How to replace Mazda 3 motor mount (2004-2013)

[@GuyPasquini]

Not being a Auto Mechanic, but a tech on other machines, I was wondering how to properly use the jack to support the engine. you showing the Wood resolved my concern. Great job! 👍

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Glad I was able to help you out! Thanks for watching!

[@GMoney-B]

Having Mazda do this for $420. Didn't know what was wrong with it or how to do it. Looks super simple but oh well. Saves me some time at very least. I'm sure i could do it right but it does give me a small bit of concern getting the engine in the perfect alignment and height while tightening down the new mount bolts for the new mount.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

That’s insane what they charge. Ya it seems daunting but it’s really not if you’re not at the right alignment everything won’t line up. It’s a simple job overall I hope you do get to try it in the future I believe in you! If I can do it you can do it. Thanks for watching!

[@GMoney-B]

@ thank you! I appreciate your encouragement! :) yeah, I have no doubt I could do it now. I do brakes, rotors, coolant and brake flushes, oil changes of course, coolant hose replacements, will be doing spark plugs because changing those for $300 at the dealer is bleeping insane. Replaced my driver side cv and axle seal. I’ve learned what I have needed to. Only reason I am having dealer do motor mounts is because I had serious vibration going on. They said due to passenger side cv being “el done’o” and final gears in transmission having a ton of play and wear. Probably from cv axles not being replaced when boots failed a couple years ago from rats. If I had known what the problem was prior to taking it in, i could have looked up the procedure but since I had it in and limited experience I just wanted to get it done. I use my car for work and It’s financially critical I get it done asap. Already lost a ton of money already working on it for my cv axle and learning how to do that. Also because they already got it in there and would save me a ton of time. I really had to learn from my mistakes on this one. I would have done all this myself. Especially after this morning getting news that the mechanic broke my passenger side knuckle trying to get the cv out. Now it’s going to be $633 more to get that replaced. I wasn’t thinking either and said to go ahead instead of saying that I shouldn’t pay for it since I didn’t break it but I also kinda got an impression that they would not have covered it even if I tried to say they should. I have no idea why on earth the guy was working on the knuckle in a way that would break it. I got a claw tool that hooks on the wheel hub to press in the cv drivers side axle that I replaced. I didn’t break the knuckle. I think he might have done the method of taking off the knuckle from the strut to get the axle out. All I did was pry off the control arm from the knuckle with a large control arm pry tool. So I’m here thinking later on today, wtf. If they add anything else I’m going to say they need to cover it. Some hard lessons I’m learning. I always have said to myself and others that I don’t trust really anyone with my car other than the dealer or learning how to do something myself. Horrible experiences in my family with small auto shops and pep boys specifically. As soon as I can I am going to buy either a motorcycle or small ev as a backup car. Then I’d be able to work on my cars longer and not be out of work with rental car costs. Don’t have enough money to buy a new car but honestly my 14’ Mazda 3 hatchback 2.5l is like brand new other than these drivetrain issues. All the stuff I’ve done in replacements is all originating from rats and inexperience couple years back at the time, of knowing how to fix and what needs to be fixed.

[@jeffreygonzalez9019]

Is there a way to easily diagnose which mount has gone bad aside from cracks or wear? My 2010 3i vibrates extremely loud but only when in drive and low speeds

[@JunkyardJunkie]

The best thing to do is power break the vehicle (give it throttle while holding the brakes.) have a camera pointing at each mount and then watch the footage see if there’s excessive movement. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@jeffreygonzalez9019]

@@JunkyardJunkieabsolutely right , was the exact same as your video. Thank you!

[@theaussie7160]

Could this affect the gear box drive shaft to cv and make gearbox clunk

[@JunkyardJunkie]

You will hear a clunk from this if it’s bad. But, it shouldn’t be coming from the gearbox. Make sure that’s where the clunks coming from. Because in a engine bay it may be echoing and sounding like it’s there but it’s not. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@theaussie7160]

Thanks Mate 👍 just subscribed @@JunkyardJunkie

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Thanks broski!

[@GMoney-B]

I didn't change my cv's till they were really bad out of not having the money. Recently replaced the drivers side cv myself and was like brand new for half a day and then started having vibration again and eventually thudding as something would revolve around on the shaft, or final gears in the transmission. Took it into mazda and they said the motor mount was shot, the passenger cv was "el dunno" and that the drivers cv I replaced most likely is still having "play" and a wobble because the final gears in the transmission are not good but still driveable. I will have to replace my transmission soon. Always had a little tiny bit of hard shifting sometimes though so it may have been on its way out anyway. I also got a metal rubbing scraping noise at low speed when accelerating. Don't know if thats from the passenger cv or the final gears. Hopefully they will be don soo with the repairs. If they don't have an eta on the oem passenger side axle (it was on back order till possibly january/february with no eta)I will just see if I can have them cancel the axle replacement and replace the passenger side myself as well, only having them do the motor mount. $900 to replace the passenger side with parts and labor. Yikes. If its not oem theres no point to have them do it imo when an autozone axle is $85, lol.

