How To Replace Knock Sensors P0325/P0330 Toyota Highlander 3.0 V6 1MZ-FE - Camry Sienna Lexus RX300

Check engine light with trouble codes P0325 and P0330 means there is a likely issue with the knock sensors and/or their harness. This video shows how to replace these three items by removing the lower intake. How to remove the upper intake is shown in a separate video. This procedure is common for Toyota Highlander, Camry, Sienna, Avalon, Lexus is300, RX300.
The Factory Service Manual suggested torque for the sensors is 29 ft.lbs, which is not a high level. However, some after-market i.e. non OE sensors and most fake sensors will break apart well below this torque level.
This is a link to the video for removing the intake manifold:
• How To Remove The Inta...

[@LestonDr]

Thank you, son has a 1MZ-FE in a camry... wondered where those suckers were... looks like a good time to replace the valve cover gaskets as well. Great video, to the point. No story time... You ROCK Frank.

[@Merryfrankster_]

Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@o0phuoctai0o]

Nice work, my #1 coil failed, I replace it without removing intake assembly, let’s hope 3, 5 does not failed any time soon :).

[@Randomee]

restoring a toyota harrier (our version of the lexus rx330) and this is quite helpful!

[@Merryfrankster_]

Thanks for watching.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

Just got a 330 code. Looking up how to do the job. What a pain in the but job! I actually already have the gasket set cause I was going to replace my valve cover gaskets. Haven't got to the job yet but glad I didn't do it since I was going to pull the upper intake anyway to get to the valve covers. If it wasn't just a random code and really needs to be replaced I will just do it all at the same time.

[@Merryfrankster_]

Yes if you have this code, the transmission will not shift into overdrive.

[@jimmypage4162]

Thorough and to the point thank you sir well produced. 👍

[@Merryfrankster_]

Than you for watching and for commenting.

[@gellitucker5582]

Thanks for this video, I'm going to be doing this replacement hopefully asap and also gonna do the coolant hose and a couple other things while I'm there. I'm going to TRY to do as much as I can without the help of my boyfriend because I need to be able to confidently work on my own car lol

[@Merryfrankster_]

One tip I did not include in this video is use the block drain to drain coolant from the block. The block drain is located underneath the front exhaust header.

[@gellitucker5582]

@@Merryfrankster_ thank you (: will do!

[@robertojaviertejadamartine7053]

Hello Frank thanks for making this helpful video, just had a P0330 on my 2001 Toyota Highlander, 3.0 v6 1MZ-FE, please need help on the part reference for the sensors you installed as seems i bought a pair of new in box knock off toyota denso sensors on ebay and my problem persist with check engine light on with p0330 code. I noticed that the genuine taken off denso sensor is marked on the body with the numbers 71N, 133 and a symbol and the ones i got toyota box denso branded do not have any reference on the body, what does 71N means and do i need to them with that referencee ?

[@Merryfrankster_]

I don't know about the markings on the sensors but I want to mention that I always replace the sensor harness at the same time as the sensors because it's just too difficult to diagnose and the porblem could very well be in the harness.

[@joshuajackson164]

Great video! I had an overdrive issue with my 3.0 2001 Toyota highlander with a 140k mikes not shifting into 3rg gear engine light will come on and the code read P0330 had knock sensor and harness change and 15 days later same thing was happening, now when I erase code or take battery cable off car drives just fine for a few days.

[@Merryfrankster_]

We had one in here where we had to replace the entire engine harness to eliminate the P0325 P0330. I don't mean the little knock sensor harness. I mean the complete engine harness.

[@joshuajackson164]

thank you for replying back so soon. I will try that.@@Merryfrankster_

[@RickTroutner]

Just did this exact repair on a 99 ES300. Not because the knock sensors went but because the water bypass hose burst. Replaced the knock sensors with the same NTK ones. Using the 25% off code at advanced auto got each one for $150 and then got $30 back in speed perks bucks which I was able to use on throttle body cleaner and silicone gasket maker to shore up the water jackets which has pitting.

[@Merryfrankster_]

Yup this is one of those "and while you are there... " kind of jobs.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

Price may have changed since a year ago but the same sensors today are like $111 on Rock Auto!

[@RickTroutner]

@@natevanlandingham1945 of course they are 🤦‍♂️😅

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@RickTroutner I just got the 330 code. Was looking where they were located. I have pulled the upper intake to do plugs. But I hope I can just clear my codes and get some time out of it. I can do the job it's just one of those things. While I'm there I will do both, the harness and hose. Plus the hours of time I'd rather just not do it right now.

