How to replace the Timing Belt on a Hyundai Accent, long version

[@codybroken]

THANK YOU! excellent camera work and video editing shows exactly what you're dealing with and what needs to happen PERFECT demonstration of setting TDC

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. I´m happy to hear, that i was succesful to explain this job.

[@CaseyStys]

Appreciate your detailed video. Thank you. I compiled a step-by-step instruction sheet for our 2009 Accent. My impact wrench could not remove the 22mm crank bolt; had to get a pulley holder tool. The teeth on the timing belt were dry-rotted and fell off, then the crank gear just spun. Arizona summers did not help. As you know, engine is interference. Lucked out. Engine started instantly, idled fine and runs good. Dodged that bullet.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. I´m very happy about your success. I had that situation on another car and could fix it also. Fortunately it was a freerunner.

[@LouPicardo]

Good video mate... this is a crucial maintenance task on these vehicles since they have interference engines. If that belt breaks all hell breaks lose... greetings from the Dominican Republic.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. Yes you are right and therefore it´s important, to do that job in time. It´s not really easy and much work, therefore it´s expensive in a workshop. I struggled to show you the whole operation. Greetings. :)

[@meharsamba]

This was good. Proper explanation. No bullshit

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you very much! The reason for my videos is to help and assist you with maintenance and problems. Such commendations tell me, that i do my thing right. Thank you so much!

[@MrWoodstar1]

I have two questions: 1. Did you make sure the marks were lined up before you took the belt off for easy replacement? 2. You tightened the right tensioner from below. Afterwords, you loosened and tightened it again. Why did you do that? This is an excellent video, thanks.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. Question 1: It´s absolutely necessary to line up the timing marks before removing the timing belt, because of two reasons. -So you can go sure, that everything is assembled correct and work correct. -You want that your engine is assembled correct after your work also. If not, it can cause fatal damages to your engine. By the way, you can see that at the beginning of the video. Question 2: After rotating the engine it can happen, that the tension is not 100% correct. Therefore i loosen and tighten it again to see, if something happens. I had this on other cars where you have marks on the tensioner pulley which shows you the correct tension. And sometimes it happened, that i adjusted the tension a few times included rotating the engine, till it was correct. I hope i answered your questions. Thanks for your nice words. :)

[@josephbingham1255]

Very nice. If just replacing belt and not the adjuster another idea is to loosen the adjuster tension just like in the video. Then rotate engine while with a sharp knife cutting the timing belt in half length wise. Remove the half closest yourself. Slide new belt onto timing belt cogs and push up to the 1/2 width original belt. Cut and remove remaining original belt. Push the replacement belt all the way on the cogs. Loosen adjuster.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. Your method is interesting, but i would be afraid to damage the new timing belt.

[@josephbingham1255]

@@pannonicmechanic Just use the knife on the old belt. Of course this method is for persons not sure of timing mark alignment and such.

[@pannonicmechanic]

@josephbingham1255 Ok, that´s a good explanation. Because this is/was my profession, i know about the timing marks and if you don´t have, you should make some with paint. When the engine was running good, you can make marks on each pulley in the correct way and it should be ok.

[@jrock-xs9vp]

Thanks for your video I have the courage to do the job😊

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. I wish you good success. :)

[@ganderthepanda8146]

Great video! I’ll be doing this on my hyundai at the weekend. Previous owner was unsure if the timing was done and its over due. A couple of the vbelts look worn so I’m assuming not. Wish me luck!

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you very much! I wish you good luck at doing this job. If you need some help, feel free to ask.

[@2020eshaq]

Thank you, brother, for this beautiful explanation

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. :)

[@thomasconti3536]

That sigh at 14:00, I felt that dog. I felt that in my soul.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your comment, you are very attentive and i´m happy that you are watching my video so long. Sometimes (in a youtube video) it´s better not use bad words. In such situations the best thing you can do is, to continue and show a satisfactory result. The reason that i didn´t cut out that small mistake is, i don´t want to show you a perfect world, because it isn´t. It´s more important to show, what can happen by doing this job. And to be honest, it was only a small thing.

[@thomasconti3536]

@@pannonicmechanic Luckily a small thing hahaha. No biggie but still can be frustrating.

[@ChrisGR93_TxS]

imagine working on tdi engines

[@pannonicmechanic]

I worked also on tdi engines and i must say, petrol ones are much easier.

