How to repair old drains!

In this video I repair old imperial damaged drains using special old to new pipe connectors. I have done two types of gully's one for soil and one for rainwater!
Guiton Sketch by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/

[@Stop..carry-on]

Takes a big man to admit a mistake. Much respect given . Cheers

[@jackinnes8599]

Takes balls to admit a mistake.keep them videos coming

[@njuham]

Good stuff, the family can start eating solids again.

[@amateurvegan2636]

😂

[@daveytn]

Could watch this sort of thing for hours. Absolutely fascinated with underground piping for some reason 🤷

[@issachunt5624]

I had the same issue but was advised to install a rodding eye to the bottom section of the soil before it go underground.

[@amateurvegan2636]

Fair play for showing your mistake. That was a gully by the way designed more for grey and surface water I think. Sticking a rodding point above the ground is always handy for the future also :)

[@utilitarian]

Good man Chris. A nice job you've done there and awesome job correcting yourself on the swept bend instead of the trap. 🙂

[@foundationgood123]

Thanks 👍

[@owenjoseph6097]

Good video thank You! I’ll also echo others and it’s much better to correct an error during the job, it show you want to do the best job possible. 👏

[@HeiderSati]

Great video, thank you for spending your time to make it

[@ronniebiggs4026]

Great job Chris well done .That will last another one hundred years 👍🧱🎥

[@tedmed7349]

you are right to put the elbow in, I put a P trap in to stop the sewer gas coming out the porch roof drain. It both froze up and clogged up and had to be redone right.

[@biblebasics100]

Hey bud great video, like how you have kept the two points and done two explanations of the different gully's. I really like those couplers you were using and can see how effective they are, i've never seen them before and always wondered how to connect the plastic to the older clay pipes...thanks for the share mate learnt something

[@larrykeenan598]

In the US, the rubber couplings are called Fernco couplings which is a brand name maker of rubber pipe couplings. They are available in all shapes and sizes.

[@SME_Ste]

Done a similar job at our house, in the end ended up exposing the 3m or so or old, cutting it out and installing new pipe and junctions.

[@vinm300]

Very well presented and very informative, thanks.

[@babooll5632]

A depth reference mark on the spigot end and a little pipe lube helps

[@MrGlenfraser]

Great work Chris.....

[@Farooq11122]

You don a nice job Budd 👍

[@marrngame2116]

Hi Chris I am from Africa always I found your videos very useful one thing I don't why Replace old metal pipe with plastic which one better?

[@paulashford4155]

Cool...interesting to learn when I know nothing. I was confused...I thought those black connectors were rubber....later I could see they are plastic.

[@johndaniells4440]

Fair play Chris mate 👍

[@tlabort]

Another good tip is where the soil pipe goes into the house and then about a foot up cut the pipe and put a new push fit vent on which lets the air in but no smell out

[@plummetplum]

Nice work. I'm trying to connect new pipe into a vertical clay pipe. Unfortunately the clay is encased in concrete. The pipe has been cracking when I try to remove the concrete. It's rock hard. I'm worried I might end up chasing the pipe deep into the ground, which is more digging and hassle. Have you any suggestions how to connect into the clay pipe without any spare collar to attach to. I thought about getting some new clay pipe and mortar it in to the old then I have a free collar to attach. If I could get a temporary plastic liner to put in clay pipe it might stop mortar falling in. Does this sound doable? Any ideas what I can use as liner, the inside diameter of clay is 100mm.

[@foundationgood123]

Hi, there are several types of connectors if you go a Plumbers Stores, or a Builders merchant or the DIY places you can see the different couplers, collars and connectors. I have used toilet connectors as they have a concertina rubber grips that can push into the 100mm pipe, then concrete around it to keep it in..Hope that makes sense!

[@robhasler2529]

Great video - thanks

[@Hew.Jarsol]

Hi. What was the concrete mix? 4:1 etc?

[@foundationgood123]

Hiya, it’s a 4 sharp sand, 1 cement

[@sen5908]

Always like to concrete the new too old coupler's, don't trust the jubilee clips from failing underground and rusting

[@Stop..carry-on]

They are stainless arnt they ?

[@tlabort]

ALWAYS USE PEA GRAVEL BECAUSE IF THE GROUND DROPS THE PEA GRAVEL FALLS AND FILLS THE HOLE.

[@JimJimpmjj]

Hi Chris, question I have for you please, you said you cut the old pipe with a cutting machine? Would that be an angle grinder or a multitool? Thanks kind regards 👍

[@foundationgood123]

Yes I used a angle grinder petrol saw with a 12” blade.

[@JimJimpmjj]

@@foundationgood123 cheers pal only got a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder hope it does the job!. Thanks pal appreciate answering my questions 👍👍🤙💪

[@ryananthonytibbs4725]

I didn’t know you could put a soil stack straight into a trap ???