[@RickTroutner]

@@natevanlandingham1945 yea the job started with just a busted $20 hose for me. Turned into a near $500 job in just parts with the sensors, harness, gaskets and the fuel injector seals. I did a video on all of the parts here kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKSxd5WEpr-Nlas

[@jamesmay54]

Thanks for the very useful video. It is very useful. How much costs of the labor and the parts if done by a repair shop in US for 2001 Sienna? Thanks.

[@Merryfrankster_]

For the Sienna it takes a little bit longer because the windshield cowl must be removed. There are a few things that should be done "while you're there" like the rear valve cover and the spark plugs. There are costs for the intake gaskets and for coolant as well as the knock sensors and the snesor harness. My guess would be $900.

[@alexyon_etc]

The video to remove to upper intake pls add link of the video. Found it: How To Remove The Intake Manifold - Toyota Highlander 3.0-liter V6 1MZ-FE 2001 2002 2003

[@Merryfrankster_]

Thank you for watching and for commenting.

[@zippySquirrelface]

Thanks for the video! Did this fix the CEL? Ill start stock piling parts soon. While the intake is off is that a good time to do the valve cover gasket? Mine is leaking like a sieve.

[@Merryfrankster_]

Yes, I have done this repair on several cars, and it does fix the CEL for knock sensor, but be sure to replace both knock sensors AND the knock sensor harness. And, absolutely, this is the best time to do the rear valve cover, whether it needs it or not, and on older cars I also do the spark plugs and the ignition coils at the same time.

[@zippySquirrelface]

@@Merryfrankster_ thanks for the reply! I am a bit skeptical about both knock sensors going out at the same time, and at $100 a pop I am going to take a chance on doing just the harness first and see if that fixes the issue. If not I'll order them and do the job twice... One more question, did you have to bleed the coolant system after replacing the bypass hose?

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@zippySquirrelface Did not have to bleed. Filled it, ran it up to temp, then added a little bit of coolant the next day, and it was fine. YMMV.

[@neuby71]

I changed his knock sensors with the aftermarket one now I’m getting oxygen P0155&po135, I don’t remember touching disturbing any wires what do you think I could be the problem

[@Merryfrankster_]

These are both heater codes. Most likely either the sensors are not connected securely, or the heater elements in the sensors are faulty,

[@markvermeulen1372]

@@Merryfrankster_ Doubtful. The garbage aftermarket components could be culprit.

[@brianlabrie4218]

I did the exact same job and now have a no spark no start. Any ideas? Seems to be some sort of security issue. Very confused on this

[@Merryfrankster_]

Check fuses,

[@natevanlandingham1945]

Did this repair. Used NTK sensors from Rock Auto and a standard Motor Harness because it was the best I could get from them and online the Toyota harness said NLA. Well after 175 miles the CEL can back on. Cleared it and that lasted a day and about 50 miles. Cleared it again and it lasted 3 miles. I guess I will get the Toyota harness after I do some testing and such. I hate to keep doing this job and throwing money at it. May just do the hack even??

[@Merryfrankster_]

I recently had a similar problem with a aftermarket knock sensor harness. After replacing both sensors and the harness, I got P0325 again. So I went in and swapped the sensors. Came back P0325 again. Bought another harness, now it's gone. .

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@Merryfrankster_ i called Toyota, they said yes they can get it. No idea why the online Toyota site said the harness was NLA!! Going to order the harness and swap it. I was reading somewhere that it's just a voltage out of range if it doesn't instantly come back on. If the light comes on after you turn it off and crank it up it's either a bad sensor or wire broken. Say it's just an out of range issue if it stays off for some period of time. Just weird I rode for like 7 days and 175 miles or so before it came on the first time.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@Merryfrankster_ Here is another question, did you replace the lower intake gaskets or reuse them when you went back into it?

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@natevanlandingham1945 On the first go I replaced the gasket. When I went back in, I re-used it. The torque for the bolts on the lower intake is very low - only 11ft.lbs. If you don't overtorque them, the gasket should be ok. I did pressure test the system to make sure afterward.

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@natevanlandingham1945 Also I drained coolant using the block coolant drain on the front. I put a small hose on it and collected the coolant. This avoided making a big mess.

[@alexyon_etc]

Like your video but no way I can find first part you mention I mean to remove to upper intake pls add link of the video

[@Merryfrankster_]

THEIR A LOTTA PART MENTION IN VIDEO WHICHY WANTY BRA?????

[@CP-pb3pj]

Great video! Is it ok to use non OEM knock sensors on these 3.0 Toyota engines? Just got this code PO330 on my Lexus ES.

