How to replace Hydraulic Valve Lifters on a 2006 Hyundai Accent

#pannonicmechanic
In this video i show you, how i replace the Hydraulic Valve Lifters on my 2006 Hyundai Accent. Before you replace them, you should do an oilchange and it´s necessary to remove the Timing Belt.
Please do this only, if you have mechanic skills! My profession is mechanic, i know how to do it! I´m not responsible for damages!
Video created with Movavi Video Suite 18
www.movavi.de

[@ziyadfrancisco3643]

I have the same car ! from now on i will follow all your videos ! Please make more videos whenever you replace or fix something in this car ! I can't thank you enough !

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. I will do my best, but in the last time the car runs good.

[@superfluff106]

Clear camera shots and you don’t yammer through the whole video. Liked and subbed. Thanks.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. I´m glad you like it. :)

[@cernnus-3799]

Thanks for showing all the process, learned a lot from this 👍🏻

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words.

[@LouPicardo]

Quite insightful mate

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you.

[@franciscomarchant3016]

aprendo mirando asi lo ago con mi auto hiunday euro 1.3 gracias por el video

[@pannonicmechanic]

De nada, buena suerte.

[@didyouknow138]

Thank you for the great video. Wondering if I have automatic accent 2005, 1.3l Petrol what is part number or where can i get them . thanks

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi, thanks for your nice words. I bought them aftermarket online, so i can´t give you an original part number. You could try to order them also online with the correct data of your car. Sorry that i can´t help you more.

[@redkogiot4054]

Very nice video and helpful. But how you aligned the camshaft to its position when you put back in? Using this little pin sticking out of camshaft and the arrow above?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. The mark on the camshaft wheel must line up with the mark on the valve cover or on the cylinder head. When you place in the camshaft, the metal pin should be in 12 o´clock position. After mounting the camshaft wheel, you may only do a little adjustment with the hole and as you said, the arrow above, which is also marked with red paint. You can see this more exactly in my Timing Belt videos.

[@redkogiot4054]

Thank you very much, keep up your great work!!!! Also consider to do a head gasket replacement video in the future. And thanks again!!

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for the suggestion of doing a head gasket replacement. I would like to show you that, but i the Hyundai Accent is not a car, which had many problems with that part. I owned one for 19 years and had 377.000km on it, one time losing all the cooling water and the head gasket had no damage.

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

Sizi yeni keşfettim emeğinize sağlık çok güzel olmuş

[@pannonicmechanic]

Tesekür ederim. :)

[@enriqueorihuela8717]

Thank you mister, I am Enrique Peru

[@pannonicmechanic]

Your welcome. :)

[@penangtv6108]

Very nice & clear video. Actually why were you replacing them? This engine looks identical to my 05 getz 1.3. I'm having white smoke slightly when idling, worst when revving, & worst when the radiator fan kicks on. Doesn't seem to be a milkshake in the engine oil as the valve cover gasket was replaced. I'm thinking it's coolent getting into the combustion chamber from a broken head gasket? Thanks 👍😊

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you very much. I was replacing the lifters because of a knocking noise, but unfortunately the problem was not solved by 100%. The preowners of the car were older people and they were driving not much and so the car got maintenance rarely. The Getz and the Accent are from the same period and the 1.3l engines should be the same, or with minor modifications. Your assumption is correct, the problem can be cooling water, but it can be oil also. Is it necessary for you to refill cooling water and oil? If water, i would replace the head gasket. If oil, i would start ( i did that at another Accent) with the valve stem seals. Unfortuntely both are long and difficult jobs.

