How To Replace Boat Engine Mounts Like A Pro Yanmar / Volvo / Beneteau / Jeanneau 3YM30

Hi & Welcome to East Coast Sailing. I'm Rob & In todays episode ill show you how to change the engine mounts on your Yanmar engine. This particular model is a 3YM30 Engine but the installation principals are exactly the same even if you have a Volvo engine. Im working on a Beneteau Oceanis 343 built in 2006 but the install process is exactly the same with any of the newer or older models or even if you have a different make such as Jeanneau. The job is quite straight forward and will take just over half a day if your on your own including cleaning of the engine bay and engine plinths and making up washer & nut assemblies. All you need is a few spanners, a decent socket set and a jack you might even have in your car to change the spare wheel. I managed to undo all the bolts but there was only 1 I couldn't torque down on my own and required a hand. The Engine / vibration mounts should be replaced every 4 years or every 1000 engine hours which ever comes earlier. Ill do a separate video about shaft alignment and reinstallation of the propeller shaft. While the shaft was was disconnected from the engine it didn't require much more effort to change the cutlass bearing & the stern seal to the back of the shaft log which ill make separate videos for. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. The boat was lifted out on the hard standing during the installation. I believe it can be done in the water but I wanted to check the shaft was correctly aligned which I don't think can be done in the water as you would have to remove the water seal which would let water in the boat as its below the water line.
Thanks for watching!

[@WillN2Go1]

Good job. Like your superglue trick. Good video. Thanks. Be careful using acetone. It's heavier than air so fumes will settle in the bilge. Acetone fumes ignite easily. Friends lost a brand new boat when one worker had been using acetone, another came on board to do some electrical work. Simple spark set off the acetone. Burned to the waterline and also burned the boat moored next to it. If I need to use acetone on my boat I store it in the dock locker. And think carefully about where the fumes are going to settle. I find the biggest problem with engine work is horrible access and finding where things are. I've got two Yanmar manuals for my 4JH3, the drawings and photos say one thing, the real situation seems different. It's taken me two weeks to find the raw water pump. I know where it is, but I can't see it. Worse I can't even put my fingers on the four bolt heads to confirm that in fact it is there. I think to find these bolts I need to remove the alternator. I was being a good boat owner wanting to replace the impeller. Finding out this is nearly impossible to do, means I definitely should replace it because it's doubtful anyone has replaced it in ten years. There is a used one on board, as an emergency spare, so the job was done at least once. There's only 1300 hours on the engine, Yanmar says only to check it every 1000 hours...

[@EastCoastSailing_]

Hi Will, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Have a look around the engine bay. You might find access hatches by removing panels to get to components easier. Spend an hour with a torch 🔦 As sometime it’s easy to overlook easier access. The manual will show you where the pump is but normally it’s really accessible? I’d change this every year or after a long trip. I do have a water pump rebuild vid I’ll upload in a few days. Very detailed doing a full strip down and diagnosis which might help out and thanks for the heads up on acetone. I never store it on the boat, only when cleaning up paintwork. I’m also doing a full overhaul on the heater matrix which might help. Make sure you subscribe as I have some great sailing also covering 600nm around the channel island. Thanks for watching

[@mickeydawson348]

Nice! New to your channel but I like what I've seen so far. Doing the autopilot motor this week (as soon as it arrives), and maybe I'll tackle the motor mounts next winter. No real symptoms of problems, but I'll bet they're original 1987 vintage..

[@EastCoastSailing_]

Hi Mickey. I'm glad you’re enjoying the content. Just been for a really amazing tour round the Channel Islands and south coast of Uk and had some great sailing in over 32 knots. Some of the vids will be ready in a few weeks and thanks for the comment. All the best, Rob

[@RoyClare]

Very encouraging! I probably need to look at doing mine, one of these years …. 😊

[@EastCoastSailing_]

Yeah it wasn’t too much hassle she’s all ready to go in now any day 👌🏼

[@essexrowleys]

Hello Roy, will Piper be berthed across from Lou-Lou Belle again this season?

[@essexrowleys]

Great video Rob, and it was good to meet you the other day. Fortunately this isn't a job I'll need to do on my little boat!

[@EastCoastSailing_]

Likewise and great to see your new boat! Always great to meet people interested in the channel 👌🏼

[@jokeralpha4482]

Were you hauled out or on the Hard when you replaced the mounts? I am wondering if this job be done while in the water?

[@EastCoastSailing_]

Hi, you can 💯 do the mounts when the boats in the water but if I were you i would wait until the end of the season before the lift out if its not a major issue. That way you can remove the stern seal to check the drive shaft is central to the hole. Also you can change the stern seal and cut-less bearing while you’re there but stern seal can’t come off when the boats in the water. I found some real shockers on the seal and drive shaft. I have yet to put that video up and the drive shaft was toast due to all the pitting and scoring. Have a look at the gori prop video Then support the drive shaft horizontally and vertically and then align your engine to this. The mounts will compress also. I have had to do 2 alignment adjustments to get it perfect and didn’t spill a drop of water from the seals. Hope that helps. All the best Rob

[@nathanjacobi1058]

Be back in the water soon mate