[@Dar86787]

Thanks for this nice video! About the crankshaft pulley bolt…after you removed the crankshaft pulley bolt, crankshaft pulley, flange and the lower cover, did you screw the crankshaft pulley bolt back in and then start turning the crankshaft with a regular wrench and a 22 mm just as if you were tightening it? If ‘yes’, how tight does it need to be before you start rotating the crankshaft? Also, wouldn’t unscrewing the bolt end up turning the crankshaft counterclockwise? Next, When it’s time to put the pulley back on and torque the bolt, how are you able to do it without inadvertently rotating the crankshaft again? Just trying to wrap my mind around the role of this bolt in trying to rotate the crankshaft correctly. I’m replacing the belt on my 2010 accent for the first time. I got my electric impact wrench 8.5 amp ready for the removal of the bolt - I’ll see if it stands up to the task. Thank you!

[@pannonicmechanic]

Good questions, i will try to answer them. When i put back the bolt and started to rotate the engine, i didn´t care how tight it is because it doesn´t matter. You only want to turn the engine, nothing else. Yes, when you want to remove that bolt again, you would turn the crankshaft. There are two methods for this. 1. You use your electric impact wrench. 2. You hit your wrench with only your hand and the crankshaft doesn´t turn. You can see this in my Kia Rio Timing Belt video. I tighten that bolt again with only my impact wrench. When you want to use a torque for that, you need a tool for holding the crankshaft pulley. I have such a tool and i used it, but unfortunately didn´t show it well in these videos. :( By tightening you must be careful with a powerful tool. I wish you good success by doing this job.

[@Dar86787]

Thank you so much! I ended up giving the crankshaft pulley bolt a one-second blast with my impact wrench. I have driven around for two days already and it’s still in place so maybe it won’t come off. I’ll keep monitoring it. Turning the crankshaft was a bit nerve racking at first but after all was done it felt great to hear the car start up the same way as two days before. (Yes- it took me 2 days - about 5 hours to remove everything I ended up taking out the water pump too. And then about 10 hours on the next day putting everything together and refilling coolant.) but in the end the feeling of self satisfaction was great! Thanks again!

[@pannonicmechanic]

I´m happy about your success. Never mind beause of the time, when you do this for yourself and you were successful. Keep it going! Thanks for your nice words. :)

[@SimEon-jt3sr]

I swear this engine seems so easy to work on

[@pannonicmechanic]

That´s also my opinion. I was working on other cars/engines too, asian and european, but this is one of the mechanic friendliest engines of the 2000 aera. The only easier ones were some of the 80s, with no power steering, ac and only one v-belt.

[@yonatancohen7379]

Great video How do u tighten and loosen the crankshaft bolt?

[@pannonicmechanic]

I have a compressor, so i use an impact wrench.

[@edisonsornoza1312]

Excelente video le felisito

[@pannonicmechanic]

Muchas gracias. :)

[@Ali25960]

Vermiş oldugunuz ders için teşekkür ederim. Enjektör söküp temizleme video yaparmısınız. Teşekkürler. İyi aksamlar.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Övgü için teşekkürler. enjektörleri mi kastediyorsun

[@tanner2765]

Where did you get your timing belt? Both Amazon, and Autozone gave me the wrong belt. Different tooth style.

[@pannonicmechanic]

I got it from a car parts store here in the town. Normally i go there, beacuse they have parts with good quality and it´s easy and fast, when something doesn´t fit. It´s sad to hear, that you got from two shops the wrong parts. Don´t you have a local dealer for car parts near to you?

[@callanmurphy9807]

Hey mate, nice video, just curious if you have a longer version showing the full break down. Just seen theres a few others youve done juat wasnt sure if there was one long one haha, and if you have plans of replacing the water pump and water pump pulley? Cheers mate

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thanks for your nice words. As i see you found the long version. ;) I didn´t replace the waterpump, because i hate the cooling water. It´s smell and i hate it on my fingers. That part was ok and so i will do that only, if it´s really necessary. The only thing i lose are a few hours of work. Greetings. :)

[@JoseCarlosministerioomega]

Congratuleicions ,

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you. :)

[@ChrisLoctor]

Where is the oxygen sensor located in the 2005 accent

[@pannonicmechanic]

This model has two of them. One is on the exhaust manifold between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. The second one is after the exhaust flex pipe. I hope i could help you a little bit. I made a quick video for you. :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZuwmpSLm72fnpI

[@breadchaser3151]

Can you tell me why there's 2 white marks on the camshaft?

