How to repair makita battery for $12 [easy fix with using repair kit -new pcb and housing]

Hy There,
In this video i will repair makita battery pack by using battery pack repair kit from ebay and spot welder from banggood.
it's an easy fix wich save lot of money, because 5Ah makita battery pack cost about 90€.
You can buy these items here:
repair kit:
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...
spot welder:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vm3...
(aff link, when i was order in september price was €19.88)
English language was always pain in the a** for me, I respect every correction, but please be gentle
Thanks for watching.
if you want to support me for more projects like this, my paypal is:
www.paypal.me/TinC33
Hope you enjoy in video and welcome to watch my other channel:
Tine Sedej:
/ @tinesedej8137
Foto, video & editing: Tine Sedej
Camera:
Sony A6500 [sel 18-200 f3,5-5,6 Zeiss touit 50 2.8 macro]
Sony A6000 [sel 30 f3.5macro Sigma 30 1.4]
GoPro 7 Black
Music is from: Epidemic Sound:
1: ES_Speed Devil - Under Earth
2: ES_Forsaken - Under Earth
3: ES_Fight to Win - Sven Karlsson

[@bachipower1571]

It is great that you teach people how to give those batteries a second life. This is good for the environment, so a big thanks to you! Allow me one remark though: You should weld across the slot not apply both electrodes on the same side as shown. Welding across forces current through the cell can and it is the actual reason why the slot is there, i.e. you get better weld quality.

[@TinC33]

Exactly i often take batteries out of trash for some diy project but here the battery was tottaly fine so its a big save of money also, and pack still work today... Someone already told me about slot, thanks i didn't know that but when i read it become soo logicaly 😅

[@isidoromaich7226]

Awesome! when buying a cheap repair kit is normally expected having at least a couple of troubles, but this was done easily! nice

[@TinC33]

That's exectly what i expected, lot of troubles and non compatibilities of each component, for that price it was amazing kit.

[@Hindrenaline]

Excellent video. I wish I had the skills to fix my two 5ah batteries 😞

[@Swampytheroot]

Good stuff!

[@nThanksForAllTheFish]

When spot welding, place the probes on either side of the slot - that way, more current will flow through the tab into the cell body and out the other side of the slot - instead of mostly going through the tab surface.

[@TinC33]

Thanks, i didn't know why there is a slots, but now everything make sense, thanks again, really appreciate.

[@nThanksForAllTheFish]

@@TinC33 Love your videos - keep up the great work

[@terraXR]

Good catch.

[@laurentgeagea3230]

Great job , I have the same battery same issue but I couldn’t find the same replacement kit , the link gives you many options but none of them for bl1850b 5ah any suggestions please ? Much appreciated

[@TinC33]

I also cant find so i take 3ah theres only difference in stickers, wich i take from old pack.

[@greg4272]

How do you know, that the circuit board fits to the cells you used? Unique cell parameters like overdischarge, overcurrent, cut off voltage, etc?

[@TinC33]

All this cells are quite equal except max discharge current, but voltage protection is more importent.

[@mshane86]

Where did you get that battery resistance checking device?

[@TinC33]

Imax charger got them build in

[@Rocherhead]

lepo videt, da se še lotevaš popravljati elektroniko. Da niso samo mehanična popravila :). Bravo! p.s: Wiha tamale nastavke imam tudi sam, super so za ta denar. Jih ne obrabiš tak hitro.

[@TinC33]

Pozdravljen Jernej, ja veš da če drugo ne sem poklicni vzdrževalec elektronik, kjer mam vsakodnevno kaj za porihtat če ne menjat kak kabel/motor pa mal siemens program popravt ali pa kak VN preklop nardit, polek pa še kak sesalc, pečico, orodje popravm kolegom saj veš štromar ma vedno poln dela, pa kake kmetijske napeljave porihtat... Pravzaprav teli nastavki so od xiaomija naročil v banggoodu in ne bom pozabil ko sem prejel tista fency embalaža, notri žametna folija, kot bi odpakiral iphone, no je pa res da je xiaomi kupil wiho zato so najbrž identični.

