How to Repair Wooden Shingles

Broken or rotten shingles should be repaired to keep a home protected against the elements.
Roof or second-story shingle repair may require a ladder. Be sure to follow all ladder safety instructions.

[@josephtanzi5219]

I wish every video was this straightforward. I don't need 6 minutes of backstory on the history of cedar before the 2 minutes of actual content. Thank you!!

[@c.philipmckenzie]

Here we are six years after your original posting and this remains the most clear and concise video on cedar shingle replacement. Thank you.

[@javy9412]

I usually don’t comment on home improvement videos, but I am so grateful for such a straight forward video like this one. Thank you!!!

[@CraigPaschang]

Best, most concise video on KZbin for this type of repair. THANK YOU!

[@mistermanager226]

I just watched half a dozen videos on shingle siding replacement, and this was by far the most straight forward. Thanks!

[@LDB2991]

This is old school to the point. Great video!

[@ericsalamon6457]

Ive done alot of this on my house. Some spots are tough but this tool helps alot. They make it look easy here but I think some of those replacement shingles are cut short. Need to ensure you have the right exposure to be water tight.

[@hoptallproductions7941]

Thanks for a concise and information packed video. Now to buy a shingle ripping bar!

[@csrunner6296]

Saved! Need to replace several around my houses, never knew there was a special removal tool!

[@patriciarivera9346]

Thank you so much MR HILL you are the shingle LORD.

[@AJayMustang]

Literally exact best instructions I was looking for. Thank you

[@anitamoreland4150]

Oh my what a great video, gave explanations to why things are done a certain way. Perfectly done now I have a better understanding😊

[@atroutcatcher]

Good video - but the tool doesn't appear to be available any longer...any recommendations? Most replacement tools, like the Dasco tool in the video, do not get good reviews - won't cut the nails or breaks if you use a hammer to shear the nail. Recommendations on a tool as a replacement for shingle removal would be appreciated.

[@flipdifilippo9923]

Thanks for the video! Answered all my questions.

[@wc1149]

So straight forward so glad I saw this one there a few other knock out blah blah ones that are totaled useless But this one is perfect keep making videos and help educate us all :)

[@SkyBlue1031]

This made it look easy. thank you.

[@stevenshankar8365]

Nailing that last shingle in on an angle, tucking it under, then hammering flush by hitting the upper course above is a pretty smart move. I'm gonna use this technique on a spot where I need to install the upper course before the lower course.

[@codewalker66]

Fantastic! Exactly what I'm looking for. At my home, it appears raccoons have taken to eating the cedar shingles, moss and falling mulberries must taste good.

[@JohnBindon]

Sweet method ! Thx much !

[@kold4642]

thank you so much.

[@mattb9664]

I think I'll be buying one of these bars!

[@GrizzlyUrsusArctos]

Just got home and my dogs ripped off 2 sections of my cedar shingle siding. I’m mortified. This video is helpful but where can I buy a few replacement shingle pieces?

[@carolnolan500]

Where can I find replacement shingles?

[@XenaTheQuadCamBikah]

I can’t find one of these bars can someone please tell me where to get it? Thx so much

[@MichaelCampbell01]

Finding that tool is hard. Everyone seems sold out (Wal-Mart online had it for me).

[@1allstarman]

I knew it

[@cristobalarciniega2503]

Wow that's nice... Thank you so much.. Where can i buy the tool..?

[@robertvazquez8706]

home depot or any hardware store

[@videophile897]

At 2:18, you install the second-to-last shingle even with the shingle to its left. Then, at 2:53, you install the LAST shingle 1/4" lower than the others. Why was the second-to-last shingle installed even with the others, and only the LAST shingle installed 1/4" lower and subsequently tapped into place with a straightedge?

[@kellykai4068]

I have same question here

[@duff1856]

Same, Questions. Seems odd. why not do both the same way as the last shingle.

[@stevenshankar8365]

​@@duff1856 Its so the last nails get hidden by the top most existing shingle. By setting the shingle 1/4" lower, when you bang up on it to get it level with the rest, the nail that you previously hit in on an angle will straighten out (90 degrees to the wall). I think the idea is to get the nails that you hit in on an angle to tuck themselves under the shingle above so you don't see the nail head. If you don't care about the exposed nail head, my guess would be you could install everything in line without the 1/4" offset.

[@duff1856]

@@stevenshankar8365 I understand, but the question is why this technique was only used on the last shingle and not BOTH of the shingles in that last row which both have an existing row above it?

[@phloughtgnarpsehs7263]

Agreed-this part of the vid doesn’t make sense. That first shingle should have been installed lower as well. Other vids I’ve watched related to shingle repair show ALL of the last course first installed slightly lower, then bumped up to the final height. But it would be good for the vid creator to clarify and/or correct the technique.

[@ikesquirrel]

This is handy for when someone takes a claw hammer to your shingles...

[@albertgarcia7946]

Where can I purchase the tool?

[@c.philipmckenzie]

Well, there’s a chance a small online store called Chinazon may have them. Or one of those mom and pop stores called Lowe’s and Home Cheapo.

[@jimroi2013]

99

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Uhhhh that wall was rotten.

[@rabakomaba4562]

Woodglut is nice for that.

[@vegiguy16]

8d nails are too long and you're nailing them too high on the shingles on the first ones you nail on. Also, 1/4" gap between shingles is pretty wide for pre-stained shingles.

[@okallixti5065]

What sort of nails would you recommend, and where's better to hammer them? Need to replace a handful of shingles on the side of our house, have never done it before & want to get it right. Thanks.

[@tbuzz285]

Yeah, this is all well and fine if your shingles aren't near ground level where there is no way to get the shingle ripper underneath because it's too long. Also, many shingles are stapled and not nailed, and the ripper normally can't latch onto those as easily as they do on a nail. Additionally, if you already have a reciprocating saw, a long blade on that does a terrific job - but it also won't be of use on a course near the ground. Just sayin'.

[@c.philipmckenzie]

Make your own video and show everyone how it is done. Oh, they sell different length rippers