[@penangtv6108]

@@pannonicmechanic thanks so much for your reply. Yes I'm monitoring both the oil & coolent levels after my mechanic topped them off. The coolent level should drop in the black cap overflow tank right? Or do I need to open the silver radiator cap? I'm thinking there must be a way to tell if it's more likely coolent or oil by the behavior of the exhaust smoke? If it's dramatically worst during startup & revving, doesn't it suggest coolent, as the increased pressure is generated by the water pump which increases with RPM? On idling the smoke is faint. The properties of the smoke also seems similar to steam & dissipates fast. Not a very heavy smell, but very white when revving. Also if I assume correctly the thermostat opens to allow more coolent to pass = increased pressure, corresponds to the increased smoke when the radiator fan kicks on maybe? All just my theory as I've not worked on cars 😀

[@pannonicmechanic]

PENANG TV You should control both. The overflow tank and the cooler also, but please only at cold engine. The overflow tank has two functions: 1. When you have not enough cooling water in the cooler, that´s your reservoir. A reason for that can be a leak in the cooler, the engine or on the hoses/tubes. 2. When there is "too much" cooling water in the cooler, it can expand into the overflow tank. You can have too much fluid in the cooler, because you should fill it up at cold engine. When the system becomes hot by operating/in service, the fluid expands into the overflow tank. That all is possible by the valve in the cooler cap. Your theories are very good. The problem is that oil and water are not easy to distinguish. For example: too much fuel, too less air-> black smoke oil-> gray/white/light blue smoke water-> usually white smoke The smoke means, that your car consumes water or oil, maybe both. It get´s into the combustion chamber and therefore you can see the smoke. I had gray smoke at one of my cars and i knew that the car consumed oil. In my case that was a heavy smoke and it disappeared slowly. So one day i replaced the valve stem seals and the oil consumption of the car was much less and it didn´t smoke any more. In some cases the oil is intermixing with the cooling fluid, but you told that your engine looked good at replacing the valve cover gasket. However, you should monitor both fluids, but i think your problem is a broken cylinder-head gasket. That should be repaired as soon as possible, except you don´t want to invest that amount of money and time in such an old car. Unfortunately that job is expensive and needs about one day or more of work. At this opportunity it´s recommendable to overhaul the cylinder head too. (valves, valve stem seals, etc.) I hope i could help you a little bit with this informations.

[@penangtv6108]

@@pannonicmechanic thank you for your detailed information. Is there a danger of rust or water compromising the piston rings & combustion chamber assuming water is in the chamber? Trying to gauge urgency as I'm having a flu. The inside of my coolent overflow tank seems rather brown but water is clear. Assuming rust has caused a gasket failure, would it be wise to replace the water pump? Although I personally don't hear a lot about pump failures. I'll add the valve stem seals to my list. I'm quite lucky to live in Malaysia where it's still possible to repair cars for cheap. I think newer cars post 2010 became too complex & plasticky, it even started in 05 with BMW, Marc, then Peug, Citr, Volks, 😊

[@pannonicmechanic]

PENANG TV Your welcome. When the cylinder head gasket is leaky, you get permanently water into the combustion chamber. While your engine is running, you see that as white smoke at your exhaust. When the engine doesn´t run and you have pressure on your cooling system (after driving the car), the combustion chamber slowly fills up with water and then the cylinder begins to rust. You have oil on the cylinderwall, but that isn´t a protection forever. So it would be good, when you could repair your car as fast as possible. I had another Hyundai Accent for 19 years and i replaced the waterpump in the beginning because of a noise. Since then i had never problems with it and at the end the car had 377.000km on the odometer. On the other side when you want to replace the cylinder head gasket, you should also replace the timing belt included the tensioner pulley too. When you do that all, the water pump is not a really big additional investment. If you don´t do that and it has a failure later, you must disassemble the timing belt again and drain the cooling water, to replace the waterpump. When you can do that, it´s only work for you. When the Mechanic does that, you must pay him for that. I know that big repairs are expensive, but when you want to save 50 dollars, you must pay later 350.- (for example) for the whole work again. I don´t know how much that costs in Malaysia, but in Europe that is realistic. The newer cars have many electronic components and failures can be hard to find. In many cases you need an OBD2 Scanner to check the error codes. And after that you must also check many parts, because the scanner doesn´t tell you the defective part. Only that there is an error with the fuel system, for example. Cars before 2000 are sometimes also hard to repair, because electronic parts existed at that time also. So it can be hard to find a workshop, which has and old scanner to check the error codes and Mechanics, who can remember those old cars. Meanwhile they are over 20 years old and it can be easier to repair a car, which is 40 years old without an injector system and electronic ignition. There you can repair/replace parts and do an adjustment of the carburetor, the ignition, etc.