[@pannonicmechanic]

If you mean the marks at 12 and 3 o´clock position, i think the reason is, if the valve cover is mounted or not. At 12 o´clock position it must be mounted, at 3 o´clock position not. However, you can everytime check with the mark on the camshaft spoke at 12 o´clock position and the cylinderhead.

[@reedcarpenter2994]

Is this the same procedure for a 2009 Kia Rio5 1.6 L ?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Unfortunately not, it´s a different type of engine. Basically the replacement of the Timing Belt itself is the same procedere. Line up the timing marks, loosen the tensioner pulley, etc.

[@97warlock]

once the new belt was on, and tensioner tight....... at that point is where i fired my car up. just to be sure it sounds good,then proceeded with the belts etc etc.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Normally i do the same, because i want to find out early if it works or not. It´s important to mount the crankshaft pulley, otherwise the timing belt can run down.

[@97warlock]

well yeh, definately tighten the CS pulley, snug up everything, I was just saying ...... i wanna know it was a success A.S.A.P after getting the belt on , THEN i can continue on doing the water pump & steering pump etc,belts etc. When I did my ford, as soon as I had things secure with the timing belt, didnt do anything else,just fired it up & it sounded good . Gave it a few pedal pumps,sounded good .......took a break,feeling good, then finished up.@@pannonicmechanic

[@pannonicmechanic]

We both do it by the same way. I wish you a nice weekend. :)

[@warrencampbell4712]

Does bend valves when broke timing belt?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Unfortunately i don´t know, if this engine is a freerunner. On the other side, when the timing belt is broken, you must bring your car home or to a workshop and then replace the timing belt. In the best case you replace it and your engine/car runs again. In the worst case you need valves, sealings, etc., it´s more work to replace the damaged parts and more expensive. So if you replace the timing belt at the correct time, it´s cheaper for you and your car is more reliable.

[@lloydmubika]

i have a2004 hyundai accent 1.5l,i got it with 205 thousand km .i realised the belt is loose on right side of the top big pully but on the left its firm and tight is this normal or somthing needs to be fixed

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. Did you ever replace the timing belt? You should do this after about 90.000km.

[@lloydmubika]

Can you do a quick video 📹 on how to change front park lights

[@pannonicmechanic]

Sorry for the late answer. I will do my best. Maybe it´s ready today. ;)

[@pannonicmechanic]

I hope it´s helpful for you. :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/jn22nXmtmquUidE

[@mahmutkocakcom5962]

👏👏👏

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you.

[@tebogosamuel1617]

How reliable is this engine??

[@pannonicmechanic]

I say it´s a very reliable engine. My first Accent had 377.000km when i crashed it. :( The only things i did on the engine were the hydraulic valve lifters, the valve sealings because of oil consumption and the oil sump because of rust. It was never necessary to replace the cylinderhead gasket, piston rings or any other big repair. I did oilchange every 10.000km and replaced the timing belt every 90.000km.

[@tebogosamuel1617]

@@pannonicmechanic Thanks. The reason I'm asking is that I have a car with similar engine(Accent) but it uses carburator and distributor. The car doesn't want to start. What could be the problem

[@pannonicmechanic]

First i would check if the car has fuel and ignition. Sure you could check the timing also. Is there a story behind that car?

[@abelminaki5327]

Can u help with my rxs 130

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. Is this a motorcycle?

[@97warlock]

why does the top timing mark, the blotched white area.......... why is it Not a simple straight line mark? instead its a 1/2" wide blotch. kinda vague for getting perfect timing

[@pannonicmechanic]

I can only say, the manufacturer did that decision. The white mark with paint can be from a Mechanic, there is a milled line mark on the pulley. With paint it´s easier to find.

[@SimEon-jt3sr]

You know that's pretty common, once you've actually got the light in it you'd see that it gets a strobe and it really will line up well looking thru the light if you were adjusting your distributor it really just shows up at the match mark

[@pannonicmechanic]

That´s a good idea, you can see the timing mark with a strobe. But you should do this, when your engine runs fine to find it, or to check after timing belt replacement if it´s still correct. I don´t know your car, but for mine i don´t need a strobe, because i can´t adjust the distributor. Do you have another type of ignition?

