How to replace a Peugeot 206 rear trailing arm bearings

In this video I will take you through how to replace the trailing arm bearings on a Peugeot 206.
This how to should also apply to other Peugeot models, perhaps with the potential difference of disc brakes.
The tools used in this video were:
Jack stands
Jack
10 mm spanner
13 mm socket
21 mm spanner
21 mm socket
32 mm socket
T40 torx bit
T50 torx bit
Sand filled mallet
Lump hammer
Screw driver
Flap wheel on airline drill
Plus gas
CV grease
Please feel free to leave any questions in the comments section or drop me a message.

[@KENTYtv]

For me driving the outer bearing in to a depth of 5/8 inch or 16mm allowed the axle shaft to be fully inserted into the bearing when I put the arm back on. Any less will result in the shaft not occupying the full width of the bearing .This measurement will also give maximum spacing between the inner and outer bearings for optimum stability of the arm. How far the arm slides onto the shaft is governed by the torsion bar. It's worth noting that the end seal will also have to be driven in to allow the anti roll bar end plates to insert/locate correctly into the the arm, I drove mine down until they GENTLY met the edge of the bearing. CarAndMechanical could you please pin this vital information where people can see it Thank you for a great instructional video which is so helpful, The Haynes Manual said that the job was beyond the scope of the manual and didn't help at all. Cheers, John ...

[@Triicks111]

informative but missing a few crucial parts. Firstly the removal of the torsion bars are the single most hardest part of the whole job which you didn't cover. You need some powerful gear i.e big blow torch, sledge hammer and a solid steel drift with some good penetration oil to move them. (unless you have an air chisel or a 20kg slide hammer) Also by the state of those bearing 99% the axle pins will have deep grooves in them and will need re machining if you plan to do more than a 1000 miles. if i had any kind of play like that, for the sake of £200 delivered you can have a fully refurbished one. My advice, save up and by a refurbed one.

[@karlbatty8136]

Very good observation x

[@oluftheexplorer9476]

This is why one simply replaces the entire rear axle.

[@tonyvobe1886]

Good video. But you failed to mention to take measurements or make marks first before removing the toothed torsion bar.

[@RamusisTrenksmas]

Wonderful tutorial! Just changed bearings on my Peugeot yesterday. However you really need a blow torch to move some of those rusty screws and as some people mentioned here before, you may really need a big hammer, blow torch and a lot of anger to make that red torsion bar moving. I almost gave up on the whole job having rear end already taken apart :-D

[@HoseaGodwin]

You have saved my day with this lesson thank you so much God bless you in Jesus mighty name amen

[@bojandjeric7163]

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best.

[@CosgroveNotts]

Far too many experts on here. This lad did OK well done

[@bojandjeric7163]

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best. 👌👍💪

[@colinware4295]

Well explained especially for DIY mechanics having limited tooling,thankyou.

[@MsCrazytoo]

Brilliant! Explains how to do this very easily. A life saver. Not a difficult as people say by the look?

[@tajwalikhan5082]

Absolutely brilliant video everything pinpointed perfectly on how to do it your self. Thank you.

[@hease1]

This is only half of the job. yes the bearing are knackered but also the pin where bearing slides onto will be worn also and needs replacing

[@larsk7708]

whats that for part then ?

[@JohnSmith-vz8pc]

@@larsk7708 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-206-98-07-REAR-AXLE-BEAM-TRAILING-ARM-REPAIR-KIT-SHAFT-BEARINGS-RA4/332257481670?hash=item4d5c16d3c6:g:I2QAAOSwa0xfDcL9

[@roberthorwat6747]

Fan bloody tastic!!! About as crystal clear and simple to understand, follow and implement as a Haynes manual is none of these things🤣

[@hipstarchild]

Awesome video. I enjoyed watching this. Thanks for the upload !

[@predatortt7694]

Best Vid i found about this! Thanks very much and greets from Deutschland

[@banntheman7925]

GREAT SIMPLE VID VERY WELL DONE NOW I HAVE TO DO MY WIFES CAR????? THANK YOU AGAIN

[@AliMackMechanical]

How the heck did you remove the torsion bar I see you took it out one end and left it in the other side your working on. It's the only part you left out of this video it's not the worst job your right. But taking the torsion bar out are almost impossible on the deck. Please don't think am having a go what you did is great but need to know how you got the torsion bar of before I go and buy an axle

[@wilki61]

Thank you for taking time to do this video very helpful indeed

[@geoffcbr929]

excellent job my man!,clearly put and boring bits sped up nicely...top job:0)

[@neilnewbon6112]

Excellent video, that will make my life easier, thanks.