[@mileydiz]

Tremendo motor

[@samlrsasi5114]

Thenk you mister

[@pannonicmechanic]

Your welcome. :)

[@kkc3009]

For some reason one day they usually start to sound like this. Some have multiple lifter/tappets that tick in synchronized patterns and then one at a time or in pairs they just go quiet again. That's how mine is. Takes about 4-5 minutes of running in cold temps to stop doing it. But they usually start doing this in cold weather. As you said in other comments it's probably oil blockages to the lifter. Once the oil warms up if the passage isn't totally plugged solid they get oil again and become quiet. Other people get other noises and think it's the common lifter tick then they kill their engine lol. Sucks it did not totally fix the annoying tick. Sometimes the commercial engine cleaner products work for this because it cleans those oil passageways out in stages.

[@pannonicmechanic]

I had an Accent before and i had the same problem at that car. In that case the lifters were worn out, i replaced them and the problem was gone. At this car my problem is, that the preowners were older people. They were driving only a little and doing service/oilchange rarely. So i´m sure, that i have a blockage somewhere in the oil lines. When i have much time, i will check that again.

[@H_de_Weert]

@Pannonic mechanic I would be interested to hear from you by then. I've got this ticking too. I tried a (some say dangerous) engine flush, where I first changed the oil, then added a Liqui Moly oil flush additive, ran the engine for 15 minutes, changed the oil again and then added an hydraulic valve lifter additive. Sadly this did not solve the problem either.

[@pannonicmechanic]

@H_de_Weert Hi. How bad is your problem? Do you have the noise loud and for a long time or only at cold engine? Sadly i had no time time to check the oil lines to the lifters. I removed the oil sump and checked the hose of the oilpump, but that part was ok. What could be helpful eventually, is to do an oilchange with a more thin oil. 5W40 or 0W40. I had both in my first Accent for 10.000km and had absolutely no problems because of that. Maybe the oil consumption of the engine can be more high. I tried also a few engine cleaner liquids and additives, but none of them helped.

[@wojtekmarel8159]

@@pannonicmechanic it is problem with oilpomp

[@wojtekmarel8159]

@@pannonicmechanic Try replacing the oil pump valve (Hyundai 26122 3E000) and spring (Hyundai 26123 4A000). Apparently the valve is faulty, causing the oil pressure to be too low, but the indicator does not light up. The parts concern the 1.3i engine. I have one.

[@HyundaiYoza]

Saludos. Yo le cambie a mi auto todos los elevadores y sigue haciendo ruido. Que problema podria ser??

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hola. Tengo este problema también. Sospecho que mis líneas de aceite están obstruidas.

[@aboddmaaly4537]

Hello mr i want ask you I have car like this car and i change valve and the voice of valve is still what the problem? If u can answer me

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi! In my car i still have the same problem, but not so bad any more. In my case and maybe in yours too, there can be some blockade in one or more oil linings. In the worst case the noise can come from somewhere other too. The crankshaft bearings can make a similar noise too for example. On my car i want to check the nozzle of the oil pump too.

[@H_de_Weert]

@Pannonic mechanic Did you ever solve this problem still?

[@pannonicmechanic]

@H_de_Weert Unfortunately not. I had no motivation and the time to disassemble the engine that much.

[@Yuryboyka747]

Buenas amigo tengo un Hyundai accent se suenan mucho los buzos hidráulicos los bajé y los cargué todos pero al rato sigue igual el sonido.....o será el tipo de aceite o poner nuevos será la solución.....

[@pannonicmechanic]

Buenos días. Por desgracia, tengo un problema similar con mi Accent. Mi motor sigue traqueteando después de que los hidro taqués fueron reemplazados. Quiero comprobar el tubo de admisión de aceite y si eso no ayuda, los tubos a los taqués hidráulicos.