[@احمدالمسماري-خ5ج]

Is it your own car. Or are you a mechanic?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Yes it is my own car. My profession is mechanic, but i don´t work in a workshop any more.

[@kdeh21803]

Can you just replace the Timing belt and not the tensioner pulley's (I'm in a pinch financially)..

[@pannonicmechanic]

Sure, you can only replace the Timing Belt without the Tensioner Pulley. Unfortunately the risk and the costs are higher, when the Tensioner Pulley breaks later. When your engine is not a freerunner, you have a total damage after that and in the worst case you must buy another car. I looked in a webshop. The Timing belt costs 21,91 euro and the Timing Belt Kit included the Tensioner Pulley 33,05 euro. The difference is only about 11 euro. I would recommend you to replace the Timing Belt and the Tensioner Pulley. You could use the old V-Belts, if they are not in a bad condition. The Generator, Power Steering and the Aircondition are not so important. In the worst case your car stops only. Then you can replace the broken V-Belt and you are ready to go again. Important is, that you must keep an eye on your waterpump and replace that part immediately, if it starts to leak or makes noises. I hope this explanation was helpful for you. If you have more questions, feel free to ask.

[@kdeh21803]

@@pannonicmechanic Excuse my ignorance, I don't know what the value of a Euro is. I saw another video of this vehicle and the timing belt was completely broken and still ran fine after replacement, leading me to believe it was not an interference engine.

[@pannonicmechanic]

No problem. At this time the Euro and Dollar are almost the same. 11 euro are about 11,70 Dollars. At this car i don´t know, if the Engine is a freerunner or not. Therefore i recommend you do replace the Tensioner Pulley also. My father had an Opel Kadett 1.3 with a broken Timing Belt three times. The engine had never a damage after that. My first car was a Fiat Uno where the Tensioner Pulley was falling apart and the engine was also ok. I was working as Car Mechanic for almost ten years and we had a broken Timing Belt at a Hyundai Lantra and a Hyundai H100 Minibus. Both engines were total damage. You told me that you have not so much money, so you would like to do that job more cheap. I think it´s better to spend a few Dollars more for maintenance, than several hundred or thousand for repairing your engine or buying another car.

[@kdeh21803]

@@pannonicmechanic I'm getting it running for someone very economy depressed right now....

[@pannonicmechanic]

HR G I understand. I wish you good success at doing this job. Feel free to ask at any problem.

[@Atonement-]

my man, really hope u see this soon, I'm doing this job + H2O pump (what failed initially)... problem is, it's my mother in law's (or as i introduce her, simply "mud")... and if i don't get this right?? She'll be holding the power....we can't have that, understand? On her 2003 Accent 1.6L, the lower timing cover (the plastic POS that is probably going to crumble away for ANY person doing this job in 2024 & beyond) has manufacturer markings on the lower left side, close to where that protruding lip comes out.... one of the markings is "T".... Now, there's like a bundle of different "procedure manuals" that I've seen owners post snap shots of in Hyundai forums for instance... in one of those i reviewed (& ONLY in that particular one from I've seen thus far) it tells u that for the Crank timing alignment, that "T" on the lower plastic cover is your guide to use.... it's basically in the same relative position as the little "dot notch marking" that you reference, but on the left side of the crank..... there's also other markings on the left that also are in line with that "T".... like a notch with white paint on it for instance.... now, on the metal wheel that gets put on before the crank pulley (the wheel that the belt will connect to at the crank), there's a manufacturer's marking of an arrow on one of the pegs or whatever they are.... and IT WAS/IS pointing directly to the notch on the right side that u also reference here... I'm sitting here on day 2 now questioning what direction to go... the cover literally says T & is referenced somewheres as the TDC for crank position... what do u think.... if this is something I'd figure out by continuing?? well i will admit, i might not figure it out ... really though, I'm terrified to destroy it & be up the creek with "mudder".... can u direct me perhaps?? And also, is there any fail safe measure that could be done after everything is all buttoned up, to ENSURE TDC HAS BEEN ACCOMPLISHED??? I like true crime... but i never want to be part of it in real life if u know what i mean...lol, mud is somebody who makes u volunteer to loosen crank bolts without a battery just to escape. S.O.S.

