]

When I repair clay pipes I dig as much of it up as possible and replace with heavy wall pvc and not just a small section like this.

[@coldiaper9215]

Place the band seal onto the plastic position opens together and slide the seal over the clay

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yes I know. Not sure why I didn't do that. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@fro0tyl0opy87]

Looks good, but I would have first laid the cut pipe on 10mm pea shingle and topped up to cover. Other than that, great job!

[@CharlieDIYte]

+fro0tyl0opy87 Thanks! Yes, I could have done with a finer grade of gravel!

[@zenveg]

I’d like to do similar but for a clean out but the plumber trying to sell me a trenchless pipe burst because clay broken and roots.

[@donlanjames]

you need to use underground pipe which is always brown not grey which is for above ground

[@CharlieDIYte]

+James Donlan You're right that brown is designed for below ground, but the only difference is that the grey pipe is UV safe - ie it won't degrade in sunlight and is therefore more expensive. So there's no reason not to use grey below ground, except it's a waste of money! I just happened to have it lying around.

[@dionweston9712]

@@CharlieDIYte the ground soil pipe has additives to protect from acid found in some soils.

[@gilbertovelez6697]

nice

[@JessicaevansXX]

I have this problem but with a corner pipe piece which connects to the soil stack. This doesn’t look too hard no idea how to do a corner one though 😩

[@CharlieDIYte]

I would see what you can buy at your local builder's merchant and then take it from there. Shouldn't be too difficult if you can get the right section.

[@qwhvcx2]

thanks for this! plumber wanted to replace my whole sewer pipe instead of the one bad part

[@fro0tyl0opy87]

hmm wonder why? :D more money?? :P

[@islamerica3032]

Changing it all keeps you from having to dig up the ground again when the rest of the pipe inevitably fails. If you already rented a backhoe and took a few days off of work, might as well buy a few more 10 footers and do it so you NEVER have to dig in your yard again....or worry about roots for a long long time.

[@islamerica3032]

...and NO I'm not a plumber.

[@billrose5146]

As someone else noted, how you cut the bottom half of the pipe with the grinder would be useful to see. You start it and then cut to a later moment in time saying it's all done. Didn't you run into trouble cutting the bottom half?

[@CharlieDIYte]

No, but from memory I may have had to take the guard off the grinder, which isn't something I wanted anyone to copy.

[@billrose5146]

@@CharlieDIYte Oh my. Thanks for getting back to me and letting me know.

[@cowlumbus]

If you slide your furncos over you new pipe you don’t have to fight putting it in. Plus...no double clamps?

[@john84753]

Good idea with the rocks. Why do plumbers always insist that you need to replace the whole pipe? Never mind, I think I know.

[@thanxx]

Because thats how you are meant to do the reapair.

[@9darthtyler]

You don’t want a bandaid you want the cure. If one pipe is failing then it’s a good indication others are failing to. Best fix is full replacement

[@outofideas4aname]

Why do you put in gravel?

[@l.a.raustadt518]

Unless it is below -0 (zero) for a few weeks with snow on ground ,cheers!

[@romerodavid3622]

What size is that pipe iron

[@boda4339]

So there will be a slight backup of sludge in front of the smaller pipe?

[@CharlieDIYte]

Take the spirit of what I did and improve on it by cutting your replacement pipe flush with the two ends. That way there will be no build up. In my case it's only rain water so I'm not worried about sludge. Clearly I should have slid the rubber collars onto the replacement pipe then I could have made the replacement section tight to the existing pipes but we all make mistakes 😉

[@HGSuper]

One handed grinder not recommended. Always use the handle provided. Doing same thing the grinder walked up my leg and sliced my knee down to the bone. Plus side was a clean diamond cut.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yikes. I agree but it was difficult to get two hands on it in that space.

[@United-Til-I-Die]

As if you didn't check for leaks before filling it 👌🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@zedman442]

Generally pea shingle is used to bed drainage in.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Agreed, I should have used a smaller diameter shingle

[@jackrust7307]

To bad he didn't use proper techniques for the installation. Measure the area between the pipes for a proper and complete fill that will leave no gaps for waste and debris to catch and collect. Put the rubber couplings onto the new piece of pipe before setting it in place then push them onto the clay completely. This eliminates the struggle of wedging in the new pipe. Hope this helps anyone trying a repair or just call a Pro.

[@davidbarnett8002]

Good repair but underground should be orange not grey thats designed for above ground it will eventually fail as orange is far more robust

[@CharlieDIYte]

Funily enough I've just had to dig out up as part of a garden remodelling and it looks as good a when it was installed. I don't think the orange / brown plastic as we call it is more durable but it can't be used above ground because the plastic gets destroyed by UV.