[@cristhianbravo731]

Great video what is the torque of the valve cover?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you so much. The torque for the valve cover screws is 8-10Nm, but i tightened them only by hand, without a torque wrench. They are M6 screws, the cylinder head is made from aluminum and the valve cover is a plastic one. So you may not tighten them too much. You must also think about the rubber gasket, which you must press down by tightening the screws. If you don´t use a torque wrench, you may do a few rounds till all of the screws are tightened well, but careful.

[@cristhianbravo731]

@@pannonicmechanic I was able to solve it with your advice, thanks

[@pannonicmechanic]

@Christhian Bravo Thank you so much! I´m happy, that my video was helpful for you. That´s the reason, why i do this.

[@manusb6441]

Hi there sir, so how does one know when the camshaft is aligned and how do you set the engine timing if anything goes wrong just best to always double check. Kind Regards

[@manusb6441]

And what torque specs work with a G4HC(Hyundai Atoz 1.1 gls 2006)

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. I would recommend you another of my videos. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHa6iGl6e798Z9E In this i show and explain the timing marks and how to align them correctly. It´s similar at many cars, but there are always some little differences.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Unfortunately i´m not familiar with that car, but maybe i can help you. Which torque specs do you need?

[@manusb6441]

@@pannonicmechanic Sorry I should have been more specific, Torque specs on the head. I say thank you sir, the timing already helps greatly!

[@manusb6441]

@@pannonicmechanic Also I'd like to know how does one spot the difference with sound, Injector tick vs Lifter tick. I'd appreciate some input🙏

[@yelcesgonzalez9560]

Amigo buenas noches. Tengo un problema. Sabes q le cambiaron los taquetes a mi accent 1.3 y los montaron nuevos y les colocaron unas arandelitas arriba d los taquetes como tal. Y ahora el carro quedó peor según el mecánico dice q es por q los taquetes quedaron muy ajustados y por eso falla . Usted q cree q sea amigo me podría ayudar

[@pannonicmechanic]

Buenos dias. En este caso tienes que desmontar todo de nuevo y buscar el error. Si antes no había arandelas, no deberías añadir ninguna. Definitivamente los tornillos deben estar apretados al par correcto. Te deseo mucha suerte con la reparación.

[@apoloniodugarte4650]

Cómo limpiar el cuerpo de válvulas de un jiunday accen

[@orb666tpc]

Is this the same engine with 2004 Hyundai Matrix 1.6 AT?

[@pannonicmechanic]

No, unfortunately not. Mine is a 1.3.

[@Ali25960]

Enjektör temizleme. Ve devirdaim pompa degişim video yaparmısınız.teşekkür ederim.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Pompa devam ediyor, lütfen sabırlı olun.

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

Hi, the engine is dismantled at the moment 1. In which case should the valve lifters be changed? 2. What is the difference between the old valve lift and the new one, thank you very much

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. 1. The hydralic valve lifters should be replaced, when they make a knocking noise, that means that they are worn out. In many cases it´s possible that the engine still works fine, but that is only a temporary condition. 2. I´m sorry, i never disassembled one. There are springs in the lifters, i think they become weak and so they don´t work correctly any more. On my first Accent i replaced the lifters with more than 200.000km. The valve sealings at 180.000km. I hope these informations are helpful for you.

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

@@pannonicmechanic Hi, I watched your video, you put in the little valve lifter, you squeezed it between two fingers and it was hard, you took the new one out of the bag, it was soft between two fingers, I say that on control, the difference is hardness yum

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. In this case it was a little bit hard. The replacing of the lifters didn´t really solved the problem. What i did was a test to see a difference, but i didn´t checked all of them.

[@rodrigoivanvillagranpainem8235]

Tengo perdida de aceite, cuando cambio bujias tienen manchas de aceite que debo cambiar?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Dónde están las manchas de aceite? Sobre las bujías o debajo del coche?