[@pannonicmechanic]

Hi. I hope i´m not too late, i tried to answer you as fast as i could. The reason for the two marks is simple, but the the good news is, both are the same. That one on cover has the reason, when you want to check the timing of the engine "without" removing v-belts, engine mount bracket, etc. For this you must only remove the top cover of the timing belt and you see the marks of the camshaft and the crankshaft. Another reason can be, when you want to check the ignition with a strobe lamp. Otherwise this makes not much sense any more, because you can´t adjust it. The other marks on the crankshaft you see in my video, is when you definitely want to replace the timing belt and you removed all the parts. So you have the marks on the pulley and the engine and you can continue your job. On the camshaft there is a spring pen and on the crankshaft you have a parallel key, so it´s nearly impossible to mount them wrong. So if you are careful with these parts, it´s relatively safe to do this job. The biggest mistake you can make is, when the alignement of the timing marks is not correct and when you make a mistake by tensioning. Therefore please always turn the engine minimum two rotations after replacing the timing belt and check the marks and the tension again. When you do the job by this way, your mother in law will be satisfied. :) I hope i could help you a little bit. Please tell me if i can help you further.

[@Atonement-]

@@pannonicmechanic you're perfect my man, thanks for the quick response... let's just get one thing straight ya hear, you're wrong, i could sprinkle pixy dust on this vehicle, so it could fly around to points A & B in its own lane, and mudder in law will STILL exhibit behavior that causeth the Righteous to have thoughts of true crime. I usually won't complete something unless i feel i completely grasp what any teacher (KZbinrs that seems to have the understanding, local mechanics, inner circle people, etc)...& in doing this particular repair for the first time, I'm struggling to know why transferring current belt markings to new belt has any relevance whatsoever (just about all video/info site out there says to do so)....i saw 1 where a Hyundai dealership mechanic just "filming his routine without any audio really" doesn't mark anything, he just quickly swaps them out & does the 2 full cam rotations... what help does belt markings do besides create panic if they're a tooth off for whatever reason? Is it not safe to say that as long as you complete the manual crank rotations & align at the end, that you're fine?? And what happens if you do all that and they're not aligned? Can that happen (or does that mean u keep rotating until alignment happens top & bottom)... is there any event that might cause those 2 to not be in agreement at their "end points?"...... From my first time at this, I've also learned that it seems to be the tensioner causing not just the most problems for install, but the most causes for shop returns (usually within weeks too)... you mentioned this point in your reply.... if u don't mind, what is the best way to go about this again?? I just about stripped the spring bolt hole out (not because of your video)...i saw in another that is passed around as technician approved in Hyundai forums where they leave the long hole bolt out while doing the spring side... anyway, I'm back over here trying to button this up, but refuse to just slap that tensioner on not knowing if it's solid... the wife requested mudder to hang around longer, otherwise, it "might've" been some school glue & scotch tape to complete the job ... So, is this correct u think?? Install tensioner, both bolts, but leave both loose (if so, HOW loose & equally?? like should long hole be tight to help relieve some of the force of prying the spring to position?? Or in making long hole bolt tight, will that put unwanted force on spring bolt??).... then, u loosen long hole to push up the tensioner body, then tighten in its elevated state right?? then belt gets installed?? then long hole is loosened to lower the body in place for tension?? Then both tensioner bolts are torqued to roughly 19ft/lb's ?? then turn crank twice for timing alignment??? And finally, when removing crank bolt after everything seems right, will any of the movement from loosening it to install cover, harmonic balancer, etc., as well as then tightening it for torque, will that movement need corrected or adjusted as well??? is that then, why we have the different marking on the lower cover, to use as reference for doing another 2 rotations? i really appreciate your advice, sorry it's really wordy, i just have to think many if not most rookies at this come to similar questions.... Thanks again

[@pannonicmechanic]