[@davidbarnett8002]

@@CharlieDIYte correct solar radiation and if you look closly you will see underground pipe is thicker to

[@TF80s]

What if the pipe is under concrete 😫

[@stephencoulthard1718]

Why not cut plastic to exactly the gap. Slide rubber on to plastic then slide outwards on to the clay at each end. Instead of trying to cram one end in.

[@CharlieDIYte]

That's the way you're meant to do it but I was having a dumb moment when I did this 🙄!

[@user-gg4of8kj6y]

Try putting rubber onto the new pipe then slide the rubber onto the old pipe ...

[@shubhamraghu4492]

ye saman kha milega

[@timmylight7895]

why didn't you cut center to but up to each end of orginal pipe?

[@CharlieDIYte]

Timmy, you might check out the most recent comment on this. I take Neil's point that it's better to get the pipes to butt up as close to each other as possible to avoid any steps inside - this being something building control officers are pretty hot on apparently. In my case, the pipe was only conveying rain water off the roof into a soak away so it wasn't really an issue, but the point you make is a good one.

[@gergemall]

Great job and nice cuts on the clay pipe maybe I missed the grinder blade. Waa it a diamond blade ? Cheers and thx again .

[@paulinmazurek2769]

I see. You struggled a bit putting the plastic in the coupling can I suggest sliding the whole coupling back over the plastic the pull back over the clay much easier

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks Paulin. Yes I should have done this. I don't know what I was thinking 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@boxinchito]

Why didn't you just put the rubber fittings on the pipe and place it on there at the same time? You did more work than you needed.

[@Jdgdrdjd]

Thought grey plastic was for above ground and brown was for below.?…

[@CharlieDIYte]

It is. But only because brown rots above ground cos UV. I had some grey spare so thought I'd use it. For a better job though check out this vid kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYrPfICCpLuGfs0si=JFsFU_yZijOZFzS9

[@telosfd]

At first insert rubbers to the piece of tube and then push them to the main tube !

[@CharlieDIYte]

Yep, you're not the first to have pointed that out - don't know what I was thinking!

[@josephgray4659]

What is the point of that? I'm going to start on this project soon, want to make sure I'm doing it right. Great video by the way!

[@nickb2833]

Always check that poo’s are going downhill

[@Scribe3168]

Nick B poo can go horizontal

[@datatran07]

The pvc pipe looks smaller than the original pipe.

[@CharlieDIYte]

It looks smaller because the original pipe is thicker. You probably want to buy brown plastic for underground and cut the pipe to the full width of the area you cut out and slide the collars off the pipe and onto the clay pipe rather than how I did it. 👍🏻

[@FishAreFriendsNotFood]

Shouldn't use grey pipe for underground use

[@CharlieDIYte]

I agree it should have been brown but I don't think there's any difference in the composition of the pipe. It's just you can't use brown overground as it deteriorates in UV.

[@stephencaveney]

Should have checked for leaks first

[@CharlieDIYte]

I did it up recently as part of the kitchen building works and it was looking as good as the day I did it. Mistake I made was not putting the collars on the insert and then sliding them onto the clay.

[@Ojeramup12]

Why did you replace it with a smaller in diameter pipe?

[@illmitchjax]

You can't buy clay pipe anymore and they don't make pvc pipe the same size

[@benking9503]

You are suppost to use the terracotta colour pipe for underground not grey

[@jonesynet]

Why?

[@Jake-es7ty]

Sand paper? You had a grinder in your hand? 😅

[@CharlieDIYte]

I used both as I recall.

[@neilu.k.1364]

Don't wish to put a spanner in the works but installing a smaller diameter pipe would leave a 'step up' internally. A building control officer would ask you to replace the pipe with pipe of the same diameter

[@CharlieDIYte]

Hmmm. Interesting point - thanks Neil. I've checked the diameters of the respective pipes from old off cuts and the INTERNAL diameters are actually the same (4inch). It was the external diameters that are different as the earthenware pipe is obviously a lot thicker. But the main point I was trying to demonstrate in the video was that with the Flexseal drainage coupling you can repair broken earthenware pipes by joining them into plastic. In this instance I was repairing a pipe, the sole purpose of which is to take water from the roof into a soakaway in my garden so I'd be surprised if a building control officer would be that interested, but I take your point, particularly where the pipes are transferring foul waste, you want to minimise any protrusions in the pipe that the matter could get caught on. I'll update the Description to point this out. The other point that's been made is that I should have used sand around the joint rather than stones because the stones could break the pipe. Again, to be honest, I should have used pea shingle (I don't agree that it has to be sand) rather than the slightly larger pebbles I used.