[@Merryfrankster_]

I use the NTK brand knock sensors. Still pricey but less than OEM and good reputation for quality.

[@CP-pb3pj]

@@Merryfrankster_ Thank you.! Good work.👍

[@xXAsunaxKiritoXx]

So, i had a p0330 and replaced both sensors and harness and cleared codes. The sensors were from napa auto parts and were not cheap either, like dealership expensive, 250 a piece and my car now throws p0330 and p0325. Under certain conditions the cel completely disappear and reappear minutes later but usuall is always on. Any idea on what the issue is?

[@Merryfrankster_]

OMG first of all I'm sorry that you overspent on your sensors. Quality NTK sensors are available for much less from Rockauto. It sounds like you have a wiring problem. Check to make sure that the sensor harness is clipped securely into the main harness. A loose connction could cause the CEL to come and go. Generally, I suggest that you replace the sensor harness at the same time you replace the sensors.

[@xXAsunaxKiritoXx]

@@Merryfrankster_ I did, new sensors and harness.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

Napa is overpriced on many things!! When the ball joints on my Sequoia needed to be done I priced Napa parts . They cost more than the Toyota dealer!! NO WAY theirs are better than Toyota! They lasted 250k miles!

[@russelmussle7866]

How many miles untill the knock sensors need to be replaced?

[@Merryfrankster_]

In general we find 175,000 to 200,000 miles there is a good chance either knock sensors or knock sensor harness causes the P0325/P0330. This is very common.

[@stevebrown2965]

Dude sounds like Beavis and Butthead's school teacher

[@Merryfrankster_]

You sound like a horse's ass.

[@edbouhl3100]

By the time that harness and sensors are ready for a change it must have pretty high mileage. Is it worth going in (possibly breaking more aged components on the way or having another high labor job from a unrelated part in the near future) or is it time to get a new vehicle?

[@Merryfrankster_]

There really are not that many components in the valley between the two banks. Replace the kock sensors, their harness, the gaskets, and the bypass water hose, and you should not have to go back in there for a very long time. While you have the plenum off, replace the rear spark plugs, the rear ignition coils, and the rear spark plugs, and you should not have to go under that plenum again for a very long time. Aside from that, everything else you can reach without touching the plenum or the intake. Whether to keep the vehicle should depend on its overall condition not just a few components under the plenum and intake.

[@edbouhl3100]

@@Merryfrankster_ Thanks for the quick reply! I’ve since checked and it looks like the cost of the repair would be in the $2000+ range while the trade in value is about $500-$1500. So I’m starting to look at replacement options.

[@zippySquirrelface]

@@edbouhl3100 it's funny that your screen name is Diy Guy but you are talking about having someone do the repairs for you, after watching a video on how to do it yourself. :D

[@edbouhl3100]

@@zippySquirrelface Gotta know your limitations! Plus I’m much better equipped (and motivated) to work on my house than my vehicle.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@edbouhl3100 He was referring to doing it yourself. The parts for just the knock sensors if useing aftermarket sensors and felpro gasket set is less than $100. Like he said mas as well do rear plugs since that's how you get to them and I'd do valve covers as the ones on it probably leak and your there at this point so add another $75 being generous for parts and the rest is labor. Unless your in like LA or NYC I dont see the labor costing that much. I do my own work and first time I pulled just upper intake I had a few hours max. A pro should do it in a fraction of that time. Heck I'd do this job all day long for $1000! Hahaha

[@TreenutRS]

Jesus christ I just did this job it took me 10 hours and I have the exact same code as before. Might just try to do the hack to avoid doing this all over.

[@Merryfrankster_]

I feel your pain. If you are still getting the code, it could be an issue in the harness, or the ECU.

[@Slaphappy-_-]

I’m done with mine!! I can’t get it!! I’m so sick of being trapped by mechanics. I’ve done this 3 times already takes about 3 hours with a break. Absolute junk aftermarket parts.

[@fmo8177]

How much does the New engine harness cost? Thx

[@Merryfrankster_]

There is no more new. You must look for used from salvage. They are rare, and cost is somewhere in $500 ballpark. Be sure to match the exact part number for your harness. There are many variations by year and type.

[@DPLS77]

Hey nice vid man. I have a '01 Toyota Camry V6 1MZFE with 137k miles and I got a p0330 knock sensor code. Took it to the shop and got the sensors, wire harness, gaskets, and coolant pipe replaced with OEM Toyota parts (the 2 sensors and wire harness). Everything was fine on the way back home until the check engine light came back on giving me the same exact p0330 code. Any idea why this issue persists? I don't know much about cars apart from basics. Did a bit of digging around and heard somebody had the same issue at 216k miles. "the engine you may have carbon build up on the intake valves which can cause the fuel to spatter when it hits the face of the valves an cause detonation and make the knock sensors off" My car has 137k miles, do you think this might be the reason, dirty valves? Any other reasons why I keep getting the p0330 code? Thanks.