[@goddessaj420]

How do you replace the tea engine mount on a 2012 Mazda 3 I found the one by the coolant and I know the transmission mount under the battery tray but I can’t find a video that shows me how to change the 3rd one?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

I think you’re talking about the torque mount in the back? If so this is it How to replace Mazda 3 torque mount kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2WcXpifbt97fLs . Good luck. Thanks for watching!

[@MrMeasureTwice]

Nicely done, explained perfectly, easy to understand. Much appreciated!!

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Thanks! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@imperium1011]

Did you put the jack and the wood right under the engine? Isn’t it bad to jack up the car from the engine?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Yes, I put the block of wood in between the jack and engine. You should never jack an engine up by the jack alone. Using a block of wood will help prevent any damage. So, it is safe and a common practice to use a jack and wood to keep the engine where it’s at or raise and lower it slightly. (Don’t ever jack the car up by the engine) Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!

[@imperium1011]

@@JunkyardJunkiethanks for the answer! Also the torque specs you mentioned have a pretty big range. What did you end up torquing the top and sides bolts to?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

I went to 70 ft lbs on top ons and I went to 57 ft lbs on the bottom ones.

[@anthonyhiscox]

On the off chance that someone new is reading this and doesn't quite catch those parenthesis. NEVER JACK UP THE CAR BY THE ENGINE/OIL PAN. All JunkyardJunkie is doing here is using the jack to jack up the engine itself, using the wood block to distribute the pressure. You'll seriously damage your oil pan (and potentially more) by attempting to jack up the car using the engine. There is a cross brace just behind the engine that you can use to jack up from the front, or it from the side if your jack isn't long / big enough.

[@anamarin6659]

Thank you I think I might have to do that with my son's car because of the simple fact that it started vibrating somewhere when he turns on the AC and when he's idle on the light

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Yup it’s most likely a motor or transmission mount then. You can also watch you mounts if you power brake the engine. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!

[@kayemigz6121]

The 2010-2013 mazda 3s are pretty loud at idle. I just swapped my pmm for the 2nd time. First mount exploded, 2nd mount was getting flimsy (caused vibration at idle) good thing this job is easy

[@azurretown]

Is it this easy for all the motor mounts.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Pretty much. It’s usually super easy for side mounts. Now front motor mounts can be more of a pain. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching

[@lenharris6834]

should this fit a mazda 5 2012 premacy?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

I’m not sure. But when looking at the part it should show what all it’s compatible with. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@butWhyDad]

Is it OEM mount how are the aftermarket ones?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

It’s OEM spec these are aftermarket. Aftermarket parts are usually just as good as OEM. So, you’ll be fine getting aftermarket. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@ulisesdiaz3725]

@@JunkyardJunkiewhere did you buy the part?

[@Sadegh_Ashraafi]

Perfect , good job bro

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Thanks! Glad good I could help! Thanks for watching!

[@handos47]

Thank you for the great video, well explained.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!

[@truckercole9661]

Thankyou good sir.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@josearvizu5705]

Where did you bought that part?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Hey I bought this from advance but you can just as easily pick it up from Amazon. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@chornii_boumer7324]

Thank you for the video

[@ulisesdiaz3725]

@@chornii_boumer7324did you find it ?

[@originalgibbs1584]

Nice video mate , where did you jack the engine from ?

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Thanks! Take a block of wood (if you don’t you’ll crush your pan). Then I jacked it up from the oil pan. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@augustinsrc]

@@JunkyardJunkieoh I didn’t realize the pan was that strong. Nice

[@Robertsmith2100]

Helpful video. Thanks. You need to remove the splash plate under the engine before jacking it up. That requires you to get under the car.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

That’s true this car didn’t have it on. Thanks for watching!

[@jdlives8992]

Yes sir. If your that deep Change the belts too. Might as well. They ant but 35 bucks. All right there

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Very true , great time to go ahead and change them. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@goatmindshine2392]

Good work

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Thanks! Thanks for watching!

[@nedcramdon1306]

Wish you could have shown what to listen for. Good video though.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Ya sorry about that, if when you shift into or out of gear you feel a clunk from the engine area then that’s a good sign. Also have some one shift gears as you watch the engine, if you see it excessively moving or you see cracks in the mount itself, these are easy signs that it’s time to change it. Hope this helps thanks for watching!

[@Bam590]

❤👍

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@PatrioticAmerican-d6h]

Okay now show us how you put the mount in the beacket instead of cutting to it being assembled already.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

……. I literally show you installing it every step……

[@PatrioticAmerican-d6h]

@@JunkyardJunkie The silver bracket and the rubber inside are two seperate parts. That's what I need help installing. The rubber mount has a ruberized flap that wraps around the metal bracket that holds it. Hammmering it pops the mount and makes it leak.

[@PatrioticAmerican-d6h]

I added a video and short to show you

[@JunkyardJunkie]

I’ll check it out in just a minute.

[@JunkyardJunkie]

Ok so I see what your meaning in your video but I order it as a whole assembly. Here’s one like I ordered a.co/d/aPn0PFh