@Atonement Thanks for your nice words. Oh man. We have a proverb for this: You can choose your friends, but not your relatives. But i´m sure that lady has positive sites too. She is the mother of a wonderful woman, who is your wife? :) I´m happy about your attitude to this job and i try to help you to understand. There are many ways to replace a timing belt, in my video i tried you to show the correct one. I don´t want to say, that i´m always right or whatever. But doing by this way you should be able to do it correct and to check the very important details, which are really important. If you don´t take care about these, you have a big engine failure and in the worst case you need another car. It´s important to line up the timing marks, because the pistons and the valves (crankshaft and camshaft) are then in the correct position. When the crankshaft mark lines up, the piston of the first cylinder is on the top dead center. When the camshaft lines up, the valves of the first cylinder are closed. Should something happen by replacing the timing belt, disassembling the whole engine, whatever. You can always turn the engine to the timing marks and the engine components are in the right position. That can be always a new start. These are the basics, how an internal combustion engine works. If you are wrong by only one tooth, the car needs more fuel, does not have accceleration, doesn´t start or the pistons hit the valves and damage them. Therefore these marks are so important. So you must line up the timing marks, loosen the timing belt, replace it with a new one, tighten the new belt, check the marks, do two rotations, check the marks again, and check the tension of the timing belt. These are the basics. When you install the new timing belt, you should put it on the tensioner pulley as last wheel. It must be the loosest point, otherwise the tensioner can´t move/do it´s job. I tried to show you the easiest way to replace the tensioner and assemble the spring again. That´s one of the most trickiest details, because you must press against the spring. If you remove the bolt from the long hole, it may be easier to put the spring in it´s position, but then you must press the whole tensioner and screw in the bolt. Normally that´s harder to do. If you let the bolts of the tensioner loose, it should be about a half or one rotation, not more. So that you can move the tensioner easy into both directions. All other steps you described were correct, please do it by this way. When you assembled all the parts together, you can do again two rotations to check the timing again and for this you can use the marks on the timing belt cover and on the v-belt pulley of the crankshaft. To be honest, i never did this beuase i had no problems after assembling after replacing the timing belt. I hope i could help you with these explanations and wish you good success by doing this job. Please keep me updated.

[@houshangazizzadeh3903]

Houshang

[@ribbyramone]

My car is nearly the same and I found your instruction brilliant and very informative! The only question I've got so far is when I removed the water pump, I've realised there was a mark that looks like a position mark I've got around camshaft for timing. Could that be critical somehow?

[@pannonicmechanic]

Thank you very much for your nice words. A mark on the wheel of the waterpump is not critical, because it does only it´s job: To pump water. Did you see a mark on the opposite side too?

[@ribbyramone]

@@pannonicmechanic No mark on the other side! That's exactly what I thought as there would be no difference at all which way I put it back. I also changed the oil at the time of the belt replacing process and found today some drops of oil sitting on the oil tank. Hopefully just didn't wipe it properly after the change as there weren't any ways for me to damage any seals or gaskets on the engine :D

[@pannonicmechanic]

@ribbyramone Interesting but however, on the waterpump it doesn´t matter. Sorry i forgot something. It doesn´t matter anyway, because on the Accent and a few other Hyundai models the waterpump is powered by the v-belt, not the timing belt. Which car do you have exactly? After oilchange i also had once a little problem. However, i didn´t tighten the drain plug well enough, so it was leaking after a few weeks. The solution was to tighten it a little bit more and the problem was solved. The most important thing is, to replace the sealing ring on the drain plug. I use copper sealing rings and not the massive type, there are some which are pressing by tightening the drain plug. Also tighten the oilfilter well, but only by hand. And after all, clean everything from oil, otherwise you think that you made a mistake. ;)

[@ribbyramone]

@@pannonicmechanic Mine is 2000, a bit older than yours but there's only 80000km, previous owner barely used the car. I suspect that the the belts I've just replaced came with the vehicle and were long due for replacement. Some had lots of cracks on them and looked really old, I'm glad I finally did it and you helped me a lot with your informative well-filmed and well-edited video! My water pump came with a paper gasket which I damaged during the installation so I had to reuse the original metal one. I know that it's not ideal, however there was no pitting or any damage, it should be ok I think. The reason of my oil leaks I believe is the washer that I dind't replace during the oil change. Looks like it's leaking out at a rate of 1-2 drops a day so no concern as I really don't want to drain the oil again just to replace the washer!

[@pannonicmechanic]

@ribbyramone I´m happy that your were successful and i could help you with my video. Because of the waterpump gasket, it´s really not ideal if you reuse an old gasket, but if it works, it´s ok. Please check from time to time, if it´s not leaking there. Did you add some silicone to the surfaces? It´s bad, if your probleme because of the oil leaks is the sealing ring/washer on the drain plug. You must decide now, what to do. The intervalls between two oilchanges are about 10.000-15.000 kilometers. Do you want to tolerate the oil leaks for this long time or do you want to replace the sealing ring? I know that it sucks, when you must drain the oil and refill it again. You need a clean pan, etc. I did that job once without draining the oil, but i don´t want to recommend you. If you make a mistake, you drain the oil unwillingly.