[@chriswhitham9233]

Hi , thanks for this I may have to do this very soon , got mot next saturday I have a noise on the same side, a recon axle is about £350 on ebay

[@spiritualitymatters.1106]

Brilliantly explained buddy, and much appreciated 🙂

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

Fantastic, I just discovered the same problem on my 306 estate and the first thing I read online was some doom merchant insisting it wasn't a home job but needed a refurbished axle. Then I found your video and it's plain to see I will be able to do it myself. Thanks for your steady filming and clear advise, I've subscribed!

[@garethjones8047]

And did you get it done yourself?

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

@@garethjones8047 You know what ,as in the comment below by hease1, the whole kit and caboodle was knackered, so I did follow the "doom"(aka perfectly right!) merchant's advice... refurbed axle fitted. Now if only I could get rid of the horrendous clunk from the front end, on rough tracks. I've fitted everything from new shocks to new engine mounts and all the swively bits inbetween...

[@garethjones8047]

@@gravelyvoltas8897 I've owned a 306 dturbo for the past 18 years. Mine has done 221k now and I still use it daily. I'm a hgv mechanic so only really maintain my own cars and friends and family etc. The only front end clocks I've ever had from mine are when the anti roll bar link arms are worn. I have done track rod ends and ball joints a few times during my ownership, also the front wishbone rear P bushes seem to be a weak spot. But it's been an amazing car. Are you sure a little piece of coil spring hasn't broken off at the bottom? I've seen this a few times on various cars where the broken piece sits in the cup and just rattles around.

[@garethjones8047]

Just realised you said you fitted new shocks so you would have spotted that.

[@gravelyvoltas8897]

@@garethjones8047 thanks for your advice. Me agricultural mechanic... Swapped the coil springs onto new shocks 5 months ago, new balljoints, TRE's, lower wishbones, one recon (long) driveshaft, ARB bushes. I now know the LHS driveshaft is on its way out ,but I've still not solved the cause of the hellish loud bang from down low on RHS front as I accelerate up our rough as f**k Hill track. Unless the cheap wishbone's rear bush is so weak it's like a worn out one... ! Any experience with worn subframe bushes Gareth? They SEEM firm..

[@nikolaymutev7342]

Perfectly done video tutorial ! Thank you !

[@ezech23]

Hey mate, mine started to knocking in the rear passenger side but it is only when i hit big potholes. How long did you have it since it was really bad? Im not sure if this has to be done right now or can wait till some months. Thanks!

[@jamie57061]

Spot on video! A lot easier than i thought! Thanks a lot!

[@BillCarrIpswich]

400 quid to replace the rear beam is a very good quote, especially as an Imaxle beam runs about 200 just for the part.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Bare in mind inflation that seems more reasonable now, but it was also only a cheap car.

[@BillCarrIpswich]

@@CarAndMechanical I think they were still a similar price years back. 15 notes if you're willing to deal with the aggro is great, but 400 for the peace of mind both sides are done and no grazed knuckles is great too, esp. since this is the only big bill you're ever going to get from this car.

[@spyrosbellos2522]

Can this be the cause of the rear wheels having negative camber?

[@riglandsfeldt4807]

The shaft the trailing arm goes over must be replaced as well. When the bearings looks like that, the shaft will have grooves that causes the new bearings to fail again in no time.

[@roberthorwat6747]

Yes and I've had a look to see if there is a vid that shows you how to replace 'em. No can find. How do you get them out? The rate I go through drop links I think just replacing the bearings every now and then quite satisfactory for unauthorised meddlers with crap tools, such as I am.

[@MrBodgeitbrown]

spot on video ...perfectly explained mate now got the confidence to attack it myself cheers

[@mainwelder8292]

brilliant video and a very good explained.....thank you

[@markbristow2606]

I've tried to follow your steps on how to do the bushes but I can't get the bars out

[@timtimothy6053]

so the negative camber of the wheel its caused buy the trailing arm bears ?? or the whole axle. ???

[@willtricks9432]

Watched this, a Great how to . Thanks

[@romeosanchez6221]

you literally saved my life

[@roderickmiller3847]

Dear Sir. I have just watched your video on repairing trailing arm bearings, on a Peugeot. My question is, I have a Citron C5 With the same problem, is the procedure the same? Any information would be appreciated. Rod M

[@billyparr9689]

Cheers mate big help took some stress of my mind anyway

[@darrenlee2510]

great help using this video. help me loads. keep up the great work.