[@foundationgood123]

Yes, you’re correct! I didn’t do that either I put it into a rest bend✅

[@ryananthonytibbs4725]

@@foundationgood123 oh ah ok my bad

[@dougz31]

Nice

[@nalaahznia1809]

Hi chris this is a really nice detailed video. I have the same problem with my drain gully. Which is blocked weve been on the property for about 15 yrs. And the previous owner put a 120L water bucket. So drain its not been use for a while a remove this water bucket as we dont use them and i was emptying the bucket and pour into the gully i noticed that is blocked. Are they easy to remove and pretty much the same here and how much dept are they? But this one they got solid concrete which a bit hard to access i think. Any tips will be very much appreciated.

[@andrewhargreaves980]

😱

[@srb2897]

This workmanship is a disgrace. There are so many very good videos on here that should be applauded, but this is TERRIBLE!!! If ever there was a cowboy builder this is one of them 😩😩 shocking!!!

[@easyeasysteps1637]

The main concern is why there so much water left next to the brick wall?

[@stephenmarkashall5166]

Its called a p-trap gully and that is the worst concrete I've ever seen. Plus why have you only put a rest bend on the system and not a put a gully on the system as well. It would make the white pipe a lot neater also take the extra water away from the patio and the outside tap

[@adriancarter825]

That trap for a toilet will block they are no good for solids

[@adriancarter825]

I was about to comment then you changed to rest bend

[@clivewilliams1406]

There is no means of rodding the connection to clear any obstructions. A rodding at least should have been fitted to the stack, low down. I note that no level was used to ensure that the installation had a gradient. Any backfall whatso ever will result in a build up that will eventually block. A small 300mm dia inspection chamber for the connection was the proper and authorised solution. No rest bends and unnecessary trapped runs. As the soil pipe is a direct vent and connections from the sanitary appliances should be trapped no running trap is required. The installation of a running trap is detrimental to the proper functioning of the system. The drain being worked on is a public sewer as it serves more than the property where the work is being carried out. It requires local authority approval and I doubt that the installation as shown would be approved. Very often the water boards require CCTV surveys before and after the works to verify that no damage has been done and the works are up to standard. This work is so poor that I would condemn it unreservedly. We know that such work is carried out but to then show it as good building practice deceives all those without any professional knowledge..

[@foundationgood123]

Thank you for your input, First as you can see I was “repairing” an existing pipe using modern connections with adjustable collars. There was an inspection chamber on the next doors property which had slabbing covering the inspection lid and was in a position where it could be rodded if necessary. These old properties are so different than modern houses, there is hardly any depth to the inspection chambers and can be very difficult to change! I followed the exact flow of the original-sor the gradient was right. All other utility connections have their own trap systems ie the toilet, sink and bath. So where you are showing a lot of information remember that every job is uniquely different especially on the old UK properties. I have been renovating these since the late seventies adding new kitchen extensions etc, but there is only so much you can do when adding new to old. In my opinion the job was adequate and would certainly pass an inspection if there was one needed!

[@clivewilliams1406]

@@foundationgood123 It goes without saying that you are repairing a connection to a public sewer and therefore approvals from the local water board are required. It is obvious that the most likely blockage points are at the branch connection or at the bend between the soil pipe and the drain, it is these two that require a rodding access. Having an inspection chamber further along the sewer is irrelevant. Also, a new running trap at the base of the stack will actually make matters worse. It is not good practice to just follow the existing set up because there could easily be defects and backfalls/obstructions to flow - it should be treated as a new installation that follows all good practice. Of course every job is a prototype but they should all be treated so as to comply with the rules, and those have been in place for 200 years in respect of drainage. I have been designing and inspecting drainage systems since the beginning of 1970's i.e. nearly 50 years, having been the choice of drainage designer for many main contractors and your installation would not pass my inspection or Building Control for the reasons stated. It appears that you do not know that you were working on a public sewer since this has been a common situation since 1st Oct 2011. You were working on a public sewer and should have sought approval, which I assume you failed to do although, if nothing else, you ought to have commented on this in the video as it is vital that Joe Public does not inadvertently carry out work based upon your video, which will lead them to prosecution.

[@abskan4015]

Having worked with local authorities for over 40 years on different renovation projects I can ensure you most are useless pencil pushers. If you want approval for such works, you would be looking to pay close to 400 pounds and have to wait a couple of weeks for some pleb to tell you it's okay or not. His work looks perfectly fine. Not everyone needs to do via the 'text book' methods you talk about.

[@clivewilliams1406]

@@abskan4015 I have worked in a development corporation, County Council and for the last 37 years in private practice, with my own practice for the last 25 years. The comments I made are the minimum standards that I would accept for my clients. Whether you want to or not, it is a statutory requirement that approval be obtained on this work to a public sewer and I have yet to come across any approving agency that does not approve a professional job. Its only the bodgers and the unknowledgeable that get pulled up on their work.

[@abskan4015]

@@clivewilliams1406 same companies and authorities that approve the shoddy new builds up and down the country. I'm sure Chris would come back and sort if there was a problem here. Same can't be said for the masses that have poor quality new build housing which have supposedly been passed, approved by authorities and private inspectors. So, to your earlier point saying it wouldn't get passed. It would if he knew the right people like the new build companies and the big boys.

[@matthewchadwick4293]

WTF mate your shocking!!

[@mmm23864]

has he put the foul into a storm gully trap

[@uk3994]

No gloves 🧤 omg