[@Rocherhead]

@@TinC33 te razumem. Tudi mene prijatelji prosijo za usluge. Nazadnje sem prijateljem vezal led trakove po hiši, pred tem popravljal električni žar, doma pa čisto drugače kot kovačeva kobila je vse popravljeno sproti :D. Glede na to da obstajajo v kitu tudi "urarski" miniaturni nastavki so zelo vzdržljivi. Sem na Iphonu že uničil majhen križni izvijač, ker imajo vijake za Home gumb za loctitane :D. Nisem vedel, da jih je odkupil, poznam pa kvaliteto orodja Wiha!

[@StevenR365]

Hiya pal, is it possible just to change the yellow part ? Mine is close to snapping off, I've ordered a new one but I don't want to take my battery to bits before knowing more

[@TinC33]

I think it is possible but if you can get a replace... This part is holed in plače by black case cover, so check if grooves where the yelow part fit are demaged, in that case i'll just use some epoxie glue while put together, and a food foil on one side so it won't stick together, but just hold in place.

[@borismlinar6610]

What device did you use to measure resistance?

[@TinC33]

Icharger 4010duo, top charger, powerfull and precize, own them about 12yrs without isue.

[@davidreynolds4684]

I'm curious as to why you removed the original plates the connected the batteries to each other. You tested in the beginning and said all cells were good.

[@TinC33]

Because that pack wasnt fit in new housing, plastick part between cells are a bit different and also balancing strips are located differently, so the easiest way was to tear down everything and make new pack.

[@davidreynolds4684]

@@TinC33 ok that makes sense. Did you manage to get your spot welder to quit getting too hot? I wonder if lowering the setting would help. Who knows how accurately those things are calibrated?

[@TinC33]

@@davidreynolds4684 i don't know i buy it and use it only for that project so far, but planning to make my own (already heave prepared transformer for about 5yrs). But i remember now the electrodes become too hot to hold after a while of work, i don't know but i think i need to make 2-3 pauses to cool it down before the pack was made. For use here and there i think it's a great welder for it's funny price.

[@davidreynolds4684]

@@TinC33 it's a neat looking little welder. Good video btw.

[@JeremyBreeden89]

What cells are used in this battery?

[@TinC33]

Genuine makita from the old pack, i only replace housing and electronic, i think makita used samsung batteries but don't know exact type, i think they got 25A drain current. Apsolutely a good cels, we use them on work a lot and in 10-15yrs so far only one died.

[@jimsvideos7201]

I'm surprised the whole thing wasn't glued together.

[@TinC33]

it may be good because dirt and steel dust can't get into housing, but there will be huge heating problem, do you know that makita battery got groove into housing, so when we put battery on charger there is a fan into charger wich blow trough entire battery, to cool down the cells while charge.

[@mauserkk98]

Money well spent .

[@TinC33]

true

[@toolsworld8093]

You shouldnt have to remove the bms just you have to bypass the broken fuse on bms the battery would work again.

[@TinC33]

I think i checked and there was no burned fuse, voltage everywhere

[@Tyan_Nahts]

Are you sure? For Makita? If so where is the broken fuse?

[@TinC33]

@@Tyan_Nahts not every board had a fuse, there are many types of pcb

[@Tyan_Nahts]

@@TinC33 I was replying to @toolsworld8093 and I was asking because once a battery acta up rarely see any makita batteries that don't need a new PCB

[@Tyan_Nahts]

@@TinC33 I was replying to @toolsworkd8092 because most of the Makita batteries I have investigated have a faulty (safety locked) BMS.

[@willgilgallon1252]

Your video would be more appreciated if you didn't have that obnoxious music playing in the background. No music would be better.

[@TinC33]

Maybe but i cover my bad english at least a bit 😉

[@hansiman9262]

​ question guys. if sb. knows. i have one of these cheap board. but now not working. why? the contacts of the yellow socket are giving other voltage than before. in working mode the contacts had a voltage to minus or plus (dont remember yet, not important) 0 15 0 15 0 15 15 0 and so on. from other contag plus/minus like 0 4 0 4 0 4 4 ... and so on. but when the "cheap" board is fu..ed up then 0 18 0 18 (nearly full voltage) and otherwise 0 0,3 0 0,3 ... and so on. does anybody know what is going on there? i tried to figure out WHICH part must be dead but did not find out.