[@neilu.k.1364]

Yeah I agree, not so much of a concern if the pipe is only carrying rainwater but thought it was worth mentioning in case someone decided to use a smaller pipe on a foul pipe. Keep the videos coming they're a great source of info

[@CharlieDIYte]

Thanks Neil. Definitely worth mentioning - as I'm often doing these videos on the fly because bottom line, there's a job that needs doing around the house and you guys are my checks and balances!

[@fro0tyl0opy87]

This is great advice Neil. I'm about to carry out the same procedure, except my system carries rain and foul water through clay piping (pre 1920s I believe). Any idea what sort of external diameter pipe I could likely require to match the clay? Something above 110mm? How do I go about connecting something larger to the outlet of a toilet? Any ideas?

[@CharlieDIYte]

It's not the external diameter you need to be checking - as the flex seal drainage coupling is designed to bridge the differences in the external diameter. You need to just make sure i) that the internal diameter of the 1920s clay and the brown plastic that you're using to bridge the gap are the same; and ii) that when you cut the brown plastic, you make sure it fits as tightly into the gap as possible - to eliminate or at least minimise any gap between the two that could cause an obstruction to the soil in the pipe. I didn't do this but should have done - although in my case it's not too important as I'm only conveying rain water in the pipe. I suggest you measure the internal diameter of the 1920s clay, and then go and ask your local DIY store /builder's merchants for a brown plastic pipe replacement that matches that internal diameter as closely as possible.

[@kingsfriend8029]

sandpaper to take off the burr, eh?

[@ogairsoft436]

Shouldn’t the rubber collars be encased in concrete because they will degrade underground?

[@plummetplum]

They are designed not to degrade plus stainless steel clips won't rust.

[@amgeneralbuilding]

Poor connection should not joint that with any other product other than like for like.

[@CharlieDIYte]

I'd like to see you rejoint this with the original clay couplers. 😉

[@holdmbill]

Next time slide your flex couplings over the pvc pipe fist. Then slide over the clay.

[@C4sp3r123]

Next time read all the other comments that already say that ;-) (Though you are correct).

[@rays124]

Plastic pipe should not be used for underground drainage,(building regs) also pipes should be bedded on concrete, however it would appear that plastic pipes are used but they should be brown

[@johnmizenko8301]

I do NOT remember him saying why he added the rock gravel around the pipe before the soil was shoveled on top.

[@mr.unknown1386]

Sure looks like you reduced the pipe size and created a bottle neck. Definitely not a plumber.

[@CharlieDIYte]

Find me a plumber who'd do a repair like this. The grey plastic is thinner than the clay, so the internal diameters are pretty similar. That's the point of it. Plus it's only handling rain water.

[@gajendrapoojary8701]

Expense is more comparing to other method

[@illmitchjax]

Bob and vagene method?

[@egzergia]

Its not a good job. 1 pipe is too short. 2. You reduced cross section of pipeline.

[@mrobvious5892]

Cross section not reduced 🤦‍♂️

[@leehancock2782]

Wanna get tough? Use a handsaw all day long

[@elliottnash8306]

Wrong size pipe

[@CharlieDIYte]

It's not but even if it was, this is a rain water drain. Better this repair than having it leaking into the foundations.

[@10mray]

Can i come work for you... for free 3 months

[@asifkhan5436]

he is a cowboy... never put a grey pipe underground only brown pipe is for underground building regs require this

[@CharlieDIYte]

A bit harsh, Asif. I'm not a cowboy as I'm simply doing a bit of DIY around my house. Also, I go to lengths to point out in the Description below the video that you should of course use brown plastic below ground. It's a UV light issue rather than the strength of the pipe per se. Brown plastic cannot be used above ground as the sun breaks down the plastic. I used grey because I had a length lying around and the pipe I was repairing simply carries rain water to a soak away in the garden. I'm not sure what building regs would say about me using grey underground but I'll ask them when I've got a moment so I can set the record straight on this.

[@frank1847]

@@@CharlieDIYte Excellent answer to Asif Chas, Also mate grey is more expensive to buy. So if you have some lying around why on earth would you get in your car drive to the Builders Merchants park up, spend more money to buy brown and drive back. It would be madness!. This is why I never throw stuff away, you never know when you will be able to utilise it. it. You saved yourself time and money. Your not a cowboy Chas your just brighter than Asif...lol. Great vids mate, I really enjoy them. Thank you.

[@asifkhan5436]

@@CharlieDIYte well I told you I have already asked building reg officer. he said brown pipe is thicker than grey one..