[@Yannis2022]

Trailing arm stuck due to torsion bar stuck and gonna try with a jack hammer. Should I hammer on the torsion bar or on the trailing arm?

[@llewellynwilliams1956]

you pick a lovely day to do it

[@willswheels283]

People say that replacing the bearings instead of the whole beam is more difficult and that you can find that the trailing arm bearing housing can also be worn. So is this true? as your video makes it look pretty straight forward.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Sorry for the delay coming back to you - it's a toss up of effort vs cost and how good the replacement unit is. Probably easier to replace the unit but might cost more and roll of the dice with the life left in it.

[@jdt5964]

Brilliant, well explained and delivered.

[@gstree]

A good video, however I do a fair number of these in my job as a mechanic and if the bearings have been worn for ages very often the tube that the bearings fit over will be worn as well, sometimes just fitting bearings will not cure the problem unfortunately. but worth the try and as I said a good video.

[@CarAndMechanical]

+gstree I agree, sometimes it's triage though and this was a close one, but it mainly just needed to be back on the road even if OTR was 10-20k

[@luisrios1140]

🇨🇱📻👂🎧🎶👋🏻🦕🦖 Gracias Tengo el mismo problema ojalá pueda encontrar esos rodamientos Saludos desde chile No entiendo nada de tu idioma pero esta muy claro el video

[@josefschubernig7627]

You must replace the complete set with the bold and the bearing .!!!!!!!!!!!

[@dwfmedia]

Absolutely dab tutorial, this is my next job so this video is fab, thanks .. I'm a little confused by having to measure the distance of the bar,I think you said it was 220 mm or something,is that because it fits on splines or something? It makes me think that I could get this bit wrong , I'll research anyway but this is a fab video thanks

[@CarAndMechanical]

Basically you want the height the same after as before if that makes sense. So the measurement before lets you know where it was.

[@adrianleighuk]

Great video and something I've got to have a go at. Out of interest, how would you go about doing both sides at the same time? The car I'm working squeaks all the time from both sides?

[@MrFaceonline]

nice video, have to change the bearings on my pug 206. Is it possible to remove/delete the middle stabilisator bar? will it have big impact on driving experience, cornering etc? I have seen used/repaired rear beams with removed middle stabilizator bar. How about swapping the needle bearings with self lubricating bronze or plastic bushes? especially the outside bearing, where the axle is usually also damaged.

[@oscarzt1652]

when would you want to undertake this task? what symptoms would suggest this is needed?

[@stuartmays]

Cheers mate,thank you

[@valttelaapotti1288]

The washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt so is it mandatory to get washer off to get torsion bar removed?

[@enricomontanari5029]

Hi I can t get the plate of the antiroll bar off nor can I get the antirol bar tocome out from the other side what do I do am totoally stuck tried with levers etc

[@willswheels283]

Which is easier, replacing the axle beam or axle bearings independantly?

[@bikeman7726]

Ive put new bearing on mine but the trail arm stil moves up down lik springy and when driving is knocking the otherside is solid prob ceased on dos this mean the axel is worn be on repair ive hammerd it on as far as poss but stil moves

[@benjaminmartinussen2388]

How much time did you spent on this? btw great video :)

[@ivanpage2813]

Great video , wondering if it's the same as the citroen xsara n1 ?

[@stephenwickenden3492]

will do cheers mate thank you good video.

[@paulmiller1594]

Does anyone no if this is the same for a Peugeot 206 cc with abs??

[@paulwinters9885]

Truly excellent DIY video. Now how does the brake backing plate come off the axel (10:27)? Just undoing the 4 Torx bolts or did you use a 3-arm puller? Cheers.

[@CarAndMechanical]

Sorry for the delay - yep it's undo and pop off...or pry if unlucky job. I think I noted in the video we ended up doing the opposite side but end of the day one side comes off.

[@stephenhurry2177]

Is it the same for both sides

[@rustybucket7891]

hi there im just about to replace my bushing but on my peugeot I have rear break calipers not drums are they as easy to take off as drums ?

[@paulinechives8138]

Amazing video....well done

[@heyderdinho]

Muito bem explicado! Está de parabéns! Me ajudou muito! 👍

[@MrDemiraca]

10:25 I CANT GET MY OFF THAT EASY!! IM PULLING AND PUSHING BUT NOTHING? SEEMS STUCK BUT IVE LOOSEN ALL SCREWS LIKE YOU DID...

[@hindsonracing]

hit it with your purse

[@Syrad79]

Thax for the nice vid

[@cameroncameron4274]

Give it a wiggle and it comes off,my arse does it. Blow lamp a lot of hammering.