[@mileydiz]

Si no vota humo constante son los sellos de valvula

[@barsdogan9647]

Teşekkürler

[@pannonicmechanic]

Lütfen.

[@Ali25960]

Bu video nuzda türkçe alt yazı yok.videolarınıza türkçe alt yazı eklermisiniz.tesekkür ederim.

[@pannonicmechanic]

İlginiz için teşekkür ederiz. Zaten bitti. :)

[@slmafricaafrica6095]

🙋🙋👍👍🌹🌹🇩🇿🇩🇿

[@mahfoudyoucef6822]

Whay you remove camshaft

[@pannonicmechanic]

Because i replaced the sealing rings also and by removing the camshaft it´s easier. It was also easier for replacing the lifters to remove the whole unit and to work outside of the engine.

[@zamandayolcu2789]

🙂🙂🙂🙂

[@itumelengtshaole7052]

Interesting. I have the same issue with my 2004 1.3L engine, I replaced 8 valves , then changed the rest of 4...the noise is still there especially after sitting for a day. The sound is like 1 or 2 lifters making a knock. Will it help if I change all of them again n put a thicker oil like hx7?

[@pannonicmechanic]

To be honest, i have the same problem. In my case the preowner of the car were older people. They didn´t drive much and made oil change/service rarely. I think there is a blockage in one of the oil lines and i think about to disassemble the whole cylinder head. I would like to check the oil pump too, or the oil intake tube first. At my car the noise is gone, when the engine is hot. At your car too?

[@itumelengtshaole7052]

@@pannonicmechanic yes it is little quiet when hot but still makes a noise sometime...let me try replacing oil because the oil that was used was thinner n wares off too fast. I'll replace those lifters n try again. I'll give feedback.

[@pannonicmechanic]

To replace the oil is the easiest and fastest way. I use 10W40 oil, that car doesn´t need a better one. In my case i thought to try a 0W40 also, because that´s more thin and the noise is better at warm engine. If you want to replace the lifters again, please check all of the oil lines to the lifters because of blockages.

[@itumelengtshaole7052]

@@pannonicmechanic ok thanks I'll do so also.

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

I disassembled my car so that the piston is visible, I put a new gasket and I will assemble it.The question is, should I apply hot glue to a gasket ? 2.With how many torque meters should I tighten the tightening job ? I do not know English, it was written from the translation, thank you

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. Thanks for your questions, they are good ones. 1. Please do not add any glue to the cylinder head gasket. The surfaces should be absolutely clean and free of old gasket remains, oil and cooling fluid. Please clean thoroughly. 2. The cylinder head screws must be tightened in several steps with the correct torque and the correct sequence. Normally you can read that on the packaging of the gasket. If not, you need the exact engine code for the correct data. Translation or not, it was absolutely understandable. Thank you. :)

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

OK Hyundai Accent 1,3 ; do you want engine number or chassis number? Best regards, thanks

[@pannonicmechanic]

The engine number would be helpful.

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

@@pannonicmechanic Engine no : G4EAY860683 Also I'm 60 years old best regards thanks

[@inanyorsanbasarrsn2610]

@@pannonicmechanic Excuse me, you can provide other necessary torque information. Best regards

[@redzone2005]

What problem this car? Tapper sound before repair?

[@pannonicmechanic]

I had/have a knocking noise when the engine runs. Unfortunately the replacement of the lifters didn´t solve the problem. I want to check the oil linings when i have enough time for that.

[@redzone2005]

@@pannonicmechanic how about oil sump ? maybe dirty..

[@pannonicmechanic]

I did it last wekend, it will be one of my next videos. Unfortunately it didn´t help.

[@louhabibrahim7480]

What wase the problème mister​@@pannonicmechanic

[@pannonicmechanic]

@louhabibrahim7480 I had/have a knocking noise when the engine runs. Unfortunately the replacement of the lifters didn´t solve the problem.

[@ertugrulgungor8231]

🤗

[@ryleepowers]

this is not an 06

[@pannonicmechanic]

Yes, you are right, it´s a 2005 Model. (LC)