[@Merryfrankster_]

These codes have nothing to do with detonation/knock in the engine. That is absolute nonsense and totally ignorant. The codes indicate an electrical fault in the sensor, the harness, or the ECU. There is a fix that involves rewiring the ecu connector - I have not tried this one but it is said to work. Another possibility is to replace the entire harness - which I have done, and it works.

[@DPLS77]

@@Merryfrankster_ I see. Yeah I've read online it could be the harness, but considering the harness and the two sensors are OEM I seriously doubt it's that. I am taking it back to the shop Monday to get it checked out. This morning I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery terminal and draining the capacitors. It worked for the first 1.5miles, but when I revved the car to 4k RPM it immediately turned the check engine light back on and gave me the same p0330 code. Took it to my local auto parts store to get an OBD2 Scan, apart from the p0330 code I did notice the O2, CAT, and EVA were flashing red where it says I/M Monitor Status. The engine doesn't knock, it idles fine and there isn't any noticeable reduction in driveability. Maybe a bad O2 sensor near the CAT?

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@DPLS77 I mean THE ENTIRE ENGINE HARNESS.

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@DPLS77 This is the link to the ECU wiring fix. www.toyotanation.com/threads/p0330-bypass.1666579/

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@DPLS77 If your car is throwing other codes, these are not related to the P0330.

[@kaibaumgartner7721]

it looks like someone has already done the knock sensors before, do you think they failed because of being aftermarket?

[@Merryfrankster_]

It could be the harness was no good. Always replace the harness.

[@kaibaumgartner7721]

@@Merryfrankster_ yeah i watched another video and a guy JUST did the harness and lucked out

[@edbouhl3100]

@@kaibaumgartner7721 That would be so painful to have to disassemble it again!

[@kaibaumgartner7721]

I ended up swapping an entirely new 1MZ engine, well not new but well maintained engine from out wrecked 2003 Sienna, that had timing belt/water pump/valve cover gaskets, radiator, alternator, starter, spark plugs all done in the last 20k miles. Ended up saving more that way even though it was a lot of time, about 10 hrs to swap the engine.

[@Skidmark0606]

I only have a P0330 code. Not P0325. Should I still replace both sensors, even if I’m only getting one code.

[@Merryfrankster_]

If you don't mind doing the entire job all over again when the second sensor fails, then just replace one, and plan on replacing the second one at a later date, as needed.

[@Skidmark0606]

@@Merryfrankster_ fair point. Greatly appreciate it. Might as well do both while I’m in there.

[@justnerp]

Which bank is which? Only my bank 1 sensor is bad!

[@Merryfrankster_]

Bank 1 is close to the firewall. Bank 2 is close to the radator.

[@angeltavarez7555]

Not torquing??????

[@Merryfrankster_]

Complete sentences?????

[@lucasmills1246]

I love my Highlander, but when I go to get my next Toyota I think I'm definitely gonna get a tundra, Sequoia or something else with a 1uz. Less headache to work on when things go wrong. This is a great engine, their engineers just designed it in a way that I hate working on it

[@Merryfrankster_]

1GR Tacoma is not bad either.

[@lucasmills1246]

I may take your advice on that. Just finally got this done, after $250 in parts from my local dealership and $500 in labor from my mechanic I'm driving again😢 I saw enough people crying about the aftermarket ones being bad in the comments so I took an L and bought the Denso/Toyota parts but I at least have peace of mind

[@Slaphappy-_-]

I’m not getting it!!! Wtf!!! I’m so pissed and to be trapped by mechanics and parts . I can’t get another hundred thousand miles out of a good motor and trans? Help anyone? Done this three times. Still throwing the codes.

[@Merryfrankster_]

I had one like that. Replaced the entire harness. Fixed it.

[@Slaphappy-_-]

@@Merryfrankster_ the overall wire harness? I keep buying the knock harness? Or go past that? Lol I’m sorry this car has never been mistreated and everything kept up and changed.

[@Merryfrankster_]

@@Slaphappy-_- THE ENTIRE ENGINE HARNESS

[@Slaphappy-_-]

@@Merryfrankster_ thank you! Definitely a made to fail part! Everyone seams to be at 150k to 180k miles it’s disgusting! Thank you! Really!