[@linuscardell1895]

Awesome movie! i would like to know how to do on the left side also. shouldn't I change on the both sides at the same time? Thanks! / Linus

[@InitialDave]

Linus Cardell If you're doing the job, yes, it's likely beneficial to change the other side as well, even if it doesn't seem to be gone yet, as it's probably not far behind. It's pretty much exactly the same procedure, only the torsion bar is the other one, and you may not need to remove the anti-roll bar completely to get the other suspension arm off.

[@jasetheaceable]

Where did I go wrong followed step by step got all the way to getting trailing arm off but it would not come off no matter what I tried , have you got any suggestions please ?

[@CarAndMechanical]

Hi, sorry for the delay - have you tried from the other side? I mention in the video we had fun from one side but it came off the other.

[@jasetheaceable]

How do u mean sorry

[@LubomirFotev]

Great video! Thanks for making it. I'm about to do the exercise myself and I saw that apart from the bearing some people replace the axels too, what's your criteria for replacing those?

[@philipyates7138]

Did you do the job, how was it

[@LubomirFotev]

@@philipyates7138 not yet, turns out my knocking wasn't coming from there.

[@adamstilldrives]

Lubomir did you have wheel play like the one in the video did? Did you find the knocking?

[@Grahammilsome]

How did the torsion bar come out complete with the arm when I don't see where you undid the bolt on the near side?

[@powermos]

2:59 mate

[@dragomirionut5992]

very good question. i have tried myself very hard but not succeed. only with a very big hammer from left to right i beat up after i have used flame to heate that area where the torsion bar seats in both ends. very triccky and i have been helped by 2 neighbours . this aspect is very important but it is missing from the clip. great job anyway.

[@DIETRYING001]

whats the difference in the kits that come with a shaft for this repair?

[@CarAndMechanical]

Not sure on kits as such, these were the bearings picked up from EuroCarParts or ebay from memory.

[@TheAlexsvx]

Thanks grate video =D

[@04nano0410]

very good job!!!

[@spiritualconnections286]

was gonna buy a 206. is this a common fault?

[@CarAndMechanical]

I think it's one to watch out for. It'll be fairly obvious is the car has it as it'll be noisy or the quick jack up and wobble test will show.

[@Leckmichamarschalle]

Super gemacht

[@amboss594]

Der Kommentar hat keine semantische Bedeutung, er unterstützt nur das Video und den Autor des Kanals.

[@robert51045]

Good one

[@simonp.1394]

My swingarms just wont come off.... some wiggeling didnt do it 😅

[@willefrit04]

explained perfect.if you are born of english speaking perents drop it people maybe

[@CosgroveNotts]

Good lad

[@nigeltegg]

You forgot to mention, that if the bearings have worn a groove into the axle Journal (steel stub) you need to replace that too kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2aXhGyHapWqgZY for that you'll need 2.5m M20 screwed rod, special tool to hook behind the axle journal, steel tube longer than the replacement axle journal, and a big lump of steel with 20mm hole, and M20 nut and washer and a long 30mm spanner to turn it...

[@willefrit04]

yes ..there is something rotten in the state of denmark.every part of a car is groving fast it is not possibel to fix.

[@willefrit04]

just need. forget it it is rotten together.so what .you never try stuf who is groving together.

[@perfekt526]

When ypu pulled the arm of and there was no seal... you should have stopped and just bought a new one

[@geoffpartis234]

Brilliant video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. However, and there is always a 'however', my torsion bars were totally seized in their housings and would not come off like the ones in your video. I had to find a six foot long by one and a quarter inch solid bar which I slid over the subframe to be able me to hit the torsion bar housing from behind. I had to really swing a 7lb sledge hammer at full swing to move the bar out of its splines. If in doubt, hit it harder! The torsion bar eventually came out of the subframe leaving the bar still attached to the arm. I repeated the process with a vice on the ground and a car ramp to support my bar in the right position. I then hit the end of the bar with the sledge hammer and after about ten minutes real hard hammering I managed to get the bar out of the swinging arm. It was safer to use the bar to avoid damaging the brake pipe holder bracket. I then cleaned just the rust off the splines with a thread file and ended up with a torsion bar that would slide in and out of its housing. Using the six foot long bar meant I was hammering away from the bodywork and the arm, making the risk of damaging the car or arm less. Yes, I really did swing the hammer hard! Re-assembly was easy and as 'per the video', although I find the inner bearing hard to get in and used a bearing puller kit. Thank you for a really good video.

[@jessestrum]

superb video and very well explained thanks

[@jamshadahmed3126]

do you know if torsion bar only comes out from one side?

[@liudasliepa616]

+Jamshad Ahmed Yes, the stripes show the thicker side. You should be able to knock them out from thiner side to thicker.

[@paulmiller1594]

Does anyone no if this is the same for a Peugeot 206 cc with abs??

[@richardhume2811]

Did this job last week. No garage would touch it. A recon axle was £200 so bought the bearings and got stuck in. It didn't go to plan. Took about 12 hrs to do. The main problem was that my bearings hadn't collapsed. They had seized then tightened onto the shaft. Car cornered great as it basically had no rear suspension. It took hours of heating hammering using pullers etc to get one axle off the other one was not as bad and came off with less sweat. The stupid washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt idea is an absolute nightmare at the end of the torsion bars. One bolt never came out in the end. Never mind all done now but at one point I almost gave up and just set the car on fire !!

[@richardhume2811]

One thing to say is that knocking out and putting the new bearings in was the easiest part of the job :)

[@CarAndMechanical]

Firstly - congrats I think this job comes in different flavours of anger looking through various comments. Quite a few have said they've beaten 7 shades of the thing to get the torsion bar out and when we worked on this is was just a little tricky, it sounds like you got the full FFS treatment. I hope you treated yourself to a nice beer or 4 after, also must be rewarding to of gotten it done.

[@trevermartinn9679]

Hi, I am in the middle of doing this job but I am stuck because the driver side trailing arm will not come free from lower roll bar , I have removed the torq bolt and washer which was very very rusted in. I expected the trailing arm to come free from the splines of the roll bar but it won't. I notice in this video that the roll bar comes off with the trailing arm but I think mine is still connected at the other end . either way with the torq bolt and washer out the arm should hammer free from the roll bar shouldn't it ? Any comments appreciated Trevor

[@sean12393]

Go and buy yourself a 12lb sledgehammer, seriously

[@xavierrogers6171]

I try to remove, but the trailer won't come off. I don't know why.

[@lindenbarwise6034]

Good video and after watching it I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself, on hinde sight I wished I never, although it's a good video, theirs a lot missing, main part Ben the removal of the torsion bar.

[@Madsstuff]

Fabulous. Is this the same way in which you can lower the backend too, Just by changing which tooth the arms latch into?? I need to replace both my arms, I want to drop the back end a little too.

[@kirazh1646]

hey ..great work...but I have a question..is this repairing way works for the second side (the left side) too. thx :-)

[@CarAndMechanical]

Hi, thanks and sorry for the delay in coming back to you. It should be the same for both sides - as seen in the video we didn't get the torsion bar out of the side we were working on so had to get it out from the other side.

[@Nildur1]

Its same replacement parts for peugeot 206 2.0 HDI 66 kw 2001 ?

[@campbellpurdie7274]

Great video, thanks for putting it online. I've got this very problem, I can easily manage that now I've seen how to do it. Thanks.

[@realmediaproductions3184]

is trailing arm bearings also called needle bearings?

[@amirouw]

Nice job . But are you sure that the main axle foley is intact ?? Imean . . . The backbone of this PSA rear axle is a big hollow tube and two smaller ones fitted to one side of that . How can you make sure its not bended or ....

[@olivermunch6550]

Ich weiß, das Video ist schon älter, aber ich möchte auch etwas dazu sagen, aber auch anmerken, dass ich kein Mechaniker bin. Im Video wird die Unterlegscheibe für den Drehstab entfernt. Warum? Beim entfernen der alten Lager ist der Drehstab immer noch im Achsschenkel! Die Unterlegscheibe verhindert doch eigentlich "nur", dass der Drehstab herauswandert. Wenn man diesen nicht entfernt und sich an der gegenüberliegenden Seite eine Markierung an der Verzahnung der "Buchse" macht, und natürlich am Drehstab, dann kann man bei der Wiederanbringung dieselbe Position wie vorher erreichen und hat somit keine Veränderung am Winkel. Wenn man so Seite für Seite macht, sollte das Fahrwerk eigentlich sein wie vorher. Ich hoffe ich ich rede keinen Blödsinn😊

[@sandyt6691]

What is the triangular rubber thing at the top of the thumbnail? I’m replacing back axle and the metal piece under the rubber thing has rusted and needs replacing.

[@roberthunt3450]

Forget it unless your suspension has only just started knocking. Mine was well warn, the bearing had eaten into the axle shaft get a second hand one

[@glowiever]

no wonder they ditched torsion bar suspension. way simpler to just use torsiom beam instead